HOMEBREW Digest #2825 Wed 16 September 1998

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  1st brew in 2 years - a little help please ("S. Jackson")
  Re: Alt yeast (Scott Murman)
  More on Alts (Fred Waltman)
  Re: All grain Brewing, first timer. ( Bob Fesmire ) (Jim Graham)
  Lagering in caves ("C Perilloux")
  Hop rhizomes (Australia) ("C Perilloux")
  Re: Things to do in Denver... (The Brews Traveler)
  Cave Temperatures (Spencer Tomb)
  Maine Again (JGORMAN)
  Caves and temps ("Jim Busch")
  Re: lagering in caves (Jeff Renner)
  love song of n. carolina beer bar (Vachom)
  Mash enzymes/high mash temp/orange light/Weizen/TSP in NY ("George De Piro")
  Sparge water temp. (Jack Schmidling)
  Alt recipe from Dusseldorf (Jeremy Price)
  on fresh versus dry hops (Peter.Perez)
  Re: Priming with dextrose (Joe Rolfe)
  Re: Sparge water temp. ("Tkach, Christopher")
  Sludge Starter (Badger Roullett)
  sticke (Peter.Perez)
  Alt Yeast Data Point ("Tomusiak, Mark")
  corking homemade bottles (ALAN KEITH MEEKER)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 22:26:02 -0400 From: "S. Jackson" <sjackson at easley.net> Subject: 1st brew in 2 years - a little help please Well after a two year hiatus I dusted off the equipment and brewed 10 gal's of pale ale last weekend. Its not like riding a bike! Somethings that (I think) were intuitutive seemed all too foreign. Anyway I racked off to a secondary and the beer while tasty was VERY bitter. Now I made lots of mistakes (while showing my son and my new girlfriend how to brew.) I never checked the mash pH! And since I have the softest water in the world {Ca 1.5, Mg 0.6, Na5.3, and hardness is 6.0} I used Ken Schwartz's Brewater program - Thanks Ken - and have used it sucessfully in the past but thought the amounts were a bit excessive this time. No old records to compare - the ex-wife threw out all that "damn brewing stuff". So to 10 gal I added 17.2 gm of epson salt, 4.2gm of baking soda, 1.8 gm of NaCl and 40.89 gm of CaSO4. I did not have the 11.4 gm of CaCO3 called for. Now comments on the salt additions please. Also the hops were old - but frozen in jars with co2 purge. The grain was also old but tasted Ok. if not a little stale. Also, other brewing stuff that went out causes me to be in need of a few replacement corny kegs. Could someone please forward a current of good price corny kegs - if such a thing still exists. Thanks Steve Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 23:04:19 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott Murman <smurman at best.com> Subject: Re: Alt yeast Jermey asks Re: Widmer Hefeweizen/Zum Uerige yeast. > > Does anyone have any experience wrt ferment temp for this yeast for an > alt? I fermented mine at 65F and then aged at 50F. Had no problems at all. As I mentioned in my first post, this is a strong yeast (quickly becoming one of my favorites), and throws a great kreusen head. Just to offer a counterpoint to Al K's advice on using nearly 100% Munich malt in an Alt grist, I would suggest keeping the grist at around 20-30% Munich and trying a single decoction. Dare to be Alt you can be. SM Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 00:56:58 -0700 (PDT) From: Fred Waltman <waltman at netcom.com> Subject: More on Alts George and Jeremy ask some questions about Duesseldorfer Alts: In my trips I have only once managed to get "behind the scenes" and this was at zum Schluessel -- which is a bit "tamer" than zum Uerige. The hop room had only whole Spalt hops. They fermented in open, rectangular fermenters. It was hard to judge the temp, but I would guess high fifties, maybe 60 def F. The yeast had a massive, rocky head, but I've gotten that from both 1007 and 1338 so that is no help. The cold room was much cooler, I'd say 40-ish, but it could have been colder -- it was summertime. As for attenuation -- I too disagree with AlK -- I thought they were fairly well attenuated for how much malty flavor they had, esp. Uerige. My limited conversation with one of their brewers led me to beleive they decocted (though I wouldn't trust my German at all). It may come down to expectations -- I expected a heavier beer based on the homebrewed and microbrewed examples I had had before. In order to get some more data (assuming in October I bring back my usual quota) I will contribute a bottle of Uerige if somebody wants to do some tests. I do agree with AlK on the passion of altbier. Drinking that first zum Uerige was the closest to a "beer epiphany" I have ever come. It was so far off my expectations (and so much *better*) that I am sure my jaw literally dropped. Fred Waltman Marina del Rey, CA (Los Angeles Area) fred at brewsupply.com *or* waltman at netcom.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 03:54:50 -0500 From: Jim Graham <jim at n5ial.gnt.com> Subject: Re: All grain Brewing, first timer. ( Bob Fesmire ) In HBD #2824, From: DGofus at aol.com writes: > I am concerned though on converting my extract recipes to all grain. For a while, frankly, I wouldn't try (and you may decide that you don't want to, but that's another story). I'd start with some simple recipes (pale ale, etc.) with 2 row and maybe one or two specialty grains. At first, you really need to A) get some practice w/ sparging (don't forget to Vorlauf!!!), so you can know what your %yield will typically be B) get familiar with what each of the various specialty grains will do for your beer. I converted from extract to all-grain about 10 months ago, so the need for the above is still fresh in my memory.... :-) > Also, I will need a good source for my grain. I have been told that $ > wise, it would be best to by bulk grain. And this is the main reason for my reply.... If you have one, get in touch with your local homebrew club and any local brewmasters you can find (they will almost certainly be in the local homebrew club...and may even know about one that you don't). This has a number of benefits, but the specific benefit that applies to your question above is buying grain..... One of the local brewers is the Treasurer for our homebrew club (the Homebrewers Underground, or HBUs[1]). He orders extra grain and pays his boss for it from the club's money. We, in turn, buy it from the club. Cost: a 50 pound bag of pre-cracked Briess 2 row for $22. Some specialty malts cost more than $22 (e.g., $25) for a 50 pound bag, but still.... If you can find something like that, you'll be glad you did (for many reasons---find a homebrew club and you'll find lots of professional brewers, advanced all-grain brewers, BJCP judges, etc.,[2] to learn >from all the time ... it's well worth it). Later, --jim [1] http://www.gnt.net/~n5ial/hbu/ ... I'm the HBUs webmaster, btw.... [2] Also remember the help you can get from other folks with things like making your equipment (e.g., if I'd bought a counterflow chiller, I would have spent a lot of $$$...instead, with the help of one of the brewers in the club, I made one for about $10 ...... or then there's the Carbonator cap I was going to buy for $15...but instead was taught how to make four of them for about $5). - -- 73 DE N5IAL (/4) MiSTie #49997 < Running Linux 2.0.21 > jim at n5ial.gnt.net || j.graham at ieee.org ICBM / Hurricane: 30.39735N 86.60439W === Do not look into waveguide with remaining eye === Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 19:33:18 +1000 From: "C Perilloux" <peril at bigpond.com> Subject: Lagering in caves Jim Booth wonders about lagering in caves with ice. This was indeed the case in Bavaria, from what I read while I lived there. Unfortunately, the exact source of the info is in a box, in storage, at the other end of the world, so I only have a few details from memory. In Munich, the lagering "caves" were constructed so that slabs of ice could be laid around (and above, if memory serves me right) the lagering beer. Wood was used for support, and straw for insulation, and this was used to extend the cold storage time for the beer. While I'm not sure if they got the temps down near freezing as we prefer these days, it was certainly low enough to act as some sort of refrigeration and provide cold beer into the (admittedly short) Bavarian summer. The ice, by the way, came from the upper reaches of the Isar river where it begins in the Alps, south of Munich. A simple matter to chop it out and float it down on rafts. It all sounds pretty tedious and labor intensive, and the Munich breweries were among the first to get into industrial refrigeration when it was first being developed. As for ice caves themselves, there are several in the Alps, but they are at impractical altitudes for lagering. Just bringing ice down to the city was enough work; forget hauling the beer UP and then bringing it down again! Calvin Perilloux Turrella (where there are NO ice caves, ever), Australia Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 21:47:28 +1000 From: "C Perilloux" <peril at bigpond.com> Subject: Hop rhizomes (Australia) David Ashwell asks recently about getting hop rhizomes, apparently shipped to him in Australia. Give a call to AQIS, David! (That's the Aussie Quarantine people, who are sending one of my friend's cats to purgatory/isolation for a while before it's allowed to roam these shores and grow fat on a diet of native animals). You'd be hard pressed to get hop rhizomes approved by Customs. I'd guess that they are DEFINITELY forbidden for you, as a regular guy, to import, as are most other plant cuttings or even seeds. Perhaps if you had a research facility and isolation methods, and maybe not even then. (All this goes for folks flying in on holiday, too. Customs seem to be serious, judging from the warnings they give, about any plant material coming in.) That said, you aren't limited to simply Pride of Ringwood in your brewing. There is a pretty fair selection of whole New Zealand hops which can be sold here, though my personal feeling is that the NZ varieties are less subtle, more aromatic than their European namesakes. Try them out. And you *might* be able to import rhizomes from NZ; I think that's your only (legal) hope. You can also obtain numerous pre-packaged plugs and pellets of American and European hops, which are OK to import since they've been processed and presumably won't sprout or carry insects. They are generally in quite good shape if you buy from a good shop that keeps them cold. As you asked, "Saaz, Teternang (sic), Hersbrucker, Willimette (sic), Cascade etc."... all available. Drop me a private e-mail if you need a source. Sorry I can't help you on the hop rhizomes, at least not any from the Forbidden Zone (northern hemisphere, etc.). Calvin Perilloux Turrella, Australia (About 12,000 miles southwest of Jeff Renner.) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 07:18:02 -0600 From: The Brews Traveler <BrewsTraveler at adamsco-inc.com> Subject: Re: Things to do in Denver... My homebrew club, the Keg Ran Out Club (KROC), in conjunction with the American Homebrewers Assoc. and the Birko Corporation is once again hosting the 4th Annual KROC World Brewers Forum. This year's speakers will be Ray Danials and Brad Kraus. Ray and Brad will talk about "The Life and Hard Times of Porters" and "Alt Beers". The evening is FREE and we furnish food and beer, door prizes and raffle items. For more information visit our homepage: http://www.henge.com/~mmather/kroc/wbf98.html - -- John Adams The Brews Traveler KROC World Brewers Forum Director http://www.adamsco-inc.com/BrewsTraveler Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 08:30:40 -0500 From: Spencer Tomb <astomb at ksu.edu> Subject: Cave Temperatures Kathy: Cave temperatures will vary according to latitude and altitude. Well water temperature and the air temperature of a cave will be very close to the average annual teperature of a locality. So caves are not all at 55F. There are ice caves in New Mexico. If a 55F cave was used to lager it took some ice to get the temperature down. Spencer Tomb astomb at ksu.edu Kathy wrote: > >The use of caves to get a stable temperature to age beer and wine is >classic, but this only gets a temperature of 55F or so unless ice was >used to lower the temperture. > >Does Jeff or anyone know if ice was used in Bohemia or Bavaria in >addition to lagering in tunnels or caves? Somehow I have "ice caves" in >my mind as the ancient home of lager beer. Was ice used in St Louis or >Cincinnati? Return to table of contents
Date: 15 Sep 1998 09:50:44 -0400 From: JGORMAN at steelcase.com Subject: Maine Again Last week I asked about some of the Microbreweries and Brew Pubs in Bangor, Maine. Thanks for all the responses. I was looking at the map and realized that Bar Harbor is close to Bangor and it has several too. Once again, has anyone been to any of these and what ones would anyone suggest? Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 10:01:17 +0000 From: "Jim Busch" <jim at victorybeer.com> Subject: Caves and temps As someone who has spent a large portion of my younger days underground, I will comment on caves and ambient temperatures. Caves tend to normalize at the median temperature of the surface region, so in much of the central cave area of the US one finds temps in the 50-55F range. Compare this with the temps found in caves in tropical or near tropical climates, in Jamaica as well as Lecheguilla (I know I got that one wrong, its one of the worlds most spectacular caves in New Mexico) are closer to the high 60s. I would venture to guess that caves in Bavaria are colder than the ones I know well in West Virginia while caves in Alaska might be suitable for ice bock! For those that dont have basements or caves, the old root cellar was another method to moderate and control the ambient temps. Prost! Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 09:56:21 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: lagering in caves Jim Booth <kbooth at scnc.waverly.k12.mi.us> wrote: >The use of caves to get a stable temperature to age beer and wine is >classic, but this only gets a temperature of 55F or so unless ice was >used to lower the temperture. 55F is often cited as the minimum temperature of caves, but I suspect that this is not true. My well water (from only 70 ft.) is 52 summer, 46 winter, so it's colder than 55F down there. > >The importance of ice in 19th century brewing of lager beers may have >been in lagering as well as in shipping via railroad cars. >Does Jeff or anyone know if ice was used in Bohemia or Bavaria in >addition to lagering in tunnels or caves? Somehow I have "ice caves" in >my mind as the ancient home of lager beer. Was ice used in St Louis or >Cincinnati? I certainly remember reading in some brewing history in the past that ice was indeed used in Bavarian lagering caves by the monks in middle ages. To answer some of your questions, including early shipping of lager, here is an interesting history of early American lager brewing from "One Hundred Years of Brewing" which was "A Supplement to The Western Brewer, 1903." I have the Arno Press reprint of 1974. T. F. Straub of the Pittsburgh Brewing Co. wrote (p. 200): "My father came to this country in 1830 and located in Pittsburgh as a cooper, in 1831 ... commenced to brew common beer (top fermenting beer) in a little copper kettle ... about one barrel." He moved to Allegheny City in 1840 and increased his capacity to 20 barrels. "In 1848 we heard of Bavarian (lager) beer being brewed in Philadelphia which I claim was the first to be manufactured in the United States [my note, this seems late by other references]. With a great deal of trouble that same winter my father secured a small lot of _untergahr_ yeast, per canal, from Philadelphia, and commenced brewing lager beer in January or February, 1849. ... "About 1850 my father first stored (lagered) about three hundred barrels, and continued to increase until 1854, in which year he made and sold eighteen hundred barrels. Ice was unknown then in the manufacture of lager beer; therefore, caves were blasted in the hills, two miles from the brewery, and all the beer brewed in the winter was carted to the _felsenkellers_ for summer use, the supply usually being exhausted by September 1. Then the brewer had to resort to common beer again until the cold weather set in. There was great demand for Staub's lager during the years 1853 and 1854, even from Detroit and Cincinnati, as any old resident who may now be living will remember." On p. 201, under the heading "First Cincinnati Lager Beer Brewers, " About 1832 a small plant was erected in Cincinnati [Jackson brewery]... The Kleiner Brothers were among its early proprietors and laid out the buildings of the plant substantially as they now appear, covering an area of three hundred by three hundred feet. At great cost they constructed large arched cellars in the hillsides, for which, and for its splendid natural drainage, the brewery became quite famous." P. 203, George Herancourt "In 1852 ... built the first large cellars in Cincinnati for keeping lager during the hot weather, and made his contracts at Christmas for the whole year; and when others wished to buy of him they were refused, for the reson that they had not bought of him during the winter." There are other references such as "two miles of subterranean vaults" (p. 232, Chicago's Huck Brewery before the 1871 fire). Hope this answers some questions, but it raises several more. How cold could they lager? Perhaps just cold enough to keep the beer from spoiling? What color was the beer? Staub heard of "Bavarian beer" being brewed in Philadelphia. Beer in Munich (and Bavaria in general?) was dark until this century (I think Jackson puts it as late as the early 20's when water chemistry manipulations allowed Helles to be brewed in an area with carbonaceous water.) How did they keep their yeast between brewing seasons? How did common beer differ from lager - only in yeast and fermentation, or in recipe as well? Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 09:26:53 -0500 From: Vachom <MVachow at newman.k12.la.us> Subject: love song of n. carolina beer bar Please excuse the non-brewing aside, but I have to comment on a beer bar a couple of North Carolinians have mentioned recently. Is there really a beer bar in N.C. named T.S. Elliot's? I guess it figures that at some point U.S. pub owners would run short on two-initial-then-surname names for their places and have to resort to T.S. Elliot (with the clever addition of an extra "L"). Somehow, though, T.S. Elliot's doesn't seem to impart that quaint flea-market-imbedded-in-the-walls kind of eccentricity pub owners are shooting for with these kinds of names. Perhaps, though, there are ragged claws dangling from the ceiling and sepia proto-porn photos of the carbuncular clerk and the typist. Does the barman rap on the bar at closing time? Does the menu come with massive footnotes? Do people shun the place in April? Must one wear one's trousers rolled? Please tell me this menu item doesn't exist: "Do I Dare to Drink a Peach Wheat Ale." Item # 8 trillion in my contention that the world is a beautiful place. Mike New Orleans, LA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 10:26 -0800 From: "George De Piro" <George_De_Piro at berlex.com> Subject: Mash enzymes/high mash temp/orange light/Weizen/TSP in NY Hi all, Thank the gods (Karl and Pat) that the digest is safe. I thought I was going to die without the fix! Pete asks the interesting question about why mash enzymes have evolved to work so well at temperatures much higher than the plant would ever experience? The germinating plant requires that protein and starch be degraded over a period of days. At the temperatures in the field these enzymes work at the rate needed by the plant, which is not necessarily the fastest rate. If the enzymes worked too quickly in the field the endosperm would saccharify much more quickly than the young plant would metabolize the sugar, leaving a really tempting, sweet treat for animals to eat (and rain to wash away). This would not be conducive to achieving reproduction. It is either God's will or Chance that gave these enzymes such high reaction rates at mash temperatures. Which you choose to believe is a personal matter. ----------------------------------- Greg followed my advice and used a high saccharification temperature for mashing a sweet stout. He has only achieved 50% AA and wonders if this is due to the high mash temp (>70C/158F). My guess is that the fermentation is stuck. You don't need Clinitest to know when fermentations are done or not, just some experience (and a forced fermentation helps, too). The beer should get down around 1.020 (my guess from my experience). If you want to know the final gravity with more certainty pitch an excess of ale yeast into a sample of the beer and ferment it out at high room temperature for a couple of days. Yes, some yeasts do attenuate more than others but many of the common brewing strains will ferment the wort to the same gravity (as measured by your average homebrewer's hydrometer). If you can use the same yeast as the primary, that's great. If not, use a dry yeast (or whatever is most convenient). -------------------------------- Dan says that he has heard that Unibroue is manufacturing their new Pilsner under orange lights to protect it from skunking during its time in the brewery. It is packaged in clear bottles. If this is true, it is one of the most absurd things I have heard. What will happen to the beer once it leaves the brewery? It is more likely that they are using chemically reduced isoalpha acid extract for hopping the beer. These extracts are light-proof. They are also called "tetra hops" and a few other things. It is even more likely that they want the beer to skunk so that it tastes more like Molson, in which case they are using regular hops and allowing chemistry to take its course. This reminds me of a guy that used to work here that would turn the lights off in his office when hand-labeling an experimental product that was potentially light-sensitive. He didn't seem to understand that it wasn't manufactured or sold in the dark...I'm so glad he's gone. Some poor souls in Florida have to deal with him now! ------------------------------------ Mike has heard that he need not use a secondary fermenter for Hefeweizen, and wonders how long it should stay in the primary. He guesses 4 weeks. 4 weeks in the primary is not a good thing for any beer style. You risk yeasty off-flavors developing in the brew because of prolonged contact with a large quantity of deteriorating yeast. Keeping the beer at fermentation temperature will accelerate this process. The purpose of the poorly named "secondary fermenter" is really to separate the young beer from the yeast cake while allowing suspended yeast and stuff to settle. Fermentation should be complete (or darn close to it) when you rack into the secondary. I tend to keep my clearing tanks (aka "secondary fermenters") at relatively cool temperatures to facilitate clarification. You can make some styles without using a clearing tank. Hefeweizen is one of them. It is supposed to be cloudy, so if you want to you can bottle or keg right from the primary after fermentation is complete. I sometimes use a clearing tank just to get some of the excess yeast out (too much yeast in the package can do more harm than good), but sometimes I don't (if the Weizen is destined for quick consumption). Yes, Germans do keg Weizenbier. I prefer the bottle-conditioned versions, though. The kegs of Weizen served here in the US are always less carbonated than they should be. This is because most bars don't have separate pressure regulators on each keg, so the kegged beers all equilibrate at the same carbonation level (which often matches that of a popular Irish stout). This irritates me to no end. Mixed gas serving may be the worst thing since sliced bread (in my opinion; yes, I know it is useful for pushing beer long distances). --------------------------- Alan mentions that TSP is illegal in NY state. He doesn't say why, though. Phosphates were long ago banned from detergents in NY State. Some environmentalist nonsense about algae blooms and low-O2 water killing fish, etc. In the nearby Garden State (New Jersey) they don't have such concerns, so you can buy it there if you desire. Just be sure to bring the waste water back to Jersey with you. Have fun! George de Piro (Nyack, NY) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 07:30:02 -0700 From: Jack Schmidling <arf at mc.net> Subject: Sparge water temp. Keith Busby <kbusby at ou.edu> "During my last brew session, I noticed that the temperature of the mash during sparging dropped gradually to somewhere around 150F..... The first thing you must do is ignore everything ever written on sparge water temp (except what I write, of course). The only fact worth considering is the MASH temperature and you must adjust the sparge water temp so that the proper mash temp is maintained. Vast amounts of heat are lost getting the sparge water into the mash and through the mash tun itself. You probably can not go wrong if you simply bring the sparge water to a boil and turn it off. This is my SOP and my mash never even gets back to the mash out temp much less too high. Just another one of those Momilies that needs to be aired every once in awhile. js - -- Visit our WEB pages: http://user.mc.net/arf ASTROPHOTO OF THE WEEK..... New Every Monday Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 11:40:25 -0400 From: Jeremy Price <pricejy at email.uc.edu> Subject: Alt recipe from Dusseldorf With all the talk about alt biers recently, I thought that I'd post an e-mail to the digest that was sent to me form a brewery in Dusseldorf. The e-mail was sent as a private communication, so I won't give out the brewery's name. I had sent them an e-mail asking them (in my best German) for their recipe. Here is what I received.. >Dear Jeremy Price! > >Our recommendations are if posible in english. > >Output: 60 litres > >Malt: 9,00 kg Pilsener malt > 0.21 kg Caramel malt > 0,125 kg Roasted malt > > 37 litres water > >Mash: 15 min 48 C > 10 min 52 C > 30 min 62 C > 20 min 72 C > 5 min 78 C > > 90 min cooking > > 10 min after cooking-start 1. Hopfengabe > 20 min after cooking-start 2. Hopfengabe > >The kind of hop is not the problem. You need 9,95 mg a(alpha)-Sure for >each litre output. > >GOOD LUCK and best wishes. Feel free to convert the metric this to our lovely American system. I find the choice of malts a bit surprising; no Munich malt for one. I personally have never had this particular alt bier, so I have no comment on the outcome of this recipe. I did ask them shat type of hops they use, but with all of the hop additions coming early in the boil, it doesn't make much difference. I wish they would have commented about fermentation and cold conditioning temperatures and times. I don't know about you all, but I am READY to brew an ALT. This weekend I think..... Gidde up! Jeremy Price Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 12:07:08 -0400 From: Peter.Perez at smed.com Subject: on fresh versus dry hops I just got to thinking about this and came up with something that seeme reasonable. My thinking, and I could be wrong here, is that the hops don't shrink or lose any size as they dry. So if you have a pile of dry hops in front of you that you weighed out to 1 oz. or was weighed out o 1 oz. by your homebrew supply shop, you could just lay out a pile of fresh hops the same size. If you wanted to be really anal you could count the number of whole hop cones in each pile. Then you wouldn't have to worry about how much moisture is in them, etc. I would think these should be pretty close to the same levels of flavor and bitterness. As a matter of fact I would then weigh both piles and see exactly how much more the pile of fresh hops weighted. Is there something that I am missing here that trashes my theory? Thanks, Pete Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 12:15:07 -0400 (EDT) From: Joe Rolfe <onbc at shore.net> Subject: Re: Priming with dextrose Question was asked about the amount of dextrose to add to a given volume to get a certain level of carbonation. I doubt you will find an exact number. When our brewery was doing these calcuation strictly by gram/liter - carbonation varied quite a bit. (as measured by head pressure gauge by Zahm). After looking into the raw materials (dextrose powdered form) we found that the batch to batch (delevered to our brewery) had differing moisture contents. This was determined after a call to the mfg'er and seeing the tight specs they mfg to Bottle conditioning is not all that difficult a concept providing you have proper tools (real good measurment tools hydrometer/sacharomter - low range ones in particular). Once you know for sure the yeast has taken the beer to the "bottom" (by whatever means you do that) you can add a certain volume of primings at a certain percent sugar. Dont forget to add the fresh yeast before bottling. The goal is not how many grams/liter (as this can change based on daily humidity and bag to bag of the primings). My mentor basically got away from using powder and went to liquid glucose due to ease of use and less variance. I can see why. It was a pain in the butt to measure volume and gravity to the acurate levels required - three times a day....YMWV Not sure where i saw some of these formula that I based mine on, but they can basically be found in some of the higher end homebrew. I dont have all the records available but 1degree plato raise rings a bell for what we did and gave us our moderate level of Co2 2.3-2.5 range. forgive the typos - i went from a company that had t1 to one with 56k connections....slow...... anyway if i can find some of the brew sheets in the piles i will post back. good luck and great brewing joe rolfe Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 12:17:40 -0400 From: "Tkach, Christopher" <tkach at cabletron.com> Subject: Re: Sparge water temp. Keith- I can personally vouch for high tannin extraction with higher sparge temps. I use to regularly raise my sparge water to boiling during the mash and place it in a cooler to keep it warm...incidently I was sparging w/ 200F water, and my beers showed it...every single one of them was highly astringent. It took me a good 6 months to figure out what the hell was the problem as I perceived the off flavor as being smokey, which had never shown up in my beers before, but then again, I had just switched over to all-grain from partial mashes. Since then I've moved, so the water is different, but at the sametime I lowered my sparge water to around 175F, and haven't had a problem since, even with delicate beers. I don't see how leaving the burner on would help you, as it will only be heating the liquid that has already gone through the grain bed, I guess it would lower the amount of time it took to start your boil :). I say go ahead, and try raising the sparge to 180F, and see what happens. - Chris Dover, NH Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 09:27:31 -0700 From: Badger Roullett <branderr at microsoft.com> Subject: Sludge Starter Great Googlie Mooglies... I recently saved the sludge on teh bottom of my primary (from a 5 gallon batch, pitched Whitbread Ale and Australian Ale, see the whole slow start question I asked before, from a whole hopped batch strained with a choreboy at teh bottom of the kettle so it was pretty clean sludge). I simply poured it from teh carboy into a clean, and rinsed with 140 deg water large beer bottle, and stuck it in the fridge with a post it note saying "Do NOT mistake this for a Bottle of Shakespeare Stout!" (i used a rouge bottle). Recently i did the 2 batch runnings (period style all that) that i will post teh notes from later. When i racked this to primary, I pitched half of the sludge (warmed to room temp) with a packet each of Nottingham (i have my reasons for pitching 3 yeasts). 2 hours later Badda Bing Badda Boom.. and away we go. i had a nice active fermentation, and and happy airlock. Question: I didn't do nothing fancy, no yeast washing, no autoclaving, no stepping up, nothing. Is going to work every time like this? is this an acceptable practice? I am not too anal about my brewing, and it always seems to come out fine., but yeast seems to be an unforgiving medium... The nottingham pitching is not going to be standard practice, just the sludge saving, and repitching.. Comments? *************************************************** Brander Roullett aka Badger Homepage: http://www.nwlink.com/~badger Brewing Page: http://www.nwlink.com/~badger/badgbeer.html In the SCA: Lord Frederic Badger of Amberhaven Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 12:48:30 -0400 From: Peter.Perez at smed.com Subject: sticke All this talk about Alts has got me itchin to brew another. I am most likely going to brew a classic Dusseldorfer Alt, but, I have been getting more and more interested in brewing a Sticke. But I don't know to what extent the hops and malts are modified from a classic Alt recipe. Seems like enough people here have reputable Alt knowledge and recipes that someone should be able to post me an authentic recipe for Sticke, or at least something to start with. Thanks, Pete Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 10:00:14 -0700 From: "Tomusiak, Mark" <tomusiak at amgen.com> Subject: Alt Yeast Data Point Greetings all...thought I would join in the discussion regarding altbiers and yeasts. I just racked an altbier that I made about a week ago. I am fermenting with Brewtek's "Old German Ale" strain, which I stepped up from a slant to about 2 L prior to use. Primary fermentation was at 58 - 60 F, and at racking the gravity had dropped from 1.050 to 1.010. The yeast seems to perform well at the lower temperatures - definitely a strong top fermentor, with a thick paste of yeast rising to the top of the foam after a few days. I will post again later as the brew progresses. By the way, I am curious as to why I don't hear the Brewtek strains mentioned more frequently on the Digest (no affiliation with Brewer's Resource, yada yada). They are available by mail order, and have quite a large and interesting selection of strains, although their origins are unspecified. Thoughts or comments? Brew on, Mark Tomusiak, Boulder, Colorado. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 13:08:42 -0400 (EDT) From: ALAN KEITH MEEKER <ameeker at welchlink.welch.jhu.edu> Subject: corking homemade bottles Hi All. My wife is a potter and has recently made me a batch of beautiful hand made ceramic bottles to be used primarily with meads and barleywines. In her original attempts at making bottles it became clear that keeping the opening within a tollerance sufficient for capping would be pretty hard. So, we decided that the way to go would be to try corking, probably with wire cages, that way she doesn't have to be so careful with the opening diameters. However, I haven't had any experience with corks (at least, not putting them *into* bottles) so I'd like to get some input from those of you w/ such experience. Specifically, what equiptment would you suggest, what are the best corks to buy and how do you go about sanitizing them? also, will they work OK if there is say about 2-3 mm variation in the opening diameter? I'm hoping to use these as gifts and for long-term storage of special brews. If anyone is interested in custom made bottles send me an e-mail and I'll let you know how this works out... -Alan - ------------------------------------------------------------------ "Graduate school is the snooze button on the alarm clock of life." -Jim Squire -Alan Meeker Johns Hopkins Hospital Dept. of Urology (410) 614-4974 __________________________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
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