---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com


Contents:
  HLT for a Brew Pot? (Rod Prather)
  Acifiying No-Sparge Water (Ken Schwartz)
  Boy was I red: UPDATE. All hail HBD. (Rod Prather)
  SG rise from priming. (John Varady)
  Re: Wyeast #1968 (John Herman)
  Bunsen burner ("Lee B.")


Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy!

Enter The Mazer Cup! _THE_ mead competition.
Details available at http://hbd.org/mazercup
Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org

If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!!

To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word
  "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org. 
**SUBSCRIBE AND UNSUBSCRIBE REQUESTS MUST BE SENT FROM THE E-MAIL
  ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!**
IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, the autoresponder and
  the SUBSCRIBE/UNSUBSCRIBE commands will fail!

Contact brewery at hbd.org for information regarding the "Cat's Meow"

Back issues are available via:

  HTML from...
        http://hbd.org
  Anonymous ftp from...
	ftp://hbd.org/pub/hbd/digests
	ftp://ftp.stanford.edu/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer
  AFS users can find it under...
        /afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer

COPYRIGHT for the Digest as a collection is currently held by hbd.org 
  (Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen). Digests in their entirity CANNOT be 
  reprinted/reproduced without this entire header section unless 
  EXPRESS written permission has been obtained from hbd.org. Digests
  CANNOT be reprinted or reproduced in any format for redistribution
  unless said redistribution is at absolutely NO COST to the consumer.
COPYRIGHT for individual posts within each Digest is held by the
  author. Articles cannot be extracted from the Digest and
  reprinted/reproduced without the EXPRESS written permission of the 
  author. The author and HBD must be attributed as author and source in
  any such reprint/reproduction. (Note: QUOTING of items originally
  appearing in the Digest in a subsequent Digest is exempt from the
  above. Home brew clubs NOT associated with organizations having a
  commercial interest in beer or brewing may republish articles in their
  newsletters and/or websites provided that the author and HBD are
  attributed. ASKING first is still a great courtesy...)

JANITORS on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 13:40:40 -0500
From: Rod Prather <rodpr at iquest.net>
Subject: HLT for a Brew Pot?

Anyone who follows a certain path of logic will eventually come up with the
same
questions that have been asked before.  Eventually, with enough answers,
similar
conclusions also.  So I am sure this question has been raised, I just don't
know
the answer.

For a home brew RIMS, why can't you use the HLT for the brew pot.  One less
pot, one less burner, less fabrication.  In an RIMS where the mash is heated
by a recirc coil in the HLT you could make a complete system with a single
burner.  The only real problem that I see is the cleaning measures required.
If the coil were removable that would be minimal.

Obviously, in a production situation this would put a crimp on the product
flow
but I don't see why you can't do it in a home situation.


Return to table of contents


Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 12:20:34 -0700
From: Ken Schwartz <kenbob at elp.rr.com>
Subject: Acifiying No-Sparge Water

Mike Rose asks about adding acid during a no-sparge session.

The best time to adjust the pH would be pre-boil, to ensure that all
pH-related effects are accounted for.  However, chances are you will not
need to add much if any acid due to the buffering ability of the wort. 
Only if the water you're adding is very alkaline would this probably be
necessary.  Check the pH before acidifying.

- -- 
*****

Ken Schwartz
El Paso, TX
kenbob at elp.rr.com
http://home.elp.rr.com/brewbeer


Return to table of contents


Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 16:04:55 -0500
From: Rod Prather <rodpr at iquest.net>
Subject: Boy was I red: UPDATE. All hail HBD.

Many of you responded to my question about an apparent alergic reaction to a
beer I drank while still in ferment.   I bottled it, bottle conditioned,
let it set 5 days and tested the outcome.  Well, it doesn't make me red
anymore.  It was probably due to something interrim in the fermentation
process.  Thanks to all who responded.  Probably Fusel alcohols.

In fact it is quite tasty for an extract beer.  It resembles a porter.  This
is because it was made from 2 cans of 4 year old light malt extract that I
found in my closet added to a pound or so of new amber DME to step up 
the ABV in a 5 gallon batch.    The extract was very dark due to age, 
something I will never be able to duplcate precisely.  With the exception 
of a bit too much mouth feel, this is probably the tastiest beer I have 
ever made.  Largely, I feel, due to the hop balance which was more chance 
than knowledge.

I'm going to call it U.N. Porter (though it isn't really and ale) because 
I mixed German Hallertau, Willamettes and American 
Tettnangs.   O.G of 1.052  F.G. of 1.015.  1 1/4 oz of Willamettes  
at 60 minutes brew and 1/2 oz of Hallertau at 30 minutes.  It had a total 
IBU of 30 but I added a tea steeped of  1/2 oz of
hallertau at the beginning of fermentation which probably increased that
slightly.  I also added a 1/2 oz dry hop of American Tettnang plug at the 
end of 4 days fermentation.   The dry hop stayed on the beer for 5 days
until
bottling.  Yeast?  Sorry guys, Coopers dry yeast, sure I broke the 
rules but it worked.  I haven't progressed to Wyeast yet.  Don't know 
that I will except maybe to make a Kolsch in the future in honor of 
Al K. and maybe a Belgian or two.  Don't much care for Weiss or Hefe Weiss.

Thanks to the knowledge base of HBD discussions I feel that I now have a
solid basis for brewing principles.  I know I've made some stupid statement
in the last few months but I send my thanks to all of you who aided 
my knowledge.   Note: No fruit flies were added.

Nostrovia to HBD......



Return to table of contents


Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 16:31:47 -0500
From: John Varady <rust1d at usa.net>
Subject: SG rise from priming.

Expected rise in SG from priming:

My trusty Bottle Priming Calculator tells me that 5 gallons of beer at 60F
contains 1.05 volumes of co2 already. To carbonate to 2.5 volumes, I need
to prime with .2238 lbs (101.54 grams) of corn sugar or .1791 lbs (81.23
grams) of cane sugar.

Using a specific gravity contribution of 1.037 for corn sugar and 1.046 for
cane sugar;

Corn Sugar : .2238 lbs X 37 points / 5 gallons = rise of 1.6565 points

Cane Sugar : .1791 lbs X 46 points / 5 gallons = rise of 1.6475 points


I just weighed 3/4 corn sugar at .3152 lbs (143 grams). This yields:

 .3152 lbs X 37 points / 5 gallons = rise of 2.333 points

This would result in a carbonation level of 3.10 volumes in the 5 gallons
of 60F beer we wish to prime. This is why it's better to weigh your priming
sugar.





John Varady                     http://www.netaxs.com/~vectorsys/varady
Boneyard Brewing                The Home Brew Recipe Calculating Program
Glenside, PA                    ***> rust1d at usa.net




Return to table of contents


Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 19:19:57 -0500
From: John Herman <johnvic at earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Wyeast #1968

I had used Wyeast #1968 on three occasions for an ESB.  I also emailed
Wyeast about the need to rousing.  They said you don't need to, but that
your FG should be a couple of points higher than usual.  I was not happy
with the results.  I found the ale to be too sweet.  Now, this was
before I started aerating with an aeration stone, which has greatly
helped my beers.

My advice is that, unless you properly aerate, don't use this yeast.

John Herman



Return to table of contents


Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 20:58:30 -0800
From: "Lee B." <leeb at iea.com>
Subject: Bunsen burner

Looking for a bunsen burner for yeast manipulations. I assume a bunsen is
preferrable to an alcohol burner? Any good sources welcome.

I would like to connect the bunsen burner to a standard non-refillable
propane cartridge. Anyone know where to get the proper connections? Is this
safe?
TIA
_____________________________________________
Lee B.
leeb at iea.com




Return to table of contents

---