HOMEBREW Digest #2933 Thu 21 January 1999

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Re: Purity of Dry v's Liquid Yeasts (HBD #2932) (Herbert Bresler)
  Bad Service Pandemic / Posting Questionable Data ("Jeffrey M. Kenton")
  yeast starters (FLHNEM)
  *delicate* balance (Boeing)" <BayerMA at navair.navy.mil>
  Re:Purity of Dry v's Liquid Yeasts ("Humphrey,Patrick")
  HLT for Brew Pot ("Timmons, Frank")
  Hot break filtering, runout and a need for speed ("Riedel, Dave")
  blue corn meal as an adjunct (Markus Berndt)
  New Dry Yeasts... (Badger Roullett)
  Brew Stands... (Badger Roullett)
  RE: The Jethro Gump Report/2 (LaBorde, Ronald)
  Hennepin Yeast, Isinglass (rbarnes)
  drums (Kim Thomson)
  Beer in Barcelona (Steven Gibbs)
  MCAB Event Preregistration (Louis Bonham)
  Rocket Airlocks...Wyeast English Ale II (Drewmeister)
  Yeast Purity - Dry vs. Liquid (Bob.Sutton)
  World Cup of Beer (Dave Sapsis)
  Simple Raspberry Wheat Recipe - Extract (ctopoleski)
  Sanitizing Bottles & Aluminum Foil ("Franklin.Tom")
  whiskey or whisky (Scott Murman)
  Correct Foam Terminology (ALAN KEITH MEEKER)
  millenium barleywine (JPullum127)
  RE: Humble Questions ("Alan McKay")
  Re: Boilover prevention (Joe Callahan)
  re: Diacetyl rest (Lou.Heavner)
  Cheap temp control for early stage of lagers (hank bienert)
  Jeremy's humble questions (Vachom)
  Nitrous Oxide (Dan Listermann)
  impossibly low barleywine OG?? (Project One)
  Re: Boil Overs ("Humphrey,Patrick")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 11:31:44 -0500 From: Herbert Bresler <bresler.7 at osu.edu> Subject: Re: Purity of Dry v's Liquid Yeasts (HBD #2932) In HBD #2932, David Lamotte wrote about the "Purity of Dry v's Liquid Yeasts" >>Now if we only knew what '< 1cfu / ml' meant ... anyone got any ideas. cfu stands for "colony forming unit" When a lab looks for bacteria, the sample is plated onto a suitable medium and incubated until colonies appear. So, the standard being expressed by Wyeast is that they will find less than one colony of bacteria per milliliter of sample tested. Good luck and good brewing, Herb Bexley, Ohio SODZ Homebrew Club Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 10:34:13 -0600 From: "Jeffrey M. Kenton" <jkenton at iastate.edu> Subject: Bad Service Pandemic / Posting Questionable Data Dear HBD Collective. Please consider this as an open letter addressing two issues: Bad Service in the Homebrew Arena, and Posting Questionable Data on the HBD. These are not necessarily personal issues. If you disagree with what I have to say, please address me directly at the email address above. There's no need to discuss replies on the HBD. Furthermore, if you don't want to read this message, please page down. Thank You. Now on to the meat. We have all read (or chosen not to) the saga between a few dissatisfied customers of a mail order supply house, and the supply house itself. The problem can be boiled down to a single issue. One party was receiving bad service, and the other was trying hard, initially, to deny this was the case. I also read how several people decided to take sides on the issue without being party to the issue firsthand. Finally, I read how the supply house was reconciling with the party involved, and everything was supposed to be hunky dory. I just have one thing to say: Customer service should be the cornerstone of any business. I would NEVER give over a single penny to a place of business that gave me bad service. I would also endeavor for as long as it took to make sure that I was satisfied before discontinuing my involvement with them, however. I don't know the initial poster, but if he had to result to letting us all know about his problem with a particular company, there are serious problems that we should all consider before doing business with them. I applaud the pluck of the people who made me aware of a business that might have some problems in the mail order business. I'll file it away, and act accordingly. Now to the second issue: Posting questionable data on the HBD. I have read the HBD for several years, and have posted occasionally. I have used the HBD as an excellent source of information, and have improved, in my opinion, my brewing skills. However, one thing really gets under my skin, which is posting conjecture. Posts that contain the phrase, "I don't have the resource to hand, but...." or "I can't recall exactly how process xxxx works, but here's what I remember...." or "I remember from Organic Chemistry fifteen years ago that..." really make for a great number of worthless posts. These types of posts only make it possible for twenty people to reply that the intial post was off the mark, often all coming in the very next issue, or delaying the queue for several days. This problem (as I see it) could be avoided by considering the following things: 1. There is no time limit on replying to a post that you feel is in error. 2. Consult as many references as possible before posting a new topic. 3. Please make sure to include the reference when posting something out-of-the-norm. As an example, "any aeration is bad, even of cold wort before pitching yeast." Then offer a reference to back this up. Like Lirpa Sloof, of the Aprilesel Institute of Technology, writing in the April Fools Science Journal Volume 4, Issue 1. That way, if someone wants to dispute this claim, they can also choose to look at the same bit of info you used to come to your conclusion. Don't get me wrong. There are several issues that are gimmes, like "do airlocks really keep out nasties?" However, many issues discussed in this forum are of the heavy science type, like "Do yeast respire in the presence of glucose and oxygen?" The value of this resource depends heavily on the quality of the component posts. Please let's be aware of these issues, and be more careful about what we so easily post here. There is also no rule saying that the HBD needs to be 50 K every day. As I said before, please address replies to me at jkenton at iastate.edu Jeff Kenton Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 12:18:49 EST From: FLHNEM at aol.com Subject: yeast starters Thank you to all who replied to my post about slow yeast growth due to low "room temperature" . I recieved several suggestions of locations that may provide the 80ish degree temp to get the yeast growing. These may help other brewers with the same problem. In no particular order; on top of fridge or vcr, water bath with aquarium heater, closet or oven with light on. I was also advised to start yeast up to two weeks before brew day. Several people advised yeast starters. There have been many posts on this lately, I think I will try the method descibed by Richard Hampo in Digest #2929 the way he describes himself we could be long lost brothers. My second question asked what the harm in fermentation delay is? For those who are interested go to Geoge DePiro's post on Digest # 2930. There were other replies but George covered it all. Thanks again all. Frank Hight Worcester, Ma. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 13:10:48 -0500 From: "Bayer, Mark A (Boeing)" <BayerMA at navair.navy.mil> Subject: *delicate* balance collective homebrew conscience_ recently, gdp wrote: >To my palate, a very dextrinous beer can end up tasting worty and unrefined (I've done it enough >times myself to convince myself of this).<snip>the majority of beer styles taste more elegant if >they are reasonably well-attenuated. The use of hops and malts rich in melanoidins (or using >mash schedules that produce them) can control the perceived level of maltiness in the beer, >rather than high mash temperatures. come on, george, haven't you been paying attention??? all the west coast micros have the answer to the big dextrins. you're supposed to just clobber the *#%& out of the beer with hops. see, that way the beer comes out balanced. *sarcasm mode off* i could not agree more. i've noticed lately that a lot of my standard o.g. (~1.048) beers that are finishing at 1.013 or so are tasting very slightly worty. not as bad as the vienna lager that finished at 1.020 (!), but there are characteristics to the flavor that are similar. my yeast starters are normally two steps (1 pt, 1.5 qt) unless i'm repitching an entire primary sediment, and i use oxygenation/aeration at every pitching/repitching, so i wonder if maybe the mash temps need to come down. in other words, i think the yeast has probably done as much as it's going to do. but i wonder if that's really true? the more i brew, the more krausening really seems like a great idea - even if i am kegging the beer. when i first started all-grain brewing, i used to saccharify as close to 151 deg f as i could. most of the standard, all-malt o.g. beers finished out around 1.010 or 1.011, and i never noticed the worty flavors (but maybe i wasn't paying enough attention). rather, i had it in my head that these beers needed more "flavor", from all contributors. so i decided to start mashing a little hotter, up around 155 deg f for most beers. now i'm starting to rethink the whole thing. question: what does mashing at 155-160 deg f contribute, other than more sweetness? are "malty" and "sweet" necessarily linked? i don't want the sweetness for most beers, i just want the malty flavors. shouldn't i be able to get malty flavors with low saccharification temps? i'm not necessarily talking about "kilned" malty flavors - like you get in german dunkels. i'm including the clean light malty flavors you get in a good dry german pilsner. of course, yeast selection is another factor to consider. unattenuative yeasts (e.g. wyeast 2124, 1968, etc.) combined with high saccharification temps lead to higher f.g.'s, more sweetness. i wonder also about the fermentors. i use glass carboys, and i've read at least a few times that beers that are fermented with open fermentors have been given higher marks than the same beers using closed fermentors. does anybody know what the reasoning behind this is? on a related point, can you get better attenuation with smaller depth:to:volume ratios (i.e., shallower vessels)? most of this is just musing, just trying to push some buttons out there. and of course, how do you think your delicately balanced, attenuated beer will fare in a competition against all those heavy, worty, highly hopped brews? hmm, can you say palate fatigue? brew hard, mark bayer Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 12:36:02 -0600 From: "Humphrey,Patrick" <patrick.humphrey at abbott.com> Subject: Re:Purity of Dry v's Liquid Yeasts David wondered what cfu stands for... >The Purity Standards are listed as: >Wild Yeast and Mold ; Negative in 10 ml suspension >Bacteria ; < 1 cfu / ml >Yeast Mutants; None detected >So there it is - all our questions answered. Now if we only knew what >'< 1cfu / ml' meant ... anyone got any ideas. cfu stands for "colony forming units" ie. one bacterial cell per milliliter of suspension, which turns into two, four, eight, sixteen... you get the idea. Pat Humphrey Lake Villa, IL (five miles from the cheeseheads) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 13:50:00 -0700 From: "Timmons, Frank" <Frank.Timmons at alliedsignal.com> Subject: HLT for Brew Pot In hbd 2931, Rod Prather asked about using (I assume) the brew pot for the HLT. My setup does that. I have a two tier system with one burner and a mag drive pump, suitable for high temperatures, to move the liquids. I heat up enough water to mash and sparge with in my brewpot, when it gets to strike water temperature (depending on the mash schedule), I pump enough of it over to my mash tun and begin my mash. I continue heating the remaining water until it boils, and circulate the mash liquid, using the pump through a copper coil in the brewpot, controlling temperature of the mash by regulating flow through the coil. After mashout, I just pump all of the hot sparge water up to a container on the second level and gravity feed that into the mash tun. The wort is pumped from the mash tun to the brewpot for boiling (the brewpot and mash tun are at the same elevation). After the boil, I pump through a counterflow chiller. I had to do this to be able to brew 10 gallon batches in my 6.5 foot high basement, but I find that it works well. All my connections that can see hot wort are hard piped to ensure that no air is entrained in the wort, and I can regulate the flow rates with ball and globe valves. Once I figured out how to use the system, I get very clear wort, good extraction, good beer, and I don't have to lift any heavy containers. I won't be able to put any microprocessor control gizmos on this, not that I'd want to. Cleaning the parts is easy, after use I rinse the heater coil inside and out and hang up to dry. After each use, I rinse, TSP wash, rinse, and Iodiphor all of the other tubing and parts. Frank Timmons Richmond, Va. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 11:14:44 -0800 From: "Riedel, Dave" <RiedelD at PAC.DFO-MPO.GC.CA> Subject: Hot break filtering, runout and a need for speed Hey gang, My current boil kettle setup has a copper manifold around the outside edge of a converted 50L keg (slots down). I run my wort through a 3/8" counterflow chiller. My basic problem at the moment is slow runout. It takes at least 15 mins (probably longer) to collect 5 gallons of cooled wort. Perhaps this is normal, but it sure makes aroma hop additions seem awfully close to flavour additions by the time the wort is in the carboy. What I'm wondering is what I can do to increase the flow rate. Next batch I'm going to put the outlet tube right to the bottom of the carboy - this will give me another 2 feet of siphon 'pull'. But, what else can I do? I put the manifold at the edge of the fermenter with a plan to whirlpool the hotbreak and hops in the centre and collect away from it at the edge. This was fine in theory, but in application, I've found (particularly for 10 gallon batches) I've got enough hops to fill up the concave bottom and up over the manifold by a few inches (or more). So, I'm wondering if I should increase the amount of manifold and run some of it across the middle of the keg bottom. Where does the hop break settle? If it tends to lag the sinking of the hops, then it should rest on top of the hop bed and I can safely cover the bottom with the manifold and draw off wort through a 'hop filter'. Either that or go with a pizza-pan false bottom and a plain pick-up tube... Any thoughts here? Cheers, Dave Riedel Victoria, BC, Canada PS re: 1968 - I wouldn't be paranoid about trying this yeast, I used it for a best bitter and it had a wonderful character. I don't oxygenate. I use a venturi tube and then shake the carboy for 10-15 mins. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 13:48:12 -0700 (MST) From: Markus Berndt <Markus.Berndt at Colorado.EDU> Subject: blue corn meal as an adjunct Hi all, while shopping for bulk corn meal (for use in a classic american pilsner this weekend) in our local granola store, I came across a box of blue corn meal. Has anyone ever used this and, does it have any effect on the color of the resulting beer? Oh, here is another question. Next to the corn meal I found polenta, which is coarsly ground corn. Can this be used instead of corn meal or flaked maize (of course I will boil it to gelatinize it)? - Markus Zwischen Leber un Milz passst immer ein Pils (classsic american, that is)! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 13:06:59 -0800 From: Badger Roullett <branderr at microsoft.com> Subject: New Dry Yeasts... Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 03:21:39 -0600 From: "Rob Moline" <brewer at ames.net> Subject: The Jethro Gump Report/1 The Jethro Gump Report/Part 1 <snip> "New Dry Yeasts ..... I have seen quite a bit of traffic on the HBD on the Nottingham yeast, and as a fan of this product, I was pleased......" Yup, its a great yeast. "But, the real news is that Lallemand is soon due to release a new line of dry yeasts, initially for the pro-brewer market, that will IMHO, shake the yeast world up. These will be a line of dry yeasts that have originated in the halls of the world's premier brewing institutions, been sent to Lallemand for manufacture, processing and packaging, before samples are culled for examination by the originating institution." Can you give any hints as to specific ones? So we can really drool, and get all lathered up for their eventual release. "Look for release in the next few months to the pro-brewers, and unfortunately, god knows when to the homebrewing market." Any suggestions as to who to write to encourage them to release to us sooner? Badger ********************************************* Brander Roullett aka Badger (Seattle, WA) Brewing Page: http://www.nwlink.com/~badger/badgbeer.html Badgers Brewing Bookstore: http://www.nwlink.com/~badger/brewbook.html Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 13:21:45 -0800 From: Badger Roullett <branderr at microsoft.com> Subject: Brew Stands... Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 19:53:15 GMT From: huskers at voyager.net (Jason Henning) Subject: priming sugar effects on gravity, brewery set up, and making barley wine "My brew stand is easily the best investment I've made. It's made brewing so much simpler." " My system completely relies on gravity. My brewing has been going downhill for the last 50 batches! I probably would've bought a pump if I hadn't built a brew stand. " I am on the verge of making this step myself.. and i was wondering if people had recomendations for Brewstands that i can buy, not being a welder or knowing of one... I would like one that is already setup with burners, but not teh pots, as i have two, and am making arrangements to get a third keg soon. Thanks in advance. ********************************************* Brander Roullett aka Badger (Seattle, WA) Brewing Page: http://www.nwlink.com/~badger/badgbeer.html Badgers Brewing Bookstore: http://www.nwlink.com/~badger/brewbook.html Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 15:22:54 -0600 From: rlabor at lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald) Subject: RE: The Jethro Gump Report/2 >>>> improvements in technique, ingredients, and procedure have resulted in a decrease in labor requirements, and thus my position <<<< The Chief of Engineering of the starship Enterprise, Scotty, has always kept his position, as he knows the fine art of supplying and reducing output on demand. "But captain - she's already at 110 percent, any more and I am afraid she'll blow" Ron Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor at lsumc.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 99 16:32:44 -0800 From: rbarnes at sdccd.cc.ca.us Subject: Hennepin Yeast, Isinglass Hi all, Last weekend I attempted to propagate the yeast from a bottle of Hennepin Ale. I added a few ounces of hopped wort to the dregs in the bottle, a shot of oxygen, and things seemed to take off. This was Friday evening. On Sunday I transferred the fermenting wort to a half-gallon jar and added a quart of fresh wort from a stout that I brewed (1.055). Aerated with pure oxygen, and had activity within a couple of hours. OK, here's my question. By Monday morning I still saw activity but the wort had cooled to probably the mid-60s (deg. f.). Thinking that this yeast would perform better at a higher temp I wrapped the jar with a towel and heating pad and went on my merry way. That night I checked the temp just for grins, and it was 100 degrees! What will this do to the yeast? It was still active (and still active the next morning after removing the heat). I plan to step it up one more time before using, if I use it at all. I know that dry yeast is typically rehydrated at this temperature, but I haven't heard references to overheating liquid yeast. Now going from Stupid Brewer Tricks to Strange Brewer Tricks, has anyone ever tried to make Isinglass? If I took the air bladder out of a catfish, for instance, cleaned and dried it, what else would I have to do to use it as a fining agent? Randy in San Diego Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 18:16:33 -0600 From: Kim Thomson <alabrew at mindspring.com> Subject: drums To keep St. Pat's name going on the HBD... What are you brewers doing with the blue plastic containers the original poster was talking about? I get my malt in 15 gal. metal food grade drums and they are stacking up - have 10 now and use one about every two weeks. They are about 13 1/2" in diameter (a lid from a 7.6 gal. plastic fermenter will fit it), have two openings - one about 2 1/4" and the other about 1", and two handles. Each one weighs ~14 lb.. Have given many away for use as garage garbage cans but know there are better uses and the recycle center doesn't want them because of the plastic lining. Kim Thomson private e-mail ok - alabrew at mindspring.com - -- ALA-BREW Homebrewing Supplies Birmingham, AL http://www.mindspring.com/~alabrew/ Full Service Home Beer And Wine Brewing Supply Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 17:25:29 -0800 From: Steven Gibbs <gibbs at lightspeed.net> Subject: Beer in Barcelona To the learned collective: I will be traveling to Barcelona, Spain in March for a family get together. The last time I was there I found the beer selection very sparse. I would like to know if any of you know where I could find a good Belgian, Czech, or German beer outlet, tapas bar or anything else where I might be able to find European brews. A real bonus would be a brew pub or micro brewery. Any help in this regard would be greatly appreciated. Happy Brewing Steve Gibbs Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 06:28:35 -0600 From: Louis Bonham <lkbonham at phoenix.net> Subject: MCAB Event Preregistration Hi folks: As we're getting closer to the MCAB, a number of people have requested that we offer some sort of pre-registration and make the "pre-registered" list available at the conference to attendees so that people can see who's there. In addition, two of the events (Clear Lake Pub Crawl on Saturday afternon and George De Piro's Sensory Evaluation Seminar) will by necessity have to be on a limited seating basis (about 43 for the Clear Lake Pub Crawl and 80 for the sensory evaluation seminar), which we may be able to expand if we know in advance the number of people who want to participate in these events. Finally, a number of the speakers have requested an approximate head count so they can have printed materials prepared. (There will be a nominal charge for bus passes for the pub crawls (probably about $5) and for a food ticket for the final bash (probably $5-10). Final pricing will be announced when we have gotten all the remaining sponsors lined up and committed.) Ergo, if you're planning to attend the MCAB -- especially if you're from out of town -- please drop me an e-mail with the following information: Name of attendee Address, telephone, e-mail Brew Club Affiliation Plans to Attend (list events you want to attend): Friday evening Pub Crawl (Houston Village Area) Friday night George Fix / Paul Farnsworth beer tasting Saturday morning technical conference Saturday afternoon technical conference Saturday afternoon Pub Crawl (Clear Lake area) Saturday afternoon Sensory evaluation seminar (note: the Saturday afternoon pub crawl and the Sensory Evaluation Seminar are at the same time) Saturday evening party Additionally, if you are a National Judge and want to be put on the list of candidates for the remaining panel slots, please indicate this as well. (Master judges who have not already done so should contact me directly to reserve their desired panel assignments.) Judges -- even if they have reserved their panel assignments -- will all need to check in at the judge check in table at the hotel on Friday evening (by 7 PM) and Saturday morning (by 11 AM). Finally, please indicate the time/date and airport you will be flying in to. We *may* be able to either have a few scheduled airport pickups or help coordinate ground transportation with other MCAB attendees. (If we're able to do so, I'll contact you directly -- but please assume that you'll have to arrange your own ground transportation!) As always, please feel free to write me with questions. Louis K. Bonham Organizer, Masters Championship of Amateur Brewing Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 08:28:14 -0500 From: Drewmeister <drewmstr at erols.com> Subject: Rocket Airlocks...Wyeast English Ale II Hello all, this is my first post on HBD. Been getting it for years, but just recently started reading it in earnest. I am a homebrewer of about 6 years, do all-grain, partials and extract. Whatever mood strikes. Anyway, I recently did an extract batch IPA using Wyeast English Ale II. I typically ferment in a 7 gal carboy, but my 7 gal was indisposed and I had to use a 5 gal. After cooling the wort and pitching the yeast and aerating, I put in a standard 3 piece airlock with vodka. Here is the first question. The last 3 batches I've done, I can't stop the airlock from draining at least once (thus I use vodka). I can see if the wort is over room temp that as the wort and air inside the sealed fermenter cool, the pressure decreases and the water (vodka) gets sucked in. However this time, I could swear the wort was LESS than room temp. Anyway, I refilled with distilled water and it was fine after that. After about 14 hours it started going ape. That's when I realized that I should have used a blow-off tube. The airlock eventually got clogged with Krausen (my local shop owner told me to leave it) and as the pressure built up inside the carboy it shot out the airlock out like a rocket (what a mess). After probably 2 hours, I returned and quickly put a blow-off tube in, but without sanitizing the hose. This was 2 weeks ago. The beer is STILL fermenting although only bubbling into the water bath through the blow-off every 20 seconds or so. Second question, do you think the beer is OK with the exposure and the unsanitized blow-off tube??? Third, has anyone had this experience of really vigorous, long fermentation with this or other English Ale yeasts?? Never seen a Krausen head quite like this one!!! It has been 16 days since I pitched the yeast. Would you transfer to a secondary NOW??? I'm used to timing to racking to a secondary by watching an airlock rather than a blow-off tube. Advice??? Thanks... Drew Nix Frederick, MD drewmstr at erols.com Drewmeister drewmstr at erols.com http://www.erols.com/drewmstr/clave.html Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 11:02:27 -0500 From: Bob.Sutton at fluordaniel.com Subject: Yeast Purity - Dry vs. Liquid David Lamotte, Brewing Down Under in Newcastle, N.S.W. Australia ruminated: [QUOTE] The Purity Standards are listed as: Wild Yeast and Mold ; Negative in 10 ml suspension Bacteria ; < 1 cfu / ml Yeast Mutants; None detected So there it is - all our questions answered. Now if we only knew what '< 1cfu / ml' meant ... anyone got any ideas. [ENDQUOTE] cfu = Colony Forming Unit a.k.a. viable adventitious organism ml = milliliter (of course you knew that) What your data doesn't express. is how many viable desired yeast cells are in that ml sample to compare with the dry yeast data. Perhaps this is on the Wyeast site (sight, cite... ) - I haven't peaked. Bubbling over in Sawth Caroliner... Bob Fruit Fly Brewhaus Yesterdays' Technology Today Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 10:11:49 -0800 From: Dave Sapsis <DAVE_SAPSIS at fire.ca.gov> Subject: World Cup of Beer Well, Spring is around the corner (I hope) and that means it's time to gear up for NorCal's premier Springtime homebrew event, the 5th Annual World Cup of Beer, sponsored by the Bay Area Mashers. Again, World Cup is an MCAB qualifier, BJCP registered and AHA sanctioned. Of course there will also be a rockin' party at Golden Pacific Brewery in Berkeley following the final judging. Specifics: **Entries due 3/13 at either Oak Barrel Winecraft in Berkeley or the Englander Pub in San Leandro. **Prelim rounds the 20/21st, and Finals on the 27th. **Lots of good info on the webpage at http://www.bayareamashers.org/ or email the Competition Coordinator Bernie Roonie at oakbar1 at aol.com for more details. Interested Judges should contact the Judge Coord. Greg Griffin at griffin1842 at earthlink.net. Me??? I'm just doing the BBQ. Cheers, - --dave Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 13:36:10 -0500 From: ctopoleski at barents.com Subject: Simple Raspberry Wheat Recipe - Extract In HBD # 2932, Brian Morgan asks for a simple extract recipe for a raspberry wheat. I made this one as my third HB batch with two modifications. First, I changed the raspberries to blackberries. I used a can of the blackberries in the secondary and omitted the raspberry flavoring. Second, used whole hops instead of pellets, because I had the whole ones in my freezer. 6.6# M&F Wheat malt extract 1 oz. U.S. Hallertau (60 min) 1/2 oz. German Hallertau (5 min) 16 oz. can Oregon Fruit Products Raspberries in heavy syrup 4 oz. L.d. Carlson Raspberry flavoring Wyeast #3056 Bavarian Wheat yeast 3/4 cup corn sugar for bottling Prepare Wyeast in advance. In a brew kettle, bring 1 1/2 gallon water to a boil. Turn off the heat and add malt extracts, stirring until dissolved. Add U.S. Hallertau hops. With 5 minutes remaining of the 60 minute boil, add 1/2 oz German Hallertau hops. Cool quickly until the wort reaches 65-68 degrees. Pour the contents of the brew pot into a plastic fermenter. Add Raspberries from the can, syrup and all (can contents are pasteurized). (do NOT use a glass carboy for primary fermentation), top with cold water to 5 gallons, and seal the fermenter with an airlock. Pitch Wyeast and aerate. Fermentation should be completed within 7 to 10 days, or rack to secondary when primary fermentation has ended. When bottling, add raspberry flavoring to taste. Hope this helps. Chris Topoleski TwoCat Home Brewery Washington, DC Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 13:35:58 -0500 From: "Franklin.Tom" <frankli1 at niehs.nih.gov> Subject: Sanitizing Bottles & Aluminum Foil Hi All, I work in a research institute where the scientist use a variety of flasks and other glass containers/measuring devices. After the glass is cleaned (not necessarily sterilized) at an on-site central facility, aluminum foil is wrapped over the mouth of each flask. One of the Yeast (Genetics) scientists told me that this helps to keep bacteria out. Bacteria, he explained, likes to land in a straight line down and doesn't do so well going up and under things (like aluminum foil wrapped around the top of a flask). Out of curiosity, does anyone out there do this with bottles? I like brewing but I hate bottling. By the end of a day of sanitizing, rinsing, filling and capping bottles I'm sick of it all. If I could break that into two separate processes by a few days, that would be great. Many thanks, tom _________________________________________________ Tom Franklin TPMC Corporation Macintosh Computer Support Module/Floor D3&4; E4; F3 NIEHS Information Technology Support Services Contract Phone: (919) 541-4797; Room E-352 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 10:50:49 -0800 (PST) From: Scott Murman <smurman at best.com> Subject: whiskey or whisky While the topic of whiskey is in the air, does anyone know why there are two spellings - whisky and whiskey? -SM- single-malt snob Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 14:14:42 -0500 (EST) From: ALAN KEITH MEEKER <ameeker at welchlink.welch.jhu.edu> Subject: Correct Foam Terminology >>Dan Listerman asks if there's a scientific term for the collapse of foams.<< Yes there is. The precise technical term is: "phhhhhhhhtt" -Alan Meeker Baltimore Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 14:52:17 EST From: JPullum127 at aol.com Subject: millenium barleywine i made a batch of the aha barleywine monday using wyeast scotch ale yeast. wow i split the batch into 2 carboys since i heard it would have a ferocious ferment. they wern't kidding. carboy temp is steady at 64 and krausen is up to the neck of each carboy. o.g.=1.098. this is going to be good stuff new years eve. start planning your millenium party now. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 15:29:13 -0500 From: "Alan McKay" <amckay at nortelnetworks.com> Subject: RE: Humble Questions QUESTION 1 : Wort Concentration You generally want to boil as much water as possible. Too little water means too high a concentration of sugars, which can lead to darkening, and even burning (in extreme cases). Starting with 3 gallons, you might want to add some boiling water (from an electric kettle or smaller pot) from time to time to counteract this. It will have more positive effects than any possible negitives ones (can't think of any negative ones off-hand) QUESTION 2 : Hop Bags and Sediment The two are unconnected in my experience. The sediment you are seeing is called break material (hot break and cold break). See the Glossary at http://www.magma.ca/~bodnsatz/brew/tips/ for details. It's generally a good thing. BTW, "sparging" is not the right term for what you would be doing. I know it's the term that Papazian uses, but it's incorrect. There is no brewer-specific term for that. I used to use hop bags quite a lot with great success. Keep in mind that you'll probably get slightly lower utilization when using them. Other than that, the choice is yours. QUESTION 3 : Lager Yeast Making a starter is crucial with those smack packs. If your brew shop guy told you you didn't really have to make a starter, then he's not a very knowledgable person. If you are really fermenting this thing at Lager temperatures, then you especially need a starter, and an extra-large starter at that. If you are indeed fermenting this at lower temperatures, you are problably going to be in big trouble. If 60F to 70F, then you will likely be OK, but possibly not. In the future, make a starter (see the link I gave above). Not making a starter can cause the beer to take really long to ferment (generally a bad thing), and can cause it to finish too early at too high a gravity. Adding yeast nutrient can generally help there, and certainly couldn't hurt in your current situation. cheers, -Alan - -- Alan McKay Nortel Networks Norstar WinNT 613-765-6843 (ESN 395) amckay at nortelnetworks.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 14:48:34 -0600 From: Joe Callahan <fjc2947 at networksplus.net> Subject: Re: Boilover prevention In Reply to message below. This is my first post to this digest. Ever since I read this article from "Sun City Brewers Guild" "http://hbd.org/starcity/tips/boilover.html" I have been using four landscaping rocks I got from in front of the house. Presto-Chango, no more boilovers. It's a neat trick. I just thought I'd add what little knowledge I have. Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 18:22:15 -0500 From: "J. Matthew Saunders" <saunderm at vt.edu> Subject: Boil overs Collective, My last three brew sessions, I've been using a little widget my wife got for me to control boiling. To my astonishment (I was pretty skeptical, the thing looks a bit like a tin can lid), I've been able to leave the pot and do other things rather than worry if there was going to be a big mess all over the stove. Once again, last night I was able to rack beer in one room, while boiling in another and even catch a bit of TV. I think it was $2.50 plus tax and shipping. If any of you want details, send me an email. Cheers! Matthew. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 14:33:46 -0600 From: Lou.Heavner at frco.com Subject: re: Diacetyl rest From: Sean Murphy <smurphy at sdcoe.k12.ca.us> Subject: Diacetyl Rest info needed >Hi there, >I'm planning on brewing a Pale Lager in the Pils / Export style in >the >few weeks and I would like to do a diacetyl rest but am not sure of >the >exact time to do the rest. Miller's Homebrewing guide recommends >starting the rest when the wort is 2/3ds of the way through it's >fermentation. This much I understand, but do I conduct the rest in >my primary fermenter and transfer after the rest, or should I transfer at >the end of primary, into secondary and then do the diacetyl rest in the >secondary? Any info would be greatly appreciated. I ferment lagers in a fridge and secondary/lager in the fridge. But in between, I rack from plastic to glass. I probably wait longer than most to rack to secondary, typically sometime in the second week. The beer is naturally going to warm up some during transfer, so that is when I do my diacetyl rest (in the secondary fermenter, immediately after racking). I usually give it 2 days. I've never had anybody comment on diacetyl or buttery flavors. But then I can't say I have really noticed buttery flavors in beers I've had whether made commercially or at home. I can certainly taste the butter in popcorn, so I don't know what my sensory threshold is for diacetyl. Cheers! Lou Heavner - Austin, TX next brew: Albequerque Afterburner w/ homegrown jalapenos Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 14:45:46 -0600 From: hank bienert <hbienert at mailhost.tcs.tulane.edu> Subject: Cheap temp control for early stage of lagers Feeling the big challenge for the lager brewer is temp control in the first few weeks around 50 and living in New Orleans where 80 in winter can occur, I have flirted with 'son of chiller',and finally a second-hand frig.The frig. can not go above 41 unless modified by turning it off via a brewing thermostat or a timer,the first costing 50-60 bucks,close to the price of the frig.Also If one raises the frig temp too much the freezer gets too warm and defrosting sets in. BUT if one takes a frig and sets the thermostat warm as possible and the freezer as warm as possible, a freezer temp of 10-15 and a frig temp of 39-40 is achieved.Then place 8 sheets of the blue syrofoam insulation (usually yours for the taking at any construction site in the small sizes needed) on the top shelf.This will produce a 10 differential in the lower level of the frig,about 50 degrees.This is based on my frig and that of my neighbor but I believe any frig will produce the same results. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 15:50:29 -0600 From: Vachom <MVachow at newman.k12.la.us> Subject: Jeremy's humble questions I recommend purchase of a larger vessel for your brewing. No need to spend lots of scred. A good hardware store or mega-dry goods store will have a 7.5 gallon, enamel pot for around $25. A good rolling boil is important. I also recommend steeping your grains at mash temperatures instead of near boiling temps. Buy a dial top thermometer, and steep your crystal at 150F. About whole hops sediment: use a strainer to remove residual whole hops. Using a strainer solo is simply a matter of kitchen jerry-rigging some means of supporting the end of the strainer opposite the one being supported by the edge of your fermentation bucket. If you're using a carboy for fermentation, buy a funnel with a strainer built in. You got some seriously bad advice from your "local brewer." I'm guessing you mean your local brew supply shop owner. It's essential to let the yeast incubate. I think that you should go out and buy some dry yeast right away, stir it into a pint of clean water, let it sit a half hour and pitch it into your wort. I'd be highly suspect of any fermentation advice (maybe any brewing advice. . . .) this person might offer in the future. If it's a supply shop owner, and you have another shop in town, I'd suggest checking the other place out. Mike New Orleans, LA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 16:55:09 -0500 From: Dan Listermann <72723.1707 at compuserve.com> Subject: Nitrous Oxide Jeff Hall asks:<Has anyone tried using 'whip-its' Nitrous Oxide cartridges designed for making whipped cream to tap a 5 liter minikeg? I'm thinking of trying it on minikeg of stout ('bottle' conditioned). Would NO2 gas work in place of pure Nitrogen gas?> I asked the manufacturer of these cartridges this very question. He told me that CO2 forms carbonic acid as it passes through the bubbles. N2 is almost inert and cannot pass through the walls of a bubble this way so they last longer. NO2 forms nitric acid and acts in ways similar to CO2. I would have to say that NO2 is no substitute for N2. He did say that the nitric acid has a sweet taste?????????? Dan Listermann dan at listermann.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 14:14:18 -0800 From: Project One <project1 at pond.net> Subject: impossibly low barleywine OG?? Last Sunday, I got together with some friends to brew a barleywine for New Year's Eve. We ended up with an OG that seems impossibly low, and I can't figure out what we did wrong. Here's the story... OLD STONER BARLEYWINE - partial mash 3 lbs. 6 row 1 lb. Munich 1 lb. Crystal 11 lb. Munton light DME 6 oz. Magnum hops at 13.9 - boiling 1 oz. Chinook at 12.3 - 45 min. 1 oz. Chinook at 12.3 - 55 min. big cake of Wyeast 1056 from a pale ale bottled that morning Did infusion mash on the grains. got 2.5 gal. of 1.036 (yeah, lousy efficiency, but that's another message..I have several ideas what we did wrong). Added the dry malt & boiled for 75 min. w/ Magnums (about 4 gal. tot boil vol.). Followed standard procedure for the boil & hop additions, cooled, put in carboy w/ yeast cake, topped off to 5.5 gal. Stirred wildly for 5 min., then shook the crap out of the carboy to mix & aereate. So we measrued the OG and came up w/ 1.086!!! Seems impossible. Using the tables in Designing Great Beers, it looks like we should have gotten 99 pts. from the DME alone (45 pts/lb/gal * 11 lb / 5 gal =99 pts. right??). Checked the grav again yesterday to nmake sure that we hadn't screwed up the measurement. and it was 1.069, which seems in line w/ the 1.086 OG (we got fermentation starting in about 20 min. using the yeast cake, so at least SOMETHING went right!!) So the questions are: 1.) How could this happen??? 2.) we thought that when we put it in secondary, we'd add more yeast and a couple more lbs. of DME (boiled up of course) to try to increase the gravity. Think this'll work?? I look forward to any ideas anyone here may have...I'm completely stumped!!! Thanks, ----------->Denny Conn Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 16:36:38 -0600 From: "Humphrey,Patrick" <patrick.humphrey at abbott.com> Subject: Re: Boil Overs Matthew commented on a little widget to prevent boilovers... >My last three brew sessions, I've been using a little widget my wife got >for me to control boiling. To my astonishment (I was pretty skeptical, the >thing looks a bit like a tin can lid), I've been able to leave the pot and >do other things rather than worry if there was going to be a big mess all >over the stove. Something I use to control boilovers are 5-6 small pea-sized pieces of granite. They work very well and you can make them by breaking up a small granite stone with a hammer. I boiled mine in some water to clean them and then tossed them in the kettle during heating They give a very smooth boil. The only problem I have is fishing them out of the sludge after I have transferred my boiled wort to the fermenter. I imagine that pea gravel will also work fine but the rough edges of the broken stone help as nucleation points for the boil. In the lab we call these boiling chips or "boileezers". They can be made of silica glass, carbon or even teflon. Rocks are fine for me. Pat Humphrey Lake Villa, IL Return to table of contents
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