HOMEBREW Digest #2970 Fri 05 March 1999

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  re: O2 source & Valves ("C.D. Pritchard")
  Listerling, Schmidmann and their mills (Jack Schmidling)
  Re: Oatmeal stout recipes (Jeff Renner)
  Fermentor Geometry and Attenuation ("Sieja, Edward M")
  The Burton Union (Rod Prather)
  Barley Wine or Belgian Strong Ale? (Joy Hansen)
  Re: More on simple temps/tuns ("Jim Busch")
  Re: Infusion Mashing (Joel Plutchak)
  pH meters and SINK Holes ("John S. Thomas")
  Yeast Viability Tests: MBLUE, GUTSTEIN, SLIDE CULTURE TECHNIQUE, and other methods (Joe Rolfe)
   (Kevin Basso)
  Infusion Mashing Formulas (John Varady)
  BurtonUnion Device ("MrWES")
  leaky Gott cooler (Lou.Heavner)
  Acid levels in wit...let's make this easy (Nathan Kanous)
  North Coast Brewing Rasputin Imperial Stout ? ("Frederick L. Pauly")
  1999 AHA National Homebrew Competition ("Steven Lichtenberg")
  Mail order homebrew shop survey (Steve Potter)
  Vinometer (AJ)
  Aircraft Cargo Pressures (Jim Bentson)
  Long Wit ferementation / Inexpensive H20 filter (Manbeck, Brad J.)" <BJM at roisysinc.com>
  Specific Gravity Question ("Gradh O'Dunadaig")
  For Publication Only (RCAYOT)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 03 Mar 1999 18:13:46 From: "C.D. Pritchard" <cdp at chattanooga.net> Subject: re: O2 source & Valves The ~$40 BenzoMatic O2\propane torch rig makes a nice O2 source for wort oxygenation plus you've also got a high output (but costly to operate) torch. I use regular 1/8" ID aquarium tubing from the airstone and adapt it to the tapered torch tip with a bit of 5/16" OD, 3/16" ID vinyl tubing. I don't know if it's really necessary, but I blowout the torch's tubing and tip before connecting the vinyl tubing. - - - - - There's been traffic on the "best" type of valves and sanitation thereof. I like those larger nylon clamp type valves that fit over vinyl tubing. They're cheap, you can roughly throttle the flow and sanitation isn't an issue. For much finer flow throttling (but marginal for shut-off purposes), American Science and Surplus (www.sciplus.com) has a nice "thumb-screw" type gizmo just for the purpose (cat. # 88189 at 2 for $3.50). For really cheap, I've used vise grips as well as a crimp in the tubing secured with the ever popular "baling wire". Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 1999 21:55:54 -0800 From: Jack Schmidling <arf at mc.net> Subject: Listerling, Schmidmann and their mills "David C. Harsh" <David.Harsh at uc.edu> "So, the question is directed to George Fix: How did you do this... Not sure George bothers reading this anymore but the last time he was asked, he said the he ran it through the mill twice but I do not recall how it was set up. It was also one of the very early mills and may not represent the current behavior at all. In case you missed it, Zymurgy's "Roll out the Mills" article concluded that the best crush of all mills was by running through a fixed mill twice. They also use an older mill but not the same vintage as Fix. " What spacings did you use on the tested mill, what grain did you use, and at what rate did you grind the grain? Also, how did you analyze the size fraction? Give some details please. Aside from the spacing, I believe all the other points are covered on the published report. "What I do know is that single pass through a hand-cranked MaltMill with the settings that Jack describes will not produce the results under discussion here... Not sure what the "results under discussion here" really means. "Just as long as you go away, we'll be happy... ;) Best way to achieve that is to get people to stop buying our wonderful product. "Remember the start of this discussion was the QDA claim that using the distribution listed in the Practical Brewer will result in better homebrew..... Not sure what a QDA is but I believe this discussion started by someone asking the absurd question "is the Schmidling mill as good as good as 6 roller commercial mill?" "This so-called IDEAL DISTRIBUTION is irrelevant to homebrewing except as a very general guidline..... I couldn't agree more and have said so many times. It's those nice folks who get paid or ego gratification for saying clever things about beer that keep this topic alive. I just provide a little balance. "One other comment about Jack's ad: It claims that grain is actually milled across the entire length of the roller. The hopper design prevents more than the center 50% from being used and if you motorize, the effective roller length is reduced even more.... This is simply untrue and all you need do is look at the rollers after milling a batch. The dust and fines cover the entire roller although concentrated in the center. The faster the rollers turn the more roller length gets used. " Jack has in the past claimed that the non-adjustable mill works similarly to the adjustable one and this is probably why. Don't believe I ever said that. I have said in essence, that the fixed mill works well enough that I see no real need for an adjustable one. It only works "sililarly" to the adjustable mill if said mill is adjusted like a fixed one. You can get a very wide variation in the grist distribution by adjusting it but I have never found that to improve the beer in any way. js - -- Visit our WEB pages: http://user.mc.net/arf ASTROPHOTO OF THE WEEK..... New Every Monday Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 09:13:12 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Oatmeal stout recipes "Ratkiewich, Peter" <PRATKIEWICH at ci.westport.ct.us> asks for oatmeal stout recipes. Peter, I hope you'll consider using oat malt for one of your two 15 gallon batches. This would be a great chance to compare malted oats with rolled oats. I just posted the outline of Maclay's Oat Malt Stout the other day - 70% Maris Otter pale malt, 22% malted oats, 6% roast barley, 2% chocolate malt, whole Fuggles, 35 IBU. This is moe bitter than a typical oatmeal stout, but it works for Maclay. As I have mentioned here, I really like the silky, oily mouthfeel that malted oats seems to give. If you order malted oats now from North Country Malt in upstate NY, you ought to be able to get it in time for your brew. If you do this, please post your results. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 08:30:34 -0600 From: "Sieja, Edward M" <EMSieja at ingr.com> Subject: Fermentor Geometry and Attenuation I have noticed an interesting phenomenon with my last few batches. I typically brew so that I can collect about 11 gallons of wort. I used to ferment in a pseudo-open style in a 20gal Rubbermaid Brute trash can and had great results with my house brew -- an American Pale Ale. I now have a toddler, so for safety I have gone to splitting the batch into a 5 gal (10.5 inch OD) carboy and a 6.5 gal (12 inch OD) carboy with glass blowoff tubes. This houses the volume perfectly with enough room for proper blowoff. The levels in the carboys are about the same (within an inch anyway). I step up a large starter from a 1056 (Chico) culture. The yeast is divided equally between the two carboys, and I typically do a single-stage fermentation for this ale just to save time. Original gravity is between 1.054 and 1.056 with heavy use of Cascade pellet hops. Lag time is less than 6 hours. Grain Bill: 20 lbs 2-row 1.5 lbs Crystal 60L 1 lb Carapils So here's the main question - after fermentation is complete (usually between 8 to 12 days) I keg the beer. The smaller carboy always seems to finish at an SG of 1.012 while the larger finishes at an SG of 1.006. My old open fermentations always measured at an SG of 1.006 with the same mash schedule. I typically mash with a single infusion at 154F->152F for 60 to 75 minutes. I know that a higher temperature mash schedule would produce a less fermentable wort and have tried that on occasion, but is not what I'm asking. Is the result simply the effect of the surface area that the fermentor presents? Is there any published data on optimal sizes? Note that both end results are fine -- however I typically like the mouthfeel and body of the smaller batch with the higher finishing gravity. Ed Sieja Bandit Brewing in 'bama Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 09:45:24 -0500 From: Rod Prather <rodpr at iquest.net> Subject: The Burton Union The burton union seem like it might be a great product. The pictures were non existant and leaves me wondering just what the Burton Union acutally is. Except perhaps the first night after Richard and Liz's wedding. Don't think you'd want to publish that either. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 09:53:38 -0500 From: joytbrew at halifax.com (Joy Hansen) Subject: Barley Wine or Belgian Strong Ale? >John Wilkinson wrote: >> >>From: John.Wilkinson at aud.alcatel.com (John Wilkinson) >>Subject: Barley wine > > >>". . .I have only had Big Foot and Old Foghorn and much prefer the Big >Foot. >>. . . . I wonder what OG is necessary to get the maltiness of Big Foot >and what IBU >rate to offset the sweetness? I have looked in the HBD >archives and have found no >recipes purporting to be similar to Big Foot. >I have thought of using Rob M.'s recipe >for 10/20 as its low FG would seem >to promise not too much sweetness. I tried Phil >Wilcox's version of that >at the MCAB and found it quite good. . . . . . >>similar to Big Foot? Also, I have a sizeable yeast cake of 1056 under a >>fermenting beer and thought of using that but I notice that Rob called for >an >>English ale yeast and used Nottingham. > >> Would the 1056 be good for the type barley wine I am looking for or >>should I go ahead and use Nottingham? John Wilkinson - Grapevine, Texas" > > >Hi John, > >I have a pseudo barley wine in a secondary sitting right next to the >computer (a warn place). I over boiled the brew and the IPA ended up at >107, aka barley wine! Munton's yeast really kicks a$$ and drops the SG like >mad, in a short time. I'm confident that the high hop rate I used and the >ester production in this pseudo barley wine will result in a great brew. > >Like you, I've tried commercial barley wines via bottle and brew pub. The >hop bitterness between Old Fog Horn and Big Foot is more to my liking. The >best example for me was the Arlington, VA Bardo Rodeo's (now closed) "White >Lightening". For my brewing, I tend to brew the highest gravity I can >muster (mistake or not); preferring, to let the commercial brewers produce >the ho-hum to style brews. The ho-hum stuff is enjoyable, but boring. > >One barley wine I brewed with 1056 and finished with champaign yeast took a >first in the strong ales category and third best of show. Mr. Murphy, aka >Murphy's Law, was with me for the entire brewing/maturing process (1 1/2 >years). Just to let you know that I brew barley wines. A more recent >Strong Scotch Ale weighed in with a 10+ % by vol using Wyeast 1728 (Scottish >Ale). > >IMHO, most examples of commercial barley wine are intended to be drunk >early, such as Old Fog Horn. Big foot seems to take three or four years to >mellow. Some Scandinavian brews seem never to mature! Also, I doubt that >there are meaningful style quides to brew to except to avoid defects; such >as, fusel, cloying sweetness, warm haze, and over use of specialty malts, >etc. > >Given the difficult task you chosen to undertake, I suggest that you attempt >a Belgian Strong Ale! Using Wyeast 1388 (tolerates high alcohol) and gives >the brew a striking citrus like flavor, a wonderful malt flavor, and the >brew can be dry. I prime this brew with honey and the complexity sometimes >overwhelms me. I don't add orange or coriander! The yeast and honey >provides all the flavor I like. I think Wyeast 3944 has a unique, but >typical Belgian flavor and I sometimes start a brew with this yeast and >finish with the 1388. I DO NOT BREW TO STYLE. So, I mash to the limit of >my mash tun and limit the sparge runoff. Then, I boil for up to three hours >to adjust the gravity. I add sucrose to bring the final wort gravity to >110. These finish in the range 30 to 45, depending on the mash schedule and >type of yeast, and Mr. Murphy! If you do all grain, spend a lot of time at >the 142 degree saccharification temperature and don't use any specialty >dextrin malts. (the same is true for barley wine) > >With regard to using 1056 for a barley wine, it's much too clean for my >taste. It can produce winning brews if the objective is to brew to the >latest commercial whim. However, other yeast produce more interesting and >unique flavor. Since these brews will last for up to 20 years in the >bottle, wouldn't it be nice to have many barley wines and each unique? >These are not session brews. They are to be enjoyed like a fine aperitif in >small quantities. Searching each for special attributes and savoring the un >ique complexity of YOUR brew, be it Strong Belgian Ale or Barley Wine is >exquiset relaxation. Uhmmm, I wonder what oxidation will lead to in my next >session with a barley wine of strong belgian ale? > >Unfortunately, home brewing high gravity beer is a lot like brewing wine. >You really don't know the goodness of the brew until it's been down for one >or more years. So, start early and put a lot of it down for the future. > >Prost, > > Joy"T"Brew > >IMHO, use a yeast with a high alcohol tolerance and produce a huge starter! > > > Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 10:45:14 +0000 From: "Jim Busch" <jim at victorybeer.com> Subject: Re: More on simple temps/tuns I probably never should of bothered with this subject but Daves response has clarified his reasoning so maybe I should do the same with mine. < I will spend <a little of my currently precious time ( getting ready to move) <to expand it a little. Dave, I dont mean to rag on you but you post 3 times to the digest in one day, one post is a dumb Bud joke and the other is a total nit on George regarding a typo for crissakes! Precious time, really! That said, most of the rest of the digest had some excellent content, good job guys! <Jim Busch comments on my suggestion to use 180F water <to infuse to 155F. I know that C. Papazian and Jim Busch <suggest the use of 165-168F liquor as the strike heat in Hummm, Im not sure if I should be offended by the above or take it as some kind of validation of my point....also note that I didnt advise aiming for 155 either, 152 is probably a better temp for a single infusion mash as it will still favor some degree of beta amylase activity. (and with Daves 11% Caramel malt you dont want to mash as high as 155 either unless one wants a beer that finishes at 4P or more!). <V(H2O) = {0.22 * (155-65)/ ( 170 - 155) = 1.32 quart/lbs This equation seems to support my point exactly, I desire about 1.25-1.3 Qts/lb in most of my mashes. I would use 163-5 water to get to 152. Also remember it is much more desirable to undershoot the mash temp and adjust up with boiling water rather than overshoot and attempt to cool down. <The heat sink of many mash tuns have a heat capacity <equivalent to a pound or more of grain. This explains a lot of Daves reasoning here. I dont account for this at all because of my methods. I have a SS mash tun, I add hot water to this tun, I measure the temp of the water in the tun. This is the actual strike temp of the water I am assuming, no losses as the tun is already heated. If you prefer another method, rinse hot water in your tun and allow to drain (this is what I also do with my lauter tun prior to adding foundation water so I dont lose more heat). Then the heat capacity of the tun is a non issue. It never occured to me that one would place hot mash water in a cold tun! Also Im not one of those who likes to add water to grain, I add water first and then grain to that. Never did understand Noonans insistance on the converse methods and it sure doesnt have any negative effect on my beers or extract. Just stir so you dont get starch balls. Cheers, Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 09:39:40 -0600 (CST) From: Joel Plutchak <plutchak at ncsa.uiuc.edu> Subject: Re: Infusion Mashing In HBD #2969, Dave Burley... ...takes issue with Jim Busch's strike temperature recommendation of 165-168 degress F. As another extremely uncontrolled data point, I typically use a strike temperature no higher than 168 degrees F., to reach mash temperatures ranging from 150 to 157, with grist/water ratios raging from 1.0 to 1.33 quarts per pound. This has remained consistent over about 35 batches in the last three years, and I usually hit my mash temp very well these days. I suspect the mash tun *and* heat source specifics have more to do with this than confirmed "intermediate forever" brewers like myself would think. In my case, I heat on an electric stove using a 5- or 8-gallon canning pot, and ususally the pot stays on the heating element (stove off) while mashing in. I would guess if you have a different type of vessel and a heat source where off *means* off, the 180 degree recommendation may hold. However, for those first-time all-grainers Dave was addressing, I suspect more of them use a set-up like mine than use, e.g., coolers and cajun cookers. My bottom line when starting all-grain was that it was easier, and as I understood it less potentially harmful to the mash, for me to undershoot a bit and add direct heat than to overshoot and have to worry about "stirring down" the mash or having cold, filtered water on hand. (Does that make any sense?) - -- Joel Plutchak A morning's drive south-southwest of Jeff Renner, in Flatlandia IL. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 07:55:44 -0800 From: "John S. Thomas" <jthomas at iinet.com> Subject: pH meters and SINK Holes Ronald LaBorde, ph meters and SINK HOLES for money. Meters of any kind can be a sink holes for money and so can all fun hobbies. Such is life. My disclaimer - I sell meters and brewing equipment. I am also a salesman and have been for longer than I can remember. I have an axe to grind - so be careful. But to the problem of why the short life of pH meters. A $35 pH meter is a throw a way meter. It is not design for long life. A top quality meter will cost upwards of $100 and much much more. If you want accuracy (ph .01) start at $150. Also look for one with a replaceable probe. If you want to extend the life of the pH probe use it at ambient temperature only. Never stick it into the hot mash. Remove a sample of wort let it cool then measure the pH. Use the manufactures rinse solution and storage solution when finished. The probe tip must stay wet while stored. The pH electrode's life also depends on the temperature. If constantly used at high temperatures, the electrode life is drastically reduced. The higher the range of temperature, shorter the life of the electrode. Typical Electrode Life Ambient Temperature 1- 3 years 90 degrees C (164F) less than 4 months 120 degrees C (248F) Less than 1 month There is a company in San Diego that manufactures pH meters for use at = high temperatures in food processing. They start at $1,000 for the = probe only. Expected life three years. Ron, Does pH meter use really improve the beer? And does it improve = consistency? Maybe these questions need to be answered first. =20 John S. Thomas Hobby Beverage Equipment Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 11:14:10 -0500 From: Joe Rolfe <rolfe at sky.sky.com> Subject: Yeast Viability Tests: MBLUE, GUTSTEIN, SLIDE CULTURE TECHNIQUE, and other methods I found some of my articles on the MBLUE and one I had been looking for to give Dave Whitman for his viability/storage tests... >From my recently found Siebels materials from the 2 week Microbiology Course (excel course btw): MBLUE - will also stain newly formed buds giving false readings. - mostly used for estimates of > 80% viable slurry - used to monitor trends of viability for commercial brewing this works out well, the breweries tend to repitch quickly and in most cases the repitch if less than 90% viable wount be used. this does not work well for homebrewing as we typically only brew at most once a week if that. A couple of recipes for MBLUE .1gr Mblue (dry I assume) in 100ml distilled water take 10ml of this stock solution and disolve .2gr Sodium Citrate dihydrate add 90ml distilled water, store in amber bottle for less than 6 months Fink Kuhles SOLUTION A: MBLUE .1gr/500ml SOLUTION B: KH2PO4 13.6gr/500ml SOLUTION C: Na2HPO4 2.4gr/100ml Mix 498.75ml SOL B with 1.25ml SOL C then add this to SOL A ph 4.6 of final should be 4.6 Examine cells after 1- 5 min Some REF material for this MBLUE - none of which I have seen other than ASBC Methods so here is another QDA: ASBC - Methods Manual, Report on Subcommitee on Yeast Exams (no date), Proceedings 1946 pg 126 Brewers Digest 18(9):45 1943 Wallerstien Labs Coummnucations 6:198 1943 Chilver Harrison and Webb ASBC 36:13 1978 EBC Yeast Group JIOB 68:14 1968 Fink, Kuhles Phys Chemistry 65:218 1933 IOB Recommended Methods of Analysis 1977 Pierce JIOB 76:442 1970 A much better but more complex and time consuming manner GUTSTEIN STAIN 1% MBLUE 5% Tannic Acid 1% Safranin O mix all in distilled water in sep bottles smear slide with slurry and dry fix cells - carefully on flame Stain with MBLUE 4 minutes and rinse 30 sec Stain with Tannic 2 minutes and rinse 30 sec Stain with Safranin 1 minute and rinse 30 sec Dry slide Observe under oil immersion w/o slide cover The more red - the worse the condition The more blue (yep blue) - the better the condition you will no doubt see a rain bow of colors in the shades of blue and red ****Dave Whitman - heads up this is for you - I found it finally..... SLIDE CULTURE TECHNIQUE 1) With forceps, heat a slide over flame 2) Spread to a thin layer 1ml molten MYPG (or wort agar should do fine - I used this without trouble) 3) After agar has become solid, place 2 drops of dilute yeast slurry 1 cell/ml, this is pretty tough - you dont what a crowd of yeast on the slide - min separation 4-10x diameter apart 4) Check slide at 100x (200- 250x recommended) for over crowding 5) Place in petri dish cover and incubate at 20-22C for no longer than 18 hrs. 6) Examine under 100x (200-250x recommended) Count about 500 (colony growth or none) do the math and your done. Some others for folks with access to nice labs Use of Phase Contrast Scopes - nice for examining the guts of cells Epifluorescent Stains Acidine Orange Mg 1,8 ANS clueless/never used or seen used but the doc states they are very accurate and fast. Impedence - for inline testing - nice if your A/B or Miller - very expensive hardware This would be great for hard piped transfers to the yeast storage rooms. If it passed the test proceed to yeast brink other wise - discard - all on the fly. Enuff - got to do work Good Luck and Great Brewing Joe Rolfe Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 17:04:54 -0500 From: Kevin Basso <KevinB at AWSPERRY.COM> Subject: Brewers East End Revival 1999 Brew-Off Homebrew Competition April 24, 1999 Welcome to the 3rd annual B.E.E.R. homebrew competition! We are happy to be hosting an AHA-BJCP sanctioned competition on Long Island and look forward to seeing some friends from the past as well as many new brewers at the event. The Brew-Off will be held on April 24th at the Nesconset Knights of Columbus, with judge and steward registration at 9:30 a.m. First round judging will start at 10 a.m. in a closed session. Best of Show judging will begin at 4 p.m. and will be open to the public. Medals, certificates and prizes will be awarded to the winners, and a special BREWMASTER'S CUP award for a beer chosen to be brewed at John Harvard's Brewhouse in Lake Grove. The Official Brew-Off Rules and Regulations 1. This AHA-BJCP sanctioned competition is open to all homebrewers. Beers entered must be brewed at home. NO commercially produced beer will be accepted. 2. All 28 AHA beer categories and sub-categories will be accepted including mead and cider. Categories will be collapsed at the discretion of the competition organizer. 3. Brewers may enter any category as often as they like as long as the entries are from different recipes. 4. All entries must be accompanied by a recipe entry form. Entry fees are $5.00 per entry. All entries over 10 will be accepted free of charge! Please make checks payable to: Brewers East End Revival. If you are mailing the entries, include the recipe entry forms and the check together in a zip-lock bag. Three bottles are required per entry. Bottles must be 7 - 25 ounces in volume, brown or green glass, and free of any painted brand name lettering. Grolsch style bottles and PET bottle with carbonators are acceptable. Bottle caps must be tree from graphics or blacked out with a permanent marker. A bottle entry label must be attached with rubber bands to each bottle entered. Do not use glue or tape! Any entry not meeting these requirements will be disqualified. Disqualified entries will be judged but not eligible for any awards. 6. Entries are due by April 19. They may be brought to a B.E.E.R. club meeting or dropped off at the following location: Brewers Den; Brews Brothers at KEDCO, or Karps Homebrew. Entries may be shipped UPS to 46 Watchogue Ave. East Moriches, NY 11940 ATTN : Chris Pranis Carefully pack entries in a sturdy box. Line the inside of the box with a plastic bag. Partition and pack each bottle with adequate packaging material. It is legal to send beer for evaluation. To avoid questions from UPS, identify contents as non-perishable food. Please note: ENTRIES WILL NOT BE ACCEPTED THE DAY OF THE COMPETITION! . No exceptions will be made. 7. If you would like your score sheets returned, please include a self addressed stamped envelope. One SASE per three entries should be sufficient. 8. For further information pertaining to rules, regulations, entry requirements and style guidelines, see the Winter issue of ZYMURGY. Also check out aha at aob.org; http://beertown.org. 9. Judges and stewards are needed. If you are a BJCP judge or would like to help steward in this competition, please contact: Pete Algerio at (516) 924-2554 (Judge Director) or Chris Pranis at (516) 878-2091, or you can email the club at MikeBEER at aol.com. Lunch and plenty of homebrew will be available to all participating judges and stewards. Also, at the open session of Best of Show, fresh homebrew will be available to all B.E.E.R. members. The Third Annual B.E.E.R. Brew-off will be held at the Nesconset Knights of Columbus Hall, 130 Lake Ave., South Nesconset, Long Island. 10. A Chili Cook-off will be held after the Best of Show round. For more information about the Chili Cook-off please contact Shawn Bosch at (516) 929-6989. Directions to the Nesconset Knights of Columbus hall: Take the Northern State Parkway to the end. Staying in the left lane through Hauppauge, take the left fork onto Route 347 (Approximately 2 miles from the end of the parkway.) About3 miles from this junction, Southern Boulevard crosses Route 347. Take the following left onto Lake Avenue. The hall is on your left about 1/10 of a mile up. Enter early, enter often, and come on down for fun and homebrew at 4 p.m. on April 24th. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 11:36:46 -0500 (EST) From: John Varady <rust1d at usa.net> Subject: Infusion Mashing Formulas David Burley gives his thoughts on calculating strike water temps and shows us a formula where he expresses the heat capacity of malt as being equivalent to .22 quarts of water for each pound of grain and gives the following equation: > V(H2O added) = {(0.22W(grist) + V (water present in mash)) > X delT of mash}/(delT water added) In the formulas I've seen, the capacity of malt is expressed as an equivalent mass of water, not volume. If you convert Dave's .22 quarts/pound to pounds/pounds (truly dimensionless), you have about .458 (8.33/4 * .22) . This means that 1 pound of grain is equal to .458 pounds of water, or 1 kg grain is equivalent to .458 kg water. I have seen values for the heat capacity of malt listed as low as .32 (by Kelly Jones, HBD #1207) to as much as .40 (by KennyEddy, HBD #1953). In fact, let me quote Kenny here (from HBD #1953): >The "water equivalent" (W.E.) is the amount of water whose heat capacity is >equivalent to that of a given amount of grain (based on specific heat of >grain being 0.4) and is calculated like this: > >W.E. = 0.0479 * Wg gallons > = 0.192 * Wg quarts > = 0.4 * Mg liters > >Example: 20 kg of grain has the same heat capacity as 0.4 * 20 = 8 liters of >water. (since 1 liter = 1 kg it is very convenient to use metric in the following formulas) It seems to me that your value of .458 is much higher than the other values I have seen. Now, we'll use the following formula to calculate some values: Ma = (Hcm*Mm+Mw)*(Tf-Tm)/(Tw-Tf) Where: Ma = required mass of water to infuse Hcm = heat capacity of malt Mm = mass of malt Mw = mass of water already in mash Tf = final temperature desired Tm = current temperature of the mash Tw = temperature of infusion water added Using your numbers; grain temp = 65, final temp = 155, added temp = 165, malt heat capacity = .458, water already in mash = 0, 1 pound of grain: (.458*1)*(155-65)/(165-155) = 4.122 lbs of water needed converting lbs to quarts yields: (4.122/8.33*4) = 1.98, just like you stated in your formula: >V(H2O) = {0.22 * (155-65)/(165 - 155) = 1.98 quarts/lb So, let's do the same scenario, but assume that the heat cap of malt is .4: (.4*1)*(155-65)/(165-155) = 3.6 lbs of water needed converting lbs to quarts yields: (3.6/8.33*4) = 1.72 quarts/lb Let's do the formula once more, but use 168F as our strike water temp: (.4*1)*(155-65)/(168-155) = 2.77 lbs of water needed converting lbs to quarts yields: (2.77/8.33*4) = 1.32 quarts/lb. Now, let's go back to Jim Busch's post: >Dave suggests: ><buy 8 pounds of pale *ale* malt, 1 pound of crystal malt have ><it milled. Wet it down in your mash tun with hot water ( 180F) ><stirring until you get it to 155F. Try to add about 1.5 quarts per ><pound. If you see that you are not going to make it, finish the last ><additions with boiling water and lots of stirring or heat ><separately. Mix in gypsum ( calcium sulfate) 1/2 tsp at a >This caught my eye as it sounds confusing and could easily overshoot >the desired strike temp. Here is my advice: >Add 1.3 Qt/pound of 165F to the mash tun. Add gypsum. Stir in malt. >Check temp, I would advise aiming for 149-152F. Id be surprised if a >drop of 25F is achieved with Daves program unless the malt is kept in >a very cold place. Dave's suggestion of using 1.5 quarts (or 3.1 lbs) of 180F water per lb of grain to hit 155F would yield: Tf = (Hc1*M1*T1 + Hc2*M2*T2)/(Hc1*M1+Hc2*M2) Where: Tf = final temperature Hc1 = heat capacity of first mass (malt = .4) M1 = weight of first mass T1 = current temperature of first mass Hc2 = heat capacity of second mass (water = 1) M2 = weight of second mass T2 = current temperature of second mass (.4*1*65 + 1*3.1*180)/(.4*1+1*3.1) = 167F Ut-oh! This is way over the 152F mash in temp Jim was suggesting, or even the 155F Dave was hoping to hit! Now, Let's look at what Jim was suggesting, using 1.3 qts (2.71 lbs) of 165F water per pound of grain to hit 152F: (.4*1*65 + 1*2.71*165)/(.4*1+1*2.71) = 152F Good job Jim! Of course, these equations are based on no temperature drop being caused by the mash vessel. Why did I go into this in such detail?? Because I hate to see statements like this made in the HBD: >Enough said on this subject. I guess not, huh? We'll see. For a comprehensive listing of the various formulas required to do infusion and decoction mashing, please refer to my web page listed below. It explains how the mash temp calculator of my home brewing software works and provides formulas to back up those calculations. http://www.netaxs.com/people/vectorsys/varady/hbmash.htm I hope this post is useful to someone and apologize for it's length. Mashing With Math, John - -- John Varady The HomeBrew Recipe Calculating Program Boneyard Brewing Custom Neon Beer Signs For Home Brewers Glenside, PA Get More Information At: rust1d at usa.net http://www.netaxs.com/~vectorsys/varady Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 11:02:21 -0600 From: "MrWES" <killshot at enteract.com> Subject: BurtonUnion Device RE: Homebrew Digest #2969 (March 04, 1999) The following URL http://bullwinkle.gardnerweb.com/Beer/burtonunion.html shows a blow over during fermentation and the need for either a blow off hose or other device. The picture doesn't mention whether or not this is a primary fermenter or secondary, but from the high krausen I figured it was a primary. Question: Why use a 5 gal carboy for a primary? No wonder you're loosing brew, try using a 6 or 6.5 gal carboy and I bet you'll solve most of you brew lost. Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 10:53:58 -0600 From: Lou.Heavner at frco.com Subject: leaky Gott cooler From: "Jeff Beinhaur" <beinhaur at email.msn.com> {snip} Today's question: Any suggestions for replacing the washers on the faucets for the Gott coolers. My coolers are fairly new and they always seem to leak around the faucet. I've tried to tighten them but this seems to only make it worse. I guess I could try to just replace with like washers but I wonder if anyone has a better idea. Thanks in advance. Jeff Beinhaur, Camp Hill, PA Home of the Yellow Breeches Brewery Jeff, I just use a 1-hole stopper with copper tubing through the hole. Push the stopper in place from the inside, of course. On my mash/lauter tun, the copper tubing snugs up to the hose barb on my phil's phloater. On my hot liquor tank, the tubing just bends down to touch the bottom to maximize draining. On the outlet sides, the tubing is connected to my valves with compression fittings. Easy to assemble and disassemble and easy to clean. It's cheap and it has never leaked during a brew session, even when I once got a stuck lauter and had to underlet hot water several times. Regards, Lou Heavner - Austin, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 11:36:55 -0600 From: Nathan Kanous <nlkanous at pharmacy.wisc.edu> Subject: Acid levels in wit...let's make this easy OK. Heres the deal. I want to make a wit with a touch of acidity. In AlK's great book (you know the one) the listings of Head Start Brewing Cultures indicates that some of their lactobacillus cultures can be used post-fermentation to sour wit beers and berliner weisse ("instructions included"). Now, Head Start is not currently selling cultures. Al doesn't know how their directions tell you to do this, he just published the information they provided. I haven't been successful in tracking down the owner of Head Start. I know where he is, but he's busy and acidifying MY wit beer isn't high on his priority list. This I understand and respect. So, you folks out there in HBD land...anybody know how much lactose should be added to 5 gallons of wit beer to achieve a "desireable" level of acidity after fermentation and innoculation with lactobacilli? thanks...I should've asked my question more directly the first time. nathan in madison, wi Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 13:15:44 -0500 From: "Frederick L. Pauly" <flp2m at avery.med.virginia.edu> Subject: North Coast Brewing Rasputin Imperial Stout ? Has anyone had any success duplicating this brew? Any ideas on how to go about it? All I know is that it is rich,strong and wonderfull with an ABV of 8.9% Thanks for any help, Rick Pauly Charlottesville,VA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 13:28:50 -0500 From: "Steven Lichtenberg" <slichten at pci-net.com> Subject: 1999 AHA National Homebrew Competition In today's HBD Paul Gatza sent notification about the 1999 AHA National competition. While this is a worthy endeavor and I did have fun while judging the 1997!!! regional competition (NE region), I was just wondering if anyone has EVER gotten the issue straight with getting judge points for that competition (2 YEARS AGO!!!) with the BJCP. I know that myself and many others are still so soured on the AHA's inability to get the paper work straight that it will be a LOOOOOONG time before I will consider judging another event like this. (Too bad, since I did have fun doing it). Doesn't seem like a difficult thing to do to just get the record keeping straight. - --S ^ BJCP Certified _______________________________________ Steven Lichtenberg Progressive Consultants, Inc. "Your Progress is Our Business" E-Mail: slichten at pci-net.com Tel: (703) 790-9316 Fax: (703) 790-9248 ________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 12:31:46 -0600 From: Steve Potter <spotter at meriter.com> Subject: Mail order homebrew shop survey Dear collective, At long last, the results of the homebrew shop survey are in. To see them, go to http://hbd.org/1stdraft Select the links page and then select the "Folks with stuff to sell" category. The survey is entitled "The great mail order survey." Thanks for your patience and participation. Steve Madison, Wisconsin Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 14:32:53 -0500 From: AJ <ajdel at mindspring.com> Subject: Vinometer Jeff Luck asks whether a vinometer would work with beer. Why don't you try it and see (and, of course, let us know what you find out)? The potential problems you might run into are related to the strength of wine and the protein/sugar content of beer. The instrument may not respond accurately at the 4-6% alcohol levels of beer as opposed to the say, 9 - 15% levels found in wine. How low does the scale go? Second, the device works on a "colligative" propertiy of the solution i.e. the surface tension which depends on all the things dissolved in the solution. Beer contains quite a bit of protein and residual extract- sufficient to raise the boiling point of beer to the extent that correction is required in ebulliometry (boiling point being another colligative property). Wine, of course, contains things other than alcohol and water as well but they are different other things from those found in beer. Thus the device might not appear to work at first with beer but might be made workable with a simple correction for true extract. Jeff worries about protein buildup in the capillary and I think he is right to be concerned about this. This protein can be removed with lye solution (careful!) or the enzyme based solutions sold for removing protein from pH electrodes. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 15:49:18 -0500 From: Jim Bentson <jbentson at longisland.com> Subject: Aircraft Cargo Pressures In HBD2966 Rob Ball stated the following: Just a quick answer to the posts about cabin pressure in jetliners. The baggage compartments are the same pressure as the inside cabin, only the temps are different.If these compartments were not at the same pressure as the rest of the plane it would rip apart and our worries would switch from bottles to the lack of parachutes!! Happy flying,drinking,ect.ect. BTW I LOVE THE HBDG!! My comment is: Just to allay fears, this statement about the aircraft ripping apart is incorrect. Aircraft structures, including the floor, are designed to survive sudden decompression. If Rob's statement was true the floor above the baggage compartment would explode upwards into the cabin if the cabin decompressed suddenly ( and vice-versa if the baggage compartment decompressed). There have been a number of cases where aircraft cargo doors blew off in flight with no consequences to the aircraft. The usual design load for aircraft floors is 100 to 200 psf. At 35,000 ft the pressure differential between the cabin and the outside of the fuselage is around 0.5 atmospheres or 72 psf. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 14:54 -0600 From: "BJM (Manbeck, Brad J.)" <BJM at roisysinc.com> Subject: Long Wit ferementation / Inexpensive H20 filter I have some questions relating to a long fermentation time with a wit beer I recently brewed. The primary ferment was 15 days and activity hadn't subsided when I transferred to the secondary. Activity (slow and steady) continued in the secondary for 41 days. The fermentation was around 65 degrees. Here's the grain bill 3.75 pounds Pale ale malt 1 pound flaked barley 4.25 pounds Wheat malt 1 pound rolled oats Originally the recipe called for flaked wheat, but the homebrew shop was out so I had to improvise the best I could and I upped the pounds of wheat malt and flaked barley. I used WYeast 3944 Belgian Witbier. I used an infusion mash at a temp of 152. Towards the end of the secondary fermentation the carboy had small bubbles floating to the top almost like carbonation. Has anyone experienced a similar experience with a wit? Does it look like there is a problem with recipe/technique that caused the problem? ------ I am looking for an inexpensive water filter for brewing. Something that wouldn't be permanent since I am renting. TIA for all help Brad Manbeck Burlap Shack Brewing bjm at roisysinc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 14:19:52 PST From: "Gradh O'Dunadaig" <odunadaig at hotmail.com> Subject: Specific Gravity Question hi kids, me again. i just racked two meads that i brewed in December. the gravities were 1.000 and 0.994. as i am certain that my hydrometer is fairly accurate, i am just wondering if this a normal occurrence with meads. feel free to flame me here or by email. TIA ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: 04 Mar 1999 17:10:09 -0500 From: RCAYOT at solutia.com Subject: For Publication Only Dear HBD'ers, I ahve been a homebrewer for some 20+ years, and have had many equipment evoluitons, and now it is time for yet another iteration. I am trying to decide on a Brew-pot design. Right now I use an aluminum pot, either 8 or 20gallon capacity depending on brewlength. I also use a copper "cane" with a copper cap and a "chore boy" as a way of removing hops and trub. Now this system works VERY WELL when I use whole hops, but either leaves too much wort behind, or if I "tip" the pot, too much hops and trub get carried over into the primary. What I would like to begin is a discussion of is: How hops and trub are best removed from hot wort (I use a counter flow wort chiller) I have a Sankey type keg I can convert, do any of the "false bottoms" out there work well for removing pelletized hops? Is there a "slotted drain" or variant that works well with pelletized hops? Is there a brew-pot (like the ones advertised by St. Pats, and Williams Brewing) that has a drain system that works well, again with pelletized hops? The reason I am focusing on pelletized hops is that I ahve been using whole hops or hop plugs almost exclusively, but recently found that I got much better utilization of hops using pellets. I know I know this should have been no surprise, but I got MUCH BETTER utilization not just the 10-25% higher value, at least by my taste buds. Also, pellets are more prevelant, easier to use, cost less, and store better, why not use them, especiallly for bittering or boiling hops? Anyway, I hope this can begin with several comments on the "standard" set-ups I mentioned, and also would like to hear any "inventive" ideas that may help me decide to convert my Sankey keg, or purchase a "Brew-pot". I think I can afford the SS pot, but I don't like the false bottom approach as advertised, as I think they may let too much of pelletized hops through. Regards, Roger Ayotte of the Escambia Bay Homebrewers Return to table of contents
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