---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com


Contents:
  Homebrew Clubs in France / Switzerland? (mark)
  Water (AJ)
  Wanted:  A Review of this Book ("Brett A. Spivy")
  Summer brewing ("BERNER,ROBERT A.")
  The Learning Kingdom ("Brett A. Spivy")
  UK brewing ingest/digest group (andrew.ryan-smith)
  Home Brewed Lemonade (Dave Burley)
  Warm summer ferments (Randy Ricchi)
  psuedo-CAPs (Randy Ricchi)
  Adult Lemonade (Al Czajkowski)
  My Mash Mixer experience. (Michael Kowalczyk)
  Adjuncts in British beer (Eric Reimer)
  RE:  Heather Ale (Chris Cooper)
  CO2 Pressure for Wheat Beer (Brian Kuhl)
  RE: Brew-Sack (Chris Cooper)
  Re: My Mash Mixer experience. (Mark Rogerson)
  Re: Adjuncts in British beer (Jeff Renner)
  IPA updage/dry hopping ("Russ Hobaugh")
  thanks ("Gradh O'Dunadaig")
  head on beer (Liz Blades)
  Italian BEER (Liz Blades)
  Walk in freezer at home (Joy Hansen)
  Clinitest - the birth of a momily ("Stephen Alexander")


* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy!

* 2000 MCAB Qualifier: Buzz-Off! Competition 6/26/99 
* (http://www.voicenet.com/~rpmattie/buzzoff)

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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 09:54:49 +0200
From: mark <shrike.cars at accesinternet.com>
Subject: Homebrew Clubs in France / Switzerland?

Fellow forumers....

HELP!!!!

I seem to be stuck here in France (rather than Germany) and am looking for a
homebrew club in the area around Geneva, Switzerland (either in France or
Switzerland)....

If anyone knows of any, please let me know? I'm dieing over here!!

Please reply to: mark at awfulquiet.com

Thanks!

Prost!
Mark



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Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 11:16:41 +0000
From: AJ <ajdel at mindspring.com>
Subject: Water

Jason Foster posted the following water parameters a few days ago:

alkalinity 127 mg/L
chloride 1.03 mg/L
sulfate 10.09 mg/L
hardness (as CaC03) 110 mg/L
calcium 25.7 mg/L
magnesium 11 mg/L
potassium  0.58 mg/L
sodium 1.55 mg/L

and asked for comments based on concern that there might not be enough
of some ions in there. That's true of calcium, sulfate and chloride but
as these are easy to add it's really good news. To begin at the
beginning the alkalinity and hardness (Ca++, Mg++) calculate out to a
residual alkalinity of 102 mg/L as CaCO3. This is going to be the
biggest problem with this water - it's going to resist acidification
with the result that mash pH's will be on the high side unless dark
malts are used in the grist or the calcium is supplemented or the water
is decarbonated or some combination of the three. There are many posts
in the archives which give the details on how to do these things. For
British style ales, simple addition of some gypsum will probably do the
job especially if there is some crystal in the grist.

Gypsum is calcium sulfate thus its addition increases hardness (thus
lowering residual alkalinity and mash pH) and sulfate levels which
increases perceived hops bitterness and dryness.

Chloride lends a sense of fullness, sweetness, roundness, body to the
beer and can be supplemented by addition of table salt or preferrably
calcium chloride. The latter is preferred in this case because it also
augments the calcium which helps with the mash pH.


- --
A. J. deLange
Numquam in dubio, saepe in errore.


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Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 07:39:13 -0500
From: "Brett A. Spivy" <baspivy at softdisk.com>
Subject: Wanted:  A Review of this Book

This is a snip from an email I periodically get from Amazon.com

<snip>

"Beer Lover's Companion"
by Josh Leventhal
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579120628/ref=ad_bb1
If you don't know your bock from your bitter, the "Beer
Lover's Companion" fits in a world of beer wisdom between
its covers. Standing as tall as the average-size beer
bottle, the book takes you on an international ale
pilgrimage, showcasing the beers and breweries of more than
20 countries.
<snip>

Does anyone know anything about this book?  The review section on
Amazon's page says that not only does it showcase 400 beers and
breweries, but also has tasting tips, style guidlines, and tips for
homebrewing.  It has been my experience that you get what you pay for
and this is priced at $9.98 (US).

Thanx in Advance (TxiA)
Brett




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Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 08:39:16 -0400
From: "BERNER,ROBERT A." <BERNERRA at apci.com>
Subject: Summer brewing


In HBD #3058 Nathan Kanous writes about summer brewing:

Brewery Ommegang reports to ferment their beers at around 78 degF.  If you
can keep things properly sanitary (as Lou mentions) you might be able to
produce some nice belgian brews if you can manage to get a hold of a sample
of their yeast and can't keep your fermentations "cool" enough.  Can't be
that hard for those of us looking in the bottom of our bottles.
<snip>

I toured Brewery Ommegang over Memorial Day weekend and they filter their
beer before bottling and then add yeast when they bottle. I do not know for
sure, but I believe that they use a different yeast for bottle conditioning.
They also condition their bottles in a very warm, high 70's low 80's, room
before shipping. It is my understanding that many bottle conditioned beers
are not bottled with the yeast that the beer was originally fermented with.
It helps the brewery retain it's "intellectual property". I have fermented
beers in the warm summer months that have had off flavors due to high
fermentation temps, but I never found these to make the beer undrinkable,
just different. 


Bob Berner  

Your body is a temple, a temple of Bacchus.




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Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 07:53:42 -0500
From: "Brett A. Spivy" <baspivy at softdisk.com>
Subject: The Learning Kingdom

One of the things that I have learned about homebrewers since my recent
entry into the hobby (craft, art, science, insert you prefered label
here) is that the group is sharply divided into 20% who believe they
know it ALL and 78% who believe compared to what they don't know, what
they do know is pretty small (very little room for middle ground).  The
latter group (in which I count myself) is pretty manic about learning
everything they can about anything in front of them.  So for the vast
majority of seekers I must reccomend a daily email from The Learning
Kingdom (no affiliation, just think its cool) they have Cool Word and
Cool Fact of the day each day, and today ITS ABOUT BEER!!!!!

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
    The Learning Kingdom's Cool Fact of the Day for June 16, 1999
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------

                   Why do brewers add hops to beer?

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------


The sharp bite of beer is partly a result of flavor elements that come
from the conelike female flower of the hop vine (Humulus lupulus),
also known as the "spices" of beer.  But hops do much more than add
flavor to beer.

Brewers began adding hops to beer in the fourteenth century, when it
was discovered that not only was the flavor better, but the beer also
held its head better (the foam lasted longer) and it was less likely
to go bad during the brewing process.

Female hops flowers contain glands that produce resins vital to the
brewing process.  They change the surface tension of the liquid, so
the head is firmer, and they also interfere with the growth of
undesirable bacteria.  Many complex compounds in the hops also
contribute to the distinctive flavor of beer.

More about how hops improve the flavor and quality of beer:
http://brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue2.1/tinseth.html

Advice for growing hops, and how to get some rhizomes to grow your
own:
http://www.freshops.com/

Today's Cool Word is beer:
http://www.cool-word.com/archive/1999/06/16.html


- ------------- The Learning Kingdom's FREE Daily Features -------------
If you're not already subscribed to all our Daily Features, why not
give them a try?  To add Cool Word of the Day and/or Today in History
to your free subscription, visit -->  http://www.tlk-lists.com/change/
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------


- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
            Cool Fact of the Day list membership: 125,911
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
          To subscribe, visit http://www.tlk-lists.com/join/
        To unsubscribe, visit http://www.tlk-lists.com/change/
     To become a sponsor, visit http://www.tlk-lists.com/sponsor/
    To subscribe a friend, visit http://www.tlk-lists.com/giftsub/
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
            Copyright (c) 1999, The Learning Kingdom, Inc.
                    http://www.LearningKingdom.com
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
    The Learning Kingdom's Cool Word of the Day for June 16, 1999
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------

                            beer [n. BIR]

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------


Traditional beer is an alcoholic beverage made by fermenting malt,
flavored with the female flowers of hops vines.  Nowadays, there are
hundreds of kinds of beer including beers without alcohol, and beers
made from all sorts of grains, roots, and other plant parts.
What they all have in common is a foamy head and a rich flavor.

Until the 15th century all foamy, fermented beverages were known as
ale, and a beer was almost any kind of drink.  The original root was
Late Latin bibere (to drink).  In the 16th century, a distinction
arose between beor, which was made with hops for flavoring, and ale,
made without hops.  Today, that distinction has faded.

More "drinking" words from bibere:

beverage: a drinkable fluid, but not usually water
bib: protective garment worn while eating; to drink heartily
bibulous: given to consuming alcoholic drinks; highly absorbent
imbibe: to drink; to absorb as if by drinking

Today's Cool Fact is about beer:
http://www.cool-fact.com/archive/1999/06/16.html



Return to table of contents


Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 14:00:11 +0100
From: andrew.ryan-smith at ind.alstom.com
Subject: UK brewing ingest/digest group



I've noticed a few UK brewers on here lately, and would like to let all of you
know of a small (but interesting - mostly) UK brewing group - UK Homebrew.

Anyone wishing to subscribe should find the following useful.

1. To send a message to the new list, address it to...

uk-homebrew at ale.co.uk

2. To join or leave the new list, send a message to

list at ale.co.uk

in ONE of the following forms...

join uk-homebrew
leave uk-homebrew
digest uk-homebrew

 ...the first two are self-explanatory, the third will either join
you to the Digest version (if you are not currently a member of
the list) or will swap you from individual message format to the
Digest format if you currently receive individual messages.

Cheers

Rhyno




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Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 09:59:09 -0400
From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com>
Subject: Home Brewed Lemonade

Brewsters:

Al Czajkowski asks for opinions on making his
Adults Only Lemonade sweeter to balance the
sourness of the added lemons.

My first thought is that you should try a single
infusion mash at 158F.  This should maximize
any dextrins and give you a finish more like
what I think you desire.The astringency you
got from using the whole rind can be eliminated
by using the zest, as you suggest.  I have found
that a vegetable peeler can be used on citrus
to provide a pithless source of zest without all
that time consuming activity and mess you get
from using a zester. I would add the peels at the
very end of the boil and let it stand for fifteen
minutes or more. You could even transfer
these sterilized  peels to the primary. I suspect
the citrus oils may have an impact on the
heading properties of this beer. Consider
adding less  of the juice, just peel lots of 

lemons and save the insides for the kids.

If you still want  to use an artificial sweetener
upon serving, dissolve the sweetener in a
little beer and then add that to the glass.
This should reduce the loss of carbonation.

Keep on Brewin'


Dave Burley

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Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 10:35:12 -0400
From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at ccisd.k12.mi.us>
Subject: Warm summer ferments

There have been some questions regarding fermenting in warm climates in the
summer months. I brewed an "Adelaide Sparkling Ale"  once using Australian
Ale yeast from Yeast Culture Kit Co.

I deliberately fermented at 78 degrees F because it was my understanding
that not only does the yeast give a nice fruitiness at that temp, but
ferments better at warmer temps.

The resulting beer had a beautiful, soft fruitiness, not excessive or harsh
in any way.

I would suspect other brands of Australian Ale yeast may give the same
results.



Return to table of contents


Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 10:41:43 -0400
From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at ccisd.k12.mi.us>
Subject: psuedo-CAPs

I brewed a pseudo-CAP last summer or fall using a kolsch yeast from Yeast
Culture Kit Co. The beer was very clean, and the hops (Hall.Mittelfrueh)
came through the ferment beautifully. By the way, talk about an aggressive
fermentation and MAJOR top-cropping yeast! I'm going to be ordering the
same yeast again soon to brew some more pseudo-CAP, as well as experiment
with pseudo-Vienna's, etc.

Since this is my second post in a row praising YCKC's yeast, I better
insert the standard disclaimer.. no affiliation, just a satisfied customer.





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Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 10:28:39 -0700
From: Al Czajkowski <aczajkow at ford.com>
Subject: Adult Lemonade

Several folks have noted that I should post the recipe to get better
input.  What I really neglected to note was that the base recipe was on
the HBD back in 97 vol 2459 to be exact.  So here it is.  Notes on what
I have done and plan to do are at the end.  I have also embedded a
couple of comments in the ingredient and method area.  Comments on the
replies I have received so far:  As you will see, no grain is used in
the recipe, so increasing the mash temp doesn't apply.  And for myself,
I'm staying away from any kind of malt, so using Laaglander DME isn't
where I want to go with this.  Thanks for the thoughts though.  Unless
someone has a better idea, I will probably go with lactose to increase
the sweetness.

First here is the original recipe as posted by Brad McMahon
<brad at sa.apana.org.au> and then converted to US measure by David Burki
<davidb at pdainc.com>

Ingredients
2.25 pounds rough lemons
4.5 pounds Meyer lemons (I couldn't find Meyer lemons - see note below)
2.25 pounds Dextrose 
1 sachet ale dry yeast  (I used Wyeast Labs London Ale stepped up twice
plus some yeast nutrient)

Method

1 Grate zest (rind) off a few of the lemons (Me, being the AR guy I am,
grated 15 lemons). Do not grate the white pith.
2 Chop up all the lemons into chunks. (This time I'm going to either
juice the lemons or use only the inner pulp)
3 Cover the lemons and zest with dextrose and a few quarts of water.
4 Bring to the boil and simmer for 10 minutes.
5 Dilute to 5 gallons in your fermenter, and pitch yeast at below 85
deg. F.  (I heated the entire 5 gallons to 170deg F for 10 minutes)
6 Ferment out at 68-77 deg. F for 7-10 days or until fermentation is
complete.
7 Bottle and prime as for beer.  Wait 14 days for carbonation and enjoy.
(I kegged mine - it was ready in 2 hours).

Notes:
Meyer lemons are sweeter lemons. Use them if available but 61/2 pounds
of
whatever lemons you can find will work just as nicely.  

The result of this was a very dry sparkling beverage - tasty but
lacking.  I made a second batch to which I added 1.0 lbs on light dry
malt and 1.0 lbs of malto-dextrin.  This batch was marginally sweeter
but I think the malt flavor was a negative flavor influence.  My initial
thoughts on this years first try is to go with 1.5 lbs of lactose but am
unsure of how much sweeter this will be.


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Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 21:57:52 -0700
From: Michael Kowalczyk <mikekowal at megsinet.net>
Subject: My Mash Mixer experience.

This is my recent experience with a Mash Mixer.  In surfing the net I came up
with this design for the mash tun and mash mixer.

 - Converted sankey keg.
 - Weldless false bottom from Heartland Homebrew.  Actually another company
makes it, but I don't have my notes with me.  I ordered it through heartland
though.
 - Motor, rod, 2 fans from Mcmaster Carr.  I used Randy Stoat's exact specs
from his web page (don't have the webpage, search for Femtobrewery and you'll
find it).  I mounted it on a piece of wood and fastened it to the keg with
screws and wingnuts.
 - Weldless Thermometer from Beer Beer 'n More Beer.

Bonehead brewery design #1 (actually #34, but lets not go there):  I mounted
the false bottom and thermometer a little too close together.  The lower fan
just fit between the two. If I moved the fan a half inch higher it would
catch on the theremometer, so I moved it lower where it still hit the pickup
tube, although it didn't make it stop.  I probably should have moved the
thermomether, but I said what the heck.

When I doughed in at 140 deg for my 15 minute 135 deg first step the motor
stopped.  I removed it, stirred and tried again.  Still stopped.  I removed
one of the fan blades and left the lower one.  Still stopped.  I then moved
the fan blade higher than the thermomether and it worked.  At least it looked
like it was stirring.  I was concerned that the mash was scorching because
the fan was about 12 inches from the bottom.  When I saw the temp go from 143
to 165, I knew it wasn't mixing properly.  I then went manual.

Here's what I'll try next time in order of what I think will contribute the
most:

 - Dough-in at 1.5 qt/lb.  I doughed in at 1.25 qt/lb.
 - Dough-in very slowly.  3 Additions.  Let each addition fold-in first before
adding the next.
 - Remove the thermometer.  Jack Schmidling says that the mash should be a
consistant temp so I should be able to read the temp quickly with just a few
inched of mash.

This should work.  I ruined the motor moving the fans around with a hammer so
I may get a bit stronger motor (the motor Randy suggested is fine).

That's my recent experience. 

 - Mike

p.s.  I will NEVER stir by hand again! 


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Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 11:26:27 -0400
From: Eric Reimer <ERIC at etymonic.com>
Subject: Adjuncts in British beer

Hi all and especially Jeff Renner,

Jeff wrote:
K&B is unusual among old British brewers in that, according to _The Real
Ale Almanac_, all but one of their beers do not use sugar.  However, they
do use invert sugar in their "Broadwood" (1.040) .  They use flaked maize
in their mild and ordinary bitter (both 1.034), as well as the 1.050
"Festive."  It sounds as if this is their "lightener" of choice.

Back to me:
Do you know what percentage of adjunct is used in each beer?

Thanks and cheers,

Eric Reimer
Barking Dogs Brewery
London, Ontario


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Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 13:09:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: Chris Cooper <ccooper at a2607cc.msr.hp.com>
Subject: RE:  Heather Ale


Eric posts a recipe for "Heather Ale" and asks for comments...
In reading your post it comes to my mind that the heather used
for the bulk of the recipe might be the new growth tips of the 
plants in spring time, and since the recipe stipulates heather
flowers for the "dry-heathering" post fermentation addition I
think it backs up the point.  Also consider that spruce beers
use the fresh "new shoots" by comparison.   Just a tought.. 8^)
I'll be interested in hearing how the experiment comes out.

     
Chris Cooper, Pine Haven Brewing (aka. Debbi's Kitchen)
Commerce, Michigan    Member, Ann Arbor Brewer's Guild
(Approximately 25 miles from 0.0 Renerian)



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Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 11:08:51 -0700
From: Brian Kuhl <brian.s.kuhl at intel.com>
Subject: CO2 Pressure for Wheat Beer

Hello All,
I just got setup to keg my homebrew! I am very happy I don't have to bottle my
latest batch of Wheat beer. I have a question on carbonation however.
What are some of you setting the pressure gage for this type of brew? I read
that the volumes of CO2 for wizen is 3.7-4.7. This seems extreme. At 35 degrees
F., This should equate to ~21-31 PSI. Am I in the right ball park?
Brian Kuhl
Folsom, CA




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Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 14:26:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: Chris Cooper <ccooper at a2607cc.msr.hp.com>
Subject: RE: Brew-Sack

Wow two posts on the same day!
But the mention of a "Brew-Sack".........Allow my to reflex.....

Several years ago I was gifted with a "Brew-Sack" by my loving and
unsuspecting spousal unit (she might rethink the gift if she had it
to do over again). There it sat under the Christmas Tree,  the
"Brew-Sack", almost hiding beneath the packages, ribbon, bows and
the rest of the trappings of the season.  It claimed that with the
addition of hot water and a packet of yeast that it would produce
a magical beverage for our consumption.  The process was simple
and I really enjoyed watching the sack swell over the next few days.
Once I had a plump "football" I dared push the dispensing tap and
to my amazement a carbonated brown liquid came forth, BEER!!! or at
least a suitable approximation of beer.  I was hooked!
I now look back on the "Sack" and it brings to mind the clown car
in the circus, you know the one, it pulls into the center of the ring
and an unending stream of clowns exit into the arena.
Yes the "Sack" became my clown car and from it's humble beginning
a seemingly unending progression of brewing "Brew-Stuff" has appeared!
My first simple brew kettle! "No dear don't use it for anything else
I'll buy you another stock pot for soup, after all that's my brew kettle"
and then a second and a third ............
Glass carboys cleaning brushes, handles and holders. A population of
plastic buckets of varing sizes and with various modifications,
millions of holes drilled by hand, plumbing inventions of copper and
plastic, valves and hoses.
Once the kitchen was full and bursting at the seams and to preseve
household harmony the "Sack" asked if it could use the garage, as I
opened the door it spied the space there was no stopping it!!!
High output cookers, STAINLESS STEEL (appropriate grunting noises,
more power, more power) and REFRIGERATION !!!!
Old beer fridge, older beer fridge (I think the "Sack" took out 
classified adds claiming that my garage was a retirement villa for
unwanted fridges, I noticed a shuffle board chalked on the garage floor
the other day with a fridge standing at each end.  Boy do they move slow!
I hope the game is over before I need to park a car in there next winter.).
It is really amazing when I think about the volume of "Brew-Stuff" that
came from my friend the "Sack", also the amount of fun, friends (the HBD)
and enjoyment that it has provided over the past few years.      

Kurt, I'll raise a toast to you "Brew-Sack" tonight and so should you, so
"Eat drink and be merry for tomorrow the Brew-Sack shall inhierit your abode!
(Caution whatever you do, don't let it near another Brew-Sack or before
you know it there will be little "Brew-Baggies" all over the place!)


Chris Cooper, Pine Haven Brewing (aka. Debbi's Kitchen)
Commerce, Michigan    Member, Ann Arbor Brewer's Guild
(Approximately 25 miles from 0.0 Renerian)



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Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 13:25:33 -0500
From: Mark Rogerson <arkmay at flash.net>
Subject: Re: My Mash Mixer experience.

Michael Kowalczyk posted about a mash mixer and referenced my
homepage.  I'd like to add my two cents.

> ... I used Randy Stoat's exact specs from his web page (don't
> have the webpage, search for Femtobrewery and you'll find it).

I REALLY need to clarify this on my homepages:  MY name is Mark
Rogerson - my BREWERY'S name is Randy Stoat (think Horny
Weasel).  Anyway, to see my mixer (The MashStirMinder) -
browse to:  http://www.flash.net/~arkmay/Mark/rsf_tour/msm.html

> When I doughed in at 140 deg for my 15 minute 135 deg first
> step the motor stopped.  I removed it, stirred and tried again.
>
> Still stopped.  I removed one of the fan blades and left the
> lower one.  Still stopped.  I then moved the fan blade higher
> than the thermomether and it worked.  At least it looked like
> it was stirring.  I was concerned that the mash was scorching
> because the fan was about 12 inches from the bottom.  When
> I saw the temp go from 143 to 165, I knew it wasn't mixing
> properly.  I then went manual.

After I finished building my mixer, I brewed 5-gallon batches to
try and work the kinks out of everything.  I mashed in with
1.3333 quarts of water per pound of grain just to be sure that
the motor wouldn't stop.  No more than about 12 pounds of grain
was mashed in these batches.  Everything was working great so I
made a website showing off my wonderful toys.

Then I decided to brew my first 10-gallon batch.  The added grain

bogged down the motor almost instantly so I stirred manually.
After the grain had thoroughly soaked up the water and the mash
was
quite gooey (after a 60 min. sac. rest), the mixer would turn,
but
not well enough to mix evenly during a temperature boost. More
stirring.

When I bought the motor for my mixer from McMaster-Carr
(http://www.mcmaster.com), it was advertised as being able to
supply 50 inch pounds of torque.  When their new catalog came
out, my motor was listed with 25 inch pounds of torque.  That
explains a lot.

Michael's modified plans for his next session include:

> - Dough-in at 1.5 qt/lb.  I doughed in at 1.25 qt/lb.
> - Dough-in very slowly.  3 Additions.  Let each addition
> fold-in
> first before adding the next.
> - Remove the thermometer.  Jack Schmidling says that the
> mash should be a consistant temp so I should be able to
> read the temp quickly with just a few inched of mash.

I wouldn't remove the thermometer unless it's in the way.  I've
made temperature measurements while the mixer was running and
found that the heat is not evenly distributed all of the time -
which is logical (if the temp was even you wouldn't need to
stir).
It never hurts to have another source of information.

As for fixing my problems, I've thought of this:  The fans blades

I bought have five fins. I plan on cutting a fin or two off to
see
if less drag is what I need.

If that doesn't help, I'm building a RIMS.

Michael finished up by saying:

> p.s.  I will NEVER stir by hand again!

 ...which is what I used to say.
- --
Mark Rogerson, HMFIC
Randy Stoat Femtobrewery
Houston, Texas, U! S! A!
http://www.flash.net/~arkmay/Mark/rsf_tour/

Minister of Propaganda
Kuykendahl Gran Brewers
Houston, Texas, U! S! A!
http://www.TheKGB.org/



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Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 14:00:55 -0400
From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Adjuncts in British beer

At 11:26 AM -0400 6/16/99, Eric Reimer wrote:
>Do you know what percentage of adjunct is used in each beer?

Nope, sorry.  Some brewers disclosed such details to the Real Ale Almanac
author, Roger Protz, other didn't.  This is a valuable resource, BTW, in
duplicating British beers.  It is available in the US for $15.00

Jeff

 -=-=-=-=-
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu
"One never knows, do one?"  Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. 




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Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 16:46:24 -0400
From: "Russ Hobaugh" <Russ_Hobaugh at erm.com>
Subject: IPA updage/dry hopping



I wanted to thank all who gave me advice on the IPA recipe I formulated.
I just bottled it last night, and it was excellent--good spicy bitterness, and
nice hop aroma
and taste.  I got an overwhelming amount of helpful emails regarding the amount
of bittering hops, and changed the recipe accordingly.  I think the "success" of
this
recipe was a result of the good advice from all of you.  I find the HBD much
more
helpful than the local club meetings that I go to, so keep it up.

This was the first time that I dry hopped, and a couple of questions came up as
I was doing this:

How do you get the hops to sink?  I remember reading about sticking marbles in
the muslin bag.
I added 5 marbles, and 1 oz. of hops, and it floated for 12 days!(actually it
never sank)

Is there an easy way to get the bag of hops/marbles into and out of the carboy?
I had to cut the plugs
up to get them in, and then use forcips to grab the bag, untie it and pull out
the hops little by little until
I could get the bag out of the mouth of the carboy.  There has GOT to be an
easier way, so clue me
in!  TIA

Russ Hobaugh
Goob' Dog Brewery, Birdsboro PA





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Date: Sat, 05 Jun 1999 09:09:56 PDT
From: "Gradh O'Dunadaig" <odunadaig at hotmail.com>
Subject: thanks

hi kids,

just wanna say thanks for all your help. i believe the problem is 
under-priming. in the future, i will use corn sugar by weight instead of 
volume, hoping this will turn the trick.

just for the record, i soak my bottles in a bleach solution, then run them 
through a dishwasher that gets so hot that i am almost surprised that the 
bottles don't distort.

thanks again and again


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com


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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 99 00:13:04 BST
From: blades at airtime.co.uk (Liz Blades)
Subject: head on beer


*******
Nigel says:
>>Here's one to raise a few blood pressures.  Is there any practical
>>benefit
>>to having a thick creamy head on a glass of beer??
>
>Over here in the UK it seems a very regional thing, and is 
>constantly a source of argument between northern and southern 
>drinkers.

OK, but who's right!?!?

Us northeners of course.

Sorry Nigel

Cheers

Elizabeth



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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 99 00:13:07 BST
From: blades at airtime.co.uk (Liz Blades)
Subject: Italian BEER



Jeff Porterfield wrote in HBD #3056:

>"...I've never heard of an Italian beer.  Are there any? Just wondering..."<

"Last year I came across something called Birra Moretti La Rossa, which is 
apparently an Italian version of a Vienna Marzen. I remember enjoying it. 
I've also had something called Birra Peroni, although that was sometime in 
the very distant past. I do see both around from time to time."

First apologies if the attributions are wrong.

Italy has now woken up to beer,especially in the north of the country.
There are many micro-breweries and brew pubs springing up all over the place
especially on the German border.

There are are a couple of beers available european wide but these are mainly 
lager types and nothing special.
I get,from time to time,an Italian beer magazine that gives statistics of 
beer drinkinking they are becoming bigger beer drinkers than us Brits or 
even the Germans.

If I can find my last copy(and that is a big if) I'll translate the stats here.

Cheers

Elizabeth




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Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 19:55:33 -0400
From: joytbrew at halifax.com (Joy Hansen)
Subject: Walk in freezer at home 



>Hi Scott,
>
>I'm not a nay sayer; however, I've seen many commercial walk-in freezer and
>refrigerator advertised in used equipment news papers.  In the Washington,
>DC area, it's called "Want Ad".  In Richmond, VA, it's called "Trading
>Post".  You could save considerable headache, money, and time by using a
>unit designed for the purpose.  The last ones I saw in the literature had
>galvanized interiors and panel construction.  Easy to move and reassemble.
>
>                                              Joy"T"Brew
>



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Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 22:16:25 -0400
From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Clinitest - the birth of a momily

Jim Bentson writes ...

>What I am STUNNED about is not a single mention about this post as of the
>June 7th HBD.

I think all the participants are sick to death of the direction the offline
discussion took, and frustrated by the lack of progress by Louis Bonham on
his long promised experimental results.

- --
>Since no one else will say it, I will. Congratulations to Dave Burley, it
>seems that you were right in promoting Clinitest as a useful indicator of
>finished fermentation despite the severe pounding you took for maintaining
>that view. Anyone interested should read Joe's full post in HBD #3039 (May
>25) to get the details on how to interpret the results.

Jim - you would be well advised to go back and read the original discussion
in HBD circa Aug-Sept 1998.  The conclusion that you have drawn is
completely and totally incorrect and at odds with what has been posted.
Consider the following three items ...

1/  David Burley consistently contended that a fermentation was only
    completed after a Clinitest reading of 0% or <1/4% was reached e.g:
 -DB> Clinitest will give a reading of <1/4% or less when a fermentation is
 -DB> finished.
   and
 -DB> Unfortunately, these results may or may
 -DB> not be meaningful as a means of evaluating Clinitest or my
 -DB> observation that, in my experience of several decades, a reading
 -DB> of <1/4% glucose indicates the fermentation is finished.

2/  I contended that 1/4% to 1/2% of *non-fermentables* would remain
     and that levels of fermentable (but unfermented) sugars did appear
     in commercial beers (from M&BS tables, avg 0.33%).  I then posted
     actual measurements of 1/2% for an ale I had made, David Burley
     *insisted* that my 1/2% ale could not have finished fermenting.

3/ Siebels states that a 1/2% and up to 3/4% reading is normal at
    completion of fermentation. Joe Powers of Siebel in HBD #3039
    states (I changed the text case for readability):
 -JP> The test, though, does require some interpretation of the
 -JP> results.  [...]
 -JP> The average beer has a reducing sugar level of about 1% as
 -JP> maltose due to the presence of those dextrins after complete
 -JP> fermentation of sugar.  [...], 1% maltose
 -JP> corresponds to about 0.5% glucose in completely fermented beer
 -JP> using tthe Clinitest.  Beers with more than 0.5% Clinitest
 -JP> reading are not completely fermented, unless the wort extract
 -JP> level was unusually high.  In this case more dextrins will be
 -JP> present, maybe enough to give a reading of about 0.75% [...]

Where I would assume that Siebels definition of 'unusually high wort extract
levels' is in reference to commercial beers at about 12P.

===

Let me condense this for those with a short attention span:
CLINITEST:
1/ David says 0%, <1/4% and certainly not above 1/4% Clinitest means
    a finished fermentation.
2/ Steve says 1/4% to 1/2% PLUS possibly some additional for residual
    fermentables is a finished fermentation.
3/ Siebel says 1/2% up to even 3/4% is a finished fermentation.

>What I am STUNNED about is not a single mention about this post as of the
>June 7th HBD.

I am completely stunned that you, Jim, could have drawn the conclusion that
Siebel supports Burley on Clinitest - it's just the opposite.  But Jim isn't
the only person to have come to this very odd conclusion.
===

David's <1/4% figure does not correspond to my experience in testing my own
and friends HB (greater than 30 samples, none below 1/4%)  It does not
correspond with the calculation that I presented in HBD.  And it is
gratifying to see that it does not correspond with Siebels posted statement
either.  If David "got a severe pounding" you can include Siebels on the
list of "pounder's" - they just refuted his "<1/4%" dogma completely
when they said a  0.5% reading was normal and higher readings possible.

David has stated that he has decades of Clinitest experience and that he
consistently gets <1/4% final readings.  I take him to be completely honest
about his data, but there is a discrepancy to explain, and it is now clear
that he bears the onus of proof in the matter.  May I suggest he take it up
with Siebel as I personally have no further interest in debating the issue
without fresh facts beyond David's idiosyncratic experience.

As I stated in my original 'Tuborg' post  to HBD circa Aug 17, 1998:
>A Clinitest reading of 0.25% RSGE confirms completion of fermentation.
>At levels above the "2% or greater" color chart value Clinitest indicates
>incomplete fermentation.  Intermediate readings of 0.5%, 0.75% and
>1.0% RSGE available with Clinitest may be useful for assessing completion
>of fermentation, but only in the hands of an experienced brewer capable of
>estimating wort fermentability and yeast performance by other means.

I stand by this and find no reason in light of the Siebel post to modify my
statement.  Siebel's statement does NOT support the "<1/4% Clinitest as
required for finished fermentation" POV - it refutes it completely.

Steve Alexander

p.s. No offense Jim Bentson - but your conclusion, and this whole subject
kinda hacks me off.

p.p.s. I now fully expect a rebuttal on how to properly interpret the Siebel
statement and why some HBer's experimental data represent "facts" while
others are just "opinion".  Don't bother I'm not biting on that hook.






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