HOMEBREW Digest #3148 Tue 19 October 1999

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  re: Starter Stirrer? (John_E_Schnupp)
  Cereal cooking conspiracy? (Paul Shick)
  Re: force-carbonating (Jeff Renner)
  Re: starter temps ("Alan Meeker")
  Homemade High-precision Thermometer ("Charles T. Major")
  Yeast, Media and Desity (Brad Miller)
  re:Convert Sankey to Corny? (MaltHound)
  Info on Sake (Jaxson28)
  yeast,malt no hops or water (Jim Liddil)
  Good Bye and Good Luck (Joe Rolfe)
  Re: Bohemian Pilsner (Part I) ("John W. Thomasson")
  Re: Bohemian Pilsner (Part II) ("John W. Thomasson")
  yeast and antibiotics ("Stephen .")
  Yeast starters, nutrient, etc. ("Sean Richens")
  Competition  Announcement ("Jim Hinken")
  Competition Announcement (again) ("Jim Hinken")
  cleaning  a calcified carboy ("Todd & Sherrel Crane")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 01:09:07 -0700 From: John_E_Schnupp at amat.com Subject: re: Starter Stirrer? Phil asks me: >John, can you elaborate on this 'stirrer'? Did you make it etc...? It's in the archives but that was some time ago. It's a good thing I save this stuff as it comes in handy everyone in a while. The basic idea is to mount a magnet to a motor. Have some sort of speed control on the motor. Build a stand to hold whatever vessel you will use. Drop in some sort of stir bar and you're all set. You may need to adjust the magnet to provide proper magnetic coupling. Since there is no one was to do this I leave it as an exercise I've built a few variations. Mine have all been DC motors but I've looked at a commercial one that used a variac to control the speed of a small AC motor. Here's what I origionally posted: I would first like to thank those who responded with information about stirring magnets and where to get them. I now have several more neat website bookmarks. I opted not to purchase, instead, I successfully constructed my own stirrer and it cost me $0.00 :-) Here's my approach: Stir bars: Dave Burley suggested that I make my own stirring magnets by using a nail in some sealed tubing, I opted for this approach. I cut several lengths using a nail that fit inside some teflon tubing. I then sealed the ends by melting them, be careful with this as it can be easy to catch the tubing on fire. I made 3/4", 1", 1.5" and 2" stirrers. The nails were from my workshop and the tubing was scraps obtained from work. I now had to figure out how get these little suckers to spin in an erlymer flask. Magnets: I have some *very, very* strong magnets that I also got from work. In their former life they were used to couple a robot which is inside a vacuum chamber to it's motor which is at atmospheric pressure. The little beasties are about 1" square and 1/4" thick. I'm not sure of their composition but I'll bet they are some rare earth ceramic type magnets. Anyway, the stirrers I made were attracted to them in a big way, but how do I get the magnet to spin. Motor: I considered several different ways of making the magnet spin. Several folks told me that 300-500 RPM was probably the minimum acceptable speed. In order to have some sort of speed control, I decided that a DC motor was the way to go. I also wanted to be able to attach the magnet directly to the motor shaft instead of having to use pulleys or gears. Last week as I was cleaning out my garage to make room for the car, I came across something and the proverbial light bulb turned on, a muffin fan. I am quite a pack-rat and had several sizes and types. I settled for one with metal blades (steel I think, judging by the way the magnet was attracted to it) and rated at 18 VDC. I tested the fan without the magnet and found that it worked down to about 10 VDC, below this and the fan would just stall. I centered the magnet on the hub and tried again. The magnet didn't seem effect the fan at all. I made a case from some scrap wood in my shop. I found that the magnet needed to be fairly close to the stirrer in order to maintain the magnetic coupling at high speeds. I constructed the case so that the bottom of the flask was slightly less than 1/8" away from the bottom of the erlymer flask. To do this I cut a hole in the center of a piece of 1/4" plywood (so the magnet can rotate) and adjusted the height of the fan until I had the desired coupling. A fan with a plastic case will require attaching a magnet with some sort of epoxy type glue. Results: This baby rips. When I first tried it out I used a 1" stirrer. It actually stirred too much so I made a 3/4" stirrer which is much more to my liking. I found that about 12 VDC gave me a nice whirlpool with it's vertex at the stirrer. I know this isn't a lab quality device but for the price (free for me, a few $$ if you need to buy one or more items) you can't beat it. John Schnupp, N3CNL Dirty Laundry Brewery Colchester, VT 95 XLH 1200 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 10:23:29 -0400 (EDT) From: Paul Shick <SHICK at JCVAXA.jcu.edu> Subject: Cereal cooking conspiracy? Hello all, Well, I never thought that HBDers would be so vicious or so well organized! A week or so back, I posted about the difficulties of lautering when using fine-ground corn meal as an adjunct, and suggested that people use polenta or grits, instead. This Thursday and Friday I tried to buy these coarse corn products at five different Cleveland area stores, with no success. Everyone in town was sold out of polenta and grits! I was forced to go with Quaker finely ground corn meal, again, with the predicted lautering pain, when making a CAP (insert cute brew name like ``Constipated CAP" here.) The store managers kept talking about problems with suppliers, but my guess is that there's a huge conspiracy of HBDers systematically buying up all of the polenta and grits in the country. Either that, or lots of folks are celebrating Fall by brewing CAPs. I did learn something positive from this latest fiasco, which may be of use to others who use pumps on their mash/lauter tuns. When working with sticky adjuncts like corn meal, make sure that the outlet from the pump is completely submerged (either at the top of the M/L tun or in the kettle, if you're running off.) That way, when the mash begins to set up, you can switch off the pump and the wort will flow back into the tun through the false bottom, refloating the mash. After a few seconds, things should flow more smoothly when you switch the pump back on. If you're running off into the kettle when this happens, you might need to have the outlet well below the surface, to avoid sucking FWH hops into the works. Having the pump outlet submerged is good practice, in any case, to avoid HSA, but using this as a "backflushing" technique is something I haven't tried before. I hope some find it useful (but NOT the conspirators who bought up all the grits.) Paul Shick Basement brewing in Cleveland Hts OH Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 10:35:35 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: force-carbonating JPullum127 at aol.com writes: >my friend just got a sparkler head to go with nitro/c02 mix. i need a rough >idea of how long and at what pressure to force carb a 15 gallon keg to work Since N2 is nearly insoluble, at least compared to CO2, I wouldn't use the mix to force carbonate, but would rather use CO2. It is of course temperature dependent. For 48F beer, I find that running the pressure up to 30-40 psi and shaking on and off for maybe ten minutes, then gradually reducing the pressure and continuing to shake, I can pretty well hit my desired carbonation within 30 minutes. I judge how quickly it dissolves at lower pressures by the sound of the gas bubbling in. The end point can be hit fairly well with experience. There are plenty of carbonation tables available online and in print to get you to the carbonation you want. You then adjust the partial CO2 pressure of your mix to match the partial pressure of the dissolved CO2 to keep a steady state. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 10:42:34 -0400 From: "Alan Meeker" <ameeker at welch.jhu.edu> Subject: Re: starter temps Kyle asks about growth temps for yeast starters: > Anyone have a reference as to whether starter temperature is important? In > the same book, Fix suggests that the starter culture should be propagated at > the same temperature as the beer is fermented at. I did see a post from > several years ago that MB Raines suggests growing the starter at room > temperature. Seems to me that maximizing healthy cell counts is most > important outcome for yeast starters, and this can best be achieved at warmer > temps. rather then cooler temps. Many people believe that the starter should, by and large, be grown in conditions that mimic as closely as possible what they will be experiencing in the actual wort. Intuitively, this makes some sense as, in theory, they will be adapted to the type of environment they are soon to encounter in making your beer. For one thing, this could help to reduce lag times (less adaptation necessary early in the fermentation) However, in practice it probably doesn't work quite as well as one might expect because most people let their starters saturate and either flocculate out or encourage them to do so by cooling. This means that they have most recently been growing under conditions closer to the ones they will experience at the /end/ of fermentation (low nutrients, higher alcohol, low pH, etc..) not the conditions they will be experiencing when you pitch them into the fresh wort. Note that this will vary according to the specific details of your starter's growth - for instance, if you take pains to supply plenty of oxygen and are growing in a low glucose media then the yeast will not be making too much (if any) alcohol. Temperature is a bit different than these other factors which will change as the yeast grow and will almost certainly also differ between the satrter they are coming out of and the wort they are going into. Temperature, if control is available, can be kept identical in going from starter to wort if so desired. Still, it may be beneficial to grow the starter at a different temperature than that at which you plan to ferment, at least up until the late stages of starter growth. Each yeast species/strain has its own optimal temperature for growth and, since our main goal in making a yeast starter is to generate sufficient yeast numbers in a reasonable amount of time, if we grow the starter at the optimal temp we will generate a culture in the least amount of time and, as a bonus, they will be at peak health. Caution must be exercised however so that the temp doesn't get too high as yeast health and viability will be compromised. There is a subtle point here that should be borne in mind - a dense culture of actively growing yeast will generate heat on their own, a byproduct of all that intense metabolic activity. This means that if you are not careful the yeast can bump themselves right over their optimal growth temperature which could mean trouble. There was a paper awhile ago published in one of the brewing journals which showed some graphs of yeast viability as a function of innoculation (pitch rate) density for otherwise equivalent cultures. They saw a /decreased/ viability for the very highest pitch rates they looked at and had some (IMHO) questionable conclusions as to the source of this phenonmenon. What it really looks like is that they did not control for temperature well enough and so the likely cause of this vibility decrease was probably a metabolic-induced temperature increase. THE SKINNY: Many of the yeast we use (the ale yeast anyway) have growth temperature optima in the range of 30 degC or so, a temperature higher than many people's "room temperature." If you are interested in growing your starter as fast as possible then grow at the optimal temperature, just be careful they don't go over this temperature. If you want the starter to be temperature-matched to the beer you are brewing then grow at the optimal temp during the early phase(s) of starter growth and shift to your expected fermentation temperature later on. -Alan Meeker Baltimore, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 10:39:52 -0500 (Central Daylight Time) From: "Charles T. Major" <ctmajor at samford.edu> Subject: Homemade High-precision Thermometer I just came across an interesting article in the March 1999 _Scientific American._ The article provides instructions for building a highly accurate ("within a few thousandths of a degree C") thermometer based on a platinum-coated ceramic resistance temperature detector for under $100. While it looks too delicate for regular brewday use (the temp. probe is constructed out of a ceramic rod inside a Pyrex tube), it might be very good for thermometer calibration, for those of you interested in extreme accuracy. Here is the full citation: Carlson, Shawn. "The Amateur Scientist: A Homemade High-Precision Thermometer." _Scientific American._ 280.3 (March 1999): 102-103. Regards, Tidmarsh Major Birmingham, Alabama Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 09:24:09 -0800 From: Brad Miller <millerb at targen.com> Subject: Yeast, Media and Desity With all of the recent talk about yeast and all that goes with it, I thought it might be nice to share some data. From Current Protocols in Molecular Biology Vol.2: Basic Technicques of Yeast Genetics Yest cells grow well on a minimal media containing dextrose (glucose) as a carbon source and salts which supply nitrogen, phosphorous and trace metals. Yeast grow grow more rapidly however in the presence of protein and yeast cell extract hydrolysates, which provide amino acids, nucleotide precursors, vitamins and other metabolites which the cell would normally synthesize de novo. During exponential or log phase growth, yeast cells divide every 90 min when grown in such a media. Log phase can be divided into 3 stages based on rate of division which is a function of cell density of the culture. Early log phase is the period when cell densities are >10^7 cell/mL. Mid log is when cells are between 1 and 5E7 c/mL. Late log phase is when densities are between 5E7 and 2E8c/mL. At a density of 2E8 c/mL, yeast cultures are soid to be saturated and the cells enter stationary or Go phase. (Interpritation: What ever you do to make a starter keep the seed train density between 1E7 and 2E8. This way you are always in the log phase of growth.) Media Prep (For those who asked about yeast nutrients) Suppliers of components: JT Baker, Difco, Sigma, PCR inc Rich medium YPD Per liter: 10 g yeast extract, 20 g peptone, 20 g dextrose Note: For optimal growth, autoclave 20% dextrose (boil). Sterile filter other components. Other things to note: Grow at 30 C, for aeration purposes media should be only 1/5 total flask volume, try flat bottom tissue culture flasks for greater surface area:volume ratio, use a shaker or stirer. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 13:49:50 EDT From: MaltHound at aol.com Subject: re:Convert Sankey to Corny? In HBD 3146 Phil Sides wondered about 1/2 barrel kegs that have been converted to use corney fittings and lids. I happened to have seen one just like this the other day at a nice HB shop in Nashua NH called "Jaspers". I think the unit was manufactured by Sabco because it was displayed right next to a Sabco mash-tun (also a converted 1/2 barrel). In any case, I'm sure that Geoff or Lindy the proprietors of Jasper's would gladly lt you know all about them. Just tell them I sent you... No affilliation, just a happy customer. Jasper's is at 4 Temple Street in Nashua, NH Phone 603-881-3052 Regards, Fred Wills Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 17:48:07 EDT From: Jaxson28 at aol.com Subject: Info on Sake I'm interested in brewing sake for a close friend who loves the stuff. Does anyone know of a recipe or direct me to where I can find information on brewing sake? Thanks Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 20:32:36 -0400 From: Jim Liddil <jliddil at vms.arizona.edu> Subject: yeast,malt no hops or water Steve A wrote: > You should really examine information on chemostat and > bioreactor > design. Jim Liddel(the Idi Amin of HBD ?) mentioned the > chemostat > before the crash - but I am afraid he left the > impression that it was > a designed for optimal growth. It was not. It was > designed to study I think Omar Qhadafi (sp?) might be better. And the spelling is LIDDIL. Watch out for the letter in the mail impregnated with DMSO and Ricin. I looked on the web at the companies that sell such devices and they call them Chemostat bioreactors. One and the same in this day and age. You can use it to study or produce. My point was that you could rig one and use YM broth to gorw yeast. YM has glucose but also has malt extract. Or one could use wort. Lynn wrote: > The Czech Moravian malt, which I have imported for the past 2 years, is > indeed well-modified. > Kolbach > 42. Malt specs are on our web page (now linked from grain > page). First off let me say I spent a fair amount of money at St Pat's over the years and have found the Czech malt to work well. shipping to CT si going to be a killer. Are the sheets on the site for the current lot you have in stock? Folks might want to check the HBD archives for a discussion that myself, Steve A , George Depiro and others ahd about malt modification last year or so. Kilbach index while and indicator of modification does not tell the whole story. One must look at the complete analysis. And remember that these numbers are a statistical average. Maltsters blend malt to get a good number. All maltsters blend to achieve the numbers the customers want. So look at all the parameters and do not just worry about kolbach. It is great that all the info is there. Ask yourself, why are 2 out of every 100 kernels moldy and is this a normal value as compared to other brands. What is the Enzyme level? In my opinion you would be wise to also archive the yeast with someone like the ATCC (atcc.org). What sort of redundant LN2 delivery system does wyeast have. do they have backup power for the -80 C freezers? And for those intersted check out the ATCC catalog and search on wyeast and see where they have their 'backups'. Jim Liddil Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 20:51:44 -0400 (EDT) From: Joe Rolfe <onbc at shore.net> Subject: Good Bye and Good Luck I am going to take a break from anything relating to brewing until my shrink judges me sane enuff to even rethink brewing. Ever since the loss of our brewery and nearly our house, the s**t has hit the fan...In order to put the 5 yrs or so my wife and I put in to the brewery behind me in particular the only way to do so is to get away from the topic. As I look as most of the posts here over the years, most really had little to do with "normal homebrewing". I was always slanted tword the commercial end. Somethings homebrewers do amaze me (both ways)...but hell it is supposed to be a hobby...it never was for me... Anyway if anything I said was helpful, great. If topics I mention had no bearing on what you do - I am sorry for clogging the list. If I pissed anyone off, even Gump.. I am sorry for those occassions also. wish you all the best of luck and brewing, Later, Joe Rolfe Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 21:54:28 -0500 From: "John W. Thomasson" <jwtjr999 at flash.net> Subject: Re: Bohemian Pilsner (Part I) Thanks to everyone who either posted or responded privately to my post in HBD #3142, same subject. Because this seemed to generate some interest, I decided to summarize the responses and what I ended up doing. I brewed this beer Saturday, 10.16.99. The session went very well. I believe this will be fair representation of the style, although I probably won't send a bottle to Dr. Pivo with a note saying, "cry your eyes out, pal". My main concerns were yeast management, water treatment and proper body in the finished beer. There was a general consensus that my basic recipe and procedure were OK. Mark Bayer suggested that I get in touch with Dr. Pivo for advice on fermentation temperatures, so I did. I received a most informative response the following day. He uses Huerlimann's yeast for this style (which I am unfamiliar with) and a 8C-4C-6C ferm temp schedule, which in his experience results in production of appropriate levels of diacetyl for the style. I don't know how this ferm temp schedule will work with Wyeast #2278, but I guess I'll find out. I'll lager at 0C for 8 weeks. Ken Schwartz has a recipe for a Pils type profile water in his article "Water Chemistry Primer for Brewers" available on his website: http://home.elp.rr.com/brewbeer/water/wcprimer.html In response to my inquiry on how to reliably measure such small quantities of salts for addition to distilled water, Ken recommended an inexpensive scale which can be found at: http://www.edmundscientific.com/Products/DisplayProduct.cfm?productid=777 Until I can get one of these little scales, I decided to follow Marc Sedam's suggestion to simply add a half gallon of my own water (which has lots of everything) to 10 gallons of distilled water. Dr. Pivo suggested that I do a mini mash with a cupful of malt and measure the pH. With small incremental additions of calcium chloride to the total volume of mash water, I was able to get the pH of the mini mash to stabilize at 5.4. To prevent over attenuation and lack of body in the finished beer, I considered adding some Cara-Pils. In my experience, anything less than a couple of pounds wouldn't boost the FG enough to matter and would alter the malt character I was seeking. So, I omitted the 140F rest, planned to mash in at 158F and increased the malt charge by a half pound to a total of 9.5#. I'm betting that the FG will end up about 1.012-13. A little lower than I'd like, but hopefully not so low as to be considered a defect. Many, including Dr. Pivo, recommended an EOB hop addition. I really didn't want to exceed a total of 4 oz. because I've experienced haze and astringency problems in the past from doing so. As a compromise, I decided to FWH with 2.75 oz. Saaz and add 1 oz. at EOB, relying on the FWH for flavor. I know this is somewhat controversial, but I always get hop flavor from FWH, even with no late kettle additions. Lynne O'Connor pointed out that FWH'ing is not done in Czech breweries, but goes on to say that doesn't necessarily make it inappropriate to do so. I'm not planning to dry hop this brew. Lynne also mentioned that the Kolbach index on the Moravian malt she imports is >42, which indicates full modification. I did obtain my malt from St. Pat's, 100# of it in fact. I had the spec sheet before I bought the malt, so I ruled out a P rest early on. I have to say this stuff is the best malt I've used. I wanted 100# of the Moravian light Munich as well, but they were out of stock at the time. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 21:55:42 -0500 From: "John W. Thomasson" <jwtjr999 at flash.net> Subject: Re: Bohemian Pilsner (Part II) I stepped up a standard Wyeast #2278 smack pack 4 times to 2 gallons, aerating with O2 between each step. The yeast was fresh, so the wort additions were made about 24 hours apart. I allowed the final addition to ferment to completion, then refrigerated to encourage the yeast to settle. I decanted the spent wort and pitched only the slurry, which is my normal procedure. My revised recipe: 9.5# Czech Moravian Pils Single Decoction mash 90' at 158F 10' at 168F 2.75 oz. Czech Saaz FWH (3.6% AA) 1.00 oz. Czech Saaz EOB (3.0% AA) OG: 1.056 (actual) FG: 1.015 (pipe dream) IBU: 45 (ProMash) SRM: 3.6 (ProMash) I undershot the mash in temp by 4 degrees and decided to live with 154F since I was mashing in my Gott. After 20 minutes, I pulled nearly half of the thickest part of the mash, brought it to a boil in 15 minutes and boiled for 30. I cooled the decoction before returning it to the main mash by stirring in ice cubes made from prepared mash liquor. Some darkening of the boiled mash was evident when it was returned to the main mash. The cooled decoction and the remainder of the mash stabilized at 158F, which I let rest for 30 minutes. The runnings were crystal clear after recirculating a quart. I sparged with 6 gallons of liquor acidified to pH 6.0 with 88% lactic acid. I collected 7.5 gallons of wort, boiled for 75 minutes and force cooled to 65F in 12 minutes with a 2 stage immersion chiller. After whirlpooling and allowing the wort to settle for an hour, I collected 5.25 gallons of clear wort in the fermenter leaving 3 quarts in the kettle, which I'll recycle for starters. I pitched ~8 oz. of thick yeast slurry and aerated 2 minutes with O2 and an hour with air. Lag time after pitching the yeast was only 2 hours; fermentation has been vigorous for 48 hours now. I'll have to see how this batch turns out to know exactly what I'll do differently next time. I'll probably try the pale lager water recipe and will definitely mash in hotter, maybe low 160s. I'll adjust the hop schedule according to what kind of hop character the finished beer has. I'd like to find a little higher alpha Saaz. Can anyone recommend a decent commercial example of this style, maybe a domestic microbrew? All the PU I've bought has been in pathetic condition. Thanks again to everyone who contributed. I'll post a short follow up in about 12 weeks after I've had a taste. Cheers! John Thomasson The Seven Bucket Brewery Aledo, Texas Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 03:40:28 GMT From: "Stephen ." <sn55 at hotmail.com> Subject: yeast and antibiotics In a few years of reading HBD on and off I have seen many a mention of bacterial contamination of cultures but no advice on how to clean them up at the culturing stage using antibiotics. I dont work with yeast but there must be antibacterial antibiotics that are tolerated by yeast and which can be used to clean up cultures. I am not suggesting anything in case it is illegal where you hail from , but when I was a student the lab used to buy some of our antibiotics as capsules the same as those normally prescribed by a medical practitioner. Based on the concentration of active ingredient listed on the label we then just diluted in sterile water to an appropriate concentration. Some antibiotics such as tetracycline need to be dissolved in a small amount of another solvent such as ethanol before further diluting in the sterile water. A quick look in Merck Index will tell you which will dissolve and which will not. Does anybody have any information to add? Stephen Neate Adelaide, Australia ______________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 22:49:29 -0500 From: "Sean Richens" <srichens at sprint.ca> Subject: Yeast starters, nutrient, etc. Yeast nutrient costs $0.75-$1 for 5 g. Buy a packet of dry yeast and boil it with the malt extract. Debittered brewer's yeast at the hippie food store is cheaper and will also do. The key parameter missing in all of these posts on step sizes is the stage of fermentation. I do a pretty steep step-up, but I do my best to time it for high krausen in the starter. There is a significant, but not serious, difference if you let the yeast settle out. If you've done the calcs I believe you, but I suspect the 4X-8X ratio reflects commercial practice when re-pitching. The yeast are somewhat dormant and have to restart their metabolism before going aerobic and reproducing, compared to yeast that are budding like crazy. Kyle should read Steve Alexander's post in hbd #3147 about glucose, table sugar etc. Sure, kit instructions say to use glucose and many years ago I thought it worked OK, but if you're stepping up you risk extending the lag phase by letting your yeast get used to glucose. It costs a bug a lot of energy to produce enzymes and since the yeast needs hexokinase (glucose enzyme #1) anyway, it will drop the enzymes necessary for importing and hydrolysing maltose in a second if it can get away with it. If you want to save a few pennies, make an extra litre or two of wort when mashing in your next beer, and can it off from the boiler before chilling and pitching. At least then you're paying grain prices instead of DME prices. LME is about 2/3 the price in my area if you figure out the water content, you could use that. I just figure that a yeast starter is amortized over three or more batches, so I never worry about it. My step up method - smack pack into 1 L, that goes straight into 23 L (6 USG). Starts about 12 hours more slowly that totally optimal pitching. If I do trub removal I will repitch primary yeast, secondary yeast works fine also, even after 1 month in the case of lagers - goes off like a bomb at 50*F. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 21:32:39 -0700 From: "Jim Hinken" <jhinken at accessone.com> Subject: Competition Announcement Entries from all American Homebrewers Association style categories, including cider and mead, are now being accepted for the Brews Brothers Novembeerfest. Three bottles are required for each entry. The entry fee is U.S.$5 per entry. The standard AHA entry form and bottle labels may be used or contact Rick Star or Jim Hinken and entry forms will be sent by fax or e-mail. Entries will be accepted through October 31, 1998. Judging will be Saturday, November 6 at Larry's Homebrewing Supply, 7405 S. 212th St. #103, Kent, WA 98032. Entries may be shipped to Rick Star 7640 NE 123rd St. Kirkland WA 98034 (425) 821-9388 we_stars at msn.com Entries may also be dropped off at: Larry's Homebrewing Supply, 7405 S. 212th St. #103,Kent, WA 98032, 206-872-6846 Evergreen Brewing Supply, 12121 N.E. Northup Way, Suite 210, Bellevue, WA 98005, 206-882-9929 Cascade Brewing Supplies, 224 Puyallup Ave., Tacoma, WA 98421, 253-383-8980 This year's sponsors include: Bear Creek Brewing Beer Essentials Big Time Brewery and Alehouse Bob's Homebrew Supply Bottleworks Cascade Homebrew Supply Elysian Brewing Company Evergreen Brewing Supply Larry's Homebrew Supply Olde Towne Ale House Pacific Crest Brewery Puterbaugh Farms Stumbling Monk Snoqualmie Falls Brewing Company Jim Hinken jhinken at accessone.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 21:43:18 -0700 From: "Jim Hinken" <jhinken at accessone.com> Subject: Competition Announcement (again) I should proof read before I post. In the previous post, the entry deadline for the Brews Brothers Novembeerfest was Oct. 31, 1998. It should be Oct. 31, 1999. Jim Hinken Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 23:02:20 -0700 From: "Todd & Sherrel Crane" <thecranes at uswest.net> Subject: cleaning a calcified carboy Hello all, I have a quick question. I recently acquired a 6 1/2g carboy, that is in dire need of a good cleaning. It has a nice white film that covers it, I am under the impression it was left outside for a long time. I have soaked it with a heavy bleach/water mix, that didn't work. Then I tried using C.L.R., also to no avail. The last thing I tried was a Double Alkaline beer line cleaner, That also didn't work. Now for my questions.1) is it going to be clean enough to use? 2) if so will it produce off flavors, and if so what should I expect? 3) What else should I try to clean it with? thanks for the help Todd A. Crane thecranes at uswest.net Return to table of contents
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