HOMEBREW Digest #3246 Fri 11 February 2000

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  MaltMill and unmalted Wheat! (Robert Johnson)
  CO2 source around Salt Lake City area? (Brian Morgan)
  Michael Jackson World Beer Tour ("Richard")
  Bottle Fur (phil sides jr)
  Stop Pickin' on me! (Tony Barnsley)
  Re:Fermentap ("Mark Vernon")
  another momily shot to hxxx ("Nathaniel P. Lansing")
  Alcohol Formula ("A. J. deLange")
  Gears/yeast for CAP (JGORMAN)
  aeration & O2 (Demonick)
  That Darn Bottle Fur (Richard Foote)
  Digital Temperature Controllers ("Stephen and Carolyn Ross")
  Re: Baker's Yeast ? (Jeff Renner)
  Aerating--O2 vs. Shaking -- Evolves to -- How do YOU shake it. ("Peter J. Calinski")
  Marga Mulino Mill, Mash hopping, bakers yeast, agar (Dave Burley)
  Response to "Wierd Starter and Brew" (Vance J Stringham)
  RE:  Bottle Fur (Vance J Stringham)
  RE: Activated Carbon/O2 (LaBorde, Ronald)
  7th Annual America's Finest City Homebrew Competition ("Peter Zien")
  temp controller ("Jensen,Craig")
  Kevins new Marga Mill... (Badger Roullett)
  obtaining yeast from homebrew (JPullum127)
  Sake Koji ("Pannicke, Glen A.")
  Think that these guys have any homebrewers on staff? ("David Kerr")
  Gas Permeability of Cork (Graham Sanders)
  GA House Bill #1383 ("Mark Nelson")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 21:29:13 -0800 From: robert at bobbrews.com (Robert Johnson) Subject: MaltMill and unmalted Wheat! I have ground a lot of differant malts and grains with my MaltMill and I figure the problem is that you used a battery powered drill. I have done a lot of unmalted Wheat with mine in the 4 years I have had it. No Problem. I am using it with a 1/2 Drill running on variable speed depending on the grain I am using and by the way it is a fixed mill and works fine. Of course I did have the gear adapter put on. Robert (bobbrews) Johnson Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 22:40:25 -0700 From: Brian Morgan <brian.k.morgan at worldnet.att.net> Subject: CO2 source around Salt Lake City area? Hi - I'm getting ready to move from bottles to cornies - finally... Anyway, can anyone recommend an inexpensive source for a CO2 tank - small to medium size (10#?) around Salt Lake City or Ogden? I already have the regulator. Thanks! Brian Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 21:50:59 -0800 From: "Richard" <seaotter at orland.net> Subject: Michael Jackson World Beer Tour Has anyone in the US joined the Michael Jackson World Beer Tour? Basically, you pay about $35 a month for 12 import beers selected by Michael along with his tasting notes & opinions. Plus some discounts & member discussions on their web site (www.worldbeertour.com). I'm a little hesitant to try it since they don't say which beers they are going to send, other than that Michael selects them, they are seasonal and not otherwise readily available in the US. This is not an ad and I have no affiliation, etc. Just was curious if anyone else had taken the plunge and what your opinions were. Rich Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 01:45:59 -0500 From: phil sides jr <psides at carl.net> Subject: Bottle Fur This it too strange. I noticed bottle fur for the first time (in hundreds of batches) today while checking to see if my last bottled batch had carbonated yet. I was looking for the tell-tale dregs on the bottom of the bottle when I noticed fur clinging to one side of the bottle. I did however come up with two theories: 1. It is transmitted via the HBD..... or 2. It is caused by static electricity (hear me out on this one) It's winter in the northern hemisphere and in points too far south for winter the humidity is likely at an all year low. I monitor the humidity in my brewery/cellar (I am not quite sure why) and in the last 10 days have recorded my first ever humidity of less than 5% consistently. I keep my cellared bottles in cardboard six pack holders or case boxes which I am sure most if not all of us do. When you remove a bottle to look at it, you rub it along one or more sides of the cardboard. If you rub it on one, my theory suggests bottle fur on one side of the bottle. Likewise, if you rub it on more than one side, you get fur on more than one side. I did not leave it out to see if the fur went away (I drank it). So short of putting a bottle of homebrew in the dryer, how could we test this? If it involves a microwave, I'll let someone else attempt the experiment :-) But seriously, does anyone recall seeing bottle fur in the summer or when your humidity was high? Phil Sides, Jr. Concord, NH - -- Macht nicht o'zapft ist, Prost! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 09:40:28 -0000 From: Tony Barnsley <tony.barnsley at blackpool.gov.uk> Subject: Stop Pickin' on me! John Wilkinson Wrote >The scurrilous Aleman (his choice of moniker, not mine) wrote: Actually not the equally scurrilous Phil & Jill Yates is responsible >At least in the US "a pint's a pound" if not the the whole >world round. Ah, but in the UK, A Gallons is 10 lbs! >I don't mean to pick on the Scurrilous Aleman Don't Then! >>OH NO NOT AGAIN!!!! beer doesn't make you fat, It just gives you big >>bones! >It never gives me big bones. Just the opposite. Me neither, but I'm trying to work on it :> From: "Phil & Jill Yates" <yates at acenet.com.au> >>I think it fair to say I am not the most popular of posters on >>the HBD. I seem to have the uncanny ability to upset almost anyone. Hey You've not spoken to me since I asked if Burradoo was a sexual offence :> - -- Wassail! The Scurrilous Aleman Schwarzbad Lager Braueri, Blackpool, Lancs, UK Reply To Aleman At brewmaster Dot demon Dot co Dot uk ICQ 46254361 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 06:53:54 -0600 From: "Mark Vernon" <vernonm at goportable.com> Subject: Re:Fermentap Doug wrote: >Hello, > Has anybody tried a Fermentap? This is a setup which allows conical >fermentation through an inverted carboy. Can one easily harvest yeast >from the carboy using this setup? Does this setup work well for racking >without transferring trub? Is this system prone to leaking, or other >problems? Do you fill the carboy in an inverted position, or do you >manhandle and invert the carboy once it is full? > > Thanks for any information > J. Doug Brown Doug, I have been using the Fermentap for almost 2 years now with great success. Harvesting yeast is fairly easy, though the sides of a carboy are not quite steep enough to get all of the yeast out. As far as trub I drain it off the night before I transfer and then let the beer settle again and get very clear transfers. I have NEVER had any of my 3 Fermentaps leak, and i use in 5, 6 and 6.5 gal carboys. For primary I fill them and then flip them over when done. For the secondary I run a hose from both out ports, and use my co2 tank to push the beer into the secondary by running a line to the racking cane in the primary, all this to a secondary carboy that was full of water and evacutated with co2, so no areation during transfer. If you have any question, or want some diagrams/pictures let me know. As usual, YMMV no affiliation with Fermentap yada yada yada Mark Vernon Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 08:20:31 -0500 From: "Nathaniel P. Lansing" <delbrew at compuserve.com> Subject: another momily shot to hxxx James said, "Call the local FDA agent in Seattle and tell them to give Wyeast a visit. I bet theyed love to see if pathogens are being grown by them. :-)" I guess that means the old momily of "No known pathogens exist in beer" is out the window. And now I wonder what the non-yeast cell count is for YeastLabs, White's, and BrewTech is. Is that info available?? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 13:54:53 +0000 From: "A. J. deLange" <ajdel at mindspring.com> Subject: Alcohol Formula I find that Balling's formulas for alcohol are quite accurate in comparison with values obtained by distillation. In this method you determine a factor, f, from the original gravity: f = .39661 + .0017091p + 1.0788e-5 p^2 where p is the original gravity in Plato and then multiply this by the difference in original and final extract also in Plato to get the ABW. You could probably use f = .4187 which s the value for 12P as an approximation for the majority of beers you brew. ABW = f(p - m) where m is the apparant final extract. To get ABV multiply ABW by the specific gravity and divide by 0.79. As Specific gravity is typicall 1.010 or so you can usually neglect this step. The methods major inaccuracy is realized where yeast produce more or less than the nominal 0.11 grams of yeast per 2 grams of sugar. This is only an issue if the yeast mass is dramatically different from 0.11 grams. A doubling of the yeast quantity prduced would lead to at most a 10% error i.e.percent of percent, not percent ABW. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 09:41:00 -0500 From: JGORMAN at steelcase.com Subject: Gears/yeast for CAP I have a small 12V DC motor the I use on my mill. There is a gear box on it to reduce the rpms. I keep stripping the nylon gears. Does anyone have a source for replacement gears? I want to put in a more resilient one maybe made out of powdered metal or a cast iron. Secondly, has anyone ever used Wyeast Bavarian (2206 I think) for a CAP? What is the preferred adjunct? Rice? Corn? Both? I once read someplace that you want about 15%? What amount do others use? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 07:11:05 -0800 From: Demonick <demonick at zgi.com> Subject: aeration & O2 The recent aeration and O2 thread prompted me to dig out the following previous posts from a couple luminaries: I've snipped the irrelevant verbiage. Domenick Venezia Venezia & Company, LLC Maker of PrimeTab (206) 782-1152 phone (206) 782-6766 fax orders demonick at zgi dot com FREE PrimeTab SAMPLES! Enough for three 5 gallon batches. Fax, phone, or email: name, shipping address (no P.O.B.) and phone number. (I won't call. It's for UPS in case of delivery problems). Sorry, lower 48 only. - ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Jun 94 09:37:32 -0500 From: gjfix at utamat.uta.edu (George J Fix) Subject: Wort Aeration <snip> ... Lengthy O2 feeds were used to make sure the saturation limit was achieved. We are currently doing the dynamic tests, where O2 levels are recorded as a function of time at various feed rates. All tests were done with a Zahm and Nagel tank with a .2 micron diffusing stone attached to the gas line. <snip> In the static tests the saturation limit decreased with increasing temperature. This was expected, and indeed this effect can be deduced from theoretical considerations. A second effect that is not as well known is that the saturation limit also decreases with wort gravity. We reran each of the cases at least twice to check on the reproducibility of the numbers, and so I am confident that the measurements are accurate. If this is the case, then saturation values for water are not a reliable guide for what actually occurs for real beer wort. 12.5 C 15 C 20C DO SG DO SG DO SG ----- ------- ---- ------- ----- ------- 8.1 1.030 7.5 1.030 6.5 1.030 7.7 1.040 7.1 1.040 6.2 1.040 6.9 1.060 6.3 1.060 5.6 1.060 5.7 1.080 5.5 1.080 5.0 1.080 In the above DO stands for dissolved O2 levels in mg/l, while SG stands for wort gravity. Dissolved O2 can be hazardous to yeast once DO levels approaches the high teens (in mg/l). Our results indicate that there is no way such levels can be reached with beer wort no matter how much O2 is injected. George Fix - ----------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 3 Jan 1996 19:51:25 -0500 From: ajdel at interramp.com (A. J. deLange) Subject: Aeration/Crabtree/Lime/Freezing Point In a recent experiment I found the following levels of dissolved oxygen (relative to saturation) in 2.5 gal of water in a 5 gallon carboy (1) shaken VERY vigorously; (2) aerated with compressed air bubbled through an airstone with gentle swirling and (3) pure oxygen bubbled through an airstone with gentle swirling: Time Shaking Compressed Air Oxygen 1 minute 55% 40% 85% 2 70 62 145 3 75 75 - 4 80 82 5 82 90 6 84 92 8 87 98 D.O. level at time 0 was about 7% in all cases. Thus shaking the carboy for a short period of time is not terribly effective and the agitation must be quite violent. This is the reason the carboy was only filled half full. It would be impossible to agitate it violently enough if full. The key to getting oxygen to dissolve is tiny bubbles dispersed throughout. That is why the air stone is so effective. Note that the amount of O2 which will dissolve is a pretty strong function of temperature with saturation (100%) being about 8 mg/l at room temperature and close to 15 mg/l near freezing. Also note that it is quite possible to acheive and maintain >100% when using a carboy. If, in the course of oxygenation, the headspace becomes filled with oxygen and is then sealed off with a fermentation lock the amount of dissolved O2 will stay close to its value at the time the O2 was shut off. In the experiment which lead to the numbers above the DO level peaked at 14.2 mg/l (154% at 18.3C) and was found to be at 14.1 mg/l (158% at 20.2C) 22 hours later. If this is a concern, after aeration with pure oxygen, blow a stream of clean compressed air into the carboy after clear the O2. The DO level will then equilibrate with the O2 in the air and you will arrive at 100% fairly quickly. Note also that O2 is somewhat less soluble in concentrated worts than in water. For example, 20P wort equilibarates with the atmosphere at about 85% of the water saturation level. A.J. deLange Numquam in dubio, saepe in errore! ajdel at interramp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 10:13:40 -0500 From: Richard Foote <rfoote at mindspring.com> Subject: That Darn Bottle Fur Glen A. Pannicke writes about bottle fur: >This is the perfect explanation of of the pheomenon I witnessed however, my >bottles were coated coated around the entire bottom 1/4 of the bottle and >not to a single side. The coating fell to the bottom when the bottles were >agitated. I have only witnessed this in one brew and now I remember the >specifics: >English style barley wine >SG: 1.110 >FG: 1.022 (or therabouts) >Primary fermentation using White Labs Irish Ale Yeast (WLP004) >Secondary fermentation using a mixture of White Labs Irish and White Labs >Burton Ale (WLP023) >No fining agents used >The beer endured much rousing over the long secondary fermentation >Conditioned in brown bottles, closed case (dark) in my utility room (warmest >room) for 2 weeks >I believe this is definately a yeast phenomenon which may be attributed to a >combination of the yeast strain and the environmental conditions. Dave also >mentions charge and that rings a bell about some yeasts which do cling to >the glass walls when they settle out because of charge. Dusty yeasts?!? It >would be interesting to see what others have observed. I too have observed bottle fur in my barley wine that was just bottled. Y2K English style barley wine SG: 1.100 FG: 1.025 (or therabouts) Primary fermentation using YCKC British Ale Secondary fermentation--roused existing yeast No fining agents used Bottled with 300ml approx. starter culture using YCKC British Ale and 1/2 c. corn sugar Conditioned in brown bottles, closed case (dark) in my basement for 4 weeks and counting I think it may a simpler explanantion. Looking for a common thread here... Some claim that fur forms only on one side; others say it forms on all sides. Some were exposed to light; others were kept in the dark. Some say electrical charges may be at play. In my recent case and in Glen's case, they were both barley wines. You tend to pitch a bunch of yeast when brewing barley wine. In fact, Glen pitched yeast twice and I pitched a small starter culture when I primed and bottled to ensure carbonation. Could it just be the quantity of yeast going into the bottles? Could it be the yeast colonizing out onto the glass surface into large, visable clumps? Could it be this happens in our fermenters as well? I'm going to check my bottles tonight to look for fur location. Rick Foote Murrayville, GA Whistle Pig Brewing Co. (aka my basement) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 09:35:58 -0600 From: "Stephen and Carolyn Ross" <rosses at sprint.ca> Subject: Digital Temperature Controllers Wayne asks about similar temperature controllers. Advanced Brewing Systems http://www.advancedbrew.com/future.html has one by Ranco: "Digital Electronic Temperature Controller by Ranco Controls cooling or heating from -30F to 220F. Adjustable temperature differential is 1F to 30F" I don't think it's traceable. We sell it www.paddockwood.com/catalog_equipment.html ), but haven't used it yet, although we are planning to use it for our in-house brewing system. Hope this helps a bit....I'll gladly post more when we've actually used it and can report more useful data! ______________________________________________ Stephen Ross Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies, Saskatoon, SK www.paddockwood.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 10:41:18 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Baker's Yeast ? "Francois Zinserling" <francois at designtech.co.za> asks >A few mentions have been made about using brewer's yeast for baking. What >about the opposite ? >Could I brew with baker's yeast ? Will it affect sanitization (sanity ??). > >Since bread gets baked at temperatures around and above 200 degrees C, the >suppliers of bakers yeast may not be too concerned as to what could be >lurking inside the packets. This may prove too much for a well sanitized >brew. Many years ago (upwards of 20), as I recall, someone wrote in Zymurgy that they had good luck pitching fresh compressed baker's yeast cut from the inside of a one pound block. They reported clean ferments. I suspect that the large amount of yeast gets fermentation off to a fast enough start to overcome other problems. I also think that the producers of baker's yeast way want to be pretty careful about contamination for their own security, even thought it wouldn't make much difference, as you say, to the baker. The problem with baker's yeast for brewing is that it is not very flocculent. Back in the bad old days, though, we couldn't get fresh brewer's yeast, and it may not have been that bad compared to the dry packet alternatives. It may be that in South Africa you face a similar problem. Hope not. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 10:35:48 -0500 From: "Peter J. Calinski" <PCalinski at iname.com> Subject: Aerating--O2 vs. Shaking -- Evolves to -- How do YOU shake it. Well I was pretty wet. In fact I was dead wrong. I was under the impression that the amount of O2 that would dissolve in a liquid was a function of the temperature of the liquid (only). I have been corrected (quite politely) that it also depends on the pressure of the O2 (duh). I better stick to something I know about (now what could that be?). Conclusion: With pure O2 the pressure is about 1 atmosphere while with air it is 20% of that. Thus you can get (potentially) almost 5 times as much O2 in the wort using pure O2. (With all kinds of caveats on how long it takes, how well it is distributed, and how long it takes to equilibrate down to 20% of an atmosphere etc.) Thanks to Bill Frazier, Joseph Gibbens, Roger Ayotte, Lou Heavner, and AJ for the correction. Next Step: As a result of some of the communications, and at the risk of blowing my credibility another time, I ask the carboy shakers, "How often do you let more air into the carboy". In my experience it takes only a few shakes for most of the air in the headspace to dissolve into the wort. If you don't replenish the air every few seconds, it is an uphill battle to try to get anymore dissolved. Also, if you let more air in every few seconds, you know when you are done because you no longer hear the air rush in. It seems that is a better indication than "shake for 4 minutes". Or am I in for a second bath? Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 11:13:16 -0500 From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Marga Mulino Mill, Mash hopping, bakers yeast, agar Brewsters: Kevin Mueller ( German for "miller") received a Marga Mulino Mill for Christmas and asks for some pointers. I suggest that you search the HBD archives for all the milling discussions ( if you have a lifetime!). If not, check out the archives under Marga Mulino for my discussions as well as others'. I have used a Marga Mulino for some years with complete satisfaction ( Yadda) due to its adjustability. I suggest you motorize it with your drill motor after you are familiar with it, but set it up so it will stop automatically ( mine pulls the plug as I have the motor just loosely resting and a stuck mill rotates the drill body and pulls the plug) if you get the inevitable junk in the malt which can ruin any mill. I cut and filed a bolt to fit into the mill in place of the handle. I opened the hopper exit so that I get full flow and added a gallon milk bottle upside down to act as a larger hopper. Set your mill so only two rollers are active. Mill your malt twice, once to crack the grain and remove the husk, second to mill it finer for better extraction. This way you will then get the equivalent of a four roll mill. This will give better extraction and better lautering than you can get with a single milling regardless of the setting. Believe it or not this is faster than a single milling at the narrower setting. My settings of 0.080 in. and 0.060 in. measured with a feeler guage from the auto store will give you an approximate idea. These settings will have to be changed depending on the malt. Other advantages of the Marga is its ability to chip (which Marga calls "flake") rice for use as an adjunct before the goods cooking and, by using all three rollers, you can also make various flours for baking, should you be so inclined. - --------------------------------- Brian Lundeen asks about mash hopping in which the hops are added to the mash instead of the wort to allow the easy filtration of pelleted hops. Never having tried it, I think the problem with this technique is that hop resins will not be extracted by the rolling boiling of the wort nor the isomerization take place which makes them soluble and why we boil wort and hops for an hour or more. Hop tannins will likely react with the proteins remaining in the spent grains. Translation? Low bitterness will be exhibited, to a large degree. It may be a way to extract some hop oils as in the act of pelleting, the oil glands are broken, but these will be largely adsorbed by the malt in my opinon. Any hop oils which make it to the copper will be steam distilled away during the boil as is normally experienced with bittering hops. Overall result - a poor use of hops. In my opinion, it probably won't work very well, but I'd like to see the results of a trial in which bittering and hop oils were measured quantitatively. I don't quite understand what is meant by the same results as FWH althuogh no quantitation has been doen to establish this. Especially, Id like to see quantitative analysis if the hops are added to a decoction, where there is some possiblity of isomerization. The loss of tannins may be a plus, as I theorize that this is the explanation for the softness of FWH . - -------------------------------- Francois Zinserling of South Africa asks if it OK to use bakers yeast for brewing. Lots of homebrew was made with bakers yeast in this country during our ill-conceived Prohibition era. Does that make it good? Nope. There's a reason brewers yeasts exist (Thank Goodness!) and that is because a large part of the flavor profile and clarity of a beer is due to the yeast used. Try splitting a wort the next time in which you use bakers yeast versus a brewers yeast and see the difference. - --------------------------- Hmmm, Liz Blades claims that agar, as part of her veggie diet, works to clarify beer and yet agar is a carbohydrate ( is this correct?) Any idea how this would work? I imagine the agar carbohydrate sol to be negatively charged and I believe so is yeast. Do you see a change in bitterness when you use agar as you do with gelatin? Liz, how does agar compare in effectiveness to gelatin? - -------------------------- Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 10:46:52 -0500 From: Vance J Stringham <vancenjeannie at juno.com> Subject: Response to "Wierd Starter and Brew" I, ran into a similar situation using the WYeast 1056 - American Ale. I double stepped my started to about .6 quart (567 ml). I was brewing a standard amber ale but was incorperating 2 lbs of honey so I wanted the yeast to get a good foothold from the start. Within 12 hrs I had a rolling fermentation going. By the next day the foam and krausen had filled the 8 inches of head space in the 6.5 gal carboy and I had to put on a blow hose. Now, 10 days later, it is still bubbling away - once about every 17 seconds out of the airlock. Smell is still very nice but this is a first for me with regards to length of initial fermentation. Admittedly I am still a newbie brewer - only my 6th batch so I have a ton of learning to do. Regardless, I hope to rack over to a secondary fermentor within the next 3 days. Vance J. Stringham Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 11:03:51 -0500 From: Vance J Stringham <vancenjeannie at juno.com> Subject: RE: Bottle Fur All, my brews have had that. Since I am still a new brewing, 6 batches, I just assumed this was normal. I have tasted other homebrewer's beers and aside from some obvious experience related differences, mine faired pretty well. I have bottled all my batches and in bottles varying in size from 8oz to 1 liter. Each and everyone develped the white-powdery fur. Once bottle they were placed into a dark closet where the temperature remains +-2 degress ambient. I have never used finings, gelatins, or irish moss and do not mind the chill haze. I have always assumed it was just the yeast clinging to the sides of the bottle. You want to talk about nasties?! I have had one contamination of one bottle in my as-of-yet short brewing career. I took a bottle of red ale over to my mentor's house and proudly handing the 16 oz concoction over. He held it up to the light to check clarity only to discover what appeared to be a salamander clinging to the inside of the bottle. He cautiously popped the top and poured the brew into a glass. Smelled good, relativly clear, but was significantly more carbonated (but not a gusher) than others I have tried. He fished the amphibian looking thing out of the bottle and gave the slimy grayish looking organism(s) a good once over. I don't know how but somehow that one bottle was infected with some sort of fungus. That is the only thing I can figure with this one. It was certainly a fungus of some sort. I was brave enough to give the brew a sip - tasted great! The remaining was poured down the sink, however. Neither Rick or I were incinded to drink something this thing had been growing in. Sort of brings to mind the "eye of newt" recipe! Vance J. Stringham, N8UGV Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 10:48:39 -0600 From: rlabor at lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald) Subject: RE: Activated Carbon/O2 >From: AJ <ajdel at mindspring.com> >The trick with respect to brewing is to get the oxygen level up to about >200% (actually, individual yeast strains have particular levels they are >happiest with) and pitch enough yeast that they will consume the oxygen >before it has time to escape to the air. With a carboy, sealing the neck >with a lock keeps the PaO2 over the wort high for a long time. In a >fermenter, the high volume to surface area ratio prevents rapid escape. >If the yeast are plentiful enough they will consume the oxygen in an >amazingly short time - half an hour in one experiment I did. Which makes me wonder, if you feed filtered air into the starter continously for 4 hours the O2 is replenished as the yeast use it up. Would this not keep the yeast happier?? Ron Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor at lsumc.edu http://members.xoom.com/rlabor/ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 09:19:38 -0800 From: "Peter Zien" <PZ.JDZINC at worldnet.att.net> Subject: 7th Annual America's Finest City Homebrew Competition >Call For Entrants, Judges, and Stewards: >> >The 7th Annual America's Finest City Homebrew Competition in San >Diego, Ca. is less than 1 month away. The contest is scheduled for Saturday, March 4, with some categories being judged on Friday, March 3rd. The judging will take place at the Windemere clubhouse in La Jolla. The entry window for shipping beers is February 14 thru February 25. See www.softbrew.com/afchbc for complete rules, instructions, and the new 1999 style guidelines. Please ship entries to: AFCHBC c/o AleSmith Brewing Company 9368 Cabot Drive San Diego, CA. 92126 >> >Register your entries at our convenient on-line site: www.softbrew.com/afchbc If you are a BJCP judge, or otherwise qualified, please register to judge or steward at the same site. >> >As a show of appreciation, QUAFF board members have brewed a Commemorative Beer that will be distributed to all participating judges, >stewards, and staff. We've chosen a special style (with an inventive twist) to tempt you, so register now to judge/steward and save your bottle. >> >Thanks for helping us make America's Finest City Homebrew Competition one > of California's premier homebrewing events! >Peter Zien >AFC2000 Organizer >pz.jdzinc at worldnet.att.net >> >> > Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 09:50:51 -0800 From: "Jensen,Craig" <cjensen at toraycompam.com> Subject: temp controller Wayne asks: "Any ideas on how to get Control Company to bump up the controller set point into brewing temp range or know of a similar design with a brewing friendly temp range?" As far as Control Company, I don't have any answers, but I recently purchased a nice digital temp controller from Williams Brewing that perfect for brewing, and is versatile too. It can be set for heating or cooling, the temperature range is -20 to 200F, adjustable differential (1 to 30F), and a submersible probe. Check it out http://www.williamsbrewing.com/ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 11:02:45 -0800 From: Badger Roullett <branderr at microsoft.com> Subject: Kevins new Marga Mill... From: kevin m mueller <kmmuellr at engin.umd.umich.edu> > I was wondering if any of you have had experience with it, and could give me > pointers on the best adjustments or modifications that I could/should make. > Also, what factory setting gives the best crush. > Its an Italian mill made by Marcato, called the Marga Mulino. It just so happens that I have one of these, and it just so happens that I asked a similar question a while back, and it also just so happens that I gathered all that information together into a web page which you can find at my brewing web page.... http://www.nwlink.com/~badger/badgbeer.html I have found this mill to be a nice easy to modify mill for me. It works fine, and I made a nice drill adaptor for it to automate it. It works for me... YMMV of course. badger Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 14:06:54 EST From: JPullum127 at aol.com Subject: obtaining yeast from homebrew i have some alt beers i made with wyeast 1338 euoropean ale yeast a few months ago. i would like to try reusing this yeast in a sweet stout next week since it has low attenuation and a nice malty taste. i have never tried reculturing from a bottle of beer. i have some 150 ml bottles that will take an airlock and stopper and could step up after a couple days to a larger volume. can anyone give me some practical advice on bottle culturing or would i be smarter to use some nottingham dry yeast i have on hand but which would result in a dryer beer than i want in a sweet stout. i especially could use an idea of how many grams of dry extract in 50-100ml of water for the initial mini starter. thanks to all Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 14:40:08 -0500 From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke at merck.com> Subject: Sake Koji Fellow Brewers, I am attempting to brew a sake however, finding readily available koji is a difficult task. I probably could order Cold Mountain Rice Koji at an exorbitant fee (plus shipping) but would rather not go that route. Fred Eckhardt says under his section dedicated to koji: "There is a Chinese product called meng or chiu (labeled "dry yeast" in some chinese markets). This has the mold plus yeast and lactobacillus, whereas koji does not have yeast. These are small marble-sized balls (sold in packets of 2). They are used as both yeast and koji." He further defines 'jui men' as "Chinese yeast balls with three types of fungi described (under the definition of jiu-niang), plus a binder, which is rice and wheat flour and vegetable juice, alternately 'jiu ben' or 'jiu bing'. 'Jiu-niang' is then defined as "Chinese koji, with three types of fungi: saccharomyces type yeast, lactobacillus and an aspergillus type mold." I was able to obtain yeast balls from my local oriental food market. Sure enough, they're a marble-sized, pressed compound and are packaged 2 per bag. My wife is Chinese and can read the package. She says that it's labeled as yeast (something might be lost in the translation here) and that it's what her mom uses to make a sweet, slightly fermented rice dish. But she's not sure about the actual composition (no ingredient list). My questions: Does anyone know EXACTLY what these balls may be? Is it really jiu men, jiu ben or jiu bing? Does it contain both yeast and mold? How can I seperate out the mold from the yeast? (I have another, more trusted source of sake yeast) Has anyone made drinkable sake from these balls? Keyword: drinkable... Why do I bother on this seemingly impossible mission? ;-) Glen Pannicke Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 15:20:12 -0500 From: "David Kerr" <dkerr at semc.org> Subject: Think that these guys have any homebrewers on staff? http://www.streetadvisor.com/Article/Article.asp?aid=1666 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 07:54:46 +1000 From: Graham Sanders <GrahamS at bsa.qld.gov.au> Subject: Gas Permeability of Cork G'Day all Yes I'm still on this Biere De Garde thing. I will be doing an update posting next week (hopfully). Received some interesting E-mails thats worth mentioning. I want to explore all options, and one possibility mentioned was oxygenation. Now I'm not up on my gas dynamics, so the question to the forum is. In any bottle that is corked under pressure of CO2, does the properities of cork allow the diffusion of O2 into the bottle? Shout Graham Sanders Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 17:29:31 -0500 From: "Mark Nelson" <menelson at mindspring.com> Subject: GA House Bill #1383 Folks, (Sorry for the slightly off-topic post - HB 1383 is to allow beers into the state of Georgia (US) which are above 6%.) HB 1383 passed the Regulated Beverages Committee today!! I wanted to ask you for help in contacting as many representatives to express your support. Your representative's district numbers and phone numbers can be found on the web at http://www2.state.ga.us/Legis/1999_00/house/indd.htm (for the House of Reps) and http://www2.state.ga.us/Legis/1999_00/senate/indd.htm (for the Senate). I understand that there is a phone number that will give you the same info, but I don't have it right now. (If you're a Georgian, please call your representative ASAP - this bill could be up for a floor vote as early as Wednesday next week.) Mark Nelson Return to table of contents
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