HOMEBREW Digest #3260 Mon 28 February 2000

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  advice on some new grains... (darrell.leavitt)
  Peat smoked porter (Ted McIrvine)
  Misc. (Jeff Lutes)
  Secondaries and Weizen... (Cave)
  hp and pulley for motorized mill query (scott)
  self-priming pumps (Ray Kruse)
  Burnt Liquor (OSULLS)
  Competition Announcement - Call for Judges & Stewards ("John Stegenga")
  Foam stopper followup (Pat Babcock)
  Trials & errors of a beginner ("Wayne or Cathy Love")
  Taste threshold for lactic acid? ("lee preimesberger")

* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * AOL members: Visit the AOL Homebrewing boards before they're gone! * Go to aol://5863:126/mBLA:185893 * Entry deadline for the Mayfare Homebrew Competition is 3/15/00 * See http://www.maltosefalcons.com/ for more information Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we canoot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITORS on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2000 10:55:13 -0500 (EST) From: darrell.leavitt at plattsburgh.edu Subject: advice on some new grains... I just picked up a bag of Torrefied Barley Flakes as well as a bag of Roasted Brown Rice Flakes. I am assuming that the barley flakes can be used much like wheat flakes...ie a pound or so per 5 gallon batch...and that this may contribute to head retention (the literature from G+P [Ontario] states that the head will have smaller bubbles than torrified wheat... But I am uncertain as to the rice. I am going to experiment with about up to a max of 1/3 of the grain bill with the rice...to try to make some lighter brews/....Does anyone have experience with either ot these? I am especially in need of advice re the rice... Thankyou in advance...and thanks to Dave and others who maintain this digest! ..Darrell <Plattsburgh, NY> Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2000 15:44:46 -0800 From: Ted McIrvine <McIrvine at ix.netcom.com> Subject: Peat smoked porter A few months ago, I had an off-list discussion in which Jeff McNally brought to my attention this useful information: > Peated malt is rated in parts per million of phenol. The light is 4-6ppm and > the heavy is 5-12 ppm. The light is a little less variable in its ppm and > thus would be more consistent from batch to batch. > > This was posted to the HBD on Sun, 6 Oct 96 by Don Van Valkenburg. I've experimented actively with these malts before and after, and in a malty brew 2 oz of light-smoked peat malt will give it a "what is that?" flavor, and 4 oz. will be noticeable without being overwhelming. I've had wildly varying results with greater amounts of the heavily-smoked malt and discontinued using it. Peat-smoked malt has been controversial in this forum. Just as some of us believe that corn should not be used in beer-making, there is another contingent that believes that neither peat in general nor phenols in particular belong in beer. But hey, I like the peat flavor. Cheers Ted in NY > Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 23:01:12 -0800 > From: John_E_Schnupp at amat.com > Subject: re: peat smoked porter > > Pete, > > >I need a bit of recipe help. I purchased 1 lb of peaked smoked grain from > >Brewers Resource a while back. Just tried the smoked porter at the VT Pub > >and Brewery in burlington. It was quite good with a subtle smoked flavor > >that I thought was interested and my SO hated. I would like to get a flavor > >similar. a smell of smoke and taste but not overwelming. > > What brought you to my neck of the woods? > > >Looking through past digests I have seen mention of about a 1/2 lb in a 5 > >gallon batch. Will this be too overwelming? Any experiences are gladly > >accepted. > > I brewed a smoked sweet stout that took 3rd place in the Green Mountain > Mashers competition last year. I used 1/4 lb of peated malt and there > was a good smoky flavor. This fall a brewed a smoked porter and used > 1/2 lb because I wanted some intense smoke flavor but barely got any. > > My notes indicate that I crushed the stout grain the day before brewing > (I don't have a mill so I use the one at the store) and I crushed the > grain for the porter about 6 days before brewing. In fact, I recall that > by the time I brewed my porter it was hard to even smell the smokiness > of the grains (as compared to a fresh crush). IMO, for fresh crushed > peated grains, a little goes a long way. I will use small amount of > fresh crushed peated grains from now on. Also, IMO, it's better > to underestimate and use more grain the next batch than to use too > much the first time and have something you don't enjoy drinking. > > John Schnupp, N3CNL > Dirty Laundry Brewery (temporarily closed) > Georgia, VT > 95 XLH 1200 > - -- Dr. Ted McIrvine McIrvine at Ix.Netcom.Com College of Staten Island/CUNY "Music is the hidden arithmetical exercise of a mind unconscious that is calculating." Gottfried Leibniz, quoted in Lorenz Mizler's Musikalische Bibliothek Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2000 14:52:45 -0600 From: Jeff Lutes <jlutes at osprey.net> Subject: Misc. Firstly, let me apologize for my comment about the spam that showed up. It was definitely not my intention to offend at all. In fact, the meaning behind my message seems to have been misconstrued. What I actually meant was that I was surprised that more of such junk doesn't show up on a regular basis. Hats off to you guys for keeping this place as clean as it has been! My humble apologies for any aggravation or frustration I caused. Kudos Pete! Gemus Brauen Haus 3.86394 S, 12.46223 W Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2000 14:34:27 -0800 From: Cave <cave at psc.org> Subject: Secondaries and Weizen... George de Piro writes that secondaries won't improve a weizen. I don't agree. There are three good reasons for a secondary for a Weizen. The first is to drop excessive yeast prior to bottling as this will reduce the consequences of autolysis in a bottle conditioned beer--racking usually facilitates yeast dropping out. The second is, in conjunction with aging and cold conditioning, you get a brighter and more stable product. Finally, if you are bottle conditioning with a lager yeast, it's best to minimize the amount of ale yeast in the beer, just in case you have a "funky happening going on" between the two yeast strains. I believe Eric Warnier covers some of this in his book. Presumably one should be able to minimize O2 pickup in a beer during racking if there is sufficient dissolved CO2 "fobbing" out of the beer to shield the process. Jim Cave Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2000 20:04:15 -0800 From: scott at wilderglass.com Subject: hp and pulley for motorized mill query Hellow fellow Brewsters....... I have been doing all grain batches for a while now and have been having a good time at it. It's now time to tinker with something--I want to motorize my roller mill. My query to the group is what horsepower motor? What diameter pulleys on the motor and roller shaft respectively? Thanks for help to one and all! Scott in Auburn, California Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 04:58:49 -0500 From: Ray Kruse <rkruse at krusecontrols.com> Subject: self-priming pumps I had made a previous request for information that anyone might have about self-priming pumps. I got some public responses here on the HBD, and a few private responses. I'd like to thank everyone who responded, and respond here to all who requested follow-up information. First, I did realize that self-priming pumps used to lift boiling or near boiling liquids could/would cause cavitation problems. What I was hoping for was information on a pump that could be used for gravity fed suction of boiling liquids, but could lift cooler products (like chilled wort or beer). The results of my research are that such a pump does not exist at prices which a home brewer can afford. However, I have found and tried a small pneumatic pump that satisfies my needs for self-priming pumping of chilled wort and beer. Bill Stewart of Moving Brews (no affiliation, satisfied customer) emailed me privately about a new product that MB was going to handle. After discussing it with him, I decided to purchase one and see what it would do. Here's the results: The Flowjet pump is gas powered (CO2, N2, Air), about the size of a softball, food grade, appears to be all plastic (no exposed or visible metal parts), can lift 15' of liquid and discharge 100' of head. Being a diaphragm pump, it has to potential to move a bit, so the recommendation is to physically mount it on a vertical surface. I built an inverted 'tee' from a piece of 2x6 that I had around the house, mounted the pump, and decided that I could do an initial test pump and sanitize at the same time. I filled a 7 gal fermenter with some Clorox (tm) and water, plumbed everything up, connected the gas line (CO2 in this case), set the regulator to 30 psi, and cracked the ball shutoff valve. The pump purged the air from the lines and started pumping a nice, steady stream of liquid. Just to see how much the pump could put out at 30 psi (it's rated up to 120), I opened the shutoff valve and immediately blew the hose fitting out of the pump. Only about a half-gallon of water ended up on the floor before I got it stopped. (It turns out that the little paddle thingie that I had to move out of the way in order to get the mounting screws into the 2x6 were actually containment clips for the fittings. Live and learn.) Yesterday I pumped 10 gallons of cold pilsner from primary to secondary. Things were never easier. Got everything pumped out of the primary, right down to the dregs and never had to lift anything heavier that the bucket of sanitizing solution. As an added point, I can agree with all the positive statements that I've read here about Moving Brews. Nice people, quite knowledgeable, informative and responsive. Ray Kruse Glen Burnie, PRMd rkruse at bigfoot.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 16:11:09 +0000 From: OSULLS at uk.ibm.com Subject: Burnt Liquor I have used an Elecrtrim Brewbin for about 10 years for all grain mash and boils. It is an elecric kettle element in the bottom of a plastic brewbin, on the outsdise of the bin clamps a sensitive thermostat which switches power off/on to the kettle element. I have used Dave Line's methods of mashing(NON STEPPED) IE. from a Grain/Liqour strike heat of 60/C whilst continually stirring the grist, raise the temp to 66/C then leave to mash at this temp until starch end point. I have never had any problem with the liquour burning on the element with this method. Having recently read about protien rests, and stepped mashing methods I decided to give it a try. Strike heat at 54/C with 7Lbs Grain so it settled out at 50/C. Left this for 30 mins. When I went to raise the temp to 65/C for the next step(by raising the thermostat setting) the kettle element started to audibly bubble & burn the liquor(within 10 seconds), and boy did it stink!!. I quickly switched off, transferred the mix to another bucket while I inspected the element, which was blackened with burnt liquor. I suspected the element was at fault so I put in a spare I have, but the same thing happened again within 10 seconds. I eventually dumped the batch and started again. Since I have never had any problem with burning liquour before, is it something that is being created( Protiens/nutrients?) during the protien rest period that is burning on the element??? Anyone had similar problems???????? Sean O'Sullivan Swansea UK. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 12:23:16 -0500 From: "John Stegenga" <bigjohns at mindspring.com> Subject: Competition Announcement - Call for Judges & Stewards Excuse the intrusion folks, but we thought you and your club members might like this information: The Covert Hops Society Proudly Presents: Peach State Brew-off 2000! The 7th annual incarnation of the greatest home brewing competition in the southeast! May 6th, 2000 10am - 5pm at: Black Bear Brewing Co. 981 Ashby Street, Atlanta GA, 30318 Featuring FABULOUS PRIZES! * Every First Place beer wins a vial of White Labs Yeast * 50lb of grain for the club with the most points - from Briess * SPECIAL FIRST TIMERS PRIZE! - $25.00 worth of brewing supplies! * Prizes for 1st, 2nd, and 3rd in the Best of Show round! * All ribbon winners entered into a drawing for prizes including a 40qt Polar Ware kettle with false bottom, $50.00 certificate from Crosby and Baker, and 4 drawings for 8oz (each draw) of Hops! Please visit our website: www.coverthops.com for entry forms and a complete list of prizes and sponsors! Not on the net yet? Call Marlon Hurst, competition organizer, at 770-761-9448 PS: CALLING ALL JUDGES AND STEWARDS! Please contact Marlon, or E-Mail COVERTHOPS at YAHOO.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2000 21:32:48 -0500 From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Foam stopper followup Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Well, it's been two feedings under the foam stopper for the second flask. Same yeast from the same culture. And they're both acting pretty much the same, and still different from the remaining one under an airlock. Nice, dense kraeusen of longer duration than that under the airlock. Still, to George's comment regarding the ability to "shift" the performance of the yeast, the original one from under the foam stopper STILL has a longer lasting kraeusen than its twin. I wonder if the new one will catch up to it eventually? Not very scientific, but interesting nonetheless... - See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock/ "I'm certainly no god..." Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 19:20:31 -0400 From: "Wayne or Cathy Love" <lovews at auracom.com> Subject: Trials & errors of a beginner I've been lurking on the sidelines for the past several weeks and have been really enjoying the various postings including the "friendly bantering". As some one fairly new to homebrewing and one who still has not taken the plunge to all grain brewing I do find a lot of the post somewhat over my head, but never the less has gleaned a fair amount of useful information. Some of this information could be enhanced if I knew what all the abbreviations and acronyms stood for. Although these appear to be common knowledge to most of the regular posters I'm sure I am not alone with some of the other newcomers to this pastime who would appreciate if some kind soul could take the time to prepare a list of the most often used abbrev. and acronyms and what they stood for. For the past five or six batches,(5 gal.) I've been using a fairly basic recipe: 4 lb unhopped amber malt extract 2 lb dry malt extract 1/2 lb crystal malt ( Steeped in a bag for approx 10 to 15 min, till the wort reaches near boil) 1 1/2 oz fuggle hops for bitter 1/2 oz fuggles for flavor and aroma 1/2 oz fuggles in a hop bag for dry hopping in the keg 1 pkg wyeast smack pac 1056 american ale (2 stepped to 3 liters) I cool my wort to pitching temp (72 F)using a wort chiller before pitching and aerate using an aquarium pump, air filter and airstone. I ferment in a glass carboy submersed in a picnic cooler filled with water. I keep the water temp at 64 f using an aquarium heater with good activity starting within 5 to 6 hours. Through out this I've been fairly anal about sanitation, using tsp to wash all items and idaphor to sanitize. 1) The problem is that twice now I've had a batch that has an almost musty unpleasant after taste. In both cases, I believe the problem occurred in batches where I re-used my yeast cake from the primary fermentor by just pouring the next batch of cooled wort right on top of the cake after siphoning the original wort to the secondary. I usually transfer to the secondary after 7 to 9 days. 2) This brings up another question. Is there a standard set of terminology used to describe off taste? 3) How long and at what temperature can I keep my ale in the secondary fermentor before I could run into problems? 4) How long and at what temp and under what pressure can I keep ale in my corny kegs? 5) I need to purchase a new stock pot. Has anybody had any problems using aluminum instead of stainless steel? For about half the cost I can buy a much thicker and sturdier aluminum one. Well I hope that I haven't been to long winded and as my glass is empty I must move on. thanks wayne love Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 20:55:14 -0600 From: "lee preimesberger" <lp at neosoft.com> Subject: Taste threshold for lactic acid? I just bottled my first batch where I tried to treat my water with lactic acid (my water is loaded with carbonates and comes out of the tap at > 8 pH). I ended up using what seemed to be an obscene amount of it considering it's strength ( ~ 1 teaspoon of 88% solution for a mash of ~ 11 lbs pale malt). From the bit I snagged from the bottling bucket, it sort of seemed to have a weird taste, I think. I might be nuts, though. :-) So, for the brewing collective... 1) How much of this stuff can you dump into the mash without it being detectable or killing all your friends or family members? 2) How much do people who know what they're doing normally use of this stuff? :-) lp Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 02/28/00, by HBD2HTML version 1.2 by K.F.L.
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96