HOMEBREW Digest #327 Wed 20 December 1989

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  need substitue for nonexistant malt (JEEPSRUS)
  Various replies (John DeCarlo)
  Yeast starters, how are they made ? (albano)
  UPDATE: Hard Cider Effort (Michael Berry)
  Steel kettles (olson)
  Cranbeery Ale update (Tim Phillips)
  Glass grenades (sounds like a terrorist weapon) ("Sushi's fine -- as long as it's properly cooked.")
  Re:  Homebrew Digest #326 (December 19, 1989) (Ed Falk)
  garlic recipes (UNLV Student ACM Chapter)
  Yet more discussion of glass vs. plastic carboys (Mark Stevens) <stevens at stsci.edu>

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 18 Dec 89 14:59 PST From: JEEPSRUS <ROBERTN%FM1 at sc.intel.com> Subject: need substitue for nonexistant malt Hello out there in beer net land! I have a couple of questions which may prove to be unanswerable, concerning an old family brewing recipe. Any help y'all might come up with would be deeply appreciated! My grandfather used to homebrew and sell beer in the late 1920's and early 1930's. He told me his recipe, and I'd like to try it, but I don't know what malt or yeast I should use. My first problem is that he used Pabst Blue Ribbon malt. It is my understanding that that malt has not been available for the last ten years or so. Is this true? If Pabst is not available, does anyone know of a malt which is similar? I realize it is difficult to compare any malt to something that hasn't been around for ten years, but it's worth a try! As for yeast, I'm not sure what would be proper to use. His 12 gallon recipe used about 5 pounds of corn sugar, and 3 pounds of white sugar. What kind of yeast would work in these conditions? If I can find a usable malt, I'll be making 5 gallon batches. Thanx in advance for any and all information, and have a real nice day!!! Robert Nielsen robertn%fm1 at sc.intel.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tuesday, 19 Dec 1989 08:49:37 EST From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo) Subject: Various replies >Date: Mon, 18 Dec 89 14:25:34 EST >From: boubez at bass.rutgers.edu >Subject: Taking homebrew into Canada, Slow starting yeast > >I remember seeing this question a little while ago, but I don't >remember what transpired, so here it is again. I'm going home >to Montreal this week for the holidays, and I'd like to take >some of my hombrew with me for my mom to sample. What are the >rules and regulations in effect? Do they differ from the >regular beer rules (1 case)? Thanks. Well, I took some homebrew with me on a recent trip to Ottawa. I just told the guy I had two six packs of beer with me--didn't say anything about homebrew, so I don't know if they have special rules that I violated. >On another topic, I started my latest batch this week-end, and >instead of "pitching" the yeast, this time I decided to "start" >it first in a cup of warm water. Well, it's been two days, and >still no sign of life... I am unclear as to what happened here. When I rehydrate dried yeast, it goes into roughly 100 degree Fahrenheit water. Within a few minutes, you see some activity as the yeast comes to life. I have heard that if you smell anything untoward at this point, throw the yeast away and try another packet, though it hasn't happened to me. Then you can pitch this into the wort at the proper temperature. So, if you didn't see any activity in the warm water, you wouldn't be very likely to see anything in the wort, IMHO. >Date: Mon, 18 Dec 89 19:30:20 CDT >From: "Lance "I Don't Exist" Smith" <lsmith at umn-cs.cs.umn.edu> >Subject: Kettles and dangerous carboys >Brew Kettles: I presently use the standard enamel-steel canning >kettle, but have been looking to move up to stainless. A store >in the local mall (one of the dales for you Prairie Home >Companion fans) has 5-gal stainless kettles on sale for about >$35. It's fairly lightweight stainless, but it follows the >standard cylinder with flat top design. I think the store is >called "Letchers" or some such thing in case they're a chain. >So is that a good deal? It sounds like a *great* deal to me. I got a recent homebrewing catalog that listed a 23 quart (5 3/4 gallons) stainless steel kettle for $135 on sale. Personally, I would prefer a >5 gal kettle so that there is room to put in 5 gallons and boil it. >From: Marty Albini <hplabs!hpsdl39!martya> >Subject: predicting FG > > A few issues back I commented on some beer of mine that >was taking too long to ferment out. The question was raised: >how do you know when it's finished? How low the gravity will >get? My usual method is to look there at the end of the recipe >where it says "FG=" and use the author's experience. The only method I have ever used is when the SG doesn't change for three days. Doesn't matter if it is still bubbling or whatever. After all, there are so many factors involved--temperature, yeast, ingredients, etc. ARPANET: M14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (or M14051%mwvm at mitre.arpa) Usenet: at ... at !uunet!hadron!blkcat!109!131!John_Decarlo Fidonet: 1:109/131 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 89 08:36:16 EST From: albano at APOLLO.HP.COM Subject: Yeast starters, how are they made ? I have been using Wyeast liquid yeast for a while now (about 5 batches) and have had good result. I have noticed that fermentation is slow in starting, 24 to 36 hours. Recently I read in Zumurgy about the possibility of bacterial infection due to the slow start of fermentation. A recommended way to speed up fermentation is through the use of yeast starters. Can anyone share with me some information as to how to create a yeast starter and the best ways to use them ? Dan Albano Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 89 08:32:50 mst From: Michael Berry <mcb at hpgrbd> Subject: UPDATE: Hard Cider Effort A brief update re my attempt to make hard cider. I boiled almost 4 gallons of "Tree-Top" cider (it says it is made from concentrate) with a teaspoon of crushed cloves and 1t of cinnimon (sp?). Most of the hints that I got from this newsletter (thanks to one and all!) implied to add about a pound of dextrose (cane) sugar to get the SG to 1.080. Well, I added about that much (a LOT!) and sure enough the SG went to 1.090!!! Well, that is a potential alcohol of ~12% if it does indeed get to 1.0 so... I also used pre-started champagne yeast. It took off overnight and is still going strong some 5 days later. I'll rack it before Xmas. Q: I am considering adding ~1 lb of malto-dexterines to add mouth weight and sweetness before bottling as I have heard this stuff can come out quite dry. Any comments on this "brave" experiment? I would like to retain some of the cider'y attributes. Michael Berry ARPA:mcb%hpgrla at hplabs.HP.COM UUCP:hplabs!hpgrla!mcb Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 89 11:14:29 EST From: olson at antares.cs.Virginia.EDU Subject: Steel kettles Lance "He Doesn't Exist" Smith writes: >have been looking to move up to stainless. A store in the local mall (one >of the dales for you Prairie Home Companion fans) has 5-gal stainless >kettles on sale for about $35. It's fairly lightweight stainless, but >it follows the standard cylinder with flat top design. I think the >store is called "Letchers" or some such thing in case they're a chain. >So is that a good deal? That's LechMERE, boy, LechMERE. You wanna get yersef sued? :-) I use a 4-gal that I bought there(*) two years ago -- seems to me I paid a lot less, like $16 or $20. Works just fine for my 2-gallon extract boils. The quality is fine, though it is light as you say and does show hot spots -- extract poured in with the fire on high sometimes scorches a bit. Cleans up nicely though. As these mass market chains go, L. seems to be pretty good. Now if only they'd stock a 28-quart version... As to price, $35 seems high, though as I remember the price did rise very fast with increasing size. But it *was* a while ago that I bought. - --Tom Olson (*) There being the store in Rochester, NY. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 89 07:48:22 PST From: tcp at esl.ESL.COM (Tim Phillips) Subject: Cranbeery Ale update I wanted to give you an update on my cranberry beer that I brewed earlier this month. I posted a question of what to do after primary fermentation had not begun after three days. I combined advice from a number of people and re-pitched the yeast--only this time I used champagne yeast. I figured perhaps the what-nots in cranberries had moved the brew out of the ale yeast comfort zone, and maybe champagne yeast had a better chance. Well, sure enough, fermentation took off and everything went fine from there on. I wanted to leave the stuff in the secondary longer and also have more time to age in the bottles, but alas, the Christ- mas season is upon us. So we opened the first bottles last Friday. IT'S DRINKABLE! I was so happy! Not to say that this is anywhere near being the best beer that I have ever had, but the beautiful red color and mixture of cranberry, champagne, and beer tastes (in that order) together make wonderful conversation pieces. A perfect treat for the holidays. In case you're interested, here is a record of my procedure. This reflects what actually took place, so make your own mods as required: 1) Use Papazian's Cherries in the Snow recipe, substituting 6 lbs of cranberries for the 10 lbs of sour cherries. (Have fun crushing all those cranberries! They squirt and bounce all over the place! Get friends to help...) 2) Use chilled water to dilute, bringing temperature right to 68F (I got lucky), and immediately pitch with rehydrated ale yeast. Promptly forget what the OG was. Oh, well. 3) Wait three days for nothing to happen. 4) Panic (in a relaxed way, of course): post question to HBD, then add champagne yeast (dry, since you're panicked). 5) Relax a day later as fermentation takes off. 6) Wait five days, then skim off cranberries with a sanitized strainer. Put siphon tube *inside* your hops bag, then into the primary, and transfer to the secondary (this works *great* at keeping out unwanted gook from the bottom of the primary). 7) Bottle after a week in the secondary, using 3/4 cup corn sugar. Promptly forget what FG was. Oh, well. 8) Unveil your cranbeery ale two weeks later. Enjoy! (Best served well-chilled to the open-minded.) Like I said, time in the secondary and in the bottles should probably be longer. The beer is actually showing some signs of clearing, but looks like it would take at least a couple of months. The cranberry taste is quite dominating: I might try just 2 or 3 lbs in the future and shoot for more of a hint rather than a blast. Thanks for all your help, guys! Timothy Phillips tcp at esl.ESL.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 89 11:12 CST From: "Sushi's fine -- as long as it's properly cooked." Subject: Glass grenades (sounds like a terrorist weapon) Dear Homebrewers: In the last digest, someone asked about finding sarsaparilla. Try looking in a "Natural Foods" or Health food store. I don't think it is sold for human consumption. If one bottles too soon, one gets glass grenades. What happens if one bottles too late? - Ted - --- "All roads lead to Amber" -- Random ptgarvin at aardvark.ucs.uoknor.edu / ptgarvin at uokmax.UUCP | Eris loves you! in the Society: Padraig Cosfhota o Ulad / Barony of Namron, Ansteorra Disclaimer: Fragile. Contents inflammable. Do not use near open flame. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 89 10:19:20 PST From: falk at Sun.COM (Ed Falk) Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #326 (December 19, 1989) > > On another topic, I started my latest batch this week-end, and instead > of "pitching" the yeast, this time I decided to "start" it first in a cup > of warm water. Well, it's been two days, and still no sign of life... What > could be the cause? And what are the usual causes of slow- or not- starting > yeast? Man, I had that problem in spades. I'm trying to make mead (I'm using Karen Norteman's recipe derived from Kenelme Digbie) and managed to get some real mead yeast from the Fermentation Settlement. The people at the store warned me that it would take a long time to get started and they weren't kidding. I pitched on Friday morning (temp. 95f) and had no activity by Tuesday so I figured I'd pitched too hot and killed the yeast. I went back to the store and bought two more packets. The people at the store told me they got complaints about the stuff all the time, but had enough customers who wanted it to justify keeping it on the shelves. Anyway, I pitched again and a week later, there's *still* no activity. Two days ago, I made up a starter bottle with the remaining packet and it only just started showing activity this morning. Fooey. I've waited too long and I'm afraid the must is going to get infected. I'm going to pitch it with champagne yeast and be done with it. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 89 10:29:58 -0800 From: UNLV Student ACM Chapter <acm at uns-helios.nevada.edu> Subject: garlic recipes howdy, howdy, i would like to know if anybody out there has any recipes that include garlic. i have looked in the papazian book but he only mentions garlic, that i could see. thanks for any information that may show up. chris sinanian. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 89 16:59:26 EST From: (Mark Stevens) <stevens at stsci.edu> Subject: Yet more discussion of glass vs. plastic carboys There's been quite a bit of speculation lately about the relative merits of plastic and glass carboys. While glass carboys are heavier and can break, there does seem to be some evidence that they will produce a better beer. Are there any numbers or facts to back up that assertion? Well, maybe. Take a look at the statistical breakdown of entries and winners in the AHA homebrewing competition. (They appear on page 64 of the special yeast issue of "Zymurgy" magazine, which many of you undoubtedly have access to). Of all the entries submitted, 77% were fermented in glass, 20% in plastic, and 3% in steel. However, when you look at the breakdown of winners the benefit of glass starts to become clear. 88% of all winning entries were fermented in glass, 6% in steel, and 6% in plastic. This might indicate that the plastic is inferior, either because of leaching, because plastic is more likely to harbor bacterial infections, or because of the permeability of the material. Of course it could also be that experienced brewers just tend to favor glass, and that the statistical difference is caused more by differences in experience than in material differences. :*) Comments? - ---Mark Stevens stevens at ra.stsci.edu Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #327, 12/20/89 ************************************* -------
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