HOMEBREW Digest #3282 Sun 26 March 2000

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Re: Iron in brewing (Some Guy)
  10 gallon cornys (Marc Sedam)
  Cavity Search ("Doug Otto")
  Mostly Water ("A. J. deLange")
  Entry Deadline Palmetto State Brewers Open ("H. Dowda")
  Swagelok Bulkhead Fitting ("Dan Senne")
  Mr. Beer in Canada? (BsmntBrewr)
  Fred Garvin's Dirt (fred_garvin)
  Yeast - Respiratory Deficient Petite Mutants ("Paul Smith")
  mash temperatures and yeast attentuation (JSTanker)
  windscreens for burner ("scott")
  amylase enzymes, Principles of BS, gelatinization, Iron (Dave Burley)
  Iron Clad Arguments ("Dr. Pivo")
  Czech Hopping ("Dr. Pivo")
  How many pounds? (Kelly)
  AC motor speed ("Murray, Eric")
  parti-gyle (Marc Sedam)
  Cider (Elizabeth Blades)
  Questions about types of sugar for Belgian Ales ("Peter J. Calinski")
  Mill motorizing ("Peter J. Calinski")
  Re: AC motors ("Joe O'Meara")
  re: mashout? ("Stephen Alexander")
  re- mash-out ("Nathaniel P. Lansing")

* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Entries for the 18th Annual HOPS competition are due 3/24-4/2/00 * See http://www.netaxs.com/~shady/hops/ for more information * 18th Annual Oregon Homebrew Festival - entry deadline May 15th * More info at: http://www.hotv.org/fest2000 Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we canoot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITORS on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2000 11:22:44 -0500 (EST) From: Some Guy <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Re: Iron in brewing On Fri, 24 Mar 2000, Alan Meeker wrote: > I try to avoid iron like the plague in my brewing. However, it is > interesting to note that, according to Michael Jackson, DeKoninck is > actually boiled in a /cast iron/ kettle!! Go figure. Yes, but would you do that with a Pilsner? - See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.com Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock "Just a cyber-shadow of his former brewing self..." Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2000 13:13:10 -0500 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: 10 gallon cornys Does anyone know a good source for 10 gallon cornies? By "good" I mean reasonably priced and regularly in stock. Do they make these with pin locks? -Marc Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2000 16:14:31 -0800 From: "Doug Otto" <beerguy at hopdog.com> Subject: Cavity Search Greeting Brewing Collective According the to this mornings local newspaper, the city of Sacramento is planning on adding fluoride to our water. I live in the burbs so I'm in a different water district, but I figure it can't be far away. Apparently this move is supposed to help those who can't afford toothpaste or some other nonsense. What, if any, impact would this have on my brews? I currently filter my brewing water (0.5 micron) and use a full boil. Thanks - -- Doug Otto Carmichael, CA beerguy at hopdog.com http://www.hopdog.com/ Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 00:33:33 +0000 From: "A. J. deLange" <ajdel at mindspring.com> Subject: Mostly Water Way back Sean wrote: >A.J. deLange writes with a totally straight face... >========================================== >The chemical potential of a gas (or anything... >Holy smokes! If I want to get fancy?!?! Are you still in school ... First I get to ask a question: How do you know I wrote that with a straight face? Now I'll answer Sean's: yes, and when it comes to this sort of stuff expect to be for the rest of my life! Being serious for a moment, I am amazed at how many times equalization of chemical potential has lent better understanding of brewing related problems.. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * There were several water questions in the last couple of issues. First, was a question about excessive iron. Iron is not harmful to people at the level at which you could force yourself to drink the water. The EPA has a secondary limit of 0.3 mg/L but no primary limit. Beer will be ruined at 0.1 mg/L so we want to get the iron level below that. This is actually pretty easy to do. Aerate the water thoroughly. This will oxidize "clear water" iron to the +3 state whereupon it will form a hydroxide gel. High pH helps in this but aeration will raise the pH somewhat in most cases. The gel now needs to be filtered out somehow. Passing the water through some clean sand should do the job. The brown gunk can easily be backflushed from the sand. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * WRT to Marc's post - I agree with Matt's conclusion that this water certainly looks as it was run through a cation exchange because I can't think of any other way that it would be so low in calcium and so high in sodium without any chloride to speak of. But there are a couple of things that are bothersome about this. First, who would run his water through a home softener and then have such a complete analysis done? Second, the iron is a bit high - most cation exchangers would grab more of it - though there are special treatments which enhance the ability of home softeners to capture iron. Whatever the source (and I'm very curious) , the water is clearly not very suitable for brewing (though beer could be brewed with it). Huge alkalinity with no calcium to offset would require a lot of dark malt. That could be fixed by decarbonating with lime but the high sodium level would remain. This might come through in the taste of beers brewed with this water. The iron level is also higher than desired but that can also be fixed as described above. I cannot agree that swapping potassium chloride for salt in the brine tank would do much for the brewing qualities of this water though I remember posting the same suggestion a few years back based on reasoning for which I cannot offer an explanation. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Now, on to Strom's water: Alkalinity 28.5; Calcium 3.6; Chloride 13.9; Chlorine, free 0.08; Chlorine, total 2.05 Hardness 12; Magnesium 0.722; pH 8.9 Sodium 20.1; Sulfate 6.7; Total dissolved solids 70 This looks like pretty good stuff except for one thing and that is that most of the chlorine used to disinfect is in the form of chloramine which is difficult to remove by aeration, standing or boiling. Fortunately, we have other means in our arsenal in particular the lowly Campden tablet in a dose of 1 tablet per 20 gallons of water should do the job. It's a little bit of a nuisance to get these things to dissolve so try crushing the tablet before adding to the water and then be prepared for quite a bit of stirring. The water is quite soft and thus especially suitable for Pilsners, Helles etc. On the other hand, supplementation with some gypsum would be of benefit for British ales. Some chalk will probably be required for dark, Bavarian beers (Bocks, Dunkles) to keep the dark malt from lowering mash pH too much. Don't worry about the high pH. I'm guessing that this water came from a soft well and that your water works upped the pH with lye or sodium carbonate in order to keep it from corroding the cities pipes. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2000 16:37:42 -0800 (PST) From: "H. Dowda" <hdowda at yahoo.com> Subject: Entry Deadline Palmetto State Brewers Open The deadline for entries for the 2nd Annual Palmetto State Brewers Open is midnight, April 1, 2000. All beers must be registered by hard copy or on-line by that time. Shipped beer and checks must be received by April 4. Beers being hand carried must be at the show site by 8:30 AM, April 8 (unless other specific arrangements have been made). Info: http://www.sagecat.com/psbcomp2.htm Entry on-line: http://www.sagecat.com/entry.htm Wanna judge/steward?: http://www.sagecat.com/judge.htm __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2000 19:28:46 -0600 From: "Dan Senne" <dsenne at intertek.net> Subject: Swagelok Bulkhead Fitting I'm in the process of converting a Sankey keg into a kettle. I'd like to go the no-weld route and use a 1/2" NPT brass bulkhead. I checked out the McMaster-Carr website but could only find them in PVC, Teflon & Stainless. For economic reasons I'd like to use brass instead. Has anyone here used these & know of a company that sells brass bulkheads online? Thanks much, Dan Senne Collinsville, IL Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2000 21:09:51 EST From: BsmntBrewr at aol.com Subject: Mr. Beer in Canada? Brewers, I've had a "Mr. Beer" brewer in Canada ask me for info on who sells or ships to Canada Mr. Beer supplies. I haven't stumbled across anyone who does. Can the forrum here offer any help? Hope you can help. Brew On! Bob Bratcher Roanoke, VA Star City Brewers Guild <A HREF="http://hbd.org/starcity">http://hbd.org/starcity</A> Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2000 23:37:27 -0500 (EST) From: fred_garvin at fan.com Subject: Fred Garvin's Dirt Fred Garvin just got his soil analysis back. Fred Garvin is a little disappointed. Fred Garvin asked for input on growing better hops. Fred Garvin got back instructions how to grow better raspberries. MSU can sure play good basketball (this year) but following simple instructions seems a bit of a stretch. I already grow great raspberries. My hops are decent, but could improve. Hence the request for soil analysis. Anyway, to shorten this up a bit to make room for any reports from the Burradoos, I'll post the analysis, and see if any dirt guys on the HBD feel like helping out. Although I'm sure Alanstein Meeker is also a self appointed soil expurt, if he really wants to help, he can swing by and clean last year leaf clogs from my pool filter. Soil Type: Clay pH 7.7 Phosphorous 58 ppm Potassium 377 ppm Calcium 3666 ppm Magnesium 410 ppm Cation Exchange capacity 22.7 Anyone? Anyone (but Alan)? Fred Garvin Hop Cowboy Bent Dick YoctoBrewery Kentwood. MI - --------------------------------------------------------------------- Get free email from CNN Sports Illustrated at http://email.cnnsi.com/ Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 00:03:35 -0600 From: "Paul Smith" <pksmith_morin at msn.com> Subject: Yeast - Respiratory Deficient Petite Mutants Hello all - I am in the midst of a series of yeast experiments and would like the opinion of the community. I have plated up several of Wyeast's British strains, along with one captured strain of unknown origin. The "first generation" plating of the captured strain produced, through dilution technique, a good plate of distinct, white/cream white colonies, large and healthy, at least from visual morphology. On replating the most likely "colonial candidate," however, I am getting what I would term a whole slough of respiratory deficient petite mutant colonies - the medium is WL Nutrient, and these second generation plates (with proper dilution technique) are replete with small, dark green streak-colonies, interspersed with several well-defined, white, morphologically sound colonies. With this capture strain, however, none of the second generation plates have isolated colonies - all of the seemingly respiratory sufficient colonies are contiguous to and interspersed throughout the RD streaks. With each of the Wyeasts I've tried, the yeast colonies have been smallish, and fail to reduce the brom cresol green of the medium. Two questions: I have never attempted to gain a single-cell colony from Wyeast. Anyone else, and did you have similar results? Given that with the capture strain the "healthy" colonies are attached to the RD streaks, what is the opinion of the community re: gently lifting a bit from the "healthy" colony, replating, and seeing if a "pure" plate can be obtained? Or are these colonies pretty much toast, like the RD colonies? Cheers, Paul Paul Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 01:19:56 EST From: JSTanker at aol.com Subject: mash temperatures and yeast attentuation Being relatively new to all of this, I have a question - actually two questions: 1. As I understand it, a higher mash temperature will yield a less fermentable wort, will it therefore produce a "sweeter" beer ? 2. If I use a yeast which is less attenuative, will it produce a "sweeter" beer ? 3. If I use a less attenuative yeast (ie Wyeast 1968) and also raise the mash temperature (say from 150 to 155), is it possible that the effects of both these changes may overshoot a set goal and cause a beer to be too "sweet" ? 4. So, if I were going to attempt a recipe for Bass Ale which called for invert sugar, but did not give specifications for mash temp or yeast type, would using all three variables be over kill for this particular beer ? Sorry - that was four questions - just trying to put all this together. Thanks, Jerry (personal e-mails ok) Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 01:07:54 -0800 From: "scott" <Cuckold at cornerpub.com> Subject: windscreens for burner Mine is really high Tech: Coffee cans! Work great, and the price was perfect. Scott Richland, Wa. http://homebrewery.homestead.com/homebrewery.html Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 08:21:56 -0500 From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: amylase enzymes, Principles of BS, gelatinization, Iron Brewsters: Jim Dunlap likes fungal amylase additions to drop his FG by 10%. Since you asked, the enzyme addition does not obey the now defunct "Purity Law" and I wouldn't like to have it running around in my beer willy nilly. Jim, if you want a lower FG, why not just change your temperature profile on your mash to holding at a lower saccharification temperaure? Or if you are using extracts, just add some diastatic malt extract and hold your brew at 150F for 30 minutes or so. This way at least these enzymes are denatured during the boil and the beer is stable. Not so, the way you are using the fungal amylase added to your beer. Also I have read , although hard for me to believe, that allergic reactions have been experienced with this fungal amylase enzyme. I wouldn't give your beer with this amylase added to persons with mold allergies. - ------------------------------- Thanks to Alan Meeker for a detailed critique of George Fix's second edition of Principles of BS. But, Alan, did you like the book? {8^) - ------------------------------- Marc, I and a lot of professional brewers ( including Bud of olden times ) agree with Jeff. The addition of malt to rice followed by a heatup does in fact generate a more liqiuid "goods" mash whether or not we understand it.. I suspect the malt is there to saccharify the surface starch which results from the milling and prevent sticking to the kettle. But, don't forget there are lots of other enzymes besides amyalses in the malt I have a slightly different technique in which I take the milled rice chips slurried in water and bring them to a boil, when they get thick I add water to 150F and then add the malt and allow it to sit for a while and then back to the boil. I get excellent liquefaction and a low viscosity slurry. This helps resolve the gelatinization issue for me. I also get excellent extraction rates this way. - ----------------------------- I always imagined "Iron City" was boiled in iron vessels. I can still taste that horrible stuff! I remember a poorly defined chemically, ancient German process black dye called "nigrosine" made by a former employer in which the iron kettle was part of the reaction! It had been made this way since the early 1900s by this process which, I believe, was stolen, er borrowed, from the Germans when the first world war broke out. Each year the kettle wall thickness was micced and when needed it was replaced. Process "Modernization" in the mid-1970s in which iron was added as part of the process, produced a product which self-combusted days after being produced and bagged out. Imagine the surprise of that truck driver crossing Ohio when he looked back and saw his truck on fire. But, but it was just dye! Turns out this new process produced microfine iron precipitated on the organic dye particle which oxidized and built up heat to the point of self-combustion. You never know exactly why a certain complicated process works and what will happen if you make changes. Same with brewing processes. Change, but do it slowly. - ----------------------------- Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 15:44:07 +0100 From: "Dr. Pivo" <dp at pivo.w.se> Subject: Iron Clad Arguments A few "corrective" comments: Haemochromatosis (or, "bronze diabetes") is quite a "rare" disorder. It may be "common" relative to other genetic metabolic disorders, but is still rare enough that I've yet to see one (and I see lots of weird stuff). Fortunately it will soon be a thing of the past. Not because of any genetic engineering, but because of the soon to be released book :"Dieting: New and Original Thoughts on Human Physiology and Metabolism", by Dr. Dave Burley. As to the individual who wrote: > > As I understand, iron is a surplus in most of the USA > population and we do not need the iron supplements the > food industry pushed on us in the last 40-50 years. It is obvious HE has not now, nor has ever previously, menstruated! Speaking from experience, roughly half the population is dropping iron in their pants 4 or 5 days of every month, which without a well balanced diet (chips and fries just won't do it) can easily lead to "iron deficit spending". Of course we usually ignore that half of the population's needs, and I vote that we do it once again. One advantage of not iron substituting women, is that iron deficient anemia can lead to a quite "amusing" condition called "Pica Syndrome". These individuals get "specific eating fetishes". Many will binge eat corn starch, for example. One woman confided to me, that she snuck out of the house at night, and ate sand at a gravel quarry. I've even heard of one who ate Steve A's boiled kraut... but I remain skeptical. And what does this have do with beer? Not a thing. Why do we discuss it and present misinformation? Beats me. Lynne O'Connor presented some very nice general information about hopping routines in Czecho. Her information is correct, but is more a general guideline than covering the range of what is actually done. I'll get back to that, just as soon as I change my pad. Dr. Pivo Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 17:07:08 +0100 From: "Dr. Pivo" <dp at pivo.w.se> Subject: Czech Hopping Lynne O'Connor presented a nice summary of Czech hopping. I would add some of my own thoughts and experiences: Instead of using the time descriptions, I will use the terms I do. Lynne mentioned three hoppings. One before the boil (I call "clearing hops"), one after the boil ("bittering hops"), 20 minutes before the end of boil ("flavour hops"), and omitted a fourth added after boil ("aroma hops"). Clearing hops are indeed used, added while the lauter is collected. If this is the same as "first wort hopping" or not, I haven't a clue. If indeed "first wort hopping" has magical qualities, I have no idea either. My experience is that clearing hops are the only ones that you can substitute for Saaz with impunity. I usually use "Northern Brewer" here, because none of the hop character comes through. I've flopped back and forth there many times, and just can't tell the difference. I am guessing that what is happening, is that there is quite a bit of "flavour components" (<- like that scienterriffic term?), that are becoming break material. What is obvious, is that the break starts forming quicker, and the boil becomes much more manageable, if running at near capacity for your kettle. The only time I have had a clearing hop show its face, is when I've tried Target. I'm pretty sure that the reason is the high alpha, and I did this since I've quit weighing hops. I now use pre weighed vacuum packed things, and dose by "integers", and am loathe to cut bits off (I am such a lazy sod).I didn't "Alpha balance" too darn carefully, and I think exceeded "break". If you are using the same hop for clearing and bitter, then I think from a flavour vantage, it matters "squat all" whether you choose to add before boil or not. It will affect your break formation, and keep it from "kicking" so hard at boil, and of course if you mix hops at bitter time, the wort has no way of choosing which one it will "break dance" with, and which it will continue to "waltz" with for months. I might add, that I have no basis for my beliefs in why it works like this (I'm just guessing), but just know "that's the way it works". Bittering hops are quite another story, and if you add other than Saaz here, you will know it. By all means, do not shy from doing it (One Czech beer I liked EXTREMELY well, added a touch of Perle here, and added a very nice "bite"), just so you realize that it will come through. Lynne cited 20 minutes for flavour hops, and that is fairly standard. It is worth knowing that some breweries move that "quite a bit" closer to the end. Divulging exact times and products would be a breach of confidentiality, I think. Again, play at risk here. I happen to like a "hair of Hallertauer" on top of the Saaz. Totally non-traditional, but tasty as hell. Many Czech brewers will INSIST that an aroma hop addition is necessary, albeit only about 2.5 percent of the total. I feel this was of greater importance when they "crash cooled" by "dumping on the floor" (Ed. note: My technical term). As long as you understand the principle of "volatiles"... that they are flying off in the air in every direction, you can compensate for this any way you want to I expect, and if you are cooling slowly, I'd expect you'll have to. Lynne cited the three hoppings as "roughly equal". This is a truth with very much modification, and gives much of the character of the individual beer. I TRULY hope this helps, as the world need's more of those kinds of beers. Dr. Pivo P.S. Steve is a "nerd", Alan is a "whimp", George is a "dolt"; and Dave is a "narcissistic personality disorder". ;-) (I think a "smiley" means you "take it all back", but I don't want folks thinking I'm going "soft"). Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 10:16:59 -0600 From: Kelly <kgrigg at diamonddata.com> Subject: How many pounds? This is a little off topic, but, I'm about to make a mead. A friend that raises bee's has given me quite a bit of honey. The honey is in quart jars. Can someone tell me how many pounds of honey a quart jar holds? Most of my recipes call for x number of punds of honey, and I don't know how many pounds are in a quart jar.... TIA!! Kelly New Orleans, LA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 13:05:07 -0500 From: "Murray, Eric" <emurray at sud-chemieinc.com> Subject: AC motor speed Patrick writes the other solution is simply to reduce the speed of the motor. I don't know if this is possible. clearly it's possible to reduce the current going to an AC appliance such as a light using a dimmer (rheostat I guess). however, I don't know if this applies to a motor or not. Pat, what you need is a simple potentiometer, or pot for short. It is a variable resistor that you can simply put into the circuit with the motor, in series from the AC power source. You can find one at any electronics supply store. Just put the pot inline on one side of your ac power source. Make sure you get a pot that is rated for the voltage and the amperage of the motor that you are using. A potentiometer can generate quite a bit of heat, since it is a resistor on an AC circuit. One of the guys at an electronics supply store should not have any problem helping you pick out one that is heavy duty enough. I would stay away from the pulley idea however,, to much work, and not very adjustable. hope this helps Eric Murray Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 14:31:08 -0500 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: parti-gyle I do this all the time. It's a wonderful way to get two different beers from one session. I pinched my ideas from Lou Bonham's pieces in Brewing Techniques. I double the recipe that I want to make, in order to make a strong beer and a weaker one. Pull off five gallons of strong beer, then add six gallons of 172F sparge water. Drain off all the water. I usually exchange one gallon from each batch (i.e. put a gallon of the weak wort in the strong wort and vice versa). It's a simple explanation, but Lou's original article in BT covers the basics. I've done this and brewed the following pairs: barleywine/pale ale, Imperial pilsener/CAP, and Imperial stout/"regular" stout. Works great. -Marc Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 21:10:51 GMT From: numberone at freedombird.net (Elizabeth Blades) Subject: Cider Hi, Nigel wrote in reply to someone:- "Agreed that ciders vary in their clarity, but there are some that are definitly murky - not necessarily at fault though." According to a commercial cider maker I know(and Nigel knows him as well)some of the murkiness is caused by the addition of orange juice to the finished product. Ok I don't understand this obsession with clarity,why do you think people drank out of pewter tankards? We'd do better to stop drinking with our eyes and start using out senses of smell and taste. Cheers Liz - -- "Some people say that cats are sneaky, evil, and cruel. True, and they have many other fine qualities as well." --Missy Dizick Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2000 16:04:52 -0500 From: "Peter J. Calinski" <PCalinski at iname.com> Subject: Questions about types of sugar for Belgian Ales I understand there are (at least) three possibilities for the sugar used in Belgian ales. Table sugar, corn sugar, and sugar crystals. How do the three rank for: 1) Flavor effects, 2) Points per Pound 3) Other factors Thanks in advance. Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 09:35:11 -0500 From: "Peter J. Calinski" <PCalinski at iname.com> Subject: Mill motorizing Patrick, I posted the following information a few months ago in response to a similar question. Start of old reply: - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- I just motorized my homemade mill this weekend. Here are the details: Motor (salvaged from I don't remember what): Dayton 5K-045 115V, 1500 RPM, 3.4 Amps, 1/10 hp, 60 cycle. Motor pulley: 1.5 inch diameter Roller pulley: 10 inch diameter Belt: Service King 4L350 1/2 x 35 FHP Roller diameter: 1.68" It worked quite well. The motor doesn't have a lot of starting torque so sometimes, with the hopper full, I have to "bump" the big pulley to get it started. It doesn't slip however. The belt tension is just the weight of the motor. You might need the roller diameter to get an idea of the tangential velocity of the grain at the crush point. Good Luck. ____________________________________________________________________________ Now to your questions. >the other solution is simply to reduce the speed of the motor. i don't >know if this is possible. clearly it's possible to reduce the current >going to an AC appliance such as a light using a dimmer (rheostat i >guess). however, i don't know if this applies to a motor or not.>> Not a rheostat. With a rheostat, the power you don't use must be consumed by the rheostat. The dimmers control the energy by reducing the duty cycle of the current. >so, is it possible to reduce the speed of this motor? will a simple >rheostat do the trick? Well, I wouldn't do it because, in general, it will overheat or stall the motor. In your case however, you have a lot of extra power so you might just get away with it. The old timer's rule is a motor is running at rated temperature if, when you put your hand on it, the first instinct is to pull it back. However, if you can actually keep your hand on the motor, it is OK. The classic way to control the speed of an AC motor is change the frequency of the power, lower frequency=lower speed. Not easy to do unless you have an old audio amplifier with an output power of 400 watts or so. Of course you would need a frequency response down to, maybe, 6Hz. I can't think of a source for something like that. >also, if anyone knows of a good source for pullies in Toronto, i'd >love to hear about them. I'm in the Buffalo area. Sears has a chain of Sears Hardware stores. They carried the belt and smaller pulley. The largest pulley they had was 9 inches. I would have used that except another local hardware store had the 10 inch version. Both were by the same manufacturer. I think the larger pulley cost about $12 (US). Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 23:18:55 -0800 (PST) From: "Joe O'Meara" <drumthumper_2000 at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: AC motors Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 16:01:08 -0500 (EST) From: patrick finerty <zinc at zifi.psf.sickkids.on.ca> Subject: AC motor speed regulation ~snip~ the other solution is simply to reduce the speed of the motor. i don't know if this is possible. clearly it's possible to reduce the current going to an AC appliance such as a light using a dimmer (rheostat i guess). however, i don't know if this applies to a motor or not. ~snip~ You might be able to use a Variac, but I don't really know if they will drop the current enough. Joe ===== Joe O'Meara Mad Dwarf Brewery (AKA my kitchen and coat closet) ICQ # 60722006 http://homebrew.4mg.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 02:44:21 -0500 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: re: mashout? Joe says .. >>The primary reason would be to denature the enzyme system and fix >>the [RDF] .. > Might this effect be overstated, [...] ? Yes. In my experience the small amount of beta-amylase after the mash doesn''t cause a big shift in RDF before the boiler. You can achieve even extreme unfermentability w/o mashout. >>Secondly: mash out, for some as yet undefined reason, >>enhances head retention. My no-mashout beers suffer no unique head issues at all I didn't find that they were superior or inferior to well made mash-out beers in any way. > Another reason I've heard is to break down dextrins and make the > lauter run more smoothly. Big dextrans do have much higher viscosity than simple sugars solutions, but the impact is minor considering the very small amounts of ever larger(more viscous) dextrans. Also consider that the MO is responsible for creating much of the late starch and big dextran content. === === === In Del's (apologies if I referred to you as Nat) post: >The anecdotal evidence of only a few points of efficiency variation >points to this, compare 1 lb dextrose in a gallon of water =1.036 vs >1 lb sucrose in 1 gallon=1.044, same percent solution, lower specific >gravity with shorter chain sugars. Both of the figures above are very wrong Del. Tables show that 1 pound of stuff in a gallon of solution at 20C gives: dextrose(glucose) SG = 1.0435 Fructose SG=1.0465 sucrose SG=1.0461 (see AJ's 1.04622 note in HBD 3205). maltose SG=1.0461 dextran (avg weight 420 glucose units) SG=1.0438 There is no relationship for SG versus sugar molecule size. You seem to be confusing 1gal of solution containing 1# of stuff (typical brewing measure) vs 1# of stuff added to 1gal of water. Your argument that I have only a few data points (like 11) is right, but since you haven't tried it or read of referable experiments you have no basis for comparison. As for being anecdotal - I performed 11 experimental no-mashout brews, recording the data and comparing the results. There was nothing incidental or anecdotal about these observations. >Not a problem if you brewed light bodied beers but for a beer with >some body you want to [...] Dextrins are important in several beer styles, but they are not the sole and arguably not even the primary determinant of body. >keep the temperature up to prevent reentering the beta >amylase range of activity. B amylase does remain active long past >"laboratory findings" oft cited. No literature or experiment anywhere suggests that lowering temps can increase BA activity again. The thermal denaturing of malt BA is irreversible and the specific activity is monotonically increasing with temperature. >Read about the effects of calcium on enzyme stability. I have, in detail, and I've even reported on it here. Calcium has a major impact on one isozyme of ALPHA-amylase Calcium has been shown to stabilize MICROBIAL beta-amylase, but I've never seen a report on grain BA stabilization with calcium - it is possible tho. If it is a grain BA cofactor then it is most likely to be effective at a few ppm, (equimolar conc w/ enzyme) It's the nature of the multivalent ion enzyme stabilization. >Secondly: mash out, for some as yet undefined reason, >enhances head retention. I find your claim to be unfettered by supporting facts. I have 11 well recorded no-mashout brews which contradict this statement. What did you read or brew that leads you to this ? >Possibilities are suggested of the formation of >glyco-protein complexes that are foam positive. Suggested by whom ? Hydrophobic glycosylates of oligopeptides are implicated in foam. I have *never* seen a source claiming these result from mashout, but would love to hear about this source. >Thirdly: there are the time >and energy factors, after finishing a mash I'd like to save time and get up >to a boil as quick as possible, it is much quicker getting to a boil from >.170 than 140, and it saves gas, about 40%. It cannot "save" energy since you expend even more energy when you boosted the mash + grist. It also can't save you TIME unless you ignore the mashout boost and rest time. >So do a mash out at 170, it will stabilize the results of your mash >temperature program and probably improve foam stability. Better yet, try no-mashout as I have and prove to yourself that it has very little impact on the beer flavor or head or attenuation - just a drop in extraction. === Some facts (for a change): In EBC XII, Tuborg brewery reported on test mashes. Proctor malt, mash-in 30' at 126F, boost to 145.4F for 60' then boost to mashout 172.4F for 10 minutes. All boosts at 2C/min rate. Wort sampled at 10' intervals and enzymatic action was prevented in the samples. The mashtun wort BEFORE the boost to mashout contained 96% of the extract as after the mashout. Detailed carbo assays were performed and the pre-mashout wort was evaluated as 70.5% attenuable vs 70.3% after mashout. To encapsulate my interpretation ... Mashout buys an extra 3-5% extraction, costs 50 minutes, and results in a very minor decline (~0.2%) in fermentable extract of the wort. - -- I don't mind at all that you disagree Del, It's always the most interesting part, but I do greatly mind that you refuse to offer any support for your POV. "Del sez so", just isn't the basis for an interesting or productive discussion. EBC XII, pp205-221, B.S.Envoldsen JIB v97, pp85-92, R.Muller -S Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 06:55:12 -0500 From: "Nathaniel P. Lansing" <delbrew at compuserve.com> Subject: re- mash-out Dave said,>>Del, just to be clear, I am not attacking you personally << I understand that, and wouldn't take it personally anyhow. But besides you pretty well support my conclusions about mash out anyway...that it does help and we shouldn't skip it as Steve suggested. >>1) One is to improve the efficiency of the mash by utilizing as much of the available starch ( perhaps because it has a different gelatinization temperature and needs a higher temp to get solubilized) as can be extracted in the time limits of the mash, 2) decrease the lauter viscosity to improve the rate of extraction, 3) knock out beta amylase to stabilize the attenuation of the wort and 4) denature other enzymes such as beta glucanases - which can affect lauter viscosity, clarity of the beer and efficiency. << At least till number four, wouldn't you expect that more glucanase activity would _help_lauter efficiency? >>Monitoring the pH is a good idea just to be sure you are not extracting tannins, but it is not a good method to ensure extraction efficiency as Del suggests.<< I think I was referring only to tannin extraction, stop before you extract (excessive) tannins and the efficiency falls where it may. Return to table of contents
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