HOMEBREW Digest #3322 Thu 11 May 2000

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Hop'n Gator recipie ("Irvin Bennett")
  many thanks on fwh ("Peter gunczy")
  keg cleaning (Susan/Bill Freeman)
  Corny Keg Cleaning (Bill.X.Wible)
  BJCP Exam before AHA national conference (Spencer W Thomas)
  RE: cream ale recipe / AHA nominations (Scott Abene)
  Re: Pat Babcock (Bill.X.Wible)
  Oz handbasins (Dave Burley)
  Re: keg cleaning (Sean Furuness)
  Re: Misuse Of Equipment (Jeff Renner)
  MCAB/GCHC (Darryl Newbury)
  Re: Corny keg cleaning (Spencer W Thomas)
  Re: AHA Board Election (Spencer W Thomas)
  Re: New York City Homebrewers Guild (Rick)
  Old Fridge Start-Up (Epic8383)
  Touched a nerve, did we? ("Brian Lundeen")
  Re:  AHA Elections ("K Reinhard")
  Kegging ("Philip J Wilcox")
  Decoction Mashing ("Eric R. Lande")
  Re: oh the shame! ("John Lifer, Jr.")
  Yes Virginia, Guinness bubbles really do sink... (John Roe)
  Pass comes to the pass. ("Dr. Pivo")
  virus alert (Graham Sanders)
  beer toxicity (Jim Liddil)
  Wizard fridge (fridgeguy)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 00:57:09 -0400 From: "Irvin Bennett" <ibennett at earthlink.net> Subject: Hop'n Gator recipie Hop'n Gator Back in the 70s Pittsburgh Brewing Company put out a fruit tasting beer called Hop'n Gator that was based on Gatorade, which had been invented by a professor at the University of Florida. It was a terrific thirst quencher. Since then I've started brewing my own beer and would like to find a recipe that comes close to Hop'n Gator to try. Pittsburgh Brewing Company stopped making it in the late 70s, I think. Any help out there? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 21:34:13 +1000 From: "Peter gunczy" <pcgunczy at primus.com.au> Subject: many thanks on fwh Hi Guys Just like to say thanks to the guys who helped me out with First wort hopping have done a brew but would like to know at what stage of the brewing would you expect to know if you have reached the desired effect of flavour and aroma I hopped the mash with 10grams of saaz pellets at 3aau and fwd with pacific hallertau 25grams at 4.5aau flowers . Am I on the right track. Secondly how important is it add lactic acid to the sparge water to correct pH as I have read that the presence of high amount of mineral salts leads to extraction of tannins rather than just high pH during the sparge. Our local water has a high pH but is treated with slaked lime to reduce carbonates. Help would be appreciated Peter Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 08:06:18 -0500 From: Susan/Bill Freeman <potsus at bellsouth.net> Subject: keg cleaning My standard cleaning procedure for new cornies and for periodic cleaning as well is as follows: 1) disassemble the entire keg - including all fittings and soak them in 5Star PBW solution. I have a long thin "bottle brush" for the dip tube. 2) while this is soaking (you can put all the parts for one keg inside that keg - small parts in an old hop bag) examine all gaskets and lay out new ones for replacement where needed. Soak for a couple of hours. 3) reassemble the keg and use CO2 to pump the solution through "out" fittings. 4) refill one keg with 5Star StarSan and pump it through from one keg to another. This pumping through is also a good way to clean the quick disconnects at the same time. 5) leave pressure of 15 psi on the keg and the CO2 inside. Tag the keg as "sanitized". This leaves you with cleaned, sanitized kegs that can be used without further fuss whenever they are needed. A lot of folks feel the 5Star cleaners and sanitizers are expensive, but it has been my experience that a few bucks spent to do the job correctly in the first place will reduce the "loss" of dollars through later contaminated or infected beer poured out. I am also sure that there will be a plethora of cheaper solutions for this job, but I will continue to do it in the manner laid out above. Bill Freeman aka Elder Rat KP Brewery home of "the perfesser" Birmingham, AL Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 09:09:43 -0400 From: Bill.X.Wible at QuestDiagnostics.com Subject: Corny Keg Cleaning Sean Furuness <Sean.Furuness at tellabs.com> writes: >Can anyone point me to instructions on how to clean and sanitize a Pepsi >style corny keg ? I just ordered a few, and the place I bought them >from says they have been "rinsed". I suspect I should really clean them >out. > >Thanks, >Sean Sean, Try to find something called PBW. This is the best cleaner on the market for brewing equipment, at least in my opinion. A 1lb jar should cost around $11. This stuff is magic. Use 4 tbsp in 5 gallons of water. Let it soak overnight. Drain and rinse well. Then you want to replace the lid gasket and the rubber rings on the in and out fittings. These are pretty cheap and easy to do. I also recommend some lubricant on the in and out fittings. Any decent brewing shop sells a tube of food grade lubricant for this purpose, or should be able get it. If you really want to get serious, you can buy a buffing sander attachment that goes on your drill and polish up the outsides of the kegs, too. Personally, I don't bother. On another note, I considered making 'cozies' for my Pepsi kegs - vinyl coverings with foam insulation much like those little containers the pizza delivery places use. These would help keep the beer cold outside, and serve the additional purpose of dressing up the kegs. The vinyl material seems to sell for about $10 a square yard here, and foam insulation is cheap. They would be attached with velcro, also not real expensive. Some day, I might get around to doing it. For sanitizing, I use Star San. Bleach is not recommended on stainless. Star San costs about $7 for a 12 oz bottle, you use 1 oz in 5 gallons. Expensive, but I never had an infection that happend in a keg. Good luck with your kegs. Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 10:12:41 -0400 From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu> Subject: BJCP Exam before AHA national conference There will be a BJCP exam held the day before the AHA National Homebrewers Conference in Livonia, MI (near Detroit). The exam will start at 1PM, and will be held in the conference hotel. Contact Spencer Thomas for more information. spencer at umich.edu W: 734-998-9104 F: 734-998-9113 H: 734-994-0072 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 07:14:55 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott Abene <skotrat at yahoo.com> Subject: RE: cream ale recipe / AHA nominations J Daoust <thedaousts at ixpres.com> Writes: SNIP! "My total grain not withstanding the barley/maize additions will be around 5.5 #s, 5# 2-row, .5# honey malt. I am shooting for a lightly colored cream. Thanks in advance, private e-mail is pref. Jerry" I have been dicking around with cloning Little Kings and genesee cream ale for about 1.5 years and this is the closest I have gotten. I personally would cut the honey malt and flaked barley and stick purely to Flaked maize... But that is just me. I found that in the long run I prefer the munich and vienna over the dextrin malt also. Just my 2 cents I guess. I am a huge genesee cream ale fan and cannot buy it in Chicago. So cloning it is all I can do. Maybe this Jeff Renner guy will have some words of wisdom on the subject. Genesee My Butt Brewing Method: All Grain Yeast: WYEAST 2035 Yeast Starter: 1/2 gallon Batch Size: 15.5 US Gallons Original Gravity: 1.049 Final Gravity: 1.010 Alcohol Content: 4.5-5.0 % Total Grains: 30 Color: 4.4 Extract Efficiency: 75 % Hop IBU's: 22.9 Boiling Time: 70 minutes Primary Fermentation: 7 days at 62f Secondary Fermentation: 7 days at 58f Additional Fermentation: lagered in corny keg Grain Bill: Grain % Amount Name Origin Gravity Color - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- 56.7 17.00 lbs. Lager Malt(6-row) Canada 1.031 1 20.0 6.00 lbs. Flaked Corn (Maize) America 1.040 1 10.0 3.00 lbs. Vienna Malt America 1.035 4 6.7 2.00 lbs. Munich Malt(light) America 1.033 10 6.7 2.00 lbs. Crystal 10L America 1.035 10 Hop Bill: Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time - ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4.00 oz. Liberty Whole 3.40 19.6 60 min. 4.00 oz. Liberty Whole 3.40 3.3 5 min. Mash Schedule: Mash Type: Single Step Saccharification Rest Temp : 152 Time: 90 Mash-out Rest Temp : 166 Time: 10 Sparge Temp : 170 Time: 70 Brewers Notes: Side by side test was a dead ringer... Very nice brew On another note. Some people around here seem to not know who people like myself or Pat are. Well, I have been running a website dedicated to brewing since 1994. It features the first online recipe database that appeared on the web as well as the first Homebrew bulletin board. I also have been running an online virtual pub/chatroom exclusively for brewers. I believe that the chat was the first of its kind and it seems to be the only successful chat room out there for brewers. I host the brewrats.org site which is an online virtual homebrewers club that represents 120+ members in about 14 countries. I believe that the club is the largest of its kind. About 4 years ago I suckered Pat Babcock into taking over the HBD after the AHA basically raped it and left it for dead. I helped Jim L. post the AOB 1996 Income Tax filings to the web in 1997. I am a big AHA/AOB critic. I start fights and I stick it in their faces. To many I am a big mouth with no purpose. To a few I am respected and understood. I was nominated by Rob Moline and originally was against taking the nomination. My wife kicked me in the shorts and told me to put up or shut up. I had let my subscription/membership lapse and had given up on the AHA/AOB to be a driving force sometime last year. I was tired of participating in the same dead end discussions that fell on empty and unwilling ears. I had lost the urge to pursue a change. The firing of Brian Rezac was the last straw in my mind. When Ray Daniels was hired I saw something that I had not seen in a while... A slight glimmer of hope. I am concerned that the homebrewers in general are not being looked out for by the AOB/AHA. I am concerned with the clubs program and the lack of attention that it gets. I am concerned that my and your membership money is not going to anything that will help homebrewers. I am concerned with legalization. I want to personally make the AHA/AOB account for every penny and show us where they are helping the average homebrewer. I want every one of us to be members and not just subscribers. I want to say whats on my mind and your mind to make them (the AOB/AHA) think and respond instead of just continuing to ignore us even if it means causing a ruckus. I want to with the help of guys like Louis and Pat try to change things like that that we all fell are wrong. There you go... C'ya! -Scott ===== ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT Scott Abene <skotrat at mediaone.net> http://www.skotrat.com (the Homebrew "Beer Slut" page) "The More I know about beer politics, The more I wish I made 120k" __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 10:12:31 -0400 From: Bill.X.Wible at QuestDiagnostics.com Subject: Re: Pat Babcock Well, now I guess I can say I recognize 4 of the names... FWIW, I haven't been getting HBD very long, but I think it's a great, and Pat Babcock does deserve alot of credit. My appologies to Pat. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 10:21:31 -0400 From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Oz handbasins Brewsters: PhilY, I wondered why those handbasins were so low. {8) Of all the "common" lagers, I agree that Fosters is at the bottom of the list, then XXXX. VB is my preference of the bunch, as it is my daughter's who spent a year living in your fine country. She does prefer the Toohey's Old as well, but is a confirmed Guinness fan living in London, now. If you tasted a Foster's and Budweiser side by side I don't know which would lose faster. Either might induce one to use any available receptacle, handbasin or not. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 09:25:03 -0500 From: Sean Furuness <Sean.Furuness at tellabs.com> Subject: Re: keg cleaning Thanks for the good info I have a couple of more questions based on the responses I have received. potsus at bellsouth.net wrote: > 4) refill one keg with 5Star StarSan and pump it through from one keg to > another. This pumping through is also a good way to clean the quick > disconnects at the same time. > 5) leave pressure of 15 psi on the keg and the CO2 inside. Tag the keg > as "sanitized". Will this leave some volume of sanatizer in the keg? Will the remaining sanatizer effect the flavor of the beer, or be unhealthy? I also got a response that involved using TSP as a cleaner. I had looked at TSP in the store before for cleaning bottles, but after reading all the warning labels I passed. How well do you have to rinse TSP, and is it as incompatible with life and health as the labels lead me to believe? Thanks again, Sean Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 10:29:41 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Misuse Of Equipment When I was a boy in Cincinnati, the hand sinks (basins) in the local movie theater's men's room were about 45 inches (115 cm) high - really tough for a little boy to wash his hands in. My father explained (the family business was plumbing contracting) that the local plumbing code required this in movie theaters to prevent "misuse Of equipment" during the rush of intermissions. Elevated urinals are somewhat modern here in the states, too. Post WWII I would guess. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 11:03:03 -0500 From: darryl at sagedesign.com (Darryl Newbury) Subject: MCAB/GCHC Having attended MCABII and thoroughly enjoyed myself, I have to take exception with John Sullivan's comments in todays digest. Firstly, having more >known speakers does not necessarily mean a higher quality of speakers. Although the Great Canadian Homebrew Conference is much smaller, we have had many quality speakers over the years who I've found as engaging, if not more so than, many of the known speakers at MCAB. We have had some high quality known speakers over the years as well, including Michael Jackson and of course Clayton Cone and this year Chris White. Secondly, the cost of attending the GCHC is quite reasonable. About $70 Canadian for all events, which is about $4.92 American (actually about $45 USD). Thirdly, the food we serve is absolutely fabulous. To go with our Continental Brewing theme this year, we are serving weisswurst and cabbage rolls at lunch and Pork Tenderloin Normandy, Beef Stroganoff and Hungarian Goulash for dinner. And Finally, while MCABII is now just a blurred memory. The Great Canadian Homebrew Competition is coming up this weekend! And John, if fact, we know of a reputable cabdriver in StLouis who could get you up here to Toronto for less than $30,000 US. A few of the Brews know the story. Hope to see you all at the next MCAB, and if not this year, it'd be nice welcoming you all up the GCHC in the future. Cheers Darryl Newbury Vice President Canadian Amateur Brewers Association Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 11:03:47 -0400 From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu> Subject: Re: Corny keg cleaning This is my procedure: Go out and buy some *real* TSP (really tri-sodium-phosphate, not some "phosphate-free" imitation) or some Five-Star PBW. Add the appropriate amount of cleanser to the keg and fill with HOT water (140+ for the 5-star). Also put some of this solution into a small plastic bucket and soak the lid and fittings in there. Soak for an hour. Pour it into the next keg, or use CO2 to push it out through your tap into the next keg, which also makes sure that the tube and tap are clean. Rinse. When you buy the PBW, also buy some StarSan. Add 1 ounce of StarSan to the keg, and fill with warm water. Put the lid on the keg and shake. Force a little bit through the "out" connector with CO2. Let it sit until your next keg is clean. After draining the cleaning solution from the second keg and rinsing it, you can push the StarSan solution into the second keg with CO2. This will leave you with the first keg sanitized and full of CO2. It's ready for storage. In my experience, the cleaning solution is good for about 2 kegs. After that it gets too cold or "used up" or something. With used kegs that have held "pop", you should ideally replace all the rubber o-rings, as these will retain some "pop" aroma residue. I've got one keg that I only put root beer in, for this very reason. The o-rings may also be cracked or worn, and it's a lot cheaper to just replace them than to deal with ruined beer later on. You will need the big O-ring for the lid (some have recommended a super-squishy one that some of the HB suppliers carry -- I've never tried it, so I can't say if it's better), smaller o-rings for the outside of the poppets, and tiny ones for the valves inside the poppets. The small and tiny o-rings you can get at a good hardware store (bring along the old ones and the parts for comparison). The big one for the lid you'll have to get from a HB supply shop or keg supplier. =Spencer Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 11:12:42 -0400 From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu> Subject: Re: AHA Board Election My 2c on the "other" candidates: Scott Abene is more commonly known as "skotrat". He's commonly seen in this forum lambasting the AHA. He also has a homebrew "chat" site on the web. (http://www.skotrat.com/skotrat) Pat Babcock runs the HBD. You will have seen his postings under the name of "Some Guy". Louis Bonham is a frequent HBD contributor, was a columnist for Brewing Techniques, and ran the first MCAB competition. Not sure about John Carlson, although there is a frequent HBD contributor by that name. Stephen Mallery ran Brewing Techniques magazine. Martin Stokes is a long-time homebrewer, who has been pretty quiet of late. Almost all of these folks have contributed at one time or another to the HBD. So if you want to know more about them, in their own words, and before they were running for public office, try searching the HBD archives for their names. Go to http://hbd.org and click on the Search button. =Spencer Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 12:35:53 -0400 From: Rick <rstanley at rsi-ny.com> Subject: Re: New York City Homebrewers Guild Hi Phil! The timing for this meeting couldn't be more unfortunate! The Brewer's Apprentice is having a tasting at their facility in Freehold NJ the same night as your meeting. I am a regular customer of Brewer's and have recently brewed a batch of Tom Logan's Scotch Ale, with Tom as my assistant. I regret not being able to attend the meeting, but I will be attending the tasting in Freehold. Hope to see you next month. Please let me know about the guild's trip to Brewer's Apprentice. Rick At 05:41 PM 5/9/2000 -0700, Phil Clarke wrote: >The May meeting for the New York City Homebrewers >Guild will take place on Tuesday, May 16th at 7:30 at >Brewski's, located at 41 East Seventh Street, (between >2nd and 3rd avenues). > >Our guest speakers for the evening will be Tom Logan >and Mike Farran of Brewer's Apprentice, a >brew-on-premises facility in Freehold, NJ. Tom and >Mike will discuss brewing at the BOP as well as recipe >development. Plans for the guild's trip to the >Brewer's Apprentice will also be discussed. > >Dues will be collected from for guild expenses, >including the upcoming guild picnic in June. > >Bring a friend and bring your homebrew. > >New members are always welcome. > > >Phil > > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. >http://im.yahoo.com/ =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= RSI Computer Systems Consultants (212) 740-6600 FAX 740-3238 Network System Design, Installation, Administration Linux Dragon Naturally Speaking, Business Partner Novell Windows NT 4.0 & 95 =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 13:00:29 EDT From: Epic8383 at aol.com Subject: Old Fridge Start-Up Ted, It sounds like you're low on refrigerant. Get someone who knows refrigeration to look at the unit, it may just be a simple fix (recharge) or it might need a new seal or o-ring somewhere. Bribe the tech with homebrew-you could get a discount! Gus Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 12:35:43 -0500 From: "Brian Lundeen" <blundeen at rrc.mb.ca> Subject: Touched a nerve, did we? > Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 07:09:03 -0500 > From: "John or Barb Sullivan" <sullvan at anet-stl.com> > Subject: Cone / White - MCAB/GCHC > > However, I'm now up for the challenge. I'll allow you to compare your > known speakers to ours at MCAB II and you can decide for > yourself which is > the most prestigious event. > Aaah, now the reason for this posting and your email to me becomes clear. You're an MCAB organizer. Good God, man, you actually thought I was serious, didn't you? You really thought I was some crazy Canuck (with all due respect to Steve Podborski) with delusions of grandeur about the importance of our little gathering of brewers. That we up here in this great frozen wasteland have had our minds so numbed by the cold that we view anything beyond our borders as paling into insignificance. As Foghorn Leghorn would say, "It was a JOKE, son, a JOKE!" Obviously, my sense of humor (oops, better spell that humoUr, eh?) doesn't mesh with yours. C'est la vie. Just so you know, I have nothing whatsoever to do with GCHC, I have never even been to GCHC, so issuing challenges into the ether because of something I said will likely have the GCHC people just scratching their heads in wonderment. Rest assured, they probably view MCAB as Mecca, as do I. Cheers Brian Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 13:42:00 -0400 From: "K Reinhard" <kreinhard at clarksteel.com> Subject: Re: AHA Elections Stephen Mallery WAS BT Magazine, the same person who promised me in personal email that I would receive back issues. They were never sent. Something to consider when voting. I am not an AHA member, so either way I will not be voting for Stephen. Kevin > > We get to choose four. What's the rap on these folks? > > > >Scott Abene > >Pat Babcock > >Louis Bonham > >John Carlson, Jr > >Stephen Mallery > >David Miller > >Randy Mosher > >Lynne O'Conner > >Martin Stokes > > > Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 13:54:43 -0400 From: "Philip J Wilcox" <pjwilcox at cmsenergy.com> Subject: Kegging Sean, The AHA is good for a few things. In its 20+ years of publishing there has not been a better issue than the kegging special issue a few years back. It is top rate. It has within its pages the only totally complete reference for everything kegging. If I were a homebrew shop owner I would demand to sell one with every new draft system. That said here is what to do. For re-used kegs, hopefully none were rootbeer. If so, dispose of all things rubber and get new ones from your local source. (2 o-rings on the fittings, 2 o-rings under the dip tubes, and the big o-ring on the lid 5-7$) You won't get the flavor of rootbeer out of them, even with a stout. I can't tell you how many rootbeer stout's I have had to taste in the last 5 years. Yuck. Some people have the same problem with Slice. For the first time you should completely disassemble everything. Use a wrench to remove the gas/liquid fittings (Finding the correct deep fitting socket is a good investment-My best source is a pawn shop) then reach in the keg and push up on the dip tubes and pull them out too. Dip tubes on the air side vary from 1/4 inch to 1.5 inches in length. Next take the removed Gas/Beer fittings and set them the work bench or an old 2x4 (this sometimes leaves a mark) using a very small screwdriver, an awl or a nailset press down on the center till it pop's out. Some older designs only have a compression fit and will fall out when you remove the fitting from the keg. If you have that kind be sure the new O-rings on the dip tubes match EXACTLY. Now take the big o-ring off the lid and throw all removed parts into a pot and boil the crap out them. The long dip tube won't fit in the pot, that's OK. But you do need to clean it. If your daughter-wife-girlfriend plays the flute or clarinet borrow her cleaning ramrod and use that with to really clean the inside of the dip tube. A rifle bore cleaner works too. I use a piece of plastic scrubby on a string with a pen refill as counterweight. This part should be cleaned EVERY TIME you use the keg. An amazing amount of crap builds up in the dip tube. Now, back to the keg. Green scrubbies ie, scotch brite pads will scratch stainless steel. You really shouldn't use them. Instead find the recycled plastic scrunchie things and use one of those or a simple sponge. Fill the keg with cleanser* and water and give it a good scrub especially on the underside of the top lid. If the keg was partially full. The fill line will need some extra elbow grease. If your arm is too big, hire a local 10-year old. Rinse it well. And fill it with water and add a cup or so of baking soda. Let it sit for a few days open. This should evacuate any old stale aroma's of Dr. Pepper, Pepsi, Mt. Dew or Slice. Dump and rinse a few days later. *(PBW is best (not cheap), TSP is good (Wear gloves), Clean Brite is ok too. Bleach is tolerable but for short time periods only--overnight would be bad.) Reassemble and fill just over half full with water. Add 2 capful's of Idophor. Fill to the rim. Press down on the poppet on the liquid fitting, this will release some pressure and sanitizer will rush up the tube. Put the lid on it and add some gas to seal the lid on tight. Now you can flip it over for 10 minutes. I usually do 3 or 4 kegs at a time so I can reuse the sanitizer. Set the keg upright and put the gas and a tap on the keg. Cobra head picnic taps will let you dispense by pressing down or by flipping the dispense lever up into a locked position. Run the tap into a carboy or another clean keg this will purge your keg of sanitizer and leave it with only CO2 in it. If going into a carboy add a few inches of tubing to the end of the faucet This will allow you to walk away and do something else. At 10 psi it takes at least 5 min to empty the keg. The amount of Idophor left in the keg in so small you will never notice it was there. Enjoy kegging, it sure beats cleaning 2.5 cases of bottles. Phil Wilcox Poison Frog Home Brewer Warden-Prison City Brewers In Jackson, MI 32 Mi. West of Jeff Renner AABG, AHA, BJCP, HBD, MCAB, ETC., ad nausium... Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 16:31:13 -0400 From: "Eric R. Lande" <landeservices at juno.com> Subject: Decoction Mashing I was reading something somewhere (on-line or off) recently which referred to decoction mashing techniques. In this article (or whatever) a book was referenced for further reading (about Lagers or Pilseners or something) and billed as "the best book on decoction mashing in English on the planet." I realize that this is not a lot to go on, but, since I have been unable to find the reference again, I was hoping that someone in the collective would know the book and author. Thanks for any help. Eric Lande Doylestown, PA Brewery to be named when I finish it Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 13:43:26 -0700 (PDT) From: "John Lifer, Jr." <jliferjr at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: oh the shame! Richard, I've sympathy for you! I almost had same experience, I don't have clamps on the hoses for Co2 or Beer out lines on my cooler. Expect that the hose barbs should hold 20psi and they do. Except for the other day. Had put keg into cooler, hooked up gas and beer out lines and gassed it up. I always disconnect gas in as I don't trust keg seals or the lines to keep from leaking and I don't want empty CO2 tank. Beer hose came off 5 min after putting into cooler and had sent about a gallon in bottom of cooler before I could release enough gas to stop it. That is a mess! Got to get some clamps! John __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 18:08:34 -0400 From: John Roe <Sensei_John_Roe at compuserve.com> Subject: Yes Virginia, Guinness bubbles really do sink... According to a team of Australian researchers, the smaller bubbles (30 um) in a glass of guinness sink near the walls of the glass, carried down by currents. Kinda like bubbles in sink near a thermal (I'm a sailplane pilot). ...They have only done computer models, however! See "Science News", May 6th, 2000 Vol. 157, #19 Pages 300-302. John Roe Laguna Hills, Ca www.martialartsacademy.org You should never be in company that you wouldn't want to die with. ---Freman Proverb Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 00:26:18 +0200 From: "Dr. Pivo" <dp at pivo.w.se> Subject: Pass comes to the pass. Another voice has been raised from the "Southern Contininent". And I will just say this about that: "Never in the course of human events, has so much been done with so little." I am a foot weary, beer drinking traveler, whom I think has traversed the far sides of te world in search of the "perfect drop.." In Australia it is tough. Where not a straw of of the 6-row is grown, and the import restrictions forbid the import of "fresh" material "We got the bloody rabbits and cane toads, why in the name of sweet Gough Whitlams's backside would we want that bloody hop weeds?" Along my journey, I think that I have extracted the escence of what is relevent. I bumped into Richard Pass along this trip and was surprised that despite a full "tasting knowledge", and access to "classic ingredients", He did a "bloody good job" of reprresenting the beers on presentation. Dr. Pivo P.S. I Think the "Nitro thing" is "passe". It is very good for protecting "transport damage", but when they get there, they all taste the same. Good to hear your voice. Shuttle your better half on a frigate and get over here! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 09:51:24 +1000 From: Graham Sanders <GrahamS at bsa.qld.gov.au> Subject: virus alert G'day all Just received advice from our IT section. New virus is floating arround. It is being sent by E-mail and has the following file. Beer_For_Free_1.exe DO NOT OPEN IT. Delete it Shout Graham Sanders Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 22:18:22 -0400 From: Jim Liddil <jliddil at vms.arizona.edu> Subject: beer toxicity Does anyone know of a place that list the number of deaths attributed to beer each year and the actual amount of said fluid required to reach this state? Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 21:54:38 -0400 From: fridgeguy at voyager.net Subject: Wizard fridge Greetings folks, In HBD #3321, Ted Hull is looking for help with his recently acquired fridge that doesn't cool properly. First things first - If only a small portion of a/the evaporator is cold then the system is probably short of refrigerant. Look for a leak - signs of an oil film on tubing or evaporator surfaces. Recharging a fridge these days can be expensive. If it's repairable it may cost more than $100 to properly recharge and comply with the current laws regarding refrigerant recovery and leak repair. By the description given, this is an odd design. Nearly all manual defrost fridges have the freezer on top, with a single evaporator in the freezer section. If there are evaporators in both the freezer and fridge sections this is probably a parallel evaporator system. A very rare beast! Look for a proportioning valve that controls the amount of refrigerant sent to each evaporator. This may be in the form of a freezer or fridge temperature control. My best guess is that there will be two controls. One will start and stop the compressor (freezer control). The other will control the fridge temperature by varying the proportion of refrigerant sent to each of the two evaporators. It is normal design practice to send the refrigerant to the coldest desired area first. I'm surprised by you mentioning the only cold spot being near the entry to the fridge evaporator rather than the freezer shelves. A proportioning valve will change this, so try adjusting the fridge control warmer and the freezer control colder. Please report your findings! I've only seen one other such system of this configuration... And I owned it :-) Hope this helps! - ---------------------------------------------- Forrest Duddles - FridgeGuy in Kalamazoo fridgeguy at voyager.net Return to table of contents
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