HOMEBREW Digest #341 Fri 19 January 1990

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Ginger ale/beer -- what's the difference? (Chris Shenton)
  Why do *you* homebrew? (a.e.mossberg)
  Using Spent Grains (John DeCarlo)
  heat of dilution ? (S_KOZA)
  Re: Sealing Cornelius Kegs (Jeff Jennings)
  getting kegs to seal (Marty Albini)
  Index for Papazian's _The Complete Joy of Homebrewing_ (fawcett)
  Selzer; was Small scale mashing, dry hopping, etc. (Doug Roberts  at  Los Alamos National Laboratory)
  1% iodine (Pete Soper)
  Soda kegs (Dave Suurballe)
  Lion brewery; how to make a sweeter beer (boubez)
  Sweeter beer, take II (boubez)
  Electric Drill Pumps (Len Reed)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 17 Jan 90 10:47:21 est From: Chris Shenton <chris at asylum.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: Ginger ale/beer -- what's the difference? I like ginger ale OK, but I much prefer ginger beer. What's the difference? I've made ginger beer, and it came out very nicely. Is there some ingredient that makes the distinction between `beer' and `ale', and why are they called beer and ale, anyway? _______________________________________________________________________________ Internet: chris at asylum.gsfc.nasa.gov ( NASA/GSFC: Code 735 UUCP: ...!uunet!asylum.gsfc.nasa.gov!chris Greenbelt, MD 20771 SPAN: PITCH::CHRIS 301-286-6093 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 90 10:31:40 EST From: aem at mthvax.cs.miami.edu (a.e.mossberg) Subject: Why do *you* homebrew? Survey Question: Why do you homebrew? Do you do it for the better quality than commercial beer? For the cheaper prices? For a hobby or because of membership in some group such as SCA? Send your comments to homebrew-survey at mthvax.cs.miami.edu, and I'll tally them and post the results in two weeks. homebrew-survey at mthvax.cs.miami.edu aem Return to table of contents
Date: Thursday, 18 Jan 1990 11:00:34 EST From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo) Subject: Using Spent Grains Hello, I know I read somewhere (this Digest, zymurgy, some place) about someone making use of the spent grains left over from the brewing process to make various food products. Was it cookies, granola bars, or yet some third recipe? Anyway, I can't find it in back issues of zymurgy or this Digest, so I am actively soliciting help in finding good cooking recipes that make use of the spent brewing grains. Thanks. ARPANET: M14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (or M14051%mwvm at mitre.arpa) Usenet: at ... at !uunet!hadron!blkcat!109!131!John_Decarlo Fidonet: 1:109/131 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 90 10:59 EST From: <S_KOZA%UNHH.BITNET at mitvma.mit.edu> Subject: heat of dilution ? Hi All, The equation used to calculate heat of dilution: Tf=(T1V1+T2V2)/(V1+V2) doesn't take into account the increased heat capacity of your wort. Intuitively we know that the burn (scald) that we would receice from our wort will be more severe than that of pure boiling water (ergo, it holds more heat). Unfortunately there is no accurate way (that I know of) to predict the increased heat capacity( Cp ) of a solution. We can estimate the Cp of our solution by knowing the composition and molecular formulae of its components (whose individual heat capacities can be estimated using Kopp's Approximation" Cp <=> 3NR where:N is the # of atoms forming the compound and R is the gas constant) The bottom line is: the time and effort of trying to estimate how much water you'll need to cool your wort far outweighs one empirical experiment. That is, measure it and see.8-) P.S. If anyone really wants the rest of the calculation (P-CHEM is not of interest to most sane readers of the net) e-mail me personally Stephan M. Koza "What did one yeastie say to the other yeastie?"----"Hey Bud" Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 90 09:41:22 MST From: caeco!jj at cs.utah.edu (Jeff Jennings) Subject: Re: Sealing Cornelius Kegs I too have had problems with getting a good seal with Cornelius kegs, but not as bad as the poster yesterday. Since it was recommended to replace the O ring on the lid anyway, I decided to try a "Lid Sealing O Ring" from William's Brewing (P.O. Box 2195, San Leandro, CA 94577, 415-895-2739). This is admittedly way overpriced at $5.90. I just tried it last night. The keg sealed the first time I put the lid on. I had never had the lid seal the first try before. So the O ring worked as advertised so I may have to break down and order five more for the rest of my kegs. Other prople on this mailing list seem to expend great effort to avoid dispensing the sediment in a keg. I expect the first pint or two after tapping the keg to be mostly sediment. After that you should have sediment free beer. - --------------- Jeffrey C. Jennings Silicon Compiler Systems uunet!iconsys!caeco!jj 7090 South Union Park Ave., Suite 200 caeco!jj at cs.utah.edu Midvale, Utah 84047 USA (801)255-8880 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 90 8:49:28 PST From: Marty Albini <martya at hpsdl39> Subject: getting kegs to seal > The talk recently about kegging encouraged me to ask this question about > a kegging problem I'm having. I recently started kegging after a present > of a Cornelius system for Christmas. The first time I tried it, the keg > wouldn't seal. I tried initial overpressure, drying the seal, wetting the > seal with water or glycerine, but nothing worked. I took the keg back to > the dealer where my wife bought it, and spent about an hour trying various > kegs. Finally we came up with a combination of keg+lid which didn't leak. > Even then, it leaked when the direction of the lid was reversed. > > I then went down to the local Pepsi distributor and purchased two more kegs. > Again, I had the problem of leaking. Finally, I ended up bending the heck > out of the bail which holds the lid on. This seems to work in general. That > is when I submerge the kegs, I don't see a leak. Still, the kegs leak down > after a few hours. What could be the problem? Could be leaking thru the fittings or the valves in them. I'd recommend a complete teardown; should take about ten minutes. Replace anything that looks even remotely suspicious. The lid gasket (really an o-ring) leaking is a common problem. They take a set if they're stored compressed. Try this: put one in a bowl, add boiling water, and let set for a few minutes (don't boil the o-ring!). While it's still warm, put the tank back together and pressurize. Something else may be happening: the CO2 may be going into solution with the beer in the tank. This will drop the pressure, but not all the way to atmospheric. To test for this, pressurize a dry tank and come back in a few (standard unit of time: two stouts, or a six-pack of light stuff). > For all the praise I've heard > this system get from brewers, it just looks like a pain in the butt to me. > (Unless, of course, it can be made to not leak.) I store my empty tanks dry with 5psi in them to keep the seals working and to keep nasties out. They keep this way for months. All my tanks were bought used. > Any help would be greatly appreciated! You owe me a beer! - -- ________________________________________________Marty Albini___________ "Thank god for long-necked bottles, the angel's remedy."--Tom Petty phone : (619) 592-4177 UUCP : {hplabs|nosc|hpfcla|ucsd}!hp-sdd!martya Internet : martya%hp-sdd at hp-sde.sde.hp.com (or at nosc.mil, at ucsd.edu) CSNET : martya%hp-sdd at hplabs.csnet US mail : Hewlett-Packard Co., 16399 W. Bernardo Drive, San Diego CA 92127-1899 USA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 90 12:18:31 EST From: fawcett%iron at cs.umass.edu Subject: Index for Papazian's _The Complete Joy of Homebrewing_ I recently got a copy of Papazian's _The Complete Joy of Homebrewing_, and noticed that it has no index. I remember a long time ago someone saying that they had composed an index for it that exists on-line somewhere. Could someone tell me where to get it, or mail it to me? Thanks. -Tom Fawcett Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 90 11:11:37 MST From: roberts%studguppy at LANL.GOV (Doug Roberts at Los Alamos National Laboratory) Subject: Selzer; was Small scale mashing, dry hopping, etc. > Date: Wed, 17 Jan 90 22:46:22 -0600 > From: Enders <enders at plains.NoDak.edu> > > My latest experiment was to *brew* seltzer (i.e. just water, maybe with > a twist of lemon or lime, prime it, and add a small amount of yeast to > carbonate.). It turned out suprizingly good. I used 1/2 t. of corn sugar > per bottle to prime. I rehydrated some lager yeast and added 0.2ml of the > solution per bottle. Works great! I had lemon/lime fizzy water in a week and > I *know* where the water comes from. :-) > What a wonderful idea! I've made selzer myself, by force carbonating in a Cornelius, but the concept of a naturally-fermented, flavored selzer is very appealing! - --Doug ================================================================ Douglas Roberts | Los Alamos National Laboratory |I can resist anything Box 1663, MS F-602 | except temptation. Los Alamos, New Mexico 87545 | ... (505)667-4569 |Oscar Wilde dzzr at lanl.gov | ================================================================ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 90 14:45:09 EST From: Pete Soper <soper at maxzilla.encore.com> Subject: 1% iodine In a description of a brewpub's practices, Ed Falk mentioned that they use iodine for sanitizing and do not rinse it off their equipment because "it evaporates". ************ DO NOT PLAY WITH IODINE **************** I believe a solution of plain, metallic iodine (like you would buy at a drug store) WILL NOT EVAPORATE. Its solvent will evaporate, but the iodine is left behind, which is the whole point in its common application. Since iodine is quite toxic, what I am strongly suggesting is that we all LEAVE IODINE ALONE. Perhaps the quantity left on equipment surfaces in the setting described at the G-B brewpub is insignificant. Perhaps it isn't. Perhaps they are using a volatile iodine compound (idoform?). But for goodness sake folks, let's not experiment with this. (Posted at Ed Falk's request) - --Pete Soper Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 90 13:55:35 PST From: hsfmsh!hsfdjs!suurb at sfsun.West.Sun.COM (Dave Suurballe) Subject: Soda kegs Florian says he is having problems keeping soda tanks pressurized. I have a lot of experience with soda tanks, and I don't have this problem. Many amateur brewers here in San Francisco use soda tanks, and I haven't heard of this problem from them, either. Are the tanks connected to something that might be leaking and leading you to believe that the tanks themselves are leaking when they are not? If the tanks are new, I'm at a loss to explain this. I have used dozens of new tanks and never had this problem. I assume they are used tanks. Have the five o-rings been replaced with new ones? If not, you have no idea how old, how worn, or how inflexible the rubber is. I routinely replace the o-rings on every used tank I get. (It's better for the beer, too; rubber holds the flavor of the previous contents.) Not all lids fit all tanks, even if they look like they should. If you had to bend something, you clearly have the wrong lid/tank combination. Maybe the seller jumbled up the tanks and the lids in the cleaning process. If the tanks are used, who cleaned them and how? I've "overcleaned" two tanks in my time, corroding the weld and creating tiny leaks. Have the tanks been disassembled for cleaning and then reassembled loosely? Specifically the pressure-relief valve in the lid and the two disconnect stems on top? It doesn't seem likely that the stems are too loose, because on several occasions I have forgotten to tighten them on a tank I was reassembling after cleaning, left them finger tight, and didn't notice until I disassembled it after the next (successful) use. Apparently they still work only finger tight. I don't rely on this, however, and I still use the wrench, except when I forget. Oh yeah, I also routinely replace the "poppets" in the disconnect stems on used tanks. There may be a tiny leak between the rubber in the poppet and the steel in the stem. (The poppet is the spring thing which seals the hole in the disconnect stem.) This kind of question sounds stupid, but it sometimes helps discover the problem: are you sure the tanks are leaking? Maybe your pressure guage is failing. Or maybe your gas system isn't really filling the tanks. Soda keg systems get a lot of praise because they deserve it. Don't give up on them just because your first attempt is not yet successful. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 90 11:43:22 EST From: boubez at bass.rutgers.edu Subject: Lion brewery; how to make a sweeter beer Hi there, I have two completely different questions: 1) There was an article in the digest a couple of weeks ago about the Lion brewery, and Stegmaier brand (aside from the two articles in yesterday's digest). Has anyone kept it? And if so, could you please e-mail it to me? 2) How can I make my next batch a little bit sweeter? Would adding unfermentable sugars do it? And if so, WHAT are unfermentable sugars :-)? Am I off the mark? Thanks again. toufic Toufic Boubez boubez at caip.rutgers.edu --There's NO OAT BRAN in Motor Oil! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 90 11:57:50 EST From: boubez at bass.rutgers.edu Subject: Sweeter beer, take II Re: my previous question, I just read some answers to a similar question posted by somebody else (Re: Kiwi Questions). I'd still like to know how can I make a sweeter beer, considering that I'm still at the malt extract stage, ie I use it straigt out of the can... Thanks. toufic Toufic Boubez boubez at caip.rutgers.edu --There's NO OAT BRAN in Motor Oil! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 90 05:52:03 MST From: stcvax!rlr at uunet.UU.NET (Roger Rose) Chris Shenton <chris at asylum.gsfc.nasa.gov> writes:: > Subject: Wort chiller for hot days and finite water supply > > This is a follow-up on my previous posting. It attempts to remedy the > situation where the water from the tap is not cold enough to chill wort > efficiently, or where you don't want to dump mass quantities of perfectly > good water down your drain. With all of this talk on wort chillers, don't forget the utmost in simplicity. For small (12 qt.) brewpots I just put the sucker in a sink of cold water and cool it in about 5 minutes. Yes, this is potentially a little hard on the pot, so I wouldn't necessarily try it on something expensive. But then again, it's not like you're cooling boiling oil (or candy) and is it really any worse than pouring boiling liquid into a cool stockpot? -roger Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 90 9:42:37 EST From: Len Reed <lbr%holos0 at gatech.edu> Subject: Electric Drill Pumps Several posters have suggested recirculating ice water through a wort chiller using a pump driven by an electric drill. I tried this some time ago: a < $5 pump, a Sears 1/2" drill, and some hoses and tubing. It took ten minutes to get down to the temperature I wanted. By the end of that time I was nearly deaf. Typically you use a hand drill in short bursts, so you're not aware of how loud it is. Running continuously for over a minute it is LOUD. The second time I tried it I put in earplugs and still found the drill anoyingly loud. Before you buy hoses, fittings, and a pump, and rig the whole business up, sit in a room with your drill for a few minutes. Most unpleasant. Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #341, 01/19/90 ************************************* -------
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