HOMEBREW Digest #3512 Mon 25 December 2000

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  Kettle Drain with Pellet Hops (Kevin Peters)
  re:beerstone (Sharon/Dan Ritter)
  Lager, Nature, and Temperature (Greg Owen)
  Gypsum and Headaches ("Abby, Ellen and Alan")
  Axial dispersion in flow through beds ("Sean Richens")
  dry cinnamon-ing...? (leavitdg)
  Cultural Differences-"When in Rome..." ("Fred L. Johnson")
  Jet Dry and Beer Glasses ("Rick Theiner          ")
  Re: Dogfish Head Immort Ale (mchahn)
  Are you there Brian ? (David Lamotte)
  I will be back (craftbrewer)
  EasYeast??? (ThE GrEaT BrEwHoLiO)
  Old Grains OK? (Kimball Morgan)
  Re: beerstone ("Kurt Schweter")
  more "chilling" thoughts about my inability to communicate ("Dr. Pivo")
  Re: Cultures Rubbing ("Adrian Levi")
  Extraction (kbooth)
  Using Karo Syrup instead of Corn Sugar for Priming ("Chris Strickland")
  Before or After? (Bill Tobler)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 08:40:48 -0500 From: Kevin Peters <kpeters at ptd.net> Subject: Kettle Drain with Pellet Hops I've been thinking about adding a drain to my boiling kettle, but in searching the archives, the posts I found said this works only with leaf hops. No pellets, since the screen will be clogged. Is anyone out there using a kettle drain who brews with only pellets? What arrangement works? A screen such as an easymasher? Along the sides of the kettle? A full false bottom? Kevin Peters Mechanicsburg, PA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 07:06:23 -0700 From: Sharon/Dan Ritter <ritter7 at mail.montana.com> Subject: re:beerstone Regarding the recent discussions about cleaning beerstone from brewing equipment... Conventional wisdom seems to favor a caustic based product followed by an acid rinse but can anyone tell me where a homebrewer can purchase these products (mail order)? I don't recall seeing any of these cleaning products in the major homebrewing supply catalogs other than PBW. Dan Ritter Hamilton, Montana Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 10:32:43 -0500 From: Greg Owen <gowen at digitalgoods.com> Subject: Lager, Nature, and Temperature Hello, all. After a 4-year brewing hiatus, I'm brewing again. I've got a Stout in secondary a few feet from me, and I'm thinking about my first lager. You see, I've moved into an actual house, as opposed to the apartment. One of the things the house has is an unheated garage. As I live in New England, this means I've got another 4 months of generally low temperatures to look forward to. Over the last two days, I've been monitoring the temperature in there. The range runs from 38 to 48, and I bet if I move my thermometer away from the basement door it'll drop and get a little more regular. I'll be experimenting to see what sort of temperature range and regularity I can find in there. I've got the capability to log temperature from up to 3 locations to my computer as often as I want. I have a few questions, both about lager brewing and about temperature control, that I'd like to throw out for your consideration. 1) What temperature range and variability can lager yeast stand? Papazian basically says 40-50 degrees F for 4-6 day primary, then <40 F for 3 weeks to 3 months of secondary. Is the range that broad, or do I need to dial in more exact temperatures? If the temp is in a given range but varies 5 degrees (say, 43 to 48) over a 24-hour period will that discourage the yeast? Is secondary less particular than primary in this regard? At what temperature does beer in secondary freeze, and what does that do to the yeast? 2) Would immersing the carboy in a bucket of water increase the temperature stability? When the garage door opens, cold air sweeps in, the temperature drops. But I would think that water will require more than a quick blow of cold air to change temperature much. How about a blanket? 3) I've got a temperature probe that talks to the computer - if I had a way to use my computer to make small temperature adjustments (like flicking an aquarium heater on or off) then I could keep the temperature where I want it. Is anybody familiar with a cheap way to do that? Remote reboot devices tend to come in groups of 8 or more outlets and cost $500, but there must be a simpler way. Any helpful hints you have are greatly appreciated. Thanks! - -- gowen -- Greg Owen -- gowen at DigitalGoods.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 11:31:57 -0400 From: "Abby, Ellen and Alan" <elal at pei.sympatico.ca> Subject: Gypsum and Headaches A question about a potential allergy. Recently I made a nice basic session bitter and for the first time I added gypsum to one of my brews. I usually stick to brown ales and stouts from personal perference so this was a new effort for me. Unlike anyone else who tries the beer, two hours after even a sip I get a screaming mid forehead pain like steel wool on the inside of my skull. It is not a hangover as the ale barely makes 2%. I am allergic to sodium metabisulfate and can tell when, like with our local micro brewery here on PEI, it is used as the cleaning agent. Has anyone else noted such a reaction to gypsum? Is there a substitute additive to get the long hoppy finish to a bitter? SHould I just notch up the hops a bit to compensate. By the way, we have very neutral water here on PEI being a glorified sandbar. Alan McLeod in PEI Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 17:03:06 -0600 From: "Sean Richens" <srichens at sprint.ca> Subject: Axial dispersion in flow through beds Paul & John: You might want to look at a simple function which matches the residence time distribution in many packed beds (e.g. lauter tuns) very well, especially when the particles are themselves pourous. The Gumbel distribution: G(t) = exp ( - exp (-a*(t-b))) where "a" describes the amount of dispersion and "b" the delay between the pulse entering the bed and leaving the bed. When applied to a lauter tun, of course, one would use the integral of the function for the step change. I've never been able to figure out a mechanistic model for why this equation works, but it does, Sean Richens srichens at sprint.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 11:29:15 -0500 (EST) From: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu Subject: dry cinnamon-ing...? I have dry hopped...several pale ales, and have found, as reported by most here, that it really helps in developing a wonderful hop aroma. However, I have never used cinnamon sticks in the keg...for a winter warmer. Has anyone ever dry cinnamoned? I suppose that the sticks should be boiled....then added, to the keg? How about the oil that they might impart? .Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 12:11:55 -0500 From: "Fred L. Johnson" <FLJohnson at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Cultural Differences-"When in Rome..." I read with interest Graham Sanders treatise on the cross-cultural phenomenon going on in the HBD posts. He has described the classic situation in which a given cultures' habits are perceived in a manner by the second culture in a way that is not intended. The result is that such behavior within the second culture is offensive, etc. and the reaction of that second culture is consistent with such offensive intent. (I think this all began many years ago with the incident at the tower of Babel and consequent curse.) It is apparent to me that many in the HBD, including Australians and Americans alike, may have not learned an important lesson when tring to effectively communicate with individuals from other cultures. (Alternatively, they may not care, which is sad.) In the cross-cultural world of business, governments, and politics, one's own habits are willingly self-suppressed in deference to the habits of the other culture with which one is trying to communicate and do business with. (I would add that the HBD is such a common ground on which folks of various cultures are attempting to communicate and actually accomplish something substantive, i.e. making and enjoying better beer.) If one is knowledgable of the habits of the other culture (as one should be if one intends to actually do any business and communicate with the other culture), one goes to all means possible to avoid being misunderstood. Such is also the case within any polite society. That is, one defers to the other, which is recognized and appreciated by the other party, who then reciprocates whenever possible. Besides, it is in one's own interest (if not in the interest of the other party), to communicate in such a way that one is NOT misunderstood. Graham Sanders uses an example of how a person from another culture/language unintentionally mispronounces or misuses a word (or makes some other mistake). Graham rightly says that this person would be forgiven such an innocent mistake, and that it would be rude for one to do make fun or harshly criticize for such a mistake. I am quite dismayed that, according to Graham Sanders, some Australians, AS A CULTURE, delight in making statements intended to be offensive to Americans, just so that they can have a hearty laugh at the Americans' reactions. In other words, the INTENT of such individuals is to offend. Such individuals KNOW better and simply don't care--a selfish (and self-destructive) attitude and counterproductive to a communication forum such as the HBD. To the Australians: Is it any wonder that "cultures" clash when an individual's intent toward the other culture is to make fun of it? I also understand that this type of behavior among some Australians is at least partly the result of the narrow-minded, provincial attitude of so many Americans. Many Americans ARE guilty of seeing the world only as Americans see it and expecting the rest of the world to "follow suit"--another selfish attitude. In such cases, the American deserves the ridicule for which some Australians have a creative skill for delivering. To all of us: (paraphrasing) "Do unto others as you would have them do unto you, and do it in the manner in which the others would do it." - -- Fred L. Johnson Apex, North Carolina USA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 15:17:47 -0500 From: "Rick Theiner " <Logic at mail.skantech.com> Subject: Jet Dry and Beer Glasses Dave Howell asks about Jet Dry bringing about problems with beer. As someone who has been formulating rinse aids for almost 10 years (finally got a question in my peculiar area of expertise!!), I can tell him that Jet Dry will indeed kill the head of a beer. How much] depends on the injector in his machine and the type of beer. I was involved in setting up the initial cleaning and sanitizing systems in the kitchen of Dave Miller's place in Nashville (Blackstone's), and having just started into homebrewing, I really wasn't sure of the effect of rinse aids. Dave set us straight pretty quickly, and the only thing touching his glasses during the final rinse is an iodophor type sanitizer (unneeded in the home, but necessary for the health code). (BTW, Dave is a great guy, and I highly recommend saying hi if you ever make it there.) Rick Theiner Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 16:24:21 -0500 From: mchahn at earthlink.net Subject: Re: Dogfish Head Immort Ale >Is there a recipe out there yet for this great beer? If so, using a standard >ale yeast would bring down the alcohol but would it change the taste? There is a recipe in the new book NORTH AMERICAN CLONE BREWS that can be used as a starting point. It doesn't include the maple syrup, vanilla, etc. that Dogfish Head puts in this beer. I believe those ingredients are listed on the bottle. In the book, he uses 1728 yeast and says he gets 11% ABV. Certainly the alcohol is an important part of the flavor profile, but even if you didn't get that high an alcohol content, this should be a tasty brew. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 24 Dec 2000 09:40:37 +1100 From: David Lamotte <lamotted at ozemail.com.au> Subject: Are you there Brian ? Pat is correct (of course) when he advises for you to check with your ISP about the missing issues. Is your email address correct as I too cannot see rrc.mb.ca - you simply don't exist. Before the move my copy of the HBD mysteriously stopped. Pat confirmed that the HBD servers had sent it. My ISP denied any filtering etc was going on, but as email is often relayed from one server to another (take a look at your full email header to see) there was obviously someone, somewhere stopping the digest getting through. Well after a couple of weeks, and a number of test messages received from unkown people it suddenly sprang into life. So, go get em boy.... David Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 24 Dec 2000 10:23:48 +1100 From: craftbrewer at telstra.easymail.com.au Subject: I will be back G'day All Well a quick note here (for a change) I will be back. I have to reply to all you buggers who have written to me (my there's a lot of you). So be patient In the meantime Shout someone over the break Graham Sanders Oh - getting on my good side does not mean that my carton import duty doesn't apply. Nice try!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 15:32:57 -0800 (PST) From: ThE GrEaT BrEwHoLiO <skotrat at yahoo.com> Subject: EasYeast??? Hiya, I went to my new local homebrew store (StoutBillys) and was surprised to see no familiar liquid strains... Just some brand called "EasYeast" The Store clerk made the yeast out to sound fantastic. What's the scoop? Anybody know? -Scott ===== "Life without Plaid sucks" http://www.skotrat.com/skotrat - Skotrats Beer Page http://www.brewrats.org - BrewRats HomeBrew Club Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 16:21:15 -0800 From: Kimball Morgan <km11 at pacbell.net> Subject: Old Grains OK? Hello, A question for the all-grainers: I'm just getting back into brewing after a three-year hiatus. Spent part of this afternoon going through my equipment and supplies. I've got 100 pounds+ of various grains, all of which are ~3 years old. They have been stored in almost-airtight containers during that period. I went through each bin and smelled, tasted, looked for unusual things, etc.; it all seems OK. Does anyone have any idea what the shelf-life on malted barley is? Perhaps what to look for in analyzing same? I'd hate to toss it to the deer if I can use it in my comeback-brew, which will probably be a strong Belgian-style. All thoughts and comments appreciated, (and, Cheers!) Kimball Morgan Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 16:25:35 -0500 From: "Kurt Schweter" <KSchweter at smgfoodlb.com> Subject: Re: beerstone just great, something else to be paranoid about !!!! how long and how often does this accure in homebrewing I've been an happy stainless man for 3 years scrubbing and sanitizing before and after brewing guess I need to start reading ! Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 24 Dec 2000 09:19:19 +0100 From: "Dr. Pivo" <docpivo at hotmail.com> Subject: more "chilling" thoughts about my inability to communicate David Lamotte summarised my posting as: " My reading is that you use your counterflow chiller as normal, but you direct the warm 'exhaust' water through your imersion cooler prior to disposal. As this is 'immersed' in your kettle, it helps to reduce the temperature of the wort entering the counterflow cooler by dropping the temperature of the uncooled wort still in the kettle" Which is EXACTLY what I meant, and I wonder why couldn't I put it so clearly. As to theoretical implications of whether it will "work" or not, I already know it does. If you've got an immersion chiller just "hanging about" collecting dust, you might want to try it... depending on flow rates and a bunch of other crap, I'm guessing you can pull about 40 percent off your cooling time (I pull about 65 percent off, but that is just because my counterflow is stainless and as such a pretty crappy heat exchanger). What you end up with, is something where you gradually get to increase flow during cooling, so that by the end it is "full throttle". Dr. Pivo Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 24 Dec 2000 18:35:51 +1000 From: "Adrian Levi" <adrian at lefty.dyndns.org> Subject: Re: Cultures Rubbing Alan McLeod Said: >[By the way, Canadians don't do TSOP perferring ironic self-deprecation >which is sometimes just insulting the person before us through Could this new mnemonic mean "Taking Someone Out to Pissup"? Adrian (Aussie TPOS Post) Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 24 Dec 2000 00:02:44 -0400 From: kbooth <kbooth at waverly.k12.mi.us> Subject: Extraction > > Dr Stevo, I have been doing some lauter flow experiments myself in order to > extract the very last of those sugary pieces into my kettle. > It occurred to me that a rapid orbit of the lauter tun about one's head > would surely force the very last sugary bits out of every bit of grain. But > there is a potential problem. As I found out with the last orbital > experiment I conducted. > And Eric Fouch asked of me a simple and succinct question for which even > today I have not found an answer. > How do you control the tangential factor? > I mean, should the lauter tun slip from your grip. > > Dr Stevo, do you have an equation that would explain this? > > Phil > Baron Of Unusual Experiments > Burradoo Jim B. writes.....Its been a few years (40+) since I inverted any matrices and Cramer Rules was the teacher of my class I believe. Most of my inversions lately are related to beerhunting. Any way, in following the signs of the sines, I believe that in the southern hemisphere it will be necessarry to rotate one's lauter tun the opposite direction than from the northern hemisphere to get the correct extraction. So tell us, in the land of OZ, does one rotate one's tun clockwise or counter- wise, and will you get arrested if you do it in public? Holiday cheer to all......but for a White Christmas come visiting as we've got about 30" of it here in Rennerland. jim booth Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 24 Dec 2000 14:35:45 -0500 From: "Chris Strickland" <chris at new-horizon.net> Subject: Using Karo Syrup instead of Corn Sugar for Priming Has anybody tried using Karo Syrup instead corn sugar for priming, they're the same thing basically. How much Syrup would equate to 3/4's cup of corn sugar? Also, when using DME for priming, is it 1 1/4 cups of DME for priming? (I hope or I'll have some exploding bottles). Thanks Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 24 Dec 2000 14:14:36 -0600 From: Bill Tobler <WCTobler at brazoria.net> Subject: Before or After? Hi all, I've been lurking for a long time, and staying out of the war zone. I made my Christmas Eve APA today, and was just wondering what everyone else does. After the boil and cool down, I typically pitch, aerate, and shake, rattle and roll. For some reason today, I aerated, shook, rattled and rolled, then pitched. ( And shook a little more) Do you think it makes a difference? I can't see how, but......... Have a great Holiday season, and keep on brewing. To Better Brewing Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, TX Return to table of contents
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