HOMEBREW Digest #3525 Tue 09 January 2001

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org


          Northern  Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
        http://www.northernbrewer.com  1-800-681-2739

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

  Re: dumb questions for the group (David Lamotte)
  re: Spreadsheet for # PrimeTabs Per Bottle (John_E_Schnupp)
  RE: Ale Dropping (Tony Barnsley)
  Sweet Ciders (EFOUCH)
  Water Profile in ProMash (Jeffrey Donovan)
  Dropped 0/BU (AJ)
  Re: Replies - Japanese hops, utilization, filters, wheat (Jeff Renner)
  Re: Ale dropping & fermentation temp (Jeff Renner)
  Re: long primary (Jeff Renner)
  Moldy Marris Otter... (Jim Cave)
  Uses for Spent Grains/Radiation-Reinheitgebot vs Gauss' law. ("Stephen Alexander")
  Re: dumb questions for the group ("patrick finerty jr.")
  Call for BHC7 Judges and Stewards ("Schneider, Brett")
  Re:  Brewater and Promash (Steve)
  Blue camping pad as insulator ("Strom C. Thacker")
  Alan Davies question ("Richard Sieben")
  Old Stuff besdies myself (Beaverplt)
  Re. "Bogus" Water Reports (John Palmer)
  re: Reducing Cider Alcohol Level, Brewing Racks, & Kegs ("Charles R. Stewart")
  trapped CO2 ("Richard & Laura")

* * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we canoot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 17:32:31 +1100 From: David Lamotte <lamotted at ozemail.com.au> Subject: Re: dumb questions for the group Richard Dulany asked some thoughtfull (not dumb) questions ... >>> 1) Is there any reason NOT to "rinse" my carboys with a small amount of clear grain alcohol (vodka, rum) as a final step in the sanitizing process? The carboys have been thoroughly rinsed, but I want to negate anything bad in my tap water. >>> No, there is no problem doing this, but it won't do any sanitising. Alcohol level needs to be around 80% and then you need fairly long contact imes to be effective, plus not all organisms are knocked out. You do not mention what you are using for sanitation - If you have concerns about rinsing, the best approach would be a non-rinse formulation (idophore etc). If you still need to rinse out beach etc, I believe the best (and cheapest for you guys in the USA) is the cheapest commercial beer that you can find. >>> 2) Should I try to aerate the beer when racking from the primary fermenter to the secondary fermenter? It seems to give the yeast new vigor. >>> Aeration is bad any time after the start of fermentation. While the yeast may appreciate it, the alcohol and many other components formed during fermentation can be oxidised, with a consequent deterioration in beer flavour. You may only be seeing the release of trapped CO2 caused by the physical movement of the beer. Hope this helps, David Lamotte Newcastle, N.S.W. Australia Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 00:02:02 -0800 From: John_E_Schnupp at amat.com Subject: re: Spreadsheet for # PrimeTabs Per Bottle Todd, http://www.joshmadison.com/software/convert/ The one I use. I'm sure there are others. I bought a calculator/graphing program for my PalmVx and it is pretty good as a converter. I still prefer the one from Josh, probably because it is the one I'm most familiar with. John Schnupp, N3CNL Georgia, VT 95 XLH 1200 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 10:58:41 -0000 From: Tony Barnsley <tony.barnsley at blackpool.gov.uk> Subject: RE: Ale Dropping Tom asked about dropping About 18 months or so ago this was the subject of much discussion on UK Homebrew. Things like When (if) to drop?, is it beneficial? As you say Graham's books are a little contradictory, so I mailed Graham with some questions, and he entered the fray. The real upshot is that he no longer recommends dropping. Too many homebrewers were experiencing slow or halted fermentations after dropping. It comes down to a combination of two things in the end Commercial breweries that practice dropping successfully, have taller fermentation vessels than ours with more (active) yeast in suspension. When they drop (with aeration, normally 14-18 hours after pitching), then they carry over enough yeast to continue the fermentation. The other thing is that home (craft) brewers tend to under pitch and so have little healthy yeast anyway. Pitching late removes a lot of active yeast and so the fermentation stops. Graham has even had problems dropping with the Morland yeast from when the brewery was practising dropping! From experience gained over the last 18 months by brewers on UK homebrew if you are going to drop, Pitch BIG, do it with aeration and absolutely no later than 18 hours after pitching, so that you have lots of healthy yeast in suspension. I must admit though that I haven't noticed any difference in ales that I've dropped (Imperial Stout, Old Peculier, Special Bitter) which was using Wyeast 1084 Irish ale, so its a practice I've stopped using. Graham's Northern Yeasts are a severe top croppers, and need stirring back into the wort at 2 hourly intervals. All the yeasts that I've played with (Told you Welshmen have some funny habits ;-'> ) as a craft brewer have never been that heavy a top cropper. Certainly things like 1968 (Whitbread) have required rousing to ensure that they finish properly, but with plenty of oxygen at the start normal yeasts work to completion with no special treatment. - -- Wassail! The Scurrilous Aleman (ICQ 46254361) Schwarzbad Lager Brauerei, Blackpool, Lancs, UK UK HOMEBREW - A Forum on Home Brewing in the UK Managed by home brewers for home brewers To Subscribe send blank email to uk-homebrew-subscribe at smartgroups.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 07:13:00 -0500 From: EFOUCH at steelcase.com Subject: Sweet Ciders On the topic of cidermaking, Ken asks: Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 12:05:26 +0000 From: Ken Pendergrass <kenp794 at earthlink.net> Subject: Re reducing alcohol in cider I too have had cider go way too dry on me. Although I wasn't concerned about the alcohol content only the taste. What is the best way to kill yeast in cider to keep some sweetness in it? Ken in Ypsilanti The following is a note I sent regarding sweet ciders to a few people off-line. At the end, I'll add an epilogue..... I have two 5 gallon batches of cider going. Last Saturday,(back in October) at Bedford Farms in fabulous Uptown Morely, Michigan, we pressed 140 gallons of cider. The apple blend was less than optimal; about 2/3 Ida Reds, 1/3 Red Delicious. I did find a Northern Spy tree, and got about a peck or so of usable apples. So the cider I got ended up around 20% Red Delicious, 20% Northern Spy, 60% Ida Reds. Not too bad. To one 5 gallon fermenter, I added 12 oz Cran-Apple concentrate, and 2#'s brown sugar, in an attempt to emulate Jeff Carlson's 2000 AHA Gold Medal Cider. The other fermenter was keeved: An old French practice of adding NaCl and CaCO3 (or CaCl2) to the juice ASAP. This causes carbonate compounds to complex with the pectins and tannins and separate out from the juice. A properly keeved cider forms a sludge at the bottom, and a brown cap at the top, with clear juice in the middle. The clear juice is racked out, and being deprived of nutrients due to the keeving, finishes naturally sweet. Both ciders were left to go spontaneous. The keeved cider looks like it partially keeved. Last night it had a brownish- white cap. Small bubbles were developing with a little airlock activity. If the cider begins to ferment, the keevage is mixed back in, and all is lost. So, last night, I racked out the clear juice, and we'll see what happens. This wasn't a textbook keeving, as you normally let the separation develop for at least a week, and I racked at four days, due to fermentive activity. It may finish not as sweet as a full keeve, but it will be interesting. Epilogue: The caveats I have found with keeving are these: You really need a proper cider blend of apples to make it work. Store- bought cider won't do it. The cider needs to have the proper apple mix, and the pH needs to be around 5.4- adjusted by adding acidic apples, like Russian Crab apples, or any crab apples in a pinch. I cheated, and tried to adjust the pH with lactic acid, and that's probably why I only got a partial keeve. Another key to decent cider is the anal-retentive avoidance of oxygen. After fermentation has started, flush any transfer vessel with CO2. Both of the ciders have been racked to kegs and tasted. The keeved cider still finished dry, probably because of the partial keeve. Today I am going to add 1# of brown sugar to try to sweeten it up. The other cider has decent sweetness, and good apple aroma, but is a bit acidic, since I added some lactic acid to try to get the pH around 5.4. I first heard of keeving at our brewclub meeting from a guy who runs his own professional cider making outfit. I also found http://www.westberks.demon.co.uk/lvcider/ferment.htm on the internet. Next year, I will try the keeving again, after finding the right apples to mix in and if I don't feel I get a good keeve, I'll adjust the cider with brown sugar to add sweetness. Another benefit of keeving is the resulting color. Very light, and crystal clear! Eric Fouch Bent Dick YoctoBrewery Kentwood, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 05:24:21 -0800 From: Jeffrey Donovan <jeffrey at promash.com> Subject: Water Profile in ProMash Pete wrote, >I agree and I have used Brewater a lot in the past. My son got me Promash >for xmas and it looks like it uses Brewater for its water calculations. >Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to have the "tsp" option. It seems to be >limited to "Grams Per Gallon". Is that correct? I took a quick look at the >Helps and couldn't find any way to get the output in "tsp per total H2O" or >per gallon. What you have to remember is the grams per gallon figure is used simply to match a profile. It is not meant to give you the weights to measure into your actual water. So, make the adjustments to the profile you want to match in grams per gallon, then press the "Mash and Sparge Totals" button on the profiler screen. It is here you will find the mineral additions to actually add to the water, as Ounces or Grams. Sorry but we do not support the "tsp" measurement, only weight measures. However, I do think this addresses your problem. Feel free to email me directly if you have any further problems understanding the profiler. Cheers! Jeffrey Donovan Beer Engineer The Sausalito Brewing Co. jeffrey at promash.com http://www.promash.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 10:46:01 -0400 From: AJ <ajdel at mindspring.com> Subject: Dropped 0/BU Oops. Typed 10x/y when I wanted 100x/y i.e. to convert the fraction x/y to a percentage in th Plato post. Sorry. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * "craftbrewer" makes the point that one can estimate the level of bitterness in beer by taste alone and that is quite true as long as the taster has something to calibrate against. A pro will brew the same beer with the same materials using the same method day after day and subject each batch to taste tests as part of QC. If his bitterness is off by a few (I say as few as 3 - 5 or perhaps even less) BU he'll know it, i.e. he's calibrated against his own beer or beers. At some time he'll send the beer(s) off to a lab for analysis. Now he's calibrated against an absolute scale and ought to be able to declare the bittereness of an unfamiliar beer to within 5 BU. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 09:56:46 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Replies - Japanese hops, utilization, filters, wheat Graham wrote: >Now jeff i didn't know you were serious about all this. Now >I dont have a GPS but I could get damn close if you like. >So do you want a picture of Hidden Valley. If so I'll get it for >you. Anyway what the point getting it exactly right with a >GPS. Continental drift will mean its wrong almost immediately. >What are we moving, something like a centimetre a year North. Graham It's a wonder you don't get dizzy, upside down and surfing north at such a clip! Actually, that might explain a lot. I thought you might enjoy it as a project. It's the sort of thing that seems to have crossover appeal to many homebrewers. Take a look at http://confluence.org. If it doesn't do anything for you, don't bother. If you still haven't visited by the time I get to Oz in a few years, we can go together and you can point out the quaint local flora and fauna along the way, such as salties, cod and frogs with peculiar appetites, nasty trees, etc. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 10:37:02 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Ale dropping & fermentation temp Tom Smit <tom at lunica-data.com.au> asked > Does any one practise dropping with aeration? At what time? Have you noticed >any significant positive or negative effects? Graham talks about northern >yeasts needing rousing-how does this relate to Wyeast & White Labs yeasts? >Perhaps a note re rousing/dropping could be added to the table of yeasts >someone wants to build up? In the past I experimented with (OK, it wasn't true experimentation) with dropping with aeration at high kraeusen, about 24-36 hours, but I got such high diacetyl levels that I discontinued it. It was worthwhile for the experience. Some yeasts are more prone to diacetyl production than others, and some (the true Ringwood is one) apparently need this boost of oxygen to ferment the wort fully. A bit of diacetyl can enhance the maltiness of some ales, but I find it off-putting in very high levels at all. Our local Ringwood brewpub's beers all have a house character of high levels. Now I will often drop, again with aeration, at 14 hours. This period was suggested at MCAB 1 by Danstar/Lallemand's Dr. Clayton Cone as being the time at which the yeast have exhausted their various reserves that can be restored by oxygen. Apparently they are still actively enough fermenting to take care of any excess diacetyl that this might produce. This period is also serendipitously the time at which commercial brewers who fill a fermenter with two successive brews will add new, aerated wort to the fermenting wort from the first brew. I have not noted any increase in diacetyl when dropping at 14 hours, and, of course, there is the advantage of leaving behind break material and other trub. I'll leave the question of 24C fermentation by-products to others except to say that it will probably produce more flavors that some consider off flavors than lower temperatures, including higher alcohols (fusels). Glad the bock is progressing well. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 10:41:21 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: long primary Jon Sandlin <sandlin at bendcable.com> of Bend, OR, is concerned: >I have a batch that I made right before the holidays and I have neglected to >bottle; it has been in the primary fermenter for about a month now. Will >there be enough viable yeast in order to carbonate in bottles? Do I need to >rack to a secondary or can I just bottle? What should I do. Thanks in >advance for your help. We've all done this, and some brewers do it routinely, making sure that there is not excess head space or air exchange. I assume your beer is now clear enough to bottle, so it won't need any further settling. In this case, just rack to your bottling bucket and be sure to pick up just a little extra yeast from the bottom with the tip of your racking cane. Don't worry, it will be viable. The advantage of this is that you will have very little sediiment on the bottom of your bottles. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 08:44:18 -0800 From: Jim Cave <cave at psc.org> Subject: Moldy Marris Otter... What was the brand? Have you tasted/chewed the malt? It it was moldy, I'd take it back if you've only recently bought it. I finally threw out a bag of old crystal malt that had gone somewhat "slack" or soft. I felt this had given an off flavour to my beer. I use Beeston's Marris otter. I buy it from a Brew Pub and find it excellent. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 11:39:30 -0500 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Uses for Spent Grains/Radiation-Reinheitgebot vs Gauss' law. Jim Layton writes ... >. [...] I have never observed birds paying any attention >to the spent grain. I've seen doves, starlings & crows at spent grist tho' they are not avid about it. I've got reports on another forum of wild turkeys and pheasants going nuts for it. Several folks have noted their chickens love spent grist. I don't see songbirds at it, but if you find ones that like it - you are not doing them any favors. Wild birds are fricken picky eaters. Deer since they'll be eating treebark & the bitter heads off my tulips by Spring, grist is a given. Wouldn't surprise me if they went for the house siding & shingles too. Jeff Renner adds ... > Maybe Michigan wildlife > is smarter than Ohio wildlife? You Michigan deer xenophobes ! It's the human population Jeff. I live in an urbanized county w/ a national and a lot of muni's. The urban know-nothing-nature-nuts refuse to allow any herd control. The deer safely remain inside the parks during hunting season, so you can find them starving by late Winter. OTOH I know of only one MIchigander who doesn't hunt deer, and he's a transplant. ? Oh yeah - loved the venison & veh mit pfifferling I had several times in Germany, goes nicely with a pils and segues into another use for spent grist ... Fungi. I've had a couple decent crops of edible puffballs (Lycoperdon perlatum) after seeding some grist + tree litter compost with spores. Bob Devine chimes in ... >Try a little in some bread. If you love the way those husks scratch all the way down, try some peanut hulls or sawdust or straw for a really fiberous loaf. I prefer some cracked & soaked wheat , rye, malt or other grain better than spent grist. Better to splurge the extra 5 cents for grain or malt in your bread IMO. Made a racked rye+crystal malt loaf Saturday - great stuff. == Marc D says ... >Also what would you call you first microwave RIMS brew? Three Mile >Island Ale? China Syndrome Stout? Hanford Weizen? I should stop now... This would be funny if there was a relationship between electromagnetic and nuclear radiation. The major source of EM radiation is the Sun (it fluxes 1.3KW per sq.meter at the earth's surface). If you believe a microwave or a sunny day is like Chernobyl you should wrap yourself in aluminum foil before you go outside. It's not so much for protection as for easy identification of the highly gullible. Name for a microwaved brew - the Klystronator, Magnetron Marzen, or a Helmholtz Ale ? == Very odd transition to the new millenia - suddenly Phil & Jill are post about brewing and Jeff Renner is fixated on Burradoo and GPS apps. BTW - for the many who wrote asking, the Enzyme Kinetics series will continue. The deciding vote was Pat Babcock's as he threatened to festoon my brewery in plaid if I stopped. The rate of production just slowed as my original notes ran out and my available time decreased due to biz travel. -Steve Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 11:47:33 -0500 From: "patrick finerty jr." <zinc at finerty.net> Subject: Re: dumb questions for the group howdy Richard (and Laura), On January 7, 2001, Richard & Laura wrote: > 1) Is there any reason NOT to "rinse" my carboys with a small amount of > clear grain alcohol (vodka, rum) as a final step in the sanitizing process? > The carboys have been thoroughly rinsed, but I want to negate anything bad > in my tap water. i would avoid rum as it may contribute some flavor to the brew. i'm curious what the step before this is? you really shouldn't need to do this if you sanitized properly for your penultimate step. also, i'm doubtful that the alcohol rinse would be very effective if the actual exposure time is short. > 2) Should I try to aerate the beer when racking from the primary fermenter > to the secondary fermenter? It seems to give the yeast new vigor. no! you really want to avoid adding O2 at this point. i always purge my secondaries and cornies with CO2 to minimize exposure of the virgin beer to O2. it can lead to staling (kind of a cardboard like flavor) and a shorter shelf life for the beer. slainte, -patrick, enjoyed too much porter yesterday... - -- "There is only one aim in life and that is to live it." Karl Shapiro,(1959) from an essay on Henry Miller's Tropic of Cancer finger pfinerty at nyx10.nyx.net for PGP key http://finerty.net/pjf Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 13:47:28 -0500 From: "Schneider, Brett" <Brett_Schneider at bose.com> Subject: Call for BHC7 Judges and Stewards As you hopefully read in recent past HBdigests, the Boston Wort Processors are hosting our 7th annual homebrew competition on Saturday Febrewary 10, 2001 at the Northeast Brewing Company (brewpub) in Alston MA, just outside the walls from Boston. And, once again, we are an MCAB qualifying event as well. I am this years judge coordinator, and if any of you readers are able to come and help judge and or steward we'll make sure to take good care of you. Please visit www.wort.org for full details and forms for entering and for helping the judging effort. I am looking for basic information on you, your entries, and your preferences in judging and stewarding. Send your registrations with the information requested, using the subject line of BHC7 Judge (regardless of judge or steward aspirations) to me at: BikeNBrew at hotmail.com Thanks - we hope to see you there - Brett Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 11:34:54 -0800 (PST) From: Steve <gravelse at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Brewater and Promash Pete asked: >I agree and I have used Brewater a lot in the past. My son got me Promash >for xmas and it looks like it uses Brewater for its water calculations. >Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to have the "tsp" option. It seems to be >limited to "Grams Per Gallon". Is that correct? I took a quick look at >the Helps and couldn't find any way to get the output in "tsp per total >H2O" or per gallon. I been using Promash for the last 9 months and I've asked Jeffrey Donovan the "Promash guy" about that very subject. Here's the response I got: >: Can you add a grams to teaspoon conversion chart or function to the >water profiler? > >Yes we are considering this but are still unsure of the exact >implementation.....I'll admit it's not the highest priority in the "todo" >list at the present, but we will get to it! Jeff is very good at providing service, answering questions about the program, making changes recommended by the users and providing FREE updates to the software. I HIGHLY recommend that everyone who likes using a computer and enjoys homebrewing, surf to the site http://www.promash.com/ and check out the FREE Promash evaluation software. It's well worth the $25 (US) for the real thing and you can even buy it over the internet with a credit card. Okay, I'm done. No, I'm not affiliated with the product in any way. I'm just a very satisfied customer who likes playing with software. SteveG Software/Hardware Test Engineer "Homebrew, it's not just a hobby, it's an adventure!" Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 14:40:00 -0500 From: "Strom C. Thacker" <sthacker at bu.edu> Subject: Blue camping pad as insulator Hi all, I stumbled across an old post of Alan McKay's from last Oct. that mentioned that those blue camping pads make great insulators. Well, I had a couple lying around, so this weekend I put together a double-layered insulator for my sankey mash tun's sides and top. It goes down to a few inches above the bottom of the keg. Here's my question: does anyone out there know how heat resistant these things are? I use direct fire to heat my mash tun. Will I be melting this stuff? I can slide it off during temp boosts if necessary, but I'd just as soon keep as much heat in as possible, especially during the winter. Thanks, Strom Newton, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 13:53:47 -0600 From: "Richard Sieben" <sier1 at email.msn.com> Subject: Alan Davies question Alan, you are thinking maybe your malt has gone slack due to moisture pickup? (I think) you would notice less extraction from a given quantity of grain if that was the case. You also mention an off smell, what does it smell like? Does the plastic drum the malt is stored in have a similar smell? Most likely we need to see what your mashing schedule is and you probably have some kind of infection or some leftover cleaner and sanitizer in your system someplace. To be of any real assistance, we would need more details: please post your mashing schedule recipe how do you clean and sanitize description of the flavor hope we can all help. Rich Sieben Island Lake, IL Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 12:58:14 -0800 (PST) From: Beaverplt <beaverplt at yahoo.com> Subject: Old Stuff besdies myself Howdy all, I was getting ready to brew a batch yesterday when I got myself sidetracked. My corner of the storage room where all my brewing equipment is stored had turned into a mess since I have a habit of not putting things away properly. The bad news is I never got started brewing. BUT, I found a couple of items that I'm wondering if they are any good. One is a bag of Halertau hops, not pellets, that I don't remember buying. I'm guessing it's well over a year old. It was not in the fridge. I've never used anything but hop pellets so I don't know whether this would be usable or not. The other is a smack pack of Irish ale yeat with a date of October 2000 on it. It was refridgerated. I didn't know yeast expired if you kept it refridgerated. Should I toss this? Thanks Jerry "Beaver" Pelt Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 14:58:50 -0800 From: John Palmer <jjpalmer at gte.net> Subject: Re. "Bogus" Water Reports Hi Group, I just wanted to clarify AJ's comment yesterday that most city water reports are bogus and physically impossible to produce. His statement is true, but the reason may not be readily apparent, and that is what I wanted to explain. A water report is typically an annual report and thus is a list of averages. In any single sampling, all the ions must (and do) electrically add up to the measured pH. But once you start taking averages, you lose the interrelationship between the equilibriums, and thus producing a batch of water to average is often impossible. This is yet another reason why Close Is Good Enough when it comes to trying to match a particular cities water. -John - -- John Palmer Palmer House Brewery and Smithy http://www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer How To Brew - the online book http://www.howtobrew.com Let there be Peace on Earth. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 20:47:31 -0500 From: "Charles R. Stewart" <Charles at TheStewarts.com> Subject: re: Reducing Cider Alcohol Level, Brewing Racks, & Kegs I kept one continuous keg of cider all fall. When it became a little too dry, I just added a little sweet cider. Worked quite well. Also, I solved the problem of a rack for my home-rigged RIMS system. After coming up with all kinds of plans, looking in junk yards for scrap steel, checking into renting welding equipment, I found a much easier solution. The local Costco store had commercial-quality restaurant racks on wheels for $74.95. They're chrome-plated steel, rated for food service, sturdy (holds 600+ pounds), AND THEY HAVE WHEELS! I can keep it against the wall, and when I'm ready to brew, just wheel it out to the center of the kitchen. Also, it's very easy to run the wiring and plumbing. I've done three batches on it and it works very well. If you want to see it in action, I'll have pictures on http://Charles.TheStewarts.com. Finally, I came across a whole bunch of 3 gallon kegs and I've put 'em up on e-Bay. I hope this doesn't violate the HBD terms, but if any bidder mentions HBD, I'll knock of 15%. The Digest has done a lot for me, and I'd like to return the favor. Chip Stewart Charles at TheStewarts.com http://Charles.TheStewarts.com Pursuant to United States Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, Section 227, any and all unsolicited commercial e-mail (spam) sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee of US$500.00. The sending or forwarding of such e-mail constitutes acceptance of these terms. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 21:17:52 -0700 From: "Richard & Laura" <dromedary at worldnet.att.net> Subject: trapped CO2 Greetings all, Many replied to my question about aerating the beer when racking to the secondary fermenter. Thanks! The unanimous answer: NO! Minimize air contact when racking! Now, I have another question: Is there any way to (or even a reason to) try to release the CO2 that is dissolved in the beer? Does the trapped CO2 cause any problems or offer any benefits? Richard Dulany Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 01/09/01, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96
Convert This Page to Pilot DOC Format