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FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
***************************************************************
THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:
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Contents:
Starlink corn, FHB and other gmo stuff (Michael Doehnel)
GM corn (Edward Doernberg)
the Palm thingy at the bottom of the Digest (Marc Sedam)
Gott coolers online (Greg Owen)
Re: Warm kegs (Doug Hurst)
Re: did i do wrong (Steve)
Re: GM Brews? ("patrick finerty jr.")
Re: BJCP PDF conversions ("Bruce Francis")
AHA Big Brew ("Paul Gatza")
Need Gott cooler spigot source (Bob Sweeney)
Am I ready for all grain? (Randy Miner)
"Bottle Hopping" ("Jeff Woods")
Re: Re: Warm kegs (Some Guy)
wooden Budweizer cases (happydog)
The Pivo /Yates Pilsner ("Phil & Jill Yates")
long hop boils...sam adams (Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative)
GM food (craftbrewer)
GABF Dates Official ("Paul Gatza")
what's next for well-aerated beer? ("Richard B. Dulany Jr.")
*
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy!
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* Bluebonnet Brew-Off Entry Deadline is 2/9/01!
* http://welcome.to/bluebonnet for more information
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Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 21:35:01 -0800
From: Michael Doehnel <dfm at telus.net>
Subject: Starlink corn, FHB and other gmo stuff
Unfortunately, there are still many neo scientist geeks who don' t seem to
GET IT. The fact is, that at least as much chemistry is sprayed on our
food crops in both gmo and conventional agricultural. (read your
Agricultural Extension info.) Secondly, conventional agriculture could be
likened to clear cut logging. Neither of them, in today's highly
mechanized production model, is a sustainable activity. GMO crops, like
conventional (meaning herbicides, pesticides, hormone growth regulators and
synthetic fertilizers), make us yet again more efficient at extracting
more from the soil then we are putting back in. It doesn't take a real
Spitz to figure out that this will not go on indefinitely. In reality,
Canadian Prairie farmers are going bankrupt at an astounding rate while
their American and European peers get larger and larger handouts from the
Government. The cost of nitrogen fertilizer has risen dramatically, not
suprisingly, since its production sucks up massive amounts of petroleum
resources. I would have loved to seen the look on the face of some
Californian who's power was out today, had he seen how much nitrogen the
California vegetable growers were puking on their fields just a few months
before. Take for example Fusarium head blight (FHB) which is ravishing
barley crops in the north eastern grain states and now Manitoba also. This
condition was exacerbated significantly by the introduction of notill
agricultural practices. Just spray your favorite glyphosate (RU) and seed
with out having to cultivate the land. Good thinking, save some soil
moisture, and also soil from blowing away. By not turning under the soil
occasionally the organisms responsible for FHB lie dormant on the surface
residue ready for an early start on next years crop. Doing this year after
year for 10 years now has every US Land Grant College and University, plus
their Canadian academic counterparts scrambling for varieties with better
resistance. Unfortunately brewers are not that quick to accept new
varieties of malting barley. A mixture of organic and conventional
practices and new sustainable innovations will do a lot more for the future
health of our food lands then Starlink corn. We should aim to leave the
land for our children in at least the same condition as we got it (with
future potential). This is unless your next of kin is a dog, and then, who
gives a damn anyway.
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 00:07:51 +0800
From: Edward Doernberg <shevedd at q-net.net.au>
Subject: GM corn
in
>Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 20:30:19 -0500
>From: Clark <clark at capital.net>
>Subject: GM corn mostly
Clark wrote that most farmers purchase new seed each year.
well i cant speak for the americans but my step dad grows tritacarly and
i think oats for his feedlot and don't bye new seed each year. he
mentioned that he would need to soon as there was a bit much ri grass at
in his crop now.
but that is not a real problem as long as those that by the seed know
they will need more next year.
the problem is where a farmers crop becomes unsalable because his upwind
neighbor plants a GM crop.
or where the same farmer finds the seeds he gets pollinated from the gm
crop wont grow.
i don't think there should be any large scale production until those
issues are solved.
unfortunately the powers that be are deviled into 3 equal camps. those
that think gm crops will save the world. those that want research
stopped and those that are willing to take "donations" to support those
with a vested interest. that being the manufacturers.
on a more scientific note. how do you get large quantities of seed that
will grow and produce seeds that wont grow.
the traditional approach of grow some and then grow it seeds wont work
so how do they do it.
Edward
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 09:19:57 -0500
From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu>
Subject: the Palm thingy at the bottom of the Digest
I keep seeing this alluring logo at the bottom of the HTML digest
suggesting that, if I only had the skills and ability
(skillability?), I could download my daily HBD on to my
Handspring. I've tried to add the HBD to AvantGo but have been
unsuccessful.
Any Palm techies out there figured this out yet? It would be
hella cool, esp. when I travel.
Cheers!
Marc
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 08:52:58 -0500
From: Greg Owen <gowen at digitalgoods.com>
Subject: Gott coolers online
Steve <gravelse at yahoo.com> and "patrick finerty jr."
<zinc at finerty.net> both pointed out how to find the 10-gallon Gott cooler on
the Rubbermaid site. Unfortunately, you can't buy from the Rubbermaid site;
it points you to local stores. I did this last week and proceeded to tour
said local stores, only to find that a) it's winter, b) insulated coolers
aren't a hot item in winter, and c) the one store that had coolers stocked
didn't go up to 10 gallon.
Dashing off to the web, I found a few homebrew supply sites that had
the item for $55-$60 USD. Then I found the "Ben Meadows Company" who
carries the 10-gallon "Gott by Rubbermaid" cooler for $49 +shipping.
Available here at
http://www.benmeadows.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/scstore/p-240486.html?E+scsto
re.
- --
gowen -- Greg Owen -- gowen at DigitalGoods.com
SoftLock.com is now DigitalGoods!
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 09:06:23 -0600
From: Doug Hurst <DougH at theshowdept.com>
Subject: Re: Warm kegs
Pat Babcock writes:
>>"In keeping kegs warm for dispense in a non-refrigerated draft system,
dispense pressure becomes of concern. Without proper attention to line
lengths, you'll find yourself wearing more beer than you're drinking,
regardless of how chilled your mug is! Keep in mind that beer requiring 13
psi CO2 under refrigeration will require on the order of 25 psi CO2 at
cellar temperature (varies with the difference between your choice of
refrigerated and cellar temperatures, but you get the point). The difference
at the faucet can be quite dramatic!
To "balance" a system like this would likely require enough hose that your
keg will empty at the first draw, leaving you with beer only in the lines
(an exaggeration)! The only reasonable solution, is of course, to use a
jockey box of some sort or chill your beer... :-)"<<
I guess I don't fully understand draft systems. I don't attach any lines to
my warm artificially carbonated kegs. I have a metal tap connected directly
to the quick disconnect and don't run into any foaming or gushing problems.
To carbonate, I presurize the kegs to around 30psi and leave them for a
couple of days. I check the presure regualarly and represurize when it
falls below 30psi. To tap the keg I open the presure release valve on the
keg, letting out all the gas. The first glass is usually about half foam,
but after that, I get perfect draws. After the keg has been tapped I only
put about 10psi in the keg when I'm not pouring from it.
This works for me. What needs to be "balanced" if I don't have a bar-top
tap with lines running to the basement?
Doug Hurst
Chicago, IL
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 07:24:11 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve <gravelse at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: did i do wrong
Hi Edward,
After reading your email, I'm going to take a stab at this. Using your
recipe:
<<22L
5.5kg pale malt
0.5kg crystal malt
0.5kg wheat malt
at the last minute i decided to include first wort hops so the hop bill
became
28g cascade FWH
56g cascade at 40min>>
I came up with the following results:
First, I made some assumptions:
1. 75% mash efficiency for your system,
2. Used Tinseth's IBU calculation formula,
3. Use Whole hops with 6% AAU, and
4. You were shooting for a 60 min. boil.
If you performed a 50 minute boil you would arrive at about 30 IBUs plus a
little more, because the hops would have been steeping in the hot wort
when the fire went out. If you actually did a 90 minute boil then you
would arrive around 52 IBUs. So the range for your beer would be from
30-50 IBUs. If you were using pellet hops the IBUs go up a little to
around 34-58 IBUs.
The range for the India Pale Ale style, according to the American BJCP
style guidelines, is 40-60+ IBUs and 20-40 IBUs for a Pale Ale. So, the
bottom line is, DON'T WORRY, you have either an mid-range IPA or a decent
pale ale.
SteveG
"Homebrew, it's not just a hobby, it's an adventure!"
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 10:45:14 -0500
From: "patrick finerty jr." <zinc at finerty.net>
Subject: Re: GM Brews?
hi folks,
pardon me for acting like a scientist, it's difficult for me to
avoid...
On January 18, 2001, Tom Smit wrote:
> Rats die eating GM potatoes, choocks died (OK, tended to die) GM
> eating corn. GM yield usually 7% less. GM not for this brewer
citations please? you can't just spew this nonsense here and expect us
to swallow it.
i have read about the studies to which you refer and as i recall at
the potato study was not reproducible. furthermore, the only place i
have read about them is in the popular media which has an interest in
stirring up the public to sell more papers or advertising on their
crappy news shows. facts are irrelevant. as i recall several of these
studies were flawed and not accepted by scientific journals. please
give me peer reviewed journal citations for the above work and i'll
gladly review them for the group.
if you're the type who thinks this lack of publication is a result of
some big conspiracy by scientists to keep this information away from
the public, then my opinion is unlikely to matter to you. keep on
huddling in your bunker to avoid the black helicopters and for gawds
sake don't take the foil off your head.
slainte,
-patrick in Toronto
- --
"There is only one aim in life and that is to live it."
Karl Shapiro,(1959) from an essay on Henry Miller's Tropic of Cancer
finger pfinerty at nyx10.nyx.net for PGP key
http://finerty.net/pjf
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 12:11:53 -0500 (EST)
From: "Bruce Francis" <bfrancis at pobox.com>
Subject: Re: BJCP PDF conversions
In Homebrew Digest #3533 Jason Henning noted that the latest BJCP
guidelines are only published in PDF form, and he would rather they
be published in text form or HTML. Not to worry....
I have already pointed Jason to a great solution for this, and wanted
to make this resource know to others. You can convert PDF to either
HTML or TEXT formats by simply attaching the PDF in an email
message to:
PDF to HTML translator <pdf2html at sun.trace.wisc.edu>
PDF to Text translator <pdf2txt at sun.trace.wisc.edu>
You will receive a reply back with the translation of your attachment.
Burp!
- ---
/Bruce/
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 10:01:58 -0700
From: "Paul Gatza" <Paulg at aob.org>
Subject: AHA Big Brew
Thanks for asking about Big Brew, Dave. I was holding off a formal
announcement until all of the content (rules, press release, registration
form, view current sites, remittance form, local press release template)
gets live on www.beertown.org, which I hope happens by the end of the month
or early February. The remittance part is especially important as that
creates statistics that make a press release more likely to be distributed
widely. The AHA Big Brew will again coincide with National Homebrew Day on
the first Saturday of May (May 5th in 2001). I plan on brewing and
celebrating with the folks at the Southern California Homebrewers Festival.
The ancient Chinese cyclical calendar declares this the year of the CAP, so
we have turned to Jeff Renner's recipe for "Your Father's Mustache." Because
not all homebrewers have the system to lager, we have also added an American
Brown Ale to the official recipe list and for the brewers of hybrid styles,
we have received permission from Scott Abene to use his Cream Ale recipe,
entitled "Genessee My Butt." Versions of each recipe will be available for
brewers who choose to employ extract kits, extracts with specialty grains
and all-grain. These ideas were forwarded by an informal committee of
brewers who have been involved in past Big Brews.
One of my goals with forwarding two lighter colored styles as official
recipes is that the brewing and sampling of these beers may serve as a
friendly gateway to our hobby with individuals who have chosen not to
investigate deeply into the world of beer due to fear of beer color or body.
A simultaneous toast will again happen at noon central time.
Paul Gatza
Director-American Homebrewers Association
Association of Brewers
736 Pearl St. (303) 447-0816 ext. 122
Boulder, CO 80302 (303) 447-2825 fax
mailto:paulg at aob.org
Join the AHA at www.beertown.org
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 13:19:26 -0500 (EST)
From: Bob Sweeney <bobsweeney at email.com>
Subject: Need Gott cooler spigot source
Thanks to those who provided the info on how to
locate the 10 gallon Gott (now Rubbermaid) water
coolers on the Rubbermaid web site.
Using the dealer locator I managed to find one locally
for less than $30. I would like to modify the cooler
to be used as a sparge tank and consequently was
wondering if anyone knew of a source, preferably
cheap, for an adjustable spigot to fit this model
that will hold up under relatively high temps
required for sparge water?
- --
Bob Sweeney
Mobile, AL
Westheimer's Discovery: A couple of months in the
laboratory can save a couple of hours in the library.
-Frank H. Westheimer, chemistry professor
- -----------------------------------------------
FREE! The World's Best Email Address at email.com
Reserve your name now at http://www.email.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 12:51:24 -0500
From: Randy Miner <randy at metzbridges.com>
Subject: Am I ready for all grain?
Hi all, It's been a year since I've brewed, and haven't been reading hbd
lately either. I need to motivate myself...
I have brewed about a dozen partial mash batches. I want to brew again
in the next week or so, and want to finally make the jump to all grain.
My problem is cooling the wort w/o a pump, cf chiller, or money to get
equip. What are my alternatives???
My current setup is nothing fancy. I have a temp controlled beer
fridge, 3 15 gal keg/pots (dreaming of a 3-tier), 1 propane burner, two
5 gal carboys, a copper pipe loop with slits for mashing in one of the
kegs, and other misc. stuff. So I'm looking for a simple recipe that I
can't destroy too easily, and that will account for my very low tech
system (low extraction, rough temperature control, etc). Also, can I
boil, cover and let cool overnight with minimal risk of infection if I
work up a decent starter? (please, no extended debate on this overnight
cooling thing!) I do have a stir plate (homemade) for making starters
and an O2 bottle/stone (which I haven't used yet!).
I like most styles, from brown ales to ESBs to sweet stouts, etc. So
style is not too important for my first all-grain as long as it's
relatively simple.
Thanks!
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 15:04:39 -0500
From: "Jeff Woods" <woodsj at us.ibm.com>
Subject: "Bottle Hopping"
Here's one that I've not seen after several years of mostly
lurking. A search of the past digests did not get any real
combinations of "bottle and hop*".
I bottled a barleywine last weekend that was made the day
after Thanksgiving (late November for the Aussies and others)
with my brew buddy Jeff Beinhaur. I swear if I had to bottle
regularly I'd quit this hobby, but that's another subject. A little
'speriment was conducted. A few 12 oz. bottles were filled with
2 Cascade hop cones each and capped. I made sure the
liquid saturated the cones for the full effect of contact with the
finished beer. Does anyone have experience with bottle
hopping and what can be expected ? The finished gravity
was 1.020 and had stayed there for a few weeks so I'm quite
sure fermentation was complete. I don't plan to open these
for at least 1-2 months.
I'm interested in the results and who might have tried this before.
There shouldn't be any risk of creating bottle bombs......or should
there ?
Jeff Woods
Camp Hill, PA
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 00:10:08 -0500 (EST)
From: Some Guy <pbabcock at hbd.org>
Subject: Re: Re: Warm kegs
Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager...
Doug Hurst <DougH at theshowdept.com> writes (on one of my
"religious" subjects ;-)...
> I guess I don't fully understand draft systems. I don't attach any lines to
> my warm artificially carbonated kegs. I have a metal tap connected directly
> to the quick disconnect and don't run into any foaming or gushing problems.
> To carbonate, I presurize the kegs to around 30psi and leave them for a
> couple of days. I check the presure regualarly and represurize when it
> falls below 30psi. To tap the keg I open the presure release valve on the
> keg, letting out all the gas. The first glass is usually about half foam,
> but after that, I get perfect draws. After the keg has been tapped I only
> put about 10psi in the keg when I'm not pouring from it.
>
> This works for me. What needs to be "balanced" if I don't have a bar-top
> tap with lines running to the basement?
>
No sweat - most don't understand it. There's nothing WRONG with the way
you're doing your thing (there are many ways to skin a cat, and the cat
doesn't like ANY of them :-), and, if your kegs go quickly, you'll
probably never notice any ill effects from your practice. However, there
are ways to dispense that don't compromise the carbonation level in your
beer as your method does.
Here's the drill.
With a balanced system, you don't need to play any of those pressure games
- you leave the keg at the proper carbonation pressure, and simply
dispense the beer. No venting, no foam, no outgassing from the beer -
stable carbonation level throughout the dispense.
In your scenario, you vent the head pressure, and let the outgassing of
the beer drive it through the lines until it achieves some sort of balance
on its own (hence the foam). You then charge the the keg with 10 psig to
drive the beer. As the beer sits, over time, the level of carbonation you
worked to achieve by applying 30 psig day after day drops by 2/3 due to
the 10 psig on the head and the dispensing of beer - the batch seeks a new
equilibrium at the lower pressure level. The effect is incremental - not
immediate - and depends on changes in the closed environent of the keg to
manifest itself.
If you drop the pressure and then never dispense a beer, the carbonation
level will drop to something between level at 30 psig and the level at 10
psig and stay there. Your gauge would show a pressure higher than the
intended 10 psig. As you dispense beer, the carbonation level will keep
moving to the equilibrium level at 10 psig. The CO2 in the beer rushes out
to fill the head and find an equal "partial pressure" of CO2 above and
below the surface of the beer. Try this, if you have a gauge: carbonate
your beer as you usually do at 30 psig. Once stable, vent the head
pressure completely, then close the vent again. Read the head pressure
with your gauge. Wait a day, then read the pressure again. You've just
demonstrated Henry's law and the reason why balancing your draft system is
A Good Thing [tm]. The CO2 in your beer left it in order to fill up the
head with CO2.
In a BALANCED system, you serve the beer using the same pressure you used
to carbonate it - the beer remains at its ideal carbonation pressure until
the last drop is served - the "partial pressure" of CO2 above and below
the surface of the beer remains relatively constant. The higher pressure
needed to do this is accommodated by using enough restriction in the
dispense line such that the velocity at the faucet is reasonable.
THere are other wasy to achive this restriction as well. Friend Jim Suchy
recently showed me a cornie faucet he acquired locally that incorporates a
restriction that allows him to attach it directly to the keg. There, the
restriction is provided through an narrow opening in the faucet body. In
most applications, though, the serving hose type, ID and length is
selected such that it has enough restriction to balance the system at the
required flow rate (there, Dave and Jeff! Won't catch me on that one THIS
time!).
For a better understanding of it, look for Dave Miller's article on the
subject in the book: "Just Brew It" which is a transcript of one of the
AHA Home Brewers Conference from some years back ('93?). THe book should
be avaiable fom the AHA or your local homebrew shop. You can also search
the Digest archives because this comes up again and again...
- --
-
See ya!
Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org
Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org
HBD Web Site http://hbd.org
The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock
"The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged
from my yeast lab Saturday
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 21:59:40 GMT
From: happydog at nations.net
Subject: wooden Budweizer cases
> Cases. Recently while traveling, I made a
>stop in Detroit for a connecting flight. On display in the pub there was a
>refurbished antique Ford truck with a full load of antique wooden Budweizer
>cases. All wood cases with cutout handles, shiny metal clasps and hinges,
>painted logo and varnished
I have a friend and customer that makes wooden beer bottle and wine
bottle cases for my shop similar to the ones you are talking about..
He makes them out of pallets so they are as finished as the Bud eagle
cases but they are still nice. They run 25 to 35 bones. He also makes
some great canoes and kayaks along with some great chairs to sit in
when drinking beer ;-)
Take a look at his site to get an Idea of the craftsmanship.
http://www.geocities.com/carolinaclassicboats/
Wil Kolb
Happy Dog Brewing Supplies
401 W.Coleman Blvd
Mt Pleasant SC 29464
843-971-0805
Fax 843-971-3084
1-800-528-9391
happydog at nations.net
www.maltydog.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 08:43:30 +1100
From: "Phil & Jill Yates" <yates at acenet.com.au>
Subject: The Pivo /Yates Pilsner
Tony Barnsley writes:
>It comes from
>something I read a while back that said that the brewers at >Plzen 'simmer'
>their wort for 3 hours rather than boil hard the way we >normally do
I was not aware of this until Doc Pivo mentioned this lengthy boil to me. In
fact he said it used to be a four hour boil. We conducted ours as a rolling
boil but Tony's mention of a simmer is most interesting.
I once conducted a "simmer" boil back when I used an electric immersion
heater and the local power supply suffered a severe voltage drop on my brew
day. I was going to murder someone from the Electricity Suppliers and I rang
and told them so. How dare they cause such a disaster on my brew day!! I
must have been quite convincing on the phone as they refused to come out and
fix it until Jill promised I would be adequately constrained.
Interestingly, the resulting beer was wonderful and I noticed no particular
loss of bitterness. "Voltage Drop Lager" as it became known, was well
received.
Doc Pivo says this lengthy boil adds something to the flavour which may have
been lost by not doing a decoction (which we didn't, just a step mash at
52C, 64C and 69C).
I have in my time knocked back a few Pilsner Urquells but sadly this is one
of my few references to Czech pilsners. In any case, they could hardly be
called fresh by the time they get to Australia. I had a few waiting here for
the Doc and he confirmed that a lot was missing in the bottle compared to
the fresh variety in its homeland. I would like to try the draught version
fresh from the brewery. But even so, the Doc tells me it just aint as good
as it used to be. He's been in love with the style for many years.
Hopping for our brew was firstly FWHopping, then additions throughout the
full boil complete with steeping at the end.
It is now lagering at about -2C. The Doc is hoping for high levels of
diacetyl which he says is a part of the style and helps to balance out the
high hopping rates. Makes sense to me but how are we going to achieve this?
Well he says he has a trick up his sleeve to be revealed when he gets back
here in February. Inducing diacetyl? I will be most interested to find out
how.
Cheers
Phil
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 09:36:54 +1100 (EST)
From: Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative <Scott.Morgan at aus.sun.com>
Subject: long hop boils...sam adams
Phil et all,
Long hop simmers. At what point are the bittering hops added??
Pls advise.
re Sam Adam, as we say time and time again, we aint got much down here,
and what we have got aint much! Sam Adams actually uses hops...a practice
most commercial brewers in Oz would find utterly unacceptable and gave up years
ago. Bloody useless things according to these fella's. Hops, who needs them!?
Scotty
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 10:15:16 +1100
From: craftbrewer at telstra.easymail.com.au
Subject: GM food
G'day All
Now all this talk about GM food should be put in perspective.
While they are splicing only one strand of genetic coding (even
if its cross species) into an organism I can see no real harm.
Mind you looking at SWMBO makes me thankful theres only
one of her in the world. Could stand seeing anyone else suffer
like me.
They chemical boys conduct more tests than my doctor on me
with my annual check up (rubber glove and all), on the lightly
reactions that could occur with the new protein that could be
produced. Any negative reaction, well they chuck it out,
(hopefully in not into the wild). Now thats the good of the
science.
So wheres the bad. I am very worried when (and it will come -
mark my words) when they dont stop at one, but add two,
three.....a hundred different genes. Now the permutations, if
you like number of likely reactions will increase exponentially
(a huge amount) the more genes you spice into a cell. There
is just no way they can test for all the possible reactions that
could occur. But we will be given the clap trap thats its safe,
and if one gene is ok, 5 different ones together will also be
ok, and so on.
I can accept a couple of new gene additions, but not a couple
of hundred..........................................
Shout
Graham Sanders
Oh
Yes two serious posts. Another hangover.
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Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 15:32:39 -0700
From: "Paul Gatza" <Paulg at aob.org>
Subject: GABF Dates Official
Brewing Matters, one of the sister divisions of the American Homebrewers
Association here at the Association of Brewers, is pleased to announce
official dates for the 2001 Great American Beer Festival. The GABF will be
September 27 through 29, 2001. Brewing Matters Director Nancy Johnson held
off on the original dates open to us for an August festival, with the hope
that a more desirable time would magically appear. Fortunately it did when
the water parks convention decided that Orlando would be a more suitable
site for them. (Although a merging of the two events could have fun
possibilities.)
We moved the GABF across the street to the Colorado Convention Center from
the old Currigan Hall location for the 2000 festival, after Denver voters
approved a renovation of the complex that involves demolition of Currigan
Hall. The first year in the new festival home was a blast for most attendees
and brewers, and we have incorporated many of the comments from 2000
participants into the planning for the 2001 GABF with a goal of making the
20th anniversary of the GABF rewarding for all who come to Denver.
The Denver Marriott City Center will again be the host hotel for the
festival.
Paul Gatza
Director-American Homebrewers Association
Association of Brewers
736 Pearl St. (303) 447-0816 ext. 122
Boulder, CO 80302 (303) 447-2825 fax
mailto:paulg at aob.org
Join the AHA at www.beertown.org
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Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 10:09:44 -0700
From: "Richard B. Dulany Jr." <RDulany at co.el-paso.tx.us>
Subject: what's next for well-aerated beer?
Greetings All,
I kegged my well-aerated beer last weekend. I feared a stuck fermentation
and aerated the beer when transferring it to the secondary fermenter. It
foamed up, but the yeast really became active and finished the fermentation
down to the target gravity. And, the beer is now quite tasty. : )
In response to my post, many of you suggested that this beer will taste like
cardboard and have a short shelf-life. What should I expect to happen to
this beer based on HBD readers ACTUAL experiences with well-aerated beer? I
don't think shelf-life will be an issue as my beers are usually drunk within
6-8 weeks after being kegged. The keg will be refrigerated at 38F until
emptied.
Salud!
Richard Dulany
El Paso, TX
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