HOMEBREW Digest #3534 Fri 19 January 2001

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  Starlink corn, FHB and other gmo stuff (Michael Doehnel)
  GM corn (Edward Doernberg)
  the Palm thingy at the bottom of the Digest (Marc Sedam)
  Gott coolers online (Greg Owen)
  Re: Warm kegs (Doug Hurst)
  Re:  did i do wrong (Steve)
  Re: GM Brews? ("patrick finerty jr.")
  Re: BJCP PDF conversions ("Bruce Francis")
  AHA Big Brew ("Paul Gatza")
  Need Gott cooler spigot source (Bob Sweeney)
  Am I ready for all grain? (Randy Miner)
  "Bottle Hopping" ("Jeff Woods")
  Re: Re: Warm kegs (Some Guy)
  wooden Budweizer cases (happydog)
  The Pivo /Yates Pilsner ("Phil & Jill Yates")
  long hop boils...sam adams (Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative)
  GM food (craftbrewer)
  GABF Dates Official ("Paul Gatza")
  what's next for well-aerated beer? ("Richard B. Dulany Jr.")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 21:35:01 -0800 From: Michael Doehnel <dfm at telus.net> Subject: Starlink corn, FHB and other gmo stuff Unfortunately, there are still many neo scientist geeks who don' t seem to GET IT. The fact is, that at least as much chemistry is sprayed on our food crops in both gmo and conventional agricultural. (read your Agricultural Extension info.) Secondly, conventional agriculture could be likened to clear cut logging. Neither of them, in today's highly mechanized production model, is a sustainable activity. GMO crops, like conventional (meaning herbicides, pesticides, hormone growth regulators and synthetic fertilizers), make us yet again more efficient at extracting more from the soil then we are putting back in. It doesn't take a real Spitz to figure out that this will not go on indefinitely. In reality, Canadian Prairie farmers are going bankrupt at an astounding rate while their American and European peers get larger and larger handouts from the Government. The cost of nitrogen fertilizer has risen dramatically, not suprisingly, since its production sucks up massive amounts of petroleum resources. I would have loved to seen the look on the face of some Californian who's power was out today, had he seen how much nitrogen the California vegetable growers were puking on their fields just a few months before. Take for example Fusarium head blight (FHB) which is ravishing barley crops in the north eastern grain states and now Manitoba also. This condition was exacerbated significantly by the introduction of notill agricultural practices. Just spray your favorite glyphosate (RU) and seed with out having to cultivate the land. Good thinking, save some soil moisture, and also soil from blowing away. By not turning under the soil occasionally the organisms responsible for FHB lie dormant on the surface residue ready for an early start on next years crop. Doing this year after year for 10 years now has every US Land Grant College and University, plus their Canadian academic counterparts scrambling for varieties with better resistance. Unfortunately brewers are not that quick to accept new varieties of malting barley. A mixture of organic and conventional practices and new sustainable innovations will do a lot more for the future health of our food lands then Starlink corn. We should aim to leave the land for our children in at least the same condition as we got it (with future potential). This is unless your next of kin is a dog, and then, who gives a damn anyway. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 00:07:51 +0800 From: Edward Doernberg <shevedd at q-net.net.au> Subject: GM corn in >Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 20:30:19 -0500 >From: Clark <clark at capital.net> >Subject: GM corn mostly Clark wrote that most farmers purchase new seed each year. well i cant speak for the americans but my step dad grows tritacarly and i think oats for his feedlot and don't bye new seed each year. he mentioned that he would need to soon as there was a bit much ri grass at in his crop now. but that is not a real problem as long as those that by the seed know they will need more next year. the problem is where a farmers crop becomes unsalable because his upwind neighbor plants a GM crop. or where the same farmer finds the seeds he gets pollinated from the gm crop wont grow. i don't think there should be any large scale production until those issues are solved. unfortunately the powers that be are deviled into 3 equal camps. those that think gm crops will save the world. those that want research stopped and those that are willing to take "donations" to support those with a vested interest. that being the manufacturers. on a more scientific note. how do you get large quantities of seed that will grow and produce seeds that wont grow. the traditional approach of grow some and then grow it seeds wont work so how do they do it. Edward Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 09:19:57 -0500 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: the Palm thingy at the bottom of the Digest I keep seeing this alluring logo at the bottom of the HTML digest suggesting that, if I only had the skills and ability (skillability?), I could download my daily HBD on to my Handspring. I've tried to add the HBD to AvantGo but have been unsuccessful. Any Palm techies out there figured this out yet? It would be hella cool, esp. when I travel. Cheers! Marc Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 08:52:58 -0500 From: Greg Owen <gowen at digitalgoods.com> Subject: Gott coolers online Steve <gravelse at yahoo.com> and "patrick finerty jr." <zinc at finerty.net> both pointed out how to find the 10-gallon Gott cooler on the Rubbermaid site. Unfortunately, you can't buy from the Rubbermaid site; it points you to local stores. I did this last week and proceeded to tour said local stores, only to find that a) it's winter, b) insulated coolers aren't a hot item in winter, and c) the one store that had coolers stocked didn't go up to 10 gallon. Dashing off to the web, I found a few homebrew supply sites that had the item for $55-$60 USD. Then I found the "Ben Meadows Company" who carries the 10-gallon "Gott by Rubbermaid" cooler for $49 +shipping. Available here at http://www.benmeadows.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/scstore/p-240486.html?E+scsto re. - -- gowen -- Greg Owen -- gowen at DigitalGoods.com SoftLock.com is now DigitalGoods! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 09:06:23 -0600 From: Doug Hurst <DougH at theshowdept.com> Subject: Re: Warm kegs Pat Babcock writes: >>"In keeping kegs warm for dispense in a non-refrigerated draft system, dispense pressure becomes of concern. Without proper attention to line lengths, you'll find yourself wearing more beer than you're drinking, regardless of how chilled your mug is! Keep in mind that beer requiring 13 psi CO2 under refrigeration will require on the order of 25 psi CO2 at cellar temperature (varies with the difference between your choice of refrigerated and cellar temperatures, but you get the point). The difference at the faucet can be quite dramatic! To "balance" a system like this would likely require enough hose that your keg will empty at the first draw, leaving you with beer only in the lines (an exaggeration)! The only reasonable solution, is of course, to use a jockey box of some sort or chill your beer... :-)"<< I guess I don't fully understand draft systems. I don't attach any lines to my warm artificially carbonated kegs. I have a metal tap connected directly to the quick disconnect and don't run into any foaming or gushing problems. To carbonate, I presurize the kegs to around 30psi and leave them for a couple of days. I check the presure regualarly and represurize when it falls below 30psi. To tap the keg I open the presure release valve on the keg, letting out all the gas. The first glass is usually about half foam, but after that, I get perfect draws. After the keg has been tapped I only put about 10psi in the keg when I'm not pouring from it. This works for me. What needs to be "balanced" if I don't have a bar-top tap with lines running to the basement? Doug Hurst Chicago, IL Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 07:24:11 -0800 (PST) From: Steve <gravelse at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: did i do wrong Hi Edward, After reading your email, I'm going to take a stab at this. Using your recipe: <<22L 5.5kg pale malt 0.5kg crystal malt 0.5kg wheat malt at the last minute i decided to include first wort hops so the hop bill became 28g cascade FWH 56g cascade at 40min>> I came up with the following results: First, I made some assumptions: 1. 75% mash efficiency for your system, 2. Used Tinseth's IBU calculation formula, 3. Use Whole hops with 6% AAU, and 4. You were shooting for a 60 min. boil. If you performed a 50 minute boil you would arrive at about 30 IBUs plus a little more, because the hops would have been steeping in the hot wort when the fire went out. If you actually did a 90 minute boil then you would arrive around 52 IBUs. So the range for your beer would be from 30-50 IBUs. If you were using pellet hops the IBUs go up a little to around 34-58 IBUs. The range for the India Pale Ale style, according to the American BJCP style guidelines, is 40-60+ IBUs and 20-40 IBUs for a Pale Ale. So, the bottom line is, DON'T WORRY, you have either an mid-range IPA or a decent pale ale. SteveG "Homebrew, it's not just a hobby, it's an adventure!" Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 10:45:14 -0500 From: "patrick finerty jr." <zinc at finerty.net> Subject: Re: GM Brews? hi folks, pardon me for acting like a scientist, it's difficult for me to avoid... On January 18, 2001, Tom Smit wrote: > Rats die eating GM potatoes, choocks died (OK, tended to die) GM > eating corn. GM yield usually 7% less. GM not for this brewer citations please? you can't just spew this nonsense here and expect us to swallow it. i have read about the studies to which you refer and as i recall at the potato study was not reproducible. furthermore, the only place i have read about them is in the popular media which has an interest in stirring up the public to sell more papers or advertising on their crappy news shows. facts are irrelevant. as i recall several of these studies were flawed and not accepted by scientific journals. please give me peer reviewed journal citations for the above work and i'll gladly review them for the group. if you're the type who thinks this lack of publication is a result of some big conspiracy by scientists to keep this information away from the public, then my opinion is unlikely to matter to you. keep on huddling in your bunker to avoid the black helicopters and for gawds sake don't take the foil off your head. slainte, -patrick in Toronto - -- "There is only one aim in life and that is to live it." Karl Shapiro,(1959) from an essay on Henry Miller's Tropic of Cancer finger pfinerty at nyx10.nyx.net for PGP key http://finerty.net/pjf Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 12:11:53 -0500 (EST) From: "Bruce Francis" <bfrancis at pobox.com> Subject: Re: BJCP PDF conversions In Homebrew Digest #3533 Jason Henning noted that the latest BJCP guidelines are only published in PDF form, and he would rather they be published in text form or HTML. Not to worry.... I have already pointed Jason to a great solution for this, and wanted to make this resource know to others. You can convert PDF to either HTML or TEXT formats by simply attaching the PDF in an email message to: PDF to HTML translator <pdf2html at sun.trace.wisc.edu> PDF to Text translator <pdf2txt at sun.trace.wisc.edu> You will receive a reply back with the translation of your attachment. Burp! - --- /Bruce/ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 10:01:58 -0700 From: "Paul Gatza" <Paulg at aob.org> Subject: AHA Big Brew Thanks for asking about Big Brew, Dave. I was holding off a formal announcement until all of the content (rules, press release, registration form, view current sites, remittance form, local press release template) gets live on www.beertown.org, which I hope happens by the end of the month or early February. The remittance part is especially important as that creates statistics that make a press release more likely to be distributed widely. The AHA Big Brew will again coincide with National Homebrew Day on the first Saturday of May (May 5th in 2001). I plan on brewing and celebrating with the folks at the Southern California Homebrewers Festival. The ancient Chinese cyclical calendar declares this the year of the CAP, so we have turned to Jeff Renner's recipe for "Your Father's Mustache." Because not all homebrewers have the system to lager, we have also added an American Brown Ale to the official recipe list and for the brewers of hybrid styles, we have received permission from Scott Abene to use his Cream Ale recipe, entitled "Genessee My Butt." Versions of each recipe will be available for brewers who choose to employ extract kits, extracts with specialty grains and all-grain. These ideas were forwarded by an informal committee of brewers who have been involved in past Big Brews. One of my goals with forwarding two lighter colored styles as official recipes is that the brewing and sampling of these beers may serve as a friendly gateway to our hobby with individuals who have chosen not to investigate deeply into the world of beer due to fear of beer color or body. A simultaneous toast will again happen at noon central time. Paul Gatza Director-American Homebrewers Association Association of Brewers 736 Pearl St. (303) 447-0816 ext. 122 Boulder, CO 80302 (303) 447-2825 fax mailto:paulg at aob.org Join the AHA at www.beertown.org Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 13:19:26 -0500 (EST) From: Bob Sweeney <bobsweeney at email.com> Subject: Need Gott cooler spigot source Thanks to those who provided the info on how to locate the 10 gallon Gott (now Rubbermaid) water coolers on the Rubbermaid web site. Using the dealer locator I managed to find one locally for less than $30. I would like to modify the cooler to be used as a sparge tank and consequently was wondering if anyone knew of a source, preferably cheap, for an adjustable spigot to fit this model that will hold up under relatively high temps required for sparge water? - -- Bob Sweeney Mobile, AL Westheimer's Discovery: A couple of months in the laboratory can save a couple of hours in the library. -Frank H. Westheimer, chemistry professor - ----------------------------------------------- FREE! The World's Best Email Address at email.com Reserve your name now at http://www.email.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 12:51:24 -0500 From: Randy Miner <randy at metzbridges.com> Subject: Am I ready for all grain? Hi all, It's been a year since I've brewed, and haven't been reading hbd lately either. I need to motivate myself... I have brewed about a dozen partial mash batches. I want to brew again in the next week or so, and want to finally make the jump to all grain. My problem is cooling the wort w/o a pump, cf chiller, or money to get equip. What are my alternatives??? My current setup is nothing fancy. I have a temp controlled beer fridge, 3 15 gal keg/pots (dreaming of a 3-tier), 1 propane burner, two 5 gal carboys, a copper pipe loop with slits for mashing in one of the kegs, and other misc. stuff. So I'm looking for a simple recipe that I can't destroy too easily, and that will account for my very low tech system (low extraction, rough temperature control, etc). Also, can I boil, cover and let cool overnight with minimal risk of infection if I work up a decent starter? (please, no extended debate on this overnight cooling thing!) I do have a stir plate (homemade) for making starters and an O2 bottle/stone (which I haven't used yet!). I like most styles, from brown ales to ESBs to sweet stouts, etc. So style is not too important for my first all-grain as long as it's relatively simple. Thanks! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 15:04:39 -0500 From: "Jeff Woods" <woodsj at us.ibm.com> Subject: "Bottle Hopping" Here's one that I've not seen after several years of mostly lurking. A search of the past digests did not get any real combinations of "bottle and hop*". I bottled a barleywine last weekend that was made the day after Thanksgiving (late November for the Aussies and others) with my brew buddy Jeff Beinhaur. I swear if I had to bottle regularly I'd quit this hobby, but that's another subject. A little 'speriment was conducted. A few 12 oz. bottles were filled with 2 Cascade hop cones each and capped. I made sure the liquid saturated the cones for the full effect of contact with the finished beer. Does anyone have experience with bottle hopping and what can be expected ? The finished gravity was 1.020 and had stayed there for a few weeks so I'm quite sure fermentation was complete. I don't plan to open these for at least 1-2 months. I'm interested in the results and who might have tried this before. There shouldn't be any risk of creating bottle bombs......or should there ? Jeff Woods Camp Hill, PA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 00:10:08 -0500 (EST) From: Some Guy <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Re: Re: Warm kegs Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Doug Hurst <DougH at theshowdept.com> writes (on one of my "religious" subjects ;-)... > I guess I don't fully understand draft systems. I don't attach any lines to > my warm artificially carbonated kegs. I have a metal tap connected directly > to the quick disconnect and don't run into any foaming or gushing problems. > To carbonate, I presurize the kegs to around 30psi and leave them for a > couple of days. I check the presure regualarly and represurize when it > falls below 30psi. To tap the keg I open the presure release valve on the > keg, letting out all the gas. The first glass is usually about half foam, > but after that, I get perfect draws. After the keg has been tapped I only > put about 10psi in the keg when I'm not pouring from it. > > This works for me. What needs to be "balanced" if I don't have a bar-top > tap with lines running to the basement? > No sweat - most don't understand it. There's nothing WRONG with the way you're doing your thing (there are many ways to skin a cat, and the cat doesn't like ANY of them :-), and, if your kegs go quickly, you'll probably never notice any ill effects from your practice. However, there are ways to dispense that don't compromise the carbonation level in your beer as your method does. Here's the drill. With a balanced system, you don't need to play any of those pressure games - you leave the keg at the proper carbonation pressure, and simply dispense the beer. No venting, no foam, no outgassing from the beer - stable carbonation level throughout the dispense. In your scenario, you vent the head pressure, and let the outgassing of the beer drive it through the lines until it achieves some sort of balance on its own (hence the foam). You then charge the the keg with 10 psig to drive the beer. As the beer sits, over time, the level of carbonation you worked to achieve by applying 30 psig day after day drops by 2/3 due to the 10 psig on the head and the dispensing of beer - the batch seeks a new equilibrium at the lower pressure level. The effect is incremental - not immediate - and depends on changes in the closed environent of the keg to manifest itself. If you drop the pressure and then never dispense a beer, the carbonation level will drop to something between level at 30 psig and the level at 10 psig and stay there. Your gauge would show a pressure higher than the intended 10 psig. As you dispense beer, the carbonation level will keep moving to the equilibrium level at 10 psig. The CO2 in the beer rushes out to fill the head and find an equal "partial pressure" of CO2 above and below the surface of the beer. Try this, if you have a gauge: carbonate your beer as you usually do at 30 psig. Once stable, vent the head pressure completely, then close the vent again. Read the head pressure with your gauge. Wait a day, then read the pressure again. You've just demonstrated Henry's law and the reason why balancing your draft system is A Good Thing [tm]. The CO2 in your beer left it in order to fill up the head with CO2. In a BALANCED system, you serve the beer using the same pressure you used to carbonate it - the beer remains at its ideal carbonation pressure until the last drop is served - the "partial pressure" of CO2 above and below the surface of the beer remains relatively constant. The higher pressure needed to do this is accommodated by using enough restriction in the dispense line such that the velocity at the faucet is reasonable. THere are other wasy to achive this restriction as well. Friend Jim Suchy recently showed me a cornie faucet he acquired locally that incorporates a restriction that allows him to attach it directly to the keg. There, the restriction is provided through an narrow opening in the faucet body. In most applications, though, the serving hose type, ID and length is selected such that it has enough restriction to balance the system at the required flow rate (there, Dave and Jeff! Won't catch me on that one THIS time!). For a better understanding of it, look for Dave Miller's article on the subject in the book: "Just Brew It" which is a transcript of one of the AHA Home Brewers Conference from some years back ('93?). THe book should be avaiable fom the AHA or your local homebrew shop. You can also search the Digest archives because this comes up again and again... - -- - See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock "The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged from my yeast lab Saturday Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 21:59:40 GMT From: happydog at nations.net Subject: wooden Budweizer cases > Cases. Recently while traveling, I made a >stop in Detroit for a connecting flight. On display in the pub there was a >refurbished antique Ford truck with a full load of antique wooden Budweizer >cases. All wood cases with cutout handles, shiny metal clasps and hinges, >painted logo and varnished I have a friend and customer that makes wooden beer bottle and wine bottle cases for my shop similar to the ones you are talking about.. He makes them out of pallets so they are as finished as the Bud eagle cases but they are still nice. They run 25 to 35 bones. He also makes some great canoes and kayaks along with some great chairs to sit in when drinking beer ;-) Take a look at his site to get an Idea of the craftsmanship. http://www.geocities.com/carolinaclassicboats/ Wil Kolb Happy Dog Brewing Supplies 401 W.Coleman Blvd Mt Pleasant SC 29464 843-971-0805 Fax 843-971-3084 1-800-528-9391 happydog at nations.net www.maltydog.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 08:43:30 +1100 From: "Phil & Jill Yates" <yates at acenet.com.au> Subject: The Pivo /Yates Pilsner Tony Barnsley writes: >It comes from >something I read a while back that said that the brewers at >Plzen 'simmer' >their wort for 3 hours rather than boil hard the way we >normally do I was not aware of this until Doc Pivo mentioned this lengthy boil to me. In fact he said it used to be a four hour boil. We conducted ours as a rolling boil but Tony's mention of a simmer is most interesting. I once conducted a "simmer" boil back when I used an electric immersion heater and the local power supply suffered a severe voltage drop on my brew day. I was going to murder someone from the Electricity Suppliers and I rang and told them so. How dare they cause such a disaster on my brew day!! I must have been quite convincing on the phone as they refused to come out and fix it until Jill promised I would be adequately constrained. Interestingly, the resulting beer was wonderful and I noticed no particular loss of bitterness. "Voltage Drop Lager" as it became known, was well received. Doc Pivo says this lengthy boil adds something to the flavour which may have been lost by not doing a decoction (which we didn't, just a step mash at 52C, 64C and 69C). I have in my time knocked back a few Pilsner Urquells but sadly this is one of my few references to Czech pilsners. In any case, they could hardly be called fresh by the time they get to Australia. I had a few waiting here for the Doc and he confirmed that a lot was missing in the bottle compared to the fresh variety in its homeland. I would like to try the draught version fresh from the brewery. But even so, the Doc tells me it just aint as good as it used to be. He's been in love with the style for many years. Hopping for our brew was firstly FWHopping, then additions throughout the full boil complete with steeping at the end. It is now lagering at about -2C. The Doc is hoping for high levels of diacetyl which he says is a part of the style and helps to balance out the high hopping rates. Makes sense to me but how are we going to achieve this? Well he says he has a trick up his sleeve to be revealed when he gets back here in February. Inducing diacetyl? I will be most interested to find out how. Cheers Phil Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 09:36:54 +1100 (EST) From: Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative <Scott.Morgan at aus.sun.com> Subject: long hop boils...sam adams Phil et all, Long hop simmers. At what point are the bittering hops added?? Pls advise. re Sam Adam, as we say time and time again, we aint got much down here, and what we have got aint much! Sam Adams actually uses hops...a practice most commercial brewers in Oz would find utterly unacceptable and gave up years ago. Bloody useless things according to these fella's. Hops, who needs them!? Scotty Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 10:15:16 +1100 From: craftbrewer at telstra.easymail.com.au Subject: GM food G'day All Now all this talk about GM food should be put in perspective. While they are splicing only one strand of genetic coding (even if its cross species) into an organism I can see no real harm. Mind you looking at SWMBO makes me thankful theres only one of her in the world. Could stand seeing anyone else suffer like me. They chemical boys conduct more tests than my doctor on me with my annual check up (rubber glove and all), on the lightly reactions that could occur with the new protein that could be produced. Any negative reaction, well they chuck it out, (hopefully in not into the wild). Now thats the good of the science. So wheres the bad. I am very worried when (and it will come - mark my words) when they dont stop at one, but add two, three.....a hundred different genes. Now the permutations, if you like number of likely reactions will increase exponentially (a huge amount) the more genes you spice into a cell. There is just no way they can test for all the possible reactions that could occur. But we will be given the clap trap thats its safe, and if one gene is ok, 5 different ones together will also be ok, and so on. I can accept a couple of new gene additions, but not a couple of hundred.......................................... Shout Graham Sanders Oh Yes two serious posts. Another hangover. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 15:32:39 -0700 From: "Paul Gatza" <Paulg at aob.org> Subject: GABF Dates Official Brewing Matters, one of the sister divisions of the American Homebrewers Association here at the Association of Brewers, is pleased to announce official dates for the 2001 Great American Beer Festival. The GABF will be September 27 through 29, 2001. Brewing Matters Director Nancy Johnson held off on the original dates open to us for an August festival, with the hope that a more desirable time would magically appear. Fortunately it did when the water parks convention decided that Orlando would be a more suitable site for them. (Although a merging of the two events could have fun possibilities.) We moved the GABF across the street to the Colorado Convention Center from the old Currigan Hall location for the 2000 festival, after Denver voters approved a renovation of the complex that involves demolition of Currigan Hall. The first year in the new festival home was a blast for most attendees and brewers, and we have incorporated many of the comments from 2000 participants into the planning for the 2001 GABF with a goal of making the 20th anniversary of the GABF rewarding for all who come to Denver. The Denver Marriott City Center will again be the host hotel for the festival. Paul Gatza Director-American Homebrewers Association Association of Brewers 736 Pearl St. (303) 447-0816 ext. 122 Boulder, CO 80302 (303) 447-2825 fax mailto:paulg at aob.org Join the AHA at www.beertown.org Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 10:09:44 -0700 From: "Richard B. Dulany Jr." <RDulany at co.el-paso.tx.us> Subject: what's next for well-aerated beer? Greetings All, I kegged my well-aerated beer last weekend. I feared a stuck fermentation and aerated the beer when transferring it to the secondary fermenter. It foamed up, but the yeast really became active and finished the fermentation down to the target gravity. And, the beer is now quite tasty. : ) In response to my post, many of you suggested that this beer will taste like cardboard and have a short shelf-life. What should I expect to happen to this beer based on HBD readers ACTUAL experiences with well-aerated beer? I don't think shelf-life will be an issue as my beers are usually drunk within 6-8 weeks after being kegged. The keg will be refrigerated at 38F until emptied. Salud! Richard Dulany El Paso, TX Return to table of contents
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