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FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
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THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:
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Contents:
counterflow chillers (Ken & Bennett Johnson)
RAF & HBD (Spencer W Thomas)
Conical Fermentors ("Joe Sheets")
Re: North Tampa area Beer (gatessux)
My Inline Oxygen/Aeration Set-up ("Brew Dude")
Irish Moss Question ("Abby, Ellen and Alan")
Catching Up - A Disjointed Summary ("Phil & Jill Yates")
Re: Cleaning counter flow chillers ("Joel King")
Chest freezer conversion (fridgeguy)
Bock Fest in Cinti (E.J.)" <eahrendt at visteon.com>
re: chest freezer conversion ("Kensler, Paul")
Aeration Foaming ("Gustave Rappold")
bad day/good day ("S. SNYDER")
("R.M. Opalko")
more hop questions ("S. SNYDER")
Hop forms, max bitterness and Indianapolis ("Peed, John")
Tubing (Brad Miller)
non-malted wheat ("Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies")
Chillin',Burnin', and Keggin' ("Charles R. Stewart")
Bunch O Stuff (JGORMAN)
Strike temp ("Eric R. Lande")
Burner modification, oxygen, molasses ("CozyE")
conicentrical reply ("Steven M. Claussen")
Carbon Dioxide (Gene Collins)
CC fermenters (BrwyFoam)
Plastic Carboys & Attenuation Blues (You Bastards)
steinbeer (Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative)
still on the FWH trail! ("Peter gunczy")
More on Dry Hopping (Bob Sheck)
Oxygenating Wort and Pitching Yeast (Kevin White)
*
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy!
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* Drunk Monk Challenge Entry Deadline is 3/17/01!
* http://www.sgu.net/ukg/dmc/ for more information
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* Maltose Falcons Mayfaire Entry Deadline is 3/20/01!
* http://www.maltosefalcons.com/ for more information
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Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 20:08:02 -0800
From: Ken & Bennett Johnson <fearless1 at abac.com>
Subject: counterflow chillers
Hello All,
I have long been a voyeur of this fine publication. I never wanted to seem
like I was horning in to try to advertise. I have seen the discussion about
counterflow chillers and finally decided to jump in. I learned a long time
ago when I owned an engine parts warehouse that you can't change anybody's
religion. If somebody likes Fel Pro gaskets, you can't make him buy Victor.
I know there is an immersion and a counterflow camp out there. In the
counterflow camp, there is an all copper and a copper-vinyl camp. One fella
says he uses boiling wort moving through his system to sanitize. I am not
going to say whether he is right or wrong. I can say that I have used
counterflow chillers for years. All I have done is use idophor flowing
through for 5 minutes and start chillin'. The most important part is to
flush the system thoroughly, immediately after brewing a batch. This act
will do more to prevent infection than anything. I have built and sold over
400 chillers now and I can say this unequivocally. When implimented, this
regiment should prevent any deposits from forming inside the copper inner
tube.
I have done everything in my power to get somebody interested in doing a
side by side comparison of the all copper and copper-vinyl counterflow
chillers. Nobody wants to take it on. I have bet a lot of money on my
prediction that there is not going to be a appreciable difference in the
performance even though one cost half of the other. I have turned a lot of
good copper into junk over the years! I would like to share the knowledge I
have gained from this effort with my fellow homebrewers. All you have to do
is write me.
Thanks Eric!
Ken Johnson
http://www.fearless1.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 23:22:10 -0500
From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu>
Subject: RAF & HBD
I'll be at the Real Ale Fest Thu - Sat (in Chicago at Goose Island,
Wrigleyville). I know this is really short notice, but is there any
way we can recognize each other? I'll try to remember to wear my Ann
Arbor Brewers Guild name tag with "HBD" on it. (Humorous note: the
first time I wore this tag was at the 1st Michigan Brewers Guild
SummerFest. The local cops informed us that "HBD" means "has been
drinking" in cop lingo. Oops. :-)
=Spencer
Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 21:29:03 -0500
From: "Joe Sheets" <jsheets at nc.rr.com>
Subject: Conical Fermentors
I recently purchased 2 plastic conical fermentors. They have lids but they
are not able to be "sealed". The lid does have a flange and fits snugly so
it will not fall off but I'm a little concerned about using a semi-open
fermentor. Does anybody have any experience w/these?
Joe
Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 01:42:31 -0500
From: gatessux <gatessux at tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Re: North Tampa area Beer
I agree, the Brew Shack is the place...
I just wanted to let you know that World of Beer (waters ave) is gone,
but the Brew Shack has grown to fill it's place, and is now selling some
really good beers.
There is also a World of Beer still in existence, from Tampa take the
Courtney Campbell Causeway towards Clearwater,
as soon as you cross the water, it should be about 1-2 miles on the left
(south) side, I believe it's across from Hooters.
Thanks.
Brian P.
Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 06:49:22 -0000
From: "Brew Dude" <brewdude_ at hotmail.com>
Subject: My Inline Oxygen/Aeration Set-up
Just wanted to share...
I like to brew big beers. After reading so much about the need to add oxygen
after chilling I decided that shaking the carboy just didn't get it. I saw a
DYI in the BYO Magazine about making a inline oxygen system. I used the same
principle but took it to the next level. I made my system out of stainless
for easy cleaning/sanitize and I wanted to be able to take it apart. A photo
of my system is here...
http://www.brewdude.beers.net/OXYGEN.jpg
The brew exits the counterflow and enters a 3/4 T. On the 'in' side I used a
1/2 hosebarb with a reducer to get to 3/4 and on the 'out' side I use a 3/4
hosebarb with clear tubing into the carboy. On the top side I used a 3/4
closed nipple with a cap. I picked up a 5 micron stainless air stone and
attached it to some 3/8 threaded tubing. I drilled a 3/8 hole into the cap
and stuck the tubing thru. This tube is TIG welded to the cap. The cap
screws on and the stainless stone is in perfect position for the flowing
brew. I used teflon pipe tape to help seal the fittings. I have a hose
clamped to the 3/8 tubing from the oxygen regulator. I think some type of
food grade silicon sealent would work if you couldn't find a welder.
I spent some time researching what others have done and hope this will help
someone else that is thinking about building the same thing. The stone was
purchased from a local Brew Supplier. I got all of my stainless fittings
from Plumbing Supply.
http://plumbingsupply.com
I checked around and these folks have got the best prices and quick service.
(I got the link from this message board - Thanks!) I got my parts within
three days after I put in the order.
Next project - buying pumps and building a movable stand for the system.
Now...back to lurking!
Brewdude
Cleveland, Ohio
about 6 inches east(according to my AAA map)of that Renner dude
Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 07:29:20 -0400
From: "Abby, Ellen and Alan" <elal at pei.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Irish Moss Question
So I think I am going along fine adding Irish moss to a secondary for
the first time, learning and doing...This is the second time I check the
books after adding...I boil up about 3/4 oz of irish moss make about 3
cups of clear strained sludge and dump it in the secondary...That must
be way too much I think...dump 'er out and put about one cup back
in...Boom in goes the English Pale Ale and I wait. Soon the lumps
appear and more and more and cloudy ale...I fear I have created jellied
ale...So I keg it after a week after seeing some clarification amongst
the floating lumps...and all I can taste is Boddingtons...friggin' salty
Boddingtons but the taste from the salt level seems to be a matter of
degree...two other facts make this not so bad...here in Alantic Canada
people - some people - people like me...eat commercially produced dried
seaweed called dulce as a snack and, growing up as a lad drinking in the
bars of Halifax, drinkers salted their draught...still - it is friggin'
salty.
Anyway, my question - do brewers such as Boddingtons use irsh moss as a
flavouring agent as well as a clarifier? I have often thought Tuboug
must overdo it with innisglass as all I can taste is fishiness.
Alan McLeod
Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 22:51:29 +1100
From: "Phil & Jill Yates" <yates at acenet.com.au>
Subject: Catching Up - A Disjointed Summary
I must apologise for my poor showing in here of late. Other factors of life
have recently gotten the better of me. For example, the New Zealanders have
been flexing their muscles in this part of the world in the flying game and
I have been left to defend Aussie ground almost single handed!
I've just about run out of sheep jokes.
And in any case, the New Zealanders didn't seem to find them funny at all.
But they do enjoy being told what great micro breweries they have.
When I have the time I will post the recipe for the Yates/Pivo pilsner, as
asked by Dave Lamotte.
I want to thank the former artist "Captn Salty" for the Budvar yeast he sent
me, it has kicked off well and will be used in my next pilsner.
The last time I was sent a yeast from the USA, I sent it on to several
Aussies but most complained that the containers leaked. Graham Sanders
simply misplaced his - ungrateful swine!!
The Budvar will also be available to Aussies, set up on a stall outside
Burradoo Estate. You can drive by and help yourself (Graham of course not
included).
Steve Alexander will be receiving a bottle of Yates/Pivo pilsner for his own
personal tasting. It's the least I owe him.
Scotty says I never invited him to the Burradoo brew day. Sorry Scott, I
thought you'd moved to North Queensland.
In conclusion, I'm saddened to see the language used by Eric Fouch on his
bad day of brewing. It wasn't pretty. But then, Eric is not a pretty man.
The pictures they sent me of a naked Eric riding his Hodaka Wombat testify
to that!!
Cheers
Phil
Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 12:50:55 -0000
From: "Joel King" <joel_d_king at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cleaning counter flow chillers
Y'all worry too much.
1. Flush with garden hose at ground water temperature.
2. Fill with 12.5 ppm iodophor.
3. Connect the ends. Throw in corner.
4. When needed again, brush off cobwebs.
5. Disconnect ends, top off at suction end with water if needed.
6. Shove suction end into wort (with stainless steel scub pad to filter
hops)with thumb over outlet end so back flow won't occur (too much).
7. Let iodophor / water in chiller begin suction. Drain to bucket until
wort has flush iodophor out, then to fermenter.
Cowboy Brewing in The Old Dominion, Joel
***************
Head Brewer and Bottle Washer, "Bleached Whales Brewery"
"Proudly dumping sanitizing waste down storm drains since 1987"
Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:10:14 -0500
From: fridgeguy at voyager.net
Subject: Chest freezer conversion
Greetings folks,
In HBD #3568, Steve Guernsey lamented the loss of his beloved IPA and
asked for alternatives to lumber for constructing a chest freezer
collar.
I've had great results using square vinyl downspout material. I miter
the corners by V-notching and then heating with a hair dryer to soften
the remaining side before bending the corner square. I cut rigid foam
insulation into strips and stuff the collar interior. I reinforced the
corner joints and the butt joint in the rear with square pieces of
vinyl sheet and stainless pop rivets.
Some means of reinforcement is needed where the shanks mount through
the collar. I've used plywood squares inserted into the collar but I
think a nicer method might be to cut short pieces of PVC pipe large
enough for the beer shank to fit through and insert these into the
collar before insulating. I'd suggest a can of expanding foam to both
insulate the area and to hold the pipe sections in place, but be sure
to assemble the pipe/collar/shank before foaming!
I relocated the freezer lid hinges by fabbing aluminum brackets that
screwed into the original locations on the freezer cabinet and drilled
new hinge mounting holes in the brackets with the freezer lid in place
on top of the collar.
The collar is held in place with a thin bead of white silicone caulk
between the upper edge of the freezer cabinet and bottom of the
collar. All joints in the collar are sealed with the same caulk. The
lid gasket seals nicely against the top of the collar and the
resulting installation looks clean.
The best part for new freezer owners is that no permanent
modifications to the freezer are needed. This makes warranty issues
easier to deal with and allows the freezer to be returned to food use
if desired.
Hope this helps!
- ----------------------------------------
Forrest Duddles - Fridgeguy in Kalamazoo
fridgeguy at voyager.net
- --
Pop3Now Personal, Manage 5 Email Accounts From 1 Secure Window
Sign Up Today! Visit http://www.pop3now.com/personal
Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:20:14 -0500
From: "Ahrendt, Eric (E.J.)" <eahrendt at visteon.com>
Subject: Bock Fest in Cinti
Has anyone (Bloatarians?) heard about a "Bock Fest" in Cincinnati this
weekend? Friends there couldn't give me many details and I struck out on a
Web search. I have heard that the Barrel House is going to be a center of
the event. Any info is appreciated. I am definitely headed that way
regardless. TIA.
Eric Ahrendt
Lighting Manufacturing Feasibility
Visteon Corporation
Sandusky (Ohio) Plant
Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 09:36:52 -0500
From: "Kensler, Paul" <Paul.Kensler at Cyberstar.com>
Subject: re: chest freezer conversion
Steve,
I am deeply sorry for your loss...
I have a chest freezer that I have converted using 2x10's, and I can throw
in the following observations and lessons learned:
1. I went with pine 2x10's because that gives me enough height to stand
a corny on top of the compressor, not just in the "deep" part of the
freezer. Not having access to a miter saw, I simply used a pair of 4" deck
screws through the front and back pieces, into the side pieces (first, I
drilled the holes through the front and back pieces and into the side
pieces). I believe someone with carpentry skill might call this a butt
joint?
2. At first I used the plain untreated wood, but eventually I painted
over it (see below). I then caulked all the seams with silicone caulk, and
ran a wavy bead along the top rim of the chest freezer wall. I set the wood
collar on top of the freezer, and sealed the interior and exterior seams
with silicone caulk. Note: when dry, the caulk will do a pretty good job of
gluing the collar to the freezer. You will be able to manhandle the collar
and use it to push or pull the freezer around... to a degree. But do not
pick up the freezer by the wood collar or it will come right off (or so I've
heard...).
3. Be sure to leave some airspace around the cornies, and in between
them and the walls. I used to jam-pack as many cornies as I could in my
freezer, but all I ended up doing was freezing the beers on the outside
while the beers on the inside were relatively warm... not enough
circulation, and the direct contact with the walls cooled the kegs too
well...
4. The insulation of the 2x10's has worked quite well... I used to
live in Texas (the freezer was indoors), and the freezer didn't run all that
often, it kept the beer cool, and the collar never felt cold. Remember,
there are lots of porous air spaces inside the wood (I'm assuming you used
pine like I did). Now that I'm living in Maryland and the freezer is in the
basement, the wood is just fine insulation.
5. The only problem with the wood is that it isn't moisture-proof. I
had a serious problem with condensation inside the freezer which ended up
being a serious mold problem inside the freezer. As a result of the cold
wet air on the inside and warm relatively dry air on the outside the 2x10's
warped along their axes. I have since solved this by spackling the knots
and holes, and painting over the entire outside surface with a few coats of
exterior-grade latex paint. Its waterproof now! I even painted inside the
drilled holes for the tap shanks and the CO2 line to keep all moisture out
of the wood.
6. I added a CO2 manifold (from HopTech, I think) on the inside and
recently a drip tray on the outside - Oh, but I love my new drip tray.
Plus, one of those "Starr" bottle openers, and a Williams temperature
controller (the model #2) made it complete.
That's everything that comes to mind - I hope some of this was of some use.
Your mileage may vary, but I'd be happy to answer any questions you've got.
Paul Kensler
Gaithersburg, MD
Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 10:3:2 -0500
From: "Gustave Rappold" <grappold at earthlink.net>
Subject: Aeration Foaming
To calm down your aeration, try an exterior hose clamp on the air
hose. If you don't have a clamp, try hold it with a pair of pliers until
you get a smooth aeration. I'm fourtunate (?) to have a family member who
requires O2, so I just hook up to an auxiliary tank, barely start the flow,
and swirl around the cane/stone in the wort. (Where'd all my O2 go?-Gus,
have you been brewing again?)
- --- Gustave Rappold
- --- grappold at earthlink.net
- --- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 10:48:19 -0500
From: "S. SNYDER" <SSNYDER at LBGHQ.com>
Subject: bad day/good day
Eric:
So you had a good day then.
I always say, a bad day brewing is better than a bad day doing......anything
else.
I'll take a bottle, these brews inevitably turn out well (it's the beer Gods
that control all this you know). Maybe not on style, but a good brew
nonetheless.
Scott Snyder
Trumbull, CT
ssnyder at lbghq.com
Rotten Rotti Brewing Company
"Humans aren't the only beings on earth, we just act like it."
Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 10:13:42 -0600
From: "R.M. Opalko" <opalko at ebicom.net>
Subject:
Hello all,
thanks for the CF cleaning advice. I assume that it is okay to leave bleach
water or iodophor water in the chiller for long periods of time, i.e. weeks?
Any thoughts on what shouldn't come into contact with copper tubing?
Cheers!
Bob
Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 11:11:03 -0500
From: "S. SNYDER" <SSNYDER at LBGHQ.com>
Subject: more hop questions
Greetings:
In a partial grain/extract brew,
Given that flavor and aroma hops are added between 1 and 15 minutes from the
cool the wort to 80F or below, aren't the aroma and flavor hops also
imparting bitterness during the cooling period? For the flavor hops, they
can be added 15 minutes from the end of the boil plus 15 minutes of cooling
or more, wouldn't that add bitterness? Or is all this accounted for in the
recipe?
I have only used a hop bag once in the boil, but if using them will bring me
closer to the end style (bitterness) of the beer, then I would surely use
them more often.
Many thanks,
Scott Snyder
Trumbull, CT 06611
ssnyder at lbghq.com
Rotten Rotti Brewing Company
Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 11:25:28 -0500
From: "Peed, John" <jpeed at elotouch.com>
Subject: Hop forms, max bitterness and Indianapolis
Pat did a great job of explaining which hop form does what best, but didn't
say why they bother to make pellets in the first place. For one thing,
they're more compact and thus easier to store. Mainly though, when you
grind hops and compress them into pellets, only a small fraction of the hop
material is exposed as surface area. Whole hops, on the other hand, have
almost all of their surface area exposed. The more surface area that's
exposed to possibly come in contact with air, the more quickly the hops will
degrade. Also, the more the aromatic oils can evaporate. Although they can
both be packed in nitrogen-flushed oxygen-barrier bags and stored cold,
there are limits to how long hops will stay fresh. The pellets stand a lot
better chance than the whole hops do. Leaf hops are probably best if you
can use them soon after purchase. Another consideration is, which form can
your brew setup deal with? I rack straight out the side of my boil pot, and
whole hops will clog the tube. Pellets can be whirlpooled into a mess that
pretty much stays in the center of the kettle, but leaf hops tend to drift
into the outlet flow. Many brewers use a metal false bottom in the boil
kettle and the leaf hops are actually advantageous to them because the leaf
hops form a nice filter bed.
On the maximum usage of hops, yes, there is a limit to the bitterness you
can extract. It's the old law of diminishing returns: The longer you boil,
the less incremental benefit you get. Sixty minutes is generally regarded
as sufficient boil time, although you'll get another couple of percent of
extraction if you boil for 90 minutes. After that, you really don't get a
lot more out of the hops.
As for the beer scene in Indianapolis, I was through there in 92, back when
good beer was pretty hard to find (at least down South). I recall that
Dusseldorfer (sp??) by Indianapolis Brewing Company was a really nice brew.
The brew may have changed and my tastes have changed since then, but I
really liked it at the time. It didn't travel well though.
John Peed
Knoxville, TN
Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 09:33:12 -0800
From: Brad Miller <millerb at targen.com>
Subject: Tubing
A good resource for tubing is coleparmer.com I'm a little
partial to the Platinum Cured Silicon Masterflex. It's a bit pricy
but well worth it.
Brad
Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 11:57:09 -0600
From: "Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies" <orders at paddockwood.com>
Subject: non-malted wheat
Chad asks about 3 different forms of non-malted wheat:
-'raw' wheat
-torrified wheat
-flaked wheat
These will all perform the same function in your beer, and by weight will
have the similar flavour effects. Any non-malted starch need to be
gelatinized before it can be converted in the mash. Fortunately wheat
gelatinizes easily at low mash temperatures, so can usually be added
directly to the mash. If a recipe calls for 'raw' wheat, any of the unmalted
wheat forms can be used interchangeably.
Raw wheat can be wheat 'berries' or flour. Berries can be milled and cooked
first with a little water, to ensure gelatinization of the starch prior to
mashing. Flour can be added directly to the mash where it will gelatinize
nicely with no extra effort.
Torrified wheat is slightly puffed wheat. It has been heated, with a hot air
'gun' and is pre-gelatinized and easier to store, measure and use than
flaked, flour, or berries. It is our preferred form of non-malted wheat.
Add it directly to the mash after milling.
Flaked wheat has been rolled and the heat created has gelatinized the
starch. It is bulkier than torrified wheat, and closer to flour in storage
qualities. It performs well, add it directly to the mash.
With any large quantity of wheat, consider adding something like rice hulls
to help ensure an easy lauter. The lack of a husk can cause stuck sparges.
At 55% wheat I would suggest a 10% rice hull addition.
Suggested mash schedule for wheat and pils malt grist:
40C (104F) 15 minutes
50C (122F) 30 minutes
60C (140F) 30 minutes
70C (158F) 30 minutes
A two stage rest of 55C (131F) and 70C (158F) is less effective, but
possible. Spend about 15 minutes at 131F.
I hope this was useful.
cheers,
Stephen Ross -- "Vitae sine cerevisiae sugant."
Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies, Saskatoon, SK
orders at paddockwood.com www.paddockwood.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 13:30:28 -0500
From: "Charles R. Stewart" <Charles at TheStewarts.com>
Subject: Chillin',Burnin', and Keggin'
Maybe one of these days, I'll play with building a counterflow chiller, but
for right now, my immersion chiller works quite well. One difference in
mine, is its shape. Instead of building it in a cylinder, I pretty much
kept the shape of the coil straight out of the box, and just pulled it out a
little, then braced it. The resulting shape is kind of like >< as viewed
from the side. I have pictures of it on my web site
http://charles.thestewarts.com. It does so well, that I can actually see
convection currents if I place it a little off center. Seems to chill my 12
gallon batches in 20 minutes or so with very little work.
I posted a query recently about getting more power from my burner, and the
most useful suggestion was to get a higher pressure regulator. Anyone have
a good inexpensive source for one of these?
And finally, I've decided to donate $2 to the server fund for each one of my
three gallon kegs (ball and pin lock) sold on eBay to HBD members. I'd like
to contribute something back to this wonderful source of information /
disinformation / non-information. Make sure to let me know when you pay and
I'll PayPal the money to the server fund ASAP.
Thanks,
Chip Stewart
Charles at TheStewarts.com
Gaithersburg, Maryland, USA
http://Charles.TheStewarts.com
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Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 13:35:00 -0500
From: JGORMAN at steelcase.com
Subject: Bunch O Stuff
I have a load of questions. Who has used One Step dual purpose
cleaner/sanitizer? What is the exposure time and how effective is it?
On several of my last batches of beer I get ring around the collar. I know
that this could be an infection but there are no flavor flaws. I once read
that it could be caused by an insufficient hot or cold break. I boil for a
minimum of 60 minutes and cool in about 10. I was wondering if it could be
caused by priming with DME? I only boil it for a few minutes. I also get a
smearing of something on the sides of the bottle.
Does anyone know where I can get a few bottles of the Sam Adam's Millennium
Brew?
Has anyone ever used the White Labs High Gravity yeast? Is this a bona fide
beer yeast for just a jacked up liquid champagne strain?
Can someone recommend a CP bottle filler? I am somewhat familiar with Phil's.
Are there others out there that are single hand/triple valve action and easy
to use?
Jason Gorman
River Dog Brewery
GR MI
Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 17:18:17 -0500
From: "Eric R. Lande" <landeservices at juno.com>
Subject: Strike temp
Greetings to the collective. After not having brewed since the Big Brew
last May I did two batches this past weekend. Although I have been
brewing for several years, I am relatively new at all grain (3-4 previous
batches) and am infusion mashing in a chest type picnic cooler. Well I
doughed in and brought up the water volume to 1 qt/lb, but the temp
leveled around 142F. I infused some more boiling water and could not get
the temp up to my 148F target. (I even resorted to the Charlie P. book)
Finally I just added a large qty of boiling water and made a rather thin
mash which did get the temp up. I had the same problem on Sunday and
resorted to winging it by pulling some of the mash out and bringing it to
a boil, which did help.
My question for the collective is what is the best way to calculate
strike temps and addition volumes/temps to be able to hit strike temp
and/or step temp? Also, I've seen the terms "Malt Heat Cap", "Thermal
Mass" and "Mash Tun Thermal" related to this subject. Can anyone tell me
what they are and, if I need them, how to calculate them? Thanks in
advance.
Eric Lande
Doylestown, PA
Brewery still not named
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Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 18:12:25 -0500
From: "CozyE" <cozye at bellsouth.net>
Subject: Burner modification, oxygen, molasses
Hello all fellow brewers. It's been a while since I have posted, since then
I have made dozens of great All Grain brews!
Axle writes about aeration:
>So if anyone would be kind enough to help, what I'm trying to figure out is
>what to do about the foaming and once that is solved, how long should I
>aerate the wort ?
I've never tried using an aquarium pump, but I can tell you that with a
little shopping on ebay you could get an oxygen regulator cheap. I have been
using pure oxygen for my latest beers and it works wonderful. Dump the yeast
in, hit it with oxygen until it foams up in 10 seconds, wait about 5
minutes, and hit it again. A 5lb oxygen tank will last you a life time.
CAUTION! a blow off tube is a must for this method (and I use 6.5 Gal
carboys)
A couple questions I have for the collective:
Any one ever modified a Cajun Cooker to put out more heat or save propane? I
have a 130k BTU cooker with the typical cast iron (non jet) style burner.
The regulator says that it is 15PSI. I have heard that I might possibly be
able to drill out the orifice (I don't know which one) and get a little more
BTU's out of it. A typical 11 Gallon all grain batch cost me about 10lbs of
propane, and a lot longer heating time that some of my club members 200k
burners. The thing I like about mine is that it sits a good couple feet off
of the ground so it makes filling carboys very easy.
Anyone ever used sorghum in a stout? I just brewed a stout this weekend and
pitched in 1.5 lbs of sorghum at the last 10 minutes of boil. I drained some
wort off first to dilute it in a small pot, then pitched it back in (so that
the heavy stuff wouldn't just fall to the bottom and scorch). I guess I will
find out in a couple of weeks how it taste but thought that I might get an
idea from some of you who have tried it. I used a 1056 yeast in this batch.
First taste of the wort did not reveal anything obvious but I hope the taste
will be subtle and nice when it ferments out.
Keep on keeping on,
Eric Murray
cozye at bellsouth.net
Louisville, KY
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Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 15:19:52 -0800
From: "Steven M. Claussen" <sclaussen at mail.kindercare.com>
Subject: conicentrical reply
I said regarding the advantages of a conicentrical (CC) fermentor:
>In addition to making yeast harvesting WAY easier,
>efficient and less messy, I can think of at least the
>following advantages:
To which Stephen Alexander responded:
"Efficient but you'll never re-pitch more than half the yeast. Less
messy but you have to clean up the exposed valve etc on a full fermenter
afterward. Harvest is way easier but pointless since most could only
afford one such fermenter. Just where are you going to pitch that
freshly harvested yeast anyway ?"
To which I now reply:
I have not found a need to re-pitch more than half the yeast. I usually
harvest about 500 ml of thick yeast paste, which gives me lag times of
about 3 hours upon repitching. As far as cleaning the exposed valve, I
agree that it must be done - but any method of harvesting will involve
cleaning. Before I had a CC, harvesting was such a PITA that I only did
it a few times a year (usually when I needed alot of yeast to re-pitch
into a high gravity beer). Now, I ALWAYS harvest, and the entire
process (set up, sanitization of the valve, harvesting and clean up)
takes less than 30 minutes. As far as where I put the freshly harvested
yeast: it goes in a 2000 ml flask in the fridge until I re-pitch it a
week or two later.
I said:
>1) trub removal with the flick of a valve
To which Stephen Alexander responded:
"And constant attention looking for end-of-trub."
To which I now reply: I haven't lost sleep over the end-of-trub.
I said:
>5) side port makes sediment free transfers easy
To which Stephen Alexander responded:
"The sideport design brings up questions of either how clean is the
resulting beer vs how much good beer is left behind. Always a tradeoff
that requires adjustment and the levels are behind opaque stainless."
To which I now reply:
I agree that this is an issue. However, I was able to resolve it to my
standards with a little experience. I usually lose between a pint to a
quart of clear beer upon transfer, which is comparable to what I have
left behind using other types of fermentors.
Stephen Alexander said:
"Corny's would have the same advantages at 1/10th the cost."
To which I now reply:
Been there, done that. The CC is ten times better as a fermentor, so
it's a wash. ; -)
Stephen Alexander said:
"Assuming CCs still run $400 - would you really tie up your only
fermenter for many weeks w/ 3.5 gallons of barleywine ? Have you never
had three brews bubbling at once?"
To which I now reply:
Actually, it ran around $600. I have spent more on homebrew equipment
with less satisfaction returned. I find that I am able to brew the
legal limit of homebrew with a single 12.2 gallon fermentor and very
little effort. I do, however, look back with fondness/horror on the
days when I was obsessed enough to have three beers brewing
contemporaneously. I am now happy to simply have three beers on tap at
all times.
Stephen Alexander said:
"The conical bottom slope should permit trub and flocculent yeast
removal cleanly, given constant attention. The saving of the transfer
labor and sanitizing steps is offset somewhat by the infection potential
around the valve and the necessity to clean this (w/ a full fermenter
attached) after removing trub or yeast."
To which I now reply:
I agree that there is an infection potential. I scrub the valve with
alcohol and flame it before harvesting. I blast the inside of the valve
with a jet of water post harvesting, then spritz it with a liberal
amount of iodophor from a spray bottle. As I said, the whole process
takes about 30 min. So far, so good, as I have repitched multiple times
without a (detectable level) of infection.
Stephen Alexander said:
"It's still just a racking cane alternative to me."
To which I now reply:
Like a Porsche is just an alternative to a Yugo. I think the point of
my original post remains valid: if one does not have practical
experience with a piece of equipment, one should limit one's criticism
of said equipment. It reminds me a bit of my kids - they are still too
young to reach the gas pedal, but they feel a constant need to tell me
how to drive!
-Steve Claussen in PDX
- --
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Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 17:25:30 -0600
From: Gene Collins <GCollins at cranecarrier.com>
Subject: Carbon Dioxide
Someone recently asked the question as to whether or not there was a food
grade carbon dioxide. I must have been blurred by the amount of purely
scientific data that I was viewing, but I missed anyone responding to it, if
in fact they did. I too would like to know.
Gene Collins
Regional Service Manager
Crane Carrier Company
918-832-7336
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Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 18:40:59 EST
From: BrwyFoam at aol.com
Subject: CC fermenters
Hi! I have been told that this forum has been pursuing a CC fermenter
thread, and I could not resist adding my $.02 worth.
During last few months I have renewed the study on fermentation systems
that I reported in ABT. A fundamental addition to the current study is a
Beer, Beer, and More Beer CC unit. Let me state at the outset that I have
had zero financial transactions with BB&MB. They did give me one of their
units (the one that was on display in Oct. at the NCHB festival held in
Napa). Actually I fell in love with the unit they had on display at the
Southern California Festival held earlier in Temecula, and they decided to
let me have one knowing full well it would be frequently used!
I am giving the keynote talk at the Bluebonnet at the end of March, and in
the technical session on that Saturday I will present the results of the
new study. I will also get the talk on my (long neglected!) web page. I
worked hard to make sure that the results were reproducible by those who
actually use the particular systems discussed. I have also entered brews
in a number of large competitions in "fernem lands" to get feedback from
others, as well as attempting to get a handle on a wide range of issues
related to flavor stability that are specific to homebrew.
For the record this report is highly favorable to fermenters configured
along
the lines of the BBMB models. As you might imagine my version is going to be
with me for the rest of my life!
I hope this finds everyone well.
Cheers,
George Fix
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Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 15:43:54 -0800 (PST)
From: You Bastards <dude_kennysdead at yahoo.com>
Subject: Plastic Carboys & Attenuation Blues
Hello all,
I was staring at these empty plastic 5gal jugs that
are lying around my garage, when inspiration struck!
Why not use these as primary fermenters? I guess I'm
probably brewing too much, if all 4 of my glass
carboys are in use, but the situation HAS presented
itself.
Anyone tried doing something this crazy? I assume
that I just find a stopper to fit the neck, and do the
standard airlock thing. Just figured I'd see if
anyone had any caveats before I tried it. Since I
have a source for these new plastic jugs, I can pretty
much use them once and replace them.
Thanks to the folks who either reside in, or have
visited the Raleigh-Durham, NC area for the great tips
on microbrew in the area. I was not disappointed in
the recommendations.
Regarding the "under-attenuation blues", I am a member
of this club. Every batch of all-grain that I have
attempted so far has wound up a little to a lot
(lately) on the high side (terminal gravity). I am
going to calibrate my thermometers, to ensure my mash
temp is what I think it is. I use the O2 tank & ss
stone method of aeration, with good sized starters, so
I know it's not the yeast...
My other big problem seems to be my mash efficiency.
I am using a single-step infusion mash, utilizing a
10gal rubbermaid cooler with a stainless steel false
bottom. So far, according to Promash, my best
efficiency is < 68%. Assuming my mash temperatures
are NOT way off of what they should be, would
performing a mash-out, or a step mash increase the
efficiency much?
I'm a little confused regarding mash temps due to some
recent "mash-out" arguments, the higher the mash temp,
the lower the fermentables, correct? My last batch
was mashed at 153 for 60 mins, for a OG of 1074, and a
apparent (2 weeks have passed) SG of 1040, the highest
yet. This flies in the face of what I thought should
be, as it is the highest TG of any brew, yet it was
mashed at the lowest temp. (typical mashes in the
past were performed at 156) Any thoughts?
Thanks for all the great posts and advice, I know a
WHOLE lot more than when I started this adventure (not
quite two months ago)
brent
electric pig brewery
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Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 11:15:08 +1100 (EST)
From: Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative <Scott.Morgan at Sun.COM>
Subject: steinbeer
G'day there,
I usually use river pebbles, probably granite for steinbeer.
This is a fun beer to make to say the least. the stones are added
to the in-laws combustion heater in winter and are
red hot when pulled.
The stones always bring the wort to the boil and last year whilst
on route to the waort one exploded, which created a stir to say the
least.
never thought that I risked loosing an eye whilst brewing...and
i did not even have "the good scissors" nearby!
For the full toffee flavour to come thru i think bitterness should be
low for the beer.
Scotty
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Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 14:42:04 +1100
From: "Peter gunczy" <pcgunczy at primus.com.au>
Subject: still on the FWH trail!
Greetings Beerlings
In my quest to succeed in FWH is the temperature of the sparged wort which
runs to the kettle important ? My hops are soaking in wort which is approx.
55deg C(130 F) for 45-60 mins.
any suggestions
Peter
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Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 23:09:28 -0500
From: Bob Sheck <bsheck at skantech.net>
Subject: More on Dry Hopping
It seems to me that if you load up a pressure
cooker with hops and either H2O or Wort for
liquid, cook for awhile, then dump it into the
fermenter you should be able to get a good
hoppy extract?
Bob Sheck
bsheck, me-sheck, abednigo! Greenville, North Carolina
email:bsheck at skantech.net or see us at:
http://www.skantech.net/bsheck/
(252)830-1833
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Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 23:34:21 -0500
From: Kevin White <kwhite at bcpl.net>
Subject: Oxygenating Wort and Pitching Yeast
Oh Great Brewing Gurus, I Humbly Beseech Thee
Grant Me Your Wisdom...
Today I brewed a batch of ale, pitched the yeast, and then decided to give
the carboy a good rousing. Now, I'm not seeing fermentation activity by the
time I usually do, so I'm wondering: Have I done the yeast a favor or a
disservice? Should I have given it the rousing *before* pitching the yeast?
Should I repitch?
Kevin White
Columbia, MD
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