HOMEBREW Digest #3569 Thu 01 March 2001

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  counterflow chillers (Ken & Bennett Johnson)
  RAF & HBD (Spencer W Thomas)
  Conical Fermentors ("Joe Sheets")
  Re: North Tampa area Beer (gatessux)
  My Inline Oxygen/Aeration Set-up ("Brew Dude")
  Irish Moss Question ("Abby, Ellen and Alan")
  Catching Up - A Disjointed Summary ("Phil & Jill Yates")
  Re:  Cleaning counter flow chillers ("Joel King")
  Chest freezer conversion (fridgeguy)
  Bock Fest in Cinti (E.J.)" <eahrendt at visteon.com>
  re: chest freezer conversion ("Kensler, Paul")
  Aeration Foaming ("Gustave Rappold")
  bad day/good day ("S. SNYDER")
   ("R.M. Opalko")
  more hop questions ("S. SNYDER")
  Hop forms, max bitterness and Indianapolis ("Peed, John")
  Tubing (Brad Miller)
  non-malted wheat ("Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies")
  Chillin',Burnin', and Keggin' ("Charles R. Stewart")
  Bunch O Stuff (JGORMAN)
  Strike temp ("Eric R. Lande")
  Burner modification, oxygen, molasses ("CozyE")
  conicentrical reply ("Steven M. Claussen")
  Carbon Dioxide (Gene Collins)
  CC fermenters (BrwyFoam)
  Plastic Carboys & Attenuation Blues (You Bastards)
  steinbeer (Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative)
  still on the FWH trail! ("Peter gunczy")
  More on Dry Hopping (Bob Sheck)
  Oxygenating Wort and Pitching Yeast (Kevin White)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 20:08:02 -0800 From: Ken & Bennett Johnson <fearless1 at abac.com> Subject: counterflow chillers Hello All, I have long been a voyeur of this fine publication. I never wanted to seem like I was horning in to try to advertise. I have seen the discussion about counterflow chillers and finally decided to jump in. I learned a long time ago when I owned an engine parts warehouse that you can't change anybody's religion. If somebody likes Fel Pro gaskets, you can't make him buy Victor. I know there is an immersion and a counterflow camp out there. In the counterflow camp, there is an all copper and a copper-vinyl camp. One fella says he uses boiling wort moving through his system to sanitize. I am not going to say whether he is right or wrong. I can say that I have used counterflow chillers for years. All I have done is use idophor flowing through for 5 minutes and start chillin'. The most important part is to flush the system thoroughly, immediately after brewing a batch. This act will do more to prevent infection than anything. I have built and sold over 400 chillers now and I can say this unequivocally. When implimented, this regiment should prevent any deposits from forming inside the copper inner tube. I have done everything in my power to get somebody interested in doing a side by side comparison of the all copper and copper-vinyl counterflow chillers. Nobody wants to take it on. I have bet a lot of money on my prediction that there is not going to be a appreciable difference in the performance even though one cost half of the other. I have turned a lot of good copper into junk over the years! I would like to share the knowledge I have gained from this effort with my fellow homebrewers. All you have to do is write me. Thanks Eric! Ken Johnson http://www.fearless1.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 23:22:10 -0500 From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu> Subject: RAF & HBD I'll be at the Real Ale Fest Thu - Sat (in Chicago at Goose Island, Wrigleyville). I know this is really short notice, but is there any way we can recognize each other? I'll try to remember to wear my Ann Arbor Brewers Guild name tag with "HBD" on it. (Humorous note: the first time I wore this tag was at the 1st Michigan Brewers Guild SummerFest. The local cops informed us that "HBD" means "has been drinking" in cop lingo. Oops. :-) =Spencer Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 21:29:03 -0500 From: "Joe Sheets" <jsheets at nc.rr.com> Subject: Conical Fermentors I recently purchased 2 plastic conical fermentors. They have lids but they are not able to be "sealed". The lid does have a flange and fits snugly so it will not fall off but I'm a little concerned about using a semi-open fermentor. Does anybody have any experience w/these? Joe Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 01:42:31 -0500 From: gatessux <gatessux at tampabay.rr.com> Subject: Re: North Tampa area Beer I agree, the Brew Shack is the place... I just wanted to let you know that World of Beer (waters ave) is gone, but the Brew Shack has grown to fill it's place, and is now selling some really good beers. There is also a World of Beer still in existence, from Tampa take the Courtney Campbell Causeway towards Clearwater, as soon as you cross the water, it should be about 1-2 miles on the left (south) side, I believe it's across from Hooters. Thanks. Brian P. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 06:49:22 -0000 From: "Brew Dude" <brewdude_ at hotmail.com> Subject: My Inline Oxygen/Aeration Set-up Just wanted to share... I like to brew big beers. After reading so much about the need to add oxygen after chilling I decided that shaking the carboy just didn't get it. I saw a DYI in the BYO Magazine about making a inline oxygen system. I used the same principle but took it to the next level. I made my system out of stainless for easy cleaning/sanitize and I wanted to be able to take it apart. A photo of my system is here... http://www.brewdude.beers.net/OXYGEN.jpg The brew exits the counterflow and enters a 3/4 T. On the 'in' side I used a 1/2 hosebarb with a reducer to get to 3/4 and on the 'out' side I use a 3/4 hosebarb with clear tubing into the carboy. On the top side I used a 3/4 closed nipple with a cap. I picked up a 5 micron stainless air stone and attached it to some 3/8 threaded tubing. I drilled a 3/8 hole into the cap and stuck the tubing thru. This tube is TIG welded to the cap. The cap screws on and the stainless stone is in perfect position for the flowing brew. I used teflon pipe tape to help seal the fittings. I have a hose clamped to the 3/8 tubing from the oxygen regulator. I think some type of food grade silicon sealent would work if you couldn't find a welder. I spent some time researching what others have done and hope this will help someone else that is thinking about building the same thing. The stone was purchased from a local Brew Supplier. I got all of my stainless fittings from Plumbing Supply. http://plumbingsupply.com I checked around and these folks have got the best prices and quick service. (I got the link from this message board - Thanks!) I got my parts within three days after I put in the order. Next project - buying pumps and building a movable stand for the system. Now...back to lurking! Brewdude Cleveland, Ohio about 6 inches east(according to my AAA map)of that Renner dude Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 07:29:20 -0400 From: "Abby, Ellen and Alan" <elal at pei.sympatico.ca> Subject: Irish Moss Question So I think I am going along fine adding Irish moss to a secondary for the first time, learning and doing...This is the second time I check the books after adding...I boil up about 3/4 oz of irish moss make about 3 cups of clear strained sludge and dump it in the secondary...That must be way too much I think...dump 'er out and put about one cup back in...Boom in goes the English Pale Ale and I wait. Soon the lumps appear and more and more and cloudy ale...I fear I have created jellied ale...So I keg it after a week after seeing some clarification amongst the floating lumps...and all I can taste is Boddingtons...friggin' salty Boddingtons but the taste from the salt level seems to be a matter of degree...two other facts make this not so bad...here in Alantic Canada people - some people - people like me...eat commercially produced dried seaweed called dulce as a snack and, growing up as a lad drinking in the bars of Halifax, drinkers salted their draught...still - it is friggin' salty. Anyway, my question - do brewers such as Boddingtons use irsh moss as a flavouring agent as well as a clarifier? I have often thought Tuboug must overdo it with innisglass as all I can taste is fishiness. Alan McLeod Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 22:51:29 +1100 From: "Phil & Jill Yates" <yates at acenet.com.au> Subject: Catching Up - A Disjointed Summary I must apologise for my poor showing in here of late. Other factors of life have recently gotten the better of me. For example, the New Zealanders have been flexing their muscles in this part of the world in the flying game and I have been left to defend Aussie ground almost single handed! I've just about run out of sheep jokes. And in any case, the New Zealanders didn't seem to find them funny at all. But they do enjoy being told what great micro breweries they have. When I have the time I will post the recipe for the Yates/Pivo pilsner, as asked by Dave Lamotte. I want to thank the former artist "Captn Salty" for the Budvar yeast he sent me, it has kicked off well and will be used in my next pilsner. The last time I was sent a yeast from the USA, I sent it on to several Aussies but most complained that the containers leaked. Graham Sanders simply misplaced his - ungrateful swine!! The Budvar will also be available to Aussies, set up on a stall outside Burradoo Estate. You can drive by and help yourself (Graham of course not included). Steve Alexander will be receiving a bottle of Yates/Pivo pilsner for his own personal tasting. It's the least I owe him. Scotty says I never invited him to the Burradoo brew day. Sorry Scott, I thought you'd moved to North Queensland. In conclusion, I'm saddened to see the language used by Eric Fouch on his bad day of brewing. It wasn't pretty. But then, Eric is not a pretty man. The pictures they sent me of a naked Eric riding his Hodaka Wombat testify to that!! Cheers Phil Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 12:50:55 -0000 From: "Joel King" <joel_d_king at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Cleaning counter flow chillers Y'all worry too much. 1. Flush with garden hose at ground water temperature. 2. Fill with 12.5 ppm iodophor. 3. Connect the ends. Throw in corner. 4. When needed again, brush off cobwebs. 5. Disconnect ends, top off at suction end with water if needed. 6. Shove suction end into wort (with stainless steel scub pad to filter hops)with thumb over outlet end so back flow won't occur (too much). 7. Let iodophor / water in chiller begin suction. Drain to bucket until wort has flush iodophor out, then to fermenter. Cowboy Brewing in The Old Dominion, Joel *************** Head Brewer and Bottle Washer, "Bleached Whales Brewery" "Proudly dumping sanitizing waste down storm drains since 1987" Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:10:14 -0500 From: fridgeguy at voyager.net Subject: Chest freezer conversion Greetings folks, In HBD #3568, Steve Guernsey lamented the loss of his beloved IPA and asked for alternatives to lumber for constructing a chest freezer collar. I've had great results using square vinyl downspout material. I miter the corners by V-notching and then heating with a hair dryer to soften the remaining side before bending the corner square. I cut rigid foam insulation into strips and stuff the collar interior. I reinforced the corner joints and the butt joint in the rear with square pieces of vinyl sheet and stainless pop rivets. Some means of reinforcement is needed where the shanks mount through the collar. I've used plywood squares inserted into the collar but I think a nicer method might be to cut short pieces of PVC pipe large enough for the beer shank to fit through and insert these into the collar before insulating. I'd suggest a can of expanding foam to both insulate the area and to hold the pipe sections in place, but be sure to assemble the pipe/collar/shank before foaming! I relocated the freezer lid hinges by fabbing aluminum brackets that screwed into the original locations on the freezer cabinet and drilled new hinge mounting holes in the brackets with the freezer lid in place on top of the collar. The collar is held in place with a thin bead of white silicone caulk between the upper edge of the freezer cabinet and bottom of the collar. All joints in the collar are sealed with the same caulk. The lid gasket seals nicely against the top of the collar and the resulting installation looks clean. The best part for new freezer owners is that no permanent modifications to the freezer are needed. This makes warranty issues easier to deal with and allows the freezer to be returned to food use if desired. Hope this helps! - ---------------------------------------- Forrest Duddles - Fridgeguy in Kalamazoo fridgeguy at voyager.net - -- Pop3Now Personal, Manage 5 Email Accounts From 1 Secure Window Sign Up Today! Visit http://www.pop3now.com/personal Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:20:14 -0500 From: "Ahrendt, Eric (E.J.)" <eahrendt at visteon.com> Subject: Bock Fest in Cinti Has anyone (Bloatarians?) heard about a "Bock Fest" in Cincinnati this weekend? Friends there couldn't give me many details and I struck out on a Web search. I have heard that the Barrel House is going to be a center of the event. Any info is appreciated. I am definitely headed that way regardless. TIA. Eric Ahrendt Lighting Manufacturing Feasibility Visteon Corporation Sandusky (Ohio) Plant Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 09:36:52 -0500 From: "Kensler, Paul" <Paul.Kensler at Cyberstar.com> Subject: re: chest freezer conversion Steve, I am deeply sorry for your loss... I have a chest freezer that I have converted using 2x10's, and I can throw in the following observations and lessons learned: 1. I went with pine 2x10's because that gives me enough height to stand a corny on top of the compressor, not just in the "deep" part of the freezer. Not having access to a miter saw, I simply used a pair of 4" deck screws through the front and back pieces, into the side pieces (first, I drilled the holes through the front and back pieces and into the side pieces). I believe someone with carpentry skill might call this a butt joint? 2. At first I used the plain untreated wood, but eventually I painted over it (see below). I then caulked all the seams with silicone caulk, and ran a wavy bead along the top rim of the chest freezer wall. I set the wood collar on top of the freezer, and sealed the interior and exterior seams with silicone caulk. Note: when dry, the caulk will do a pretty good job of gluing the collar to the freezer. You will be able to manhandle the collar and use it to push or pull the freezer around... to a degree. But do not pick up the freezer by the wood collar or it will come right off (or so I've heard...). 3. Be sure to leave some airspace around the cornies, and in between them and the walls. I used to jam-pack as many cornies as I could in my freezer, but all I ended up doing was freezing the beers on the outside while the beers on the inside were relatively warm... not enough circulation, and the direct contact with the walls cooled the kegs too well... 4. The insulation of the 2x10's has worked quite well... I used to live in Texas (the freezer was indoors), and the freezer didn't run all that often, it kept the beer cool, and the collar never felt cold. Remember, there are lots of porous air spaces inside the wood (I'm assuming you used pine like I did). Now that I'm living in Maryland and the freezer is in the basement, the wood is just fine insulation. 5. The only problem with the wood is that it isn't moisture-proof. I had a serious problem with condensation inside the freezer which ended up being a serious mold problem inside the freezer. As a result of the cold wet air on the inside and warm relatively dry air on the outside the 2x10's warped along their axes. I have since solved this by spackling the knots and holes, and painting over the entire outside surface with a few coats of exterior-grade latex paint. Its waterproof now! I even painted inside the drilled holes for the tap shanks and the CO2 line to keep all moisture out of the wood. 6. I added a CO2 manifold (from HopTech, I think) on the inside and recently a drip tray on the outside - Oh, but I love my new drip tray. Plus, one of those "Starr" bottle openers, and a Williams temperature controller (the model #2) made it complete. That's everything that comes to mind - I hope some of this was of some use. Your mileage may vary, but I'd be happy to answer any questions you've got. Paul Kensler Gaithersburg, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 10:3:2 -0500 From: "Gustave Rappold" <grappold at earthlink.net> Subject: Aeration Foaming To calm down your aeration, try an exterior hose clamp on the air hose. If you don't have a clamp, try hold it with a pair of pliers until you get a smooth aeration. I'm fourtunate (?) to have a family member who requires O2, so I just hook up to an auxiliary tank, barely start the flow, and swirl around the cane/stone in the wort. (Where'd all my O2 go?-Gus, have you been brewing again?) - --- Gustave Rappold - --- grappold at earthlink.net - --- EarthLink: It's your Internet. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 10:48:19 -0500 From: "S. SNYDER" <SSNYDER at LBGHQ.com> Subject: bad day/good day Eric: So you had a good day then. I always say, a bad day brewing is better than a bad day doing......anything else. I'll take a bottle, these brews inevitably turn out well (it's the beer Gods that control all this you know). Maybe not on style, but a good brew nonetheless. Scott Snyder Trumbull, CT ssnyder at lbghq.com Rotten Rotti Brewing Company "Humans aren't the only beings on earth, we just act like it." Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 10:13:42 -0600 From: "R.M. Opalko" <opalko at ebicom.net> Subject: Hello all, thanks for the CF cleaning advice. I assume that it is okay to leave bleach water or iodophor water in the chiller for long periods of time, i.e. weeks? Any thoughts on what shouldn't come into contact with copper tubing? Cheers! Bob Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 11:11:03 -0500 From: "S. SNYDER" <SSNYDER at LBGHQ.com> Subject: more hop questions Greetings: In a partial grain/extract brew, Given that flavor and aroma hops are added between 1 and 15 minutes from the cool the wort to 80F or below, aren't the aroma and flavor hops also imparting bitterness during the cooling period? For the flavor hops, they can be added 15 minutes from the end of the boil plus 15 minutes of cooling or more, wouldn't that add bitterness? Or is all this accounted for in the recipe? I have only used a hop bag once in the boil, but if using them will bring me closer to the end style (bitterness) of the beer, then I would surely use them more often. Many thanks, Scott Snyder Trumbull, CT 06611 ssnyder at lbghq.com Rotten Rotti Brewing Company Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 11:25:28 -0500 From: "Peed, John" <jpeed at elotouch.com> Subject: Hop forms, max bitterness and Indianapolis Pat did a great job of explaining which hop form does what best, but didn't say why they bother to make pellets in the first place. For one thing, they're more compact and thus easier to store. Mainly though, when you grind hops and compress them into pellets, only a small fraction of the hop material is exposed as surface area. Whole hops, on the other hand, have almost all of their surface area exposed. The more surface area that's exposed to possibly come in contact with air, the more quickly the hops will degrade. Also, the more the aromatic oils can evaporate. Although they can both be packed in nitrogen-flushed oxygen-barrier bags and stored cold, there are limits to how long hops will stay fresh. The pellets stand a lot better chance than the whole hops do. Leaf hops are probably best if you can use them soon after purchase. Another consideration is, which form can your brew setup deal with? I rack straight out the side of my boil pot, and whole hops will clog the tube. Pellets can be whirlpooled into a mess that pretty much stays in the center of the kettle, but leaf hops tend to drift into the outlet flow. Many brewers use a metal false bottom in the boil kettle and the leaf hops are actually advantageous to them because the leaf hops form a nice filter bed. On the maximum usage of hops, yes, there is a limit to the bitterness you can extract. It's the old law of diminishing returns: The longer you boil, the less incremental benefit you get. Sixty minutes is generally regarded as sufficient boil time, although you'll get another couple of percent of extraction if you boil for 90 minutes. After that, you really don't get a lot more out of the hops. As for the beer scene in Indianapolis, I was through there in 92, back when good beer was pretty hard to find (at least down South). I recall that Dusseldorfer (sp??) by Indianapolis Brewing Company was a really nice brew. The brew may have changed and my tastes have changed since then, but I really liked it at the time. It didn't travel well though. John Peed Knoxville, TN Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 09:33:12 -0800 From: Brad Miller <millerb at targen.com> Subject: Tubing A good resource for tubing is coleparmer.com I'm a little partial to the Platinum Cured Silicon Masterflex. It's a bit pricy but well worth it. Brad Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 11:57:09 -0600 From: "Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies" <orders at paddockwood.com> Subject: non-malted wheat Chad asks about 3 different forms of non-malted wheat: -'raw' wheat -torrified wheat -flaked wheat These will all perform the same function in your beer, and by weight will have the similar flavour effects. Any non-malted starch need to be gelatinized before it can be converted in the mash. Fortunately wheat gelatinizes easily at low mash temperatures, so can usually be added directly to the mash. If a recipe calls for 'raw' wheat, any of the unmalted wheat forms can be used interchangeably. Raw wheat can be wheat 'berries' or flour. Berries can be milled and cooked first with a little water, to ensure gelatinization of the starch prior to mashing. Flour can be added directly to the mash where it will gelatinize nicely with no extra effort. Torrified wheat is slightly puffed wheat. It has been heated, with a hot air 'gun' and is pre-gelatinized and easier to store, measure and use than flaked, flour, or berries. It is our preferred form of non-malted wheat. Add it directly to the mash after milling. Flaked wheat has been rolled and the heat created has gelatinized the starch. It is bulkier than torrified wheat, and closer to flour in storage qualities. It performs well, add it directly to the mash. With any large quantity of wheat, consider adding something like rice hulls to help ensure an easy lauter. The lack of a husk can cause stuck sparges. At 55% wheat I would suggest a 10% rice hull addition. Suggested mash schedule for wheat and pils malt grist: 40C (104F) 15 minutes 50C (122F) 30 minutes 60C (140F) 30 minutes 70C (158F) 30 minutes A two stage rest of 55C (131F) and 70C (158F) is less effective, but possible. Spend about 15 minutes at 131F. I hope this was useful. cheers, Stephen Ross -- "Vitae sine cerevisiae sugant." Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies, Saskatoon, SK orders at paddockwood.com www.paddockwood.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 13:30:28 -0500 From: "Charles R. Stewart" <Charles at TheStewarts.com> Subject: Chillin',Burnin', and Keggin' Maybe one of these days, I'll play with building a counterflow chiller, but for right now, my immersion chiller works quite well. One difference in mine, is its shape. Instead of building it in a cylinder, I pretty much kept the shape of the coil straight out of the box, and just pulled it out a little, then braced it. The resulting shape is kind of like >< as viewed from the side. I have pictures of it on my web site http://charles.thestewarts.com. It does so well, that I can actually see convection currents if I place it a little off center. Seems to chill my 12 gallon batches in 20 minutes or so with very little work. I posted a query recently about getting more power from my burner, and the most useful suggestion was to get a higher pressure regulator. Anyone have a good inexpensive source for one of these? And finally, I've decided to donate $2 to the server fund for each one of my three gallon kegs (ball and pin lock) sold on eBay to HBD members. I'd like to contribute something back to this wonderful source of information / disinformation / non-information. Make sure to let me know when you pay and I'll PayPal the money to the server fund ASAP. Thanks, Chip Stewart Charles at TheStewarts.com Gaithersburg, Maryland, USA http://Charles.TheStewarts.com Pursuant to United States Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, Section 227, any and all unsolicited commercial e-mail (spam) sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee of US$500.00. The sending or forwarding of such e-mail constitutes acceptance of these terms. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 13:35:00 -0500 From: JGORMAN at steelcase.com Subject: Bunch O Stuff I have a load of questions. Who has used One Step dual purpose cleaner/sanitizer? What is the exposure time and how effective is it? On several of my last batches of beer I get ring around the collar. I know that this could be an infection but there are no flavor flaws. I once read that it could be caused by an insufficient hot or cold break. I boil for a minimum of 60 minutes and cool in about 10. I was wondering if it could be caused by priming with DME? I only boil it for a few minutes. I also get a smearing of something on the sides of the bottle. Does anyone know where I can get a few bottles of the Sam Adam's Millennium Brew? Has anyone ever used the White Labs High Gravity yeast? Is this a bona fide beer yeast for just a jacked up liquid champagne strain? Can someone recommend a CP bottle filler? I am somewhat familiar with Phil's. Are there others out there that are single hand/triple valve action and easy to use? Jason Gorman River Dog Brewery GR MI Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 17:18:17 -0500 From: "Eric R. Lande" <landeservices at juno.com> Subject: Strike temp Greetings to the collective. After not having brewed since the Big Brew last May I did two batches this past weekend. Although I have been brewing for several years, I am relatively new at all grain (3-4 previous batches) and am infusion mashing in a chest type picnic cooler. Well I doughed in and brought up the water volume to 1 qt/lb, but the temp leveled around 142F. I infused some more boiling water and could not get the temp up to my 148F target. (I even resorted to the Charlie P. book) Finally I just added a large qty of boiling water and made a rather thin mash which did get the temp up. I had the same problem on Sunday and resorted to winging it by pulling some of the mash out and bringing it to a boil, which did help. My question for the collective is what is the best way to calculate strike temps and addition volumes/temps to be able to hit strike temp and/or step temp? Also, I've seen the terms "Malt Heat Cap", "Thermal Mass" and "Mash Tun Thermal" related to this subject. Can anyone tell me what they are and, if I need them, how to calculate them? Thanks in advance. Eric Lande Doylestown, PA Brewery still not named Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 18:12:25 -0500 From: "CozyE" <cozye at bellsouth.net> Subject: Burner modification, oxygen, molasses Hello all fellow brewers. It's been a while since I have posted, since then I have made dozens of great All Grain brews! Axle writes about aeration: >So if anyone would be kind enough to help, what I'm trying to figure out is >what to do about the foaming and once that is solved, how long should I >aerate the wort ? I've never tried using an aquarium pump, but I can tell you that with a little shopping on ebay you could get an oxygen regulator cheap. I have been using pure oxygen for my latest beers and it works wonderful. Dump the yeast in, hit it with oxygen until it foams up in 10 seconds, wait about 5 minutes, and hit it again. A 5lb oxygen tank will last you a life time. CAUTION! a blow off tube is a must for this method (and I use 6.5 Gal carboys) A couple questions I have for the collective: Any one ever modified a Cajun Cooker to put out more heat or save propane? I have a 130k BTU cooker with the typical cast iron (non jet) style burner. The regulator says that it is 15PSI. I have heard that I might possibly be able to drill out the orifice (I don't know which one) and get a little more BTU's out of it. A typical 11 Gallon all grain batch cost me about 10lbs of propane, and a lot longer heating time that some of my club members 200k burners. The thing I like about mine is that it sits a good couple feet off of the ground so it makes filling carboys very easy. Anyone ever used sorghum in a stout? I just brewed a stout this weekend and pitched in 1.5 lbs of sorghum at the last 10 minutes of boil. I drained some wort off first to dilute it in a small pot, then pitched it back in (so that the heavy stuff wouldn't just fall to the bottom and scorch). I guess I will find out in a couple of weeks how it taste but thought that I might get an idea from some of you who have tried it. I used a 1056 yeast in this batch. First taste of the wort did not reveal anything obvious but I hope the taste will be subtle and nice when it ferments out. Keep on keeping on, Eric Murray cozye at bellsouth.net Louisville, KY Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 15:19:52 -0800 From: "Steven M. Claussen" <sclaussen at mail.kindercare.com> Subject: conicentrical reply I said regarding the advantages of a conicentrical (CC) fermentor: >In addition to making yeast harvesting WAY easier, >efficient and less messy, I can think of at least the >following advantages: To which Stephen Alexander responded: "Efficient but you'll never re-pitch more than half the yeast. Less messy but you have to clean up the exposed valve etc on a full fermenter afterward. Harvest is way easier but pointless since most could only afford one such fermenter. Just where are you going to pitch that freshly harvested yeast anyway ?" To which I now reply: I have not found a need to re-pitch more than half the yeast. I usually harvest about 500 ml of thick yeast paste, which gives me lag times of about 3 hours upon repitching. As far as cleaning the exposed valve, I agree that it must be done - but any method of harvesting will involve cleaning. Before I had a CC, harvesting was such a PITA that I only did it a few times a year (usually when I needed alot of yeast to re-pitch into a high gravity beer). Now, I ALWAYS harvest, and the entire process (set up, sanitization of the valve, harvesting and clean up) takes less than 30 minutes. As far as where I put the freshly harvested yeast: it goes in a 2000 ml flask in the fridge until I re-pitch it a week or two later. I said: >1) trub removal with the flick of a valve To which Stephen Alexander responded: "And constant attention looking for end-of-trub." To which I now reply: I haven't lost sleep over the end-of-trub. I said: >5) side port makes sediment free transfers easy To which Stephen Alexander responded: "The sideport design brings up questions of either how clean is the resulting beer vs how much good beer is left behind. Always a tradeoff that requires adjustment and the levels are behind opaque stainless." To which I now reply: I agree that this is an issue. However, I was able to resolve it to my standards with a little experience. I usually lose between a pint to a quart of clear beer upon transfer, which is comparable to what I have left behind using other types of fermentors. Stephen Alexander said: "Corny's would have the same advantages at 1/10th the cost." To which I now reply: Been there, done that. The CC is ten times better as a fermentor, so it's a wash. ; -) Stephen Alexander said: "Assuming CCs still run $400 - would you really tie up your only fermenter for many weeks w/ 3.5 gallons of barleywine ? Have you never had three brews bubbling at once?" To which I now reply: Actually, it ran around $600. I have spent more on homebrew equipment with less satisfaction returned. I find that I am able to brew the legal limit of homebrew with a single 12.2 gallon fermentor and very little effort. I do, however, look back with fondness/horror on the days when I was obsessed enough to have three beers brewing contemporaneously. I am now happy to simply have three beers on tap at all times. Stephen Alexander said: "The conical bottom slope should permit trub and flocculent yeast removal cleanly, given constant attention. The saving of the transfer labor and sanitizing steps is offset somewhat by the infection potential around the valve and the necessity to clean this (w/ a full fermenter attached) after removing trub or yeast." To which I now reply: I agree that there is an infection potential. I scrub the valve with alcohol and flame it before harvesting. I blast the inside of the valve with a jet of water post harvesting, then spritz it with a liberal amount of iodophor from a spray bottle. As I said, the whole process takes about 30 min. So far, so good, as I have repitched multiple times without a (detectable level) of infection. Stephen Alexander said: "It's still just a racking cane alternative to me." To which I now reply: Like a Porsche is just an alternative to a Yugo. I think the point of my original post remains valid: if one does not have practical experience with a piece of equipment, one should limit one's criticism of said equipment. It reminds me a bit of my kids - they are still too young to reach the gas pedal, but they feel a constant need to tell me how to drive! -Steve Claussen in PDX - -- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 17:25:30 -0600 From: Gene Collins <GCollins at cranecarrier.com> Subject: Carbon Dioxide Someone recently asked the question as to whether or not there was a food grade carbon dioxide. I must have been blurred by the amount of purely scientific data that I was viewing, but I missed anyone responding to it, if in fact they did. I too would like to know. Gene Collins Regional Service Manager Crane Carrier Company 918-832-7336 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 18:40:59 EST From: BrwyFoam at aol.com Subject: CC fermenters Hi! I have been told that this forum has been pursuing a CC fermenter thread, and I could not resist adding my $.02 worth. During last few months I have renewed the study on fermentation systems that I reported in ABT. A fundamental addition to the current study is a Beer, Beer, and More Beer CC unit. Let me state at the outset that I have had zero financial transactions with BB&MB. They did give me one of their units (the one that was on display in Oct. at the NCHB festival held in Napa). Actually I fell in love with the unit they had on display at the Southern California Festival held earlier in Temecula, and they decided to let me have one knowing full well it would be frequently used! I am giving the keynote talk at the Bluebonnet at the end of March, and in the technical session on that Saturday I will present the results of the new study. I will also get the talk on my (long neglected!) web page. I worked hard to make sure that the results were reproducible by those who actually use the particular systems discussed. I have also entered brews in a number of large competitions in "fernem lands" to get feedback from others, as well as attempting to get a handle on a wide range of issues related to flavor stability that are specific to homebrew. For the record this report is highly favorable to fermenters configured along the lines of the BBMB models. As you might imagine my version is going to be with me for the rest of my life! I hope this finds everyone well. Cheers, George Fix Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 15:43:54 -0800 (PST) From: You Bastards <dude_kennysdead at yahoo.com> Subject: Plastic Carboys & Attenuation Blues Hello all, I was staring at these empty plastic 5gal jugs that are lying around my garage, when inspiration struck! Why not use these as primary fermenters? I guess I'm probably brewing too much, if all 4 of my glass carboys are in use, but the situation HAS presented itself. Anyone tried doing something this crazy? I assume that I just find a stopper to fit the neck, and do the standard airlock thing. Just figured I'd see if anyone had any caveats before I tried it. Since I have a source for these new plastic jugs, I can pretty much use them once and replace them. Thanks to the folks who either reside in, or have visited the Raleigh-Durham, NC area for the great tips on microbrew in the area. I was not disappointed in the recommendations. Regarding the "under-attenuation blues", I am a member of this club. Every batch of all-grain that I have attempted so far has wound up a little to a lot (lately) on the high side (terminal gravity). I am going to calibrate my thermometers, to ensure my mash temp is what I think it is. I use the O2 tank & ss stone method of aeration, with good sized starters, so I know it's not the yeast... My other big problem seems to be my mash efficiency. I am using a single-step infusion mash, utilizing a 10gal rubbermaid cooler with a stainless steel false bottom. So far, according to Promash, my best efficiency is < 68%. Assuming my mash temperatures are NOT way off of what they should be, would performing a mash-out, or a step mash increase the efficiency much? I'm a little confused regarding mash temps due to some recent "mash-out" arguments, the higher the mash temp, the lower the fermentables, correct? My last batch was mashed at 153 for 60 mins, for a OG of 1074, and a apparent (2 weeks have passed) SG of 1040, the highest yet. This flies in the face of what I thought should be, as it is the highest TG of any brew, yet it was mashed at the lowest temp. (typical mashes in the past were performed at 156) Any thoughts? Thanks for all the great posts and advice, I know a WHOLE lot more than when I started this adventure (not quite two months ago) brent electric pig brewery Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 11:15:08 +1100 (EST) From: Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative <Scott.Morgan at Sun.COM> Subject: steinbeer G'day there, I usually use river pebbles, probably granite for steinbeer. This is a fun beer to make to say the least. the stones are added to the in-laws combustion heater in winter and are red hot when pulled. The stones always bring the wort to the boil and last year whilst on route to the waort one exploded, which created a stir to say the least. never thought that I risked loosing an eye whilst brewing...and i did not even have "the good scissors" nearby! For the full toffee flavour to come thru i think bitterness should be low for the beer. Scotty Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 14:42:04 +1100 From: "Peter gunczy" <pcgunczy at primus.com.au> Subject: still on the FWH trail! Greetings Beerlings In my quest to succeed in FWH is the temperature of the sparged wort which runs to the kettle important ? My hops are soaking in wort which is approx. 55deg C(130 F) for 45-60 mins. any suggestions Peter Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 23:09:28 -0500 From: Bob Sheck <bsheck at skantech.net> Subject: More on Dry Hopping It seems to me that if you load up a pressure cooker with hops and either H2O or Wort for liquid, cook for awhile, then dump it into the fermenter you should be able to get a good hoppy extract? Bob Sheck bsheck, me-sheck, abednigo! Greenville, North Carolina email:bsheck at skantech.net or see us at: http://www.skantech.net/bsheck/ (252)830-1833 - ------------- "An independent station - WJAZ - With Jazz and conversation from the foot of Mt. Belzoni" <Donald Fagen- The Nightfly> - -------------DOG IS MY CO-PILOT------------------------ 1010101010101010101010101010101010101010 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 23:34:21 -0500 From: Kevin White <kwhite at bcpl.net> Subject: Oxygenating Wort and Pitching Yeast Oh Great Brewing Gurus, I Humbly Beseech Thee Grant Me Your Wisdom... Today I brewed a batch of ale, pitched the yeast, and then decided to give the carboy a good rousing. Now, I'm not seeing fermentation activity by the time I usually do, so I'm wondering: Have I done the yeast a favor or a disservice? Should I have given it the rousing *before* pitching the yeast? Should I repitch? Kevin White Columbia, MD Return to table of contents
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