HOMEBREW Digest #361 Tue 20 February 1990

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Refrigerator questions. (Mark.Leone)
  re: list (Mark Stevens) <stevens at stsci.edu>
  Failure in culturing yeast (John Mellby)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 19 Feb 90 09:44:49 EST From: Mark.Leone at F.GP.CS.CMU.EDU Subject: Refrigerator questions. Now that I finally bought a spare refrigerator for brewing (only $35, but getting it up the stairs was hell!), I've got a few questions: - What temperature should you use to proof/rehydrate a lager yeast? - I know it's best to pitch a lager yeast at an initially higher temperature (60-70 degrees). Should I put the fermenter in the refrigerator right after pitching, or wait for signs of an active fermentation? - After bottling, how long should lagers be kept cold? Ideally I would like to keep all of my lagers in the refrigerator, but I think I'll quickly run out of space. - My local homebrew shop keeps their leaf hops in a freezer. Is this any better or worse than just refrigerating them? What about freezing pelletized hops? - Does it help to refrigerate or freeze grains? Malt extract? Also, a belated comment on the recent chill haze discussion: If you're having trouble with chill haze, try using leaf hops *without* one of those mesh bags. It's not as neat, but when you sparge into the fermenter the spent hops supposedly help filter coagulated proteins out of the wort (according to Papazian). I doubt that this makes nearly as much difference as a good cold break, though. - -- Mark R. Leone <mleone at cs.cmu.edu> "Don't just do something, Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon University sit there!" Pittsburgh, PA 15213 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 90 10:59:02 EST From: (Mark Stevens) <stevens at stsci.edu> Subject: re: list First, kudos to Chris Shenton for putting together the comparison chart of homebrew supply prices (HBD 360). One other thing to keep in mind when looking for homebrew suppliers is distance. If you want to do business with a company that's too far from your home, you'll end up paying as much for shipping as you do for the merchandise! Keep in mind that most of the things you'll want to buy are heavy. It won't be difficult to put together orders of 20-50 pounds, or more if you're buying sacks of malted barley. In my case, I'm looking for shops in UPS zone 2--meaning that I'll only pay a couple bucks shipping on orders up to about 30 pounds. So I'm going to have to constrain myself to shops in PA, NJ, NC, DE, MD, VA, WV. There's great prices to be had from places like Green Acres in MN or Great Fermentations in CA, but I just can't afford the shipping! Higher shipping costs more than wipe out the cost savings. - --Mark Stevens stevens at ra.stsci.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 90 15:15:22 CST From: jmellby at ngstl1.csc.ti.com (John Mellby) Subject: Failure in culturing yeast Yeast in a Bottle! An experiment in culture Well, my Thursday experiment failed. I tried to culture some yeast for the next batch of beer, and it didn't work. As you know, most beer is pasteurized (or at least filtered) to remove the active yeast. But some good beer (especially American Microbrewery beer) is bottle-conditioned, meaning it is bottled with live yeast which continues to ferment in the bottle. This matures the taste of the beer, gives it a longer shelf-life, and adds nutrients to the beer. If you are careful, you can pour the beer, leaving an inch in the bottle which contains the yeast which has settled to the bottom. (N.B. I am told that even yeast which is called "top-fermenting" settles to the bottom. Go figure!) If you boil some dry malt (I used 1 cup which may be too much) in about 2-4 cups of water (I used about 2 cups) for 20 minutes, then let it cool, then add the bottom-of-the-bottle yeast, you can establish a growing bottle of the original beer's yeast. (Of course you sterilize the bottle, and put an air lock on top.) Theoretically this will have more live yeast and healthier yeast than if you start from a dry yeast packet, or from liquid yeast culture. I tried a bottle of Sierra Nevada Bigfoot Ale, got in D.C. in December, and thus probably from California several months earlier. After 3 days there is no activity, so I presume there wasn't enough yeast left in the Bigfoot bottle to start a culture. Well, tonight I try again. I have some Celebration Ale to use which should be newer and healthier. Anyone know whether Sierra Nevada uses the same yeast in Bigfoot and Celebration? They are so different it seems unlikely, but what do I know? Surviving the American Dream John R. Mellby Texas Instruments jmellby%ngstl1.ti.com P.O.Box 660246, MS 3645 Dallas Texas, 75266 (214)517-5370 (214)343-7585 *********************************************************** * "Its not what you've got, its where you stick it!" * * Edmund BlackAdder, BlackAdder goes Forth * *********************************************************** Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #361, 02/20/90 ************************************* -------
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