HOMEBREW Digest #3669 Tue 26 June 2001

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  mellowing bitterness for the nonbelivers (Aaron Perry)
  TSP in carboys (Aaron Perry)
  Re: Water+ ("A.J. deLange")
  Re: M.A.D.D. in Belgium ("G Zellmann")
  Blackberry Stout (leavitdg)
  Micros in Anchorage (Ralph Link)
  Conversion ("David Craft")
  Wyeast quest's (Jeff Hertz)
  Brewpubs/Breweries ("H. Neal Andreae")
  root beer (Chuck Dougherty)
  RE: CP bottling ("Houseman, David L")
  Re: Raising pH with slaked lime- problems ("Peter Fantasia")
  Head retention in keg ("Jim Hagey")
  Re: H2O2 Ingestion and HSO ("patrick finerty jr.")
  Re. Classic American Pilsner vs. Cream Ale ("Darryl Newbury")
  Beer along I-80... (Nathan Matta)
  Efficiency with partial Mashing (Phil Wilcox)
  Grain Mills ("Dennis Collins")
  A pain in my glass!!! (Phil Wilcox)
  hydrogen peroxide, or "Bleaching Your Beer" ("Dr. Pivo")
  CAP and cream ale recipes: part 1 (Jeff Renner)

* * 2001 AHA NHC - 2001: A Beer Odyssey, Los Angeles, CA * June 20th-23rd See http://www.beerodyssey.com for more * information. Wear an HBD ID Badge to wear to the gig! * http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we canoot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 00:14:40 -0400 From: Aaron Perry <secretlab at mediaone.com> Subject: mellowing bitterness for the nonbelivers Hey folks, I just made a special bitter for a summer BBQ party. I was rushing around and miscalculated my bitterness a bit. The brew has a bitterness that I'm ok with, although a bit much for the style. I'm sure that the budmillercoors crowd will all pucker and spit when they taste it. I'd like to tamper with it to get some balance....but I'm not sure where to turn. I've used Lactose in porters and stouts to counter bitterness, but I'm afraid it won't be appropriate in this bitter. I toyed with the idea of steeping a pound or so of light crystal (like carapils), boiling it, cooling and adding it in. I can't think of why this wouldn't work, but I figured I'd post it to see what you all think!? Any help or insight is appreciated. Private and public posts (preferably both..I'm short on time) are cool. Thanks Aaron Perry secretlab at mediaone.net Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 00:21:18 -0400 From: Aaron Perry <secretlab at mediaone.com> Subject: TSP in carboys Hi, David Craft wrote,"I usually put some PBW brand, powdered brewery wash, in the carboy and let it soak for about a week. It seems to get everything out....I wonder if TSP is about the same and would do the same for much less? Any ideas?" My box of TSP states that it will etch glass...I'd avoid usinfg it in a carboy. Hope this helps. Aaron Perry secretlab at mediaone.net Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 07:20:42 +0100 From: "A.J. deLange" <ajdel at mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Water+ Steve asks about a more complete list of water parameters. The "significant seven" (Steve's reference to Kirosawa demostrates that the mnemonic has worked on at least one guy) covers the parameters of most significance to brewing [start italics] assuming the water is potable [end italics] per the standards of the WHO or the country in question. There is a whole range of things to be found in water which influence its suitability for brewing (nitrate being one) but these are of secondary importance (relative to the significant seven) as long as the water is fit to drink. For example nitrate in municipal supplies in the US is limited to 10 mg/L, well below what is problematical for brewing, because of the fear of methemoglobinemia in infants ("blue baby" disease). A possible exception to this would be iron which is allowed at levels up to .3 mg/L in the US (actually this is an aesthetic limit - there is no primary limit) which might be a bit high for brewing. When moving to a well one is not, of course, protected by the various drinking water standards imposed upon public supplies. Well owners should, therefore, arrange for a complete test of the well to include organics, inorganics, biological and even radiological assay in areas where radon is found. The first three series can often be bought as a package for a something like $130 - $150. Look in the yellow pages - there is a national company that mails you a little kit with a mini-esky and some ice-packs. You fill the bottles and Fedex overnight back to them (this is done to keep the bugs, if any, alive). A report comes back in a few days with what they found and the MCL (limit) for each substance tested for. Armed with a favorable report you know that the water is potable and whether you have highish levels of metals (copper, zinc, iron, manganese, chromium). Unfortunately, alkalinity and the separate hardnesses are not of interest from the health point of view so they are rarely reported. Now you are back to the significant seven. I recommend that brewers on wells get some of the simple (sulfate excepted - no simple test for that) kits made by several manufacturers (Lamotte, Hach...) and test for these parameters yourself on a regular basis. I do it for every brew - its a nice way to fill in those boring times waiting for conversions to complete, the vorlauf to run clear, the boil to complete.... Where copper or iron are a problem equally simple kits can be obtained to test for those. As for a list - several of the brewing texts (DeClerk, Hardwick come to mind) have discussions of the individual ions and their effects on yeast and the beer in general. Moll (in Hardwick) in particular seems to have scanned and summarized the literature on this subject. I'm once again far, far from home and thus unable to be more specific at this point. A.J. > Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 10:54:49 +0200 From: "G Zellmann" <gregor at blinx.de> Subject: Re: M.A.D.D. in Belgium Rob Hanson wrote: > Seriously, though: anything that encourages a healthy > enjoyment/relationship with/use of beer and wine (who knows, the program > cold spread to France!), I think is a far sight better than our often > myopic and prohibitive attempts to curb the "evils of drink" -- all > those efforts ought to begin at a young age, and really can't be > successfully legislated against by the time one reaches his teens. > > Flame away. It's only electrons. No flame from my side! I agree 100%. I grew up in a part of Bavaria (Franconia), where there is at least one brewery/restaurant in each small village. As I was 10 or 11 years old, my parents allowed me (not encouraged!) one half pint of beer to go with dinner, when we were out eating in one of those places. The beer maybe had around 4% abv. And I find this was the right thing to do. Most parents there do introduce a century old tradition this way. I never had an alcohol poisoning.Many of my class mates in later years did. And I learned some responsibility towards myself, I might have missed otherwise. OK, I drink an average of 2 pints of beer a day now, but I did not become an alcoholist! :) On the other hand, I met a lot of people whose parents were very strict and restrictive about alcohol with their kids and guess what, some of them have big problems with alcohol. On a side note: My parents were very strict and tough trying to prevent me trying pot (as they were afraid, I would end up with heroin). I remember that the more they warned me about it, the more urgent I wanted to (and did) give pot a try. Hey, this is just *my* experience! I am *not* intending to make a general rule saying give your kids beer, and they won't end up as alcoholists! Selling beer in a school still does sound a bit too much. I would expect tipsy pupils fall asleep during the day or at least a lack in concentration. I would not want my kids to be in a school like this. cheers Gregor Zellmann Berlin Germany Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 06:37:46 -0400 (EDT) From: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu Subject: Blackberry Stout Here is the recipe for a 5.5 gal batch of BlackBerry Stout that I just pigged and bottled yesterday. It tasted so good that I thought I'd post it. 7 lb Maris Otter 2 lb Wheat 1.75 lb Vienna 1.5 lb Torrified Barley 1 lb (`80L) Crystal (Fawcetts...VERY tasty!) .75 lb Caraffa III 1 lb Rye (Fawcett's) 1/2 cup Chocolate Malt 2 stage infusion: 148F for 30, then ramped up to 159F for 30 (using Polarware mash-tun, applied heat while reirculating by hand to raise temp...), mash out at 170F. First runnings were 1.084 Boil gravity was 1.062 Sparged with ~6 gal pH adjusted 175F water Original gravity was 1.066 Secondary Gravity was 1.028 <ADDED 3lb Oregon Products Blackberry Puree to the secondary> <== Final Gravity was 1.020 %abv was 5.98% used yeast cake from previous batch of East Coast Amber Ale (wlp008 ...its 3rd and final use) yielded 1 pig and 24 - 16 oz Grosch bottles... tasted wonderful! Most of my malt comes from NorthCountry Malt Supply...no connection,..but I like their malt.... ...Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 07:20:49 -0500 From: Ralph Link <rlink15 at home.com> Subject: Micros in Anchorage I plan on being in Anchorage and Seward in early July. Can anyone recommend any local Micros that they know of. Thanks personal e-mail is much appreciated. Ralph Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 08:24:26 -0400 From: "David Craft" <David-Craft at craftinsurance.com> Subject: Conversion Hello, I have been all grain since spring and done 5 batches, all very good. It seems that the two Lager batches took forever to convert, 90 minutes to 2 hours versus 45 minutes for Ale malts. Is this typical? I do a single step infusion. I could add a protein rest without much trouble, but have not. Would that help? One batch was mostly Munich and the other mostly Pilsner malt..... Your thoughts, David B. Craft PS- I also have a novice homebrew friend dieing to do a Lambic. I saw the recent Zymurgy article and am curious if anyone used acid malt with good results versus the ugly bacteria.......... Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 06:36:27 -0700 (PDT) From: Jeff Hertz <duckinchicago at yahoo.com> Subject: Wyeast quest's I just did an APA over the weekend and used a Wyeast pack and was just wondering why it has never taken off. I was using the XL size of their "Northwest Ale" yeast, smacked it on Wednesday, gave it two days at 70 degrees to rise (it rose only minimally), then I made my usual 1000 ml starter Friday, pitched the pack in the starter, and pitched the whole starter in my wort on Saturday night. 24 hours later..nothing...no bubbling, no krausen...so being Sunday and no brewshops open in my area, I didn't have many options and had to pitch a yeast cake from a Saison that I had in secondary. The other strange thing is the Wyeast slurry had a reddish color to it which seemed odd. Now, 12 hours later-much bubbling and frothing thanks to my substitute yeast and I'm wondering about the logic of Wyeast and why I should use it anymore. Over the last two years, I've used White Labs vials for all but three batches and had virtually no trouble. Two of the three times I've used Wyeast packs, the pack didn't rise within 3 days and I had major fermentation problems. No, this is not a veiled advertisement for White Labs. I like the idea of Wyeast, and I know they're a big supporter of homebrewing, but is their product really this hard to use or am I doing something wrong? Do you need to wait for the pack to rise before pitching it into a starter? How long do people usually wait for the pack to rise? Any input is most appreciated. Jeff Hertz Glen Ellyn, IL Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 10:24:30 -0400 From: "H. Neal Andreae" <cstone at shentel.net> Subject: Brewpubs/Breweries Hello Folks I'll be in Myrtle Beach South Carolina for the month of July. Does anyone know of any Brewpubs/Breweries or even a bar with a broad selection in fermentables. Thanks in advance. Bottoms Up Neal-Upperville, Virginia Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 09:23:02 -0500 From: Chuck Dougherty <jdougherty at wlj.com> Subject: root beer > I found the Cresswell book in my local library, and the recipes were so > interesting that I thought I would try my hand at root beer with natural > ingredients. I found sassafras, sarsaparilla, licorice, and pretty much > anything else you can think of to put in root beer at my local whole foods > store. Be warned though; dried sassafras root is expensive. It is also > incredibly pungent, so if you work indoors, be prepared for your kitchen > to smell like root beer for days. > > Cresswell discusses the issue of whether sassafras is a health problem. > There were experiments with laboratory animals that indicate it may be a > carcinogen. This is why you can't buy real root beer in stores, and also > why you can no longer buy that green sassafras tea extract that used to be > popular here down South. Review the literature and draw your own > conclusions about the risk. You can make some great natural root beers > without sassafras if you're willing to experiment a little, and of course > there is also ginger ale, cream soda, and lots of others. > > Cresswell suggests using yeast for carbonation and bottling in glass beer > bottles. Ignore both of these recommendations. I carbonate my homemade > soft drinks in 2L plastic bottles with Carbonator caps. This approach is > safer, more consistent, and far less trouble. As previously suggested in > this thread, you need to really crank up the pressure to sufficiently > carbonate soft drinks, but be careful not to exceed the maximum > recommended pressure for the Carbonator caps. If you don't have a kegging > system, at least consider using plastic instead of glass. Soft drinks are > inherently unstable and will, sooner or later, turn on you. And of course > the whole safety issue is a great excuse to invest in a kegging system if > you don't already have one. > > Chuck Dougherty > Little Rock, Arkansas Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 11:01:08 -0400 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: RE: CP bottling As Pat and Steve point out, counter pressure filling is not that difficult. I do recommend getting the keg as cold as possible and usually have it pressurized to about 30 PSI. At one point I did get the bottles cold but found that it isn't necessary; but at least cool bottles are needed, IMHO, not directly from the dish washer or oven. I also chilled the CPFer but after the first bottle is filled, it's then as cold as it would have been anyway so I've stopped that process. One part of my process that stopped a lot of the foaming (although as Steve points out, capping on some foam is good since it's reducing the amount of O2 in the bottle) is to relieve the pressure in the keg and then apply just enough additional CO2 to match and keep what's in the beer. Thus equilibrium is reached without excessive CO2 on the beer in the bottle at the end of the bottling process. Since it's at equilibrium, you don't get the sudden gushing if you had a higher pressure that's suddenly released. Also, a bench capper is, IMHO, a must to make this easy. I CPF and cap by myself and it works. The most onerous task to me is cleaning and sanitizing the CPFer. Dave Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 11:29:48 -0400 From: "Peter Fantasia" <fantasiapeter at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Raising pH with slaked lime- problems I also have very low ph water. The water in the Pine Barrens of South Jersey is naturally acidic. I've had water tests done and they have shown the water to be very soft. Almost no dissolved minerals. Most townships will do this test at a nominal price. An additional test for "organics" would include farm pollution from excess fertilizer etc... I've had both tests run on my water and haven't found anything that is harmful. The organic test gives results for 60 something compounds. I usually add 1 3/4 tsp CaCO3 to 18 qts water for an 18 lb mash. This brings my mash ph to 5.3 which is ideal. Troy might be having a problem because he is trying to add the CaCO3 to COLD water. Try heating it first. A.J. writes "try using the lime water to bring the pH to about 8 and then mashing with that." Why would you want to bring the ph up so high? I would also be cautious about adding too much sodium bicarbonate due to the extra sodium addition. Some one also wanted to know what effect the acid water has on pipes. It eats through copper. So I have almost all PVC. As far as I know the water quality here in the Pine Barrens has always been rated very good. I have a well here and the water tastes as good or better than any bottled spring water and it makes great beer. Cheers Piney Pete Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 11:35:40 -0400 From: "Jim Hagey" <hagey at attglobal.net> Subject: Head retention in keg In HBD #3668 Mark Dickeson writes : > I seem to be having a few troubles with my keg setup. After fermentation > I pour it into the keg and pressurize it to 200 kPa (30 psi), then leave > it 4-5 days. After this, I drop the pressure to 50-70 kPa (8-10 psi) > ready for serving. My problem is that initially the beer pours very > frothy although the head quickly diminishes and the beer itself isn't > very gassy. As I use more of the keg, the frothing eventually ceases but > the problem with lack of carbonation is still there. I have bottled some > beer from the same batch and there is no problem so I am assuming the > keg setup is my problem. Do you think I need to leave it longer, or use > a higher pressure, or is there some other problem. Thanks for any > thoughts. I don't see you mentioning any shaking or rolling of the keg. If you are mearly placing the pressurized CO2 on the top of your beer, it will take a long time to disolve into your product. Try putting the 30psi on a chilled keg then rolling it around the kitchen for a few minutes. Then repeat the process two or three times. Release the excess pressure and serve at your normal pressure. Saves a few days and really allows that CO2 to be disolved into your yummy product. Hope this helps. Jim Beer and loafing in Kalamazoo Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 11:42:16 -0400 From: "patrick finerty jr." <zinc at finerty.net> Subject: Re: H2O2 Ingestion and HSO On Sunday 24 June, 2001, Tombrau at aol.com wrote: > Hello Fellow Brewers: > > I have been following the H2O2 thread vaguely and recalled that there is a > belief that ingesting food grade H2O2 cures anaerobic illnesses such as > cancer and viral diseases. > > There are several books and websites (oxytherapy.com, for one) that make > quite a case for oxygenating your body for good health. i'd say it's good for health! however, i generally prefer to 'oxygenate' my body by actually breathing air, YMMV. so, on one hand we have Pauling and his very large doses of vitamin C (an antioxidant) and on the other we have people who want me to oxidize my body. what's a guy to do? well, i'm just going to sit back and let my superoxide dismutase do it's job. brew more beer... - -- The world does not have to be this way. Patrick J. Finerty, Jr., Ph.D. Forman-Kay Laboratory Hospital for Sick Children http://finerty.net/pjf Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 14:53:32 -0500 From: "Darryl Newbury" <darryl at sagedesign.com> Subject: Re. Classic American Pilsner vs. Cream Ale Jeff Renner wrote: ... > there is a reason that lagers blew ales out of the water in most of the >world in the >19th century. Damn, it's good! (Did I say that already?) While CAP is a wonderful style, especially if brewed by Jeff, the 19th Century shift in style popularity had alot to do with factors outside of consumer preference. It was after all a period of massive change in which smaller producers (who brewed a wide range of styles), were gradually being pushed out of the market by bigger industrial breweries who found benefit in producing fewer styles technically well. That period also saw a shift in transportation methods with the rapid growth of a rail network making it easier for larger breweries to transport their product and use their economies of scale to undercut the local competition. Thus, larger breweries penetrating larger a geographic market had an increase in brand recognition. In addition to the economic factors that gave pilsner a competitive advantage in North America, there were other factors as well. Predominently, there was the arrival of German immigrants, who brought with them an understanding of brewing science which far exceeded the previous generation of brewers here and they of course, brewed lagers. Therefore, it can probably be assumed that the the technical quality and stability of lagers far exceeded that of existing ales. A major contributing factor outside of taste, which led to a shift in consumer choice was the visual appeal of CAPs. Imagine being a 19th Century ale drinker in Canada or the US, having never seen a light, clear beer and setting your eyes on your first pilsner - the visuals of a CAP would be similar to the visual appeal of darker beers for people today when the make the switch from industial to craft beer. Both clear glass for serving, and malting changes which led to beer that was neither opaque, cloudy or murky were new had an substantial impact on the marketplace. The rise of Cream Ales, in fact, was a direct response by ale brewers to the increasing popularly of pilsner, they too needed a bright clear beer to put in the glass mugs that were rising in popularity. And as enjoyable a style CAP may have been, its popularly led to a decline in competition as fewer producers made more beer, and with less competition out there, the number cruchers at the big breweries took over and looked to ways to cut costs -- and out went the hops. Therefore the rise in popularity of CAP led to a declince in choice which inevidably enabled its replacement with the American Standard Lager (also known as megaswill to many on this forum), a style which probably dominates the market more due marketing and the bottom line of the corporations that produce them than to consumer demand. Of course, prohibition also played a role in the decline of choice which accerlerated the departure of small producers from the market, while bigger players like A-B were able to survive by selling malt extract and unfermented malt beverages. So while we should all partake in the enjoyment of the reborn Classic American Pilsner with many thanks to Jeff, we should continue to celebrate all the other styles of beer that we as homebrewers have been enjoying over the past couple of decades (including the poorly named CACA). By the way Jeff, still no baby... and you were right about my Classic Canadian Cream Ale (CCCA - the acronym isnt so bad on this side of the border) - due to the high OG, I seem to be getting some fusels and probably should have diluted prior to fermentation rather than afterwards as you suggested. Cheers Darryl Newbury ... east of Yonge Street, Toronto, Ontario Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 15:11:48 -0400 From: Nathan Matta <whatsa at MIT.EDU> Subject: Beer along I-80... Hey gang. I'm going to be driving a rental truck west from Massachusetts to Cedar Rapids, IA. I expect to be on I-80 for most of the trip. Any tips on brewpubs or commercial beer worth picking up and trying out? I'm already planning on trying Millstream (since I have ties to the head brewer) and Alpha King. Anything else worth watching for along the way? Nathan ======================================== Nathan Matta Fuzzy Beer Home Brewery Randolph, MA, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 16:45:19 -0400 From: Phil Wilcox <pjwilcox at cmsenergy.com> Subject: Efficiency with partial Mashing Gregg, The reason you got virtually nothing was your water to grain ratio. You diluted the scarce available enzymes in too much water. The water to grain ratio is usually stated in Quarts to Lbs. Most of us use between 1:1 and 2:1, yours was better than 16:1. Perhaps you read 2:1 and thought someone meant gal's intead of quarts? To get to your efficiency question. You got 100% from your liquid Malt extract, 82% from your crystal and 0% from the wheat and carapils. Most-likely. At least that is my guess from using Brewers workshop to guestimate the numbers. For partial mashing i think I would use 66% as my target. I get 81% on my all-grain system. Brewers Workshop clocked your overall performance at 40%. Pitifull, yes, but not an entire waste of time. For steeping I use the three pot and a strainer system. Ill rewrite your recipe into my directions as an example. To your recipe I would add a .25 lb of 6-row malt to provide some more enzymatic power. Wheat Malt has barely enough to converted its self. CaraPils is also low, and crystal has none, but doesn't need it either (Chocolate, Black and Roasted Barley are the other 3 that don't need mashing). 0. Take the lid off your kit, put the lid, the directions and the yeast directly into the garbage. The only kit yeast I would ever dream of using is Coopers. And even then only if I was making australian ale. 0.5 Reread these directions start to finish. 1. Turn you oven on to its minimal setting usually 120 or 150. If its higher don't worry. Just turn it off once it gets to temp. 2. The recipe now brings you up to 2 lbs of grains and in a 6qt pot I would add 2.4 qts of water and bring it to 160F. (1.2:1 ratio) Put your crushed grains in a grain bag and add them to the water. Hopefully you hit 150F. +-5F is fine. Put the lid on and put it in the oven. Turn the oven OFF. Let it mash for 45min. 3. Next take the label off and pierce the lid of your extract and take the lid HALF-way off. Bend the lid up a bit and put the can in the oven also. 4. Meanwhile fill your big pot with water and bring to a boil or close to it. If you have an electric stove you have to take the big pot off the burner else when you add you extract you will risk scorching the heavy extract on the bottom of the pot. If you have a gas stove or burner just turn off the heat. 5. Take your third pot. A 2qt sauce pan works great. Dip it into your hot water and ladel out a full pot then set it aside. 6. Get your strainer or collander out and put it over your big pot. 7. Use hot pads to remove your Mash Pot from the oven. Use tongs to pull the mash bag out of the mash liquior. Let it drip for a minute till is about done. 7.5 Then gently dunk it in the big pot once or twice. (This is cheating, but dunk sparging does work. If you use it make sure your water is not over 170F, and skip steps 8, 9, and 10) 8. Next put the colander underneath the grain bag and let it drip into the big pot. 9. Now examine what is in the pot that had the mash bag in it. If it is clear and has no particles floating about then just dump it into the pot. If not (more than likely) gently pour it over your grains through your colander and into the big pot. The grain bag will filter out the excess particals just the same way the mash does for all-grain folks. 10. Now you can gently pour the 2qts of hot water that was in that sauce pan over the grains to "Sparge" them. Note your Sparge ratio is also about 1:1 or a little less just like the rest of the brewing world. Aim for a slow continuous pour that covers the bag in a circular motion and takes about 2 min to completly empty the 2 qt pot. This would be called "Fly Sparging". If your arm is getting to sore or it you think you are risking scalding yourself, then you could empty a quart at a time with a 1 min rest inbetween. This would be called "Batch Sparging." 11. After its done dripping you can place the grain bag in the garbage, and rinse the colander off in the sink. 12. Now using oven mits or pot holders, carefully grab the hot can of extract from the oven. Don't spill it. Pour it into you big pot and rinse the can with hot water. With a long handled spoon stir like the dickens, untill the bottom of the pot feels clean. You can now return the big pot to the burner and continue heating until it boils. 13. Be watchfull of the boiling point, Boil overs are very common and very messy. When you reach boiling turn down the heat approximately 30%. You want to keep as big a boil as you feel you can control. Boil 10 min before adding any hops. 14. Add your bittering hops with 60 min left to boil. Watch carefully as this has been known to cause boil-overs. 15. Add you Flavor hops with 20 left to boil (if you have a chiller now is a good to add it) 16. Add your Aroma hops with 2 min left to boil. 17. at 0 Min left of boil kill the heat and cover the pot and chill as fast as possible to 65-70F. 18. Transfer to your Sanitized fermenting vessel splashing as much as is sanitarily possible. Sanitation is CRITICAL from this point till consumption. Sanitation, Sanitation, Sanitation. I can't stress it enough 19. Pitch your agressing fermenting starter. Shake, or otherwise oxygenate your wort. If using dry yeast properly rehydrate three 5g packets for an ale, 5 or 6 for the mythical dry lager yeast. Yes, thats alot of yeast. According to my calculations of the viable yeast after rehydration, and the optimal pitching rate in viable cells/ml I came out with 14 g of dry Danstar yeast for 5 gal of average wort. Thats a half of an ounce. Do you think thats too much? NOT! Wheeler and Prost call for up to 3 oz of dry yeast in their book Brewing Real Ale at Home! Now that, I call too much! These are my well refined basic proceedures for making partial mash beers at home. Other people do alot of other things, this is what works for me. I won my first awards with partial mash beers made just this way. Even though I've been an all-grain brewer for five years now, I still go back to these basic principles when teaching new brewers how to brew. Phil WIlcox Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 16:35:22 -0400 From: "Dennis Collins" <dcollins at drain-all.com> Subject: Grain Mills Not to stir up the great grain mill debate, but has anyone used or seen the roller mills made by CrankandStein? (www.crankandstein.com) They offer several models and look very well built, but they require some fabrication on the hopper and mounting, but since I was planning to motorize my mill anyway, that might not be a big deal. I was looking at their adjustable model which uses an offset mounting for the non driven roller that is held in place by a set screw. Looks like you would need a feeler gage and some patience to adjust it. If anyone has used this and could give an opinion on the effort required for adjustment and the overall quality of the mill I would appreciate it. Dennis Collins Knoxville, TN Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 16:56:55 -0400 From: Phil Wilcox <pjwilcox at cmsenergy.com> Subject: A pain in my glass!!! Ok, I have some really special Mead for a special event. The annual event takes place at a shoreside resort. As a cool design element I thought it would be cool to make the 6 oz coke bottles I plan to bottle in, look like beach glass. a.k.a. Frosted glass. What is the best way to do 50 or so of these??? A. Sandblaster B. Etch them with acid I assume I would cap them full of water to protect the lip with either method. I have never used either method and would love to know how to use these methods, how long it would take, approximately how much $$ and the pro's and con's for each of them. Any guesses anyone? Anyone in Michigan have a sandblaster I can borrow? Phil Wilcox Jackson, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 23:08:31 +0200 From: "Dr. Pivo" <dp at pivo.w.se> Subject: hydrogen peroxide, or "Bleaching Your Beer" This does not fall under the category of an "experiment". This does not even rate qualifying as a 'spurment.. I think this might be called "casual observation" when you happen to have had a bit of "casual influence" on the outcome. There has been a bit of discussion of late (and previously) about the use of hydrogen peroxide as a source of yeast oxygen. "Theoretically", this does not strike me as a good thing to do. "Hypothetically" it might even turn out bad. "Practically" I haven't got a clue. As an attempt at setting up a roadblock for yet another endless accumulation of speculative and oft' extremely bitter comments, I thought I would "try something".... being both a frequent and large quantity brewer of beer, and quite a large fan of H2O2 as a sanitising agent. I posted some "round numbers" that my peanut sized brain could accommodate (Hey! I have on occasion had a different point of view than "God", which I 'spose makes me irretrievably "knuckle dragging"). After awakening and slapping the other side of my face, I thought: "WAIT A MINUTE! I am really getting only "one" oxygen radical per molecule, and that's only half of what the yeast are going to need (O2, or a proper "oxygen" molecule.), I bumped my numbers up a bit. Since Brian Lundeen , was the only one who replied to see if I was thinking totally wrong, I decided that you had all either gone to sleep, or were planning the next vindictive posting, or maybe I was about right. I think there are 4 points of interest in this question. 1) does this generate oxygen and "help" the yeast? 2) does a free flying "free radical" have an inhibitory (toxic) effect on the yeast? 3) what effect does this have on final flavour.... perhaps not just providing yeast food, but oxidising taste components that you don't want having done (instant "old barrel"?) 4) is this something we should be drinking? My final "blend" was 0.5 ml of 35 percent of the good hair dye, diluted to 5 ml ("I think we are at about at three and a half percent now" He said, as he dragged his knuckles).. I put an extremely long and thin needle on the syringe, and stuck the needle as deep as possible into the brew, and injected slowly as I moved the syringe around the whole circumference of the fermenter, which was about 30 litre in volume, and I won't mention the H:L, W:H, or H:C ratio.... I will however mention that Cap'n Salty when he says: > And remember -- fermentor geometry is completely irrelevant to the > production of good beer. Fermentor COLOR, on the other hand, is > critical. ...is absolutely correct, and that is why ALL of my fermenters are "plaid". I got "less" foaming than I had expected. As I mentioned earlier, I had chosen a beer, with it's fermenting twin beside it, which was just coming on to "white krauzen"..... you know... when the top gets a very thin foam of white that "doesn't quite" reach the outer edge of the fermenter. I picked this stage because having played with "dropping" as a means of reoxygenating, I've found this is sort of the last point where you "guarantee" that you can "rush a ferment on" without creating oxidised flavours. After 24 hours, the beer was (visibly) at the same stage (stalled), while it's twin sister was starting to make "meringue". After 48, it had picked up again. On questions "1" and "2", it sure looks like the yeast took a waxing. When it comes to "3" and "4".... I will be tasting this later, but recommend that YOU DON'T DO THIS! Why should I get to taste this and you not? Easy. Because I use a lot of hydrogen peroxide. If someone get's a steering wheel in the gut and their large intestine bursts open, or a little kid has a burst appendix.... in short, anytime the "poopy" side of the gut get's exposed to the sterile room it should be living in.... once the pieces are back together I am in favour of flushing everything out with a dilute solution of H2O2. Indeed! Every carbuncle, fistula, infected atherome.... in short anything I open up where the smell reminds me of "some" midwesterner's sauerkraut cultures... I shout for the peroxide (3 percent) dilute it with saline (probably to about 1/2 percent... I don't measure).... and squirt it in. After the big pink bubbles foam out for a while, I flush the thing out with saline. Now, I THINK that this is non-toxic. I check wounds later and see nice granulation tissue (healing stuff). But I don't really know. There are concerns that the greatest damage to a "strangulated bowel", for example, is not just the lack of oxygen causing tissue death, but the over reaction of the immune system, and cells releasing (among other things) free radicals. I feel pretty comfortable that beer has been around humankind so long that it is "pretty safe" stuff, and even might be beneficial. Start oxidising the Holy Schmoley out of it, and I wouldn't feel so safe guaranteeing that. As to anecdotal claims that ingesting peroxide and a bunch of antioxidant vitamins are healthy, it all sounds a bit like starting small fires and then stomping them out, and doesn't sound like a good "game plan" to me. If I, on the other hand, have been unwittingly generating future problems years down the road for people that I've thought I was doing a "good job" for....... ..... well shouldn't it be justified..... NAY, shouldn't I almost be OBLIGED to drink a bit of "peroxide products". But, what the heck. My behaviour has always been pretty "free" and my thinking, if not my whole essence is considered by most to be "radical"........ maybe I'm immune. Dr. Pivo Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 22:07:13 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net> Subject: CAP and cream ale recipes: part 1 Brewers Several HBDers have asked for recipes for CAP and cream ale. Below is a slightly revised recipe from my Sept/Oct, 2000 Zymurgy article. I corrected the amount of water for the cereal mash and changed it to reflect several other changes. I did not mash in at 104F (40C) for my brews this year, but rather at the first rest of 146F (53C). It really seems to work just about as well. I add the cereal mash after a 30 minute rest to boost to the 158F (70C) rest (with heat or boiling water if necessary). This also reflects my slightly higher FWHing. These mash rest times are very arbitrary. Longer won't hurt to accommodate the schedule. If you can't get 6-row, 2-row works just as well, and some brewers prefer it. Likewise, if you prefer simplicity, substitute flaked corn (maize) or rice for the cornmeal or rice and skip the cereal mash and even the step mash. Mashing at no higher than 149 F (65 C) will give a crisp beer, higher mash temperatures will give a less attenuated beer. Cluster hops are probably what the vast majority of breweries used 100 years ago, and were still the predominate hops until the last few decades. They still are used widely. If you prefer for taste or availability reasons, you can use all noble hops or US equivalent (Crystal is wonderful), or use any neutral hops for bittering. Do not use the distinct modern American hops such as Cascade, Columbus or Centennial. This are not appropriate, IMHO. If something doesn't make sense, let me know. I may have made mistakes in my revisions or my temperature conversions. This is a great summertime beer. I hope this will inspire more brewers to brew it. Please report your results if you do. Jeff -=-=-=-=-=-=- 5 finished beer gallons at 1.051 7.25 lbs. six-row malt 2 lbs. coarse corn meal* *Or grits, polenta or coarsely ground rice, or combination of rice and corn First Wort Hops: 4-5 HBU Saaz or other noble hops Bittering hops: (60 minutes) 5.3 HBU whole Cluster (4.8 HBU for pellets) Flavor hops: (15 minutes) 1.5 HBU whole noble hops or Styrian Goldings (1.2 HBU for pellets) ten minutes before strike. Yeast: Any clean lager yeast Water: low alkalinity, low sulfate water See part 2 TRADITIONAL AMERICAN "DOUBLE MASH" for additional details. Schedule for American Double Mash for cornmeal or rice (grits and polenta must be boiled longer): Time 00: In a kitchen pot, mash in corn or rice and 10 ounces of malt with ~3 quarts of water (~4 for rice) to hit 153F (67C), rest in preheated oven 20 minutes. Time 15: Mash in main mash 146F (63C) Time 20: Bring cereal mash to boil, stirring Time 30: Cereal mash boiling, stir frequently Time 65: Add cereal mash to main mash yield, adjust temperature as needed to 158F Time 95: Ramp to 170F (76C) mashout, then sparge and lauter As soon as kettle bottom is covered add first wort hops and maintain wort temperature at approximately 170F (76C) during lautering. Collect enough wort to yield 5.25 gallons finished wort. Boil uncovered at least 60 minutes, longer to reduce DMS if necessary. Chill to 48F (9C), aerate or oxygenate well, pitch yeast from large starter. Ferment at 48F (9C) until fermentation nearly stops, about 10 to 14 days, rack to secondary and reduce temperature 4F (2C) per day to 32F (0C). Lager six to seven weeks. - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
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