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FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
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Contents:
DeWolf-Cosyns..GoodBye (Jim Wallace)
Origin of Whitelabs English Ale Yeast WLP002 ("Dan Diana")
Stuck Fermentation (Smith Asylum)
Star San dilutions (Denis Bekaert)
Beer Recipies ("J L")
re steam beer... (Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative)
Dishwashers in bottle sanitizing (Denis Bekaert)
re: Mash Temp/Thickness Vs. Fermentability (John_E_Schnupp)
Yeast storage (Denis Bekaert)
Party Pig Stuff ("Ray Daniels")
bottle sanitizing & grain storage ("Pannicke, Glen A.")
Party Pig Adapters, New CounterPhil Check Valve Design and 12" Sparge arms. ("Dan Listermann")
Re: Fermenter 'geometry' ve fermentation performance.- a (Jeff Renner)
Re: Flags ("Steven Parfitt")
chest freezer tap set up (LJ Vitt)
Freezer Conversion ("D. Schultz")
thanks (Marc Sedam)
1/2" triclover fittings followup #2 (Rob Dewhirst)
Re: 3 gallon cornies ("Kurt Schweter")
Re: party pig ("Kurt Schweter")
Re: Bottling & Kegging combo question (Jay Pfaffman)
Re: UPS shipping woes - followup (Spencer W Thomas)
Re: party pig accessory ("James Kingston")
Yeast Propagation ("Branam, Mike")
RE: Dishwashers (DHinrichs)
budvar yeast (stpats)
mash thickness by feel ("John Todd Larson")
Testing the dishwasher method (Danny Breidenbach)
fermenting with raw honey (Rob Dewhirst)
Using a Dishwasher to Clean Bottles (Patrick.Humphrey)
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Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 00:31:58 -0400
From: Jim Wallace <jwallace at crocker.com>
Subject: DeWolf-Cosyns..GoodBye
Does any one have any insight into the recent news below..
Schrier (Now Cargill) has been handling this malt for the past few years
it has become a major component in my brewing and I would really hate to be
without it.. perhaps a little dialogue on what could be good replacements
for the various malts.
> INTERBREW TO CLOSE DEWOLF-COSYNS MALTINGS
> Interbrew, parent company of DeWolf-Cosyns Maltings has announced it
> will close the famous Belgian malting facilities in 2002. "Following an
> in-depth study of the long term future of its malting business,
> Interbrew decided to close its malting plants in Belgium," according to
> a company press release. The move was expected.
_________________________________
Jim Wallace
http://www.crocker.com/~jwallace
_________________________________
Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 21:26:23 -0700
From: "Dan Diana" <dands at ftconnect.com>
Subject: Origin of Whitelabs English Ale Yeast WLP002
I brewed a mild ale earlier this year and used White Labs English Ale
Yeast WLP002. This strain is very flocculent but fermented the beer down in
3 days of primary fermentation and began to flocculate from then onwards.
I have noticed that the beer has and still has a diacetyl character
which I attribute to the high degree of flocculation. I have not found
anything like this in commercial English beers and am wondering if anyone
knows the origin of this strain-it is quite nice.
Regards,
Dan
Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 21:44:50 -0700
From: Smith Asylum <smithly at neta.com>
Subject: Stuck Fermentation
I searched the archives and read all the posts that came up under "stuck
ferment" and learned a lot. But I didn't get answers to the questions I had
regarding my current situation. My situation is: A stuck (ver-r-ry slow)
fermentation. I started out with a 1.085 SG and it dropped to 1.065 after
two weeks. I racked to a secondary and the SG dropped to 1.036 after three
weeks. It only moved 2 points in the last week so I added 1/2 tsp White Labs
yeast nutrient and the SG dropped 6 points in 4 days. Unfortunately it
stayed there for a week. Three days later the SG had not changed so I
racked it a third time and added another 1/2 tsp of yeast nutrient with no
results. Here is the recipe, a knockoff of Samual Smith's Winter Welcome
Ale:
4.5 lbs. British Pale DME
1.0 lb Pale Crystal
2 oz Roasted Barley
1 lb Clover Honey
2 oz Malto-Dextrin Powder
1 oz Fuggle plugs (boil)
1.25 oz Bullion pellets (boil)
0.75 oz E. Kent Golding pellets (flavor)
0.25 Bullion pellets (flavor)
0.5 oz E. Hallertauer pellets (aroma)
0.75 oz E. Kent Golding pellets (dry hop)
White Labs Claifornia Ale yeast WLP051
I executed the recipe with the normal boil, etc., etc. Following the hop
schedule was the most difficult part of this.
My questions are:
Should I add another starter?
Should I bottle?
Should I add yeast along with the priming sugar when I bottle?
Should I Bean-o it?
What is the highest safe level of SG to bottle with and is there anything
else I can do to bring it down to that level (short of adding grain alcohol)?
I'd hate to lose the body that all those sugars create, but at the same time
I'm in fear of bottling grenades as I will be out of town during botle
condition. From reading the archives I am going to allow it to warm to 70
deg).
Any other thoughts?
I don't plan on drinking this till Christmas so it will have plenty of time
in the bottle. I've been keeping it at 66 deg and taste testing it whenever
I check the SG. It tastes great! I am anxious to get it into the bottle (my
losses are mounting).
Thanks for your time,
Lee Smith
Chandler AZ
In retrospect, maybe I should have gotten more experience before I tried such
a BIG Beer!
Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 22:25:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Denis Bekaert <Denis-B at rocketmail.com>
Subject: Star San dilutions
Well, OK, I was just not going comment on the Star San
question since there seems to be a better
understanding of storage of diluted solutions (ie.
working strength) but I did want to pass on what the
Star San folks themselves told me. To wit: diluted
solutions that remain clear and have a pH of 2-3 are
perfectly acceptable for their intended
use--sanitation. I have been using the same 5 gallon
batch for almost three months now and the pH has
remained at its proper level and it has remained
clear. During this time I have brewed more than a
dozen batchs of beer without a single sanitation
problem.
In fact, I have never had a sanitation problem, ever,
using Star San. For me, it's a fantastic product and
since I've learned that a diluted solution maintains
its functionality, it has become a much more cost
effective method of sanitation. To rinse something in
tap water that has been carefully sanitized is a
highly suspect procedure...so the no-rinse feature of
Star San is a very strong point in my mind.
The usual standards apply here, I have no relationship
to Star San other than being a highly satisfied user.
Denis in Beechgrove, Tennessee where Moonshine is our
history, but brewing is our passion
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 15:27:42 +1000
From: "J L" <aussie_brewer at hotmail.com>
Subject: Beer Recipies
Hi all,
I am just wondering if anyone knows of any good recipies that are similar to
DAB and Bass IPA. Preferably made using extracts (I have yet to venture into
full mash brewing).
Cheers
Aussie Brewer.
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 15:29:47 +1000 (EST)
From: Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative <Scott.Morgan at Sun.COM>
Subject: re steam beer...
Re the Steam beer from the other day...
Have been more than happy with this one!
http://oz.craftbrewer.org/beerstyle/steam.html
scotty
Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 22:47:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Denis Bekaert <Denis-B at rocketmail.com>
Subject: Dishwashers in bottle sanitizing
Alastair asked about the use of an automatic
dishwasher for sanitizing bottles, so here's my
experience for what it's worth...
I regularly use the dishwasher WITHOUT detergent or
soap to sanitize my bottles. The drying cycle heats
them quite well and kills off any potential spoilage
beasties. Not only is the detergent not needed, it
is, IMHO, highly contraindicated. Most of the
commercial products for home use contain a rinse agent
that might be fine to make glasses shine, but also
just kills the beautiful head on your beer. And, as
Alastair discovered, the soapy residue is certainly
not something you want to taste in your beer.
Naturally, this assumes you always rinse your bottles
immediately after pouring your beer into a proper
glass I also cover the bottles with a clear plastic
wrap in the case to keep them clean until I'm ready to
bottle.
Although I have moved on to kegging some beers,
bottling will always be important to me for those
beers that I either want to enter into competition or
share with others. Besides, five gallons of some
styles is just too much of a good thing at one time.
I know some brewers will tell you that repeated
heating of bottles in the dishwasher will make them
prone to crack, but I've never had the problem myself.
I'd also like to thank all of you more experienced
brewers for all the help I have, and continue to
receive, in improving my brewing skills. Hope I can
continue that tradition for others entering the world
of homebrew....
Denis in Beechgrove, Tennessee where Moonshine is our
history, but brewing is our passion.
Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 22:51:12 -0700
From: John_E_Schnupp at amat.com
Subject: re: Mash Temp/Thickness Vs. Fermentability
Pete,
Thanks for converting the charts. One thing I would like to point out
to you (and whoever else may post tabular or chart type information)
is that you should be using a fixed width font (such as Courier).
The columns in your chart came out askew. I realigned the chart and
here it is, in a more readable format.
You can do all sorts of really neat things with ascii art.
I know its isn't really brewing related, but check out some of the
collections at: http://www.blankcdmedia.com/ascii-art-links/
With a little creativity and practice, you too will be able to do
basic drawings. In the past, I have posted ascii drawings to the
HBD of some of my various creations. The key is fixed width fonts.
John Schnupp, N3CNL
Georgia, VT
95 XLH 1200, Horse with no Name
Mash Temp/Thickness Vs. Fermentability
% of wort solids Temp. in degrees farenheit
140f 150f 154f
- ----------------------------------------------
Monosaccharides 10.1 9.5 10.2
Disaccharides 51.7 48.1 42.0
Trisaccharides 14.3 13.6 12.7
Maltodextrins 0.1 4.1 9.7
%Extract 76.2 75.3 74.6
%Fermentables 76.1 71.2 65.1
Effect of mash thickness on Saccharification at 150f
% of wort solids Mash thickness
39 oz/qt 23 oz/qt 17 oz/qt
- ---------------------------------------------------
Monosaccharides 11.9 9.5 8.1
Disaccharides 42.9 48.1 46.6
Trisaccharides 12.6 13.6 15.0
Maltodextrins 11.9 9.5 8.1
%Extracts 73.4 75.3 74.2
%Fermentables 67.4 71.2 69.7
Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 23:21:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Denis Bekaert <Denis-B at rocketmail.com>
Subject: Yeast storage
I'm at the stage in my brewing where I'd like to be
able to store, that is freeze, yeast cultures for
later use. I seem to remember a discussion some time
ago about a company that made a kit for this purpose.
Can anyone help me out with a URL?
Also, how long can I store a culture in a starter
solution in the 'fridge?
Thanks for all your help, past...present and future.
Denis in Beechgrove, Tennessee where Moonshine is our
history but brewing is our passion
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 05:59:19 -0500
From: "Ray Daniels" <raydan at ameritech.net>
Subject: Party Pig Stuff
Ken Miller." <kgmiller2 at yahoo.com> asked about Party Pig accessories. This
may have come from Listermann Manufacturing in Ohio -- they make accessories
for both the party pig and the German mini-kegs. Both of these topics --
and a range of other issues related to homebrew packaging -- will be covered
in the upcoming September/October issue of Zymurgy, by the way.
Ray Daniels
Editor-in-Chief
Zymurgy & The New Brewer
Phone: 773-665-1300
E-mail: ray at aob.org
Call Customer Service at 888-822-6273 to subscribe or order individual
magazines.
Don't Miss:
Celebrate American Beer Month in July (See www.americanbeermonth.com)
Don't Miss: The Great American Beer Festival Sept 27-29, 2001
For more info see: www.beertown.org
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 08:46:15 -0400
From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke at merck.com>
Subject: bottle sanitizing & grain storage
Nils wrote of bottle sanitizing:
>On the day of bottling, I load
>the bottles into the dishwasher & run them through just the heated dry
cycle
>for a last minute sterilization. Do you think this final dry cycle
actually
>does anything?
This subject comes up pretty frequently. The temperatures in the heat dry
cycle are not sufficient to 'sterilize', but they may be sufficient to
'sanitize', depending on your dishwasher. The difference being that
sterilizing will reduce your bug count to virtually zero. Sanitizing will
reduce your bug count sufficiently based upon the temperature and length of
the cycle. Increases in temperature and time, of course, lead to increases
in microbial load reduction. Temperatures in excess of 130F (ballpark) are
required, typically in the 140 - 170F range.
I do something similar to what you do. I soak the bottles in a bleach
solution overnight and the next day I'll rinse them well and run them
through the rinse cycle with heat dry. I don't think much water gets up
inside of the bottles during the rinse, but one thing to consider is the use
of any rinse aids. They work wonders on making your bottles nice & shiny,
but they could also foul the head retention of your beer.
Tom pondered his grain storage:
>I've recently started buying grains in bulk to save some money. I know I
>need to store them in a cool, dry place, but I live in Minnesota and the
>weather doesn't always cooperate. My question is how humid is too humid,
>and how warm is too warm.
Tom, I'm about ready to start storing and milling my own grain too. Here in
NJ we enjoy temperatures that match the relative humidity in the summer
months. 90F & 90% is pretty common. My grain will have to be stored in the
basement which will help with the temperature, but not the humidity. To
protect the grain from insects and seal out the outside air, I plan on
purchasing storage buckets with a screw-top and an o-ring seal on the lid.
I'm not sure where I've seen them, but there out there. Too keep moisture
down I'll also need to find reusable silica gel bags. It was a reccomended
remedy in a woodworking magazine I subscribe to for preventing rust on
tools. Apparently all it takes is a minute or so in the microwave to
reactivate the bags. At least this is what I plan on doing. You might get
better help from someone with experience.
Carpe cerevisiae!
Glen A. Pannicke
glen at pannicke.net http://www.pannicke.net
75CE 0DED 59E1 55AB 830F 214D 17D7 192D 8384 00DD
"I have made this letter longer than usual,
because I lack the time to make it short." - Blaise Pascal
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 09:04:12 -0400
From: "Dan Listermann" <dan at listermann.com>
Subject: Party Pig Adapters, New CounterPhil Check Valve Design and 12" Sparge arms.
"Ken Miller." <kgmiller2 at yahoo.com> asks about an adapter to allow Party
pigs to use CO2 cartridges. We will soon be introducing an adapter that
will allow brewers to tap Party Pigs with the Phil Tap which uses 12g
cartridges. About two are required to empty a Pig plus there is about a
quart more capacity in the pig because of the space that the bag normally
consumes.
We have developed an improved check valve for the CounterPhil that seals
much more tightly than the ball design. The leakage around the ball, while
relatively harmless, was annoying. The new design eliminates this
annoyance. If anyone has an older design and would like a free replacement,
just drop me a note at dan at listermann.com with your snailmail address and
we will send one.
Just a reminder. We now produce 12" sparge arms for half barrel lauter
tuns.
Dan Listermann
Check out our new E-tail site at http://www.listermann.com
Take a look at the anti-telemarketer forum. It is my new hobby!
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 09:17:41 -0400
From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Fermenter 'geometry' ve fermentation performance.- a
"Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> wrote of his 'spurment.
The only remarkable differences I see are in pH; the half filled
corney had lower pH than the other two at the middle of fermentation:
>At 62 hours after pitching I took pH measures as a means of assessing
>fermentation progress. The readings were
><4.070, 4.068, 4.009>.
and the three were more or less equally separated in pH at the end:
>pH and SG reading were taken at 210 hours when the
>fermentation was clearly over and clearing underway (just
>under 9 days). pH readings were < 4.057, 4.028, 3.998 >.
Any ideas why? Was it that when you topped all three with CO2, it
had more CO2 to dissolve as carbonic acid? That would seem to have
only a transient effect once fermentation took over.
Jeff
- --
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 09:49:29 -0400
From: "Steven Parfitt" <the_gimp98 at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Flags
Thanks to David Craft...Got my Beer Flag last night. Really kewl!
My kids (Single dad) were totally supportive. When my daughter (20) saw it
she said "God dad....If you put that on the house we are going to throw you
out!"
Ha..ha..ha.....hmmm wonder if they are serious?
Steven, -75 XLCH- Ironhead Nano-Brewery http://thegimp.8k.com
Johnson City, TN 5:47:38.9 S, 1:17:37.5 E Rennerian
"Fools you are... who say you like to learn from your mistakes.... I prefer
to learn from the mistakes of others and avoid the cost of my own." Otto von
Bismarck
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 08:16:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: LJ Vitt <lvitt4 at yahoo.com>
Subject: chest freezer tap set up
An unnamed person from CMEBREW asked about taps in a chest freezer:
>Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 08:01:14 EDT
>From: CMEBREW at aol.com
>Subject: tap set up
>I presently use a 12-14 (?) cu ft chest freezer for serving up to 6
>cornies
>by using an internal, 6 fitting gas manifold, connected to an external
>20 lb
>CO2 tank and regulator. The only problem is, I have each keg hooked up
>with a
>picnic tap, and opening and closing the lid to the freezer causes a lot
>of
>condensation on the walls and bottom. I'm looking for a solution other
>than,
>"don't open the lid so much" that looks good and sells for less than
>$5000.
>What sort of economical set up do some of you brewers use? If I go to a
>tower
>system mounted on the lid how well does that work? How about costs for
>one
>that will dispense at least 2 beers? Sources---anyone have one for
>sale? Can
>a system be mounted on the side or front wall of the freezer? Charlie,
>still
>in Mansfield, Ohio
There is an article about this in one of this year's issue of Zymurgy.
I think it is the April/May issue. It describes building a wooden collar
to give a place to run tubes through. The collar fits between the
freezer lid and the main box. CO2 tank can sit outside, line runs
into freeezer, and beer lines out to taps mounted outside the freezer.
If you are not an AHA member (an thus don't already have a copy), you should
be able to buy a single copy at a homebrewing supply store, or borrow one
if you know someone who gets the magazine.
- Leo Vitt
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 08:32:40 -0700
From: "D. Schultz" <d2schultz at qwest.net>
Subject: Freezer Conversion
Hmm. Two requests for freezer conversions on the same day.
Check out how I did it at http://www.users.qwest.net/~d2schultz/ .
Burp,
-Dan
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 11:47:48 -0400
From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu>
Subject: thanks
Couple of things...
1) Some people have asked about where to get a calibration
thermometer. I got mine at William's Brewing (NAYYY) for
$35, but I'm sure other HB shops sell them.
2) Wanted to send a note of thanks out to the collective,
but AJ specifically, for helpful suggestions on dealing with
a clogged SS aeration stone. I soaked it in some acetone
(nail polish remover) for two days, rinsed thoroughly, and
was able to again blow air through the stone. I'm still
going to rinse and store the thing in some grain alcohol to
prevent minerals from clogging up the stone. But it seems
like the stone was clogged with something that the acetone
dissolved.
More good things from the HBD.
Cheers!
- --
Marc Sedam
Chapel Hill, NC
(148 deg, 510 miles Rennerian)
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 11:00:27 -0500
From: Rob Dewhirst <robd at biocomplexity.nhm.ukans.edu>
Subject: 1/2" triclover fittings followup #2
After locating the parts, an extensive talk with Bill at Moving Brews, I
decided to use stainless unions (also from moving brews) instead of
triclamp fittings. These are roughly twice what copper fittings, and
they're threaded so there is no soldering involved. I've found copper
unions inexpensive and easy to work with, but they clearly have a finite
life due to the use of a wrench to tighten them.
The triclamps I located for the least cost were from Outterson, LLC.
<http://www.fermentationbiz.com>. The complete set would be $45 each,
assuming FPT on each end. Don was very helpful there and willing to deal
with small quantities. I am still contemplating purchasing one of these
for a kettle drain.
Hope this helps someone else.
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 12:09:18 -0400
From: "Kurt Schweter" <KSchweter at smgfoodlb.com>
Subject: Re: 3 gallon cornies
a good place to look for the nice 3 gallon ones
is in the restaurant service industry
I got a bunch from a soda system installer/ cleaning co.
also check used restaurant supply stores
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 12:15:32 -0400
From: "Kurt Schweter" <KSchweter at smgfoodlb.com>
Subject: Re: party pig
stien fillers in long beach ca. sells the
replacement - for the pig
it has a ball lock connector and a tap
it's on their web site
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 11:51:05 -0500
From: Jay Pfaffman <pfaffman at relaxpc.com>
Subject: Re: Bottling & Kegging combo question
I too am a big fan of carbonator caps. When I was using only
mini-kegs I made a couple out of plastic soda caps and some chrome
valve stems. I've read that you should be able to find stainless ones
at places that sell Mag Wheels for only a couple bucks. When I got my
CO2 tank I bought a schrader valve (about $4) for it so that I can
continue to use my tire-valve caps. It's a bit cheaper than those
carbonator caps and maybe more fun.
I think I got the idea here: http://home.highertech.net/~cdp/tapcap.htm
Like Dan says, it is very convenient to be able to quickly carbonate
and taste a beer.
I can now also fill tires with C02. That has yet to come in handy.
People without CO2 system who'd still like the joy of force
carbonating beer when they're too impatient to wait for bottle
conditioning can buy CO2-cartrige-based bike pumps (which is what my
mini-keg tap uses) for about $10.
- --
Jay Pfaffman pfaffman at relaxpc.com
+1-615-343-1720 (office) +1-615-460-9299 (home)
http://relax.ltc.vanderbilt.edu/~pfaffman/
On Wed, 11 Jul 2001 10:58:22 -0500, Dan.Stedman at PILLSBURY.COM said:
> While I am here - another nice thing about having a kegging system
> is that you can get a couple of carbonator caps (the things that
> screw on PET soda bottles so you can carbonate stuff right in the
> bottle) and carbonate your beer for sampling immediately. I love to
> fill a PET bottle 3/4 of the way up while transferring from primary
> to secondary. Then I can chill and carbonate it (by applying 15 lbs
> of pressure to it and shaking it for a minute) to see how it is
> coming along...
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 13:10:19 -0400
From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu>
Subject: Re: UPS shipping woes - followup
>>>>> "RJ" == RJ <wortsbrewing at cyberportal.net> writes:
RJ> ... with plenty of bubble
RJ> wrap, in between the bottles and all around the outside so
RJ> that there is no "clinking" sound when shaken.
If there is any "clinking" sound when you shake your package, you're
risking bottle breakage. If the bottles hit something hard enough to
"clink," they can hit something hard enough to break.
=Spencer
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 10:07:45 -0700
From: "James Kingston" <jkingsto at uci.edu>
Subject: Re: party pig accessory
> From: "Ken Miller." <kgmiller2 at yahoo.com>
> I recall seeing an ad somewhere for a replacement for the valve
> assembly on
> the party pig which uses 1 or 2 CO2 cartrages instead of using
> the pouches.
> Does anyone else remember this and where can I getting pricing
> and ordering
> information.
>
If you'd like to use a cylinder rather than burn your cash with cartridges,
my local hb shop carries The Snout.
http://steinfillers.com/Snout.htm
NetZero Platinum
No Banner Ads and Unlimited Access
Sign Up Today - Only $9.95 per month!
http://www.netzero.net
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 14:02:47 -0400
From: "Branam, Mike" <Mike.Branam at ccur.com>
Subject: Yeast Propagation
I just brewed a Harpoon I.P.A. clone last weekend. I would like to brew
another batch this weekend. What I would like to do is to rack the first
brew to my secondary and use the yeast from the primaries to pitch into the
new batch. How do I do this when the time between racking and pitching is
only an hour or so?
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Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 13:10:10 -0500
From: DHinrichs at Quannon.com
Subject: RE: Dishwashers
>Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 14:34:20 -0700
>From: "Hedglin, Nils A" <nils.a.hedglin at intel.com>
>Subject: RE: Dishwashers
>4) Rinsing them with water to remove the idophor residue (we have a
>whole-house water filter so I don't worry about additional baterial
>contamination)
Actually a filter can make your water less safe. What can happen is the
filter gets contaminated with bacteria and other waterborne nasties during
installation, maintanence or if the source has a temporary problem. Once
trapped by the filter it can then multiply and make the problem worse. Most
filters are not capable of preventing growth or even preventing straight
transmission. Those filters that are small enough >5 micron are also
supseptable grow through where cells will grow through the filter media
until it fully contaminated and useless. Also follow the the recommendations
of the manufacturer in regards to replacement intervals to reduce potential
problems. When I maintain my system I try to use brew quality sanitation to
prevent problems.
This and many other interesting facts where learned as a water treatment
equipment designer in a former life.
Dave, in Minnetonka MN
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Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 13:15:06 -0500
From: stpats <stpats at bga.com>
Subject: budvar yeast
The Budvar yeast has been packaged in XL packs for St. Pats by Wyeast
for nearly two years now, since September, 99. It is available to
breweries from Wyeast with my consent . I have never refused a
brewery request.
I do not know if the yeast recently offered by White Labs under the
name 'budejovice' is the Budvar strain or perhaps the yeast of the
other Ceske Budejovice brewery Samson (Crystal in US), or perhaps
neither. There is nothing to prevent White Labs from simply getting
a pack of Budvar yeast and adding it to their selection. The
'Budvar' yeast is the most distinctive of all the Czech yeasts and
easily identifiable simply by brewing with it.
I am doubtful that the Budvar strain (or the Gambrinus H-Strain) were
in any yeast banks in America prior to my acquiring them. The Budvar
strain, as well as the Czech malts, have received a lot of interest
from commercial breweries in the past six months or so. Another
example of homebrewers being a year ahead of the curve.
Lynne
- --
St. Patrick's of Texas Brewers Supply
512-989-9727
512-989-8982 fax
stpats at bga.com
www.stpats.com
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Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 11:10:45 -0700
From: "John Todd Larson" <larson at amazon.com>
Subject: mash thickness by feel
I have been all-grain brewing for about a year, and feel like I have made
some good beer. That said, I never measure water and grain when mashing. I
don't plan to change.
Could someone describe for me their average mash consistency (in words, not
measurements). I usually end up with something close to medium-consistency
oatmeal. Does this seem about right?
J. Todd Larson
Senior Finance Manager, M&A
Amazon.com
larson at amazon.com
(206) 266-4367
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Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 13:12:01 -0500
From: Danny Breidenbach <dbreiden at math.purdue.edu>
Subject: Testing the dishwasher method
What would be a quick and dirty, yet accurate and reliable, way to see
if a rinse-and-dry cycle in the dishwasher (D/W) actually achieves
adequate sanitation for bottles?
For that matter, what would be a quick and dirty way to see if a hot
water rinse from the sink removes enough baddies for bottling?
I'm more interested in something that looks for evidence of nasties than
in doing a controlled study (bottle some beer with standard sanitation
and bottle some with D/W bottles). Would something akin to a wort
stability test work? Anyone care to rehash what a wort stability test
is?
I know any results would be probabilistic ... by that I mean that even
if the test shows that the method is effective as a sanitizer, an
occasional bottle or two might go south. But something other than: "So
far it works for me," would be helpful to many folks, I believe. Esp
since my D/W no doubt acts differently from other folks'.
- --Danny Boy in West Lafayette, IN
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Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 14:04:13 -0500
From: Rob Dewhirst <robd at biocomplexity.nhm.ukans.edu>
Subject: fermenting with raw honey
I have a honey ale recipe I am particularly proud of. My recipe calls for
honey in the boil. After a recent homebrew club seminar on mead, I am
wondering if it isn't possible to add raw honey to the secondary instead,
so long as it's been sulphited separate from the fermenting beer.
I understand that sulphites+beer=bad, but will a sulphited honey solution
that's been given proper time to gas off create the same problem for a beer
that it's added to?
Optionally, is there a way to get rid of wild yeasts in honey other than
heat or sulphite?
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Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 13:52:16 -0500
From: Patrick.Humphrey at abbott.com
Subject: Using a Dishwasher to Clean Bottles
It seems that many people have been using their dishwasher to clean and
sanitize bottles. I have tried this in the past as well but have since gone
to a kegging system. I never was convinced that the water was able to get up
into the bottle completely, either.
One point to consider when washing any glasses or bottles is that the
anti-spotting agents that are used in the dishwashers will also kill the head
of your beers. If I recall correctly, these are surfactants that break down
the surface tension of water, thus allowing the dishes to dry without spots,
the so called "sheeting action". This also would tend to kill the head of
your beer if any remains on the glasses. I have always noticed that if I pour
any of my beers into a plastic cup that the head stays strong for a long time
yet when I pour one into my pint glass, the head always disappears fairly
quickly. We have started to wash the beer glasses by hand and thoroughly
rinse them to get rid of any soap residue. It seems to have helped with head
retention.
Just a thought to consider when washing your beer glasses.
Pat Humphrey
Lake Villa, IL
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