HOMEBREW Digest #3726 Tue 04 September 2001

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  Re: Bass ale clone...which yeast? ("Peter Fantasia")
  AOL Readers... (The Home Brew Digest)
  Somewhat OT : hydrometer to salometer conversions? (Alan McKay)
  Hop deterioration ("Strom C. Thacker")
  Mills ("Dan Listermann")
  Re.: Bass ale clone with 'wrong' yeast ("Sean Richens")
  JSP Malt Mill ("Norm Hardy")
  Remember that lemon... (Chuck Doucette)
  new advances in bottling? ("Badger/DJ Sable/Project Mercury")
  re: Tap-A-Draft (John Schnupp)
  Re: SSRs (The Freemans)
  Re:  JSP Malt Mill ("Leonard B. Dmochowski")
  "yeast farming" (carlos benitez)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 08:44:18 -0400 From: "Peter Fantasia" <fantasiapeter at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Bass ale clone...which yeast? Denis asks if he should use 1056 or1318 in a Bass ale clone. I would use the 1318 London ale III. It will give you more of the fruity profile your looking for. Cheers Pete Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 09:47:58 -0400 (EDT) From: The Home Brew Digest <hbd at hbd.org> Subject: AOL Readers... Greetings, Beerlngs! Take me to your lager... If you are trying to subscribe from an AOL address, please be sure your mail filters are set to allow mail from outside AOL. Consult AOL technical support if you do not know how to change your mail filters. - -- Cheers! The Home Brew Digest Janitorial Staff Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 13:21:38 -0400 (EDT) From: Alan McKay <amckay at ottawa.com> Subject: Somewhat OT : hydrometer to salometer conversions? Hey folks, I'm doing some reading on pickling and there is talk of a "salometer" which is graduated to show salt concentration. Does anyone have a conversion chart to allow me to use my hydrometer as a salometer? thanks, -Alan c.f. http://www.foodproductdesign.com/archive/1996/0996DE.html - -- "Brewers make wort. Yeast Makes Beer." - Dave Miller's Homebrewing Guide http://www.bodensatz.com/ What's a Bodensatz? http://www.bodensatz.com/bodensatz.html Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 13:36:31 -0400 From: "Strom C. Thacker" <sthacker at bu.edu> Subject: Hop deterioration Several years ago (c. 1994), I got a bag of Hallertau Mittelfruh hop pellets from Boston Beer Company. They are packed in foil, and have been stored in the freezer since I got them. How much of a decline in the alpha acid content should I assume when brewing with these hops? Is there any reason not to use them? Thanks, Strom Newton, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 13:41:13 -0400 From: "Dan Listermann" <dan at listermann.com> Subject: Mills <Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 19:47:31 -0400 (EDT) <From: Ed Jones <ejones at sdl.psych.wright.edu> <Subject: jsp malt mill <I'm seriously considering buying a JSP malt mill but I don't know if I should <buy the fixed or adjustable version. Admittedly, I'm fairly ignorant about <grain size and how to even adjust a mill, but I'd learn if it were actually <important. What would you recommend? Learning how to adjust a mill is not really that difficult. First, you are making grist not gaps. You adjust the grist by changing the gap. There is no such thing as an "optimum gap" for all grains. There might be an "optimum compromise gap," but it is just a compromise. Generally, each grain needs to be examined every time it is crushed although specialty grains might be skipped. I never measure my mill's gap, but I always check the grist. Many books will tell you to "just barely crush the malt." This was good advice for hard to adjust burr mills like the Corona. With a roller mill this will only give the efficiency of a Corona. The modern roller mills can crush much finer without causing problems and give much greater efficiency. I crush my malt so that it is difficult to find uncrushed corns and those that I do find are underdeveloped looking. This is a quick skill to master and can be performed almost without thought. <Secondly, the Phil Mill 2 has smaller rollers and probably crushes a little <slower, but it seems to be much easier to adjust. Does anyone have any <comments relative to these two mills? The Philmill II has a slightly lower throughput than the JSP for hand cranking. However the Philmill II has a much better throughput when motorized. It can pass more than 9.5 pounds per minute ( 570 lbs per hour) with a 1/2" drill. The difference is hopper opening design. The JSP needs to restrict roller exposure to allow practical hand cranking, especially the initial crank. Its opening is very close to the rollers. This is fine for hand cranking, but reduces roller exposure at higher speeds since the grains don't have much time to spread out beyond the opening before being pulled into the gap. The Philmill II's hopper opening is smaller that the JSP, but it is big enough that it can pass far more malt than it can crush. The key is that the hopper is high enough above the rollers so the grains have plenty of time to spread out. This allows the rollers full exposure at any speed. Greater speeds do not bring on restricted roller exposure with this mill. Dan Listermann Check out our new E-tail site at http://www.listermann.com Take a look at the anti-telemarketer forum. It is my new hobby! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 13:02:07 -0500 From: "Sean Richens" <srichens at sprint.ca> Subject: Re.: Bass ale clone with 'wrong' yeast Denis, I hope you brewed anyway (since it's already Monday). It's from the 'oopsies' and compromises that new personal best recipes are born. If you used the Wyeast 1056, I'm sure you could make it interesting enough, if not a true clone of Bass, by going a couple of degrees over the optimum fermentation range for primary fermentation and keeping the secondary short (no more than 2 weeks). I'm sure you won't have trouble keeping it warm in Tennessee, at least not this early in September. Sean Richens srichens.spamsucks at sprint.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 11:32:13 -0700 From: "Norm Hardy" <nhardy at connectexpress.com> Subject: JSP Malt Mill The adjustable mill is best if you plan on using a lot of different types of malts. Adjusting it is as easy as loosening a bolt, hand turning the knob to match a notch on the dial, and tightening again. I had to widen the mill for some Czech pils malt and will have to adjust again when I go back to my usual domestic ale malt later. The JSP maltmill is top-notch quality. I use it for 5-gal batches and would be okay with 10-gal batches but anything larger would force me to consider a motorized version. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 13:37:12 -0700 (PDT) From: Chuck Doucette <cdoucette61 at yahoo.com> Subject: Remember that lemon... Hi All, A couple of months ago, I asked about using lemon in beer. Well, I have finished (finally) that brew. All in all, it's not bad. I used a Weizenbier extract kit with Wyeast # 3944, the zest of about 2 lemons, and about 1 gram of Paradise seed. I steeped the lemon zest in the wort at the end of the boil for about 5 minutes. The Paradise seed went in with the hops. As for the 3944, That was the slowest yeast I have used yet. It was 36 hours from the time I smacked the pack to the time it was ready to use! The ferment was slow too, 7 days after it became active in the primary it was ready to transfer. Another week in the secondary, and into the bottles. After about one month in the bottle, the clove and Paradise seed flavors are starting to mellow out and the lemon is coming through. I think next time I will use more lemon zest, 50 - 100% more. And now a question. Has anyone out there tried the Old Peculier clone recipe that was in the March/April issue of Zymurgy? I am going to try it but was wondering about the sugars. In the recipe listing it calls for 8 oz. of dextrose, but in the article, it mentions turbinado. My thought is that these are interchangeable (at least for the purposes of the recipe), but thought I'd ask for an opinion or two. Chuck Doucette O'Fallon, IL Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 15:36:38 -0700 From: "Badger/DJ Sable/Project Mercury" <badger at badger.cx> Subject: new advances in bottling? So, I've made the switch to kegs (quite come time ago) but now am finding it a bit constraining. I've never had good success with Counter Pressure filling, and all that. I've sort of quit brewing for while, (its been a year or so), and I'd like to get back into it.. Question: have there been any advances in bottling techniques since I've been gone from HBD? Any good suggestions and tricks? Articles? anything? Bottling would be a little more convenient, in the sense that I could bring a six pack to a party instead of carting a 5 gallon keg (heavy) with a CO2 tank, valves and all that. Anything? [] Brander (Badger) Roullett [] http://badger.cx [] ICQ# 46814661 [] [] Syncromesh Internet Radio and Productions [] http://syncromesh.net [] [] Project Mercury [] http://badger.cx/projmerc [] - -- My motto is: When the world turns its back on you, get the world in a headlock, give it your biggest, baddest pile driver, and then pin it to the ground while the Sun counts to ten. (Rumination by Rosey Kirkbasserlake) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 17:47:58 -0700 (PDT) From: John Schnupp <johnschnupp at yahoo.com> Subject: re: Tap-A-Draft From: Squidwerd402 at aol.com >I was wondering if anyone has had an experience using the Tap-A-Draft small >kegging system currently available through morebeer.com. Interesting. The price doesn't seem too crazy. The cost of the CO2 cartridges might add up after a while. But it seems like a good idea. You could probably naturally carbonate with a "regular" bottle cap. This way you could get all the bottles carbonated before serving. Just uncap and quickly attach the Tap-A-Draft system when you are ready for a new bottle. You won't loose all the carbonation. ===== John Schnupp, N3CNL ??? Hombrewery Georgia, VT 95 XLH 1200, Horse with no Name Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 20:27:16 -0500 From: The Freemans <potsus at Bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: SSRs I have 2-240 volt 25 amp rsolid state relays on "the perfesser" They are mounted outside of any enclosures and are also mounted on a heat sink. A single 10 amp SSR can be mounted to the outside of a metal enclosure without the benefit of a heat sink. Mine are under the bottom of the HLTand behind the electrical panel. http://www.brewrats.org/hwb/er/images/er04.jpg A thorough grounding od the whole system is needed to eliminate gettin' knocked on your duff. What you have outlined seems safe enough. Bill Freeman aka Elder Rat K P Brewery - home of "the perfesser' Birmingham, AL Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 22:51:13 -0400 From: "Leonard B. Dmochowski" <lenski at fuse.net> Subject: Re: JSP Malt Mill Ed Jones ponders: "I'm seriously considering buying a JSP malt mill but I don't know if I should buy the fixed or adjustable version. Admitidly, I'm fairly ignorant about grain size and how to even adjust a mill, but I'd learn if it were actually important. What would you recommend? Secondly, the Phil Mill 2 has smaller rollers and probably crushes a little slower, but it seems to be much easier to adjust. Does anyone have any comments relative to these two mills?" If you decide to purchase the JSP, I would recommend purchasing the adjustable version. Although you consider yourself ignorant about grain size (which I'm sure you're not), eventually you will want control of your crush. A few friends of mine have the JSP and love it. I have the original Philmill but I have used the Phil Mill 2 at Dan Listermann's shop a few times. The Phil Mill 2 offers a great crush, it's plenty fast enough, and you can adjust the crush on the fly if you desire. No affiliation with either company.............. Cheers! Len Dmochowski Cincinnati, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 20:01:57 -0700 (PDT) From: carlos benitez <greenmonsterbrewing at yahoo.com> Subject: "yeast farming" Hello everybody, While I mostly just lurk and learn, I find that I now how have a question for the board: I made a beer the other day using a yeast starter culture made the following way - I used about 1/2 cup of DME boiled in about 750ml of water - let this cool to room temp. I then poured this directly into a 1L bottle which I had just drained of homebrew ;-) leaving the yeast sediment in the bottom. I then replaced the Grolsch type cap and let it sit at room temp overnight. I did pop the cap twice to relieve any pressure build-up. I poured this starter right into my fresh wort the next day after brewing with (so-far) good results. Two immediate questions come to mind - how long will yeast survive in beer in the bottle (med. alcohol levels - not barley-wine), and am I really setting myself up for a bad batch doing this ? It seems like an easy way to re-use yeast. Thanks in advance, ===== BIBIDI ! Brew It Bottle It Drink It Carlos Benitez - Green Monster Brewing Return to table of contents
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