FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org *************************************************************** THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY: Northern Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies http://www.northernbrewer.com 1-800-681-2739 Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site! ********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html ********* Contents: Yates learns from the master, Hop backs (craftbrewer) Subject: Kegging in PET and Tap-A-Draft, ("Badger/DJ Sable/Project Mercury") Adjustable malt mills (John Wilkinson) aeration..and foam (Darrell.Leavitt) Re: Ball lock -> pin lock? ("Jamie Smith") hop back ("Alan McKay") pumpkin ale ("Alan McKay") Five Star Site ("Eric R. Theiner") Re: esters (Jeff Renner) O2 permeability (Jeff Renner) re: fatty acids ("Stephen Alexander") Bass Taste(s) ("John Elsworth") bottling in PET ("Sean Richens")
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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 16:23:34 +1000 From: craftbrewer at telstra.easymail.com.au Subject: Yates learns from the master, Hop backs G'day All / Well the radio progarm is over for another month. And yes believe it or not I now have demand for tapes of the program from over there. Why people would want to actually cop an earful my strine I have no idea. Perhaps people dont think i actually exist. I know Phil certainly has a hard time facing the fact that he has learnt heaps from me, be it dirrectly or indirectly. He is still in denyal after seeing utopia and returning to the rust belt of Australia to his little empire (and yes its just a spec compared to wonders of North Queensland) / Now what has got Phil reluctant to say is he is happier than a head hunting cod at a tourist dive site over my technique of plating yeast and making starters from them. Seems the starter he made from a plate of San Francisco Lager yeast took him by surprise. He could not believe how fast the starter kicked into action and also how clean the starter was. / Now I have always said this is the best way of ensuring your starters are always healthy, vigerous and clean, and Phil has finally seen the light. So much so he is even keen to look into my method of storing and handling yeast. / For the rest of you go to http://oz.craftbrewer.org Look under Materials and Methods Then Sterile Water Yeast Storage / And this From: ThE HoMeBrEw RaT <skotrat at yahoo.com> Subject: HopBacks / I am in the process of prototyping a hopback with a buddy and wanted to see what everybody else has going for a hopback. anybody have pics or descriptions of theirs? <<<< / And the answer is yes. Same website look under Gadgets and Gear Look under My Brew Day as well as the Hop back article / Shout Graham Sanders / Oh Phil Sorry to hear that a certain airline might be going down quicker than the Aussie dollar. Combine that with the fact you are following my techniques in brewing and I can understand the stress you are under. If it makes you feel better, you can have a go at me. I wont mention you are looking at moving to North Queensland to learn more about brewing, even live, now you have seen the light. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 23:49:28 -0700 From: "Badger/DJ Sable/Project Mercury" <badger at badger.cx> Subject: Subject: Kegging in PET and Tap-A-Draft, > I have considered the Tap-A-Cap but without the valve or CO2 cartridges. > That leaves just the 6-liter PET bottle. Unfortunately morebeer wants $6.95 > each for them. A far cry from $0.50 for a 3 liter. I have found a source > for 6-liter but they only sell by the pallet load. > > So, can anyone help me get this project back on track? Have you considered the CO2 cylinder thing that Williams makes? I've been considering moving to this for easy transport http://www.williamsbrewing.com/AB1605000/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Product_ID=84&C ATID=14 (may have to cut and paste to fix the link) "Use common 12 gram air gun type (as long as they are not marked ('not for human consumption') C02 cartridges (3 to 5 per keg) to dispense beer." Seems pretty portable to me. that and a 3 gallon keg, and you have a pretty compact unit. I might go that way for my portable problems mentioned in earlier mails. badger Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 06:38:51 -0500 From: John Wilkinson <jandjwilkins at earthlink.net> Subject: Adjustable malt mills I will toss my opinion into the discussion of adjustable malt mills. My first mill was a Valley, which is adjustable. At the time I was trying to decide between it and a JSP. I thought the adjustable feature a plus and as that made the JSP considerably more expensive, I bought the Valley. After several years use, during which time I tried various adjustments and tried double crushes as Dave Houseman suggests, I decided a single setting and a single crush did as well as anything. When the Valley finally wore out I bought a non-adjustable JSP and have not regretted it. That is not to knock the Valley, it is a fine mill and I certainly got my money's worth from it. They are also very nice people to deal with. So is Jack Schmidling, producer of the JSP. John Wilkinson Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 07:56:08 -0400 From: Darrell.Leavitt at esc.edu Subject: aeration..and foam I have been aerating with an aquarium pump...and the ss aeration wand . The problem that I am finding is that if I place the wort into the carboy...and then aerate, that it foams out of the top within a couple of minutes. If I try to aerate in the kettle (5 gal batches..in 10 gal Polarware lauter/kettle) then it goes better,...but even more than 5 minutes of aeration leads to HEAPS of foam...and again the carboy is rapidly filled with foam... What do others do to reduce the foam when aerating..? ..Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 08:59:10 -0300 From: "Jamie Smith" <jxsmith at vac-acc.gc.ca> Subject: Re: Ball lock -> pin lock? > Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 17:53:29 > From: "Drew Avis" <andrew_avis at hotmail.com> >Subject: Ball lock -> pin lock? >Folks: I have a line on some nice ball-lock kegs. The problem is, my > system is currently pin-lock. Are the theads on the two types of kegs > compatible? > IE could I just take off the ball-lock fittings & replace them w/ pin-lock, > or do I need to get new ball-lock fittings for CO2 in and beer out? >Thanks in advance for any info you have, >Drew Avis, Merrickville, Ontario >Visit Strange Brew: http://www.strangebrew.ca Drew - it's been my experience in my set up that the threads aren't the problem, but rather the design of the kegs themselves that prevent swapping fittings between the ball- and pin- lock kegs. Specifically, the shape of the kegs where the fittings attach are just different enough to prevent a seal. I also note that very few of my kegs are exactly the same (10-15 kegs, all different styles) so YMMV. Jamie on PEI Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 08:05:41 -0400 (EDT) From: "Alan McKay" <amckay at ottawa.com> Subject: hop back Scott, My mason-jar hop back can be seen at http://www.bodensatz.com/homebrew/gadgets/hop-back.html Though I've changed the design somewhat from what is show there (and really should get off my lazy ass to update the page). Now instead of the hose barbs I have taken lengths of 3/8 copper tubing and soldered it into the lid. One long length for "wort in" goes right to the bottom of the jar, and the shorter length is about the length of the hose barbs, and it gets the scrubbie attached to it. I also use plumbers tape to help keep it air tight. Works like a charm! cheers, -Alan - -- "Brewers make wort. Yeast makes beer." - Dave Miller http://www.bodensatz.com/ What's a Bodensatz? http://www.bodensatz.com/bodensatz.html Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 08:12:39 -0400 (EDT) From: "Alan McKay" <amckay at ottawa.com> Subject: pumpkin ale Bob said : > First, you GOT TO mash the pumpkin along with the malt. So > you must do an all-grain mash. Though the rest of Bob's advice is sound and should be heeded if you do take the all-grain route, the above is only partially true. Yes, the pumpkin MUST be mashed, but another option for extract brewers is to mash the pumpkin alone in a pot with purchased powdered enzyme, then when you are sure it is converted add it to the end of your boil. I've done this with great success. cheers, -Alan - -- "Brewers make wort. Yeast makes beer." - Dave Miller http://www.bodensatz.com/ What's a Bodensatz? http://www.bodensatz.com/bodensatz.html Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 11:22:13 -0400 From: "Eric R. Theiner" <logic at skantech.com> Subject: Five Star Site For those concerned over the availability of the Five Star website, here is an excerpt from a recent email from Charlie Talley (of Five Star): "We were working on the [site] when our [server] went out of business. Getting the rights back has been interesting." So try 'em again-- they should be up now. Rick Theiner LOGIC, Inc. (competitor of Five Star-- what a nice guy I am, eh?) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 09:51:24 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net> Subject: Re: esters Steve Alexander <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> wrote: >Soap is saponified FAs and glycerol. I don't think this is quite precise (the rest of Steve's post is beyond my knowledge, but very interesting, and has more application to beer than this post). Soap is chemically only saponified fatty acids. However, a *bar* of soap might include glycerol (glycerin), as this is a part of fats (fats and oils are trigycerides, i.e., a fatty acid molecule plus three glycerol molecules). Much (most?) commercial soap is made from deglycerated fats or (less commonly), has the glycerol removed after saponification. The glycerol is removed in part because it has economic value and in part because it is more or less dead weight in soap and makes the soap softer, although it also seems to make soap less drying. Another of my hobbies is soap making. I typically use ~2:1 olive oil:coconut oil for the fat source, and use the cold-process saponification method, which leaves the glycerol in the soap. The hot-process saponification method boils the soap with salt (NaCl), which separates the glycerol from the pure soap. I've never done this, but it is a common process in less industrialized countries. Industrialized countries use the purified SA as the raw material. I worked for Proctor & Gamble back in the sixties, and when I wasn't packaging up satanic materials, I made soap in a pilot plant. For most formulae, we used purified FAs (no glycerol) and NaOH. Some fatty acids were even somewhat purified as to chain length (oleic, palmitic, stearic acids), although this wasn't done, to my knowledge, for production soaps. >The vegetable oil, olive oil on your cupboard are good examples of >almost pure fatty acids. Again, I don't think this is quite precise. They are good examples of almost pure *triglycerides*. None of this will help you make better beer. Cheers, Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 10:18:25 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net> Subject: O2 permeability stencil <stencil at bcn.net> srites of plastic bottles writes (or perhaps sends): >For all that, I'm dubious that very many >O2 molecules at 3psi partial pressure will wade upstream >against ca. 25psig CO2 in the bottle... YMMV. This is a subject that comes up every few years. While this may seem intuitively logical, partial pressures don't work like that. There is no "upstream" for the O2 molecules. They "ignore" all gases except O2. Since there is (presumably) no O2 inside, and there is 3 psi partial pressure outide, they will migrate across the semi-permeable plastic. As Stencil writes, don't use plastic for archive beer. It should work for quick drinking beer. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 11:10:44 -0400 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at att.net> Subject: re: fatty acids Whew - what was I thinking ? I really should get some sleep every 48 hours or so. My side note about examples of fatty acids is very wrong. Vegetable oils, like animal fats and the stuff around my midriff are intact triglycerides. That is three fatty acids with an esteric bond to a glycerol. Not an example of free fatty acids. Soap OTOH is made from fat or oil that undergoes saponification. Sodium or potassium hydroxide is added to the triglyceride which breaks the esteric bonds yielding free glycerol, but the fatty acids immediately has it's carboxylic end converted to a sodium or potassium carboxylate salt rather than a free long chain carboxylic acid (FA). So soap is glycerol and salts of FAs - not a good example either. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 11:38:53 -0400 From: "John Elsworth" <jdelsworth at hotmail.com> Subject: Bass Taste(s) There have been a few posts recently about brewing a Bass clone, and how close a particular recipe might be to the real thing. However, I have found that the flavor(s) of Bass is not that consistent, and I wonder what people are trying to model. Even when living in England, I was struck by the variability between pints of Bass. I know different batches of beer will be different, but this variability was more than for other beers (at least to my taste buds). Some pubs seemed to serve better pints than others (but that could have been coincidence). The absolute best pint I had was at the Bass brewery a few years ago... wonderful, and not really like the Bass we ever get in the U.S. John Elsworth Hamden, CT Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 20:41:48 -0500 From: "Sean Richens" <srichens at sprint.ca> Subject: bottling in PET Us Canajuns like these. Just to prove we're not as cheap as Northern Brewers are often thought to be, we usually toss out the caps and buy new ones for a couple of bucks a dozen. This is acceptable for 1 Litre bottles but gets a bit costly for the 600 mL size. The worry about re-using the caps is that something attractive to the nasties could reside between the liner and the cap. Before I became a homebrewer the liners were sold in some LHBS, but I've never seen them. If you are really hard up in Japan you can carefully extract the liners and wash them separately from the caps but you will have to replace any that you damage. Maybe you could make sake. Skullsplitter of a hangover, but tastes good. Sean Richens srichens.spamsucks at sprint.ca Return to table of contents
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