HOMEBREW Digest #3732 Tue 11 September 2001

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org


          Northern  Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
        http://www.northernbrewer.com  1-800-681-2739

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

  Re: Over-carbonated Bottle Cure...? (Ant Hayes)
  re: yeast farming ("Stephen Alexander")
  Re: Beer in Fort Worth (Steven S)
  Irishgebot? (Ant Hayes)
  Re: Bench Capper Survey ("Zemo")
  chapeau de botteille (Pat Babcock)
  Pumpkin ("David Craft")
  Brew on Premise ("David Craft")
  Re: Over-carbonated Bottle Cure...? (Jeff Renner)
  Re: hop back ("Houseman, David L")
  white film ("Alan McKay")
  Bench Cappers (Len Safhay)
  Bench Capper Survey ("John Zeller")
  Plastic hose troubles ("John Zeller")
  Fridge Question ("Jeffrey L. Calton")
  Slow Wort Priming (Troy Hager)
  Capper Survey (Richard Foote)
  Re: Plastic hose troubles ("RJ")
  Kettle manifold/pick-up tube options? (RiedelD)
  Braggot Recipe ("Hertz, Jeffrey")
  Brew Pot upgrade ("Hedglin, Nils A")
  RIMS question ("Charles W. Beaver")
  Kinda off topic but about converting starch ot sugar ("Pete Calinski")
  Mashing practices: request for techniques (Daron Kallan)
  Re: aeration and foaming (Martin_Brungard)
  Over-carbonated Bottle Cure...? ("2brewers4u")
  re: overcarbonated bottles (Jeff & Ellen)
  Kegs & Coffee ("Charles R. Stewart")

* * Show your HBD pride! Wear an HBD Badge! * http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 09:30:56 +0200 From: Ant Hayes <Ant.Hayes at FifthQuadrant.co.za> Subject: Re: Over-carbonated Bottle Cure...? Todd Bissell wrote "I have a rather tasty Porter bottled, with one *slight* problem: WAY TOO MUCH carbonation. Is there anything I can do to fix this? " I normally bottle for drinking after 6 to 10 weeks - but sometimes a bottle sits for a couple of months and gets over carbonated. My test is to take a bottle opener and gently lift one side of the crown cap, just enough to let out some of the gas. An over carbonated bottle will normally start gushing quickly. I then vent in the morning and evening for a few days until the bottle stops gushing - by which time the carbonation is normally about right. Ant Hayes Gauteng; South Africa Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 05:53:53 -0400 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at att.net> Subject: re: yeast farming I*'m coming in in the middle of this one but ... Scott Thomas wrote ... >Carlos, >Your on the right track, but you might want to modify a few of your >protocols: >1.For a 750ml starter, use 65-70g of DME. > (not sure what a half cup weighs?), (as I'm sure it can vary depending on >how tightly or loosely you pack it.) >Try to match your S.G. of the wort to the starting gravity to your starter. I used to think this also - that matching starter SG with wort SG was a good idea - but yeast don't acclimate themselves to the extra osmotic pressure, the higher CO2 levels, the lower O2 or higher alcohol levels that come with higher gravity wort. Nothing wrong with the ~10P wort above, but I'd suggest ~8P, and never make a starter wort above 12P - that's just torturing the yeast. >2. I would suggest that you boil the DME in an Erlenmeyer Flask, and crash >cool it (ice water bath), ASAP to 70*F- 75*F., [...] , keep it as >close to 75* F as possible, and within 12 -24 hours, Yeast do acclimate to fermentation temperature. 75F is OK for an ale yeast tho' a bit high. For optimal growth rate you want an even higher temperature than 75F. If you are looking for healthy yeast instead of speed grow your starters cooler and slower. Yeast accumulate significantly more UFAs in cooler conditions (given oxygen) and these UFAs are very important later as an anaerobic growth factor, for healthy membranes, lower ester production, higher alcohol tolerance and less susceptibility to cold shock. 60F isn't too cold for an ale yeast starter but it won't ferment out in 12-24hrs either. >you should be ready to >pitch to your primary. (Assuming you are doing 5-10 gallon batches.) Unless I missed something, a 750ml starter is inadequate for pitching a 5 or 10gal batch. Without resorting to viable cell counts, starter size for ales runs around 10% of the primary volume for normal gravity ales, more for lagers. proportionately more for higher gravity worts. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 06:32:20 -0400 (EDT) From: Steven S <steven at 403forbidden.net> Subject: Re: Beer in Fort Worth If you do not mind the microbrew/eatery I would highly recommend Humperdinks.. http://www.theram.com/humperdinks/ The closest one is probably the Northwest Hwy location, a little drive but worth it. I highly recommend the Hefe but the Total Disorder Porter will definatly hit the spot. Steven St.Laurent ::: steven at 403forbidden.net ::: 403forbidden.net Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 13:11:45 +0200 From: Ant Hayes <Ant.Hayes at FifthQuadrant.co.za> Subject: Irishgebot? The following is an extract from today's Business Day (South Africa) regarding a tie up between Guinness UDV and Namibian Breweries: (MD Gary) "May said that Guinness was a traditional beer that used only malted barley, yeast and hops - in the style of "Rheinheitsgebot" or Germany's purity law for beer brewing. This is a style that is also used by Namibian Breweries, which makes it well-equipped to meet Guinness's requirements." Gary May is MD of Guinness UDV. Does anyone know how Guinness get that roast barley taste using malted barley? Ant Hayes Gauteng; South Africa Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 06:44:56 -0500 From: "Zemo" <zemo at buyvictory.com> Subject: Re: Bench Capper Survey Dan Listermann (Kudos for the mini-keg article in Zymurgy) asks: >What kind of capper do you use? I have three bench cappers: one each size of those red plastic Italian jobs (one will cork) and a metal one that has the capping mechanism that adjusts infinitely on a post. >What would you like to see in a new bench capper design? Something that holds the cap well. I hate having to race the foam when I'm solo CPFing. >How much would be too much to consider? $30 My $.02. Zemo Ordinary Average Brewer Batavia, IL Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 08:18:14 -0400 (EDT) From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: chapeau de botteille Greetings, Beerlings! Take me top your lager... Dan asks: > What kind of capper do you use? One of those Italian slide-lock, infinitely ajustable jobs, and a couple of wing cappers in case of emergency. > What would you like to see in a new bench capper design? Get rid of the height adjustments required when you hit those stray, just-taller-or-shorter-enough-to-mean-you-must-move-the- capper-head bottles when bottling away. I invision a design where the entire operation, no matter what the size of the bottle, fits within the stroke of the lever. I see a system where the capper simply descends to the bottle, hits the top and then compresses the cap on, whether a split or a bomber - or anything in between - without my having to release, the slide, adjust, then cap. An integral spring which is not stronger than the bottle, but has enough force for the capping operation could make this possible. So could a slide that doesn't latch until it is set by an opposing force (and releases once that force is relieved). Hmmm... A superior means of centering the bottle, too, would be a boon. Can't use the base as they vary; however the neck at the top is usually pretty close to the same, bottle to bottle. A deep lead-in on the bell can help, too, but it must leave enough room top rock the bottle to release it after capping (mine are constantly caught in the bell). (Or how about integrating a CP filler and a capper into one unit?) > How much would be too much to consider? Too much is never enough. Well, maybe from the seller's perspective. Less than $50 definitely; less than $35 highlky desirable. - -- - See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock "The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged from my yeast lab Saturday Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 08:42:29 -0400 From: "David Craft" <David-Craft at craftinsurance.com> Subject: Pumpkin Hello, I plan on making my pumpkin ale next weekend. I have made it previously using extract with grains and just dumping canned pumpkin in the boil and heavily dosing with Irish Moss. This turned out fine as most of the flavor comes from the spices..... However I have a pumpkin vine in the backyard with five nice specimens and I now brew all grain. I was thinking about cooking the pumpkin halves, scooping out the meat, pulverizing, and mashing on the stove in pot with some grains (for enzymes), adding a liberal dose of Irish Moss, cooling, separate the trub, then adding to my boil after doing my normal mash with my grain. Any thoughts on this.......I just want to avoid a stuck mash. I do not have any rice hulls and probably can't get them in time. Do health food stores sell rice hulls? After reading what other people have done, dealing with pumpkin is certainly a challenge! David B. Craft Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 08:52:15 -0400 From: "David Craft" <David-Craft at craftinsurance.com> Subject: Brew on Premise I am curious how any laws, Federal or State (NC), regard Brew On Premises? I have been thinking, long range 5 years, about opening a brewing store with Brewing on Premises for customers. I understand I cannot brew beer for sale under any circumstances, but can customers brew on site and take home for personal consumption. Can I brew on site for myself and offer beers to customers? Anyone have any experince with this? David B. Craft Greensboro, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 09:05:36 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net> Subject: Re: Over-carbonated Bottle Cure...? Todd Bissell <tbissell at spawar.navy.mil> of Imperial Beach, CA (come on, youse other guys, you're forgetting to include where you're from!) wrote: >The porter is tasty, but the carbonation is so heavy (I'm surprised none of >the bottles haven't blown up!) that it makes it rather undrinkable. Any and >all ideas are welcome...! It's simple - pour the bottle into a pitcher, let it settle down, then pour it into your glass. If it's still to carbonated, you may want to use a "pocket beer engine" (a syringe - see archives). Way back in the 70's when I was a fairly new brewer, I often noticed that a blend of several styles of beer would taste better than any one of them by itself and was puzzled until I realized that I was combining several bottles in a pitcher, thereby decarbonating the beer. The result was far smoother. This is of course one part of the secret of real ale, and the reason for the pocket beer engine as well. Most beer tastes smoother with less fizz. Leave that for Coke. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 08:39:49 -0500 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: Re: hop back I think that using a false bottom in a hopback is losing the point of the hopback. You want the hot wort to be in contact with the hops long enough to transfer the aromatics but not too long as to evaporate them or to absorb bittering acids. Usually in a hopback one injects the wort at the bottom, to prevent splashing and takes the wort out of the top, having been filtered through the hops. If you're using a false bottom you'll end up having to somehow distribute the hot wort over the hops, risking aeration and the contact time may be quite brief since the wort just then flows out the bottom. Plug the outlet and let the container fill first then empty and fill at the same time solves these problems but then why not just put the hops into the kettle with a false bottom at knockout and accomplish the same thing? Dave Houseman - --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 08:41:57 -0400 From: "RJ" <wortsup at metrocast.net> Subject: Re: hop back Scott (& -Alan) Another great way to make a hopback is to use a partial-masher's lauter tun, they hold about a gallon (liquid) have a false bottom and all you need to add is a small drilled hole in the top cover to all the wort to flow into it. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 09:51:27 -0400 (EDT) From: "Alan McKay" <amckay at ottawa.com> Subject: white film Todd, That ultra-thin white film sounds a lot like a lacto-bacillus (sp?) infection. This bacteria is great in sauerkraut or fermented dills, but you do not want it in your beer! If you have a big enough pot it may not be too late to pasteurize the thing. Rack it into the pot, bring to 170F, then cool and rack it back to a sanitized carboy. I've saved a few beers and meads this way. In fact, I just pasteurized a mead on the weekend. Stupid me had my pickles fermenting next to it and even though my mead was sealed, somehow the L-B got in there but I caught it early enough that it was not detectable taste wise. Though if the whole surface is covered I think it is too late. Taste it to see. The problem could very well be in your tap water - perhaps you should have it checked. Of course, if it is highly chlorinated then I dunno. I use plastic hoses and have no problems at all in my brewery. I sanitize with iodophor or chlorine bleach. Perhaps you are due for a complete review of your brewery and procedures to track down the problem. How long do you soak in your sanitizer? etc, etc, etc. A few years ago I had a few bad batches which I eventually traced to too-short of soak times in my sanitizer. So I tossed out ALL my plastic components and increased my soak times, and until this weekend have never had a bad batch since. cheers, -Alan - -- "Brewers make wort. Yeast makes beer." - Dave Miller http://www.bodensatz.com/ What's a Bodensatz? http://www.bodensatz.com/bodensatz.html Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 10:18:44 -0400 From: Len Safhay <cloozoe at optonline.net> Subject: Bench Cappers Re: Dan Listermann's query, I use a standard, cheapo Italian bench capper for which I paid under 20 bucks. Adjustable, but not automatically adaptable to different height bottles. Things "wrong" with it: Small margin for setting proper height, i.e. an inch down is too low, an inch up is too high. Pressure of applying caps gradually pushes it out of adjustment. Very unstable if not mounted to a bench, which is impracticle in my case. Caps sometimes stick Don't know what I'd pay for a much better one. It's always going to be a PITA no matter how you slice it, primarily because you must place each cap on each bottle. Now if you could come up with a design at a reasonable cost that allowed you to load the caps into the capper eliminating the need to place them carefully on each individual bottle, in addition to addressing the above, that would be really worthwhile.. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 07:24:07 -0700 From: "John Zeller" <jwz_sd at hotmail.com> Subject: Bench Capper Survey On Sept. 9th Dan Listermann asks the following: What kind of capper do you use? What would you like to see in a new bench capper design? How much would be too much to consider? 1. I have the Italian self adjusting model which I am very pleased with. I think I paid about $30.00 for it. 2. a. A magazine to load the caps automatically b. SS in lieu of plated metal c. possibly motorized 3. $50 would be my limit. I really don't think I need more than the one I have, so this would be more of a novelty than a necessity. Hope this helps some. What we really need is an improved version of the mini kegs that would allow forced carbonation and easy cleaning at a reasonable price. John Z. Cincinnati, Ohio Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 07:36:10 -0700 From: "John Zeller" <jwz_sd at hotmail.com> Subject: Plastic hose troubles On Sept. 9th Todd Bissell wrote: "I've had two batches as of late get infected" (snip) Todd, I am not totally convinced that you have an infection in either batch. You do not describe the problem for the first one, so I cannot help with that one, but you mention a thin white film on the surface of the second batch. This film may not be an infection, but instead simply a byproduct of the fermentation. Don't leap to the conclusion that the batch is bad until you taste it. I would sample it right now to see if there are any off flavors or smells. If not, proceed normally and the beer will likely be OK. My preferred method of keeping the vinyl hoses clean and sanitized is to flush them with dishwashing liquid/water solution. Usually just siphon some through the hoses then flush with hot water. For sanitizing and storage I keep them completely submerged in bleach/water sanitizer until the next use. I coil them up in a plastic bucket and keep the lid on it while storing. Then simply rinse with hot water before the next use. The trick is to never let them dry out. My hoses look almost like new after nearly two years of use. I haven't had any infection problems so far. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 08:42:54 -0700 From: "Jeffrey L. Calton" <calton at csus.edu> Subject: Fridge Question Greetings, Because I'm only a casual reader of the Digest, this question might have been asked before, so let me apologize in advance if that's the case. I'm currently using a small Kenmore refrigerator for lager fermentation. This is a half-sized model, larger than the small cubicle dorm fridges, but much smaller than a regular sized refrigerator. This model has the small freezer compartment at the top, which is essentially a "cold plate" that enters through the top at the back. After taking out the walls of the freezer part, and bending the cold plate out of the way, my plastic bucket fermenter will just barely fit inside the fridge. However, I would have a lot more room if I could completely disconnect the cold plate and remove it. Is it possible to do this without losing all the freon? On the other hand, if the cold plate can be removed and the unit then recharged with freon, that might be acceptable as well. Thanks, Jeff Calton Sacramento, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 09:51:15 -0700 From: Troy Hager <thager at hcsd.k12.ca.us> Subject: Slow Wort Priming On my last batch of pale ale (OG: 1055 FG: 1010) I tried wort priming in the keg as talked about here in the digest a month ago or so. The beer was in the fermentor for a couple weeks and had dropped very bright. I racked it to a purged keg and then added about 1.5 qts. of wort that I had canned after the boil. At this point, the beer tasted very clean and excellent and the wort smelled and tasted great too. This beer had been dry hopped (1oz of Cascade) and had a great hop nose and hop flavor. After racking to the keg, I purged the headspace and put about 2-4 psi on the keg to seal the lid. I then placed it in my basement (65-68F) and let it sit. Let me say, I am meticulous about sanitization. Everything was hand scrubbed with TSP and rinsed well. Lid and fittings were pressure cooked. Everything was soaked in StarSan for at least 10 minutes. I rigged up a gas pressure gauge on a keg gas-out disconnect so I could monitor the pressure build up - i.e. priming fermentation. At first I left the gauge attached to the keg but after a few days I was afraid of leaks so disconnected it after I checked the pressure each time. I waited... 2 days, no pressure. 3 days, no pressure. Maybe the basement was too cold. I moved the keg to the garage at about 70F. 5 days, no pressure!!! I began to wonder if it would ever prime. Anyway, at about day 6-7, I saw the pressure start to build and it did so for the next 4-5 days up to about 15psi. It increased about 2-3psi/day and when I saw that it was not increasing, I took a sample, agitated the CO2 out of it and checked the sg - 1010. I then placed it in the fridge to settle out. When I tasted it after about 5 days in the fridge, it was still somewhat hazy and did not taste clean at all. There was a bit of yeast flavor in there and some fruity/apply flavors that I did not like as well. Also, it had picked up a sweet/worty flavor that was not there before - tasted a little underattenuated - even though FG read about the same as it had at the hop aroma and just a little sweet fruity malt aroma if anything. Also the smooth hop flavor was not apparent. Hop flavor and bitterness had taken on a slight edge of harshness that I don't like at all. Bottom line - very different than the pre-primed sample and not nearly as good. Carbonation was very nice though - fine bubbles that actually cascade a bit (like Guinness) and very different than what I get when I force carbonate. So, my questions are: Why did it take sooooo long to ferment after I added the priming wort? Have others had this experience? My guess is that there was very little yeast left in the beer and it took them a long time to get going... but a whole week? That seems extreme. Also, any ideas in the change of flavor? I am going to let it sit for another week or two to settle out and stablize, is this standard procedure after priming... that it does need another period of conditioning for it to come together...? Also, what happened to my hop aroma. It totally disappeared after priming. This is the first time I have tried wort priming (I usually force carbonate) and so far, I am not impressed. Troy Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 14:01:09 -0400 From: Richard Foote <rfoote at mindspring.com> Subject: Capper Survey Dan the man Listerman ... er ... mann asks for input on cappers... My favorite bench capper is an old one too. I bought it at an auction. It was advertised as a wine corker, but I knew better. Maybe it was advertised as a "wine corker" because back when I bought it, (pre '93) home brewing was illegal in GA. The capper head was simply turned upside down. My scrounge instincts told me that under all that rust (which is still has plenty of, BTW) was a beaut of a HB capper. Turn the sucker around and viola! Or is that voila? Anyway, it has a gear mechanism that is self-adjusting within its range of motion to various bottle heights. It has opposing wooden handles configured like a big wing nut, if you will, to raise and lower the capper head. A couple revolutions up and a couple down and you've capped a bottle. IMHO, it's far more convenient than those big plastic jobs with the adjustable plates under the bottle costing way too much. The head of the capper is not magnetic, which is fine. I find that gravity works fine for keeping the caps on the bottle tops prior to bring'in er home. My 2 cents. Hope this helps. Rick Foote Whistle Pig Brewing Murrayville, GA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 14:12:57 -0400 From: "RJ" <wortsup at metrocast.net> Subject: Re: Plastic hose troubles "Bissell, Todd S" <tbissell at spawar.navy.mil> wrote: " <snip> Assuming that I chuck these hoses and buy new ones, how do I keep them clean and sanitized...? Obviously using tap water is not cutting it. Anyone have any ideas how I can use boiling water, or at least bottled water (the same brand I use for brewing, I'm thinking), to keep things nice and clean over time...?" Todd, A simple method is to place them into a lagre jar filled with hydrogen peroide. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 11:27:26 -0700 From: RiedelD at pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca Subject: Kettle manifold/pick-up tube options? I've discovered that the manifold in my boil kettle has been collecting nasty black flakey stuff. It unfortunately decided to send it out through the valve and into my CF chiller on the weekend. (I'm hoping it was all well, and truly dead, and that my beer is not ruined) In any case, I've never thought the manifold (slotted copper around the outside edge of the kettle bottom) was all that great, so I'm considering changing it. Any thoughts on preferred methods? I was thinking of a shorter piece of that SS braided plumbing stuff; maybe 8-10" long, angled down and to the side of the kettle? What's the consensus (other than a false bottom)? cheers, Dave Victoria, Can. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 14:16:45 -0500 From: "Hertz, Jeffrey" <Jeffrey.Hertz at nuveen.com> Subject: Braggot Recipe I was thinking of doing a braggot-my first-and was looking for recipe advice. I'll probably just use extract, so I can keep it simple. My main questions are: 1) Do I need to boil the honey or just add it at the end of my wort boil? 2) Do people usually hop the wort at all or just minimally for the preservative benefits? 3) What type of yeast to use? I was thinking a sweet mead, but maybe a alchohol tolerant ale yeast for something a little less dry?? Thanks in advance, Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 13:09:48 -0700 From: "Hedglin, Nils A" <nils.a.hedglin at intel.com> Subject: Brew Pot upgrade Hi, My wonderful wife is buying me a larger brewpot as an anniversary present & I'm trying to decide what type I want. So here are my questions: 1) Stainless steel vs aluminum. I know there has been a lot of debate about adverse affects of using aluminum, but from what I've read, it seems there are no real issues with it. 2) Heat distibution. We saw 2 different versions of PolarWare at the restaurant supply stores we went to. There was the plain kind, & the HeatRite with the aluminum layer in the bottom for better distribution of heat. We've also seen the copper bottom pots. Since the wort can flow freely around in the pot, is there really the concern with burning that would justify the aluminum or copper bottoms? 3) 20 gauge vs 18 gauge. I know the 20 gauge is thinner, but for all pratical brewing purposes, is there really a difference? 4) Size. For now, I'm only planning on doing 5 gallon all-grain batches so a 7.5 gallon pot sounds good to me. But if I ever want to attempt step mashes, wouldn't I want something bigger to be able to do the mash in? 5) Finally, a spigot. I know this is a real nice feature, but I'd like to keep it under $150 & most of the pots we've seen under that price with spigots end up having something else wrong (no handles, etc). Since I can do the same thing with a racking cane & hose, & since I already have a separate mash/lauter tun, it may not seem worth it to get a spigot that will only be used when I'm racking from the pot to the carboy after the boil. Any comments? Thanks in advance, Nils Hedglin Sacramento, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 15:38:01 -0500 From: "Charles W. Beaver" <cbeav at netnitco.net> Subject: RIMS question With the recent resurgence in the RIMS thread, I decided to automate my RIMS system. I had been running a manual RIMS meaning that I was recirculating, but would kick on the burner periodically to apply a little heat to maintain mash temp. I already had the controller and just needed to add the heater. I used a 4500 W (wired to 110v) heater in line and found that even with full time hearing the temp drifted down. I am mashing 28 lb of grain in 7.7 gall of water. Questions - How can I tell if I need more heater power or greater flow. I estimate that I am pumping about 2 liters / minute. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 17:10:22 -0400 From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net> Subject: Kinda off topic but about converting starch ot sugar Traffic is slow right now so I thought I would post this: - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- GENETIC VARIATION IS THE SPICE OF LIFE commentary from The Los Angeles Times The other day (you know, just during the normal flow of conversation) my mom informed me that her saliva is highly unusual. Back in college, she reminisced, she did this experiment that involved spitting into a tube then testing (using a chemical color change) to see if her spit could turn starch into sugar. Normal spit can: It contains an enzyme amylase) that begins the digestion of starch way up in our mouths. "But as there wasn't any in my spit," said my mom, "it never turned anything any color whatsoever." Wow! Could it be that my mother is an unusual genetic variant? Could this be a trait that runs in our family? To find out if such folks are known to science, I Checked with a veritable treasure trove of such variations--put together by a pioneer in human genetics research, Dr. Victor McKusick. The database, known as the Online Mendelian Inheritance in Man (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/Omim), lists oodles of human traits (and disorders) caused by differences in certain genes. <http://www.latimes.com/news/science/la-000073026sep10.column?coll=la%2Dnews %2Dscience> >From Sigma Xi, The Scientific Research Society. - -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY *********************************************************** *My goal: * Go through life and never drink the same beer twice. * (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.) *********************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 15:08:11 -0700 From: Daron Kallan <dkallan at yahoo.com> Subject: Mashing practices: request for techniques Fellow Homebrewers, I have been all-grain brewing for about a half-year now, with pretty good success actually. Ultimately, however, I have come across situations and have had questions that I cannot find documented in any of the major references. I know that many brewers have different beliefs about mashing practices, but I would be interested to get a consensus on what may be the best practices for my situation. The Mash ======== I usually perform my mashing in a 40-quart kettle with a stainless steel false bottom and an insulated mash jacket. To help filter out grain particles, I have also tried placing one of those stainless steel screen tubes (EasyMash?) under the false bottom; I attach the screen to high-temperature silicone tubing that I squeeze directly into the ball valve exiting the bottom of the kettle/tun. So far, I have had very good extraction. My questions come down to technique, and here I would like to tap your collective vast experience: 1a) When mashing in, is it better to add the grain first and the strike water second, or to add the strike water first and the grain second? I have seen instructions to do it both ways. So far, I seem to prefer the second option when kettle-mashing because of the ease of controlling the strike water temperature and the minimized thermal mass. 1b) Is it best to add the (grain/strike water) to the (strike water/grains) all at once, before stirring, or in small increments while stirring? 2a) Because I use a false bottom, there is a lot of space below the false bottom where the grist cannot go but water can -- a gallon or more, perhaps. It tends to sit under the false bottom, buffer the temperature (particularly when direct-heating), and not significantly add water to the mash. Whether adding the strike water before or after the grains, I often result with a too-dry mash, and the addition of more water throws off my subsequent infusion temperature calculations. If I fill the space with water before mashing, I can end up with a too-thin mash. In calculating my strike water/grain ratio (say, 1 qt/lb), should this be included in the calculations? Or, more simply, should I fill or partially fill the bottom of the kettle/tun up to the false bottom with extra water before doing anything else? 2b) If the answer is yes to 2a, how do you compensate for subsequent infusion temperatures to include this extra volume of water? 3) Using a kettle as a mash-tun, it is often difficult to control the mash temperature when direct-heating. The bottom of the mash (or the water below the false bottom) will get hot, while the top and middle (where the thermometer is) will stay cool -- or the temperature may sneak up on me after a long, long wait. To better control the temperature differential, I have started draining the warmer, bottom mash water through the bottom of the kettle/tun into a pyrex container, then mixing the runnings back into the top of the mash. If the burner is turned on (low heat), the circulation of the mash water through the bottom of the kettle seems almost like a crude RIMS system. For fear of hot-side aeration, I am careful to minimize splashing, but some splashing is ua\navoidable, and *any* motion of hot mash or wort worries me. Is this a good system or is there a better way to control mash temperature in such a configuration? 4) In sparging, I have one of those spinning sparge arms to sprinke the sparge water over the grain bed. In doing so, I have often wondered if this also creates a risk of hot-side aeration. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance for your input, Daron El Dorado Hills, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 18:17:30 -0400 From: Martin_Brungard at urscorp.com Subject: Re: aeration and foaming The recent mentions of excess foaming during 02 aeration have caught my attention. I can bring my wastewater treatment experience to bear here. As you may know, aeration is a major component of most modern wastewater treatment processes. Oxygen transfer is the major goal, but mixing of the wastewater is an important minor aspect. There are several variables at work that determine the amount of oxygen transfer in a process. The "fineness" of the bubbles and the depth of the aerators are the most important physical features. Fine bubble diffusers are more efficient at promoting oxygen transfer to the water column. Increasing the aerator depth also improves the transfer efficiency. There are a couple of things to learn from the wastewater aerator design. Using a fine pore diffuser and setting the diffuser at the bottom of the fermenter are the most efficient. The other thing to consider is that the mixing function of the aeration process in wastewater systems is NOT needed when aerating wort. When using a fine bubble diffuser, the air flow rate needs to be LOW. This promotes the formation of small bubbles. If the air flow rate is too high, the bubbles coalesce into larger bubbles, reducing the transfer efficiency. The other consequence of blowing the oxygen in too fast is that the wort will foam profusely from all the bubbles. I've been using an oxygen system for about a year and a half. That's about (15) 5-gallon batches. I just ran out of my first bottle of oxygen, its one of the little red bottles that go with those propane bottles from Home Depot. I have been getting explosive ferments since I started using oxygen. I recommend that you consider the recommendations in the two paragraphs above, keep the flow rate LOW when aerating. You actually improve the transfer efficiency, use less oxygen, and create less foam. I have spoken with some brewers who think that you can't regulate the flow from the regulators that come with these little oxygenator systems. I can attest that you can regulate the flow to a minor trickle from the stone. I carefully open the valve until I see a slight surfacing of bubbles in the fermenter. Then too further enhance the residence time of the bubbles, I swirl the fermenter to get the bubbles to swirl around the wort instead of rising vertically. That gives the bubbles more time to be submerged in the wort. I find that I have to continue to open the valve a little bit as I go on. I end up supplying oxygen for about 2 to 3 minutes at this low flow rate. As I mentioned above, my results suggest that I am getting an adequate transfer. So for those of you that just crank up the oxygen and let it boil, you are probably wasting oxygen and causing excess foaming. Try this more gentle application. Martin Brungard Tallahassee, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 18:45:40 -0500 From: "2brewers4u" <2brewers4u at home.com> Subject: Over-carbonated Bottle Cure...? Cool to damn near freezing before serving..~34 degrees, open slowly and warm in the glass Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 20:55:12 -0400 From: Jeff & Ellen <JeffNGladish at ij.net> Subject: re: overcarbonated bottles Todd Bissell wrote that he had some bottled porter that was way too carbonated. I solved a problem with one of my beers once that was over-primed, but not infected. It took a little experimenting, but I put one or two bottles in the freezer for about 30 minutes, then, after they were almost frozen, uncapped them and let them slowly foam over for about twenty minutes in a bowl on the kitchen counter, and recapped them. After letting them cool down to drinking temperature, I sampled them for appropriate carbonation. It worked really well, but I did have to work on the foam-over time with more than one or two bottles. I hope this helps save a batch of Porter. It saved a really nice Rauchbier for me once. Jeff Gladish, Tampa, Florida Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 22:51:19 -0400 From: "Charles R. Stewart" <Charles at TheStewarts.com> Subject: Kegs & Coffee Pete - If it's any help, I just received a couple dozen 2.5 gal. ball lock kegs. At only 13 inches tall, they're only 3 inches taller than a gallon of milk - they fit fine on the top shelf of my fridge (I could fit 4 or 5 up there, if we didn't have all that damned food, but I guess you have to have something to wash down with beer). From what I understand, they're pretty rare, so first come. . . . And as always, $2 from each keg goes to the server fund if you identify yourself as a HBD member. Just order a 3 gal. keg from my web site (http://Charles.TheStewarts.com) and either specify a 2.5 in the notes section, or else send me a separate e-mail. >On Sat, 8 Sep, Pete Calinski <pjcalinski at adelphia.net> clarified re: Kegging in PET and Tap-A-Draft >I want "kegs" that are smaller than 5 Gal. or 3 Gal. so I can fit 5 or 6 on the top shelf of my refridigerator at the same time. Also, I'm getting ready to brew my coffee stout. Last year I brewed 1/3 pound of coffee in a coffee maker and added it prior to fermentation. It was pretty good, but didn't have the aroma I'd like. Anyone ever try "dry-coffeeing" in secondary? I'm thinking I might get more of the aroma that way. Chip Stewart Charles at TheStewarts.com http://Charles.TheStewarts.com Pursuant to United States Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, Section 227, any and all unsolicited commercial e-mail (spam) sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee of US$500.00. The sending or forwarding of such e-mail constitutes acceptance of these terms. Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 09/11/01, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96