HOMEBREW Digest #3752 Thu 04 October 2001

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  Freezing Wort ("D Perry")
  Back to School (Stephen Dunn)
  A few things ("Brian M Dotlich")
  draft box woes (Aaron Robert Lyon)
  Hoegaarden White recipe ("Rob Compton")
  pH adjustment ("Houseman, David L")
  Teeshirts, HBD Community Red Cross Fund Status (Pat Babcock)
  Butter Flavoring May Pose Risk To Food Workers ("Pete Calinski")
  Nothing Important (Jim Clement)
  Gravity of Apple Cider (Tony Barnsley)
  water question (Himsbrew)
  Re: Gravity of Apple Cider (Richard Foote)
  Corn Sugar priming ("Chris Hatton")
  Add-On Spigots & Brass vs Stainless ("Hedglin, Nils A")
  "food-grade" rubber washers ("Bill Dubas")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 22:32:00 -0700 From: "D Perry" <daperry75 at home.com> Subject: Freezing Wort I was wondering if you can freeze wort. I am gonna prepare some quart jars of unfermented wort so that I can use them for propagating yeast. Thanks Dave Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 19:32:39 +1000 From: Stephen Dunn <stephenjanette at optushome.com.au> Subject: Back to School G'Day from Sydney Australia, I first attempted home brewing 10 years ago with dismal results. After talking with a mate recently (an avid brewer) I developed a renewed interest in the art. But this time I wanted to be fully prepared! Before doing anything I did research, research, and more research. As a born again brewer I found it difficult to decipher fact from fiction. One book or person would advocate a certain sure fire method of ensuring a perfect brew, and another would contradict the entire process. You can imagine where this would leave me! As an inexperienced brewer, you hang on every word on the subject. I've bought numerous books and searched the internet for as much info as I can find. Well, I've finally achieved a brew which I can honestly say tastes pretty good. Thanks to references from people like John Palmer and a small handbook called Understanding beer by Grant Sampson (another Aussie) I now understand the process in better detail. The point of my writing is - as a novice to the industry, I've struggled to find intermediate advice on the brewing process. You either find "Making your first brew" or it's straight into "full grain brewing". So I'm hoping to see more information posted on general procedures. Many seasoned brewers will probably find these sorts of requests painfully basic, but everyone has to start at the beginning. One area I find awkward is racking into a secondary container. I've made two batches which ended up with off flavors. So I've gone back to single primary fermentation and kegging after one week. I leave the burped keg at room temp for conditioning for a further week, then gas it up in the fridge. The reason I shy away from the secondary fermenter is I'm told that when the primary fermentation is more or less finished, the beer is very susceptible to oxidisation and infection. Putting it straight into a sanitized keg and burping seems to be the safe way out. But I'm not transferring bright beer. Does anyone have advise on this area. By the way, I'm doing ales. Thanks Stephen Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 08:28:10 -0400 From: "Brian M Dotlich" <BMDotlich at cs.com> Subject: A few things Fellow Brewers, First off I would like to thank everyone who responded to my inquiry about German Pretzels. I didn't imagine that my question would generate such interest. First, A few weeks ago I was touring a small brewery in the area and was discussing with the brewmaster water loss during the boil. I've never understood how it is that commercial breweries can keep their water losses relatively low compared to homebrewers. On my way home I was thinking that maybe the tube that leads up to the ceiling and out of the roof of the building may have something to do with this. Perhaps, as the steam rises up the tube, some of it cools on its way up and condenses on the sides of the tube and falls back into the wort. Next thought. I Was looking at a stainless steel conical fermenter at a local homebrew supply shop this last weekend. Later on that day I was thinking about Budweiser and the Beachwood that they use because of the very highly flocculating yeast used to brew Budweiser. I was thinking that carboys have an advantage over conicals by allowing a larger surface area of the beer to remain in contact with the yeast. If this is so, this would play a major role in fermentation of beers with highly flocculent yeasts as well as with lager yeasts which must reabsorb diacetyl and acetaldehyde during lagering. And finally. I was wondering if beer from brewpub in a growler would last longer, perhaps weeks instead of days, if I sanitized the growler before I took it to the brewpub Your thoughts on these points are appreciated Brian M Dotlich Dayton, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 08:33:02 -0400 (EDT) From: Aaron Robert Lyon <lyona at umich.edu> Subject: draft box woes Brewers, I have a draft box that I love, but when it arrived (I had to buy it as I am not terrible handy) I noticed that the beer line they used was larger than any beer line I had ever used before. In fact, to attach the quick connects at all I had to put in a small piece of smaller tubing on the end of the quick connect and crimp down on the tubes a good amount. This wasn't to make them fit tightly, but just to make them fit at all. Now, when I use the draft box, I always get some foaming in the lines to the coils. How can I solve this? Thanks. Please help, losing beer! -Aaron Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 14:12:47 +0100 From: "Rob Compton" <compton at btinternet.com> Subject: Hoegaarden White recipe For a 5US Gallon brew... OG 1048 - 11.9 Plato Pale Malt 4.65lb Unmalted Wheat 4.2lb - this should be a "soft / biscuit wheat" not a "hard / bread wheat" Flaked Oats 7.5oz Start of boil Goldings 0.7oz Saaz 0.5oz Last 15minutes of boil Saaz 0.45oz Ground coirander seed 0.08oz Dried Curacao peel 0.1oz Single infusion mash - 68C or 154F for 90mins Boil - 90mins Racking Gravity 1011 - 2.7 Plato Alcohol 5% abv, 4%abw Bitterness 18EBU Colour 8EBC Ale Yeast To ensure max geletinisation of the raw wheat, crack it first, and boil it in a minimum amount of water for a few minutes. It should geletinise at normal mash temps, but just to make sure... For best coriander flavour, get whole seed and crush it just before use. Ready milled seed lacks the full flavour and aroma of freshly crushed. Used a pestle and mortar, or coffee grinder for best results. The curacao peel should be milled before use too, this releases the flavours into the brew. Ferment as an ale at around 20C, then mature for one month in a cask at 12-15C. Bottle with just a dash of sugar per bottle. Hoegaarden (Interbrew!) add a few grains of bottom working yeast when bottling. There, that didn't hurt did it! Rob. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 09:33:26 -0400 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: pH adjustment Ray Daniels replies to Mike Szwaya on the question of acidifying wort and sparge water. I agree with Ray but would add to this that in brewing to specific styles, it is necessary to closely match the water from the region of that style. Styles were created because certain grains, hops and processes worked with the local water to produce palatable beers. Other combinations didn't. The soft water of Plzn allowed for high hop bitterness without harshness. Roasted grains, which acidify the wort naturally worked with the alkaline water of Dublin. IMHO one of the keys to brewing good beers that meet the expectations of styles is to modify your brewing water to match that of the region for that style. That's not to say that you can't make something that you like with whatever water you have but, like the brewers of old, you might need to experiment to see what grains and processes work best with your water. Whatever the approach, use the same water to mash-in and to sparge and you shouldn't have any problems. Do take care to measure the pH of the runoff from your mash tun to the kettle to see that it doesn't exceed 6.0, or alternatively that the gravity doesn't fall below a 1.010-1.012, temperature corrected. Dave Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 09:21:03 -0400 (EDT) From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Teeshirts, HBD Community Red Cross Fund Status Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... First, there appears to be no interest in designing a tee shirt for the HBD as the 10/15 deadline for submissions approaches. If you are interested in designing a tee, but haven't there are any particular reasons why you haven't, please let me know. Again, if you are interested in designing a tee shirt for the HBD, please send a .gif or .jpg of your design to teeshirt at hbd.org. All submissions will be voted upon by the HBD readership (and, I suppose, random site visitors...) and the winner will be produced for the 2002 Official HBD Tee. The original announcement is reprinted below for your viewing pleasure. Finally, the HBD Community Red Cross Fund stands at $425. I have not been to the PO Box, so if you've donated by that means, I will not have received it as yet. Once again, if you wish to donate to the Red Cross and would like to have your donation go twice as far, please donate through the Match Fund. If received in time for me to postmark the entire fund by 10/15 (I will probably mail the check 10/13 to ensure it receives the prescribed postmark) these funds will receive a match. If received after, I will try to identify other oppportunities to have the funds matched (there are still several public matches in my area), but will forward them to the Red Cross regardless. - -- - God bless America! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock "The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged from my yeast lab Saturday ============ Reprinted from HBD #3710 ============== Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 10:30:49 -0400 (EDT) From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: HBD Tee-Shirt Contest! Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... No, no - this is NOT an opportunity to douse tee-shirt clad beauties with water. As you (may or may not) know, the HBD has been getting our merchandising act s-l-o-w-l-y together. So far, we've managed to get button production under way in support of the many conventions, competitions and conferences we HBDers go to, and at which we pass each other like so many ships in the night, having no way to recognize each other... Our next sally into the battle of marketing is tee shirts! One problem: what goes on it?! That brings us to the HBD Tee-Shirt Contest! Here's an opportunity to stew your creative juices, let them congeal in technicolor, and spew 'em onto the chest (or back) of HBD members everywhere! We're looking to have designs for the HBD Tee-Shirt created by those who know the HBD best: you. So create your artwork, render it to gif or jpeg format, and send it to teeshirt at hbd.org. We'll publish the pic onto the HBD website, and provide voting buttons so that site visitors can vote for the 2002 HBD Tee-Shirt design. The design netting the highest votes by contest deadline goes to production, with attribution to the winner! The winner will also receive a free shirt bearing their design, plus a HBD button containing their name and Chief Clothier as the second line. Their photo and design will also appear on the HBD website. Legal mumbo-jumbo: All designs, whether winning or not, become the sole property of HBD.ORG to use or disposition as they see fit. Contest is open to anyone wishing to submit a design. HBD.ORG reserves the right to not publicly display any design deemed obscene, in poor taste, or counter to the HBD.ORG philosophy without notification to the submitter. Designs must not contain copyrighted or trademarked images, unless copyright or trademarked by HBD.ORG. Winning design may be rendered or modified suitably for silk screening and/or for display on the HBD.ORG website. Contest begins with publication of this notice. Contest is expected to complete 10/15/01. See http://hbd.org for details as they are developed. All proceeds generated through HBD merchandise are used to recoup the cost of said merchandise and the cost of maintaining the HBD.ORG presence on the internet. Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 09:57:31 -0400 From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net> Subject: Butter Flavoring May Pose Risk To Food Workers Just a note to keep everyone up to date. The Wall Street Journal reports in the October 3,2001 edition that: After examining 117 workers at the Jasper (Mo.) plant of Gilster-Mary Lee Corp, the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health issued a preliminary report saying that eight workers there have developed bronchiolitis obliterans, a rare disease in which lung tissue is permanently destroyed. Six of those eight are awaiting lung transplants. The plant, which makes popcorn, also had twice the national rate of bronchitis and asthma and more than three times the rate of obstructed breathing. The institute believes it is safe to eat the popcorn. It is the production workers that are at risk because of their intense exposure. The agency is warning about DIACETYL, a chemical compound that smells and tastes like butter. On the plant floor, workers mix soybean oil, salt, artificial butter flavoring, and coloring agents warmed to 108 F. When you open the lid to the mixer, it would take your breath away a worker reports. I don't want to make fun of the effect on these workers but, I would assume none of us brews anything with enough diacetyl to be at risk. Of course, long time beer judges....Nah. Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY *********************************************************** *My goal: * Go through life and never drink the same beer twice. * (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.) *********************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 11:06:23 -0400 From: Jim Clement <jclement at silverbacktech.com> Subject: Nothing Important Last Sunday, I brewed my first spiced pumpkin beer. As I do not have a scale, I thought I would take a picture of the amount of pumpkin I used, so I would have some type of reference as to the amount I used in this beer. I figured while I was at it, I would snap a couple more and throw them on the web for anyone that might be interested. As I enjoy checking out other brewers' equipment/procedures etc., and it's always comforting to me to see others using plastic buckets, blankets strapped around mash tuns and other "non-professional" equipment, I though I would post these pix. Hopefully, they will encourage others to do the same. When the vast majority of what one reads gets in the books and on the web gets into the nitty-gritty of efficiency percentages, RIMS, sacc. rests, mineral content etc.; this is proof that one can still relax and not worry. I would also like to thank everyone that replied to my problem with the Polder thermometer probe several months ago. The shrink tape works great, just don't put it in the gas grill stuck in a leg of lamb for a few hours: it will melt. I now have one I use for brewing, and one for cooking. We all knew it would come to that. :) The recipe I used for this beer was a combination of an all grain English Pale Ale I have been making recently, and a spiced pumpkin ale extract recipe from one Jamey Moss (http://hbd.org/brewery/cm3/recs/08_34.html). He was right about it smelling good while it cooked. If anyone is intersted in the details, I can email them; but I will wait for this one to finish before I think about putting them on the web. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 16:50:34 +0100 From: Tony Barnsley <tony.barnsley at blackpool.gov.uk> Subject: Gravity of Apple Cider Hi all, Not actually made any cider for a while, as I found a really good supplier of locally, (well 120 miles away? :> ) produced cider. They add no sugar to the pressings and reckon on getting 8% ABV from the neat juice. What that equates to as OG I have no idea, I suppose I could always ask. They use a blend of 3-4 types of apple to get the right acidity, they did use a single variety of cider apple one year, but ended up with a way too acid batch that was used for blending. All the cider is aged in oak for one year as well I think there might be cider pages at http://www.hamstead-brewing-centre.co.uk but they were talking about setting up a separate site for the WobblyGob cider. Incidentally Hamstead are the only licensed cider producers in the Midlands, and their cider was at the GBBF this year. At current rates of sale they will be selling out of the current batch in April, and the next batch won't be ready until May! This stuff is popular. - -- Wassail! The Scurrilous Aleman (ICQ 46254361) Schwarzbad Lager Brauerei, Blackpool, Lancs, UK UK HOMEBREW - A Forum on Home Brewing in the UK Managed by home brewers for home brewers To Subscribe send blank email to uk-homebrew-subscribe at smartgroups.com This message has been scanned by F-Secure Anti-Virus for Microsoft Exchange as part of the Council's e-mail and internet policy. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 13:37:18 EDT From: Himsbrew at aol.com Subject: water question greetings all, I have a question about water. Let me start by saying that to me chemistry is just a bad memory from high school! I have a private well at home(Green Bay Wi) so I haven't had the $ to get it tested. my water goes thru a home water softner, then is filtered thru a sink filter (culligan type )with two filter cartriges. Now my question, is this ok to brew with? I am about to start all-grain brewing, and I don't want to screw it up!! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 13:50:54 -0400 From: Richard Foote <rfoote at mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Gravity of Apple Cider Cider Makers, >Does anyone know off-hand the typical gravity of unfermented apple cider. >I (of course) can take the gravity myself when I buy a gallon from the >store, but I was planning to use a gallon of it in a brew and I'm trying to >plan ahead. Another data point: As measured last night = 1.045. NOTE: This was GA fresh cider from a local orchard, not that clear apple juice stuff as found in stores. Last year, I recall it running in the mid 40's too (same orchard). I would think it could also vary by time of year. Apple harvest here runs from August to Nov. with different varieties, having different characteristics, e.g., tart vs. sweet, maturing at various times during the period. Hope this helps. Rick Foote Whistle Pig Brewing Murrayville, GA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 13:58:55 -0400 From: "Chris Hatton" <chrishatton23 at hotmail.com> Subject: Corn Sugar priming I use 3/4 cup corn sugar to bottle carbonate my 5 gallon batches, and I have often noticed a "spritzy" or champagne-like carbonation in my brews. I tried lowering the amount to 1/2 cup sugar, which produced a an undercarbonated beer. I have tried carbonating with DME, but I experienced a large amount of sediment in my bottles, so I switched back. Is this a problem anyone else has had?? Does it relate to the temperature at which I store my bottles? I amm trying 2/3 cup corn sugar next, or maybe DME again. Any comments or suggestions? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 11:23:52 -0700 From: "Hedglin, Nils A" <nils.a.hedglin at intel.com> Subject: Add-On Spigots & Brass vs Stainless Hi, I'm still looking around for a brew pot & had some more questions. I read an article in Brew Your Own about Fermentaps Weldless Ball Valve that can be added to a brew pot just by drilling a hole. Has any one used something like this? How well has it worked? Also, I've found brass, chrome-plated brass & stainless steel valves. I know that the machining of the brass leaves lead on the surface, but I've heard that once the valve comes in contact with liquid, the lead oxidizes & isn't an issue any more. So, is a regular brass valve OK? I've also heard there's a way to treat the brass to remove the lead. What is that process? Does the chrome-plating prevent the lead from contacting the wort? Thanks, Nils Hedglin Sacramento, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 22:29:37 +0000 From: "Bill Dubas" <bill_dubas at hotmail.com> Subject: "food-grade" rubber washers Greetings; I am in the process of adding a recirculation option to my mash tun, using a 1-gallon SS pot as a grant with a SS bulkhead fitting in it for a drain. As I do not have access to a welder, I'm going the "weldless" approach. I tried using food-grade Buna rubber O-rings to create a good seal between the bulkhead fitting and the pot, but they deformed too easy and leaked when I tightened down the bulkhead nuts. I'm thinking that I need to switch to a flat washer to get a good seal. However, I'm having trouble locating rubber flat washers in the size I need that are specified as food-grade. Usually it's not even specified whether they are or not. How important is it for these rubber washers to be food-grade? I imagine that a non-food-grade washer would introduce unwanted flavors and odors, or maybe worse. Are there any other options that I may be overlooking? Thanks in advance for any help, Bill Return to table of contents
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