HOMEBREW Digest #3797 Mon 26 November 2001

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  Re: Turkey cookers and a question (Steve Bruns)
  While on the subject of cleaning... (leavitdg)
  re: Guinness Widgets (Nancy & George)
  RE:Gruit, herbs used in beer ("Tim R")
  RE: keg pressures (Jay\) Reeves" <jay666 at bellsouth.net>
  Condensation ("Mike Pensinger")
  Commercial Yeast Production ("Fred L. Johnson")
  Schmidling Maltmill (Roger & Roxy Whyman)
  the new Guinness bottles (Jeff & Ellen)
  Re:  Cleaning beer lines (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Re: Guinness bottle widgets (Marc Tiar)
  Re: Arrogant Bastard clone ("redbeard47.ny")
  Brew shop help ("redbeard47.ny")
  git yer corn!/Clarity Malt ("Dave Sapsis")
  Something's Got a Hold on Me (ensmingr)
  Brew Suppliers in Atlanta ("Mike")
  Its a beautiful thing! (Steven S)
  J type thermal couples (Ralph Link)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 06:51:51 -0500 From: Steve Bruns <sdbruns at locl.net> Subject: Re: Turkey cookers and a question hbders: At the local catalog merchandiser, (K's Merchandise, Ft. Wayne, IN) turkey cooker pot /burner set-ups came in both stainless steel and aluminum - price IIRC was $60 for aluminum and $90 for stainless. Don't remember the actual pot capacities but do remember thinking that they were enough for a full 5 gal. boil with pleanty of headroom. I recently bought one of the "Tap-a-Draft" minikeg set-ups from Williams Brewing. The instructions that came with it address attaching the dispenser/CO2 only. Williams catalog says you can't force carbonate with this set up while another catalog (St. Pat's?? - I can't remember) says that you can force carbonate one mini keg since the regulator is preset for 15# while the others cask condition using 1/2 c. priming sugar in the whole batch. I realize this "tap-a-draft" system is new but I was wondering if any list members have any thoughts/experience concerning this inexpensive ($50) kegging system.. Thanks, Steve Bruns Rome City, IN (a little to the left and a little bit down from 0,0 Rennerian) Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 06:47:28 -0500 (EST) From: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu Subject: While on the subject of cleaning... This doesn't have to do with tap lines, but blow off tubes and siphon tubes. Have you ever wondered how to get rid of that white / yellow discoloration that seems to annoyingly grow on the inside of plastic siphon and blow-off tubes? There are small brushes that one can snake up in there...then rinse in chlorine and it is all gone...! .Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 10:19:59 -0500 From: Nancy & George <homsweet at voicenet.com> Subject: re: Guinness Widgets >I saw an ad for Draught Guinness in bottles. Do these use a Widget that will >fit through the opening in standard beer bottles? Is anyone familiar with the >overall process of using Widgets and whether this is something that could be >considered by the HB community? Can any wholesalers/retailers get these >Widgets for bottles, if they exist? > >David Houseman >SE PA Dave, They are designed to not fit through the neck of the bottle to avoid litigation from swallowing the sucker. I believe that they would require complex machinery to use and that Guinness views this item as an almost military secret. The purpose is so that dudes in clubs can have a draft-style Guinness while drinking from the bottle (barbarians!)No one offers them to the HB trade and I doubt they will. For a Guinness like effect try using Nitrous oxide cartridges instead of co2 on a mini-keg system. My gas house will do canisters of mixed gas if you request it. I use 15% nitro for regular beer (nice creamy retained head) or 75% for stout. Without a restrictor faucet- just pour real slow from a party tap. So you can also use it with corni kegs. Cheers! George Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 10:00:26 -0500 From: "Tim R" <par8head at earthlink.net> Subject: RE:Gruit, herbs used in beer RJ writes: <i>"Someday, I'll find some heather, as I've always had an interest in that too."</i> I have two bags of heather awaiting a Scotch Ale recipe. I just can't remember where I bought them. All my herbs are made by "Brewer's Garden" and I know they sell heather. I thought I bought them at Hop Tech, but can't find them on-line now. I'm sure someone here can help. Also, anyone have any recipe recommendations for a good "Heather Ale?" Timmy par8head at earthlink.net AIM: par8head5 Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 06:22:32 -0600 From: "James \(Jay\) Reeves" <jay666 at bellsouth.net> Subject: RE: keg pressures Last Friday, Brian Lundeen sez: > Aaargh, I just don't get this kegging stuff. Carbonation pressures, serving > pressures, turning up, turning down, balancing line pressures, ... I repeat, > aaargghhh! > > I thought I had this figured out. {snip} > Anyway, I thought I was supposed to balance that pressure by using an > appropriate length of line to my tap. I believe you're right, Brian. I do that and it certainly provides good results - I serve beers from 8psi to 26psi (yeah, that's a Weizen alright). > Using 3/16" line which drops around 2 > psi per foot, I figure a 12' line to my tap should produce a nice slow flow, > even if I leave the pressure at 25 psi. For my regular beers, I figure on a > 7' line. So with a couple of disconnects, some cheap taps and a roll of line > I figure I should be able to fashion some appropriate serving assemblies for > handling my beers without worrying about turning down pressures for serving, > then turning them back up so that teh carbonation level doesn't drop. Using 2psi/foot drop is a good starting point, then you'll have to screw around with adjusting the length a little to get it just right. Seems I arrived at 1.8psi/foot drop, but I imagine it will be different for every installation. Things like how high the tap is above the kegs liquid level comes into play also. Also you want to think about the pour rate - if it's too slow, it'll foam - if it's too fast, the CO2 gets knocked out of solution as it slams into the bottom of the glass. As the beer comes out of the tap, it should fill the entire diameter of the taps nozzle - not dribble out the bottom half of the nozzle. You should shoot for a pour rate between 100oz/min to 130oz/min - you can time this by how fast it takes to fill a 12oz glass then do the math. I get pretty good results with 120oz/min. But as the keg empties, that pour rate will drop, provided the same pressure is on the keg. And you want to make sure you are using "beer line", not food-grade tubing from the hardware store. There must be some irregularities in the food-grade hardware store tubing because in my experience, it caused the beer to foam no matter what you did. And the Weizen is gonna foam anyway at that high a pressure. I've never been to Germany, but I'm told that it takes a while for the server to pour a Weizen because it foams over there too. -Jay Reeves Huntsville, AL Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 10:30:01 -0500 From: "Mike Pensinger" <beermkr at bellatlantic.net> Subject: Condensation Hello all, Well my new freezer works like a charm for fermentation.. The only issue I have is that I get a large amount of condensation inside. The freezer is a commercail ice cream freezer with sliding glass lids. I have an analog controller and the span seems to be about 9 degrees. I am going to replace it with a Ranco unit or a PID controller set for on/off control. Will limiting the temerature swings help my condensation problem? Anyone have any other ideas? Mike Pensinger beermkr at bellatlantic.net http://members.bellatlantic.net/~beermkr/ Norfolk Virginia - [551.4, 132.9] Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 10:43:34 -0500 From: "Fred L. Johnson" <FLJohnson at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Commercial Yeast Production I've been playing around with aerobic yeast starters using constant infusion of concentrated wort for about a year now. It's a little tricky and requires very careful sanitation maintenance. The principal (whether correct or incorrect) upon which I've been operating is that yeast growth is limited by the amount of growth substrate provided to the yeast, i.e. the more substrates one provides for yeast growth, the more yeast growth one should get. Correct? If so, it would seem that starting a yeast culture off in a dilute solution of substrate (wort) and continuously providing the culture with a source of nutrients (and adequate oxygen) by constant infusion would allow the yeast to grow indefinitely. The practical limitation is how much volume one is able to handle. To overcome the volume problem, I slowly infuse a highly concentrated wort. The trick here is to provide the nutrients at the same rate as that by which the yeast consume the nutrients. I believe this is the principal upon which some commercial breweries culture their yeast, and I'm guessing that this is the way that commercial yeast producers grow the large quantities of yeast in the shortest amount of time and in the least amount of volume. Does anyone know how the commercial yeast producers (Wyeast, etc.) grow large quantities of yeast? My guess is that it is nothing like the typical step culturing commonly performed by homebrewers. - -- Fred L. Johnson Apex, North Carolina USA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 10:48:27 -0700 From: Roger & Roxy Whyman <rwhyman at mho.com> Subject: Schmidling Maltmill EO asks about Schmidling Maltmills, I've had an adjustable Schmidling Maltmill for about 7 or so years and it's been motorized for about 3 years. I do 15 gal batches, so I'm crushing 25 to 35 lbs at a time. It has worked wonderfully for me, both before and after the motor. As for the motor, I got a used one with a built in reduction gear from the Surplus Center in Lincoln, NE. They also sell a three piece coupler that works great. The reduction gear means no pulleys or belts to get clothes, fingers or whatever, caught in. I think I end up with about 100 to 120 rpm, maybe a little faster, but not so fast that your afraid the bearings will fail. I've moved recently, so finding all the particulars on the motor and coupler #, may be tuff, but if you call information for their phone #, they will send a catalog. The motor sure beats turning a crank. Good Luck Roger Whyman Parker, CO How about that Colorado - Nebraska game. What an A** Kickin' Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 13:29:59 -0500 From: Jeff & Ellen <JeffNGladish at ij.net> Subject: the new Guinness bottles David Houseman wrote, "I saw an ad for Draught Guinness in bottles. Do these use a Widget that will fit through the opening in standard beer bottles? Is anyone familiar with the overall process of using Widgets and whether this is something that could be considered by the HB community? Can any wholesalers/retailers get these Widgets for bottles, if they exist?" The widget is a floating ball that stays in the bottle. It won't easily fit through the neck. It is designed to inject more nitrogen into the beer as you drink it right out of the bottle. For a good explanation of how a widget works, read Michael J. Lewis' Stout, a Brewers Publications Classic Beer Styles series book. The can or bottle is injected with liquid nitrogen just before sealing or capping. When the pressure of CO2 and Nitrogen equalizes in the beer and the can or bottle, some of the gas and beer is forced into the widget. When the bottle is opened and pressure released, a jet stream of beer and gas is released through a small hole in the widget with "sufficient shear to cause gas breakout; these bubbles in turn nucleate other bubbles and the characteristic Guinness surge is underway." The very strange thing about the bottled Guinness is their marketing. They want us to drink the beer right out of the bottle. It seems that more gas is "jetted" out of the widget every time you tip the bottle, making it "creamier" with every sip. I'm not sure how or why they do this. I've always thought that half the enjoyment of a Guinness is from looking at it in the pint glass. The cascading bubbles; the creamy white "parson's collar" on jet black liquid; the lace inside the glass marking the length of each sip. To drink this out of a bottle would be almost sacrilege, don't you think? Jeff Gladish, Tampa, Fl. (989.5, 175.5 Rennerian) Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 12:32:04 -0800 From: Dion Hollenbeck <hollen at woodsprite.com> Subject: Re: Cleaning beer lines Regarding the slimy picnic tap: Why not just take it off and rinse it out and hang it up to dry between uses? I never let a beer line with picnic tap stay on a keg when not immediately in use. I never have to do anything more than rinse out with hot water immediately after use and I never get any gunk building up in mine. BTW, I use quick disconnects with flare fittings so that I can take the hose off the QD and take hoses and QDs and faucets all apart and let dry after rinsing. I also have regular beer faucets. Unless they are under pretty constant use (at least one beer a day) I disconnect them and flush them out with hot water. I don't drink enough beer to need to leave lines on constantly, and flushing one out with hot water immediately after use only takes 30 seconds or so. These procedures should probably clear up your slime problem (at least if you start with new hoses and faucets). And if you don't care enough about your beer to spend the teeny amount of money to trash any suspect hoses and picnic faucet, then you will get problems with your beer and there will be no one to blame but yourself. dion - -- Dion Hollenbeck Email: hollen at woodsprite.com Home Page: http://www.woodsprite.com Brewing Page: http://hbd.org/hollen [1359.5,263.7] Rennerarian Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 14:36:04 -0800 From: Marc Tiar <marc at tiar.reno.nv.us> Subject: Re: Guinness bottle widgets I managed to get one of these out of the bottle without breaking it (the bottle that is), out of curiousity. The bottle looked like a nice one to keep for reuse. Anyway, the widget is kind of rocket shaped (I think they actually call it the "rocket widget" in the bottle version), with stiff little wings that prevent it from coming out and down your throat as you tip it back. I suspect they push it into the bottle with the wings folded in, then they pop open in the bottle. It was pretty challenging to remove - I ended up with a hot screwdriver melting it into the widget to grab hold, after failing with tweezers and needle-nose pliers. It should fit in any standard bottle, but I don't know if they're reusable at all. Don't know exactly how they charge them, might be semi-proprietary info. And the bottled draught Guinness was just fine with me, although not as enjoyable as true draught or the canned version, imo. I went for a glass rather than their suggestion of drinking straight from the bottle. Just didn't seem right with a Guinness. :-) Marc Tiar Reno, NV [1874.4, 276.4] Apparent Rennerian >Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2001 15:19:05 -0500 >From: "David Houseman" <housemanfam at earthlink.net> >Subject: Guinness Widgets > >I saw an ad for Draught Guinness in bottles. Do these use a Widget that will >fit through the opening in standard beer bottles? Is anyone familiar with the >overall process of using Widgets and whether this is something that could be >considered by the HB community? Can any wholesalers/retailers get these >Widgets for bottles, if they exist? > >David Houseman >SE PA Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 09:06:58 -0500 From: "redbeard47.ny" <redbeard47.ny at netzero.net> Subject: Re: Arrogant Bastard clone >BYO printed a clone about a year back , I could probably find it if you >want, actually considered it myself. Bob Beer, it's not just for breakfast anymore! - ---------------------------------------------------- Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today Only $9.95 per month! http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97 Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 09:51:53 -0500 From: "redbeard47.ny" <redbeard47.ny at netzero.net> Subject: Brew shop help Out of lurk mode: Does anyone know of a brew shop in the Wash DC, Alexandria, or Annapolis area? Going to be visiting and might as well pick up some supplies and save the shipping if possible. Also worried about ordering carboys via mail. Bob Return to lurk mode: 8-)= Beer, it's not just for breakfast anymore! - ---------------------------------------------------- Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today Only $9.95 per month! http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 06:51:25 -0800 From: "Dave Sapsis" <dsapsis at earthlink.net> Subject: git yer corn!/Clarity Malt Concerning sources for corn, I'd like to echo Marc Sedam's good advice -- namely that Brewers maize from homebrew shops is often old and well past its prime. A number of years ago I got a bag (50#) of brewers flaked maize, and after making a less than remarkable beer with it, I noticed a distinct stale, papery character in the aroma of the maize. I then did a simple test -- I boiled up a small sample of the flakes side by side some polenta. There was a huge difference in the way the two products smelled and tasted, with the flakes having a stale, faintly musty and dead flavor (not unlike those from very old boxes of cereal that have somehow gone open but unused) compared to the bright, fresh corn cereal notes of the polenta. While like Jeff, I enjoy the cereal cooker routine, I was curious if the flavors derived from Polenta/grits were unique, or if its just a matter of getting fresh flakes. I have a new bag that smells fresh, and I have used it to good effect, but still when tested side by side has a more muffled, subdued corn character than the grits. It isn't stale at all, but a much softer and less detailed aroma. Whether this difference translates into appreciable differences in beers -- don't have a good system for testing that. But regardless, my take home is that if you need to use flakes due to procedural constraints, make sure they are fresh. However, one really cool side effect of having a good supply of polenta in your pantry is that you will likely be inclined to use it for dinner as well, where it is most welcome. ******************* Chuck Dougherty of Little Rock, AR asks about Crisp's Clarity Malt. Well, ain't that just like a homebrew supplier, claiming nil when they mean low. Clarity malt is most known for its very low protein levels (the lot I had a bag from listed total protein at less than 9%!) and thus its true that it would have lower polyphenol components. It also has lower diastatic power, was slightly lighter in color than the normal pale ale malt from Crisp, and was a little less plump. Its main use is as a protein dillutant for British brewers who sometimes run into both runnoff and clarity/stability issues from abnormally high Nitrogen lots of base malt. The stuff I got actually had very good flavor, and I made some bitters using it wholly as the base malt, as well as a bizarre Jasmine rice cream ale thingy. Unless you have particular needs for low protein, however, it seems the basic Crisp Maris Otter (which is a truly premium malt) might be a better choice for making English style ales. - --dave sapsis, sacramento CA Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 12:24:26 -0500 From: ensmingr at twcny.rr.com Subject: Something's Got a Hold on Me This just in from the "Syracuse New Times" ... An Estonian couple won the world wife-carrying title for the fourth year in a row, using a toting method called the "Estonian carry". In it, the woman squeezes her thighs on the sides of the man's face and holds onto his waist while hanging upside down along his back, leaving his arms free to swing as he runs along the 277 yard course. In defending their title against 20 other husband-and-wife teams in Sonkajarvi, Finland, Margo Uusorg, 22, and Birgit Ullrich, 18, won Brigit's weight in beer. She weighs 75 pounds. Cheerio! Peter A. Ensminger Syracuse, NY Life Under the Sun: http://www.yale.edu/yup/lifesun Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 14:43:43 -0500 From: "Mike" <brewski at inet99.net> Subject: Brew Suppliers in Atlanta I have a son that lives in Marietta, GA that is interested in getting into homebrewing. (Picking up one of dad's habits.) He has a birthday coming up in a few days and I was thinking about getting a extract homebrew setup. I plan on calling in an order over the phone then having him pick up the goodies himself. There are several in the Atlanta area. Any of you have any experience with HB shops in the Atlanta area, good, bad, marked them off your list... Email me with your thoughts, experience, advice at brewski at inet99.net Also, any advice on HB clubs. I see there are several in Atlanta. Mike Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 20:23:55 -0500 (EST) From: Steven S <steven at 403forbidden.net> Subject: Its a beautiful thing! I recently purchased a "kegerator". The converted fridge type for corny kegs, dual tap tower, yada yada... I kegged my Crankcast Stout. After 2 co2 leaks, a popped circuit breaker and some fiddling, i'm enjoying a beautiful foamy head and a warm belly. Sadly this keg probably will not make it out of its youth. Yet coming home to a perfect pint is so worth it! Steven St.Laurent ::: steven at 403forbidden.net ::: 403forbidden.net [580.2, 181.4] Rennerian ::: Lilburn (atlanta) GA Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 21:56:19 -0600 From: Ralph Link <ralphl at shaw.ca> Subject: J type thermal couples I recently obtained a 10 channel Fluke digital thermometer. It uses the J type thermal couple. I have been advised that it is simple and cheap to make your on thermal couple with the J type wire. We plan to use the unit with several probes in the mask and hot liquor tank to monitor the temps during the brewing day. Does anyone have any opinions on the introduction of these probes into the mash or hot liquor tank? Thanks in advance for any opinions offered. Return to table of contents
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