HOMEBREW Digest #3856 Mon 04 February 2002

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  Re: Superbowl brews ("Chad Gould")
  Gott Cooler Thermometer ("John Zeller")
  Fermenter response.......... (John Maylone)
  RE: Thermometers ("David Houseman")
  Subject: Gott Cooler Thermometer ("Mike")
  Re: Thermometers ("Ken Taborek")
  Re: Bottles for Barleywine ("Ken Taborek")
  Gott Thermometer (Bill Wible)
  Re: Superbowl brews ("Pete Calinski")
  Re: fermenters ("Kurt Schweter")
  re: Superbowl brews (susan woodall)
  re: Sour Cherry Concentrate (susan woodall)
  Fermenters ("Kirk Fleming")
  Fermentors / skim / thermometer / order (Crossno Clan)
  HERMS/fermenters (David Passaretti)
  Re: Gott Cooler Thermometer (bdk)
  Abts False Bottoms (Andrew Nix)
  Re: Hop Floaties (Steven S)
  Re: Indoor automated brewing (Steven S)
  Re: Grain/Water Ratio and other mashing techniques ("Fred L. Johnson")
  Re: Newbie question - rehydrated yeast temperature ("Angie and Reif Hammond")
  Bottle sanitizing (Bob Sheck)
  Re:  Cherry Concentrate (Nathan Kanous)
  Re: Grain/Water Ratio and other mashing techniques ("Steve Alexander")
  Re: Further stuck fermentation (john.mcgowan)
  Yeast questions...... (Steve C Cobble)
  RE: historical beer /yeast ("Bob Hall")
  Re:  Newbie question [Hydrating/pitching dry yeast] ("Ralph Davis")
  carbonation chart in british ("Chris Hatton")
  Suitable beer clarifiers... ("Ralph Davis")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 01:08:42 -0500 From: "Chad Gould" <cgould11 at tampabay.rr.com> Subject: Re: Superbowl brews > What is everybody planning on drinking during Superbowl? Purely by chance, > I have a doppelbock on tap for the game (going for the Rams theme). Hmm. :) The brew I made late December is a light "sweet stout". (By light I mean only 3% alcohol or so, but still sweet like a Mackeson) So I'll bring that to the Super Bowl party I've been invited to, drink up, and maybe share a few. An added benefit is that I can enjoy copious quantities of this beer, still be quite competent, and definitely not wake up with a hangover. Can't say the same for drinkers of some other brands of beer. :) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2002 22:55:04 -0800 From: "John Zeller" <jwz_sd at hotmail.com> Subject: Gott Cooler Thermometer Mike Rogers asked how to install a thermometer in a Gott cooler mash tun (HBD # 3855). I have had good results simply drilling a hole through the sidewall of the cooler and inserting the thermometer probe. Drill the hole slightly smaller than the probe for a snug fit and it will self seal. Simple, cheap and effective. Dave Larsen in the same HBD inquired about using a deep frying (turkey fryer?) type dial thermometer with concern about temperature range and accuracy. I would suggest using the frying thermometer for frying and getting another one for brewing which should have a narrower range with finer graduations. Dave, each "notch" or gradiation mark should be no more than two degrees for an accurate reading. The range need only be from about 50F to 250F or so. Most of the time you will be reading in the vicinity of 150F. You can find a good dial thermometer with a long probe at nearly any homebrew shop, local or mail order for about $10 or so. One thing you will want to do is check it for accuracy and calibrate it if necessary. A "fever" type glass thermometer works well for calibrating. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2002 23:57:04 -0800 From: John Maylone <mrkoala at mac.com> Subject: Fermenter response.......... I want to thank everyone collectively who responded to my request for input on the subject of fermenters. At first I was going to answer them all personally, but there are just too many. Every response I received was helpful and articulate. I read most of them to my wife, and given our tendency to break breakable things, she is nudging me toward a stainless steel conical.......if I can make myself bite off the expense, which looks to be $430-560 or so "out the door" ..... Big gulp, and not a homebrew!!! Thanks again! John Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 06:53:43 -0500 From: "David Houseman" <housemanfam at earthlink.net> Subject: RE: Thermometers I agree that the thermometer is one of the most important tools that we use. There's and old saying that a man with two watches is never sure what time it is. This holds true for thermometers as well. Having at least one that is Certified is quite helpful and look for thermometers that are easily adjusted so you can calibrate in an ice water bath and boiling water. Dave Houseman SE PA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 09:41:08 -0500 From: "Mike" <brewski at inet99.net> Subject: Subject: Gott Cooler Thermometer A friend of mine has a 18, or may be it is 24, inch long SS thermocouple and a meter to plug it into. It is 1/4 inch in diameter. We popped the breather plug out of the underside of the Gott lid and drilled a 1/4 inch hole through the top. Now by rotating the lid and moving the probe up and down we can measure the temp anywhere in the cooler without removing the lid. We have a hook made out of a clothes hanger that holds the thermocouple in the kettle. The kettle is used first to heat the mash water, then to heat the sparge water, to brew and cool the wort before transfering to the carboy. That thermocouple, which is on a 12 ft or so cord is moved back and forth to where we need to be monitoring the temp and the meter doesn't have to be moved. This is one item of our brew equipment that makes brewing more enjoyable. Mike Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 09:52:04 -0500 From: "Ken Taborek" <Ken.Taborek at Verizon.net> Subject: Re: Thermometers > Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2002 12:53:22 -0700 > From: Dave Larsen <HunahpuMonkey at home.com> > Subject: Thermometers [snipped] > Having just moved into all-grain brewing within the last six > months, I've noticed that one of the most important pieces > of equipment is the thermometer. > > I've got one of those deep fry thermometers with the long > poker, and I love is for that. > What I don't like is that because it is a deep fry > thermometer, the temp goes up to 750 F, and the range I need > is so small on the damn thing. > What does everyone else use? Dave, I've had a similar experience to yours. It seems to be very difficult to find a _long_ thermometer with a temperature range suitable for boiling water (or wort, as the case may be). After long searches, I've settled on two pieces of equipment. The first is a candy thermometer, a long glass thermometer mounted to a protective aluminum strip that is about 2 inches wide. This has the same issue as your thermometer, the 'water' scale on it is only about 2" of it's temperature range. It has a sliding clip which is great for moving the thermometer to an appropriate point as the wort level changes. Even though the thermometer isn't completely enclosed, the mount is well designed to protect it from accidental bumps, and I feel very confidant that it will not break even while I'm stirring the wort. The second is one of those floaty thermometers with the shot weighted end that looks pretty much like a hydrometer. It's in the correct range for water, which is great, but I only use it when the wort isn't being agitated, since it's free floating, swirls around with the wort, and can (and has) taken some pretty hard bumps. It also requires a pretty deep draft to float freely, but you mentioned that you're all grain now, so I'd guess that your brew pot is deep enough for it. It's fine for measuring sparge water, mash temps, and determining if the wort has cooled to pitching temperature. Cheer, Ken Northern VA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 10:00:36 -0500 From: "Ken Taborek" <Ken.Taborek at Verizon.net> Subject: Re: Bottles for Barleywine > Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 15:43:00 -0600 > From: "Sieja, Edward M" <EMSieja at ingr.com> > Subject: Bottles for Barleywine > > > Our club has recently brewed a barleywine and are > looking for possible sources for 7oz nip bottles or > something similar. This is for a 5 gallon batch, so > our purchase would be limited. Anyone know of a > good source for these ?? > > - -- Ed Sieja > - -- Madison, AL Ed, You could try the 7oz Coronita bottles. I've heard plenty of invective against Corona on this forum, but I say there's a place for almost any beer. Corona & lime is fine for the summer months as a cooling thirst quencher. Since you're looking to use them for your recently brewed barley wine, you should have plenty of time while it bulk ages to await summer, the Jimmy Buffet tour, and bring a bunch of Coronitas to the show and cart the empties home to bottle your barley wine. :) Cheers, Ken Northern VA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 11:17:03 -0500 From: Bill Wible <bill at brewbyyou.net> Subject: Gott Thermometer Mike, I recently re-did my mash tun with a SS false bottom instead of the plastic Phils Phalse Bottom, and I used both the Zymico Kewler Kitz Basic+ bulkhead/ ball valve setup and the Zymico Kewler Kitz Thermothingy (thermometer bulkhead fitting) to add a thermometer. On the thermometer fitting, it works great. It requires you to drill a 3/8" hole, then just screw it in. I found that it was just a little difficult to get started, though, because it was short. There was barely enough exposed thread to start the nut after it was inserted in the hole. In the long run, I guess this is good, because I know it's a tight seal. Also, you have to use a thermometer with a good 6" probe to get into the cooler through the fitting. A 2" probe will go in, but it doesn't look there will be enough of the probe exposed to the mash to get a decent temp reading. I have used and am very happy with my new setup, especially the SS false bottom. I was able to bend it just a little with a pair of pliers to get it to fit to the exact contour of my cooler's bottom in just a few minutes. And unlike the plastic false bottom, this one does not float. It gets nothing under it. It's great! I sell all of Zymico's stuff, plus stainless false bottoms, etc at my website below. Bill - -------------------------- Brew By You 3504 Cottman Ave. Philadelphia, PA 19149 215-335-BREW (PA) 888-542-BREW (Outside PA) 215-335-0712 (Fax) www.brewbyyou.net - --------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 11:25:26 -0500 From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net> Subject: Re: Superbowl brews I think I'll drink your doppelbock. Where are you and what time should I show up? Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY *********************************************************** *My goal: * Go through life and never drink the same beer twice. * (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.) *********************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 11:50:41 -0500 From: "Kurt Schweter" <KSchweter at smgfoodlb.com> Subject: Re: fermenters second the vote for cornies - 10 gallon, yeast brinks etc. haven't siphoned in 10 years, washed bottles for that matter Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 08:56:24 -0800 From: susan woodall <woodsusa at moscow.com> Subject: re: Superbowl brews I will probasbly have to break down and buy some good micro's as I have run out and have been too busy to brew! But I will be brewing a pale ale in the morning before the game. What is everybody planning on drinking during Superbowl? Purely by chance, I have a doppelbock on tap for the game (going for the Rams theme). Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 08:59:09 -0800 From: susan woodall <woodsusa at moscow.com> Subject: re: Sour Cherry Concentrate Where did you get that concentrate? i would like to get some! Hi, I'm seeing posts about using dried cherries in your beer. I will post based on my own experience. Trial #1 was 8 oz of dried cherries in the secondary of a brown ale. Mild cherry aroma and flavor. Just at threshold. Trial #2 was a quart of that famous sour cherry concentrate. This made cherry beer. I wouldn't go quite so far as to say that I made New Glarus Belgian Cherry Red. However, this beer had HUGE cherry flavor and aroma. Ask some of those guys in the Madison Homebrewers and Tasters Guild. My opinion (for what it's worth)? I'll stick with the sour cherry concentrate. The mead I made is doing quite well also. nathan in madison, wi Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 10:22:41 -0800 From: "Kirk Fleming" <kirkfleming at earthlink.net> Subject: Fermenters In #3855 "Larry Bristol" <Larry at DoubleLuck.com> advises: > Plastic buckets are fine to use as a primary fermentation vessel ...[but] unless made from a high density plastic...they will be gas permeable..making these vessels undesirable for use during the longer secondary fermentation phase. The second problem with plastic is that it is easily scratched. > All good points. This is a good example of how specific brewing practices factor in. I know some folks leave their ales in 2ndary for months--not always by choice but due to busy schedules, etc. I just don't have concerns with the issues Larry raises because: a) I use one yeast exclusively, fermentation is complete in well under 72 hrs (usually 24)--there is no 2ndary. After ~2 days in the fermenter, beverage goes into the "serving cask"--a Corny keg. b) The only thing that ever touches the interior of the fermenter is Iodophor, beer and a washcloth--scratches haven't been an issue. Oh, I did catch my daughters using it as a wash bucket once when they decided to wash their cars. Oooops. c) I'm guessing the krauesen layer (open to the atmosphere) is more O2 permeable than the HDPE or whatever this bucket is (Prolon)--that may seem intuitive, but it may not be true. Larry's points are still valid--I'm not taking issue with them. If you store your chiller in your fermenter, for example, you'll have scratches, and HDPE is about 40-50 times more permeable to O2 than PET, and 'several' times more permeable than stainless or glass :-). Kirk Fleming FRSE, FRSL Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 12:20:22 -0600 From: Crossno Clan <crossno at tnns.net> Subject: Fermentors / skim / thermometer / order Fermentors: I started with glass and now use plastic buckets from the donut shop for all my primaries. Except mead, which is always in glass. In "20 Tips for Better Brewing" by Kinney Baughman, http://www.byo.com/feature/85.html Kinney writes: "6. Eliminate the dreaded boilover! It has happened to every brewer. But it does not have to keep happening. Have you ever noticed how boilover usually happens during the first few minutes of the boil? This is because proteins in the wort coagulate and form a sticky film as the wort comes to a boil. This film literally blows into a giant wort bubble once steam is released from the wort at the onset of the boil. There are two ways to help prevent this wort bubble from forming: *Skim off the thick, creamy protein head that forms on top of the wort as it approaches boiling temperature. *Throw a few hops into the wort before it comes to a boil. " I used a meat thermometer for the first few batches. Then I killed them in the smoker. I bought a digital meat thermometer for smoking Christmas eve dinner. ;-) "Where is a good place to mail order all-extract kits from?" How about supporting the people who support HBD!!!! http://www.northernbrewer.com http://www.morebeer.com/ http://store.yahoo.com/kitsandkegs/index.html http://www.zymico.com I also use http://www.grapeandgranary.com/, and if you have the opportunity support your local shop. Steep some specialty malt, it is easy and your taste buds will thank you. And another thing, if you want to read beer, check out http://hbd.org/brewery/. That is where I got the link to "20 Tips for Better Brewing" by Kinney Baughman" Glyn in TN Only Denis lives semi close, and he never writes or come to visit anymore :-( Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 10:45:44 -0800 (PST) From: David Passaretti <dpassaretti at yahoo.com> Subject: HERMS/fermenters I am attempting to automate a HERMS (thank you Nate, Bill, CD, and others for your input) system and have at my disposal a Gefran 3300 PID controller. It has what is called an analog output (0-10V). I know nothing about these controllers. Does anyone know if there is anyway to use this controller to turn a mag drive pump on/off or control a solenoid? On another topic, I use a sanke keg for a fermneter and would never again use anything else. I had a welder cut the top off of a cornie keg and weld it to the top of the sanke. To clean I simply wipe down the inside with a sponge and warm water. To sanitize, I put one quart of water in it, attach a pressure valve to the gas out of the cornie top and heat on a burner until 20-25psi is reached. I then turn off the burner and allow to cool. I leave the fermneter in a refrigerator next to my brewery with a temperature controller on it. The wort is pumped through a CFC directly into the fermenter. I can then use CO2 to move the finished product to cornie kegs for serving. No lifting, no moving, no exposure to air or contamination, one fermenter for 12 gallons, and fool proof sanitation without chemicals. Works well for me. Thanks David Passaretti Cincinnati, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 10:57:59 -0800 (PST) From: bdk at srl.caltech.edu Subject: Re: Gott Cooler Thermometer In HBD #3855 Mike Rogers asks: > I have a 10 gal. Gott cooler that works excellent for mashing, however, I > would like to take temperature readings without uncapping and submersing a > float thermometer. I see that Zymico (http://www.bobbrews.com/zymico.html) > carries a $10 bulk head fitting for adding a thermometer. Does anyone have > a thermometer installed in their Gott cooler? Has anyone used the Zymico > fitting? Any experiences, good/bad? I have an easy alternative. I use a 5-gal cooler, and I drilled a hole in the lid and stuck in a dial thermometer with a 12-inch stem. The hole is a tight enough that the thermometer won't slip on its own, but I can pull it out when I want to. There are two good things about this -- I can push / pull the thermometer to different heights to convince myself that the temperature is the same everywhere, and it's always in place whenever the lid is on. I can't think of a simpler arrangement. Incidentally, I also have a whirlygig attached to the same lid (and no, I don't think it actually does anything, but the little lady is convinced that the creak-creak sound makes me the most technically advanced brewer on the planet), so I just put the thermometer off-center so that the gig doesn't whirl into it. This also means by spinning the lid a bit, the thermometer samples a different part of the mash, so I can see temperature differences around the tun as well as up / down, without removing the lid. I can't remember where I got the long thermometer, whether it was at the local homebrew shop or McMaster Carr, or whatever -- but I'm sure it didn't cost me more than $20. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 14:23:58 -0500 From: Andrew Nix <anix at vt.edu> Subject: Abts False Bottoms If anyone has any experience with Abts False Bottoms, please send me a message. I finally purchased my pump today for my RIMS (I found it close to the price of Moving Brews...within $5, since I couldn't wait any longer). All I have left to get is the false bottom. I'm low on cash, like most people probably, and can get the Abts false bottom for 1/2 to 1/3 of the cost of a Sabco one. The only question is whether the smaller volume under the false bottom with the Abts is a problem. Drewmeister Andrew Nix Department of Mechanical Engineering Virginia Tech anix at vt.edu http://www.vt.edu:10021/A/anix Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 14:19:12 -0500 (EST) From: Steven S <steven at 403forbidden.net> Subject: Re: Hop Floaties >From: Dave Larsen <HunahpuMonkey at home.com> >Subject: Hop Floaties > >I just started dry hopping within the last couple of batches >I've done. Where I love the better flavor, this has >introduced a new problem. I get an excess amount of hop >chunks that never settle out. Hrm i've been dry hopping both in and out of hop sacks. I gave up on hop sacks since it was such a PITA to get them out of the carboy. I dry hop in the primary, most of the hop bits drop with the yeast. If i was doing it in the secondary a sack would probably help since there is not much to attact the hops and help settle things out. Are you using pellets, plugs or whole hops? I used about a 1/2 oz of hops consisting of cascade and saaz in my belgian wit with very pleasing results. Sure its not true to the style but the hops aroma just gets to me! It all settled out nice from the primary/secondary. Steven St.Laurent ::: steven at 403forbidden.net ::: 403forbidden.net [580.2, 181.4] Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 14:24:39 -0500 (EST) From: Steven S <steven at 403forbidden.net> Subject: Re: Indoor automated brewing >Am I missing something? Or is the main difference between a >"restaurant" stove heat output and a regular kitchen stove heat output >the burner? IOW, why not just replace one burner (and control) on the >regular kitchen stove? (Assuming that there's nothing overhead that >would cause a fire hazard.) Yes, something you dont see. Commercial stoves use 1/2" or larger gas lines under much higher pressure than home units. Replacing the burner would not accomplish anything without re-plumbing a good deal of gas line. A friend of mine wanted a commercial stove, but after having the prospect of replacing their gas lines and upgrading the regulator outside the cost outweighted the benefits. According to a neighbor who did do this they get poor gas pressure also. Not sure if this is the service or the meter outside though. You also have to ventilate well and account for the greater heat. There is a reason commercial stoves use big beefy iron burner. Steven St.Laurent ::: steven at 403forbidden.net ::: 403forbidden.net [580.2, 181.4] Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 15:19:51 -0500 From: "Fred L. Johnson" <FLJohnson at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: Grain/Water Ratio and other mashing techniques Chris Edison asks about the amount of water in the mash. The first homebrewing book I ever read was Brewing Quality Beers by Byron Burch, an accomplished brewer. In his book, Burch states, "The standard ratio of water to grain is 1.1 quarts of water for every pound of grain", so I quickly got in the habit of using 1.1 quarts per pound and never experimented with this much. I find it interesting that Steve Alexander indicates that he considers 1.25-1.5 quarts per pound as being "typical" (standard). I suppose what is standard for one is considerably atypical for another. Obviously, as Steve has clearly stated, water:grist ratio is yet another controllable variable that can be used to adjust the final product (to one's taste). I'd love to know the water:grist ratios (and other mashing techniques) used in our favorite single-infusion (stepped and unstepped) commercial beers. Anyone have this info? - -- Fred L. Johnson Apex, North Carolina USA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 15:40:08 -0500 From: "Angie and Reif Hammond" <arhammond at mediaone.net> Subject: Re: Newbie question - rehydrated yeast temperature Walt writes: > This collective is awesome! Searching the archives, I find instructions > to rehydrate dried yeast in 90 Degree - 100 Degree water ( I know the > high end is bad so will try 90 - 92), wait thirty minutes and pitch into > chilled wert. Other searches say when pitching liquid or starter yeast > to try and match the temperature of the yeast to that of the wert. Other > searches say the wert needs to be cooled to approx. 70 Degrees. I need > to come to grips with the correct temperature combo of wert with > rehydrated yeast. Walt, Typically a range of conflicting opinions on a topic (such as pitching temperature) indicates that there is not a large difference in results within the disputed range. Observed differences are more apt to be due to some other, uncontrolled, variable. Let's take a look at the information you found and see if we can make sense of it. First I will assume you are brewing ales. During fermentation the yeast generate heat as they consume the sugar. As the temperature gets warmer than the range recommended for that yeast, the yeast start to produce larger quantities of esters, higher alcohols and similar stuff that can impart nasty tastes to your beer. To make matters worse, as the temperature gets higher, the rate of fermentation goes up, and the temperature goes up even faster. Thus you do not want to pitch your yeast into wort that is above the recommended temperature for that yeast (70 degrees is not a bad limit) since you would be giving it a head start on the higher temperatures. Now let's look at yeast temperature. The volume of yeast that you will be pitching into the wort is typically much less then the temperature of the wort, so it will not significantly affect the temperature of the wort. The general idea with yeast is to have it ready to start fermenting as soon as it is pitched into the wort before other microbes can get going. The suggestion to match the temperature of the yeast and wort is probably based on the idea that a sudden temperature change will "shock" the yeast. Is that good or bad? I don't know, but you can find different opinions on this topic. The instructions for dried yeast are the same for all dried yeast that I am aware of, for beer or bread, so personally I would follow them. I would not sweat it one bit if the re-hydrated yeast cooled down before I pitched it. With liquid starters the advice becomes more confusing. You want a large volume of yeast so you ferment 1-2 quarts of wort (starter). At 5-10% of a 5 gallon batch, this can affect the flavor of your beer (due to faster fermentation of the starter, mismatch between the flavors of the starter and desired beer, off flavors due to large yeast growth, etc.) Thus the general recommendation is to cool the starter once it has finished fermentation so that the yeast settle out and you can pour most of the "beer" off, leaving just the yeast to pitch. Now at what temperature do you pitch the yeast slurry? It's probably not that critical. What do I do? I cool my starter to about 45 degrees for a day or two to settle the yeast. Sometimes it has a chance to warm up before I pitch it into the fermenter after I pour the beer off the yeast, other times it does not. I then drain the cooled wort (50-60 degrees) from the kettle into the fermenter (another temperature change) on top of the yeast. Typically within 12 hours it has warmed up enough so that fermentation has started. In the winter everything starts out much cooler then in the summer. Have I detected a difference? Nope. If I were pitching store bought liquid yeast (small liquid volume) that was refrigerated, I would let it warm up some on the theory that it would not hurt (if I remembered to take it out of the fridge early). To summarize: Wort temperature (for ales): at or below fermentation temperature. Re-hydrated yeast: follow typical instructions on the packet. 1-2 qt liquid starter: pour off the beer and pitch. Store bought liquid yeast: pitch. The last 2 may be controversial, but they work for me. Reif Hammond Durham, NH Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 23:33:35 -0500 From: Bob Sheck <bsheck at skantech.net> Subject: Bottle sanitizing After initial cleaning all the cigar butts and bugs out of my bottles, I always rinsed them clean, then put little squares of foil on the tops, then put them into the oven at 350F for an hour, let cool and then fill with beer. Never had a problem with bottle infection. Of course, now I keg. When I counter-pressure-fill for the odd competition I enter, I just soak in Iodophor and drip-dry for the few-odd bottles that need to be filled. Bob Sheck // DEA - Down East Alers - Greenville, NC bsheck at skantech.net // [583.2,140.6] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 23:11:38 -0800 From: Nathan Kanous <nlkanous at pharmacy.wisc.edu> Subject: Re: Cherry Concentrate Hi Everyone, I bought my concentrate from Country Mill Orchard in Michigan. The gentleman told me that the vacuum distiller costs somewhere in the neighborhood of $500,000 and that some cooperative in weste Michigan bought one. That means that all of this cherry concentrate is probably coming from the same place. Search for "sour cherry concentrate" or "sour cherry juice" with Google and find the lowest bidder. nathan in madison, wi At 09:05 AM 2/2/02 -0500, you wrote: >Hi Nathan, >What brand and type(some are sweetened) cherry concentrate did you use? >Cheers, >Pete Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 04:49:37 -0500 From: "Steve Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: Grain/Water Ratio and other mashing techniques Fred L. Johnson writes ... > In his book, Burch states, "The standard > ratio of water to grain is 1.1 quarts of water for every pound of grain", [...] I checked my references. M&BS suggests infusion mashes of 1.6 to 3.2 hectoliter/100kg, and a total (mash+sparge water) of 8.1hL/100kg. That's 0.77qt/lb to 1.53qt/lb for the mash and a total of 3.88qt/lb total water. For decoction M&BS suggests 3.3-5hL/100kg or 1.58 to 2.5qt/lb. Altho' M&BS gives a wide range for infusion mashing, their examples use 2.7L/kg or 2.75L/kg (1.28-1.32qt/L) for infusion mashes. Kunze suggests 3-3.5hL/100kg (1.44-1.68qt/lb) for dark beers, since the thicker wort encourages caramelization, and 4-5hL/100kg (1.92-2.4 qt/lb) for light colored (pale) beers. J.S Hough in "The Biotechnology of Malting and Brewing" states 2.7L/kg (1.3qt/lb) is the figure. Terry Foster in the early PaleAle booklet suggest 1qt/lb. - -- I'm not troubled by 1.1 qt/lb, but mashing below 1qt/lb is likely to give erratic results. There is a "knee" in the activity curves that occurs around 0.9qt/lb. Small variations in the amount of water below 1/qt/lb will make a big difference in the enzyme activity, conversion time and even extraction rate. 1.25-1.5qt/lb is a good range, well above the trouble-zone around 0.9qt/lb and yet thick enough to get a quick conversion. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 09:11:24 -0500 From: john.mcgowan at us.abb.com Subject: Re: Further stuck fermentation RJ of the Lakes region responded to my query: John McGowan of NJ: john.mcgowan at us.abb.com wrote: <snip> OG: 1.072 Split batch: 5 gal with WLP005 (British Ale); 5 gal with WLP051 (California V) Aerated very well, but didn't have time to build up starters, so pitched directly from vials. After six days gravity was down to 1.030 (in both carboys), with no activity in the airlock. Roused the yeast -- No further activity. One day later added 2.5 tsp of yeast nutrient (ID Carlson) to each and shook. No change. Repeated previous step two days later. Still nothing. After 14 days, gravity of both is still 1.030 The beer is still a bit sweet and even masks the 10 oz of Centennial. I was shooting for a FG of 1.018 - 1.022. Your thoughts?" "PS: I was intending to dump a stout on this yeast this weekend. Good or bad idea?" <snip> Well John, 1st two things I'd like to know is what temp(s) did you mash at & how old was the yeast? 2nd, until you can find the common cause of the current problem, I wouldn't re-use that yeast. Ciao, RJ 43:30:3.298N x 71:39:9.911W Lakes Region of NH Reply: This was a single infusion mash at 154F for 90 minutes. Both vials of yeast had a "Best before 04-17-02" stamp on them, so I presume they were pretty fresh. So the same questions stand. (Unfortunately, the Superbowl and family obligations trumped my brewing plans) :-(( JM Hopewell, NJ Comments? Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 12:26:58 -0500 From: Steve C Cobble <stevecobble at juno.com> Subject: Yeast questions...... I'm very new to homebrewing ( just got #1 in the fermenter 5 days ago ), and it seems their are some quite learned people on this list. I have a few questions: How important is the amount of yeast used in brewing? Can you add too much or too little?? How would these affect the final product? Also, when reactivating dry yeast, would it make a difference to do so with some of the cooled wort, or just with water, as the 'beer kit' instructs? TIA SteveCobble Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 14:34:16 -0500 From: "Bob Hall" <rallenhall at hotmail.com> Subject: RE: historical beer /yeast Thought you might enjoy this excerpt from "The Lager Beer Industry in 19th Century America," by John Hall (no relation), German Life magazine, Dec/Jan, 1996. ***************************** A friend Wagner watched nervouly as Jacob Best fingered the dried bricks of brown crud. Brewing German-style lager beer in American had been a great idea. Or so Wagner thought. There were millions of Germans already in America. But until 1840, all attempts to import the delicate lager yeast had failed, and thirsty Germans were forced to drink the allegedly inferior British-style ales, porters, and stout. Then Wagner wrote to his brother who worked at a Munich brewery, and told him to mix the yeast from the bottom of a fermenting vat with sawdust, then dry the mixture in bread pans and ship them to Milwaukee. No sooner had Wagner parted with the money to cover the shipping cost then he decided that the whole idea was pure "Dummheit," so he went to Jacob Best hoping to reclaim some of his loss. At the time, most American breweries were backyard affairs: a wooden shed with a brew kettle over an open fire, a 13 barrel capacity storage cellar, and a couple of hundred barrels a year in sales ... if you were lucky. Jacob Best had a larger operation - with storage for about 1,000 barrels - which he ran with his four sons. This left Best in a better position to speculate on crackbrained schemes like brewing lager beer from cruddy cakes of sawdust. But Best wanted to see the yeast first. So in 1841, Rhenish immigrant Jacob Best stood in his brewery in Milwaukee, fingering cakes of yeast that had been dried in Munich, and thinking to himself that it just might work. Best reached into his pocket and pulled out a $5 bill. Wagner took the money, and history has not even recorded his first name. As for Best, he dissolved the dried cakes in water, filtered out the sawdust, and added the yeasty water to his next batch of beer. It was awful. ...... It had been several years since Best had brewed lager in Metlenheim but he and his sons kept trying, and within six months they were producing a decent product for Milwaukee Germans. ..... Best's 1,000 barrel a year operation soon doubled, and by 1860 he retired and turned the operation over to a flamboyant son-in-law, Captain Fredrick Pabst." ***************************** Bob Hall, Napoleon, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 18:51:41 -0500 From: "Ralph Davis" <rdavis77 at erols.com> Subject: Re: Newbie question [Hydrating/pitching dry yeast] Hey Walt: I've converted from using dry yeast to liquid yeast over the last year...the fermentation usually takes off tremendously that way. Even with liquid yeast, White Labs or Wyeast, I always use a starter wort. However, for economy sake, dried yeast is fine. The yeast companies usually say to re-hydrate it in warm water like you said, but I think it would depend on the temperature of the yeast--I don't think I'd put yeast straight from the fridge into 90 degree water--you don't want to shock it. Best and easiest though is to make a starter wort the day before brewing.... To do this dump 3/4 a cup of dried malt extract into a pint mason jar (or for even better results use a full quart container), add water until its at a good OG (1.040?) , microwave it for like 10 mins (you can add a few pellets of hops to keep it from boiling over), then cap it, and cool it (I usually set in in the refrigerator for a couple hours). When at room temperature, pitch all your yeast into this starter, and put an airlock on the jar, shake it vigorously for a few minutes and set it aside (Best is using an Erlenmyer flask for this as you can boil this mini-wort right on the stove that way, and airlocks fit easily on top.....but those things cost something--often I've just loosened the mason jar's cap...) Then brew the full wort the next day and pitch this starter into your cooled wort. You'll get VERY energetic fermentations that way as you are actually pitching a LOT more yeast. The Czechs apparently always over-pitch their yeast--and that's good enough for me! Ralph W. Davis Leesburg, Virginia [395.2, 121.8] Apparent Rennerian "Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." -Benjamin Franklin Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 21:42:29 -0500 From: "Chris Hatton" <chrishatton23 at hotmail.com> Subject: carbonation chart in british In the HBD website, there is a great chart which has on the x axis grams/liter of dextrose, on the y axis total Volume of CO2 in atmospheres. It plots the carbonation levels of beers at various temperatures in celsius. Is there a chart which expresses the priming sugar and degrees in british units posted somewhere on the Internet or in someone's hard drive?? ? I think there is one in the old BT mag from July/Aug 96, but you have to order the back issue and I would like it sooner and freer. Anyone? Thank you in advance... Private response OK/preferred Chris Hatton Hoboken, NJ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 23:23:21 -0500 From: "Ralph Davis" <rdavis77 at erols.com> Subject: Suitable beer clarifiers... I know every brewer has his special technique for clarifying--but I'm curious as to the collectives' varied views anyway. What clarifier works most consistently the best (without effecting flavour)? I use Irish moss toward the end of the boil, and I've been using Polyclar in the 2ndary fermentation. Just recently I have 2 beers in 2ndary, a Schwartzbier and a Double Bock. After a few weeks both had crud still floating around the top of the carboy and looked pretty murky(esp. in the Bock). I wanted to try something new besides polyclar so I combined a teaspoon of polyclar AND a tablespoon of Bentonite into a pint of water and boiled it for 10 mins. I don't hear much about bentonite for beer--it seems to be more used in wines, and I'm wondering if anyone knows why(?)... Anyway, after it cooled I poured the gunk into the Double Bock and wham(!) the next day 2 to 3 inches of crud dropped out of solution. Such amounts have never occurred to me while using polyclar alone. I've wracked the bock into another sanitized carboy and the murkiness is gone; it looks remarkably clear for a darker beer. Anyway for the Schwartzbier I wanted to be a bit more gentle, so I just added a teaspoon of polyclar with a cup of water(boiled). Two days later nothing very noticeable dropped out visible in the carboy. Still murky with crud floating around, so I added bentonite earlier today and now again 2+ inches of crud have piled up in the bottom of the carboy. I hope bentonite isn't too strong, as I'd hate to lose the special flavours of these unique lagers--also with the schwartzbier I want to keep it as black as possible... Anyway: Opinions? Expert (or semi-expert) explanations or views? Any better clarifiers? Gelatin? Cold storage? Non-cloudy beer is nice to have, so I'd like to hear what y'all say... Ralph W. Davis Leesburg, Virginia [395.2, 121.8] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
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