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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  Re:  uses for spent grains (CRF)
  Re:  Homebrew Digest #390 (April 03, 1990) (Steve Lamont)
  Re: Yeast and cultivating ... (Charlie Woloszynski)
  RE:  Jump-start that yeast! (D_KRUS)
  Even more barleywine (Mark Freeman)
  RE: Filtering hops pellets (Mark Freeman)
  Pellets compared to Leaf Hops ("David_Ingalls.WBST129")
  Re:  Homebrew Digest #390 (April 03, 1990) (peloquin)
  Michael Jackson's "The Beer Hunter" (John Mellby)
  honey and bacteria (florianb)


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Date: Tue, 3 Apr 90 06:01 EST
From: CRF at PINE.CIRCA.UFL.EDU
Subject: Re:  uses for spent grains

Hi, All!

As can be seen from my tag lines, I work in the agricultural section of UF.  
So, I just thought I would second Don Perley's remarks by saying that Dried
Distillers Grains (or DDG, as its commonly known) has come to be looked on as
a basic cattle feed ingredient.  Insofar as I know, its use as such has become
widespread; any cattle farmer would know what "DDG" is. 

It might also interest you to know that the stuff makes a feed barn smell
*great*!  :-) 


                         Yours in Carbonation,

                                      Cher 


"The first cup of coffee recapitulates phylogeny."  --  Anon.
=============================================================================

	Cheryl Feinstein              INTERNET:  CRF at PINE.CIRCA.UFL.EDU
	Univ. of Fla.                 BITNET:  CRF at UFPINE
	Gainesville, FL

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Date: Tue, 3 Apr 90 07:04:06 EST
From: Steve Lamont <spl at ncsc.ncsc.org>
Subject: Re:  Homebrew Digest #390 (April 03, 1990)

In Homebrew Digest #390 (April 03, 1990) Stuart Crawford <stuart at ads.com> sez:
> Subject: hydrogen sulphide odor

>                                                                 ... I detect
> a strong rotten egg (hydrogen sulphide?) odor coming through the airlock on my
> primary.  ...
> A few extra details...

> 	1.  There are two pounds of honey in the wort (also a first)
> 	2.  I made 16oz of yeast starter instead of just using the amount
>             provided by Wyeast

> Bottom line: is this batch a loss?

Am I wrong in assuming that this is the yeast reacting with the honey?  In
_Brewing Mead_ by Robert Gayre with Charlie Papazian, he mentions in passing
that meads give off sulphur dioxide gas in the early stages of fermentation.
This stuff, while it doesn't smell of hydrogen sulphide, is pretty strong.
Maybe this is what you smell.

							spl
Steve Lamont, sciViGuy	(919) 248-1120		EMail:	spl at ncsc.org
NCSC, Box 12732, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709
"...though you may have the falcon yet we certainly have you."
				Dashiell Hammett, _The Maltese Falcon_

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Date: Tue, 3 Apr 90 09:15:57 EDT
From: chw at barnardstar.bellcore.com (Charlie Woloszynski)
Subject: Re: Yeast and cultivating ...

Russ,
   The AHA published an excellent special Zymurgy on Yeast (Special '89).
I believe they are still selling it as a special order.  I heartily 
recommend getting it (and Zymurgy in general).  Sorry, I don't have 
the AHA's address at work.  If no else supplies it, I'll bring it 
later in the week.

Charlie Woloszynski
Bellcore
chw at aries.bellcore.com


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Date:     Tue, 3 Apr 90 12:45 EST
From: <D_KRUS%UNHH.BITNET at MITVMA.MIT.EDU>
Subject:  RE:  Jump-start that yeast!

Distribution-File:
        homebrew%hpfcmr at hplabs.hp.com

Hi,

  I'll briefly like to describe my experience with slow yeast respiratory
cycles.  I brewed a batch of beer with an OG 1.056.  I used Whitbread
Lager Yeast.  I pitched at a temp of 24deg C and then placed my primary in
a room with a temp of 12deg C.  It took at least TWO days for fermentation
to begin.  So, the plan was:  boil for one hour 30 mL Malt Extract and 5 hop
pellets in 500 mL water.  Strain out hops. Cool to 24deg C.  Pitch yeast and
leave at 24deg C for 24 hours. Reduce temp to 12deg C.  With this process
the same yeast started fermenting in 24 hour (all of this obviously with an
air lock).  I left it at this temp for 2 days.  When making my next batch of
beer, I pitched this starter at 24deg C and left my primary at this temp for
24 hours.  I had fermentation in 4 HOURS! And by the next day fermentation
was at a maximum rate.  This is now my set procedure for Jump-starting yeast.

                                  Dan

|--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*|
| Bitnet:      D_KRUS at unhh                      | Daniel L. Krus               |
| Internet:    D_KRUS%unhh.bitnet at mitvma.mit.edu| Parsons Hall                 |
| Compuserve:  71601,365                        | Department of Chemistry      |
|-----------------------------------------------| U of New Hampshire           |
|  "Think as men/women of action,               | Durham, New Hampshire  03824 |
|         act as men/women of thought.          | (603) 862-2521               |
|--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*|

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Date: Tue, 3 Apr 90 09:42 PDT
From: Mark Freeman <MFreeman at VERMITHRAX.SCH.Symbolics.COM>
Subject: Even more barleywine

As for available imports, isn't Thomas Hardy made in the
barleywine style?  (I could never justify the cost, so I've
never actually tried it)  Also, I think Anchor used to make a
barleywine called Old Foghorn but, alas, I don't think it has
been produced for some time, has it?


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Date: Tue, 3 Apr 90 09:58 PDT
From: Mark Freeman <MFreeman at VERMITHRAX.SCH.Symbolics.COM>
Subject: RE: Filtering hops pellets


    
    I am a happy new homebrewer.  Of course that means I have questions.
    The beers I have made to date call for hop pellets.  I was wondering if
    I need to try to filter the wort after boiling to try to remove what I
    can of the hop pellets.  I have filtered the wort through cheesecloth as
    I put it into the fermenter.  It stops alot of stuff, but much gets
    through. I guess that approximately 50% of the hop pellets get through
    into the fermenter.  Again, should I even be trying to remove the hop
    pellets?  And if so, am I removing enough?
    
    Thank you for your support (in advance).
    
    - --albert smith

What I do is wrap the pellets (or hops buds if that's what I'm
using) in cheesecloth and tie it shut with a string to make a
large hops "teabag".  I make sure to leave lots of room for the
pellets to expand (about 2'x2' piece for each bag).   When I tie
the string, I leave a long loose end that dangles outside the
pot so that I can easily grab it and lift the bag out at the end
of the boil.  Then I hold the bag over the boil and squeeze any
liquid out with a pair of tongs to increase the utilization.
The spent hops are then easily disposed of.  I like this method
better than straining after the boil because it's easier, more
effective and I'm concerned about contamination from the
cheesecloth used for straining.

By the way, it seems that I get better utilization with pellets
than with buds of the same alpha %.  Can anyone confirm this?

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Date: 2 Apr 90 13:57:14 PDT (Monday)
From: "David_Ingalls.WBST129" at Xerox.COM
Subject: Pellets compared to Leaf Hops

I brewed up a batch of pale ale a few weeks back.  The recipe came from an
1986 issue of Zymurgy.  The recipe was for 5 gallons and had 6.6 lbs light
malt extract.

It specified:
1 oz. Northern Brewer hops for first 30 minutes of boil
1 oz. Cascade hops for second 30 minutes of boil
1 oz. Cascade hops for final 30 minutes of boil
1/4 oz. Cascade for dry hopping

I didn't bother with the 1/4 oz. dry hopping.

It's now been in the bottle for a week and I've tasted it.  The resulting
beer is very bitter.  It isn't so bitter that it's undrinkable but you
probably wouldn't want it to be any more bitter.

Maybe the beer is supposed to be this bitter.  Anyway ...

My question has to do with pelletized hops vs leaf hops.  I used hop
pellets ounce for ounce in the recipe.  Was this a mistake?  Is there some
known relation that say's that I should have used less of the pelletized
hops?  Perhaps the recipe was for leaf hops and this would account for a
difference.  Is that true?  Can anybody suggest guidelines concerning this?

Also - is an hour and a half of boiling too much boiling?

Thanks,

   - David

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Date: Tue, 3 Apr 90 14:16:00 EDT
From: peloquin at qtp.ufl.edu
Subject: Re:  Homebrew Digest #390 (April 03, 1990)

Help!  I have enjoyed this mailing list, but now I HAVE to unsubscribe!
I have been trying for a couple of weeks with no success so far!

I first tried sending to homebrew-request, as I was advised when I originally
subscribed, but received strange complaints from the mailer-daemon ther
about being unable to create output.  I tried several other usernames,,
including homebrew, which I thought might get SOMEONE's attention.
I tried again last friday, but I am STILL receiving the digest!  Does anybody
have any suggestions?  Does anybody know the US Mail adress of the 
keeper-of-the  mailing list?

Renee Mattie
peloquin at qtp.ufl.edu

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Date: Tue, 3 Apr 90 13:36:37 CDT
From: jmellby at ngstl1.csc.ti.com (John Mellby)
Subject: Michael Jackson's "The Beer Hunter"

This TV show will be starting in the USA on August 23rd, Thursday,
on the Discovery channel.

More information direct from the Bluebonnet Homebrew Conference and
Competition shortly.

John R. Mellby
jmellby at ngstl1.ti.com

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Date: 03 Apr 90 12:58:47 PDT (Tue)
From: florianb at tekred.cna.tek.com
Subject: honey and bacteria

"Doug," in #389 quoted from a reference text on honey and beehives, and 
indicated information as to the antibacterial properties of honey.  It is
my understanding that honey can contain a bacteria which has been known
to be fatal to children under the age of two years.  Being a father, I
was aware of this and forbid my child from having honey for the first two
years.  The presence of this bacteria (pointed out in the baby books) 
suggests that anti-bacterial properties of honey are only partial. In any
case, I don't think there is anything to lose by boiling honey during the
mead- or beer-making process.

Florian


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End of HOMEBREW Digest #391, 04/04/90
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