HOMEBREW Digest #391 Wed 04 April 1990

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Re:  uses for spent grains (CRF)
  Re:  Homebrew Digest #390 (April 03, 1990) (Steve Lamont)
  Re: Yeast and cultivating ... (Charlie Woloszynski)
  RE:  Jump-start that yeast! (D_KRUS)
  Even more barleywine (Mark Freeman)
  RE: Filtering hops pellets (Mark Freeman)
  Pellets compared to Leaf Hops ("David_Ingalls.WBST129")
  Re:  Homebrew Digest #390 (April 03, 1990) (peloquin)
  Michael Jackson's "The Beer Hunter" (John Mellby)
  honey and bacteria (florianb)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 3 Apr 90 06:01 EST From: CRF at PINE.CIRCA.UFL.EDU Subject: Re: uses for spent grains Hi, All! As can be seen from my tag lines, I work in the agricultural section of UF. So, I just thought I would second Don Perley's remarks by saying that Dried Distillers Grains (or DDG, as its commonly known) has come to be looked on as a basic cattle feed ingredient. Insofar as I know, its use as such has become widespread; any cattle farmer would know what "DDG" is. It might also interest you to know that the stuff makes a feed barn smell *great*! :-) Yours in Carbonation, Cher "The first cup of coffee recapitulates phylogeny." -- Anon. ============================================================================= Cheryl Feinstein INTERNET: CRF at PINE.CIRCA.UFL.EDU Univ. of Fla. BITNET: CRF at UFPINE Gainesville, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 90 07:04:06 EST From: Steve Lamont <spl at ncsc.ncsc.org> Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #390 (April 03, 1990) In Homebrew Digest #390 (April 03, 1990) Stuart Crawford <stuart at ads.com> sez: > Subject: hydrogen sulphide odor > ... I detect > a strong rotten egg (hydrogen sulphide?) odor coming through the airlock on my > primary. ... > A few extra details... > 1. There are two pounds of honey in the wort (also a first) > 2. I made 16oz of yeast starter instead of just using the amount > provided by Wyeast > Bottom line: is this batch a loss? Am I wrong in assuming that this is the yeast reacting with the honey? In _Brewing Mead_ by Robert Gayre with Charlie Papazian, he mentions in passing that meads give off sulphur dioxide gas in the early stages of fermentation. This stuff, while it doesn't smell of hydrogen sulphide, is pretty strong. Maybe this is what you smell. spl Steve Lamont, sciViGuy (919) 248-1120 EMail: spl at ncsc.org NCSC, Box 12732, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709 "...though you may have the falcon yet we certainly have you." Dashiell Hammett, _The Maltese Falcon_ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 90 09:15:57 EDT From: chw at barnardstar.bellcore.com (Charlie Woloszynski) Subject: Re: Yeast and cultivating ... Russ, The AHA published an excellent special Zymurgy on Yeast (Special '89). I believe they are still selling it as a special order. I heartily recommend getting it (and Zymurgy in general). Sorry, I don't have the AHA's address at work. If no else supplies it, I'll bring it later in the week. Charlie Woloszynski Bellcore chw at aries.bellcore.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 90 12:45 EST From: <D_KRUS%UNHH.BITNET at MITVMA.MIT.EDU> Subject: RE: Jump-start that yeast! Distribution-File: homebrew%hpfcmr at hplabs.hp.com Hi, I'll briefly like to describe my experience with slow yeast respiratory cycles. I brewed a batch of beer with an OG 1.056. I used Whitbread Lager Yeast. I pitched at a temp of 24deg C and then placed my primary in a room with a temp of 12deg C. It took at least TWO days for fermentation to begin. So, the plan was: boil for one hour 30 mL Malt Extract and 5 hop pellets in 500 mL water. Strain out hops. Cool to 24deg C. Pitch yeast and leave at 24deg C for 24 hours. Reduce temp to 12deg C. With this process the same yeast started fermenting in 24 hour (all of this obviously with an air lock). I left it at this temp for 2 days. When making my next batch of beer, I pitched this starter at 24deg C and left my primary at this temp for 24 hours. I had fermentation in 4 HOURS! And by the next day fermentation was at a maximum rate. This is now my set procedure for Jump-starting yeast. Dan |--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*| | Bitnet: D_KRUS at unhh | Daniel L. Krus | | Internet: D_KRUS%unhh.bitnet at mitvma.mit.edu| Parsons Hall | | Compuserve: 71601,365 | Department of Chemistry | |-----------------------------------------------| U of New Hampshire | | "Think as men/women of action, | Durham, New Hampshire 03824 | | act as men/women of thought. | (603) 862-2521 | |--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*| Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 90 09:42 PDT From: Mark Freeman <MFreeman at VERMITHRAX.SCH.Symbolics.COM> Subject: Even more barleywine As for available imports, isn't Thomas Hardy made in the barleywine style? (I could never justify the cost, so I've never actually tried it) Also, I think Anchor used to make a barleywine called Old Foghorn but, alas, I don't think it has been produced for some time, has it? Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 90 09:58 PDT From: Mark Freeman <MFreeman at VERMITHRAX.SCH.Symbolics.COM> Subject: RE: Filtering hops pellets I am a happy new homebrewer. Of course that means I have questions. The beers I have made to date call for hop pellets. I was wondering if I need to try to filter the wort after boiling to try to remove what I can of the hop pellets. I have filtered the wort through cheesecloth as I put it into the fermenter. It stops alot of stuff, but much gets through. I guess that approximately 50% of the hop pellets get through into the fermenter. Again, should I even be trying to remove the hop pellets? And if so, am I removing enough? Thank you for your support (in advance). - --albert smith What I do is wrap the pellets (or hops buds if that's what I'm using) in cheesecloth and tie it shut with a string to make a large hops "teabag". I make sure to leave lots of room for the pellets to expand (about 2'x2' piece for each bag). When I tie the string, I leave a long loose end that dangles outside the pot so that I can easily grab it and lift the bag out at the end of the boil. Then I hold the bag over the boil and squeeze any liquid out with a pair of tongs to increase the utilization. The spent hops are then easily disposed of. I like this method better than straining after the boil because it's easier, more effective and I'm concerned about contamination from the cheesecloth used for straining. By the way, it seems that I get better utilization with pellets than with buds of the same alpha %. Can anyone confirm this? Return to table of contents
Date: 2 Apr 90 13:57:14 PDT (Monday) From: "David_Ingalls.WBST129" at Xerox.COM Subject: Pellets compared to Leaf Hops I brewed up a batch of pale ale a few weeks back. The recipe came from an 1986 issue of Zymurgy. The recipe was for 5 gallons and had 6.6 lbs light malt extract. It specified: 1 oz. Northern Brewer hops for first 30 minutes of boil 1 oz. Cascade hops for second 30 minutes of boil 1 oz. Cascade hops for final 30 minutes of boil 1/4 oz. Cascade for dry hopping I didn't bother with the 1/4 oz. dry hopping. It's now been in the bottle for a week and I've tasted it. The resulting beer is very bitter. It isn't so bitter that it's undrinkable but you probably wouldn't want it to be any more bitter. Maybe the beer is supposed to be this bitter. Anyway ... My question has to do with pelletized hops vs leaf hops. I used hop pellets ounce for ounce in the recipe. Was this a mistake? Is there some known relation that say's that I should have used less of the pelletized hops? Perhaps the recipe was for leaf hops and this would account for a difference. Is that true? Can anybody suggest guidelines concerning this? Also - is an hour and a half of boiling too much boiling? Thanks, - David Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 90 14:16:00 EDT From: peloquin at qtp.ufl.edu Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #390 (April 03, 1990) Help! I have enjoyed this mailing list, but now I HAVE to unsubscribe! I have been trying for a couple of weeks with no success so far! I first tried sending to homebrew-request, as I was advised when I originally subscribed, but received strange complaints from the mailer-daemon ther about being unable to create output. I tried several other usernames,, including homebrew, which I thought might get SOMEONE's attention. I tried again last friday, but I am STILL receiving the digest! Does anybody have any suggestions? Does anybody know the US Mail adress of the keeper-of-the mailing list? Renee Mattie peloquin at qtp.ufl.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 90 13:36:37 CDT From: jmellby at ngstl1.csc.ti.com (John Mellby) Subject: Michael Jackson's "The Beer Hunter" This TV show will be starting in the USA on August 23rd, Thursday, on the Discovery channel. More information direct from the Bluebonnet Homebrew Conference and Competition shortly. John R. Mellby jmellby at ngstl1.ti.com Return to table of contents
Date: 03 Apr 90 12:58:47 PDT (Tue) From: florianb at tekred.cna.tek.com Subject: honey and bacteria "Doug," in #389 quoted from a reference text on honey and beehives, and indicated information as to the antibacterial properties of honey. It is my understanding that honey can contain a bacteria which has been known to be fatal to children under the age of two years. Being a father, I was aware of this and forbid my child from having honey for the first two years. The presence of this bacteria (pointed out in the baby books) suggests that anti-bacterial properties of honey are only partial. In any case, I don't think there is anything to lose by boiling honey during the mead- or beer-making process. Florian Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #391, 04/04/90 ************************************* -------
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