HOMEBREW Digest #3978 Tue 02 July 2002

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  Mosquito attractant ("Joseph S. Gaglio")
  Wiring HELP!!! ("Aaron Gallaway")
  Cornmeal ("John Misrahi")
  GFCI clarification ("Michael Maag")
  boil time, 240 Volts, Boddington's, refractometer ("Dave Burley")
  RE: RIMS Heating Elements ("Steven Parfitt")
  "Making" beer ready for the 4th (Marc Sedam)
  US Electrical System - 240V (Calvin Perilloux)
  4th Annual Palmetto State Brewers' Open ("H. Dowda")
  Gypsum & Bottle Chilling ("Hedglin, Nils A")
  SG & Alcohol  As of 7/1/02 ("Pete Calinski")
  Partial mash modified batch sparge (John Sarette)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 02:39:25 -0400 From: "Joseph S. Gaglio" <jgaglio at tampabay.rr.com> Subject: Mosquito attractant > ...mosquito landing[s] on volunteers significantly increased after > beer ingestion compared with before ingestion...drinking alcohol > stimulates mosquito attraction... > > That mosquitoes might be attracted to ethanol is an interesting concept. > Of course, another study may well come out next month refuting this > correlation, which seems compellingly circumstantial but not necessarily > proven causal. > The breakdown products of consumed alcohol include H2O and CO2. Carbon dioxide is what mosquitos home in on. joe - -- Yours in truth, Joseph S. Gaglio MHS http://members.tripod.com/~The_Holeyman/TheHoleymansHome.html "They counted on being able to punish them into being better, on being able to inspire them into being better, on being able to educate them into being better. And after ten thousand years of trying to improve people, without a trace of success -- they wouldn't dream of turning their attention elsewhere." Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 05:35:10 -0700 From: "Aaron Gallaway" <baseball_junkie at hotmail.com> Subject: Wiring HELP!!! Electronics gurus, Aaron in Japan here again. I am just about to brew my wedding beer... an Oktoberfest Marzen. I have just finished building a 2 fermentor "Son of the fermentation chiller". It's dual ice chambers are capable of holding 6 2liter bottles each. NOW, for the tough part. I have mounted computer fans on BOTH baffles. I got a good deal on a digital Thermo and I bought a 24VAC 40 VA adapter. I can't seem to get things going. Here are the details... The adapter has 3 terminals AC,G,AC(in that order from left to right on the adapter) The Thermo has 4 terminals marked R, W, G, Y R-power in W-Heating and Heating damper Y-AC and AC damper G-Fan When I connected a wire from either AC terminal on the adapter to the R terminal on the thermo...Nadda!!! Any ideas?? Before you tell me, I know the SOFC instructions say don't use the digital thermos...It was all I could get in a pinch. Thanks in advance for your help. If you email me prvately I can send you digi photos of each unit. Aaron Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 08:44:26 -0700 From: "John Misrahi" <lmoukhin at sprint.ca> Subject: Cornmeal If I want to use corn meal in a mash , in place of brewers' flaked corn, do I need to cook it first? thanks John Misrahi Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 08:40:51 -0400 From: "Michael Maag" <MichaelMaag at doli.state.va.us> Subject: GFCI clarification In Steve A's post on Many things, the seeming requirement for a ground for a GFCI to function is misleading. >A third wire representing an earth ground is also routed to all modern sockets & 240vac circuits, but not to lights or older style (pre 1960s) outlets. The earth ground design permits the use of ground-fault-circuit- interrupter(GFCI) sockets which are often required in kitchens, baths, basements. You can also obtain GFCI- breakers for some makes of breaker-box. GFCIs break the circuit if there is any current mismath in the two current carrying wires (for example if you are getting shocked).> A GFCI will function properly when wired to an un-grounded circuit. As Steve noted, the GFCI detects current differences in the hot and neutral. This design is necessary to insure the GFCI will function even if the grounding connection is lost. Hope this helps, Mike Maag, Industrial Safety Inspector Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 09:26:54 -0400 From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley at charter.net> Subject: boil time, 240 Volts, Boddington's, refractometer Sorry, this was sent to the wrong HBD address, so is a little out of date. Thanks Janitors for all your patience. Brewsters: Paul Kensler is correctly suspicious when told that boil time affects fermentability and mouth feel, especially if malt enzymes affecting these characteristics are implicated. On the subject of % fermentability, all activity of conversion of starches and dextrins by malt enzymes which affects the ratio of fermentable to unfermentable carbohydrates ( % fermentability) ceases as the temperature rises above 160+ F, so no effect on % fermentability after the beginning of the boil. Boil time as Paul correctly asserts affects hop extraction efficiency (which can affect protein co-precipitation) , inversion of the hops acids and evaporation of the hops oils and color from extracted hops anthocyanids and oxidation. So it is possible that a longer boil time under our typical homebrew conditions can affect mouth feel by 1) protein ( which is the source of mouth feel and not dextrins according to experts) co-precipitation with hops components as well as 2) denaturization of the albuminoids and consequent precipitation due to longer boiling 3) extraction of more bitter components from the hops 4) darken the wort color due to extraction of plant colorants and 5) oxidation , but not because of brewing conditions brought about by malt enzymes. - -------------------------- Dave from Oz is planning on moving to the Windy City and bringing his RIMS equipment. He writes asking about the availability of 240V service in the typical home. It is readily available and only amounts to running the proper service wire from the circuit breaker box.. We also have 60 cycle current which may affect your pump motors if they are set up to operate at 50 cycles. - --------------------- Greg unless your wife has enjoyed Boddington's on tap at its home in Manchester, UK, chances are a clone will not match her desires. Unfortunately, the newest fizzie in a can totally ruins Boddy giving it a metallic taste and thin body totally unlike the real stuff. IMHO. This was presumably fresh Boddy that was hand carried from the UK. But it was a few years ago, so it may have improved. - --------------------- Pete Calinski is suggesting a mind game ( and an actual experiment) to calibrate a refractometer for use in an alcohol/water/sugar solution. It can be done. But if you choose to do it, why not use vodka ( 70% - read the bottle) as a source of ethanol rather than the isopropanol ( rubbing alcohol) you suggested, which often has other things in it and is not as accurate in its percent composition as the government regulated vodka? Remember you are measuring the refraction of light as an indicator of composition. Different sugars, although close in values, have diffferent refractive indexes. I haven't sat down and done any calculations but it seems with a three component system ( water, sugar, alcohol) the possibility of more than one composition giving the same refractometer reading exists and may add some confusion to the interpretation, especially when you have a complex system such as beer. .Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 09:32:44 -0400 From: "Steven Parfitt" <the_gimp98 at hotmail.com> Subject: RE: RIMS Heating Elements A couple quick notes on RIMS Heating Elements. 1) Sample size 3, three manufacturers, Heating element bases will not rust. Heating element bases and elements are copper with a metalic coating. I'm not sure what the exact heating element composition is, mechanically speaking. It appears that there is a central core of Nicrome wire which is the actual resistance element. Over this is an insulating coating which appears to be ceramic. The copper sheithing covers this, and is plated with the white metalic coating. 2)I believe the coating is tin. The coating can be removed with the standard pickling solution of Vinegar and Hydrogen Peroxide. You will need a tall thin vase, or other vessel to hold the solution while stripping the heater if you decide to do so. Try not to get the solution on the phenolic base with the connectors (Screw Terminals) as this could interfere with proper electrical connection later. I'm moving from my old house to a new house(for me anyway). Brewing equpt is in various boxes so I'm hoping I have good luck in moving it and don't loose anything. How I managed to loose a jar of keys, box of yard sale stuf, and the only MO Diskette copy of my Sportster rebuild when moving 3 miles with a pick-up truck totally escapes me. I'm suffering from "Brewing Withdrawl".... Steven, -75 XLCH- Ironhead Nano-Brewery http://thegimp.8k.com Johnson City, TN [422.7, 169.2] Rennerian "Fools you are... who say you like to learn from your mistakes.... I prefer to learn from the mistakes of others and avoid the cost of my own." Otto von Bismarck Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 10:30:09 -0400 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: "Making" beer ready for the 4th Bill sez... "I took another hydrometer reading and it is down to about 1.012. Last time fermentation seemed to stop at about 1.010 so it should be close, but I would like to get some CO2 into it and give it a chance to sit again after it was carbonated. Does anyone have any comments on this idea? Am I asking for trouble or to ruin an otherwise good batch of beer?" I may be a little late as you posted this on Saturday (more likely sent the post Friday) and it's Monday morning...but send that beer to a keg! If you KNOW when the beer is supposed to stop fermenting (in terms of SG), then you can rack to your serving vessel when the beer is about 0.002 SG units from completion. That would be now...or Friday...or whatever. The beer will finish fermenting but instead of having the CO2 leave the closed fermenter via airlock, it will carbonate your beer. I think this is called "spunding" but I forget. Anyway, since I never brew the same beer twice I lack the ability to do this with any accuracy. So brew as I say, not as I brew. :-) Cheers! Marc P.S. Great to meet some of y'all at the NHC. Sorry I couldn't make the official HBD lunch, but I was glad to see that mash hopping was being tried successfully by many of the brewers at the conference. Maybe next year in Chicago I can do a comparison of "regular" hopped beer, MH beer, and FWH beer. Sounds interesting.... - -- Marc Sedam Chapel Hill, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 07:33:16 -0700 (PDT) From: Calvin Perilloux <calvinperilloux at yahoo.com> Subject: US Electrical System - 240V Dave, the self-described confused Aussie, writes about bringing his Australian 240V RIMS systems with him to the States... No worries, Dave. Well, not toooo many worries, depending. Most houses in the USA do have 240V available, but the main question you'll have is whether it's accessible to you. If you've got a 240V dryer outlet, you're set! Well, I thought I was until the wife realised that I didn't really want the beer fridge unplugged every time she needed to do a load of clothes. If you're buying a house, you can run your own 240V line, or have an electrician do it. The "per code" sockets are not that same as you use in Australia, but that's a minor mattre of rewiring your RIMS cord to a US socket. (Installing the Aussie sockets in your wall, though it looks cool, won't win you any awards with the house inspector when you go to sell your house!) If you're renting, I don't know if your landlord would be too pleased at you running new electric lines, even if you do find room in the breaker box for them (which you might not in an apartment or even in some houses that are maxed out). Oh yeah, It is possible that you'll live in a place where you'll have a 240V outlet for window aircon units that oyu can use for your RIMS instead. Check the amps you'll draw if you have ideas of piggy-backing RIMS *and* and aircon unit, which is probably not a good idea anyway, given the large startup surges involved -- it'll probably be one of the other, beer or aircon! And failing all that, depending on your RIMS current requirements, you can get a 120v->240v transformer, keeping in mind that you'll really load that 120v circuit, since it'll draw twice the current through the 120v as you use at 240v, not to mention the added large inefficiency of the transformer. Actually, on second thought, NO. For large appliances and heating devices like you have, the cost of the transformer itself is just too high to justify, though that's an option for your other toys you might bring along. With my Aussie beer fridge purring away happily, here in the USA... Calvin Perilloux Middletown, Maryland, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 08:41:13 -0700 (PDT) From: "H. Dowda" <hdowda at yahoo.com> Subject: 4th Annual Palmetto State Brewers' Open The 4th is off and running. Innovations retained from last year include no category compression, all you care to enter for $32 and the Just Good Beer Brew-off. This year we are adding a Mead/Cider competition with its own BOS and cash awards of $50,30 and 20 for 1-2-3 in the AHA registered beer competition. September 28, 2002, deadline September 21, 2002 Full details: http://www.sagecat.com/psb.htm Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 09:25:58 -0700 From: "Hedglin, Nils A" <nils.a.hedglin at intel.com> Subject: Gypsum & Bottle Chilling Hi, I made some oatmeal stout last week & since we have a water softener, I was going to add some gypsum. Unfortunately, I was almost at the end of the mash when I realized I didn't know when to add it. Should it go in the mash liquor, or in the boil? I'm assuming the former, but added to the boil just in case. Also, I vaguely remember reading somewhere that if you chill a bottle of beer too fast, it might gush. Is this true? I had batch of brown ale that I bottled last week, in a room that was about 80 degrees. I stuck it in the freezer for about 30 minutes & when I opened it, it gushed out all over. I'm really hoping it's not contamenated or that I over carbonated it. Thanks, Nils Sacramento, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 16:28:11 -0400 From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net> Subject: SG & Alcohol As of 7/1/02 I will try here to summarize the responses and resolve conflicts. (And probably show my ignorance of the subject.) In my original post, I was trying to find a method of making "calibrated" solutions that simulate the solutions that evolve during the fermentation process. These solutions could then be used to correct the readings from a refractometer or other device. Louis said, - --------- "First, I think Pete is a tad confused with the terminology. Degrees Plato is nothing more than a metric based on sucrose solutions (e.g., 4 Plato is a density measurement equivalent to a 4% w/w solution of sucrose in pure water), as opposed to specific gravity, which is a metric of the ratio of the weight of the test solution to an identical volume of pure water " - ------------- I think that is exactly what I said. I said, +++++++++++++ "I will use what I think are the standard definitions of: Plato = (weight of sugar)/(weight of sugar + weight of water), SG = (weight of a volume of solution under test)/(weight of equal volume of pure water)". +++++++++++++ Although I didn't say sucrose explicitly. Louis then said, **************** "Oops, just noticed a mistake in my post . . I gave an example of a Plato measurement as "equivalent to a 4% w/w solution of sucrose in pure water." Wrongo. I should have said "equivalent to 4 g of sucrose in 100ml of solution." " **************** I think I prefer the first definition. The one with the Opps is only correct at the temperature where 1 ml water = 1 mg. (4 degrees C I believe). At other temperatures, the water expands. Louis then gets near the answer I wanted referencing his HBD posting and ProMash. I tried to use the posting from 7 Jan, 1999 before I posted the original on the subject but I couldn't get it to match ProMash. I will try again. Steve Alexander didn't like my definition of SG saying, /////////// ">SG = (weight of a volume of solution under test)/ >(weight of equal volume of pure water) Throw in the temp and I'll give that a pass" ////////// It is just a nit but, if one could make a hydrometer with the same thermal expansion characteristics as the solution under test, then temperature corrections would not be needed. Think about it. Steve points out that Plato is based on sucrose and, ######## "Wort extract is 80% carbs, 65% fermentable and only a few percent of that is sucrose." ######## That could be very important to what I am trying to do. Anyhow, as I said, I was trying to find a method of making "calibrated" solutions that simulate the solutions that evolve during the fermentation process. These solutions could then be used to correct the readings from a refractometer (or other device for that matter). So for a first approximation (excluding differences between wort and sucrose for now), could I use distilled water, table sugar and isopropyl alcohol to reasonably approximate the solutions found at, say 4 points in the fermentation process? To use Steve's example of OG=1.0483, or OP=12, I could make a solution of 13.6 mg of sucrose in 100 ml of H2O. That would yield: 13.6/(100+13.6)=12 P. Now, for the next solution, at 1/4 th fermented, P=9. Using Louis' and Domenick's: A = (OE-RE) / [2.0665- (0.010665 x OE)] {by weight} ABW=(12-9)/(2.0665-0.010665*12)= 1.55 % (I confirmed it is ABW from Domenick's website.) To simulate that with, say 70% isopropyl, I would combine 100 mg H2O with 10.14 mg of sucrose and 2.49 of isopropyl. That would give me: 10.14/(100+10.14+2.49)= 9 P and 2.49*0.7/(100+10.14+2.47)=1.55 % ABW Is this on the right track? Can I use the same process to simulate the 50%, 75% and 100% fermented cases? How can I get a handle on how much this method is in error? I have more questions but that is enough for now. Thanks, Domenick, Louis, and Steve. (And why is it Demonick in the "From" field and Domenick in the "sig" field? Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY *********************************************************** *My goal: * Go through life and never drink the same beer twice. * (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.) *********************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 16:00:23 -0700 (PDT) From: John Sarette <j2saret at yahoo.com> Subject: Partial mash modified batch sparge Nathan Hoskins" <NathanHoskins at HotPop.com> Says: Efficient Talk and All. Nathan's post brought on a wave of nostalgia. I started home brewing when I won a "beer machine" at work. I brewed the worst beer I had ever tasted! I sure can sympthize with you. After several successful extract brews I stepped up to mashing. I have valuable advice for you: If you are partial mashing avoid all the lauter tun sprinkle mash advice the books give you. You will get horrible effeciency (effeciency to me is what specific gravity you will get compared to the chart in any of Dave Miller's books) After a series of health crisis I am brewing again but cannot lift more than 35 lbs. I now mash no more than 5 lbs of grains in a kettle and batch sparge: I mash in about 2 gallons of water and sparge with an additional two gallons of water. I drain my mash by dumping it in an eight quart strainer over a 5.5 gallon pot. I recirculate the wort by dumping it back through the grains twice and then sparge with the 2 gallons of 170 deg water. The four beers I have brewed with this technique have hit the projected initial gravities exactly and the brews do not taste "grainy". This list has exposed me to the term batch sparge and a google search lead me to believe that what I am doing is called batch spargeing. I works great for partial mashing. Good luck John S. j2saret at homemail.com p.s. A beer I had brewed but not bottles spent four years in a glass fermenter in the basement. I drank the last bottle of it last week and was sorry to see it go. Return to table of contents
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