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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org


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Contents:
  Beer in Italy (George de Piro)
  Drilling Holes in SS ("Jim Yeagley")
  re: Empty Bottles ("David Houseman")
  RE Sealing the top of a conical ("Christian Rausch")
  RE: yeast blending ("Christian Rausch")
  RE: TMS conical fermenter seal and clamp ("Dennis Lewis")
  Excel spread sheet for bottle cap labels ("Romanowsky, Paul")
  Re: yeast blending (Jeff Renner)
  Back-up Yeast (mohrstrom)
  SNPA help requested (LJ Vitt)
  BYO's Mr.Wizard decloaks ("Steve Alexander")
  SNPA tips ("Scott Birdwell  at  DeFalco's")
  Wort Burning Techniques Needed (Dion Hollenbeck)
  AHA Elections: Call for nominations ("Houseman, David L")


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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 02:15:49 -0400
From: George de Piro <george at evansale.com>
Subject: Beer in Italy

Hi all,

I'm lucky enough to be going to the Slow Food "Salone del Gusto" in Torino,
Italy, from October 24 to 28th.  We will be serving some great American
beers, including Deschutes, Lefthand/Tabernash, Stone, Brooklyn and my own
(since mine are unpasteurized keg product, it may not be quite as great as I
hope after the long journey...).

If any HBD readers are in that neck of the woods this week, I'd love to meet
you.  I will also have three 19L pin-lock kegs that I do NOT wish to haul
back to the USA, so they will be up for grabs at the end of the festival.

Have fun!

George de Piro
Head brewer, C.H. Evans Brewing Company
at the Albany Pump Station
19 Quackenbush Square
Albany, NY, USA 12207
(518)447-9000
www.EvansAle.com





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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 07:26:31 -0400
From: "Jim Yeagley" <jyeag at core.com>
Subject: Drilling Holes in SS

> Actually, they are called "Greenleaf punches", but
> this is just like calling facial tissues, "Kleenex".

>Uhhh... Only if you actually called them Kleenecksf.

>Greenlee tools....
 - --
Just got a hold of the hydraulic version of them last night.  Cut 1 5/8"
holes like going thru buttahhhhh.  2mm thick stainless to boot.  The
electrician showed me the rest of the set this morning when I returned the
unit, up to 3" round punches, square and rectangular available (if you can
part with $150+ each)

Just noting that there was virtually no dressing of the hole needed either.
I'm amazed.

Jim Yeagley



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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 08:12:19 -0400
From: "David Houseman" <housemanfam at earthlink.net>
Subject: re: Empty Bottles

Prior to the availability of excellent micro beers (shameless plug:  Victory
Prima Pils) in useful bottles, I went to the local beer distributors who
handle beer in returnable bottles.  Here in PA the usual deposit on a case
of returnable bottles is $1.50.  These distributors were very willing to
"loan" me cases of returnable bottles for the cost of the deposit, $1.50.
The conventional wisdom has advanced so that now we realize that the normal
non-returnable bottles are fine for homebrew so long as we control the
fermentation, which is no longer a problem for most of us.  Although I brew,
I do buy beer and bottles whose labels come off easily breaks the tie when
there are choices.

Dave Houseman



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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 09:01:10 -0400
From: "Christian Rausch" <christian at rauschbiercompany.com>
Subject: RE Sealing the top of a conical

Wayne says:

"I once thought that this would be a good solution as well, but later found
out that it is quite difficult to get the o-ring to lay flat on the rim of
the cone. O-rings that large are most likely rolled up when you get them.
Even if they aren't, with a diameter that large they won't want to stay
round and sit nicely on a 1/2" ledge"

Wayne thanks for the tip. I was being optomistic that the O-Ring would
lay flat after a hot water soak, but apparently thay is not the case. I have
since found a supplier for silicone food grade U-channel that should do
a fine job because it will slip snuggly around the conical top. Hopefully
without any treats or training! Thanks for the input. Oh and great website.

Cheers!
Christian Rausch




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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 09:30:15 -0400
From: "Christian Rausch" <christian at rauschbiercompany.com>
Subject: RE: yeast blending

Mike Spinelli mentioned:
"I'm doing a 20 gallon all grain IPA batch with a 1.060 OG this weekend.
I've got about 8 oz. of solid yeast slurry from Victory Brewing I plan on
using.  I'm concerned I might not have enough yeast..."

Mike, if you have any doubts you should make a yeast started. You should
have plenty of time between now and the weekend to get to high Krausen.
By doing this you should have plenty of yeast. Also since this is a special
yeast,
you probably want to see what it does on it's own anyway. I wouldn't mix the
yeast. Lastly, you may want to make a slant of this yeast so you can use it
again
if you like the results.

Good Luck.

Cheers!
Christian Rausch




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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 10:00:26 -0400
From: "Dennis Lewis" <dblewis at ldc.cc>
Subject: RE: TMS conical fermenter seal and clamp

Zymie chimes in:

> Christian  says:
>
> "oring to seal the top ~$13.00"
>
> I once thought that this would be a good solution as well, but later found
> out that it is quite difficult to get the o-ring to lay flat on the rim of
> the cone. O-rings that large are most likely rolled up when you get them.
> Even if they aren't, with a diameter that large they won't want to stay
> round and sit nicely on a 1/2" ledge.

A very good point. One inexpensive solution is to use regular vinyl tubing.
Slit it lengthwise and fit it around the entire edge, then cut it to fit
the ends together. It won't fall off, and it's easily removable/replaceable.
Yeah, it won't be a *perfect* seal if you really angling for a completely
air-tight system, but it will be good enough for the price. Of course, the
lid will need to be clamped to the lip somehow.

Now that I think about this, what if you used some nylon reinforced tubing,
similarly cut, and rigged up as a sort of Marman clamp. (Maybe use a zip tie
thru holes in the end of the tubing?) This would hold the lid (presumably
a piece of flat plastic) to the lip of the reasonably well and provide
another layer of protection.

I can see a TMS fermenter in my future.....

Dennis Lewis, Warren, OH
[175.3 mi, 113.3 deg] Apparent Rennerian




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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 10:10:02 -0400
From: "Romanowsky, Paul" <paul.romanowsky at siemens.com>
Subject: Excel spread sheet for bottle cap labels

Rick in Scituate, MA responded to Mary about Twist Off bottle caps and
mentioned he has a Excel spread sheet for 1 inch diameter bottle cap labels
for Avery labels #05410.

Rick, I would like to get a copy of that spread sheet from you.  I tried
your RGibbons at aol.com address and get a message back that the address does
not exist.

If your willing to share it, please send it to my e-mail address listed
below. Thanks

Paul Romanowsky
romanempire at worldlynx.net


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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 10:41:50 -0400
From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: yeast blending

Mike Spinelli <paa3983 at dscp.dla.mil> writes from Cherry Hill NJ

>I'm doing a 20 gallon all grain IPA batch with a 1.060 OG this weekend.
>I've got about 8 oz. of solid yeast slurry from Victory Brewing I plan on
>using.  I'm concerned I might not have enough yeast, so I was thinking of
>throwing in 5 packets of dry Nottingham (re-hydrated) for insurance.
>
>Questions:  Do I need the extra dry yeast?  If so, what effect will the
>blending of the 2 yeast have on the batch?

I don't think you need the extra yeast.  The rule of thumb is that 
ideal pitching rate is 1/2 fluid ounce (one tablespoon, or 15 cc) 
yeast solids (thick, like putty or peanut butter) per gallon for 
ales, one ounce per gallon for lagers.  So you are just a little 
under ideal, but way above the usual pitching rates.  Think about 
even the newer pitchable tubes - the can't contain more than a fluid 
ounce, yet they work pretty doggone well for five gallons.

You could just boost your yeast by feeding it with some wort the day 
before.  I'd suggest a pint or two in a carboy so you have lots of 
head space for available oxygen and foaming.  But I'll bet it isn't 
necessary.

As to question #2, I'm sure the yeast will get along OK (although 
there are some yeast with the killer gene).  It will change your 
character some - Nottingham is quite attenuative and neutral in my 
experience.  Since Victory's ales are fruity (more to my liking), I'd 
suggest sticking with their yeast.

Jeff
- -- 
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net
"One never knows, do one?"  Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943


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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 11:04:07 -0400
From: mohrstrom at core.com
Subject: Back-up Yeast

Mike is whomping up a nice IPA:
> I'm concerned I might not have enough yeast, so 
> I was thinking of throwing in 5 packets of dry 
> Nottingham (re-hydrated) for insurance.

I wouldn't use the Danstar Nottingham for this beer.  In my experience, it 
attenuates very well, and leaves the beer too dry.  This may leave your IPA 
a little harsh if you like to pile on the hops.


Mark in Kalamazoo


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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 08:29:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: LJ Vitt <lvitt4 at yahoo.com>
Subject: SNPA help requested

Grant from Australia asked for some pointers on SNPA.

I believe this beer is frequently attempted to clone.

Below, I give the recipe given for the AHA big brew in 2000,
printed in the May/June 2000 issue of Zymurgy.
They don't give any of the figures Grant asked for; OG, color, IBUs.

All grain:
6.5 gal water (2.5 mash, 4 sparge)
1 T gypsum (unless using hard water)
8 lb us two row malt
1/2 lb us crystal malt 60L
1/2 lb dextrin malt
1 oz perle (bitter or first wort hop)
1 oz Cascade (flavor)
1/2 t Irish moss
1/2 oz cascade (aroma)
1 oz cascade (dry hop)
Wyeast 1056

Extract

5 gal water (1.5 steep, 3.5 added)
1/2 lb us crystal malt 40L
1/2 lb us crystal malt 60L
1 T gypsum
6.75 lb Alexanders palt malt extract syrup
1.5 oz perle hops (bittering)
rest of hops are the same as all grain.



=====
Leo Vitt
Rochester MN



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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 13:01:07 -0400
From: "Steve Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net>
Subject: BYO's Mr.Wizard decloaks

Well I was contacted by BYO's Mr.Wizard after my recent comments .... and  I
took the opportunity to examine the Mr.Wizard column archive at the BYO
website.

I have to admit that my memory was way too selective - recalling only points
of contention.  The Wiz column that I really thought off-base (regarding
honey vs table sugar to avoid wine-y flavors in beer) appeared two and a
half years ago and the issues that I found to disagree about in more recent
columns were more judgement calls on coverage and the minutiae of HSA.

I'm not gonna sing, "If ever if ever a Wiz there was, a Wiz he is because
because because because .... ", but the column is certainly much better than
I implied.  Apologies A.L.

 -Steve Alexander



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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 12:41:52 -0500
From: "Scott Birdwell  at  DeFalco's" <defalcos at ev1.net>
Subject: SNPA tips

Grant Stott from Down Under requested some pointers for a Sierra Nevada Pale
Ale.  I have a flyer from the brewery and they state that the O.G. is 13
Plato (~1.053).  They do use Perle for bittering and Cascades for flavoring
& finishing.  I believe that the IBU's run about 32 or so.  As to color, I
would shoot for about 7 SRM.  SNPA is not as dark as one might think.  The
flyer mentions two row, caramel (crystal) malt, and dextrin (cara-pils)
malts.  No mention of Munich is made, so you might want to omit that from
your grain bill.  Hope this helps.

Scott Birdwell (still recovering from the Dixie Cup - 962 entries!)
DeFalco's Home Wine & Beer Supplies
Houston TX




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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 12:53:37 -0700
From: Dion Hollenbeck <hollen at woodsprite.com>
Subject: Wort Burning Techniques Needed

I recently had what on first appearance was a disaster.  Molasses got under 
the false bottom in my kettle and burned and left a 1/4" thick crust of 
carbon.  As far as the beer goes, the smokiness is WONDERFUL, and I would 
think very hard to duplicate.  As far as my kettle goes, it has permanent 
etching on the bottom and is going to get swapped with my hot liquor 
tank.  I never intend to do this again in my kettle.

However, I want to be able to duplicate this method as the results in the 
beer are fantastic.  What I have thought of is getting a cheap stainless 
pot and dedicating it to being a "wort burner".  It will not matter if some 
of the carbon gets left on it between batches or if it gets etched.

Does anyone have any other ideas on how to manage a "dedicated 
wort/molasses burner"?  I am assuming that part of the key to getting the 
intense smokiness is the burning molasses suffusing the wort above it, so I 
would have to take some of the wort from the kettle, "burn" it, and return 
it to the kettle.

regards,
dion

- --
Dion Hollenbeck  Email:  hollen at woodsprite.com
Home Page:       http://www.woodsprite.com
Brewing Page:    http://hbd.org/hollen  [1359.5,263.7] Rennerarian



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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 19:29:29 -0400
From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com>
Subject: AHA Elections: Call for nominations

I'd like to announce that the American Homebrewers Association (AHA) Board
of Advisors is taking nominations for candidates for election to the Board
of Advisors in the Spring 2003 elections.  Candidates must be members of the
AHA and will serve a three year term.  We are seeking homebrewers with a
diverse background to help guide the AHA in its future.  In the recent past
the BOA have brought to the membership elections to the board itself, member
run National Homebrew Conferences and the Pub Discount Program to name a few
of our successes.  All current members of the AHA Board of Advisors have
been elected to the position.  For more information on the BOA please review
our bylaws at: http://www.beertown.org/AHA/Legal/ahabylaws.htm.   Once
accepted into nomination, the nominee will be asked to submit a brief
biography and statement for publication in the March/April edition of
Zymurgy where ballots will be printed.  On-line voting will again be offered
as the preferred means of voting of course.   

Do you want to help improve the organization and contribute to the world of
homebrewing?  If you, or someone you know, would like to be considered for
the AHA Board of Advisors, please let us know by sending me an email
nomination at the email address below.  Nominations will be open through
November 6th.

David Houseman
Chairman,
AHA Board of Advisors
housemanfam at earthlink.net 



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