HOMEBREW Digest #408 Mon 30 April 1990

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Grain to extract conversion factors ("Gary F. Mason - Image Systems - MKO2-2/K03 - 603884[DTN264]-1503  27-Apr-1990 0629")
  Re: Idle Fermentation (John DeCarlo)
  Re: Fermentation Temp. (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Fermentation Temperature (Tom Hotchkiss)
  Warm Weather Brewing! (Enders)
  The Other BeanTown Brewpub (S_KOZA)
  Coffee Beer?! (CORONELLRJDS)
  Large Carboys (Norm Hardy)
  Long Ferments (Norm Hardy)
  Not-so-sweet Beer ("William F. Pemberton")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 27 Apr 90 03:32:31 PDT From: "Gary F. Mason - Image Systems - MKO2-2/K03 - 603884[DTN264]-1503 27-Apr-1990 0629" <mason at habs11.enet.dec.com> Subject: Grain to extract conversion factors I have seen scattered information about converting all-grain recipes to extract recipes. I would like to hear what your experiences have been. Most of the ale recipes I want to try seem to be all-grain (to which I WILL go, but I want to master the mechanics first). Also, the bulk of opinion seems to be that the primary differences between all-grain and extract brewing is the 'freshness' of the resulting brew's taste, and the satisfaction of the brewer at having used all-grain. Any comments? Thanks...Gary Return to table of contents
Date: Friday, 27 Apr 1990 08:58:33 EST From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo) Subject: Re: Idle Fermentation >From: yerga at cory.Berkeley.EDU (Chris Yerga) >... >The yeast had covered the surface of the wort by midnight and was bubbling >away at the rate of 3 or 4 bbles per second by the next morning. Fermentation >continued in this manner until the second morning (48 hours after pitching), >when the head on the wort had fallen. I haven't seen a single bubble since, >which seems strange because I tossed about 10oz of the wort into a bottle >fitted with an airlock at the same time that I pitched in the primary. The >bottle is bubbling every several seconds. Well, I know you don't want to touch your primary, but you should really do so and measure the Specific Gravity. I had a very similar thing happen on my last batch (a wheat beer). When I measured the S.G. (using a sanitized turkey baster to withdraw the beer), it was 1.010, so that told me that fermentation was finished. John "So I relaxed and bottled it" DeCarlo ARPANET: M14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (or M14051%mwvm at mitre.arpa) Usenet: at ... at !uunet!hadron!blkcat!109!131!John_Decarlo Fidonet: 1:109/131 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 90 09:37:18 mdt From: hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!ihlpl!korz (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: Re: Fermentation Temp. Andriau-- You can still brew at 90 degrees, but if you can, I would recommend using a refridgerator as you have mentioned. I'm sending info on refridgerator thermostats from previous digests to you directly. One way to lower your carboy temp, is to put it in a low tub of water, drape cloths over it, and keep the cloths wet. The evaporating water will keep the carboy several degrees colder than the ambient temp just like the way human sweat does. Something like terrycloth would work well due to the higher surface area. Be prepared for a very humid brewing room though. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 90 10:06:20 MDT From: Tom Hotchkiss <trh at hpestrh.hp.com> Subject: Fermentation Temperature Full-Name: Tom Hotchkiss > From: Andrius Tamulis <tamulis at dehn.math.nwu.edu> > Subject: Fermentation Temperature > > > The summer months will soon be upon us, with the correspondingly high > temperatures. My current residence does not have any A/C, and is therefore > subject to the outside temperature, which means that it can reach 90 degrees > in here, maybe even higher. The question is, can I brew beer? 90 is well out > of the suggested fermenting range, but just what will happen? Is it hopeless? > And if it is, are there refridgerator-type things that can keep my carboy at > a nice 65-75? > Thanks in advance, > Andrius Based on my experience, you can brew beer but you may have some problems. I live in an apartment where the temperature gets as high as 90 in the summer. I have brewed several batches during the summer months with disappointing results. One batch tasted fine early in its life, but as time went on an infection reared its ugly head (i.e. I had a case and a half of glass grenades). I avoided explosive behavior with a later summer batch, but it just didn't taste quite right, although it was drinkable. My sanitation procedures were no different for the exploding batch than any other batch I have ever made, but I would like to point out that the batch spent > 1 month in the secondary at warm temperatures. My advice would be if you want to brew in warmer weather, give it a try. However, I would pay attention to the following: 1. Use extra caution in sanitizing procedures. My limited experience suggests infection problems occur more readily in warm weather. 2. Use short fermentation times, i.e. ferment and bottle in 1 1/2 or 2 weeks total. With the warmer temps, initial fermentation should proceed rapidly and the risk of infection is higher. 3. Once bottled, store the beer in a cool place or drink it quickly. Storing the beer under warm conditions for a long time ruins the flavor and invites even small infections to become a problem. Of course, the best answer is to find a way to keep the fermentation vessels and bottled beer cool. NOTE: All of the above is based soley on my personal experience; it is not based on scientific knowledge of the fermentation process at a higher temperatures. Wish I could report better results, Tom Hotchkiss Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 90 11:34:51 -0500 From: Enders <enders at plains.NoDak.edu> Subject: Warm Weather Brewing! While 90F may be outside the *recomended* fermentation range, most yeasts will still ferment at temps of up to 100-105F. However, there are a few things to be aware of. First, higher temps lead to higher levels of esters in the beer. Depending on the strain of yeast, you may find the beer you brew to be unacceptably fruity. I think if I were to try frementing at the high end of the yeast's viability range, I'd choose a very neutral (read as low ester producing) yeast strain, such as Wyeast #1056 (American Ale, a.k.a. Sierra Nevada Ale). Another thing to be aware of is that rapidly changing temps can put a halt to fermentation prematurely. I think regardless of the temp at which fermentation takes place, you should try to maintain as even a temp as possible. At 90F, expect the fermentation to go pretty fast. If, after a little experimentation, you feel that you can't brew an acceptable beer at high temps, there are a few ways to keep the fermenter cool. One way is to set the fermenter in a tub, partly filled with water. Drape wet towels around the fermenter, with one end of each towel in the water. This provides evaporative cooling, and can presumably keep the fermenter at 10 deg. or so below the ambient air temp (depending on the humidity). There is also a commercial device available called a "Brew Belt" which I have not seen, and don't know how it functions (I'll leave the description of it to someone more knowledgable). I'm sure I'll become a little more expert at warm weather brewing as the summer progresses. I haven't had occasion to brew very often when it's hot, so my experience is very limited (However, this is changing, as it looks like I'm going to be doing a LOT of brewing over the next several months. Stay tuned :-) Hope this helps! Todd Enders arpa: enders at plains.nodak.edu Computer Center uucp: ...!uunet!plains!enders Minot State University bitnet: enders at plains Minot, ND 58702 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 90 14:15 EST From: <S_KOZA%UNHH.BITNET at mitvma.mit.edu> Subject: The Other BeanTown Brewpub Hi All, Being in Boston for the last few days at a conference I had the opportunity to resamle the fermentations of the CW Brewery and try the Cambridge Brewery also. I felt that the CWB stout was underhopped and lacking of body. I also tried the bitter and fetl that this was well hopped ( which I prefer) and hadmuch better body than the stout. I would have tried the others but last call put an abrupt end to our safari. The following night we ventured to the Cambridge Brewery. We started with their Golden Ale which was good for the style which was described as a Canadien style ale. We then quaffed the CB Amber Ale which was a beautiful brown color. It had a pleasant malty flavor with a discernable chocolate malt flavor. We then tried the porter which was similar to the amber but with a strng chocolate malt taste. After talking with brewmaster(Phil, he was quite busy but was more than happy to pull up a chair and talk beers w/ us) we found out that both the amber and porter had a large amt. of crystal malt added. Somewhere in the area of a 1:5 ratio of crystal to two row malt. As a night cap we ahd the special batch which was called Mach Bock(The synonym 'mock' is intended here also since it was brewed w/ an ale yeast. This beer was similar to the porter but was more hopped a had noti- cably more EtOH. Of the two establishments I preferred the Cambridge for two reasons A. I thought the brews were much more flavorful B. Cost; pints were $2.50 as compared to the $3.50 ( a guess.. 8-} )or so at the Commonwealth. W/ a 60 oz. pitcher going for 8-9 bucks. Stephan M. Koza Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 90 15:15 MST From: CORONELLRJDS at CHE.UTAH.EDU Subject: Coffee Beer?! Greetings: The other day I had a great idea. I'd brewed the night before, and the next morning I was making my coffee, I thought "Why not?" Coffee beer!! What an idea! What a great way to combine my two favorite drinks. Has anybody else ever tried this? What should I expect? How much coffee should I put into a batch made from extracts? I'll bet that coffee would complement a stout quite well. Just think: in the event that you (accidentally) drink too much ;^) at least you won't have to worry about being a sleepy drunk. Even better: I could finally rationalize a beer in the morning with breakfast! I can't believe that I'm the first one to think of this, but I've never heard of it (to the best of my recollection.) Please forward any coffee beer recipes you may have seen. Cheers, Chuck Coronella CORONELLRJDS at CHEMICAL.UTAH.EDU Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 90 19:32:33 PDT From: hplabs!polstra!norm (Norm Hardy) Subject: Large Carboys One source of 7-gallon carboys is : The Cellar in Seattle (206) 365-7660. The price is $14.95 plus shipping. They are used but will work fine for you. The Cellar also has an 800 number but for the life in me I can't find it! Norm in Seattle Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 90 17:46:35 PDT From: hplabs!polstra!norm (Norm Hardy) Subject: Long Ferments Making a homebrewed lager can entail a long time before bottling or kegging. I have had some that took 2 months before bottling. Looking over my log of beers, I discovered that the best lagers took about 3 weeks in the primary, at about 48-54f, and from 2-4 weeks in the secondary thereafter, at about 40f. Leaving the primary ferment beyond 5 weeks seems to start giving the beer some off flavors from the decaying yeast (autolysis?). The best way would be to have a fermenter which allows you to drain off the yeast after a certain time without disturbing the wort; sort of like the inverted carboy systems that I have seen advertised before. The question of priming sugar and viable yeast often comes up after a 6 week or longer ferment. I have yet never had a problem with bottles getting proper carbonation after enough time (3 to 4 weeks in the bottle). Yes, patience is quite necessary when making a lager at home. From my experience, it is worth the time. Norm in Seattle Return to table of contents
Date: Sun Apr 29 13:52:02 1990 From: "William F. Pemberton" <wfp5p at euclid.acc.virginia.edu> Subject: Not-so-sweet Beer Well, here is the update on my sweet beer. The Steam Beer turned out really well. It hasn't really aged very long, but I am quite happy with the results. If anyone is interested, here is the recipe I used: 6.6 lbs M&F Amber Extract 1/4 lb Toasted Barley 1/4 lb Crystal Malt 1.75 oz Northern Brewers Hops Vierka Lager Yeast Boil was for 45 minutes, aged in carbouy for 2 weeks. On an unrelated issue, some one was mentioning 'Dark Sleep Stout.' I just did a batch and the OG was 1.065, right on. Bill (flash at virginia.edu) Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #408, 04/30/90 ************************************* -------
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