FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org *************************************************************** THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY: Northern Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies http://www.northernbrewer.com 1-800-681-2739 Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site! ********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html ********* Contents: 3 in 1 fermenters ("Shaun and Sarah") yeast info pages (Alan McKay) Beer Shopping in Glasgow ("Philip J Wilcox") Red Stripe Lager & Kubuli Clones ("Beer") Re: Belgian Wit - recipe questions (Jeff Renner) re mead not frementing (John Sarette) Safale S-33 ("C Cameron") Re. Yeast Info. Pages/Reefer Questions (Richard Foote) RE:. WL vs Wyeast / Yeast Profiles on BrewRats.Org ("Scott D. Braker-Abene") Gott Coolers ("Nachman, James") re: Mash tun outlet filters ("Cave, Jim") Wyeast 3787 (David Towson) RE: Belgian Wit - recipe questions (Donald and Melissa Hellen) Fwd: re: Mash tun outlet filters (David Towson) beer case plans (Alan McKay)
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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 21:55:40 +1100 From: "Shaun and Sarah" <polidori at bigpond.com> Subject: 3 in 1 fermenters G'day, I've been lurking around for a while and have finally come up with a question worth asking. I've seen a number of so called 3 in 1 fermenters on the net but the available info is pretty poor. Basically they're a 25 litre stainless bucket with a sealed lid and standard airlock. The 'boiling' bit comes courtesy of a built in 1380 watt circular element. The instructions are basically dump and stir - malt goes in with 5l water, gets boiled (and hops if relevant) then topped up with cold water al la basic kit theory. My questions are as follows Has anybody used one of these and using what method - do you love/hate it? Is the element powerful enough to do a full 23 litre boil? (if it doesn't it sounds like a seriously expensive toy just to make kit beer) Are there any serious anoyances fermenting in this vessel??? Cheers in advance Shaun Canberra Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 07:16:14 -0500 From: Alan McKay <amckay at neap.net> Subject: yeast info pages Rama Roberts says : > There have been some several discussions lately about which yeasts are which > (WL Platinum, YCKC, etc). It'd be great if this were captured somewhere for > future reference (and don't say "that's what the archives are for".) > > Are there other references out there that are being kept up to date? I missed the thread but am in the process of adding a cross-reference to my yeast database at http://www.bodensatz.com/yeastdb/ At present it allows you to look up a great number of yeasts, select several and compare, maintain your yeast bank online, and swap yeasts with other yeast bankers. Over the holidays I hope to be able to add the cross reference so that you will be able to do exactly what you want. The program is all database-driven and is IMO the most versatile yeast reference on the Net. That's only going to get better once the cross reference is added. Note that it also allows you to add yeasts yourself so if there are any you do not see, just go ahead and add them! Note that some features are only available to logged-in users, but as always membership is free - just sign yourself up. cheers, -Alan - -- http://www.bodensatz.com/ The Beer Site (tm) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 08:44:13 -0500 From: "Philip J Wilcox" <pjwilcox at cmsenergy.com> Subject: Beer Shopping in Glasgow Howdy all, A question for the beer bretheren on the other side of the pond. One of my best friends is getting on a plane to Glasgow today and said he would do his best to find me a sixpack of Bitter and Twisted while staying at the home of his wee bonnie lass. She had indicated that she didn't know where to shop to find a specialty beer store. Any help from would be appreciated. Phil. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 08:45:46 -0600 From: "Beer" <beer at bubtechnologies.com> Subject: Red Stripe Lager & Kubuli Clones {Lurk Off} Anybody have a clone recipe for Red Stripe (Jamacia) or Kubuli (Dominican Republic)? My guess would be a non hoppy medium "density" lager with some adjuncts (for the Red Stripe) Kubuli I've never had but my Bro In Law has and he seemed to like it... Thanks for any help you can give... Brian Cihak Belvidere, IL [255.6, 271.3] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 10:36:23 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Belgian Wit - recipe questions "Gregor" <gregor at blinx.de> writes from Berlin, Germany >I plan to brew a Belgian Wit soon: > >The recipe for 50 litres OG 1.049, 19 IBU looks like this: > grain: >5,0 kg Pilsener >0,6 kg Sourmalt (Weyermann) >0,4 kg flaked oats >4,0 kg flaked wheat (pre-gelantinized) I know a others have used sourmalt or have done a sour mash to get the tartness of a witbier, but this always puzzles me. I would be concerned that the pH of the mash would be so low as to cause a problem. But maybe it isn't a problem. I think it looks good otherwise. Hops choice looks good. I'll leave others to comment on amount of orange peel but the coriander amount looks good. I make an unsoured witbier with fresh ginger, coriander, cardomom and grains of paradise. No orange peel. See http://hbd.org/brewery/cm3/recs/09_85.html > Another question: How to crush the flakes? Will my unadjustable JSP >Maltmill >deliver a good enough crush for the flakes? I have no other mill. Should I >mix the flakes with the malt and mill it together, or is it better to mill >the flakes seperately? No need to mill them at all. They will convert fine as is. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 08:07:16 -0800 (PST) From: John Sarette <j2saret at yahoo.com> Subject: re mead not frementing Try a packet of dry pasteur champange yeast. I have a very cold basement with temps in the low 60's, high 50's during the winter and middle to high 60's in the summer. Dry pastuer champange yeast has never failed. I've flavoured my honey brews with dandylion, raspberries, apples and pears. The yeast has alway performed well. It begins fermenting within 24 hours, and ferments for several months, it maintains pressure although not bubbles in the air lock for another month or so. I bottle it as a sparkling mead without having to repitch yeast. After a year I have a fine beverage and after 4 years a fantastic one. I would suggest repitching with dry champange yeast. John Duluth, Mn Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 12:45:15 -0500 From: "C Cameron" <colinlovesbeer at hotmail.com> Subject: Safale S-33 I brewed a pale ale recently with Safale S-33 dry yeast. It's been in the secondary now for 1 week and is not clearing well, only about the top 1/3 of the carboy is somewhat clear. When I racked to 2ndary it was just about done (gravity=1.014) so I don't think that's the issue. Anyone else have similar experiences? Am I just used to Nottingham and Safale S-04 which settle quickly? Colin Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 15:02:25 -0500 From: Richard Foote <rfoote at mindspring.com> Subject: Re. Yeast Info. Pages/Reefer Questions Following the Yeast info. Pages thread... Rama writes: >Have you seen: > >http://www.skotrat.com/brewrats/yeast.cfm Very nice! But its still missing lots of stuff, like: WL Belgian/Canadian Ale = Unibroue WL German Bock = Ayinger WL Zurich Lager = Samichlaus Any Brewrats out there? I'll help compile the info if you can update the pages. [Back to me] Yes, skotrat has a good yeast info. resource, but it is lacking (no offense). A few months ago, when I did a write-up on our club's lager yeast 'spurment, I had attempted to get yeast desciptions for the yeasts we tested. Among these were Ayinger lager and Saflager (dry lager) yeasts. I couldn't find any descriptions of either. I couldn't even find the company web site for Saflager. So... just adding my two cents in support of this info. need. BTW, thanks to those who have responded publically/privately to my query for reefer info. re. walk-in cooler and pros/cons on window AC vs. commercial cooling unit. I have a brew buddy who really wants me to take this 10' x 10' walk-in off his hands. Now to convince SWMBO how much I need it. Maybe I could rent reefer space... I know a scrap metal place nearby that had a bunch of used AC units from portable classrooms for $300 each. Any reaction to how well these would be suited? Gotta make sure they will operate on household current though. I've been told they may need three phase. Any reefer peeps got any thoughts? Rick Foote Whistle Pig Brewery and Meat Locker (Hey, Rocky 6 is coming!) Murrayville, GA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 12:42:15 -0800 (PST) From: "Scott D. Braker-Abene" <skotrat at yahoo.com> Subject: RE:. WL vs Wyeast / Yeast Profiles on BrewRats.Org Hiya, Actually I use neither. I have switched over to EasYeast exclusively and suggest that you give their yeast a try. You may just like it and stop using the others. You can buy EasYeast at http://www.stoutbillys.com ***************************************************** If you know of a yeast that is not listed on the http://www.brewrats.org ultimate yeast profiles please feel free to send that information to me at: skotrat at yahoo.com SUBJECT: Yeast Profiles I will hopefully update it soon. C'ya! -Scott ===== "The broken seats in empty rows, It all belongs to me you know" - P. Townshend http://www.skotrat.com/skotrat - Skotrats Beer Page http://www.brewrats.org - BrewRats HomeBrew Club Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 14:37:56 -0600 From: "Nachman, James" <James.Nachman at uscellular.com> Subject: Gott Coolers I am trying to find 5 and 10 gallon Gott coolers, so I can finally have the all grain setup I want, and have been unable to find anyone in town here that carries them or is willing to order them. Any suggestions as to where on the web I can find them?? Thanks, Jim Cedar Rapids, IA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 13:03:16 -0800 From: "Cave, Jim" <Cave at psc.org> Subject: re: Mash tun outlet filters Yes, I've had this problem and in fact still do. I believe the main reason is due to improper milling resulting too few larger husks (for the filter bed) and too many smaller particles. I have yet to upgrade past the Corona mill. The one time I had the good fortune to use grist from a properly set commercial roller mill with my mash tunn set up, I had no problem with particulates. Jim Cave Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 20:35:44 -0500 From: David Towson <dtowson at comcast.net> Subject: Wyeast 3787 In HBD 4120, Steve Alexander notes: "WY3787 has given me several terrific results too but it's very temp sensitive." I'm very eager to try this yeast, Steve. Please tell us more. Dave in Bel Air, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 21:25:54 -0500 From: Donald and Melissa Hellen <donhellen at horizonview.net> Subject: RE: Belgian Wit - recipe questions Gregor asks: Another question: How to crush the flakes? Will my unadjustable JSP maltmill deliver a good enough crush for the flakes? I have no other mill. Should I mix the flakes with the malt and mill it together, or is it better to mill the flakes separately? Your flaked wheat should be added directly to the mash; no milling is required. If the oats are pre-gelatinized, they are handled the same way. However, your oats might need to be partly cooked, then added to the mash. I'm sure others will be able to tell you how to handle them. Otherwise, I'll do some research on it for both of us. Don Hellen Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 20:17:39 -0500 From: David Towson <dtowson at comcast.net> Subject: Fwd: re: Mash tun outlet filters For some reason, a personal copy of Steve's reply got to me a couple days before it appeared in the HBD, so we continued the discussion privately. My reply to Steve appears below, and his response was that he had no problem with what I'm doing, except that he was confident I would not be seeing "crystal clear wort" if I were looking at it in a large container instead of a half-inch tube (which is indeed how I am seeing it). He pointed out, however, that the post to which he was responding noted that particulates were still being seen in the wort well after the grain bed should have been set, thereby indicating that the bed had not been set correctly. I agree. I think that pretty well covers it, but if I missed anything, Steve, please jump in. >Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 16:10:00 -0500 >From: David Towson <dtowson at comcast.net> >Subject: re: Mash tun outlet filters >X-Sender: dtowson at mail.comcast.net >To: Steve Alexander <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> >Cc: dtowson at comcast.net >X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Version 5.1 >Original-recipient: rfc822;dtowson at comcast.net > >Steve - Did your reply ever make it into the HBD? If it did, then I sure >missed it. Glad you sent me a personal copy. Nice to hear from you. I >really enjoy reading your posts. Anyway, on to the discussion. > >>If your valve is clogging after the first pints of vorlauf then you have >>failed to "set" a filterbed. >> >> >An outlet filter eliminates this problem. >> >>No - it only eliminates large grist particles - it doesn't remove the >>smaller particles. As I posted before, it misses the point of lautering. > >I don't think we have any disagreement in fact, but we may have a >difference of opinion regarding procedure. I set the initial temperature >of my mash water such that after mash-in, I'm a degree of two below my >first rest temperature. Then I use the heat exchanger to come up to and >stabilize at the desired rest temperature. So I start the pump >immediately after mash-in, and well before the bed is set. In the course >of mashing-in, I stir the mash with a paddle, and this causes a fair >amount of small particles to get through the false bottom. Before I added >the metal mesh filter around the pickup tube, the period of time before >the bed settled was a real hassle, as I had to keep checking the flow and >burping the valve as needed. Once the bed was set, the problem went >away. Maybe I'm lazy or too easily bothered, but being an engineer, I >just eliminated the problem. My mashes produce crystal-clear wort that >never fails to draw comments of amazement from fellow brewers who have >never seen how clear runoff can be. So I think I'm doing it right; I just >choose to prevent a temporary nuisance. > >Dave Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 22:44:56 -0500 From: Alan McKay <amckay at neap.net> Subject: beer case plans There are plans in the book "Brew Ware". Review on my site : http://www.bodensatz.com/staticpages/index.php?page=20020501193612448 - -- http://www.bodensatz.com/ The Beer Site Return to table of contents
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