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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  Re: Homebrew in Ft. Lauderdale (a.e.mossberg)
  Oak barrels (florianb)
  Wyeast Operations (John Bates)
  Low-alcohol beer (boubez)
  AHA offices (mage!lou)
  Re:  Homebrew Digest #421 (May 21, 1990) (Erik Asphaug x2773)
  good brew within your lifetime (florianb)
  Darkening light extract with adjuncts ("MISVX1::HABERMAND")
  AHA Office
  TEA!?!? (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  priming w/malt (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  no subject (file transmission) (Len Reed)
  Invert Sugar (Time to get out the old textbooks)
  no subject (file transmission) (Len Reed)
  Re: Mike Leonard doesn't rate


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Archives available from netlib at mthvax.cs.miami.edu


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Date: Mon, 21 May 90 14:13:01 GMT
From: aem at mthvax.CS.Miami.EDU (a.e.mossberg)
Subject: Re: Homebrew in Ft. Lauderdale

In digest <1990May21.071849.4467 at mthvax.cs.miami.edu> Rob Enns <hpda!uunet!bnrgate!bcarh222.BNR.CA!robe> writes:

>If anyone has any suggestions or pointers to good homebrew shops in Ft.
>Lauderdale, I'd love to hear them.

There are two homebrew shops, and only two, in South Florida. There is
one, very small shop in Ft. Lauderdale, not recommended, and there is
Wine and Brew By You, in South Miami, which may be the largest homebrew
shop in the country. 5760 Bird Rd, South Miami (305) 666-5757

South Miami is about 30 minutes by car from Ft. Lauderdale, 45-60
minutes by train+metrorail, or 90-150 minutes by buses, or 20 minutes
by personal helicopter, though landing's a bitch.


aem


- -- 
a.e.mossberg / aem at mthvax.cs.miami.edu / aem at umiami.BITNET / Pahayokee Bioregion
If this is paradise, I wish I had a lawnmower.  	- David Byrne


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Date: 21 May 90 08:49:15 PDT (Mon)
From: florianb%tekred.cna.tek.com at RELAY.CS.NET
Subject: Oak barrels

In #420, Russ Gelinas asks:

>flavor to it and was really nutty (in flavor). Anyone have any experience
>with oak-aged brew? How about availability of oak casks (albeit smaller ones)?

you can purchase oak barrels from Steinbart's.  Their address is:

F. H. Steinbart Co.
602 SE Salmon
Portland, OR  97214
503-232-8793

Florian.


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Date: Mon, 21 May 90 10:48:54 MDT
From: bates at palmen.Colorado.EDU (John Bates)
Subject: Wyeast Operations

At last month's homebrewers meeting here in Boulder it was mentioned that
Wyeast had burned and that they were temporarily out of business (I assume
that they will be rebuilding).  It might be very timely for concerns
about package bursting to get to Wyeast now so that they can incorporate
changes into the new production line.  Also at that meeting, we had a great
talk about culturing yeast and making starters.  It is not too difficult
and avoids the cost of Wyeast after the first time.

John Bates (Normans evil twin)

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Date: Mon, 21 May 90 14:46:13 EDT
From: boubez at bass.rutgers.edu
Subject: Low-alcohol beer


Norm Hardy asks:

>Question:  would homebrewers like to try a brewing system that allowed them
>to make excellent beers with a lower final alcohol level?

I, for one, would like to try my hand at lower-alcohol beers. Since I'm
gearing up for summer production :-), there's nothing I'd like more
than a (few) nice cold refreshing homebrew(s) anytime I want, without
having to worry about too much alcohol ...

toufic

Toufic Boubez
boubez at caip.rutgers.edu

- -- We didn't inherit the earth from our ancestors,
   we borrowed it from our descendants.			-- H.D. Thoreau


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Date: Mon, 21 May 90 13:11:29 MDT
From: hplms2!mage!lou
Subject: AHA offices

In HBD #420 Cher writes:

>....  Since I hope to be in Denver/Boulder 
>again this November, I also hope to go to the AHA offices.  Does anybody know 
>if you can purchase stuff (like books, T-shirts) direct, on site?  I might as 
>well save on the shipping and handling costs if I can.

Last Friday afternoon the AHA had "Open House" with mediocre munchies but lots
of great homebrew.  I didn't ask about buying anything, but I noticed several
T-shirts displayed for sale.  I assume that the rest of the stuff from "The
Beer Lovers Store" is available.  Besides, they're nice folks - I'm sure they
would be willing to sell you that stuff if you explained that you came all the
way from Florida just to see them and give them a beer.

The only possible problem I can see is (since you said you will be here in
November, I assume you're coming for the Great American Beer Festival, November
2&3) that they may be swamped with festival work and won't have much time to
talk to you.

If you send me a note closer to the time of your trip I may be able to get
better information for you.

Louis Clark
reply to: mage!lou at ncar.ucar.edu


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Date: Mon, 21 May 90 12:22:59 MST
From: asphaug at hindmost.lpl.arizona.edu (Erik Asphaug x2773)
Subject: Re:  Homebrew Digest #421 (May 21, 1990)

I need to cancel my name from your mailing list due to 
overabundance of information.

Thanks for a year of very interesting and valuable advice.

			Yours,
				Erik


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Date: 21 May 90 12:54:54 PDT (Mon)
From: florianb%tekred.cna.tek.com at RELAY.CS.NET
Subject: good brew within your lifetime

Being an impatient person, I have been unable to fully relax in my home-
brewing in the past.  I mean, waiting for the beer to age is a real drag.
Because of this, I've recently made attempts to reduce the brew cycle time.
These attempts have paid off.  I now believe it is possible to brew quality
beer in less than two weeks.  May I offer the following techniques for 
reduced brewing time?  (There's a catch--you need to keg.)

In an effort to reduce all aspects of brewing time, I looked at various points
in the brewing cycle.  Significant points are mentioned.

Day #1.  I mixed the grains together and ground them with the Corona mill, in
the evening after dinner.

Day #2.  I mashed using a single-temperature mash at 155 deg F.  Papazian's
formula results in a lower mash temperature, so I use water 10 deg F higher
than he recommends.  Again, the mashing takes place after dinner, and I let
the runoff go overnight.

Day #3.  (Normally on the weekend) I boil the wort and strain.  I use a
chiller to speed up the cooling.  After cooling, I add the hydrated yeast
without racking off of the trub.

Day #4.  Fermentation going.  Day #5.  Rack off directly into keg.  Add hops
for dry hopping in cheesecloth bag.  Pressurize and set aside.

Day #'s 5,6,7.  Keg conditioning and carbonation occurs.

Day #8.  Put in keg reefer.  

Day #9.  Wait.  Day #10.  Begin drinking.

Although the mashing occurs over a 2 day period, I only spend a little time
each day.  The boiling and chilling takes about 2 hours.  When the keg is first
opened, the beer is still cloudy from yeast.  But yeast is good for you.  By
the 14th day significant clearing has occurred due to the chilling in the
reefer.  By day 21, it is clear and clean.  The ale I have made by this method
isn't as good as ale aged a month or more in the keg, but it is still very
good beer.  In fact, I enjoy it much more than many of the swillpub brews on
tap here in the Northwest.  This method allows me to have a "house ale" and 
frees up my equipment for the making of beers with longer aging times, such
as lagers and dark ales.  So far, I have only tried the method on pale ales.
By using these shortcut methods, it is possible for me to make good beer 
within my lifetime

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Date: 21 May 90 14:31:00 PDT
From: "MISVX1::HABERMAND" <habermand%misvx1.decnet at afal-edwards.af.mil>
Subject: Darkening light extract with adjuncts

About 3 weeks ago in Digest #401 Paul Kelly asked:
> Another question regarding bulk extracts:  someone recently said that one can
> achieve better quality on dark beers by using light extract, and darkening the
> wort with specialty grains.  What grains (and in what amounts) should I use
> to duplicate, say, John Bull unhopped dark with light extract?  If I buy the

I knew in the back of my mind that the answer to this question was in a past 
issue of ZYMURGY and I finally found it!  I moved recently and haven't 
unpacked all the boxes.

The winter 1989 ZYMURGY contains an article called "An Easy Guide to Recipe 
Formulation" by Monica Favre and Tracy Loysen.  They reference an AHA 
publication, "How to Use Specialty Malts, with Malt Extract Conversions", 
which I do not have.  I have not used this method, but plan on tryying it the 
next time I brew.  Here are the adjunct malt characteristics and malt extract
conversions from the table in the article: 

Adjunct Malt Characteristics:

black patent malt:  dry, burnt, charcoal bitterness
roasted barley:     coffee-like bitterness, roasted flavor
chocolate malt:     dark color, toasted flavor
crystal malt:       sweet, amber color, adds body

Malt Extract Conversions:

5 lbs. Very Dark Extract =    5 lbs. light or amber malt extract + 2 cups 
                              black, roasted, or chocolate

5 lbs. Amber Extract =        5 lbs. light malt extract + 2 cups crystal malt 
                     =        5 lbs. light malt extract + 1/2 cup black,
                              roasted, or chocolate

5 lbs. Medium Brown Extract = 5 lbs. light or amber malt extract + 1 cup black, 
                              roasted, or chocolate malt + (optional) 1 or 2 
                              cups crystal

The above article is an excellent source for those extract brewers who want to 
do some of their own designing of recipes without taking the step towards 
mashing.

David


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Date: Mon, 21 May 90 21:03:31 mdt
From: hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!att!drutx!homer

Subject: AHA Office


>again this November, I also hope to go to the AHA offices.  Does anybody know 
>if you can purchase stuff (like books, T-shirts) direct, on site?  I might as 
>well save on the shipping and handling costs if I can.

Yes you can purchase anything from the catalog at the office.
The office is open 8 - 5 Monday to Friday, except Wednesday 10 - 5.
They are mostly set up for mail order. If you are in a hurry, or
will be coming in at close to 5 PM, it is best to call ahead so they can
have your order ready when you arrive.

Jim Homer
att!drutx!homer


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Date: Mon, 21 May 90 21:04:05 mdt
From: hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!ihlpl!korz (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Subject: TEA!?!?

>I was trying to think of what I could do with 5-10 gallons of
>nearly-boiling water and all I could thing of was to make a hell of a lot
>of tea.

Good gosh Chris! TEA! What about homebrew?!?!?
I pre-boil my water to kill off nasties and then chill it.  Since I suddenly,
with the purchase of a home, must pay for water, I think that I will (and
should have been even when it was "free") be more frugal with the water I use.
I'll probably catch gallons 2 through 6 and use them for the next batch.

Al Korzonas   Alkor Brewing Company, Palos Hills, IL (formerly Hickory Hills).


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Date: Mon, 21 May 90 21:04:14 mdt
From: hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!ihlpl!korz (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Subject: priming w/malt

I agree with John Polstra that weight-for-weight is the way to go,
except that you need to add 20% by weight MORE powdered malt
because powdered malt is not 100% fermentable whereas corn sugar is.

Al.


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Date: Mon, 21 May 90 21:37:49 EDT
From: Len Reed <lbr%holos0 at gatech.edu>
Subject: no subject (file transmission)

Subject: Invert Sugar (Time to get out the old textbooks)

Eric Pepke( pepke at gw.scri.fsu.edu), in #421, writes:

>Invert sugar (sometimes labelled CORN SUGAR or DEXTROSE) can be regarded 
>as the standard brewing sugar.  Ready made invert comes in the
>form of a crystalline mass containing approximately 10 per cent water.

I don't think so.  But we're both computer experts, not organic chemists.

From my wife's organic chemistry book[1], I gather the invert sugar is
a di-saccharide consisting of D-(+)-glucose and D-(-)-fructose.  The
first of these is dextrose (dextrorotary glucose); the second is
levorotary fructose.  So what we have is right-handed glucose plus
left-handed fructose.

Common table sugar (sucrose) is similar; it is dextrose + dextrorotary
fructose.

Honey is mostly invert sugar; the bees supply the invertase, which is
the enzyme that inverts the fructose.  Yeast also can generate invertase.
They will do this if you put sucrose in your beer.  The yeast will make
invertase to convert sucrose into invert sugar.

So if you add invert sugar instead of sucrose, you'll save the yeast a
step.  There is an ongoing argument over whether the inversion process
creates unhappy byproducts.

In any event, invert sugar is not dextrose.  Dave Line, in the Big
Book of Brewing [2], describes a process to invert sucrose with citric
acid.  He dances around the issue a big, but it's pretty clear that he's
talking about a left-handed di-saccharide.

However, my Webster's, while noting that the above definition of invert
sugar is #1, lists "dextrose obtained from starch" as a number two
definition!  This can't be what Dave Line intended, though, as it
conflicts with his writing.

[1] Organic Chemistry, Morrison and Boyd, 3rd ed., (c) 1973, p. 1118.

[2] Dave Line _The Big Book of Brewing_, p. 61.

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Date: Mon, 21 May 90 20:52:08 EDT
From: Len Reed <lbr%holos0 at gatech.edu>
Subject: no subject (file transmission)

Subject: Re: Mike Leonard doesn't rate
In #421 hplabs!polstra!norm (Norm Hardy) writes:

> I was sipping on a Paulaner Thomas-Brau non-alcoholic beer when I read the
> testing where Mike Leonard recognized that he was drinking a non-alcoholic
> beer and refused to score it.  Why?

The simple fact is that "non-alcoholic beer" is a contradiction.  Note
that the brewers don't call their 1/2% alcohol malt beverages beer; I'm not
sure, but I doubt that they legally could call it beer even if they wanted to.

> Is there something WRONG with beer that has less than .5% alcohol?  Does 
> alcohol have to be a major part of the equation?  

Yes.

In a similar vein, what's wrong with ice cream that's low in fat?  Fat, like
alcohol, is bad.   (Or so the diet police tell us.)  But if you lower the
fat below a certain minimum, the USDA won't let you call it ice cream.  Lower
the fat enough in margarine and you get "spread."  Lower the sugar in jelly
and you get "spread."

This is not arbitrary or pedantic.  Alcohol has taste.  The presence of alcohol
in beer is historically more important than hops (which have only a few
centuries of use), and more important than barley malt (beer can be made
entirely from other grains).  Alcohol is one of the major contributors to
the smell, taste, and mouth feel of beer.  Moderate amounts of alcohol are
at the very core of what makes beer, beer.  Concentrate the alcohol by
distillation and you have whiskey; take it out and you get non-alcoholic
malt beverage.

This is not to say that de-alcoholized beer is necessarily bad, only that
it's not beer.  If you want to judge it, put it in a special category.

> Question:  would homebrewers like to try a brewing system that allowed them
> to make excellent beers with a lower final alcohol level?

The non-alcoholic "beers" I've had were less than satisfactory.  Most tended
to be horribly balanced to malt (underhopped).  O'Doule's was better
balanced, but runs head up against the _real_ problem.  Alcohol has taste.
O'Doule's tastes weird because it lacks alcohol.

I'm guessing, do do the brewers use low temperature evaporation?  Sounds
messy and perhaps dangerous to do at home.

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End of HOMEBREW Digest #422, 05/22/90
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