FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org *************************************************************** THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY: Your Company Name and Contact Info Here! Visit http://hbd.org/sponsorhbd_table.shtml for more info! Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site! ********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html ********* Contents: Re: Invert Sugar Procedure and HBD Search Index ("Greg 'groggy' Lehey") re: A brief return to bottling (MOREY Dan) RE: Invert Sugar (eIS) - Eastman" <stjones@eastman.com> Coffee Roaster Applications (Bob Hall) coffee roaster ("Spencer W. Thomas") Bottling part of a batch (Michael) Re: Carbs (Bill Wible) bottling for competition (Leo Vitt) Re: Wombat Stew Or Wombat Brew? ("Dan McFeeley") The Perfect Brew House ("Phil Yates")
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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 17:24:59 +1030 From: "Greg 'groggy' Lehey" <grog at lemis.com> Subject: Re: Invert Sugar Procedure and HBD Search Index On Monday, 5 January 2004 at 21:31:04 -0500, rickdude02 at earthlink.net wrote: > Fellow Brewgeeks (emphasis on geek for this question): > > A mention has come up in my local club about preparing an > invert sugar solution. I seem to recall that it is possible to > rotate dextrose by boiling it in an acid solution, but details > escape me. Further, it's been quite a few years since P-chem > and I'm not even sure how to begin to try and research this. > > Anyone familiar with the process? You can't change dextrose in an acid solution. What you're thinking of is hydrolyzing sucrose. Sucrose exhibits a mild right-rotation. When you hydrolyze it, you get equal quantities of laevulose (fructose) and dextrose (glucose). Laevulose is more optically active than dextrose. As the names suggest, they rotate to the left and right respectively, so the resultant solution rotates to the left: you've inverted the rotation, which is why it's called "invert sugar". To do this, make a solution of sucrose in water (about 1.030-1.045 SG), bring to the boil, add a teaspoon or two of citric acid and boil for about 10 minutes, or until your polarimeter shows that the reaction is complete. Greg - -- Finger grog at lemis.com for PGP public key. See complete headers for address and phone numbers. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 08:13:26 -0600 From: MOREY Dan <dan.morey at cnh.com> Subject: re: A brief return to bottling Nathan, I woud recommend that you preceed with: (c) Keg most of it, but bottle a little and prime those (with PrimeTabs, most likely). Seems difficult to calibrate, having never used PrimeTabs before. Here is a simple guide you can use: 1. Determine the amount of priming sugar you would use for a 5 gallon batch in term of cups. For example, 3/4 cup corn sugar for 5 gallons. 2. Since there are 48 tsp in a cup, and a 5 gallon batch produces approximately 48 bottle, the tsp required per bottle will be the same as the cups required for 5 gallons. So for this example, add 3/4 tsp of corn sugar to each bottle. I have not had any problems using this technique. I have been using it for over a decade. I've never used Prime Tabs and cannot comment on them. Dan Morey Club B.A.B.B.L.E. http://hbd.org/babble [213.1, 271.5] mi Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 09:40:58 -0500 From: "Jones, Steve (eIS) - Eastman" <stjones at eastman.com> Subject: RE: Invert Sugar Rick Theiner asks about the process of making invert sugar. Graham Sanders has a set of instructions on making Candi sugar by boiling a sugar solution with citric acid, and I have a copy of those instructions on our club website. The link is http://hbd.org/franklin/public_html/docs/candi_sugar.html. I've not yet made any, but it seems rather easy. Rick, if you try it be sure to let us know how it works. Steve Jones, Johnson City, TN State of Franklin Homebrewers (http://hbd.org/franklin) [421.8 mi, 168.5 deg] AR Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 10:39:25 -0500 From: Bob Hall <rallenhall at toast.net> Subject: Coffee Roaster Applications My wife is considering the purchase of a coffee roaster, and in order to convince me she said, "I'm sure that you could use it in your (beer) brewing." OK, I'll ask. Do any of you ever use a coffee roaster in your beer and ale production? Bob Hall Napoleon, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 10:56:54 -0500 From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <spencer at umich.edu> Subject: coffee roaster (As an HBD janitor, I get a sneak preview, so I'm taking advantage...) Bob Hall asks: >My wife is considering the purchase of a coffee roaster, and in order to >convince me she said, "I'm sure that you could use it in your (beer) >brewing." OK, I'll ask. Do any of you ever use a coffee roaster in your >beer and ale production? > No, I haven't used my coffee roaster in making beer. I'm not sure how you would, although I could see using it maybe to make emergency chocolate or black malt. :-) Of course, if your tastes run to Java Stout, there's an OBVIOUS application! That said, I find roasting coffee to be an obvious adjunct / follow on to making beer. Both let you take control of the means of production, guarantee the freshest possible product, let you experiment with different "recipes" (bean origins, blends and roast levels in the case of coffee). As I have discovered since I started roasting, coffee flavor degrades even more quickly than beer flavor. I toss any beans more than about a week old now, because the flavor has gone "bad." I find my coffee is best from about 1-5 days after roasting. It's really hard to get this level of freshness from any commercial coffee, unless you've got a local roaster and you're willing to visit at least a couple times a week. Be warned, thought. It's a slippery slope! I started out with an existing popcorn popper. Before I knew it, I was haunting the local thrift shops. I bought three more poppers (gave one away, one is a spare.) Then I just had to buy an electronic thermocouple thermometer. And for better control I built a split-circuit voltage control with a Variac for the heating element and a voltage-boosted dimmer for the fan speed. Others have added PID control to their roasters (shades of the RIMS/HERMS discussions here on the HBD.) And that's not to mention the two espresso machines, a new grinder (and I'm trolling Ebay for a better one), new coffee maker (the old one just didn't hack it), etc. etc. Not to mention the time I spend reading the home-roasters email list. Give it a try! It's lots of fun and the rewards are almost immediate. =Spencer (I'm curious -- which roaster are she/you thinking of getting?) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 12:33:21 -0600 From: Michael <grice at binc.net> Subject: Bottling part of a batch Nathan asked about bottling part of a batch. In my limited experience with a counterpressure filler (bought in October or November, used once so far), it's a bit difficult to figure out how to use but isn't that bad once you get used to it. I did waste a bit more beer than I would have liked (probably the equivalent of 3-4 bottles). I have read some complaints about oxidation with one of these; perhaps someone could comment. Primetabs work fine--I have used them to bottle part of a couple of batches. The thing you want to keep in mind is that the beer should definitely be degassed, or you'll get some foaming. They're not at all difficult to calibrate. but the amount of carbonation is hard to tweak. It's easy to reduce carbonation by a third by using two tablets instead of three, but it's not easy to reduce carbonation by (for instance) a tenth. If you want finer control over carbonation, just use sugar (which will be more difficult to measure). Oh, and the bottles should be cold using either method, I believe, in order to reduce the possiblity of foaming. Michael Middleton WI Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 14:10:44 -0500 From: Bill Wible <bill12 at brewbyyou.net> Subject: Re: Carbs >Miller-lite and MichUltra are both examples of very low >carbohydrate beers - what Kunze calls "dietetic" beers. >These are correctly differentiated from lower-calorie >"light" beers like Sam Adams Light at 9.7 grams of carbs >per bottle or Mich Light at 11.7 grams of carbs per bottle. >[A regular SA lager is 18 grams, and Mich 13.3 ]. So if Miller Lite and IC Light were ALREADY low-carb beers, then what is the BIG DEAL about Michelob freakin' Ultra?? Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 12:02:55 -0800 (PST) From: Leo Vitt <leo_vitt at yahoo.com> Subject: bottling for competition Nathan from MIT was wandering how he should go about getting beer bottled for a competiton. I suggest Nathan go with his option C: "c) Keg most of it, but bottle a little and prime those (with PrimeTabs, most likely). Seems difficult to calibrate, having never used PrimeTabs before." I have never used primetabs. But I see enough statements on HBD saying they are reliable for me to trust them. They are basicly sugar in consistantly sized tablets. I suggest you do more bottles than you expect to send to competitions. Give yourself some to test and verify. Also, you could break one or two. If you intend to send off 6 bottles, (for more than one comp) double that! ===== Leo Vitt Sidney, NE Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 14:08:04 -0600 From: "Dan McFeeley" <mcfeeley at keynet.net> Subject: Re: Wombat Stew Or Wombat Brew? Phil Yates wondered: >Being an experimental brewer, I could be tempted to discover what >fermented wombat tastes like. But somehow I suspect the fur caught >on the back of the throat would destroy the otherwise delicate flavours >of a fine rice lager. Sounds like you're working toward an Australian Scrumpy. Never mind the rice lager -- start with a cider base, throw in wombat, and you've got it! :-) <><><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Dan McFeeley Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 08:39:52 +1100 From: "Phil Yates" <phil.yates at bigpond.com> Subject: The Perfect Brew House Well it's going to be the perfect Brew House after I get a few minor issues sorted out. This was originally a free standing garage at the rear of the house which the previous owners had converted into separate accommodation for guests. Unfortunately it wasn't done all that well and things such as insulation were not included. On the plus side, all the plumbing for shower, toilet and even a laundry have been installed. It gets dreadfully cold in winter and dreadfully hot in summer, but I'll get that sorted. I've converted one of the bedrooms into my office. The other (unfortunately right along side) is Jill's. I ripped up the carpet in the main area (much to Jill's horror) and declared it a child free, wife free, dog free brewing site. Fortunately, brewers in Australia can still administer these rights though neither Jill nor Phoebe pay any attention. I have though, held my ground with Jill's four dogs who used to pee indiscriminately on my equipment in Burradoo. One curious thing I have puzzled over has been an odd screeching sound coming from the toilet plumbing after a visit. I assumed it was something to do with the water pump. I had to get Wes (an expert on these matters) in to find the fault. After much consideration, Wes announced that the problem was not at all mechanical and that it was his belief I had a Wollondilly Water Frog taken residence in the plumbing of the toilet. No wonder he's been doing some screeching! Anyway, how better can a brewer have it? Whilst working from my office I can keep a close eye on the brew. The shower is perfect for washing out kegs and the dogs can't pee on my equipment. Somewhere beneath my feet is a fat fury creature but I'll leave that alone for now. When the world looks bad, I take it out on the frog living in the toilet and ignore the screeching which goes on for the next fifteen minutes. I find this far more convenient than writing abusive emails to Eric Fouch for stress relief. Where are you Eric? Get your brewing gear together and write an acceptable post to HBD! Phil Return to table of contents
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