FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org *************************************************************** THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY: Beer, Beer, and More Beer Visit http://morebeer.com to show your appreciation! Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site! ********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html ********* Contents: Thomas Hardy ale ("Peter A. Ensminger") Re: Gas Cooker Regulator ("Spencer Graham") Re: more on hop tea (Demonick) Hop Tea ("Jay Spies") Few Things To Learn ("Jay Spies") Interesting Story about Diacetyl ("Pete Calinski") Cheap Conicals - just one more (Dean) Re: All Grain (Aaron Gates) Darkhorse Belgium Amber Ale clone ("Jeff Henze") Whiskey Barrels (Crossno Clan) Thomas Hardy Recipe ("David Craft")
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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 00:04:45 -0500 From: "Peter A. Ensminger" <ensmingr at twcny.rr.com> Subject: Thomas Hardy ale I just received the email below re Thomas Hardy ale. NAYYY. Cheerio! Peter A. Ensminger Syracuse, NY http://hbd.org/ensmingr - ---- I now have 3 cases of Thomas Hardy ale. $121.49 a case. $5.49 a bottle. Brian Brandt Beer Customer Service Sam's Wines & Spirits The World's Wine Superstore & More http://www.samswine.com/ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 09:07:30 -0500 From: "Spencer Graham" <Spencer.Graham at mail.wvu.edu> Subject: Re: Gas Cooker Regulator I concur with the most recent responses to this issue of poor performance on an old gas burner. Every once in a while I need to take mine apart and use a wire brush on it to clean away some rust and spider webs. It's relatively easy to clean and put back together. As for removing the regulator, one word of caution... BOOOOOOM ! They make regulators for a reason. Remember what Smokey The Bear says... "Only YOU can prevent brewery fires." Spence Spencer W. Graham, II MBA Media Specialist West Virginia University Extended Learning One Waterfront Place 1st Floor Room 1500-D P.O. Box 6877 Morgantown, West Virginia 26506 (304) 293-1305 Extension 3# Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving all pretty and preserved, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming---"WOW! What a ride!" -- Anonymous Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 07:26:35 -0800 From: Demonick <demonick at zgi.com> Subject: Re: more on hop tea I've tried some hop teas. The issue that has bothered me about them is the pH of the water used. Hop acids need an acidic environment to isomerize and become more soluble. Wort in the boil generally has a pH in the mid to low 5s, so it is somewhat acidic. The pH of green beer is generally a point less than the wort, low 4s, so dry-hopping sees a more acidic solution than the boil. We might consider reducing the pH of the water used in a hop tea with some sort of brew-appropriate acid. Phosphoric or lactic comes to mind. This may be a sacreligious suggestion, but perhaps using hop extracts would be more effective. Domenick Venezia Venezia & Company, LLC Maker of PrimeTab (206) 782-1152 phone (206) 782-6766 fax Seattle, WA demonick at zgi dot com http://www.primetab.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 10:31:48 -0500 From: "Jay Spies" <jayspies at citywidehomeloans.com> Subject: Hop Tea All - Jim Saracco sez re: hop teas: <<<After the primary fermentation, I transferred to two 2.5 gal carboys; in one I added a bit of "hop tea" made from adding some hops.........to a couple of cups of cool water, which I then brought to a boil, and then killed the heat.>>> Jim, my conjecture is that you didn't perceive any difference in hoppiness because you didn't let the hop tea boil long enough. It seems that you brought it to a boil and then killed the heat right away. The reason that bittering hops give bitterness is that they're boiled for an hour or so. Let the hop tea boil away for an hour and I'll bet you get much more bitterness as the hop oils get isomerized. Add some aroma hops toward the end of your "tea boil" and I'll bet it contributes hop aroma as well. What I'm not sure of is if water will produce the same isomerizing effect as wort - i.e. if you'll get less bitterness b/c it's being boiled in water and not wort. Then again, that's why we experiment! I'm going to try this experiment b/c I have a keg of a Sierra Nevada clone that's underhopped for my tastes. I'll report back once I get some results. I hope others do the same. Jay Spies Head Mashtun Scraper Asinine Aleworks Baltimore, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 10:47:14 -0500 From: "Jay Spies" <jayspies at citywidehomeloans.com> Subject: Few Things To Learn All - Jim Barnhart asks about first AG batch experiences. A few thoughts... For a 10 gallon batch, 30 lbs of grain will give you a mighty big beer....did you take an OG measurement with a hydrometer at the end of the boil or after the sparge? When you soaked the grains in water, what temperature was the resulting mash? Sparging with half a gallon of water is basically what's referred to as a "batch sparge". This means that instead of replacing the wort that you drain out with hot water (like a coffee pot does), you're basically draining the mashtun dry. With the quantity of grain that you used, this'll likely work, but you will definitely have some strong beer....what was the recipe you were scaling up? Hopefully not a British Mild! ;) <<<I read somewhere, that you want to sparge the grains the entire time you are transferring from your Mash Tun to your Boil Kettle>>> This is called "fly sparging" and it's basically the opposite of just draining the mashtun. Most brewers do this, but great beer can be made either way. Fly sparging is usually more efficient, as you use less grain for a given target gravity. However, do one or the other. If you batch sparge, usually you mash, recirculate the wort from the mashtun outlet back to the top of the mash bed until it runs clear, then drain the mashtun into the kettle. Refill the mashtun with hot water. Repeat. Fly sparging replaces the wort with water at an equal rate. 2 very big hints: 1) Go to John Palmer's excellent website http://www.howtobrew.com/. Download his book and buy it. It's the best way to get your hands around brewing. 2) If you like the hobby, invest the $25 in Jeffrey Donovan's great brewing software at http://www.promash.com/. For my money it cant be beat. But most of all, keep on brewin' !!! Jay Spies Head Mashtun Scraper Asinine Aleworks Baltimore, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 11:08:44 -0500 From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net> Subject: Interesting Story about Diacetyl EPA STUDIES CHEMICALS EMITTED FROM MICROWAVE POPCORN LINKED TO LUNG DISEASE from Associated Press The Environmental Protection Agency is studying the chemicals released into the air when a bag of microwave popcorn is popped or opened. Exposure to vapors from butter flavoring in microwave popcorn has been linked to a rare lung disease contracted by factory workers in Missouri, Illinois, Iowa and Nebraska. The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health has said it suspects the chemical diacetyl caused the illnesses. However, health officials insist people who microwave popcorn and eat it at home are not in danger. http://snipurl.com/513d Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY http://hbd.org/pcalinsk Brewing vicariously through the HBD. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 14:02:18 -0800 From: Dean <dean at deanandadie.net> Subject: Cheap Conicals - just one more Back in #4482 I posted looking for people to join me in a bulk order to Toledo Metal Spinning. Three of you responded. This was not the volume I was looking for, however the real savings comes when you make an order of 5 or more. So, I am looking for at least one more person interested in joining us for a bulk order to TMS. An order of 5-9 units saves us $42 over ordering individually. So, here is a re-cap of the deal. I am ordering TMS16914, which is a 12.2 gallon ss cylindro-concial hopper. 1. Email me if you are interested. Let me know if you want me to order a lid for you as well. 2. Once I get another interested party, I will send out a due date for payments. Payments received after the due date will be returned and not be included in the order. 3. When I receive the order, I'll ship out the hopper to you via USPS delivery racking (or whatever's cheap and trackable). As an incentive I will deliver free of charge anywhere within 50 miles of 94062. TMS informs me that an order of five hoppers and lids comes in three boxes, 2 at 50lbs (18" x 18" x 32") and 1 @ 25lbs (18" x 18" x 23"). My zip code is above, you may calculate postage from my place to yours. From there to me the postage comes out to about $22 per person for an order of 5. (This is postage you would already be paying.) Other things you need to know: 1. There are no holes in the hoppers. (Except for a big one at the top ;-) 2. You will need to purchase dump valve and side racking arm assemblies. Zymco sells products designed for this (NAYY). 3. The hoppers don't stand up by themselves. Zymco also sells a stand. I think I'll make mine out of painted pvc. 4. You will need some sort of lid. I plan on making mine out of acrylic. 5. If you don't buy the Zymco stand kit, you need a seal and some way to clamp the lid down. allorings.com sells an o-ring that should fit. You'll still need to get an airtight seal. I plan on taking the plunge into "open" fermenters, and just setting the lid on my fermenter. Posts about Toledo Metal Spinning on the HBD: (2 lines) http://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Ahbd.org+inurl%3Aarchive+%22toledo+ metal+spinning%22 or http://tinyurl.com/2u67f Toledo Metal Spinning's hopper product list: http://www.toledometalspinning.com/products/hoppers/priceList.asp Open Fermenters on the HBD (2 lines) http://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Ahbd.org+inurl%3Aarchive+ %22open+fermenter%22 or http://tinyurl.com/2vzbu - --Dean - Unscrambler of eggs - -- Take your time, take your chances [2045.2, 273.7] Apparent Rennerian - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ It matters not how strait the gate / How charged with punishment the scroll I am the master of my fate / I am the captain of my soul. -- Invictus -- -- William E Henley -- Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 15:08:46 -0800 (PST) From: Aaron Gates <aaronlgates at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: All Grain Re: All Grain Congratulations on your Brew Tree Jim! Nice set up. 30 lbs of grain is a decent gravity beer! I might double check that conversion. .7 lb light DME or .9 lb light malt extract syrup for every lb of pale malt(per Charlie's 'Companion') Speaking of Charlie, I would definitely invest in this sacred text: 'The New Complete Joy of Home Brewing' by Charlie Papazian (Avon Books). Any man with a tier system such as you have should certainly own one of these beauties. ".....My Recipe called for soaking the grains in 10 gallons of water...." For 30 pounds, 7.5 gallons of water would do. A good rule of thumb is 1 quart H2O per 1 lb grain for the mash('soak'). The sparge water should be figured at 1/2 gallon per 1 lb grain, so 15 gallons would be the ideal, but it never seems to be just right..... always plan for more. I just keep the level of sparge water higher than the grain bed and sparge away at a nice slow rate(1 hr total). That should do it.... I love all grain brewing and have a 1/2 barrel system like the one you have without the tier....that comes soon. Aaron P.S. Thanks all for the great feedback on the burner/regulator issue. Our local homebrew club president Lee Henderson of the Humbrewers actually called me up yesterday after seeing my post and offered up a new regulator to try out and see how that does. Now I have this little baby and I'll give it a try.... I will try cleaning my burner out a little better as well. I really did appreciate the humor in some of the responses. I most certainly will have enough beer for the wake in the event of a propane explosion!! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 20:11:17 -0500 From: "Jeff Henze" <jeff at henze.us> Subject: Darkhorse Belgium Amber Ale clone I was thinking that I'd like to try and brew an all-grain batch similar to Dark Horse Brewing Company's Belgium Style Amber Ale. It has a pronounced clove flavor, but I'm not sure if this is from cloves, or if the yeast creates that flavor. They describe it as: "An Amber Ale made with malted barley and wheat this brew is sweet and given a hint of spice by the Belgian strain of yeast we use. The sweetness of this ale is characteristic of Belgian ales... ...Alc%: 5.0 - 5.5" Does anyone have an all grain recipe that is similar to this beer? Thanks, - --Jeff Henze, Canton, Michigan Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 20:03:59 -0600 From: Crossno Clan <crossno at tnns.net> Subject: Whiskey Barrels My insider at Jack Daniel's has moved on to dryer pastures, unfortunately. I'll try to ask around and see if I can find a new source. Glyn in middle TN This Email has been scanned for viruses, courtesy of Tnets.net Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 21:26:43 -0500 From: "David Craft" <chsyhkr at bellsouth.net> Subject: Thomas Hardy Recipe Greetings, I have been researching this beer and see recipes that go two ways. A superstrong barleywine with an ordinary boil and 10-20% crystal or all Pale Malt with a really long boil? Any preferences out there? David B. Craft Battleground Brewers Guild Crow Hill Brewery and Meadery Greensboro, NC Return to table of contents
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