HOMEBREW Digest #45 Tue 10 January 1989

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Champagne bottle capping (Mark J. Bradakis)
  Root ginger (Jeremy Cook)
  Rootbeer (Long Distance Voyager               )
  Storing homebrew (Andy Newman)
  A number of different things (CRF)
  Sake recipe (David Herron)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 9 Jan 89 23:31:57 MST From: mjb%hoosier at cs.utah.edu (Mark J. Bradakis) Subject: Champagne bottle capping Just a quick tip. Since the lip around which the wire wraps on champagne bottles can interfere with the bell of the capper, it is possible to get less than adequate seals. Chuck Hansen, one of the Fat Chance brewers, found that using two caps stacked together works pretty well. The top cap is bent enough to force the lower cap to give a better seal. mjb. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 89 09:03:42 +0100 From: Jeremy Cook <jeremy at kheops.cmi.no> Subject: Root ginger Mike Meyer writes: >My batch of 'Slow Lori's Ginger Lager', ... >... this batch has a really >nasty bacterial infection, though, and I suspect that I should have peeled >the ginger, which doesn't seem to dominate the flavor much so far. I don't know the details of how the ginger was added but here's my experience from a really delicious ginger wine that I made at the end of '87. I took the root ginger and scrubbed it well under the tap with a vegetable brush. Then I bruised the ginger well by thumping it with a rolling pin and boiled it up (with lemon and rasins for the g wine) and simmered for an hour. The boiling ex- tracts all the flavor from the ginger whilst making sure there aren't any nasties left. There is one side effect from this method and that is that the wine was a bit on the cloudy side when it was finished and I couldn't get rid of the haze by filtering or any other means. I either clogged my filter with too much powder or didn't use enough, letting the haze through. In the end I gave up. It is now crystal clear after standing for over a year in the cellar (I only managed to keep one bottle for that long!). Hope this helps. -- Jeremy Cook jeremy at kheops.cmi.no Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 89 08:22 EST From: Long Distance Voyager <VOYAGER%IRISHMVS.BITNET at UICVM.UIC.EDU> Subject: Rootbeer Not that I make it or anything, but what of rootbeer? And I once had something called "birchbark beer" kinda snuck up on ya.... I hesitate to mention these things since I have found that of the dozen or so homebrewer's I've met, the majority tend to look down on anything "non-alcoholic." Am I just being paranoid or should I sit back down? R.allen Jervis Voyager at irishmvs.bitnet Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 89 10:48 EST From: Andy Newman <NEWMAN at Venus.YCC.Yale.Edu> Subject: Storing homebrew Up to this point I have yet to find a really good way of storing the brew that I make. 12 oz bottles clear quickly and fit in the refrigerator conveniently but are a general pain in the neck to clean and sterilize in bulk. Pressure kegs are much easier to clean but even the smallest seem to take up too much fridge-room. More seriously, they seem to always have either too much or too little pressure. I seem to get 5 or 6 pints of foam followed by about 2 pints of acceptable ale. After that, the keg threatens to gulp air and I have to inject more CO2 which essentially puts me back at square one. Recently I have been reading about using champagne bottles. This would seem to be a good compromise except pouring anything less than the whole bottle would stir up the yeast at the bottom. Since I don't have a lot of 25.4 oz beer glasses :^) I would presumably have to either limit my intake to one pint at a time :( or I would have to open several bottles in parallel. Currently I bottle most of my beer in 12 oz bottles because it has the fewest drawbacks. I am curious as to whether anyone has found a substantially better solution. -Andy Newman Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 8 Jan 89 16:20 EDT From: <CRF%IFASGNV.BITNET at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU> Subject: A number of different things Hi there! Our system was down for maintenance for a few days, so this will be another multiple-topic set of comments. SAKE: Here, including the name and address (for accreditation purposes) of the sender, is the sake recipe I obtained. Mr. Herron is also a member of the historical re-enactment society I belong to. Date: 4 Jan 89 19:09:39 GMT From: mailrus!ukma!davids.UUCP!david at cis.ohio-state.edu (David Herron) Subject: Sake recipe Message-Id: <8901041409.AA06367 at davids.UUCP> I have one. I cannot vouch for it's accuracy as I've never tried it, however it comes from a printed collection of wine recipes, the entire booklet it Copyright (c) 1976 by Raymond Massaccesi, is titled _Winemaker's_ _recipe_handbook_. It's avaliable for low cost from: Semplex of U.S.A. PO Box 11476 Minneapolis, MN 55411 About the only thing I would do to this recipe is remove the raisins. I typed it verbatim from the book and there is no warranty as to fitness or merchantability of the product described. All rights reserved :-). I wasn't going to post it to the newsgroup, but since a third voice popped up asking for it ... (This is a cute little booklet, anybody interested in the recipe for Onion Wine?) ---------------------------> Cut Here <---------------------------------- Rice Wine -- Saki 2 1/2 lb Rice (husked or raw rice, if available) 1/2 pt Grape Concentrate or 1 lb Lt raisins 7 pts Water (hot) 2 1/2 lb Sugar or Honey 3 tsp Acid Blend 3/4 tsp Energizer 1 Campden tablet, crushed 1 pkg Sherry Yeast Method. 1. Wash and coarse crush rice. Place rice and chopped raisins into nylon straining bag, tie top, and place in primary 2. Pour hot water over and stir in all other ingredients EXCEPT yeast and energizer. Cover primary. 3. After 48 hrs add yeast and energizer and cover primary. 4. Stir daily, check Specific Gravity (S.G.) and press pulp lightly. 5. When ferment reaches S.G. 1.050 (2-3 days) add another 1/4 lb dissolved sugar per gallon (or 1/4 lb honey, of course). 6. At S.H. 1.030 (6-7 days) strain juice from bag. Syphon wine off sediment into glass secondary. Attach airlock. 7. At S.G. 1.020 add another 1/4 lb dissolved sugar per gallon. 8. When ferment is complete (S.G. 1.000, about 3 weeks) syphon off sediment into clean secondary. Reattach lock. 9. To aid clearing syphon again in 2 months and again if necessary before bottling. Optional: You may continue to build up alcohol by adding additional doses of sugar until ferment ceases. To sweeten add before bottling 1/2 tsp Stabilizer, then, add 1/4 lb dissolved sugar per gallon. CHAMPAGNE BOTTLES: Are wonderful things, *if* you remember that you want bottles from _cheap_ champagne, such as _Andre's_. If the champagne had a real cork, with a wire restraint, it'll never take a bottle cap. Also: you will need a bench-top bottle capper; the little hand-held types are only good for long-necks. SUGAR: I have always known that sucrose produces a cidery flavor, which is undesireable in beer. When using a kit, I've always assumed "sugar" meant corn sugar (maltose, I believe). Also good for substitution is crystal malt, on a pound-for-pound basis, steeped in lukewarm water for 20 minutes. The water is then strained out to be used in the wort. BOTTLE SANITATION: The following remarks are based on my microbiology experience. When I rinse my bottles after chlorination, I allow them to drain upside-down in a thoroughly scalded-out drainboard until I'm ready to use them. Then, I line them up on the newspaper-covered floor (I'm too much of a klutz not to take spill precautions) _on_their_sides_. Leaving them on their sides will help keep them internally sterile, with minimal chances of contamination (in microbiology, when you are culturing from tube-to-tube, you hold the tubes parallel to the floor). Once filled, the now-upright bottle has a sterile cap placed on it. This protects the brew until the cap is crimped down. KEGS: General thanks to those who replied to my questions. Cher Feinstein "CRF at IFASGNV.BITNET" Return to table of contents
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