HOMEBREW Digest #4581 Fri 13 August 2004

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  Re: blichmannengineering Therminator (Abe Kabakoff)
  Bottling with Graham (RoadGlyn)
  Attract the opposite sex, the ultimate guide for getting women. ("Stefanie Burnett")
  Water modification and putting ZIP back in your sex life ("Jim Bermingham")
  GADS!!! ("Pat Babcock")
  Water modification ("A.J deLange")
  Need Barley to malt in the Mid-Michigan Area ("National Midnight Star Brewery")
  Wine Oxidation--Wine Bottle Headspace Pump ("Janie Curry")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 22:47:38 -0500 From: Abe Kabakoff <abe_kabakoff at gmx.de> Subject: Re: blichmannengineering Therminator Scott D. Braker-Abene said: > > Yes... They look damn sweet... I would hesitate only because it is a > plate heat exchanger that you cannot take apart to clean. Plate > chiller are fantastic efficiency wise but also get down right filthy > and grubby in a commercial brewery. > > They have to be taken apart and soaked on a semi regular basis. To me > not being able to dismantle is a draw back... Some professional brewers take apart their chillers more or less annually, but in a semi-recent discussion on the AOB Forum the need to take them apart was discussed. As in all internet discussions, no conclusion was reached. I am a commercial brewer, and I know that our heat exchanger has been in service for almost 10 years, and has not been taken apart. I obviously have not seen the inside, but if I run clean caustic through it, it comes out clean on the other side. The only reason to ever really take apart a plate chiller is to replace gaskets when they leak. A friend at a different commercial brewery took his chiller apart to replace the gaskets, and reported that the plates themselves were impeccable. His chiller had been in operation for over 5 years, and was never dismantled. You do not need to take these things apart to keep them operating for years, you just need a good cleaning protocol. I suggest an acid wash and then a hot caustic wash (lye from the drain opener aisle is perfect - -- a 5% solution is more than enough) when you notice buildup. Nothing overly long, maybe 5 minutes each. Boil it before use (as suggested on their site) to sanitize it, and flush the water side with something that will remove scale when scale forms. As usual, a little maintenance as you go along can prevent a big PITA down the line. Don't worry about ever needing to take this thing apart. Abe Kabakoff Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 07:53:07 -0400 From: RoadGlyn at netscape.net Subject: Bottling with Graham I must admit I still bottle, and it doesn't bother me to much and can be quite fun. I sat down Thursday night with almost 20 gallons to bottle. Turned on the Craftbrewer Show and had a wonderful time. http://oz.craftbrewer.org/Library/index.shtml#Sound Thanks Graham! Thanks Pat! Bottle on, Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 10:02:33 -0200 From: "Stefanie Burnett" <stefanie.burnett_rz at rido.nl> Subject: Attract the opposite sex, the ultimate guide for getting women. Here's a special offer for you... WANT TO GET A WOMAN? The first and only pickup, dating and seduction guide. Written for men ... by women. - Increase your sexual attraction. - Give yourself that extra edge! - Improve your sex appeal 1000% - Gain more self confidence. - Command respect at work! - Get more dates! - If not satisfied, you get your money back! This is the only e-book of its kind available. You get 2 free adult videos with every order. Check out this great guide here: http://www.enhancemefast7.com - ---- system information ---- contrast Internationalization]The employ system existing mailing helpful tags future requirements place their For design Germany require represented States) able requirements invoking regulatory name interface processing provide mailing Natural Please even document limited helpful spell User appropriate allows Description end User Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 08:00:13 -0500 (Central Daylight Time) From: "Jim Bermingham" <bermingham at antennaproducts.com> Subject: Water modification and putting ZIP back in your sex life Jeremy Hanson is requesting information on modifying water to match styles and to improve efficiency. Jeremy, if you don't have one of the software programs available such as ProMash, I suggest that you go to Ken Schwartz's web page http://home.elp.rr.com/brewbeer/ and download BreWater 3.0. This a free program designed by Ken and I believe would be of great help. Graham Sanders has told me more than I really wanted to know about his encounter with SWMBO after she cornered him in the bedroom. But he had to go and ask what is a poor bloke to do when roped in. Now he has opened the door. I suppose he is at this moment looking at the two post in todays digest and is trying to find out how to put Zip back into his sex life and trying to attract the opposite sex. Unless, he is the Governor of New Jersey... Jim Bermingham Millsap, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 09:12:21 -0400 From: "Pat Babcock" <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: GADS!!! Greetings, Beerlings! Administer a dose of sedative... Aaaarrrrrggggggghhhhhhh!!! ******* spam-mongers! Well, it appears I missed a (rather obvious) misspelling of a certain drug's name in my filter. That's bad enough. Then, I note another little nugget had slipped in as well. Folks, I am going to have to accelerate my implementation of a SPAM filter. This will have a high potential to disrupt the HBD as it did the last time (though, this time, I'll build from sources rather than rely on someone elses' skills in using a binary RPM...). I have two other janitors on staff besides me, and this stuff is still getting past our reviews. It's time for more drastic measures... PUSH THE BUTTON! - -- See ya! Dr. Strangelove in SE MI pbabcock at hbd.org - -- See ya! Pat Babcock in SE MI pbabcock at hbd.org Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 14:16:29 +0100 From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net> Subject: Water modification After approximately 12 years trying to simplify brewing water chemistry I've more or less concluded you can't. It's not a difficult subject but rather an intricate one. Your college chemistry is sufficient for a thorough understanding but how many of us remembered an iota of that once we passed the final? The basic facts are that in brewing water, the only active buffering system is the carbonic/bicarbonate/carbonate one (all other acids and bases should either be fully dissociated or absent from the water). When malt is added at dough in phosphate enters the picture. Calcium phosphate is very insoluble so that if the water is hard the calcium will be stripped out. When calcium is precipitated protons are released and these protons acidify the mash. This is why brewers add gypsum to brewing water - to harden it so that malt phosphate can precipitate that hardness and release acid. Thus if you tweak carbonate, bicarbonate or calcium (magnesium acts like calcium but to a lesser extent) you will alter mash pH. Other mineral tweaks only change flavor and are really akin to adding more or less salt in other forms of cooking (adding sulfate accents hops, low levels of chloride impart an impression of sweetness, lots of chloride when sodium is also present make the beer salty...). In looking at your water report the most important item is alkalinity which is not, unfortunately, something that is always reported as, believe it or not, not all homeowners brew. If it is take half the magnesium hardness (in parts per million as calclum carbonate) and add it to the calcium hardness (same units), divide the sum by 3.5 and subtract the result from the alkalinity (in parts per million as calcium carbonate). (John Palmer's nomographs and slide rule do all this for you). The result is called Kolbach's residual alkalinity and if it is less than 50 (the lower the better - it can even be less than 0) you don't have to worry about mash pH. If it is above 50 you do. Clearly you can lower it by adding calcium and magnesium but it takes a lot of calcium (3.5 ppm per ppm of residual alklainity). This is what commercial brewers in the UK and almost every micro in the US are doing when they dump gypsum into their brews. Alternatively you can acid but don't get it from a bottle - get it from dark malt. This is what the Munich brewers are doing when then brew Dunkles. Or remove the bicarbonate from the water by boiling or lime treatment. This is what Munich brewers do when they brew Helles. Or use a combination of the above techniques. This is what any brewer can do once he has gained some experience. It's not so important that the details of the chemistry which determine mash pH be understood as it is to know how to control it. It's my opinion that the serious brewer will regard his pH meter with the same reverence as his thermometer and hydrometer; certainly professional brewers do. Unfortunately, pH meters are lots more expensive than either of those other items and lots more finicky (though the modern ISFET ones represent a great improvement in that department) and prices have come down somewhat. Equipped with a good meter you can monitor pH (throughout the brewing process - not just in the mash tun) and develop an appreciation for what effects it and how to set it. Once you have it under control you'll stop worrying about that aspect of brewing and can move on to one of the innumerable others. Matching the water profiles of famous brewing cities was a hot topic on HBD about 10 (?) years back. I think the most important conclusions from all the research done then was that many of the reported water profiles are bogus (as can be confirmed by checking to see if they are electrically neutral at reasonable pH - many if not most aren't) and that it is foolish to, for example, taylor water to mimic the cabonate levels of Munich only to turn around and decarbonate this water to make Helles. Never heard of B3's buffer. This doesn't sound very appealing to me. The best buffering system is the natural one of malt organic acids with reasonable levels of liquor residual alkalinity. This last comment is, of course, an opinion. A.J. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 16:28:12 -0400 From: "National Midnight Star Brewery" <nmstarbrewery at charter.net> Subject: Need Barley to malt in the Mid-Michigan Area Anyone know where I can get some barley to malt? I want to play around and maybe get the homebrew club to try some experimenting but I haven't been able to find a source. Any advice? Thanks! William Menzl Midland, Michigan [99.8, 344.8] Apparent Rennerian National Midnight Star Brewery nmstarbrewery at charter.net Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 21:19:03 +0000 From: "Janie Curry" <houndandcalico at hotmail.com> Subject: Wine Oxidation--Wine Bottle Headspace Pump While we are on the topic of oxidation, I'd like to solicit opions on the best pump to buy to remove air from the headspace when a bottle of wine is uncorked. I recently did a tasting room tour of Yakimah valley wineries by bike, and at several tasting rooms they immediately applied a vacum pump after each uncorking. Todd in Idaho Return to table of contents
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