FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org *************************************************************** THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY: Beer, Beer, and More Beer Visit http://morebeer.com to show your appreciation! Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site! ********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html ********* Contents: RE: Arrrggg... patooey (Glenn M Gardner) Draft beer foaming problem ("Andy Woods") Dry Hopping ("Justin De Guire") electric turkey fryers--glad to see you guys are on top of it ("larry maxwell") Big dummy does it again (" Robert Zukosky") Yeast storage Wate, urea, leaf hops, Graham Sander's mug, Airlock ("Dave Burley") copper in beer, spicy Christmas beer, vac pac hops ("Dave Burley") RE: Koji Availability, Experiments (Jim Wilson)
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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 13 Nov 2004 08:16:06 -0600 From: Glenn M Gardner <ggardner at juno.com> Subject: RE: Arrrggg... patooey Gary, I thought the same thing too after my first attempt at an Imperial Stout. But after gently aging for a year, wonderful! Bottle it and forget it for 6 months. Then let us know. My big problem was sampling every couple of weeks.....so when it was truely wonderful, alas there wasn't all that much left. Glenn in Plano Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 13 Nov 2004 11:17:24 -0500 From: "Andy Woods" <andywoods at mail.com> Subject: Draft beer foaming problem HELP ! I have a beer foaming problem that I can't fix. My setup is a chest freezer with 3 taps. Two of the three taps are for homebrew. The third is a sankey tap dedicated to my favorite local brewer - Troeg's in Harrisburg, PA (great beer, no affiliation). The beer is kept at 40 degrees F and served with 3/16" quality draft beer line at 10-12 psi CO2. The taps are approx 18-22 inches above the centers/middle of the corny kegs with the two homebrew kegs the furthest away from the taps. I get about 2/3 of a glass of foam every glass poured from the sankey. There has been lots of foam since they were installed. The system had approx 8 feet of beer line and was just changed to 20 feet, yes 20 feet. Still 2/3 foam. The homebrew taps have 7-8 feet of beer line, which still seems like a lot. It's only with the sankey tap and the 20 foot length doesn't appear to have solved the problem. I've checked for leaks of both gas and liquid - nothing. Troeg's says they pressurize their kegs to 14 psi and I've even bled off all the gas and re-pressurized to my 10-12 psi. I've read all the periodic posts and the formulas about pressure, line length, and so on. Eight feet smmes like a lot but twenty feet is way out of whack, can somebody help ? Jeff Woods Camp Hill, PA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 13 Nov 2004 16:32:01 -0500 From: "Justin De Guire" <adrenx at wowway.com> Subject: Dry Hopping At my first attempt at dry hopping, I was unable to filter out all of the hops when racking to my bottling bucket. I used pellets directly into the secondary, which made a big mess. I was curious if the quality of beer would be affected from some hops getting into the bottle. Some bottles had less than others, but I can definitely see some pieces floating around in there. Other than appearance, should the beer be okay? Next time I think I will use whole hops, hop bag, and marbles to dry hop. Any feedback would be great. Hopefully the beer will be fine and I will not have to pour it. :) Justin D. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 13 Nov 2004 21:37:46 -0500 From: "larry maxwell" <larrymax at bellsouth.net> Subject: electric turkey fryers--glad to see you guys are on top of it I haven't read the HBD in maybe a year, but I recently saw some advertisements for electric turkey fryers, and they immediately made me think of brewing. I surfed on over to the HBD to see if anything had been posted about them and was relieved to see I wasn't the only one whose interest was piqued. It did remind me that I used to enjoy reading the HBD every morning, and so maybe I will get back into the habit. Heck, maybe I'll even brew a batch one of these days real soon now. Yeah. Larry Atlanta Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2004 12:39:59 -0500 From: " Robert Zukosky" <Rzukosky at comcast.net> Subject: Big dummy does it again I was cleaning my aluminum brew pot with dish washing liquid and some tsp (the real stuff) was letting it soak and forgot to dump for 24 hours. The result is a black stain and it will not remove with heated vinegar and water. Is there a metal guy out there that has a brightner solution to my problem? Thanks for replies --------- bobz Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2004 13:25:50 -0500 From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley at charter.net> Subject: Yeast storage Wate, urea, leaf hops, Graham Sander's mug, Airlock Brewsters: Been outta town enjoying the Wisconsin hospitality. - ------------------ Reif asks what water I use to store yeast. I have used store bought distilled water as well as my own RO water after boiling and cooling. Note that distilled water is not necessarily and probably not sterile as it comes from the bottle unless it has been ozonized. Take no chances. Boil and cool all water. Grocery store water in a bottle is just someone else's tap water as is all such bottled water. - ------------------ Darrell asks: "What gives? Why us LD Carlson selling "Yeast Nutrient: Food grad urea [and] ammonium phosphate" if this stuff is bad for our health?" Well, if you ate urea ( you shouldn't, unless you are a cow or other ruminant) there is some indication an intermediate based on urea can cause cancer in mice. Ammonium phosphate in small quantites is pretty harmless as far as I know but it's no fun to eat either. The yeast will consume both of these nitrogen sources to generate amino acids ( a good thing). Therefore, if limited amounts are added to a must/wort deficient in amino acids, the yeast will consume it all and no problems in either case. Problem, if any, comes if too much urea is added. And thus my comments about prilled urea separating from the rest of the mix and too much being added. IMHO no yeast nutrient or energizer or such needs to use urea, esp when ammonmium phosphate has the potential to supply both nitrogen and phosphate.. - ---------------------- Stuart Grant asks about a cornfusing use of the term "leaf" with regard to hops. The expression "whole leaf hops" means the pinecone-like hop "flower" we normally use in brewing versus the pelletized version of the same thing. These "hop flowers " are actually modified leaf brachts and so actually are leaves, just like the showy "flower" on a poinsettia are also leaf brachts. The female hops have flowers, just not very visible. As far as I know the true leaf of the hop plant has no culinary use, unlike the early Spring-time shoots which are delicious after a few minutes in the microwave and a little salt and butter added. You could try stuffing the hops leaves with a little ground hamburger like grape leaves I guess. As far as I know they are not poisonous. - ------------------------ If you want a look at Graham Sander's Mug as well his beer mug check out: http://oz.craftbrewer.org/Library/Gear/GSanders/Gsmill.shtml - ------------------------ RAJ asks about oxygen duffusing through the airlock ( of presumably a non-fermenting carboy). you can prevent this as I do with long stored wines by using an acidic metabisulfite solution in the airlock, this prevents mold growth and reacts with the oxygen that goes in as the temperature changes. Just be careful it does not suck back in and that you change it periodically. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2004 15:26:43 -0500 From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley at charter.net> Subject: copper in beer, spicy Christmas beer, vac pac hops Brewsters: Tom Clark asks about the effect of copper and if it causes bitterness in the beer. Copper metal was used for centuries as the boiler ( aka "copper") for brewing beer. Also, copper is not soluble as metal in acid, but the oxides/hydroxides of copper are. If you are worried about this, clean your immersion coil with vinegar or hydrochloric ( pool store) acid and rinse before dipping it in the brew. Sulfate ions in beer can cause bitterness as can magnesium. Get a water analysis. You can test the effect of your water by using store bought dsitilled water as first go. I was in Hudson, WI just recently and both the tap and bottled water had a weird bitter taste. Other people had the same negative reaction. Madison was OK. Check your hops usage rate and type also. - ------------ Ralph, usually just waiting reduces the impact of added spices but you can try adding a little activated charcoal to cut back on this taste. - --------------- Joe, vacpac freezing fresh hops is an excellent way to store hops if you have the room and want to brew with fresh hops. I also do this with my basil for pesto sauce. Don't wash the basil or it will turn black Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2004 16:36:58 -0800 From: Jim Wilson <jgwilson at adelphia.net> Subject: RE: Koji Availability, Experiments Jim Wilson said: >> I've brewed a couple of batches using Fred Eckhardt's recipes and >> process and am really happy with the results. >Good! How did you get the koji/koji-kin/kome-koji? ...clip from Steinbart's in Portland, (800) 735-8793, they sell polished rice and koji from the SakeOne kura an alternative is Cold Mountain koji, which is available in Asian markets in our area (far to the West of 0-0 Rennarian) Jim Wilson o \o __o /\ / `\ <> `\ `> `\ > (*)/ (*) (*)/ (*) (*)/ (*) I ride my bicycle to ride my bicycle. Return to table of contents
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