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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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Contents:
  Re: Books on Mashing (John Palmer)
  Dry Hopping Questions (Tony Brown)
  Re: Servo for Homebrewers! ("Scott D. Braker-Abene")
  John's question re Wyeast 1056 ("Steve Dale-Johnson")
  Books on Mashing ("A.J deLange")
  Re: Homebrew in Springfield ("Kevin Morgan")
  servo; also getting my gyle on (Jon Olsen)
  re: Books on mashing? ("Chad Stevens")
  RE: A secondary tale ("Jason Gross")
  Re: Wyeast 1318 - London III ("Greg 'groggy' Lehey")


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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2004 19:36:44 -0800
From: John Palmer <jjpalmer at altrionet.com>
Subject: Re: Books on Mashing

Kurt is looking for a good book on mashing that will cover how to 
manipulate the mash parameter to target different styles.

Hopefully I am not wholly tooting my own horn here, but I think my 
book, How To Brew, does the best job at explaining how, in general, the 
mash parameters effect the fermentability of the mash and how your 
brewing water, its residual alkalinity, and the grainbill for the 
style, effect the mash pH, and its effect on mash conversion and wort 
flavor.

Other books like Designing Great Beers and Radical Brewing can give you 
a better idea than mine of what the grainbill for a particular style 
could be, and what wort characteristics to strive for.

Hope this helps,
John

John Palmer
john at howtobrew.com
www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer
www.howtobrew.com - the free online book of homebrewing




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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2004 23:21:25 -0500
From: Tony Brown <speleobopper at gmail.com>
Subject: Dry Hopping Questions

Hi All,
I dry hopped an IPA with 1 oz of Amarillo pellets by putting them
directly into the secondary fermenter with no filter bag.  It formed a
greenish-brown layer on top of the beer.  Its been almost two weeks
and the hops are still floating on top.  If I disturb the carboy it
all falls to the bottom and then all of it rises to the top again
within a short time (<30 minutes).  Should I wait until the layer
settles before bottling?

I want to bottle the beer this weekend but, obviously don't want any
hop particles in my bottles.  I don't want carbonation problems
either.  Does anyone have any suggestions for filtering the hops out
without losing too much yeast?

In the future would you suggest dry hopping in a filter bag (preboiled
of course)?

Would I be better off with whole hops rather than pellets?

Thanks for your help!
Tony


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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2004 20:44:53 -0800 (PST)
From: "Scott D. Braker-Abene" <skotrat at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Servo for Homebrewers!

GUMP writes:

>      ...ServoMyces, the yeast nutrient blessed with zinc and by brewers
> across the planet.
> 	It's about time!

This is very cool!!! Very Cool indeed...  Does it come in a nice plaid??? 

=====
"I can't help it... I love being a fart machine"
 - Heather Braker

http://www.skotrat.com/skotrat - Skotrats Beer Page
http://www.brewrats.org - BrewRats HomeBrew Club


		


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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2004 23:52:32 -0800
From: "Steve Dale-Johnson" <sdalejohnson at hotmail.com>
Subject: John's question re Wyeast 1056

John Peed in Oak Ridge, TN has been experiencing some yeasty flavours with 
wy1056 "Chico" (Sierra Nevada) Ale yeast.

I noticed this same phenom with this yeast in the last 2 batches I have 
brewed with it, a dry stout and an american style IPA.  In my case it was 
not filtered and the beers (well the IPA, can't speak for the stout) never 
did clear fully.  At two months in the keg they are finally fading from 
yeasty to just a little bready.  Never was an overly objectionable flavor to 
my palate, but, John, FWIW it's not your brewing or handling, it's the yeast 
strain.  One of mine was started from a Wyeast Activator pack and took off 
like a rocket, the other was a liter starter and did the same, so it was 
adequately pitched.

Why there aren't these flavours in SNPA (if this is actually the strain) I 
have no idea.  Temperature of ferment???

As for suggestions for your cream ales, if you don't mind a bit of well 
rounded ester, I *really* like Wyeast 1275 and if you want a super clean ale 
ferment, try the Nottingham dry yeast (really!).  Gump, bless the man, sent 
a few packs of the stuff to me when I was looking at ways to get the 
pitching rate up for a barleywine and I was quite impressed with the time 
efficiency (no starter, jst rehydrate and pitch) and speed of ferment with 
the stuff.  Nott is a little neutral for my tastes in most ales (I prefer 
the Windsor and keep it around for impulse brews) but the Nottingham is very 
appropriate for a cream ale and certainly worth a try.

Steve Dale-Johnson
Brewing at 1918 miles, 298 degrees Rennerian
Delta (Vancouver), BC, Canada.




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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 13:10:59 +0000
From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net>
Subject: Books on Mashing

There are many books that discuss mashing. I guess I'd vote for Noonan's 
"New Brewing Lager Beer" as the most comprehensive but as the title 
suggests the emphasis is on lagers. If you're in search of in depth 
knowledge then some of the textbooks (DeClerk, Hough et. al., Hardwick) 
are the way to go.

A.J,


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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 10:38:28 -0500
From: "Kevin Morgan" <kevin.morgan2 at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Homebrew in Springfield

A quick google search revealed this


Grape & Grain Unlimited 
(800) 524-6469 
800 E. Stanford, Springfield 
and this link shows a few more near St. Luis

http://www.sudswineandspirits.com/homebrewshops.htm



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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 09:36:18 -0600
From: Jon Olsen <burnunit at waste.org>
Subject: servo; also getting my gyle on


On Dec 28, 2004, at 10:28 PM, Rob Moline wrote:
> Servo for Homebrewers!
>    Finally....something Gump has used with great results...and 
> advocated for the homebrewer is now available...to 
> homebrewers...ServoMyces, the yeast nutrient blessed with zinc and by 
> brewers across the planet.

I have to admit, it's kinda funny when you go to the site, the first 
sentence reads "Servomyces is a nutritional yeast supplement (GMO free) 
that was originally developed for German brewers "  I'm glad this 
nutrient is GMO free (and veg! I have vegan friends) but we have to 
admit, technically speaking, by cultivating particular yeast strains 
for their particular genetically derived features (flavor, 
flocculation, etc) we've long been dealing with a kind of genetic 
modification.  Not going to stop me from trying this stuff out... Oh 
well.

O.K. I have this quantity of gyle that I want to use for krauesening. I 
used Papazian's formula in the back of NCJHB and saved just a little 
over a quart of wort in the back of the fridge (I did not calculate a 
specific number of volumes of CO2 I was shooting for, so it's roughing 
it a bit) .

Now that my beer is almost ready to bottle, I have a few questions:
1. has anyone here had luck with krauesening? Is it as "fresh" as 
everyone claims?
2. should I expect a bottle ring, like one gets with DME? I prefer to 
think of them as little halos. :-p
3. Do I boil the stuff before putting the wort on it? It was cooled and 
immediately transferred into a sealed jar and from there into the 
fridge, but I don't mind boiling if that will help.
4. Does it take longer to carbonate?
5. I do love the carbonation recipator at 
http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator/carbonation.html?5616698#tag 
so I'm wondering if anyone's done anything like that using gyle- 
something that does the math incorporating the OG of the wort along 
with the typical range of CO2 volumes for particular styles.

Thanks,
JonO
Minneapolis

PS I pulled this message to edit something and I noticed in the message 
queue a response from John Palmer to Kurt Thorn's mashing questions. 
How cool is that? Ask a question, and dozens of homebrewing experts, 
including at least one whose taught thousands of people how to brew, 
are ready to answer in an instant. Yay hbd! brew on!  I don't know from 
books, Kurt (though John Palmer's instructions were very great for me), 
but when they say don't aerate that hot wort, listen! Hot side aeration 
ruined my beer! Oh yeah, and don't panic about all that water treatment 
stuff. Yet.



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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 08:23:28 -0800
From: "Chad Stevens" <zuvaruvi at cox.net>
Subject: re: Books on mashing?

"How to Brew" by John Palmer, "Everything you need to know to brew beer 
right the first time."

Trust me, it does cover everything you need know in a simplistic format that 
even I was able to follow.

Good luck,

Chad Stevens
QUAFF
San Diego

America's Finest City Homebrew Competition, win a chance to have your beer 
brewed commercially:

http://www.quaff.org/AFC2005/AFCHBC.html 



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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 09:54:47 -0700
From: "Jason Gross" <jrgross at hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: A secondary tale

Hey All,

Short-time lurker, first-time poster.  Recently found the list.  Don't know
how I got along without it.  Great community!  List seems a little slow,
so FWIW I'll add my $.02.  (Everyone must be recovering from those
Christmas Ales).

John Peed writes:
"So now I really question the need
for racking to secondary.  It certainly makes sense for lagers, which have
true primary and secondary fermentation cycles, but I don't think it makes
sense for ales.  Comments?"

I wouldn't be a good scientist if I didn't say, "It depends".  Because of
equipment limitations, my brewing method allows for some trub to enter
the primary fermentor.  Some say this is a good thing.  Regarding ales,
I generally try to rack into a secondary after one week.  A neglected
stout was left in the primary for about 3 weeks, and subsequently had
some astringency, which I attribute to the trub (or something?) in the
primary.  OTOH, after some cold conditioning, the astringency was not
noticeable and this turned out to be one of my favorite beers (SWMBO
and friends concurred).

Now, that should make this topic about as clear as mud.

Cheers,
Jason Gross
Mandan, ND




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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2004 10:03:27 +1030
From: "Greg 'groggy' Lehey" <grog at lemis.com>
Subject: Re: Wyeast 1318 - London III

On Friday, 24 December 2004 at  9:21:07 -0500, Fred Johnson wrote:
> Darrell asks about others' experiences with London III (Wyeast 1318).

Hmm, somehow I missed this.

> I have brewed the following with this yeast:
>
> ...
>
> I quit using this yeast because of the clearing and attenuation
> problems I was having, but this may have been due to something I was
> doing wrong.

Interesting.  I've made a number of brews with this yeast recently,
and I rather like it.  Yes, the attenuation is a little lower than
with many yeasts, but I've always had at least 70% attenuation.  

I haven't noticed any particular problems with clearing, though
recently I have been experimenting with only single racking (directly
before bottling, from the fermenter).  I've decided against that
approach: I end up with too much (well settled) yeast in the bottles,
and that makes pouring difficult.  Now if you want to see poor
clearing, try 1007.  I've given up on that yeast, partially because of
clearing, but more importantly because I don't think it produces as
good a beer as the 1318.

> One other note (not necessarily pertinent to my problem) is that the
> last two beers in the list were made from starters prepared from
> second "passage" of this yeast.

It's certainly worth mentioning. 

> That is, after a starter was prepared from the original smack pack,
> a portion of the starter was stored in the fridge.  This is the
> first "passage" of the yeast. Subsequent "passages" of this yeast
> are those starters prepared from such stored vials, so the last two
> beers were prepared from the second "passage" of the yeast, i.e.,
> from the third "generation" starter.

I've been doing this too, and also yeast slurries from previous
batches.  I haven't had your experience in either case.

Greg
- --
Finger grog at lemis.com for PGP public key.
See complete headers for address and phone numbers.


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