HOMEBREW Digest #4716 Sun 06 February 2005

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  re-pitching question ("Steve Smith")
  Rapadura Sugar ("Steve Smith")
  Re: Hefe and temps ("Greg 'groggy' Lehey")
  BJCP President's Letter? (Lee)
  RE: Hefe Temps ("Doug Moyer")
  Baltic Porter / Schwarzbier (Alexandre Enkerli)
  Bring the Mash to Mohammad (Bart Thielges)
  RE: Spruce tip tips? ("Jason Henning")
  S-04 at high temperatures ("Antony Hayes")
  Automagical Parti-Gyle Recipe Worksheet ("Chris Tweney")
  Re: Spruce tip tips? (Teresa Knezek)
  Pex (Ralph Link)
  Homebrew Supplies in Okinawa ("Michael Noah")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2005 21:26:19 -0700 From: "Steve Smith" <sasmith at in-tch.com> Subject: re-pitching question I just brewed my biggest beer yet, a barleywine with 1.114 OG, but due to backordered yeast and a disappearing window of opportunity to brew, pitched only a one-quart starter with an inch of slurry at the bottom of the jar. Although after a couple days the airlock is bubbling away vigorously, I realize that I will benefit from pitching more yeast in the secondary. What is the best method to do this? I was thinking that when I rack to the secondary, I will harvest some of the slurry from the bottom of the primary fermenter, and use a little to build another starter to reinoculate the barleywine. Should I pitch the additional starter slurry as soon as the starter is done, or as Szamatulski's usually suggest, wait to add it three days prior to bottling? I assume that the barleywine will continue to ferment in the secondary for a couple months (the little-detailed homemade recipe was passed on to me)... I cannot top-harvest the yeast now and pitch that as soon as the beer goes to the secondary because I am being called away for important business... a three-day steelhead fishing trip! The day before brewing the barleywine, I also began fermenting a 1.070 belgian dubbel with the same type of one-quart starter. Do you think I should re-pitch that one too? Just like on the river, I appreciate any hot tips! Also, out of curiosity, do you think that my mistaken ommission of Irish Moss from the barleywine will detract from its taste and mouthfeel, or will it just be cloudy? Thanks to ye learned brewers and chemists, Steve Smith Missoula, MT Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2005 21:45:04 -0700 From: "Steve Smith" <sasmith at in-tch.com> Subject: Rapadura Sugar I bought myself Randy Mosher's "Radical Brewing" for Christmas. Great book Randy! He discusses the use of adjunct sugars in brewing, especially partially refined sugars, and that people might try some of the types he suggests, or experimenting with other sugars. I recently brewed a belgian dubbel, and in place of belgian candy sugar used turbinado sugar with a touch of rapadura sugar. I'm curious if anyone has any knowledge of rapadura, and if you believe it is desireable for brewing. It is a very dark (unrefined) sugar that is partly powdery, partly granular, that I found in my local organic food store. Cheers, Steve Smith Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2005 15:21:28 +1030 From: "Greg 'groggy' Lehey" <grog at lemis.com> Subject: Re: Hefe and temps On Thursday, 3 February 2005 at 9:01:02 -0500, leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu wrote: > Someone, please refresh my memory: Was it the higher end of the > temperature range on many hefe yeasts that yielded the bananna > flavor, and the lower end that favored the clove? All yeasts are Hefe yeasts. Hefe is the German word for yeast. > I am getting ready to use wlp300, and want to attempt to do several > batches, one high, another low, to see if I can create these > differences. That's a Wei{imagine a prohibited letter for 'ss' here]bier yeast, so I suppose you're thinking abut Hefeweibier. I didn't know that the fermentation temperature would influence the clove flavours. That's more due to the mash (rest at 44[imagine a prohibited word for degree here]C, about 111[imagine a prohibited word for degree here]F), which allows the formation of ferulic acid, which the yeast then converts to 4-Vinyl guaiacol (clove) and 4-Vinyl phenol (vanilla). The banana aroma comes from isopentyl acetate, an ester formed at higher temperatures. On Friday, 4 February 2005 at 15:31:55 -0500, HomeBrewUSA wrote: > Darrell asks about Hefe temps.... > > In my experience with WLP300 I have discovered that it gives BIG bannana if > fermented at a steady 73 degrees F. I have not tried a lower temp yet but > the rules I know are higher = more bannana lower = more clove I'd agree with the former; I'm not aware of the latter. Does anybody else have comments? A web page of interest is Hubert Hanghofer's "Wei{imagine a prohibited letter for 'ss' here]bier Compass" at http://www.netbeer.org/english/index.htm. It's a little old now, and I'm not sure that Hubert would still agree about his comments on the banana flavour there. Now which flavours do you want? There's some anecdotal evidence that high levels of isopentyl acetate encourage hangovers. Also, in a recent message to the Auatralian craftbrewers list, he wrote: > According to my reading and experience it's the barley malt that > generates most of the ferulic acid. So if you want to pronounce > clovey character you should aim for 50:50 Greg - -- Finger grog at lemis.com for PGP public key. See complete headers for address and phone numbers. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2005 07:03:10 -0800 (PST) From: Lee <uvajmu1967 at yahoo.com> Subject: BJCP President's Letter? Did any one read the president's letter and financials that have been posted on the BJCP web site? Does anyone care that aparently $65K of the BJCP treasury has been embezzelled? Does anyoen care that the past president has been kicked out of the BJCP? Does anyone care that there is a criminal investigation underway (I would think so!)? So what happened hear? Lee Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2005 10:19:52 -0500 From: "Doug Moyer" <shyzaboy at yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Hefe Temps I was a steward at the Spirit of Belgium competition last month. One of the judges at my table was Chris White (White Labs). I asked him about the effects of temperature on esters/phenols (bananas/cloves). He said that he believed that while higher temps increase the esters, lower temps DO NOT increase phenols. Instead, they reduce the esters enough to allow the phenols to be more readily evident. He said that phenols actually increase with temp, but at a much lower rate than do the esters. Brew on! Doug Moyer Troutville, VA Star City Brewers Guild: http://www.starcitybrewers.org Shzabrau Homebrewery: http://users.adelphia.net/~shyzaboy/homebrewery.html Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2005 10:57:36 -0500 From: Alexandre Enkerli <aenkerli at indiana.edu> Subject: Baltic Porter / Schwarzbier Guten tag! In response to my query on pressure-cooker pseudo-decoction, Randy Mosher offers interesting tidbits on Schwarzbier. As it turns out, Randy's own /Radical Brewing/ (which I'm reading right now) contains some more information on the connection between Schwarzbier and Porter with a recipe for a ruby-brown Schwarzbier on page 113. We're planning this beer as a team (cheesily called "Team Bruheat"): John "MadMan" Misrahi and AleX Enkerli. Randy's comments connect quite directly to our brewing plans. This beer isn't supposed to be "to-style" as neither of us is a "style-freak" (PC version of another term, related to the Seinfeld show, which would be utterly inappropriate here). Both John and I are maltheads. The idea for this brew relates in part to an amazing Schwarzbier made by Jon Westphal of Hampton, New Brunswick. That beer was, in fact, very similar to some examples of Baltic Porter. (At least, to the one usually brewed at the Czech/German l'Amere a boire brewpub in Montreal and the Baltika Dark.) Another inspiration is a "Smoked Belgian Porter" JohnM brewed with fellow MontreAler Marc Letourneau. Not to mention a batch of lagered Scotch Ale JohnM brewed recently. As far as I can see, the main thing making ours more of a Baltic Porter than a Schwarzbier (even the ruby-brown one) is the higher OG and lower roastiness. But it seems like the connection between a Schwarzbier and (Baltic) Porter is similar to that of Stout and Porter (which overlap quite a bit). So far, our grain bill appears to be a kitchen-sink version of Randy's /Radical Brewing/ recipe as we plan to put: a mix of Pale Malts (Gambrinus, Dingemans...), some Munich, Carafa Spezial I (dehusked), and Crystal Malt 70-80, along with a bit each of Home-Toasted Malt, Brown Malt, Chocolate Malt, and Flaked Wheat. Step-mashed in a Bruheat+grainbag, converting at somewhat high temperature, couple of weird methods (including the pressure-cooking), lowish hop bittering, no late hop addition, possibly some vanilla, maybe oak in secondary... This'll be pitched with S-23 slurry and lagered for a while. Should be fun! AleX in South Bend, IN [129.7mi, 251.5] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2005 15:48:33 -0800 From: Bart Thielges <bart at landport.net> Subject: Bring the Mash to Mohammad Howdy all : I've dropped out of the HBD digest view since about 1996 but now back almost a decade later. And I have a question for the oracle : I've recently started trying a stepped temperature mash using the steam injection technique as described here : http://brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue2.4/jones.html I constructed my system almost exactly as described in that article. The steam injection works great for transferring heat directly into my mash, but I am having a problem that I did not experience with my former single temperature infusion mash. I get lots of hot and cold spots and even though I stir constantly with a large SS metal spoon. I can't seem to get even heat distribution. The hot spots are naturally in the center of the mash tun directly over the steam injector. The cold spots are in the corners. So I had the idea that rather stirring the mash over the steam, why not move the steam around the mash ? I'm thinking of building a new steam injector of fairly stiff 3/4" copper pipe in an "L" configuration, the lower and shorter part of the L being drilled with holes to release the steam. The lower hole riddled part of the L pipe would be 10" long which is the smallest dimension of my mash tun : a converted picnic cooler. I would be able to jam that device right into the cold corners if needed to heat them up. With such a device I could move it around to just about anywhere in the mash to "hit" the cool spots. I'd need to find a length of flexible hose (preferably insulated) that can handle steam temperatures and pressures : if anyone has any suggestions on where to look for such a high-temp food grade hose, lemme know. That flexible length of hose would connect the L to the the steam generator. Does this sound like a reasonable idea ? Or am I missing an obvious easier solution ? Maybe a special mash rake to evenly "turn" the mash would be a better idea. Thanks, Bart Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2005 22:23:51 -0500 From: "Jason Henning" <jason at thehennings.com> Subject: RE: Spruce tip tips? I sent a copy of Teresa Knezek's spruce question to Mike O'Brien and this is his response. Mike's spruce beer is the only example I've found to be drinkable and not just carbonated turpentine. - -------------------- Response to Spruce tip tips. I do a historical brewing demonstration where the mash tun is a half of a whiskey barrel with a hole in the bottom for a drain. The 'screen' is either straw or spruce tips. When I use the straw it does not add much flavor to the beer. But the spruce in wonderful! For those looking for an inexpensive mash screen check out these options - they have been used for centuries! The key here is the spruce is never heated above mash temperatures.This draws out only the most beautiful delicate spruce character and leaves the turpentine behind . I use a 'brown paper grocery bag full' as my unit of measure. (that is about 7#) Yes - pound of spruce tips for a 10 gallon batch. Using the spruce in the mash - I really don't think that you can use to much spruce nor do you have to use exclusively tips. Boughs would stay on the bottom of the mash tun better. This past year we used some of the rocks from our fire ring to help hold down the filter bed. This added a very nice delicate smokey character to our historical brews. Mike O'Brien Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2005 19:32:41 +0200 From: "Antony Hayes" <anthayes at telkomsa.net> Subject: S-04 at high temperatures I am fermenting an English style IPA using DCL's S04. Unfortunately the fan on the fridge for my fermenter packed in just before pitching, and I only managed to fix it 16 hours later. So the beer fermented at about 29C (84F) for about 16 hours. It is now fermenting at 24C (75F) Would anyone care to guess what impact this will have on the flavour profile? Ant Hayes Johannesburg Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2005 10:41:50 -0800 From: "Chris Tweney" <ctweney at sonic.net> Subject: Automagical Parti-Gyle Recipe Worksheet Fellow brewers-- Out of frustration with ProMash's limitations for the parti-gyle brewer, I formulated a comprehensive spreadsheet that figures out (nearly) everything you need to know. It even works out hop calculations for the second beer, which I boil on top of the first beer's partially-spent hops. You can get the spreadsheet here: http://www.sonic.net/~ctweney/parti_gyle.htm If anyone finds it useful, I'd love to hear about it! -chris. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2005 11:24:10 -0900 From: Teresa Knezek <mivox.mail at gmail.com> Subject: Re: Spruce tip tips? Well wow. Thanks to everyone who wrote back about the spruce tips... the majority opinion seems to be to use them like hops... either added at the beginning, 30 minute or 15 minute mark during the boil, which is what I will try this time. Another suggestion was to use a large quantity of spruce during the mash, which I suppose I'll try if this batch doesn't suit my fancy... and one helpful soul warned against using 70-odd spruce tips for dry-hopping, unless I enjoy drinking pine-sol. I also picked up a pound of rauch malt at the shop yesterday, figuring I could toss that in as well, and with the smoke and spruce flavors have something like a camping trip in a bottle when it's done (hopefully without the undertones of unbathed campers). We'll see how that works. I've yet to brew something undrinkable, so hopefully the trend will continue. ;-) - -- Teresa 'mivox' Knezek [2855.5, 325deg] AR Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2005 18:54:52 -0600 From: Ralph Link <ralphl at shaw.ca> Subject: Pex Does anyone have any experience or advice regarding using PEX pipe in a RIMS system Thanks Ralph Link - -- Ralph Link <ralphl at shaw.ca> Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2005 01:59:33 +0000 From: "Michael Noah" <physaliaos at hotmail.com> Subject: Homebrew Supplies in Okinawa I'm new at homebrewing and I've just been lurking on this listbot for a while. I'm with the U.S. Army over in Okinawa, Japan at the moment, so I've had to rely on the internet for my supplies and guidance. I have my first 5-gallons of extra pale ale fermenting in a bucket right now, and I'm getting pretty eager to start taste-testing [SMILE] My question to the group - Does anyone know of a homebrew supplier here on Okinawa? With all of the folks that eventually rotate out of here and head back stateside, I'm betting that someone has left here recently, but managed to find a supplier to satisfy their needs during their tour of duty. As a note: I've heard that Japan discourages homebrewing, and that's not hard to believe - I've lived in Japan for the better part of the past 11 years (like for about 10 of them), and the country doesn't encourage anything that would serve to take money out of the "Japan, Inc.'s" pocket. I could see where the hobby could be perceived as decreasing revenues (even if imperceptivity) from the corporate breweries of Kirin, Sapporo and Asahi, and even the local Okinawa's Orion. Just wondering... On-On!! Michael "a.k.a., Namako" Return to table of contents
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