FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org *************************************************************** THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY: This Space For Rent Visit http:// to show your appreciation! Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site! ********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html ********* Contents: re: Sight glass material (sosman) Re: taking into account the rice hulls ("Alan & Ondina Colton") RE: taking into account the rice hulls? (Steven Parfitt) Re: Results -- Wyeast 3522 at High Temps ("Greg 'groggy' Lehey") Re: die phenols die! ("David Houseman") Re: Sight glass material (Fred Johnson) Rice Hulls ("A.J deLange") Re: Sight Glass tube (Kent Fletcher) Simm and wallpaper steamer sanitary issues ("knightcaptain Jack") Re: die phenols die! ("Doug Hurst") Patio brewery ("Dave Hopf") link of the week - barley cultivars (Bob Devine) die phenols die! (Signalbox Brewery) 2005 BUZZ Off Results! ("Christopher Clair") RE: die phenols die! ("Al Quickel")
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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 14:04:55 +1000 From: sosman <sourceforge at metrak.com> Subject: re: Sight glass material > Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 09:40:24 -0400 > From: "Doug Moyer" <shyzaboy at yahoo.com> > Subject: Sight glass material > > Can anyone recommend a source for purchasing a couple of sight glass tubes? > I'd prefer something a bit tougher than glass, but transparent. I need a > 5/8" OD to go with the valves that I have. I have used polycarbonate tubing and PFE tubing with great success. Both of these can easily handle boiling temperatures. Connecting them to the kettle is the only challenge. Some pics and a bit of description of the sight glasses I am currently using are at http://brewiki.org/BrewPot - -- http://melbournebrewers.org/ http://brewsta.sourceforge.net/ http://brewiki.org/ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 23:21:10 -0600 From: "Alan & Ondina Colton" <coltonhse at btl.net> Subject: Re: taking into account the rice hulls Darrell - Throw in your rice hulls at mash out then they won't affect your mash programme, after all they are only there to help your filter bed from clogging during sparging and have nothing to do with mashing. Alan Colton, Swamp Water Brewery of Belize. Web: www.coltonhouse.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 22:33:19 -0700 (PDT) From: Steven Parfitt <thegimp98 at yahoo.com> Subject: RE: taking into account the rice hulls? leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu querrys: >Hey; > For those of you who use rice hulls when brewing a >batch that is high in wheat, or other sticky adjuncts, >how do you take into account the rice hulls in >term of quarts per pound of water? ..... SNIP..... I don't . I use about .5Lb in a 10LB mash. That is less than 5%. It is not rocket science, it is beer. Wing it. > Darrell Steven Discover Yahoo! Have fun online with music videos, cool games, IM and more. Check it out! http://discover.yahoo.com/online.html Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 16:46:50 +0800 From: "Greg 'groggy' Lehey" <grog at lemis.com> Subject: Re: Results -- Wyeast 3522 at High Temps On Monday, 16 May 2005 at 9:09:54 -0700, Matt wrote: > > A bottle tasted at 5 days was cidery and ethanol-y. OK, I'll bite. What's an ethanol-y taste? What real beer doesn't taste of ethanol? Greg - -- Finger grog at lemis.com for PGP public key See complete headers for address and phone numbers Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 07:48:02 -0400 From: "David Houseman" <david.houseman at verizon.net> Subject: Re: die phenols die! Jon, Too bad the judges didn't tell you what phenols they sensed, because there are numerous phenols in this family of chemicals. These range from the desirable-in-some-styles, such as clove-like aroma and flavors in Weizens and some Belgian ales, to the not-desirable-in-any-style, such as band-aid-like aroma and flavors. Smokiness is from other phenol compounds and is sometimes acceptable and often not, depending on the style. So your band-aid-like, medicinal characteristic can be from one of two sources. One is an infection. And you're looking into that one already. The other, and IMHO a primary cause, is the use of chlorinated water in making your beer. So that's something else to consider, depending on where you live and get your water. David Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 08:42:41 -0400 From: Fred Johnson <FLJohnson at portbridge.com> Subject: Re: Sight glass material Doug asks for a source for sight glass material. I have purchased polycarbonate tubing to use as sight glass and racking canes from United States Plastic Corp. (Cat. Nos. 43101-43126 for huge selection of sizes), but if I had it to do over again, I would probably find another way to measure volumes in my kegs. In my experience, the polycarbonate has become a little deformed from the boil even though it is rated to 240 F, and there is the need to cut holes in the keg to accommodate the sight glass fittings. The dip stick method hasn't been acceptable (in my opinion) for measuring volumes because one must look down into the keg to see the mark on a dip stick. Perhaps the calibrated float method is the best, but I have no experience with this. Fred L Johnson Apex, North Carolina, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 12:44:29 +0000 From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net> Subject: Rice Hulls For Darrell: Rice hulls do their job in the lauter tun. That's where they go into the mash when I use them. There is no point in putting them in earlier as they add nothing to the beer but may, OTOH, get damaged in the parts of the process prior to lautering (stirring, mixing, pumping). As they go in after all consideration of quarts per pound are past it is not necessary to consider them in calculating strike water. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 08:06:21 -0700 (PDT) From: Kent Fletcher <fletcherhomebrew at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Sight Glass tube Doug Moyer asked > Can anyone recommend a source for purchasing a > couple of sight glass tubes? > I'd prefer something a bit tougher than glass, but > transparent. I need a > 5/8" OD to go with the valves that I have. I used polycarbonate tubing from McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com), it's FDA compliant and very durable. #8585K53 is 5/8" OD, 3/8" ID, available by the foot at $1.88/ft. Kent Fletcher Brewing in So Cal Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 17:51:25 +0000 From: "knightcaptain Jack" <knightofheineken at hotmail.com> Subject: Simm and wallpaper steamer sanitary issues Hello everybody, After years of reading articles from HBD, I have decided to take the plunge and start posting something. I hope my question is worthy of this forum... This post is in reference with the Steam Injected Mash Mixer (SIMM) setup Gary Spykman has posted on the web at the following link: www.gjwspykman.com/simm/simm.html . I bought myself a used Wallpaper Steamer (as a matter of fact, I bought the same model as shown in Gary Spykman website, Colonial Wallpaper Steamer) and now have sanitary issues with it. I opened it yesterday to see how clean it was in the inside; there seem to be white deposit in the bottom of the stainless steel heating/pressure chamber; there is rust as well as what looks like to be mold on the (galvanized steel, I presume) outer parts of the steamer. Now, should I have concerns that particles of white deposit, rust, mold or any kind of bugs be transferred into the mash via the steam when working with such a device? I also have concerns with the vinyl hose used to transfer the steam to part a rubber taste to the mash. What are your thoughs? Also, how do I clean the stainless steel tub and the outer parts of the rust, white cake (must be hard water deposits) and mold? I have precision tools that could grind the rust from the outer parts, but the bigger hole I can use to clean the inside of the tub is the one for the heating element. Is there chemical products I could use to clean enough and make sure the steam injected in the mash is sanitary? Jacques Gatineau, Canada Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 16:50:54 -0500 From: "Doug Hurst" <dougbeer2000 at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: die phenols die! JonO laments that his score sheets declared his beer to be phenolic. Jon, you state that you are considering rolling out the Iodophor to sanitize. This begs the question of what you're using now. If it's perhaps bleach, then that could be the cause of your phenols. Bleach residue on equipment will break down and cause a very medicinal phenolic aroma in your beer. Iodophor can be used as no rinse sanitizer and won't cause the phenolic character. Doug Hurst Chicago, IL [197.5, 264.8] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 18:46:38 -0700 From: "Dave Hopf" <hopfbrau at quetzalloca.com> Subject: Patio brewery It's been awhile since I've had much interest in brewing. Following a career change, we moved from our rural home to the Big City last year. Actually, we don't really live in the Big City, we live in a little city just on the edge. Knowing that our plans involved living in an apartment for a few years, I had sold my entire set of brewing equipment a nice couple. Lets just say that they needed a large van to haul it all away and they were very happy with their $300 purchase. This has actually turned into a serendipitous event. After becoming established in our new environment, I was able purchase new equipment sized for apartment living. No more 1-sack 30 gallon batches anymore, but that's fine with me. I knew exactly what I wanted and had great fun ordering off the internet. More on that later. Best of all, our apartment is on the ground floor with a concrete patio. And in that patio is a utility closet with a large gas hot water heater. Since the apartment has hot water heating, this heater uses a tempering valve to lower the temperature of the hot 171 degree F (77.3 degree C) water going to the kitchen and bathrooms. And yes, there is a hose faucet for me to tap into this nice hot water, and another one on the cold water side! My first batch was made on a rainy Sunday afternoon. The water from the hot water heater was directly added to the grain and was nearly perfect for reaching my target temperature. I don't know what the neighbors thought when the surrounding area began to smell of a brewery. I honestly felt sorry for the neighbor above as great wafts of pungent steam drifted up from my patio into theirs. But no one complained - I really don't think that it is any worse than smelling someone else's barbeque. The beer, an IPA, turned out fine. I was a little rusty and did not quite hit my target volume. It may have tasted even better with less hops, but it was sooo nice to have a home made brew after over a year. That "Natural Ice" beer that the missus buys me has only one good quality. That is, if you have nothing but Natural Ice in a can for a couple of weeks, you can splurge and buy a craft beer and it will taste pretty good and it won't bother you too much that you paid almost $2 a bottle for the privilege. Now back to the HBD. Doug Moyer is looking for sight glass material. Try borosilicate glass tubing. Like Pyrex, it is tough stuff. Lab supply shops like cynmar.com carry it in 3-12 mm diameters. I've bought a few things from Cynmar and the prices are decent. Darrell asks about water ratio corrections when using rice hulls. Hmmm. If the mash was too thick, I would have added more hot water without giving it a second thought and damn the consequences. Difference in philosophy I guess. David Houseman asks about his septic tank 'peticle'. Normally the dumping of bad beer down the toilet is, if anything, beneficial for the septic tank. However, it gives me pause that you are concerned that your lambic is the cause of this hard crusty layer. Perhaps your lambic was far worse than I realize. I think it would be safe to say that if you did not observe peticle in your lambic before dumping it, you can look elsewhere for the cause, like, how do you dispose of bacon grease? -= Dave Issaquah, WA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 23:37:42 -0600 From: Bob Devine <bob.devine at worldnet.att.net> Subject: link of the week - barley cultivars If you are a long-time homebrewer, you probably heard someone say that they are using "klages" barley. I even heard of someone who named his dog with that name! Unfortunately, while Klages was very common in the 1980s and 1990s, that variety is not really grown much any more. Most of the North American 2-row barley is now the "harrington" variety. New varieties are constantly arriving. For example, have you heard of "legacy", "sissi", or "conrad"? If not, you might want to see current crop information and some of the modern cultivars. A good intro: http://byo.com/mrwizard/872.html http://www.cmbtc.com/PDFs/Var_list.pdf http://www.ambainc.org/about/AMBA_Overview.pdf http://ag.montana.edu/wtarc/Web2004/Agronomy/Bar/ Barley%20Variety%20Notes.pdf http://www.ag.uidaho.edu/scseidaho/variety%20descriptions/ barley/2%20row%20malt%20barley.pdf Bob Devine Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 09:21:24 +0100 From: Signalbox Brewery <signalbox.brewery at ntlworld.com> Subject: die phenols die! John Olsen says: >Okay so I got my first round AHA critique sheets back only to see >"phenolic" on both of them, ruining my shot at a decent score. Phenols >don't belong in a porter, Errr, how would one make a beer whose original recipe was for a 100% smoked brown malt grist without phenols? Granted if they only appeared in the later bottles they didn't come from the grist. Wild yeast would be one explanation. Was it just this batch? It's surprising that this has been detected in a porter when it would have been more apparent in other beer styles. Did you brew anything before or since with the same yeast? Have subsequent products of your brewery been free of phenols? David Edge Signalbox Brewery Derby UK, home of Pale Ales since 1680 Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 09:51:28 -0400 From: "Christopher Clair" <buzzclub at verizon.net> Subject: 2005 BUZZ Off Results! It is with pleasure that I can announce the results of the 12th Annual BUZZ Off homebrew competition! We had 254 entries from around the country competing in 23 judging categories. Congratulations to Brian Moore for his Best of Show winning Irish Red Ale! For complete results, please visit our website http://hbd.org/buzz. Winners, please note that there might be a delay in us send out prizes. Rest assured they will go out within the next 2 weeks. Score sheets should go out this week. Finally, just a quick thank you to Chris LaPierre and the entire staff at Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant for hosting us (both the BUZZ Off and our monthly meetings) and sponsoring the Best of Show prize. Their generosity towards home brewers is unmatched and greatly appreciated. Christopher Clair buzzclub at verizon.net http://hbd.org/buzz "The mouth of a perfectly happy man is filled with beer." - Ancient Egyptian Wisdom, 2200 B.C. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 14:20:49 -0400 From: "Al Quickel" <alquickel at hotmail.com> Subject: RE: die phenols die! JonO Do you ever use chlorine bleach in your process? I ask because I experienced the same comments several years ago, and through much trial, error, and discussion, a few fellow brewers suggested that saniziting with bleach (bleach kills everything, right?) was possibly the source of my phenols, I now use iodophor and boiling as my only sanitizing methods & haven't had phenol problems in a long time. Your band-aidy comment is the same one that I had for some beers that were technically clean (not infected) but still exhibited a phenolic character. Al Q Brewing at the center of my universe [954.5, 172.6] A.R. Return to table of contents
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