HOMEBREW Digest #4844 Sun 11 September 2005

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  Mt. Hood identification... ("Michael Eyre")
  Dangers of boiling wort starter in flask.. ("Steve Laycock")
  Re: XL Smack packs are not big enough for mead (Scott Alfter)
  RE: Erlenmeyer Flasks - FAQ help please! (John Schnupp)
  re: hose problems + trashed 12VDC pumps + foam stoppers ("C.D. Pritchard")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2005 07:19:58 -0700 From: "Michael Eyre" <meyre at sbcglobal.net> Subject: Mt. Hood identification... Hey all.. Any home hop growers out there? I'm looking for someone with a Mt. Hood plant. I was given a potted and growing rhizome a few weeks back which is growing in the back yard now... I was told it's a Mt. Hood, but I'm just not sure. I was hoping someone here had one of these of their own to take some pictures of the leaves and cones, detailed shots, so I could compare them to my plants to get a better idea if these are indeed Mt. Hood or not. Mike Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2005 11:10:49 -0700 From: "Steve Laycock" <slaycock at discoverynet.com> Subject: Dangers of boiling wort starter in flask.. Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 19:29:56 -0700 From: "Rowan Williams" <rowan at canberrabrewers.org> Subject: Erlenmeyer Flasks - FAQ help please! I almost replied to this post a few days ago... My adventures with an Erlenmeyer flask on the stove top was a disaster. I picked up a beautiful 3L flask off e-bay, this flask had a heavy flange on the opening and was my pride and joy for about a week. When I did my FIRST starter in this flask it was on a electric element stove top (normal old style coil stove top element). I had a boil over & it was fffast in rocking out of the top and flowing down the sides of the flask. When the wort hit the stove element, it got between the flask bottom and stove top. This heavy 3L flask (with wort in it) started dancing on the burner surface (violently dancing) and just as quick tipped itself over, hit the kitchen floor & aww shi--. It was a bad thing, lots of sticky liquid mixed in with glass shards. All I had time to do was run from the stove, I had no tongs or insulated gloves, wort was flowing out the opening and the flask was jumping around, It was one of those moments that you instantly knew there was no recovery, just get out of the way and dont get burned! So the moral of the story.... be careful if your using coil elements or the "hob" style elements would probably do the same thing. I'd doubt this could happen on a gas burner however. I dont boil in erlenmeyer flasks anymore, probably ought to try it again. I'm back to boiling in a kettle, chilling it in ice bath and then transferring into flask. Steve in KC Highwater Brew Haus Pleasant Hill Mo Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2005 21:57:05 -0700 From: Scott Alfter <scott at alfter.us> Subject: Re: XL Smack packs are not big enough for mead Ted Manahan wrote: > With the recent talk of the XL Smack Packs from Wyeast being pitchable, I > was getting set up to try it. I just made a mead, and used the Wyeast sweet > mead yeast. The package itself indicates that it is ready to pitch. So I > did. If their product is anything like the pitchable tubes sold by White Labs, they should be considered directly pitchable only for normal-gravity (<1.070) product. For a high-gravity beer, mead, or whatever, a starter is recommended to get more yeast to pitch. This is on the label on each tube; I don't know if Wyeast makes a similar recommendation on its packaging. I use White Labs yeast most of the time, and even for normal-gravity beer, I'll make a starter. It gets the fermentation off to a more rapid start. For a wee heavy I made recently (OG 1.090), I put the starter through two steps--I pitched the tube into a quart of starter solution (basically, sugar water with yeast nutrients added), then I pitched that into another quart of starter solution after two days. _/_ Scott Alfter / v \ Visit the SNAFU website today! (IIGS( http://snafu.alfter.us/ Top-posting! \_^_/ rm -rf /bin/laden >What's the most annoying thing on Usenet? Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2005 23:51:22 -0700 (PDT) From: John Schnupp <johnschnupp at yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Erlenmeyer Flasks - FAQ help please! Bill Adams <badams1010 at yahoo.com> gives us the link >Here is what one company claims their containers will withstand: >http://www.indigo.com/glass/gphglass/beaker-solder.html Just keep in mind that is a 100ml beaker. A lot of the strength of glass has to do with shape and surface area. A small piece of glass is tougher than a large piece. I wonder how that beaker would have stood up if it was, say, 1000ml? Not saying that it would have broke but the chances certainly would have been better for breaking. John Schnupp, N3CNL (once in a) Blue Moon Hombrewery [560.2, 68.6] Rennerian Georgia, VT 95 XLH 1200 Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2005 14:00:49 From: "C.D. Pritchard" <cdp at chattanooga.net> Subject: re: hose problems + trashed 12VDC pumps + foam stoppers Matt had two batches ruined by infection from a vinyl bottling hose and asked: >1. Is it safe/advisable to boil regular vinyl tubing to sanitize it? >Will it leach unsafe or untasty chemicals into my beer? It's not recommended since it is not rated for temperature than high. >2. Does anyone know a convenient/sanitary way to make 3/8" ID >thermoplastic tubing seal tightly on a 3/8" acrylic racking cane? Best bet is to switch to 5/16" ID tubing. Expand the end to greatly ease slipping it over 3/8" OD stuff by submerging the end of the tubing and a short piece of 3/8" copper or other metal tubing or rod in hot water- maybe 150F or so, mate the two (a bit a keg lube really helps) with about 5/8" of overlap, resubmerge, removing from water, allow to cool slowly then remove the metal tubing or rod which'll leave the end of the vinyl tubing expanded to just the right size. on the joining surfaces really helps with this process. >3. Can anyone convincingly state a regimen for keeping standard vinyl >hoses clean for more than a few batches? I seldom bottle but have been using the same piece of 5/16" OD tubing for most of my racking for at least 3 years. Immediately after using it, I connect it to the hot water tap (~140 degF) and flush a a good clip for ~30 seconds then hang it up so to drain/drip-dry. Before using, I flush it again, use it to rack idophor solution from its storage carboy to whatever container I'm sanitizing and then rack the solution back to its storage carboy. I never let the tubing drip-dry at this point- I just let the Idophor drain out briefly. The tubing is pretty dark from idophor. - - - Someone posted awhile back about a trashed 12 VDC rec. vehicle type pump via rusting of the pump's motor. The pump (a ShurFlo) on my HLT rusted-up after many moons of use. With use, the shaft seal will leak and allow water into the sealed motor housing. Drilling a drain hole through the bottom of the plastic motor housing pretty much solves this problem. - - - John Peed posted that the Williams Brewing foam stoppers work well at keeping nasties out of starters. I heartily second that. The worst-case application I use them for is making starters in FoodSaver bags. The bags allow much more air into them than a flask or other rigid container. I've never detected a contaminated starter and a taste/smell test of an unpitched starter after letting it sit 3 days indicates these things really work. c.d. pritchard cdp at chattanooga.net http://chattanooga.net/~cdp/ Return to table of contents
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