HOMEBREW Digest #4856 Wed 28 September 2005

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


          Northern  Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
Visit http://www.northernbrewer.com  to show your appreciation!
               Or call them at 1-800-681-2739

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

  10th Annual Music City Brew-Off, Nashville, TN Oct. 22 ("Stephen Johnson")
  Upward infusion mashing technique??? (Bill Velek)
  Re: Conical fermenter ("Steven Dragon")
  Re: Efficiency, again... (Bill Adams)
  Corn, Corn Corn ("Unix Bob")
  Throw out your hydrometer. Was: Efficiency, again... ("Mike Racette")
  Re: Efficiency, again... (Denny Conn)
  The efficiency answers you've all been waiting for... ("Michael Eyre")

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * The HBD Logo Store is now open! * * http://www.hbd.org/store.html * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Suppport this service: http://hbd.org/donate.shtml * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. LOOKING TO BUY OR SELL USED EQUIPMENT? Please do not post about it here. Go instead to http://homebrewfleamarket.com and post a free ad there. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req@hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning, and Spencer Thomas
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 23:03:55 -0500 From: "Stephen Johnson" <sjohnson3 at comcast.net> Subject: 10th Annual Music City Brew-Off, Nashville, TN Oct. 22 The Music City Brewers, Nashville, Tennessee's Homebrewing Club are proud to announce their 10th Annual Music City Brew-Off scheduled for the weekend of October 21-23. The MCB club website has a host of details at http://www.musiccitybrewers.com/05Brewoff.htm Some specifics: - AHA sanctioned accepting all 2004 BJCP styles of beer, mead and cider - Special event on Friday evening Oct. 21, judging at Boscos Nashville Brewery on Saturday, Oct. 22, followed by awards ceremony in afternoon and evening pub crawl, and Sunday, Oct. 23 Brew N' Brunch at location TBA. - Two (2) unmarked brown or green 10-14 ounce bottles - Entry Fees: Fees are $6 for each of the first two entries, $5 for each additional entry. Hop God Challenge entries are $10. Make Checks payable to The Music City Brewers. Checks or money orders only please. - Entry Deadline: Entries will be accepted between September 26th through till October 12th. No late entries will be accepted NO EXCEPTIONS! We are sorry, but we will not be accepting any day of entries for out-of-town judges or stewards. Please send all mail-in entries to: Music City Brewers C/O Boscos Restaurant 1805 21st Avenue South Nashville, TN 37212 Telephone: (615) 385-0050 - Hundreds of dollars worth of prizes, including a Kegerator Kit from Kegkits.com, malt, hops, brewerania, and other assorted stuff - Charity: This year The Music City Brewers have decided to contribute portions of their entry fees as well as portions of the Pre-Awards raffle to victims and survivors of Hurricane Katrina through the 2nd Harvest Food Bank, so that food can be gotten to those who need it most. Straight cash donations will also be accepted - Judging/Lodging: The Music City Brewers have again partnered with the Holiday Inn Select Vanderbilt to provide lodging for those out of town guests. The hotel has offered special rates for our event and we hope that people will take advantage of this opportunity. The Holiday Inn Select Vanderbilt 2613 West End Avenue Nashville, Tennessee 37203 Ph. 615-327-4707 When making reservations ask for the Music City Brewers group rate. The rate for this event will be $85.00 per night. These rates are available for a limited time so please do not hesitate to reserve your rooms as soon as possible. As in previous years the Holiday Inn will be providing a shuttle to the judging session on Saturday. Contact Steve Johnson, MCB President at sjohnson3 at comcast.net if interested in judging or for additional information about the competition. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 02:16:39 -0500 From: Bill Velek <billvelek at alltel.net> Subject: Upward infusion mashing technique??? Came across this webpage which indicates that this microbrewery is using an "upward infusion mashing technique" -- see third sentence on this page: http://www.greatbearbrewing.com/brewery.html I think I can deduce what that means, but I'm intrigued with how and why it is being done. The only reason I can imagine for 'why' is that the rate of recirculation is probably improved. Anyone doing anything like this with their homebrewing RIMS? Cheers. Bill Velek Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 06:57:56 -0400 From: "Steven Dragon" <scdragon at att.net> Subject: Re: Conical fermenter Eric Schoville asks: <<1) Should we go with the 12.2 or 14.7 gallon hopper? Larger? >> This depends on how you plan to maintain fermentation temperatures. I use an upright freezer that is just large enough to fit the 12.2 gallon size. If you've got a larger space, go for the larger fermenter. <<2) Does the 12.2 gallon have enough space to ferment a 10 gallon batch, and does the 14.7 gallon have enough room to ferment a 12 gallon batch?>> I've had no problems fermenting 10 gallons in a 12.2 gallon fermenter. I use Fermcap in the boil. It helps prevent boil over and carries through to keeping the foam down in the fermenter. Never had a batch foam out of the fermenter. <>3) Is it necessary to have 2 ports? In other words is the racking port necessary, or can you just drain all of the yeast off the bottom valve and then rack using the bottom valve?>> I thought that I would get more use from the racking port, but no, I've never used it. I use the bottom drain exclusively. I suppose that I would use the racking port for samples, if I were inclined. The racking arm seems too small for transfer. <<4) Is a 1/2" valve on the bottom sufficient? Does it ever clog with yeast? Would it be better to have a 3/4", and does anyone know if 3/4" would fit on the 12.2 or 14.7 gallon sizes?>> I did have the 1/2" valve clog on me. I unclogged it by pushing CO2 up through the bottom port. Clogging hasn't been a problem since employing the practice of removing built up spent yeast every few days. 5) Do people recommend a welded union on the bottom or some type of Weld-B-Gone fitting? If Weld-B-Gone is recommended, does anyone have recommendations or sources? No information on that. I have an "Fermenator original", which is what I would imagine you would be basing yours on. It works great! No leaks at all. Happy brewing, Steve Dragon Boylston, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 06:40:46 -0700 (PDT) From: Bill Adams <badams1010 at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Efficiency, again... I am wondering where the basis for this statement comes from: If you are (batch sparging), you will have significant efficiency losses. I was continually getting around 75% fly sparging. When I switched to batch sparging it jumped to 85%. No doubt the big guys can squeeze more out fly sparging but I'm not sure it translates so well to us little guys. BA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 14:36:07 +0000 From: "Unix Bob" <neutrinodust at hotmail.com> Subject: Corn, Corn Corn Fellow Brewlings, I have been trying to develop some light bodied / stronger alcohol recipies and I'd like to experiment with corn starch, corn meal and corn syrup as adjuncts. WIth regards to corn starch - does anyone have any estimates on what the effect of adding 1LB of corn starch to the mash might have on the SG of a 5 gallon batch? Also, I would be interested to learn anyones experience using corn starch may have on the final taste / aroma. For better or worse - Same thing for adding corn syrup to the boil. Again, I'm interested in learning effects on the SG and resulting taste / aroma. Any specific brands of corn syrup better than others? With regards to corn meal - I would be interested in any feedback using corn meal. I'm planning on doing a double decoction mash and boiling 2LBs of corn meal with a small amount of grain for 30 minutes to gelatainize before adding to the main mash. Does this end up being a gooey mess? Should I plan on a stuck sparge from the beginning? Again, any feedback is greatly appreciated. --> Bob <-- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 08:42:41 -0600 From: "Mike Racette" <mike.racette at hydro-gardens.com> Subject: Throw out your hydrometer. Was: Efficiency, again... Ricardo Cabeza had this to say during the efficiency again discussion: 5) If you're using a hydrometer, throw it out. Those things are never accurate. The most accurate way to measure original gravity is to us a volumetric flask and an accurate scale. Why do you say hydrometers are never accurate, Chad? And can you elaborate on the flask method. How does temperature affect this method? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 08:40:41 -0800 From: Denny Conn <denny at projectoneaudio.com> Subject: Re: Efficiency, again... At 12:05 AM 9/28/05 -0400, Ricardo Cabeza wrote: >1) You mention 'batch sparging' in your post. Are you batch >sparging? If you are, you will have significant efficiency losses. Compared to what, Chad? I know at least as many people whose efficiency has gone up as down when they switched to batch sparging. My own runs anywhere from 75-85%, depending on grist and mash schedule. >2) How fast are you sparging? Try to slow down your sparging process. When you batch sparge, a slow sparge isn't necessary. I don't mean to rag on ya, Chad, but I see these 2 misconceptions concerning batch sparging quite a bit and I like to try to correct them. ------------------>Denny Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 13:16:54 -0700 From: "Michael Eyre" <meyre at sbcglobal.net> Subject: The efficiency answers you've all been waiting for... Whew! Thanks to the whole lot of you who took the time to reply to my questions regarding the less-than-stellar efficiency me and my brewing partner have been getting from (one of) our brewing setups. To answer those questions that were posed to me after my somewhat lacking original post, I'll add that we are currently using a single temp infusion mash in a rectangular cooler with a slotted copper pipe manifold that we lauter in, in the cooler. We batch sparge, usually in two large batches of 6.5 and 6.5 gallons per batch. This gives us the 13 gallons that we usually look for pre-boil. We normally mash in at either 1.25 or 1.125 quarts per pound of grain, and shoot for a grain temp of ~150-155 degrees, depending on the recipe that we're following. We're usually pretty accurate on our temps for the grain. We test for conversion with tincture of iodine every once in a while, and usually see conversion at about the 20 minute mark for the most part, then we let it sit for another short time, usually beginning the first batch sparge somewhere between the 30 minute and 45 minute mark. We then infuse the grain with the remaining 6.5 gallons of sparge water, stir vigorously and let that site for 10 minutes or so before we drain that off into the boil pot. We grind our own malt, which we buy in bulk and generally use up in two batches within' a month or two. We crush the malt in a single pass usually, (we did two passes once before with no difference that we could detect...) through a Barley Crusher two roller mill that is set at .055 gap. The mill has knurled rollers, so this measurement is taken between the "tips" of the rollers... so that may make a difference, as the gap gets significantly wider in-between the knurled points. From what I gathered from your responses, this may be our problem right here. Our grain, after going through the mill, generally looks to be broken up into quarters (4 pieces, sometimes more....), with good husk material and a bit of powered grain. Most of the time, if you grab a handful of it, you get the husk wrapped around the grain, which is crushed up, but still held in place within the husk, giving the appearance that you did not actually break the grain. If you try to pick up the grain, however, it will fall apart... during the runoff period, we just open the 1/2inch ball valve and let 'er fly, full speed. We do not have any problem with stuck mashes. This further makes me wonder about our crush size. I will say that we do tend to lose a significant amount of wort to hops in the boiler. This last beer was (supposed to be) an IPA, that we found had about 1/2 to 3/4 of a gallon of wort absorbed up in the hops. We squeezed the hops by hand, just to see, and when the hops were all out of the boiler (after draining the good wort into the fermenters of course) there was that above-mentioned wort left behind. We're looking into Hop bags now as a solution to that problem, but we also worry about hops utilization loss to a hop bag not letting the hops 'mingle' as well with the wort. I'd take suggestions on that question as well. As an aside, the recipe we used to get 11 gallons of 1.050 wort from 24.5 lbs of grain was using 15.5lbs of US two row pale, 4.5 lbs of German Munich, 2 lbs of German CaraMunich and 2.5 lbs of German Pilsner. All of which were recently purchased from the store. It's a relatively busy store, and I can't say for sure how long it was there, but I can't imagine it was for too long. Another thing that just popped to mind is that when we brew at his house, we use his tap water, which is city water... which he says he found out has chlorine in it. I have a well at my house and thus have no chlorine. We'll see this Friday if that has any effect on things. Other than that, we have no idea what our brewing water is like, chemically. I've always just listened to the old brewing adage "if it tastes good from the tap, it's good to brew with" and followed that. How far should I look into this? With all that said, we love the beer and it tastes wonderful. A couple of extra pounds of grain isn't going to break the bank, but if we're missing something basic and could reduce the loss of what *should* be perfectly good beer, why not fix it?! Thanks for all the help. If you have any further questions after this post, you're probably well over my head! };-) Mike Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 09/29/05, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster@hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96