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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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Contents:
  Congratulations Curt and thanks! (Bev Blackwood II)
  Fermentation and Greenhouse Gases (Bob Tower)
  It's been awhile, I need Help (Colby Fry)
  Metabolites ("A.J deLange")
  Ale yeast for colder temps ("Steve Dale-Johnson")
  re: plate chillers (TomAGardner)
  Therminator ("Rich Zurek")


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Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2005 22:18:45 -0600
From: Bev Blackwood II <bdb2 at bdb2.com>
Subject: Congratulations Curt and thanks!

Curt has been one of the most impressive homebrewers I have had the  
pleasure to meet.  He is very committed to the hobby, supportive of  
clubs around the country (not just his own) and has always taken a  
"big picture" view of things.  Not only that, he is an exceptionally  
gifted brewer. The MCAB couldn't be in better hands.  Congratulations  
Curt, thanks for taking on this role and our thanks to Kathy as well.

 -BDB2

Bev D. Blackwood II
Brewsletter Editor
The Foam Rangers
http://www.foamrangers.com



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Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 00:11:08 -0800
From: Bob Tower <tower at cybermesa.com>
Subject: Fermentation and Greenhouse Gases

I recently watched a program on TV about greenhouse gases and the  
future of the planet. They repeatedly mentioned CO2 as the main  
culprit. I got to thinking about brewing, which releases CO2. Also, I  
keg my beer and in filling and purging kegs excess CO2 is released.  
How much CO2 is released into the atmosphere by our brewing and  
kegging activities? Does it have much of an impact on the environment  
(specifically CO2 released into the atmosphere)? My gut feeling is  
that it is a negligible amount and not to be concerned. Probably much  
more damage is done to the environment by driving to the brewshop to  
pick up the ingredients than by the actual brewing. But rather than  
assume, I thought there might be some knowledgeable folks here to  
assuage any concerns with hard data and facts.

Bob Tower / Los Angeles, CA


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Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 07:37:46 -0500
From: Colby Fry <colbyfry at cvruniforms.com>
Subject: It's been awhile, I need Help

Hello all,
It has been a couple years since I have posted a question and a couple
of years since I have brewed. It seems that having a child IS alot of
work. I just wanted to post a recipe and see what everyone's thoughts
are regarding the recipe & maybe some critiques. I am going for a
European ale. It is a extract recipe with grain. Let me know what you
think. I added 1 lb of flaked rice for a little added oomph. Will this
affect the flavor? Let me know what you think. Thank you.
Colby Fry

Recipe
tsp gypsum & tbsp irish moss, use spring water
4 oz. American victory
1 lb. Dextrine malt (Cara-Pils)
1 lb. Flaked rice
6 lb. Williams Bewing Light malt extract

2 gallons 160F for 30 Minutes, sparge w/ 1 gallon 160 F water for 30 minutes
4 oz. Saaz (3% AA, 60 min.)
XL 1318 LONDON ALE 3
Primary 4 days, secondary 4 weeks keg 2 weeks





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Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 12:58:43 +0000
From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net>
Subject: Metabolites

When yeast are operated at higher temperatures and especially when they 
are in growth phase they produce a spectrum of metabolites different 
from the ones we associate with yummy lager beer. Make up a starter with 
lager yeast, oxygenate, feed and oxygenate to get lots of cells and 
ferment it at higher temperature to get lots of yeast production. Smell 
and taste the starter and see if that is what you want to your beer to 
taste like. Or force ferment a sample from your next batch of lager at 
room temperature. Again smell and taste. I've done both of these things 
over the years and decided that I definitely don't want these 
metabolites in my beer. White labs argument is that if you pitch warm 
and drop the temperature as soon as fermentation kicks off the yeast 
won't have enough time at high temperature to produce an offensive level 
of these metabolites. What I am seeking is confirmation that this is 
indeed so based on others experiences and Francisco has just supplied 
some. OTOH I seem to be getting away with 10% starter (another path 
White labs suggests) even though that means 10% of the finished beer 
will contain these metabolites.

What I'd really like to do is pitch paste but I can't find a cheap 
centrifuge that will handle gallons (nor would I have any place to put 
it if I did) and at 4 x 50 ml per run it takes all day to centrifuge 
even a modest amount of starter on my little table top unit.


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Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 11:50:50 -0800
From: "Steve Dale-Johnson" <sdalejohnson at hotmail.com>
Subject: Ale yeast for colder temps

Repost due to rejected non-ascii text...

<snip>
Directly after work yesterday, I went home and found all activity to
have stopped on my Pale Ale.  Thanks everyone, for your help.  Any
suggestions on an ale yeast that can do a little better at cooler ale
temps?

Thanks
Vincent
 - --
Montgomery Village, MD
Bonum vinum laetificat cor hominis
<snip>

Vincent, I have had excellent results with Wyeast 2565 (koelsch) yeast.  It
is a very clean ale yeast at the cooler temperatures I have used it at 
(cleaner in
flavour profile than Nottingham if you can believe it) and ferments well
over a wide temperature range.  I have a cream ale going with it at the
moment and it is doing very well and producing a large clean top crop of
yeast at 15 degrees Celsius (59F).  BTW, I've found it clears just fine 
given some time.

>From Wyeast:

2565 Kolsch Yeast.
Probable origin: Cologne, Germany
Beer Styles: Traditional American use - Kolsch, Fruit beers, Light pseudo
lagers
Commercial examples may include: Kess, Paffgen, Muhlen
Unique properties: True top cropping yeast similar to Alt strains. Produces
slightly more fruity/winey characteristics. Fruitiness increases with
temperature increase. Low or no detectable diacetyl production. Also
ferments well at cold 55-60 F range, (13-16 C). Used to produce quick
conditioning pseudo lager beers. Poor flocculating yeast requires filtration
to produce bright beers or additional settling time. Flocculation - low;
apparent attenuation 73-77 percent. (56-70 F, 13-21 C)

Hope this helps.  Anyone locally wants to try some of this, I have a large 
starter
that I'm keeping on for a few more batches.


Steve Dale-Johnson
Brewing at 1918 miles, 298 degrees Rennerian
Delta (Vancouver), BC, Canada.




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Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 17:32:40 -0500
From: TomAGardner at cs.com
Subject: re: plate chillers

RE Aj's post:

"To clean them you have to completely disassemble them and that can be a
bit of a chore. It's not something you have to do after every brew - the 
 
conventional flushing and back flushing should serve for that but 

eventually you have to tear them apart and clean out the crevices and 

corners of the strange stuff that builds up inside them."

In my experience or when I've discussed them with 
professional brewers, you need to backflush them with water and CIP with a 
noncaustic cleaner (i.e. PBW). Caustics can actually make beerstone worse. 
I recirculate hot PBW through the plate chiller and pump for 30 minutes. 
That cleans the chiller, pump and hoses. Occasional acid cleaning first 
will prevent beerstone buildup (www.birkocorp.com/brewing/beerstone.asp). 
Professional brewers do take apart the plate chillers occasionally, but it 
is to check for pitting and holes between the plates. They claim that the 
CIP cleans them just fine. Tom


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Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 20:49:29 -0600
From: "Rich Zurek" <zurekbrau at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Therminator

Hello

Before buying a Therminator I used an immersion chiller before and found
using it slow at cooling the wort. We  used the Therminator last weekend
during Teach a Friend to Homebrew and we where very pleased with the
results.  The water going into the unit had to be slowed down to keep it
from cooling the wort too much.

Like Murray Aldridge I loved how well the Therminator works.

Rich Zurek
Holiday Hills IL USA
North West of Chicago
224.7, 271.4 AR



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