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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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Contents:
  You know it's been a while since you've brewed when... ("Bev D. Blackwood II")
  AFC Entries ("Chad Stevens")
  Aroma Hops and Bitterness (Fred Johnson)
  Wyeast 1318 (Fred Johnson)
  Increasing IBUs in the secondary (Russ.Hobaugh)
  Re: converting a keg ("Mike Sharp")


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Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 21:30:15 -0600
From: "Bev D. Blackwood II" <bdb2 at bdb2.com>
Subject: You know it's been a while since you've brewed when...

You find a baby gecko swimming in your hot liquor tank after you've  
filled it with water.

(True story... though not recent... haven't BREWED that recently...  
<sigh>)

 -BDB2

Bev D. Blackwood II
Brewsletter Editor
The Foam Rangers
http://www.foamrangers.com




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Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 22:19:12 -0800
From: "Chad Stevens" <zuvaruvi at cox.net>
Subject: AFC Entries

For those of you who have entries for America's Finest City Homebrew 
Competition (and there are many of you, Thanks!), this Monday would be a 
good day to ship your entries.  They won't sit in a warehouse over the 
weekend, and they'll have plenty of time to sit at AleSmith and let the 
yeast settle before the competition.

If you haven't entered yet, you still have time, but don't delay too long or 
you'll miss out.  Register online at:

www.quaff.org

To answer a couple of emails...why enter AFC?  AFC is the same group of 
judges who handle First Round Nationals for the Southwest Region (a Master 
and numerous National level judges, and just a good group of folks who give 
good feedback).

Thanks and good luck!

Chad Stevens
QUAFF
San Diego 



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Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2006 05:00:05 -0500
From: Fred Johnson <FLJohnson at portbridge.com>
Subject: Aroma Hops and Bitterness

For those who think that very late ("aroma") hop additions don't 
contribute bitterness, consider that there are a number of commercial 
microbreweries who make beers with a single hop addition right at the 
end of a boil.

It requires some time to transfer the hot wort from the boil kettle 
through the counter-flow chiller and into a fermentor. During that 
time, the alpha acids are isomerizing.

Can someone tell me how long it takes a microbrewery to be transfer the 
brew to a fermentor? And how long is that compared to what can be 
achieved at home? That would sure help me in formulating recipes.

Does everyone who uses an immersion chiller also have very rapid 
transfer to their fermentor? Or does it take a good 15-20 minutes?

These things matter!

Fred L Johnson
Apex, North Carolina, USA



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Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2006 06:57:47 -0500
From: Fred Johnson <FLJohnson at portbridge.com>
Subject: Wyeast 1318

Randy Ricchi says his experience with Wyeast 1318 (London III) is that 
it flocculates early and leaves fermentables behind that are slowly 
consumed and overcarbonate his bottles with time. I've had pretty much 
the same experience as Randy. My limited experience with Wyeast 1318 is 
as follows with the same original yeast, maintaining a culture from the 
original in the fridge:

Original smack pack produced in October 2000. Picked it up as old stock 
from a local homebrew store. Otherwise, I probably wouldn't have even 
gotten around to trying it. (There isn't much talk on this digest about 
it.)


All of these beers were produced from the flocculated yeast obtained 
from a 2L aerobically propogated starter except as noted below.

Original smack pack
	Porter, Oct 2001			63.8%
	
1st passage
	ESB, Dec 2002				76.1%
	Porter, Dec 2002			70.2% (Pitched yeast from secondary 											 
fermentor from ESB, Dec 2002)
	
2nd passage
	APA, Mar 2003				62.5%
	APA, Oct 2003				68.4%
	Sp. Bitter, Dec 2005	64.0%

My notes indicate that in addition to the yeast often stopping early, 
the beers are VERY slow to clear. I suspect that is largely a function 
of the higher gravity that is left behind when the bulk of the yeast 
flocculate. The remaining yeast simply are slow to fall out, being 
buoyed up more by the higher gravity. Not my favorite yeast behavior.

I didn't keep good notes on the carbonation levels achieved in the 
bottles, especially after longer periods of time, probably because my 
beers don't stay around more than about a month or two.

I, too, would love to hear others' experiences with this yeast.

Fred L Johnson
Apex, North Carolina, USA



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Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2006 10:28:35 -0500
From: Russ.Hobaugh at erm.com
Subject: Increasing IBUs in the secondary

I have an American Barlewine I just racked to the secondary, and when I 
tasted it, it needed more bittering hops. According to Pro Mash calcs, I 
should have 84.9 IBUs in this from Centennial, but the bitterness is not 
as aggressive as I was looking for. The beer is still at 1.036 (started at 
1.090), so it still has a lot of sweetness in it. Can I just boil 2 more 
oz of hops in 2 quarts of water for an hour to make a "hop tea"? Should 
some DME be added to help with isomerization, or will the hops do this 
without the presence of sugars in the boil? TIA

Russ Hobaugh

Goob Dog Brewery
Birdsboro PA



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Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2006 09:48:12 -0800
From: "Mike Sharp" <rdcpro at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: converting a keg

Re: converting a keg to a secondary fermenter

"I took a spare gas out fitting and removed the guts"

I take that back...I had second thoughts, and when I looked last night, I
noticed that the poppet was still in that fitting, which makes sense because
otherwise it wouldn't open the keg poppet.   I do have a fitting with no
poppet, but I don't use it for the airlock.  I'm not sure what I was
thinking when I said that...  ;^)

In any case, the hose and figure 8 loop keeps the airlock pointing in the
right direction.

Regards
Mike Sharp



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