HOMEBREW Digest #4972 Tue 14 March 2006

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  Saccharomyces uvarum - it's baaaack ("Peter A. Ensminger")
  Diacetyl with Wyeast 1968 (Calvin Perilloux)
  Muncie IN water ("Brian Pic")
  Oxygen absorbing/scavenging caps ("Steve Dale-Johnson")
  Evan Krause please contact me (Dion Hollenbeck)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 13 Dec 2005 23:57:32 -0500 From: "Peter A. Ensminger" <ensmingr at twcny.rr.com> Subject: Saccharomyces uvarum - it's baaaack Hi Steve- OK, first, it's the French ... I remember a visit to Jardin des Plantes (Paris) and seeing a large statue of (Jean-Baptiste Pierre Antoine de Monet, Chevalier de) Lamarck with the epithet [trans.] "Lamarck, the Founder of the Theory of Evolution". What do the French know? Peter A. Ensminger Syracuse, NY Apparent Rennerian: [394, 79.9] Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 07:10:22 -0800 (PST) From: Calvin Perilloux <calvinperilloux at yahoo.com> Subject: Diacetyl with Wyeast 1968 Pete Limosani in the previous HBD asks about diacetyl production using Wyeast 1968. Pete, I've used that yeast before and have noticed a bit of diacetyl, usually much more detectable during fermentation than after. However, the potential is there for sustained levels in the finished beer, specifically because this yeast is highly flocculant. That gives you a nice, clear beer quickly, but it can also mean that if you do have lots of diacteyl production during fermentation, then much of the yeast is no longer in suspension to reduce it in a short time period. The solution? Whenever using 1968, regular rousing is one of my standards. That not only reduces diacetyl, but it also helps this high flucculator finish out the fermentation completely. As to why Wyeast recommends a rest at 50-70F, maybe that's just to let you know that *if* there is diacetyl in your beer, that's not the time to keg it and chill it down in the fridge. Calvin Perilloux Middletown, Maryland, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 10:24:31 -0500 From: "Brian Pic" <bpicke at gmail.com> Subject: Muncie IN water Hey, HBD is as great as ever. I had stopped reading for a year or two, but have been reading again lately from my new gmail account. I just let it fill up with HBDs. :-) Several people have submitted their water reports recently, so please allow me to follow suit as it is something I have never fully understood but I have been wanting to nail it down. Here is my water report for Muncie, Indiana from the local water utility. Total Hardness 321 ppm Total Alkalinity 246 ppm Calcium 65 ppm Magnesium 23 ppm Sodium 17 ppm Chloride 54.5 ppm Sulfate 35.2 ppm Carbonate and/or Bicarbonate (not available) Iron 0.01 ppm Is this report complete enough? I have been using a lot of RO water, but that is getting old and I would like to use my tap water for as much as possible. Also, I would like to take advantage of any time saving techniques such as lactic acid, calcium cloride, etc... but never know quite how much to start out with. Am I brewing as well as possible when doing that though, or would I be better off to preboil the water? Also, campden tablets seem almost like magic for removing cloramine. Do you have to stir them a lot though? How long do you have to wait for them to neutralize cloramine? Thanks for any comments, - --Brian Pic. (Brewing about 200 miles south of the homebrew center of the universe) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 09:06:30 -0800 From: "Steve Dale-Johnson" <sdalejohnson at hotmail.com> Subject: Oxygen absorbing/scavenging caps Fred, I have a partly used bag of these in front of me. The only marking they have is OXYCAP (R) at the crimp part of the crown. I obtained mine from Paddock Wood ($$$) a couple or three years back for bottling a barleywine that I intended to keep for many years (forgot about the fact that if you drink it all it doesn't age so well) and actually thought they worked fairly well. Apparently they are activated by crimping, and the underside of the cap turns white as O2 is neutralized by them. There is a limit to what they will do, but they seemed to start with a few speckles showing under the cap soon after bottling and had whited right out by the time I opened the last of the barleywine at about 2 1/2 years. I don't know whether they can pick up enough O2 or fast enough to solve your problem (I lost all the hop aroma in my barleywine by the end) but I am convinced that they did help. Hope this helps. Steve Dale-Johnson Brewing at 1918 miles, 298 degrees Rennerian Delta (Vancouver), BC, Canada. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 15:15:26 -0700 From: Dion Hollenbeck <hollen at woodsprite.com> Subject: Evan Krause please contact me Sorry for using the list, but I cannot get a reply from Evan directly. Evan - I have your RIMS stuff and sent you two different Emails to your HotMail account but never got any response. Please contact me if you still want schematics. I have updated ones and even board layouts. dion - -- Dion Hollenbeck Email: hollen at woodsprite.com Home Page: http://www.woodsprite.com Brewing Page: http://hbd.org/hollen Toys: 98 4Runner, 86 4x4 PU Return to table of contents
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