FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org *************************************************************** THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY: Northern Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies Visit http://www.northernbrewer.com to show your appreciation! Or call them at 1-800-681-2739 Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site! ********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html ********* Contents: starters/pitching .... ("steve.alexander") Traveling with HB ("Keith Christian") Would like a clone recipe: Tupper's Hop Pocket Ale (Donald Hellen) Alternatives for Mini-Kegs (Bob Hall) Water Analysis (Bob Hall) "late" adjustment of specific gravity (Aubrey Turner)
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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 23:29:36 -0400 From: "steve.alexander" <-s at adelphia.net> Subject: starters/pitching .... Aleman/Le Man/?Tony? of Blackpool has hit on a method of pitching a nwell aerated starter and not aerating the wort. This is essentially the same idea exploited by Boulton/Quain at Bass Ltd. They take a slurry, add a bit of wort and aerate. Then they pitch the O2-req lipid rich slurry into unaerted wort, at conventional pitching rates and ... ferment. Of course Bass measures the O2 utilization and controls for this. There isn't much magic to it. You need a certain minimum amount of sterol to ferment a given wort, and sterol deficit is a common reason for EOF(end of fermentation) [this assumes we want fermentation to approach completion with yeast in log growth phase]. As brewers we'd prefer this and also that lack of simple sugars would be the cause of EOF. Back to the practical - keeping some extra wort frozen, a sack of extract or even performing a stovetop micromash to obtain some starter wort isn't so onerous if you want a good result. I think the importance of a vigorous starter on final beer is underestimated by many HBers. I personally don't think that the typical dry sachet of yeast is adequate for 20L of ale, the whitelab type vials are closer to the mark for ales. None of these is even close for lager fermentation. So that brings up the other question - should you separate the yeast from starter wort. I personally feel this depends on the starter wort used. If you wouldn't want the wort used in the final beer then separate, but it does add time and stall the yeast metabolism. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 08:26:39 -0700 From: "Keith Christian" <kchristian at surfside.net> Subject: Traveling with HB Hi, I am flying to SF this week and I'd like to take some of my beer with me. Will I have problems bringing it with me in my carry on baggage? I am only staying the night and I will not need to bring a large suit case. I guess I could, if needed. Any recommendations? Thanks, Keith Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 13:48:32 -0400 From: Donald Hellen <donhellen at horizonview.net> Subject: Would like a clone recipe: Tupper's Hop Pocket Ale Does anyone have a clone recipe for Tupper's Hop Pocket Ale? If so, could you please post it here? - -------------------------------- Imagination is more important than knowledge. -Albert Einstein Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 08:15:55 -0400 From: Bob Hall <rallenhall at henry-net.com> Subject: Alternatives for Mini-Kegs I've just tossed out my collection of mini-kegs. Each one was forming rust around the opening and I was beginning to get some metallic tastes (actual or imagined). Of course, I still have two of the Phil-Tap assemblies. Has anyone found or developed a plastic alternative to the metal kegs that can be adapted to the mini-keg hardware? An easier-to-clean, rust free alternative to the metal cans would be great. As I also use cornie kegs and bottles, I don't use the mini-keg option often, but it is handy for tailgates and other gatherings. Cheers, Bob Hall, Napoleon, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 08:23:31 -0400 From: Bob Hall <rallenhall at henry-net.com> Subject: Water Analysis Traffic on the list seems a bit slow, so I'll toss this out. The interest in water analysis awhile back finally spurred me to send a sample in to Ward Labs. Of course, now that I have the results I could use some help with interpretation and suggestions on appropriate treatments. I've never really had any problems (and seldom use any treatments), but the perfect pint can always be improved. Thanks, Bob Hall Napoleon, OH pH - 7.8 Total Dissolved Solids - 186 Electrical Conductivity - 0.31 Cations/Anions - 3.2/2.9 PPM Sodium (Na) - 3 Potassium (K) - 1 Calcium (Ca) - 43 Magnesium, (Mg) - 10 Total Hardness (CaCO3) - 149 Nitrate (NO3-N) - <0.1 Sulfate (SO4-S) - 15 Chloride (Cl) - <1 Carbonate (CO3) - <1 Bicarbonate (HCO3) - 119 Total Alkalinity (CaCO3) - 98 Flouride (F) - 0.20 Iron (Fe) - 0.04 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2006 16:47:45 -0400 (EDT) From: Aubrey Turner <arturner at mindspring.com> Subject: "late" adjustment of specific gravity First time post from a lurker. I've learned a lot just by reading the HBD this past year, so my thanks go to the active HBD members. Now, I would like to ask for suggestions to increase specific gravity after the boil and even after active fermentation. Let me frame this. I typically take hydrometer readings of my sparge runoff, and then again at the end of the boil. But this day I just had too much going on...and perhaps one too many "inspirational" brews! So after I cooled the wort and then pitched yeast, I realized...ooops, no hydrometer readings! So I promptly took a reading, and found a dissapointingly low starting SG=1.026. So I am now in day 2 of active fermentation. This has given me two days to devise a plan to "raise" my gravity via DME, as follows. I plan to wait until active fermentation falls off considerably, perhaps around day 4-5. Then I will tranfer most of my 6 gallons of brew to a secondary, while pulling something like 2 quarts aside. To this 2 quart volume, I will slowly heat, stir in about 2.5 lbs of DME, bring to a boil for 15 minutes, cover the pot, cool, then add back into the main volume. I expect this will add about 0.020 to the overall gravity, thus giving an "apparent" starting SG which will resemble 1.046. I expect this additional DME will be fermented as if added normally, and that the only downside is the risk of contamination due to additional manipulation. Anything I'm overlooking here? Anyone tried similar approaches? Is there a better way to do this? Or should I do nothing at all? Thanks in advance for any advice. -Aubrey Turner Winston-Salem, North Carolina Return to table of contents
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