FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org *************************************************************** THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY: Northern Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies Visit http://www.northernbrewer.com to show your appreciation! Or call them at 1-800-681-2739 Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site! ********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html ********* Contents: Valhalla Mead-only Competition Results ("David Houseman") re: Cereal mash ("Stevens, Jonathan C") Keg priming ("Stevens, Jonathan C")
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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2006 21:46:26 -0400 From: "David Houseman" <david.houseman at verizon.net> Subject: Valhalla Mead-only Competition Results Thanks to all of you who entered your precious meads and made the 2nd annual Valhalla-The Meading of Life a delicious success this year! A total of 66 entries were received from 37 mead makers with entries in each category of mead style. First, second and third place were also awarded in specific mead categories. Dry/semi-sweet traditional 1st place Chad Gould, St. Petersburg. FL Anniversary Mead 2nd place Luke Kostu, Hopelawn, NJ D-47 Mead 3rd place Richard Weiss, New Bern, NC Sweet traditional 1st place Jeffrey Swearengin, Tulsa OK, Sol de Blanc 2nd place Glenn and Dani Exline, Rockledge, FL, TKO 3rd place Curt and Kathy Stock, St. Paul, MN Tupelo Taming Cyser 1st place Mary Rieland, McFarland, WI 2nd place Lyle Brown, Fredericksburg, VA 3rd place Patrick Payne, Melbourne, FL, Super Sizer Pyment 1st place Steve Fletty, Falcon Heights, MN Chateau Fletty 2nd place Michael Fairbrother, Londonderry, NH, Wild NH pyment 3rd place Deborah Lee, Thornton, CO, Zinfully Wild Other Fruit Melamels 1st place Curt and Kathy Stock, St. Paul, MN Plum Crazy 2nd place Ed Walkowski, Dalton, PA Raspberry melamel 3rd place Howard Curran, Oviedo, FL Guavalicious Metheglin 1st place Christopher Clair, West Chester, PA Jenn & Barry's Matrimonial Mint Mead 2nd place Luke Kostu, Hopelawn, NJ Chili Mead 3rd place Ed Walkowski, Dalton, PA Apple Butter Cyser Braggot 1st place Patrick Payne, Melbourne, FL Braggot Rights 2nd place Patrick Payne, Melbourne, FL There's Creek in me Honey 3rd place Glenn and Dani Exline, Rockledge, FL, St. Bernardus Open Category Mead 1st place Patrick Payne, Rockledge, FL Paynes Pomegranate Braggot 2nd place Jeffrey Swearengin, Tulsa, OK Cornucopias 3rd place, Lyle Brown, Fredericksburg, VA, Meloglin And the Best of Show winners are: 1st place BOS goes to Mary Reiland, McFarland WI for her heirloom apple cyser. 2nd place BOS goes to Jeffery Swearengin, Tulsa OK for his Sol de Blanc, a traditional sweet mead 3rd place BOS goes to Steve Fletty, Falcon Heights MN for his Chateu Fletty, a pyment Congratulations! Score sheets will be mailed out on Monday, October 16. Ribbons and awards will be sent to the BOS winners and the 1st, 2nd and 3rd place winners in each category approximately the last week of October. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us! Thanks again for sharing your meads and we look forward to your entries in the Valhalla competition next year! Suzanne McMurphy Competition Organizer Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2006 07:34:00 -0400 From: "Stevens, Jonathan C" <Jonathan.Stevens at dhs.gov> Subject: re: Cereal mash >After we mash the polenta with some base malt at 153F for 20 minutes, and bring it to a boil for 45 to 60 minutes, can we lauter it then and continue as with an extract batch or does the whole cereal mash have to be mashed with more base malt ("main mash") at that point? Have you tried lautering oatmeal or cream of wheat recently? I'm sure Mark Sedam could give a better description, but here's the deal: the point of the cereal mash is to make starch readily available to enzymatic conversion to sugars. Starch is composed of little "packets" of amylose and amylopectin. These packets can be broken open, or burst, through boiling. The efficiency of this process is a function of time, pressure, and shear (physical/mechanical forces in the boil). The longer you boil, the harder you boil, the more you stir...all of these things combine to make the starch in the native grain more available for enzymatic action. The reason 10% of the malt bill is added pre-boil is not for saccharification (converting starch to sugar) rather, it's for glucanase and other -ases (arabinozylase....) which break down the gummy stuff making the boil less sticky (reduced boil viscosity/gel strength) and less likely to scorch on the bottom of the pot. So long story short, just boil the dukie out of your cereal grains and add them to the mash. Be aware that the longer the cereal portion sits after boiling, the cooler it gets. Below about 190, enzymatic resistant starch complexes begin to form, thus working against the boil you just worked so diligently to perform. So make sure your main mash is at a stage to accept the cereal mash as soon as it is done boiling. This is how I do it: Cereal grain + some malt (whatever fills the pot about 1/4 of the way up) plus filtered water to about 3/4 of a full pot. Put it on the stove, heat, stir, boil, stir, leave it simmering while I go mash-in (yes, a vigorous boil would be better, but I can't be two places at once). While boiling the cereal, my mash water has been heating up to about 165. I mash-in VERY stiff, just enough water to make sure there are no dry pockets; this should leave me in the 120-130 degree f range. Go get my pot of gruel which has now been boiling for about 15-20 minutes, and dump it into the mash. Stir, take a temp reading, then add some more mash water to hit my target temp. Mash as usual from here. That's about it; pretty simple. Don't get wrapped around the axle trying to hit target temps. Each setup has its' own inherent thermal mass characteristics. After one or two trial batches, you'll be able to come close to pegging whatever parameters you set for yourself. But don't sweat it the first time around. In the end, it'll still be beer, and probably a good one! Remember, to wear shoes by the way. Living in San Diego, it's some sort of social foppery to have white feet, so after receiving ridicule from a club member a couple weeks ago, I was brewing in flip-flops in order to work on my foot tan (yes, the same week it was threatening snow in Chicago).... I performed the procedure above and ended up with boiling hot sticky stuff on my left foot; instant bad burn. Good luck, Chad Stevens (of the White Foot tribe) QUAFF San Diego Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2006 07:51:00 -0400 From: "Stevens, Jonathan C" <Jonathan.Stevens at dhs.gov> Subject: Keg priming Y'all, I have come to the conclusion that yeast can scavenge o2 far better than I can purge it. I've been priming my corney kegs with 1/3 cup table sugar, conditioning at room temp for 10 days, then crashing the yeast in the cold box and topping off with tank co2 as needed (which is usually very little). Yes I could probably use a bit more sugar and hit the appropriate number of atmospheres co2, but my primary concern is to scavenge the oxygen, not carbonation. Primed beer just seems to stay fresher longer. Is there general consensus on how long to condition a primed keg? I've been waiting 10 days at 68-70 degrees f. How long does Unibroue condition their kegs (which sit at 82-85 degrees f by the way)? The assumption being, the less time you leave them sitting around, the less chance there is for some funk to start growing. This becomes far more important when conditioning in oak casks, which is what I'll be doing for the first time in a couple of weeks. All data points appreciated, Chad Stevens QUAFF San Diego Return to table of contents
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