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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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Contents:
  Numerical meaning of attenuation figures ("Peter A. Ensminger")
  mash (leavitdg)
  pumpkin (leavitdg)
  pumpkin info ("Tom Klepfer")
  Samichlaus ("Scott D. Braker-Abene")
  First press wort? ("Kevin Gray")
  Re: Yeast for Bottle Conditioning High Gravity Ales (Jeff Renner)
  Sankey kegging... ("Michael Eyre")
  Home brew group.... ("Michael Eyre")
  Golden Promise... ("Michael Eyre")
  Lallemand / Danstar yeast - don't panic! (Signalbox Brewery)


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Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 00:31:10 -0500
From: "Peter A. Ensminger" <ensmingr at twcny.rr.com>
Subject: Numerical meaning of attenuation figures

Christopher asks how to calculate "attenuation" for his homebrew. His 
beer had an OG = 1.050 and FG = 1.010.

According to DeClerck ...
SG(1.050)=(-463.37)+(668.72*SG)-(205.35*SG^2)= 12.4 Pi (Plato-initial)
SG(1.010)=(-463.37)+(668.72*SG)-(205.35*SG^2)= 2.56 Pf (Plato-final)

This gives
1) Real Extract (RE)
RE = (0.1808*Pi) + (0.8192*Pf) = 4.34

2) Apparent Attenuation (AA, most commonly used number for "attenuation")
AA = 1 - (Pf/Pi) = 0.794

3) Real Attenuation (RA, used mostly by beer-geeks)
RA =  1 - (RE/Pi) = 0.650

For details and further info, see: "Beer Data: Alcohol, Calorie, and 
Attenuation Levels of Beer" at http://hbd.org/ensmingr/

Cheers!
Peter A. Ensminger
Syracuse, NY



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Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 06:54:14 -0500
From: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu
Subject: mash

Chad;
  If you heat the appropriate amount of water to 160 or so, then add your grain,
while stirring, you will most likely get a resultant temp in the mid to high
140s, or low 150s, depending upon the temp of the grain.

 Promash helps to calculate this.

 Happy Brewing!

Darrell
Plattsburgh,NY 44 41 58 N Latitude
                   73 27 12 W Longitude

 [544.9 miles, 68.9]Apparent Rennerian





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Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 06:58:45 -0500
From: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu
Subject: pumpkin

Thankyou Steve.

I did bake the pumpkin last year, and think that I will resort to that method
again in a year or so.

I think that if one calls it "Pumpkin Ale" there ought to be at least some
pumpkin in the mash, however little.

I also noticed spices added near the end in some posts.  Does this tend to keep
the flavor of the spices? Without knowing I have added throughout, assuming
that , like hops, there may be different aspects of the spices.  Does anyone
have data/ experience with this?

Happy Brewing!
Darrell





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Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 06:26:39 -0600
From: "Tom Klepfer" <tomklepfer at 78055.com>
Subject: pumpkin info

Regarding the problems of pumpkins not contributing any
worthwhile flavor to ales, you should know that the vast
majority of pumpkins sold in fresh markets are bred and
grown for decorative purposes, not culinary.  For baking,
canning or brewing, you'll need to find or grow varieties
suitable for cooking.  Or use canned pumpkins.

Part of the problem is that "pumpkins" and most "squash" are
the same two species, and squash types are used in the
breeding of many pumpkins.  Hence the vegetal flavors
someone mentioned....

Cheers, 
Tom Klepfer
Medina, TX


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Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 06:50:20 -0800 (PST)
From: "Scott D. Braker-Abene" <skotrat at yahoo.com>
Subject: Samichlaus

Hey Now, 

Does any of youse guys have a tried and true just plain fantastic 
"Samichlaus" recipe? 

Allgrain please. 

Thanks

 -Scott
 
"I can't help it... I love being a fart machine"
 - Heather Braker 

http://www.skotrat.com/skotrat - Skotrats Beer Page
http://www.brewrats.org - BrewRats HomeBrew Club














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Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 09:55:29 -0500
From: "Kevin Gray" <kevin.gray at gmail.com>
Subject: First press wort?

I was at a Japanese restaurant last night and the placemat with all of
the different types of sushi had a Kirin ad at the bottom. This ad
claims that Kirin's flavor comes from "first press wort." The Kirin
website makes the same claim:

"The luxurious single wort (or first press) process yields a unique,
complex flavor. "

I've been brewing for about 7 years, and read a lot about the brewing
process, but I had never heard of first press wort. Is this just
marketing BS (like the claim that the beer gets it's unique flavor
from cold fermentation and extended cellaring, which is true of any
lager, right?) or is there some process I've never heard of?

KevBrews
http://kevbrews.blogspot.com


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Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 10:15:32 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <jsrenner at umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Yeast for Bottle Conditioning High Gravity Ales

Rich Beecher in Chattanooga, TN asked about bottling yeasts.

I don't think I have anything much to add to the answers that were  
posted.  I seldom brew big beers, but the few I've done, probably 9%  
max, carbonated OK with the original yeast.

Of course, you could, if you liked, use Brettanomyces claussenii  
http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/bacteria.html at bottling, which is the  
traditional British way.  (Well, the didn't add cultured Brett - it  
was just around.)  You'd need to let it ferment a bit before bottling  
as it would probably over-carbonate otherwise.  I think it would  
tolerate high alcohol.

Jeff
- ---
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, jsrenner at umich.edu
"One never knows, do one?"  Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943





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Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 11:48:34 -0800
From: "Michael Eyre" <meyre at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Sankey kegging... 

I know this has been beat before, as I've checked the archives just a
minute ago, but here's the thing.

Anyone have any ideas on kegging in the newer and getting more popular
by the minute 5 gallon "log" style kegs? I figure since the last
frenzied posts regarding this back in the 1999 era, there's been a
possible renewed interest in using these kegs. For a few reasons, and to
just be different, I'm planning on going this route. I have never kegged
before in any other kind of keg, but I now have the CO2 tank, regulator,
keg and am awaiting the Sankey tap coupler to begin. I figure I'm going
to clean out the gunk from the keg with a lye soak (how much lye, btw?
I've seen the references in the archive, but nobody mentioned the
amount?), and then use regular sanitizer to clean just before I put the
beer in. I found replacement spear retaining rings on the Sabco site,
but they're not cheap, so I'll be looking into a kegman style snap ring.
Although it appears to be just a simple cir-clip that you can get from
the hardware store, now? I can't see spending 8 bucks on a $0.25 item.
correct me if I'm wrong, please! Anyone doing this already? 

Mike




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Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 11:51:59 -0800
From: "Michael Eyre" <meyre at sbcglobal.net>
Subject:  Home brew group....

I had a posting problem and posted a couple things before that never got
out. I'll repost them here again if you'll bear with me.


- -----Original Message-----

You all get my post regarding wanting to start a H.B. group in my area
last week? 

I can't locate one anywhere close to me and was thinking of starting up
a group. I live near several well populated areas, and I know the
brewers are out there, but there's just no existing group here. I was
looking for pointers on people in an established group that would offer
some suggestions as to a good baseline to follow. Monthly meetings?
Floating meetings? Bi-annual? What sort of events do you find the most
appealing to the majority? Do you have H.B. tastings and how does that
work out with the group? 

In addition, I was in a brew pub in my area here (Cambridge House in
Granby, CT) and they indicated they would LOVE to sponsor a H.B. group
with excellent discounts, as well as possibly being able to supply base
malts at discount as well. they'd enjoy being the home base for our
meetings if we were interested in that. So, before getting all up in
this thing, I was looking for some input. 

Anyone?

Mmike



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Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 11:52:53 -0800
From: "Michael Eyre" <meyre at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Golden Promise...


- -----Original Message-----
 
I came across a 50# sack of  Golden Promise that my shop was blowing out
for real cheap.. so I bought it, couldn't pass it up at that price. My
question is, I'm not that familiar with this malt, though I've heard
it's an old 'distillers malt'. can it be used for beer? Let me rephrase.
what other malt that is more of a 'beer malt' is it similar to so I can
sort this out for recipe work? 

Mike



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Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 20:11:59 +0000
From: Signalbox Brewery <signalbox.brewery at ntlworld.com>
Subject: Lallemand / Danstar yeast - don't panic!

I have received a helpful and prompt response from Keith Lemcke of
Siebel Institute and Lallemend to the effect that there was an error on
the website. Nottingham, Windor (and Fermaid) are now back at

http: //
consumer.lallemand.com/danstar-lalvin/danstar.html

David Edge, Derby, UK



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