HOMEBREW Digest #509 Wed 03 October 1990
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
CO2 in Southern NH and Northeastern MA ("Gary F. Mason - Image Systems 02-Oct-1990 0801")
Thanks for the Help (A1C Karl Wolff)
cider; EDME ("FEINSTEIN")
Storage time for CJOHB special beers (russellp)
yeastie beasties (Dan Miles)
teaching homebrew (ARUTUNIANEB)
Oak Chips (Steve Cohn)
Ale Ails (Jeffery R Blackman)
Cider recipe from digest #508 (Jay Hersh)
Beer Hunter (Brian Capouch)
Beer fridge drilling (Ken Johnson)
Send submissions to homebrew%hpfcmr at hplabs.hp.com
Send requests to homebrew-request%hpfcmr at hplabs.hp.com
[Please do not send me requests for back issues]
Archives are available from netlib at mthvax.cs.miami.edu
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Date: Tue, 2 Oct 90 05:04:09 PDT
From: "Gary F. Mason - Image Systems 02-Oct-1990 0801" <mason at habs11.enet.dec.com>
Subject: CO2 in Southern NH and Northeastern MA
I just had my CO2 tank refilled (10# = $9.10) at Northeast Airgas, Inc.
They have several locations. For the benefit of those in need:
8001 S Willow St (P.O.Box 5276), Manchester, NH (603)625-9757 (800)562-3815
Nashua, NH (603)889-4113
Keene, NH (603)357-1288
Leominster, MA (508)537-1756
Laconia, NH (603)528-1845
Newington, NH (603)436-7223
Hudson, NH (508)562-2243 [MA AC???] (800)221-4140
Orange, MA (508)575-0531
Tanks filled while you wait.
Cheers...Gary
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Date: Tue, 2 Oct 90 08:47:17 CDT
From: A1C Karl Wolff <wolff at aqm.ssc.af.mil>
Subject: Thanks for the Help
I want to thank everyone that sent me information on how to
get started. I was impressed that I received answers so
quickly to my questions. I also found out from a fellow
Montgomerian, that the only place locally is located in
Fort Walton Beach. Thanks again for the assistance.
If anyone else has any pointers that they would like to
pass on to me please do so. I need all the help I can
get.
Karl R. Wolff Jr.
wolff at aqm.ssc.af.mil
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Date: 2 Oct 90 12:55:00 EDT
From: "FEINSTEIN" <crf at pine.circa.ufl.edu>
Subject: cider; EDME
Hi there!
In digest 508, "jwhite" (he didn't sign his posting) gives his hard cider
recipe, using the following ingredients:
5 gal sweet cider
3 lbs brown sugar
3 lbs honey
2 pkg champagne yeast.
With so much honey in this recipe, I would have to say that what you have here
isn't a cider anymore, it's cyser. Cyser is apple melomel (melomel being mead
made in part with fruit juice).
Traditionally, "cider" meant fermented fruit juice, and could be of any fruit.
That "cider" is equated with "apple" is a modern convention.
About EDME dried yeast: I just used some for the first time. It's acted much
faster than any other yeast I've used, Wyeast included. And although
fermentation seems to be slowing down a bit now, my brew is still opaque with
suspended yeast. Is this usual for EDME?
Yours in Carbonation,
Cher
"With one tuckus, you can't dance at two weddings." -- Yiddish proverb
=============================================================================
Cheryl Feinstein INTERNET: CRF at PINE.CIRCA.UFL.EDU
Univ. of Fla. BITNET: CRF at UFPINE
Gainesville, FL
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Date: Tue, 2 Oct 90 12:37:55 CDT
From: russellp at cae.wisc.edu
Subject: Storage time for CJOHB special beers
I want to try some of the special beers in Papazian's book, but I was
wondering if people could give me an idea of how long some of these
should remain in the bottle before drinking. Perhaps two durations are
required here - when the beer gets good and when it gets great. The
recipes I am interested in are:
Rocky Racoon's Crystal Honey Lager
Kumdis Island Spruce Beer
Vagabond Ginger Ale
Cherries In The Snow
Holiday Cheer
Mucho thanks in advance for any help.
I've also heard people saying not to use vanilla in brewing. Is it because
of taste, or are there worse problems?
************> russellp at cae.wisc.edu <******************************* | |
Russ Perry Jr (currently reachable at:) "Feed my brain with your so ||||
5970 Scott St 104 S Randall Ave called standards; who says || /
Omro WI 54963 Madison WI 53715 that I ain't right?"--Metallica /
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Date: Tue, 2 Oct 90 11:30:01 -0700
From: miles at cs.washington.edu (Dan Miles)
Subject: yeastie beasties
> Just started my first attempt at culturing Sierra Nevada pale ale
>yeast. I decanted three bottles and pitched the yeast into 2 cups of
>starter. The starter was 1/4 cup dry malt extract into 2 cups water,
>boiled and cooled to room temperature (75F). Fermentation began after
>about 36 hours and seems to be normal except... there is a layer of
>what appears to be yeast clinging to the sides of the jar at the top
>of the liquid along with the foam. I have never had a starter do this
>before (I've only done starters about 10 times before and the yeast
>has always fallen to the bottom of the jar). The ale was about 6 weeks
>old according to the date code (many thanks to Pete Soper for the
>decoder). There are no off smells or other signs of infection. Where
>should I pitch the starter? Into my wort or out of the window? Thanks
>in advance for your advice.
Not to worry. That always seems to happen with the SN yeast (I've
cultured 6 bottles). It also forms an amazingly dense pancake of
yeast that floats on top in the primary. This is different than the
foamy layer I've gotten with other yeasts. It will eventually sink to
the bottom after the fermentation slows (4-7 days) but only when
disturbed.
Dan Miles
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Date: Tue, 2 Oct 90 13:50 PDT
From: ARUTUNIANEB%WHITMAN.BITNET at CORNELLC.cit.cornell.edu
Subject: teaching homebrew
I'm going to be teaching an informal home-brew class here at Whitman.
Anyone have any ideas where to start?
Thanks,
Ethan
ARUTUNIANEB at WHITMAN.BITNET
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Date: Tue, 2 Oct 90 15:00:21 PDT
From: delaware.desktalk.com!smc at desktalk.desktalk.com (Steve Cohn)
Subject: Oak Chips
This is my first time using oak chips in my brew, so please be patient.
I've heard that the chips sink to the bottom and some remain floating.
Should I worry about straining these chips out (well not WORRY but. . .)?
Should I siphon the wort to another container for bottling? I have it in
my secondary fermenter/priming tank now, as I had heard that the chips
could get stuck in the carboy blowoff valve. Can anybody out there give
us some advice on what to do with the chips?
Thanks,
Steve
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Date: Tue, 2 Oct 90 14:57:46 PDT
From: Jeffery R Blackman <blackman at hpihouz.cup.hp.com>
Subject: Ale Ails
Full-Name: Jeffery R Blackman
It was bound to happen sonner or later, or so it seems.
I am still a relatively inexperienced HB'er, having been at it for a little
over 1.5 years with about 12 batches under my belt. Normally I brew 10 gallon
batches at a time, but this last one, I decided to brew 2 5 gallon
batches simultaneously.
No problem. Theses were the smoothest batches of all. I brewed
the Dithyrambic Brown Ale and Toad Spit Stout from Papazian's TCJoHB.
I tend to brew using malt extract with added grains. I haven't brewed
an all grain batch yet (somewhat intimidated by mashing on an electric
range).
Well, this is the first time I've tried using a liquid yeast
culture. I really got into watching the package begin to swell
all the time telling myself "Don't worry, it won't explode".
Neither packet did! The primaries were off and fermenting and
all seemed quite content. When primary fermentation finished
both batches were racked into secondaries (I use glass 5 gallon
carboys for both primary and secondary fermentations). And then
it happened.
There was no action in either carboy for 2 days. From the airlock,
there was a pressure built up in the Brown Ale, but none in the
Stout. Hmm, I wondered. Then I noticed the white splotches growing
on the top of the brew. "Ah, yes, I understand," I thought. "An
infection".
I can only think of two errors in my brew process. The first may be
a contaminated yeast culture. I doubt it. I remember back about a month or
so about contaminated yeast cultures. I used Brewer's Choice, both
1028 London style, date coded July 90 and September 90,
The second may be storage of the carboys between batches. After brewing,
I clean the carboy and then fill it with a fairly strong bleach/water
solution (stronger than my usual sanitization solution). At brewing time,
I just rinse out the carboy (assuming that the bleach solution has kept
the carboy sanitized during storage). Is this an incorrect assumption?
I am pretty meticulous in sanitary methods. With each batch, I seem to
become more conscious and try even harder.
I guess it was bound to happen sonner or later.
-Jeff
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Date: 02 Oct 90 18:28:16 EDT
From: Jay Hersh <75140.350 at compuserve.com>
Subject: Cider recipe from digest #508
WOW!!!
5 gallons of apple juice, 3 lbs honey and 3lbs brown sugar with a champagne
yeast. Having a good feel for how strong a cider is made from just 5 gallons of
cider and champagne yeast I'd say watch out. This recipe sounds like a real
killer. Is it even legal to make anything that strong at home???
- Jay H
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Date: Tue, 2 Oct 90 18:59:39 -0500 (CDT)
From: Brian Capouch <brianc at zeta.saintjoe.EDU>
Subject: Beer Hunter
Does anyone out there happen to have the 800 number for ordering the
"Beer Hunter" video?
I took it down twice; lost it both times.
Thanks.
Brian Capouch
Saint Joseph's College
brianc at saintjoe.edu
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Date: Tue, 2 Oct 90 18:09:09 PDT
From: kjohnson at argon.berkeley.edu (Ken Johnson)
Subject: Beer fridge drilling
I just bought a used fridge for a kegging system. What I want to know from
the brewers who have kegs in fridge is where do you drill the holes. Should
I drill in the door and have to deal with moving beer/CO2 lines, or should
I drill in the side and have an obstructed tap? Also, I'd like to get my
hands on one of those Hunter thermostats. Could someone please send me the
address and phone # of a supplier? Last, is $36 an o.k. price for a used
5 gal. Cornelius keg?
ken
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #509, 10/03/90
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