HOMEBREW Digest #5091 Sun 12 November 2006

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  Hot Side Aeration (question) (leavitdg)
  re: Refrigerator vs. Freezer (Nate & Brenda Wahl)
  RE:  Is Promash - The Sausalito Brewing Co. still around? ("William C. Tobler")
  PalmOS Tools ("Alexandre Enkerli")
  Re: Refrigerator vs. Freezer (Dylan Tack)
  re: Promash settings for Oregon Fruit Products puree (Bob Tower)
  Correcting SG measurment for dissolved CO2 ("Kyle Jones")
  Re:  SN Celebration Ale ("William C. Tobler")
  Sherry Pyment from "FPack?" ("Alexandre Enkerli")
  Changing brew system from propane to natural gas ("Jon Judson")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 06:28:28 -0500 From: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu Subject: Hot Side Aeration (question) At what point is hot side aeration not an issue, ie, if one vigorously chills with an immersion chiller, once the wort is under 100F, or so, is HSA an issue? Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 07:22:26 -0500 From: Nate & Brenda Wahl <cruiser570 at verizon.net> Subject: re: Refrigerator vs. Freezer Here's something that worked out really well, it might be worth consideration. When we remodeled the kitchen, a new fridge was warranted (oooh, Stainless!), but the old side-by-side was still in good shape, so into the garage it went! All of the drawer and shelf bits were removed on the fridge side. I removed the inside door assembly with all the bins and such, leaving the door as basically a thin metal box filled flush with foam. As the rim of the inside assembly holds the gasket in place, I cut off everything from it but the outer flange edge that holds the gasket, and a 1.5" lip all around, pointing in. This was then screwed back on to hold the gasket, and two pieces of 3/4" blue foam board insulation were form fit to nestle inside the lip, held in place with four plastic screws into the door foam. Duct taped all around for a vapor seal. This made for lots more room inside, like almost a 6" gain, and more door insulation. Enough room, in fact, that a small shelf added above the floor allowed enough depth back to the sloped area over the compressor to hold four cornies, two by two. Then a single shelf, very reinforced, just above the cornies was built, and there was room for four more on that! Eight cornies, yay! Plus a little more room left for other stuff and even a few stacked six packs up top. Or two cornies and two Better Bottles (those things are great, by the way, I'll never do glass again!) Plus a bonus spare freezer for hops, grain, ice and such; it got them out of the house, which was muchly appreciated. On the down side, its tight in there, with only an inch above the lower cornies and maybe two above the top ones, and getting to the four in the back to add CO2 is tough. The beer lines/picnics stay attached. I've made some gas fitting to Schreader valve 'extensions' for them which are much easier to reach, and am considering running six or eight of them through the wall or maybe just to a common location inside somehow later. I want to be able to control the pressure in each keg separately, so no manifold. Lifting things up to the top shelf is also a pain (literally, unfortunately), but I'm thinking that's what cheap rope hoists are for. More to follow. Eventually there will be a six faucet setup with tray for the door, or maybe on the side wall if I can figure out where in the heck the refrigerant lines run (but I think its a single coil with fan on the back, and not in the side walls; anybody know?) Its in an area of the garage that doesn't go below freezing, and against an inside wall, so that should help the longevity some, but who knows. Anyway, it was a nice project, didn't cost much of anything and helped 'justify' the cost of the new fridge, and I was really surprised how much room there was once that useless stuff on the door was all removed. Everything Bob Tower said about using a fridge proved very true. This fridge is left using just the installed controls at the upper range of its settings, a bit cold, but I have somewhere else to fermenting lagers. Cheers, Nate Wahl Oak Harbor, Ohio 64.3, 148.5 Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 07:25:25 -0600 From: "William C. Tobler" <wtobler at houston.rr.com> Subject: RE: Is Promash - The Sausalito Brewing Co. still around? Hey Charlie. Promash is still around. Go to http://www.promash.com/ You will see six boxes on the main page. In the Help/Support box, the last choice is "Registered Users". Click on registered users and you will get all the fixes for your problems. Hope that helps. Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, Tx Brewing great beer in South Texas Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 12:17:10 -0500 From: "Alexandre Enkerli" <enkerli at gmail.com> Subject: PalmOS Tools Didn't look at BrewPartner yet (my Clie is broken) but the BrewLogPro recipe manager and calculator (5$ shareware), like the ProMash freeware PDA calculators have been valuable tools for me, in the past. Just wish there were a way to transfer recipes between PalmOS and OSX/XP/Linux. Speaking of desktop recipe managers, everybody knows about the recently released BeerTools Pro, right? - -- Alexandre, in Montreal http://enkerli.wordpress.com/ Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 11:47:35 -0600 From: Dylan Tack <dylan at io.com> Subject: Re: Refrigerator vs. Freezer > Date: Thu, 09 Nov 2006 22:01:11 +0000 > From: "Janie Curry" <houndandcalico at hotmail.com> > > I'm trying to decide whether it's best to purchase an upright > refrigerator > or an upright freezer for a lager cellar and kegerator for my garage > brewery. I've had both and prefer the upright. My first kegerator was an old chest freezer that I got for free. I built a thermostat for it with a DS1621 sensor and a PIC microcontroller. It eventually died shortly after I moved to a new apartment. I don't know if it died of old age (it was at least 30 years old), or because of the move. I don't understand how an external thermostat could shorten the life of a freezer (unless perhaps the hysteresis was way too small), but I can see the rust issue. I replaced it with a used upright fridge (top freezer) that I found for $70 via a newspaper ad. I've had the new one for about a year, and I find it better in every way: - -- no risk of hitting refrigerant lines when you drill faucet shanks through the door - -- same capacity (4 cornys), plus two bottom drawers (for yeast), door shelves (holds about 24 bottles), a freezer (which I use for hops), and an icemaker! - -- takes less floor space - -- easier to clean (frost-free, and gunk doesn't pool in the bottom like it did in the chest freezer) - -- no external thermostat needed (although I still use my homebrewed controller) -Dylan Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 11:29:03 -0800 From: Bob Tower <roberttower at sbcglobal.net> Subject: re: Promash settings for Oregon Fruit Products puree Robert (from an undisclosed location, but looking at his e-mail domain I'm going out on a ledge and guessing Canada!) wonders about gravity contributions from Oregon Fruit Products purees. I added two cans of their raspberry puree to a six U.S. gallon batch of framboise in secondary and it boosted the specific gravity by 10 points. That would mean that each can contributes roughly 30 points (1.030) of specific gravity when added to one U.S. gallon. I haven't used any of the other kinds of fruit that they offer but in my experience with fruit, the SG doesn't vary too terribly much (with the conspicuous exception of grapes) from fruit to fruit. At the very least, you could use the above figure to get in the vicinity of your target SG when planning a recipe. Then when you brew, carefully take a gravity reading before and after adding the puree. If there is variance then you will know for future batches and can update your settings in ProMash. I've also used the natural fruit essences, the best being the ones that are simply natural fruit extract with the sugars removed. These primarily give you aroma contribution and color (when adding to extremely pale base beers) and little if any flavor. They are not substitutes for actual fruit, that is if you are looking to get fruit flavors into your beer. In the past, when I've set out to make a really fruity beer I've used fruit AND the extract as well for a one- two knockout punch of fruit (sometimes necessary depending on the character of the base beer). Sometimes fermentation can scrub out a lot of the fruit aroma which is why the extracts are a handy way to add it back. One way around this is to add your fruit in secondary, as the fermentation that will start will generally be much milder than primary and will not scrub out nearly as much aroma as if you had added the fruit in primary. There are trade-offs depending on when and where you add the fruit. I prefer to add it in secondary because you don't lose so much of the aroma and you lock in a real nice fresh fruit flavor, albeit a mild fruit flavor. If you add the fruit at the end of your boil (in the kettle) the heat will intensify the fruit flavor, but it will more of a cooked fruit flavor, similar to jam or pie. You also will lose a lot of the aroma do to the fruit being present during primary fermentation. It is similar to adding hops, the time and place you add them has an impact on the character and attributes you will bring out. I personally am not fond of the cooked flavor so I do all my fruit additions in secondary and use extract to boost aroma if necessary. The extract is added at kegging or bottling time. You are right, the extract doesn't have any fermentables so if you are bottle conditioning then you will need to add a priming agent. Bob Tower / Los Angeles, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 22:49:17 -0600 From: "Kyle Jones" <kjones1 at ufl.edu> Subject: Correcting SG measurment for dissolved CO2 My M.O. when bottling/kegging my beer is to take a S.G. measurement when the beer goes into the keg or bottling bucket WITHOUT taking a sample out in a hydrometer jar. I've been trying to find information on this, but to no avail--is there a way to correct my measurements for the dissolved CO2 in the finished beer? I can reasonably assume that the beer is saturated with CO2 if it hasn't been sitting for too long. I also know when I calculate the S.G. change from the addition of a priming solution, I can just add the fractional contributions of the beer and priming solution. But is there a way to calculate with any sort of precision the effect on S.G. readings of dissolved CO2? Kyle Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2006 05:59:30 -0600 From: "William C. Tobler" <wtobler at houston.rr.com> Subject: Re: SN Celebration Ale Steve asks, "Is Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale (aka HOPS DAMMIT!) bottle conditioned?" According to their web site, all their bottled beers are bottle conditioned. You need to go to their web site and take the Brewery Tour, and that info is in the packaging section. Here is a shortcut. http://www.sierranevada.com/tour/packaging.html I haven't tried one this year yet. I better hurry and get some.. Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, TX (1129.2, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian Brewing Great Beer in South Texas Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2006 21:23:09 -0500 From: "Alexandre Enkerli" <enkerli at gmail.com> Subject: Sherry Pyment from "FPack?" Got a couple of spare sherry "FPacks," from Winexpert. They seem to contain grape juice concentrate along with "selected special ingredients sourced around the world which contribute to natural flavour and aroma." http://www.winexpert.com/blocks/dsp_fpack_popup.cfm These are supposed to be added to wine as a "suessreserve" at stabilization, after fermentation, and might contain anti-fermentation agents. But I'm thinking about using one of these packs in a mead, especially if I can source inexpensive honey. Any advice on a "sherry pyment" made with a "flavour pack" from a wine kit maker? After the mid-September discussion of Schramm's method, I'd probably use the incremental nutrient/energizer method for the mead. I might also make a much weaker mead than is usually preferred. Cheers! - -- Alexandre (aka Ale-X) in Montreal http://enkerli.wordpress.com/ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2006 22:05:41 -0500 From: "Jon Judson" <jjudson at hotmail.com> Subject: Changing brew system from propane to natural gas How do I calculate how many BTUs are required to heat x number gallons of water from y temperature to z temperature in w amount of time using natural gas as the fuel? Similarly, if I have a BTU value, how can I calculate how long it would take to raise x number gallons of water from y temperature to z temperature? Thanks ahead. Return to table of contents
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