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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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Contents:
  Hot Side Aeration (question) (leavitdg)
  re: Refrigerator vs. Freezer (Nate & Brenda Wahl)
  RE:  Is Promash - The Sausalito Brewing Co. still around? ("William C. Tobler")
  PalmOS Tools ("Alexandre Enkerli")
  Re: Refrigerator vs. Freezer (Dylan Tack)
  re: Promash settings for Oregon Fruit Products puree (Bob Tower)
  Correcting SG measurment for dissolved CO2 ("Kyle Jones")
  Re:  SN Celebration Ale ("William C. Tobler")
  Sherry Pyment from "FPack?" ("Alexandre Enkerli")
  Changing brew system from propane to natural gas ("Jon Judson")


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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 06:28:28 -0500
From: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu
Subject: Hot Side Aeration (question)

At what point is hot side aeration not an issue, ie, if one vigorously chills
with an immersion chiller, once the wort is under 100F, or so, is HSA an issue?

Darrell



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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 07:22:26 -0500
From: Nate & Brenda Wahl <cruiser570 at verizon.net>
Subject: re: Refrigerator vs. Freezer

Here's something that worked out really well, it might be worth 
consideration.

When we remodeled the kitchen, a new fridge was warranted (oooh, 
Stainless!), but the old side-by-side was still in good shape, so into 
the garage it went!  All of the drawer and shelf bits were removed on 
the fridge side.  I removed the inside door assembly with all the bins 
and such, leaving the door as basically a thin metal box filled flush 
with foam.  As the rim of the inside assembly holds the gasket in place, 
I cut off everything from it but the outer flange edge that holds the 
gasket, and a 1.5" lip all around, pointing in.  This was then screwed 
back on to hold the gasket, and two pieces of 3/4" blue foam board 
insulation were form fit to nestle inside the lip, held in place with 
four plastic screws into the door foam.  Duct taped all around for a 
vapor seal.  This made for lots more room inside, like almost a 6" gain, 
and more door insulation.

Enough room, in fact, that a small shelf added above the floor allowed 
enough depth back to the sloped area over the compressor to hold four 
cornies, two by two.  Then a single shelf, very reinforced, just above 
the cornies was built, and there was room for four more on that!  Eight 
cornies, yay!  Plus a little more room left for other stuff and even a 
few stacked six packs up top.  Or two cornies and two Better Bottles 
(those things are great, by the way, I'll never do glass again!)  Plus a 
bonus spare freezer for hops, grain, ice and such; it got them out of 
the house, which was muchly appreciated.

On the down side, its tight in there, with only an inch above the lower 
cornies and maybe two above the top ones, and getting to the four in the 
back to add CO2 is tough.  The beer lines/picnics stay attached.  I've 
made some gas fitting to Schreader valve 'extensions' for them which are 
much easier to reach, and am considering running six or eight of them 
through the wall or maybe just to a common location inside somehow 
later.  I want to be able to control the pressure in each keg 
separately, so no manifold.

Lifting things up to the top shelf is also a pain (literally, 
unfortunately), but I'm thinking that's what cheap rope hoists are for.  
More to follow.

Eventually there will be a six faucet setup with tray for the door, or 
maybe on the side wall if I can figure out where in the heck the 
refrigerant lines run (but I think its a single coil with fan on the 
back, and not in the side walls; anybody know?)  Its in an area of the 
garage that doesn't go below freezing, and against an inside wall, so 
that should help the longevity some, but who knows.

Anyway, it was a nice project, didn't cost much of anything and helped 
'justify' the cost of the new fridge, and I was really surprised how 
much room there was once that useless stuff on the door was all 
removed.  Everything Bob Tower said about using a fridge proved very 
true.  This fridge is left using just the installed controls at the 
upper range of its settings, a bit cold, but I have somewhere else to 
fermenting lagers.

Cheers,
Nate Wahl
Oak Harbor, Ohio
64.3, 148.5


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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 07:25:25 -0600
From: "William C. Tobler" <wtobler at houston.rr.com>
Subject: RE:  Is Promash - The Sausalito Brewing Co. still around?

Hey Charlie.  Promash is still around.  Go to   http://www.promash.com/

You will see six boxes on the main page.  In the Help/Support  box,  
the last choice is "Registered Users".  Click on registered users and  
you will get all the fixes for your problems.  Hope that helps.


Bill Tobler
Lake Jackson, Tx
Brewing great beer in South Texas



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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 12:17:10 -0500
From: "Alexandre Enkerli" <enkerli at gmail.com>
Subject: PalmOS Tools

Didn't look at BrewPartner yet (my Clie is broken) but the BrewLogPro
recipe manager and calculator (5$ shareware), like the ProMash
freeware PDA calculators have been valuable tools for me, in the past.
Just wish there were a way to transfer recipes between PalmOS and
OSX/XP/Linux. Speaking of desktop recipe managers, everybody knows
about the recently released BeerTools Pro, right?

- -- 
Alexandre, in Montreal
http://enkerli.wordpress.com/


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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 11:47:35 -0600
From: Dylan Tack <dylan at io.com>
Subject: Re: Refrigerator vs. Freezer

> Date: Thu, 09 Nov 2006 22:01:11 +0000
> From: "Janie Curry" <houndandcalico at hotmail.com>
>
> I'm trying to decide whether it's best to purchase an upright  
> refrigerator
> or an upright freezer for a lager cellar and kegerator for my garage
> brewery.

I've had both and prefer the upright.  My first kegerator was an old  
chest freezer that I got for free.  I built a thermostat for it with  
a DS1621 sensor and a PIC microcontroller.   It eventually died  
shortly after I moved to a new apartment.  I don't know if it died of  
old age (it was at least 30 years old), or because of the move.  I  
don't understand how an external thermostat could shorten the life of  
a freezer (unless perhaps the hysteresis was way too small), but I  
can see the rust issue.

I replaced it with a used upright fridge (top freezer) that I found  
for $70 via a newspaper ad.  I've had the new one for about a year,  
and I find it better in every way:

- -- no risk of hitting refrigerant lines when you drill faucet shanks  
through the door
- -- same capacity (4 cornys), plus two bottom drawers (for yeast),  
door shelves (holds about 24 bottles), a freezer (which I use for  
hops), and an icemaker!
- -- takes less floor space
- -- easier to clean (frost-free, and gunk doesn't pool in the bottom
like it did in the chest freezer)
- -- no external thermostat needed (although I still use my homebrewed
controller)

 -Dylan


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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 11:29:03 -0800
From: Bob Tower <roberttower at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: re: Promash settings for Oregon Fruit Products puree

Robert (from an undisclosed location, but looking at his e-mail  
domain I'm going out on a ledge and guessing Canada!) wonders about  
gravity contributions from Oregon Fruit Products purees. I added two  
cans of their raspberry puree to a six U.S. gallon batch of framboise  
in secondary and it boosted the specific gravity by 10 points. That  
would mean that each can contributes roughly 30 points (1.030) of  
specific gravity when added to one U.S. gallon. I haven't used any of  
the other kinds of fruit that they offer but in my experience with  
fruit, the SG doesn't vary too terribly much (with the conspicuous  
exception of grapes) from fruit to fruit. At the very least, you  
could use the above figure to get in the vicinity of your target SG  
when planning a recipe. Then when you brew, carefully take a gravity  
reading before and after adding the puree. If there is variance then  
you will know for future batches and can update your settings in  
ProMash.

I've also used the natural fruit essences, the best being the ones  
that are simply natural fruit extract with the sugars removed. These  
primarily give you aroma contribution and color (when adding to  
extremely pale base beers) and little if any flavor. They are not  
substitutes for actual fruit, that is if you are looking to get fruit  
flavors into your beer. In the past, when I've set out to make a  
really fruity beer I've used fruit AND the extract as well for a one- 
two knockout punch of fruit (sometimes necessary depending on the  
character of the base beer). Sometimes fermentation can scrub out a  
lot of the fruit aroma which is why the extracts are a handy way to  
add it back. One way around this is to add your fruit in secondary,  
as the fermentation that will start will generally be much milder  
than primary and will not scrub out nearly as much aroma as if you  
had added the fruit in primary. There are trade-offs depending on  
when and where you add the fruit. I prefer to add it in secondary  
because you don't lose so much of the aroma and you lock in a real  
nice fresh fruit flavor, albeit a mild fruit flavor. If you add the  
fruit at the end of your boil (in the kettle) the heat will intensify  
the fruit flavor, but it will more of a cooked fruit flavor, similar  
to jam or pie. You also will lose a lot of the aroma do to the fruit  
being present during primary fermentation. It is similar to adding  
hops, the time and place you add them has an impact on the character  
and attributes you will bring out. I personally am not fond of the  
cooked flavor so I do all my fruit additions in secondary and use  
extract to boost aroma if necessary. The extract is added at kegging  
or bottling time. You are right, the extract doesn't have any  
fermentables so if you are bottle conditioning then you will need to  
add a priming agent.

Bob Tower / Los Angeles, CA


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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 22:49:17 -0600
From: "Kyle Jones" <kjones1 at ufl.edu>
Subject: Correcting SG measurment for dissolved CO2

My M.O. when bottling/kegging my beer is to take a S.G. measurement when the
beer goes into the keg or bottling bucket WITHOUT taking a sample out in a
hydrometer jar.  I've been trying to find information on this, but to no
avail--is there a way to correct my measurements for the dissolved CO2 in
the finished beer?  I can reasonably assume that the beer is saturated with
CO2 if it hasn't been sitting for too long.  I also know when I calculate
the S.G. change from the addition of a priming solution, I can just add the
fractional contributions of the beer and priming solution.  But is there a
way to calculate with any sort of precision the effect on S.G. readings of
dissolved CO2?

Kyle
 




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Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2006 05:59:30 -0600
From: "William C. Tobler" <wtobler at houston.rr.com>
Subject: Re:  SN Celebration Ale

Steve asks, "Is Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale (aka HOPS DAMMIT!)  
bottle conditioned?"

According to their web site, all their bottled beers are bottle  
conditioned.  You need to go to their web site and take the Brewery  
Tour, and that info is in the packaging section.  Here is a  
shortcut.         http://www.sierranevada.com/tour/packaging.html

I haven't tried one this year yet.  I better hurry and get some..


Bill Tobler
Lake Jackson, TX
(1129.2, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian
Brewing Great Beer in South Texas



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Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2006 21:23:09 -0500
From: "Alexandre Enkerli" <enkerli at gmail.com>
Subject: Sherry Pyment from "FPack?"

Got a couple of spare sherry "FPacks," from Winexpert. They seem to
contain grape juice concentrate along with "selected special
ingredients sourced around the world which contribute to natural
flavour and aroma."
http://www.winexpert.com/blocks/dsp_fpack_popup.cfm

These are supposed to be added to wine as a "suessreserve" at
stabilization, after fermentation, and might contain anti-fermentation
agents.
But I'm thinking about using one of these packs in a mead, especially
if I can source inexpensive honey.
Any advice on a "sherry pyment" made with a "flavour pack" from a wine
kit maker?

After the mid-September discussion of Schramm's method, I'd probably
use the incremental nutrient/energizer method for the mead. I might
also make a much weaker mead than is usually preferred.

Cheers!

- -- 
Alexandre (aka Ale-X) in Montreal
http://enkerli.wordpress.com/


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Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2006 22:05:41 -0500
From: "Jon Judson" <jjudson at hotmail.com>
Subject: Changing brew system from propane to natural gas

How do I calculate how many BTUs are required to heat x number gallons of 
water from y temperature to z temperature in w amount of time using natural 
gas as the fuel? Similarly, if I have a BTU value, how can I calculate how 
long it would take to raise x number gallons of water from y temperature to 
z temperature? Thanks ahead.



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