HOMEBREW Digest #5123 Tue 09 January 2007

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  stockholm: a beer-friendly socialist paradise (Raj B Apte)
  Re-hopping ("Spencer W. Thomas")
  Hop extracts ("Peed, John")
  Honey priming ("Greg Brewer")
  Honey For Priming (harry.backenass)
  Re: Honey for Priming ("Eric Wescott")
  Low efficiency with Wheat... why! (Michael Eyre)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2007 20:06:06 -0800 (PST) From: Raj B Apte <raj_apte at yahoo.com> Subject: stockholm: a beer-friendly socialist paradise Steve asked about Stockholm. I was there for a few weeks last fall. The state-run liquor shops are worth a visit. Grab a catalog while there: its a very impressive list and I'm told that anything on the list can be had within 2-3 days at any of the liquor stores. Local micro-brews are excellent. Don't forget to have punsch a few times and bring home a bottle of Batavian Arrack (not the anise flavoured spirit of the Mediterranean but distilled cane and rice spirit of Indonesia). You could bring back a bottle of Arrack for me, too .... The normal, light beer at the grocery stores is OK, even the canned stuff. Because of the alcohol tax, the price difference between top-quality and rubbish is small, and the guys who compose the state liquor-list (catalog) have done a nice job. raj Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2007 09:48:54 -0500 From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <hbd at spencerwthomas.com> Subject: Re-hopping Dave King suggests boiling hops in water to add bitterness to an underhopped beer. My experience is that this also extracts a nasty "grassy" flavor from the hops. Maybe the pH of my water is higher than that of his, at least I'm assuming it was high pH that caused it. The pH of wort is down around 5, while the pH of my tap water is around 8. As usual, YMMV. =Spencer in Ann Arbor Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2007 07:12:50 -0800 From: "Peed, John" <jpeed at elotouch.com> Subject: Hop extracts I have tried hop extract, hop essence and hop oil. The manufacturers' instructions for using these products are very detailed and exacting: they're supposed to be infused at a very low rate into the path of flowing beer (during transfer), and to do it correctly would require an incredibly accurate mechanically controlled syringe. I once worked on a mobile medical infusion "cart" for injecting radiopharmaceuticals - it was a nifty device, very accurate (obviously), but it couldn't touch the incredibly small dose rates called for by some of these hop extracts. "Tetra", one of the latest and greatest, gives 5 IBUs for each drop infused into 5 gallons of beer. And, of course, that one drop is supposed to be infused slowly into the continuing stream of 5 gallons, not just plunked into the whole lot (as we homebrewers would have to do it). Think about that ... ONE DROP in 5 gallons, 5 drops for the entire bittering component of an average beer. Anyway, I found that the essence and oils produced really poor aroma and flavor results - artificial and not at all pleasant. I also thought the bittering extract added a deep, nasty, indescribable flavor component, and I didn't think the bitterness was well-focused. But A) those are just my opinions and B) I was just adding drops to the batch rather than infusing as directed. Also, I didn't age the resulting beer to see if it cleaned up any. And BTW, Jeff Renner says he used the bittering extract once and he absolutely loved the results - very clean, bright and focused, as I recall. So just think of it as two different data points. I recently tried an extract again and found the same results, except that the beer did settle down nicely with some ageing. John Peed Oak Ridge, TN Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2007 09:30:51 -0600 From: "Greg Brewer" <gbrewer1 at gmail.com> Subject: Honey priming Andrew asked about priming his honey porter with honey. I tried it with a honey wheat ale I brewed last year and had excellent results. The final beer had a really nice honey flavor. The amount of honey needed to prime five gallons of beer depends on how much carbonation you want in the finished beer, and how many volumes of residual CO2 are in solution before you bottle (varies inversely with temperature). It also depends on how much sugar there is in your honey, depending on what type of honey you use. Assuming you desire about two volumes of CO2 (typical) using domestic clover honey and are bottling near room temperature, you will need around 3.0 to 3.5 ounces (by weight) of honey. Not sure what that works out to be by volume, but a full cup sounds like too much. Cheers, Greg in Chicago Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2007 8:07:48 -0800 From: <harry.backenass at charter.net> Subject: Honey For Priming 1/2 cup is the recommendation - I've tried 1 cup and the resulting beer was overcarbonated to the point of impending bottle bombs! H.B. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2007 11:27:47 -0500 From: "Eric Wescott" <eric.wescott at gmail.com> Subject: Re: Honey for Priming Reply to Andrew Calder You're right on track! 1/2 cup of honey will prime 5G brew nicely. I've used this to prime sparkling meads, and it worked well. - --Eric Wescott Stratford, CT Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2007 20:50:45 -0800 From: Michael Eyre <meyre at sbcglobal.net> Subject: Low efficiency with Wheat... why! Hey all! Question: Why are all my wheat beers coming out so low in O.G. compared to my all barley beers? Pound for pound, when I use wheat in my recipes, they come out low. For instance, if I were to use 100% barley in a Pale ale, say, 18lbs of it, my O.G. would be 1.050, for sake of argument. If I used 50/50 barley and *malted* wheat, my O.G. comes out towards the 1.040 side. Every time, consistently. Supposedly, wheat has a higher percentage of potential fermentables in it, so what am I doing wrong? Mike Return to table of contents
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